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Enclosed Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your retailer.
Accessories
The following items should also be enclosed in the box.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-400/PC-420.
● The screw of the presser foot holder is
available through your authorized dealer
(Part code: XA4813-051).
● The organized accessory tray is
available,through your authorized
dealer.(Part code: XC4489-051)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
20.
11.
12.
21.
13.
22.
14.
23.
15.
24.
16.*
25.
17.
26.
18.
27.
19.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
* 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
Part Code
Part Code
No.
Part Name
No.
Part Name
U.S.A.
Others
U.S.A.
Others
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Walking foot
XC2691-051
XC3098-051
X53840-351
X59370-051
XC3021-051
17 Twin needle
18 Cleaning brush
19 Eyelet punch
20 Screwdriver (large)
21 Screwdriver (small)
22 Spool cap (large)
23 Spool cap (medium)(2)
24 Spool cap (small)
25 Extra spool pin
26 Spool net
X59296-051
X59476-051
135793-001
X55467-051
X55468-051
130012-054
X55260-153
130013-154
XC4654-051
X56409-051
130489-001
SA140 XC2214-002
SA129 XC1948-002
SA160 XA8839-002
Quilting foot
10 Stitch guide foot “P”
XA5523-050
11 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161 XC1970-002
27 Foot controller
28 Grid sheet set
XC1154-051
12 Non stick foot
13 Open toe foot
14 Seam ripper
15 Bobbin (4)
SA114 XC1949-002
SA147 XC1964-002
X54243-001
SA156 XA5539-151
X58358-051
SA527 XC4549-051
XA6941-052
XE1139-001
XC4546-151,XC4589-051
XC2360-152
29 Knee lifter
30 Operation manual
31 Quick reference guide
32 Hard case
16 Needle set
Cover A
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
2
3
1
4
D
5
6
C
B
7
8
A
0
9
1 Thread guide plate / 2 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when
threading the upper thread.
9 Knee lifter mounting slot
Plug the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.
0 Operation buttons
3 Spool pin
Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine
Place the spool on the spool pin.
4 Thread guide for bobbin winding
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.
A Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing
cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.
5 Upper cover
Open the upper cover to place the spool of thread on
B Thread cutter
the spool pin.
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
6 Bobbin winder
C Needle threader lever
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
7 Operation panel
D Thread tension dial
Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
8 Sewing speed controller
Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
Cover B
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———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
Right-side/rear view
Needle and presser foot
section
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
5
4
8
8
5
7
7
6
6
1 Buttonhole lever
1 Presser foot dial
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of
pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
2 Thread guide discs
2 Handle
Pass the thread through the thread guide discs when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
3 Needle bar thread hook
3 Balance wheel
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
hook.
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower
the needle to sew one stitch.
4 Needle plate
4 Air vent
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
5 Bobbin cover/shuttle
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the shuttle.
5 Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.
6 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
6 Foot controller jack
7 Presser foot
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
7 Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
8 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
8 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
Memo
● Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you
are learning to use your machine.
Cover C
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
2
3
5
1
4
6
1 Start/stop button
CAUTION
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending
on how the sewing machine is being operated.
● Do not press the thread cutter button after
the threads have already been cut, otherwise
the needle may break, the threads may
become tangled or damage to the machine
may occur.
Green:
When the machine is ready to start
sewing or while it is sewing
When the machine is not ready to start
sewing
Red:
Note
● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.
● When cutting thread thicker than #30,
nylon thread or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 53).
Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is moved
to the right for winding the bobbin
thread onto the bobbin
2 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
3 Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
4 Thread cutter button
Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
5 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
6 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
Cover D
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.
1
4
5
2
6
7
3
8
9
0
1 LCD (liquid crystal display)
7 OK key
Press this key to apply the selected item.
8 Back key
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys 2
through 9, described below, to display various items
and select the settings. For details, refer to
Press this key to return to the previous screen.
9 Settings key
2 Sewing machine help key
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, or other
settings such as the operation beep.
Press this key to display operation information. Simple
descriptions on threading the upper thread, installing
the bobbin, winding the bobbin and replacing the
presser foot can be displayed.
0 Stitch keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of 12 of the most
often used stitches. For details, refer to “Selecting
3 Stitch selection key
Press this key to select the desired type of stitch.
4 + key
Press this key to add a pattern when sewing
combinations of characters or decorative stitches.
5 C key
Press this key to remove an added pattern when sewing
combinations of characters or decorative stitches.
6 Arrow keys
Use these keys to move in the indicated direction when
selecting an item displayed on the screen. In addition,
can be pressed to select a lower setting and
can be pressed to select a higher setting.
Cover E
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Optional Accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1.
2.
3.
1. Side cutter
Part code: SA177,XC3879-002
2. Quilting guide
Part code: SA132, XC2215-002
3. Wide table
Part code: SA537,XC4541-051
Memo
● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.
1
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6), and then study this
manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.
Sewing Machine Features
1
4
5
2
6
3
1 Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 24)
2 Automatic thread-cutting
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching. (page 58)
3 One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 22)
4 Simple bobbin-winding
5 Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.
Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. (page 68)
6 Knee lifter
Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.
2
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Contents
Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................Cover A
Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B
Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C
Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D
Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................2
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................2
Contents ..............................................................................................................................3
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6
GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................10
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10
Understanding the LCD Screens ........................................................................................12
Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 13
Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................14
Changing the settings ...................................................................................................................................... 14
Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 16
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................ 16
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...........................................................................................18
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 18
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 22
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................24
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 27
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 28
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................33
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 33
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 34
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................37
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 37
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 37
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................ 39
Using the walking foot .................................................................................................................................... 40
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces ....................................................................................42
3
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................45
Sewing ...............................................................................................................................46
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 47
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 48
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 53
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................54
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................55
Useful Functions ................................................................................................................57
Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 58
Saving stitch settings ....................................................................................................................................... 60
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 62
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 63
UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................67
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................68
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 68
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................70
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 70
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 72
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................74
Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 74
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 74
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................76
Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................78
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 79
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 82
Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................85
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 86
Zipper/piping Insertion .....................................................................................................89
Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................ 90
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................91
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 91
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................93
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 93
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 95
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 95
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 96
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Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................................................100
Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................104
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................105
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 106
Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 107
Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 109
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 110
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .............................................................113
Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 113
Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 116
Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 118
Changing the pattern length .......................................................................................................................... 118
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 119
Realigning the pattern ................................................................................................................................... 121
Designing a Pattern .........................................................................................................123
Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 124
Design exampled .......................................................................................................................................... 126
Stitch Settings ..................................................................................................................128
Utility stitches ............................................................................................................................................... 128
Maintenance ....................................................................................................................135
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 135
Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 135
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................137
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 141
Cancelling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 143
Removing the upper cover ............................................................................................................................ 143
Index ...............................................................................................................................144
5
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Important Safety Instructions
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position when making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
6
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:
Blue
Neutral
Live
Brown
As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or colored black or blue.
The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or colored red or brown.
7
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-
up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
•
•
•
•
•
Operation is completed
Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
A power failure occurs during use
Maintaining the machine
Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or
store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com
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1
GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off .................................................................................10
Changing the Machine Settings ..............................................................................14
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...............................................................................18
Upper Threading ....................................................................................................24
Replacing the Needle .............................................................................................33
Replacing the Presser Foot .....................................................................................37
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces .........................................................................42
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
10
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Turning on the machine
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
1
off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
1
Press the left side of the main power switch on
the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
household electrical outlet.
2
2
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
electrical outlet.
1
3
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
1 Power supply jack
Press the right side of the main power switch
on the right side of the machine (set it to “I”).
Unplug the power supply cord from the
power supply jack.
3
4
Note
● When the sewing machine is turned off, all
stitch settings are cancelled.
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on
when the machine is turned on.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.
Turning the Machine On/Off 11
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Understanding the LCD Screens
The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected
stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.
3
1
4
5
2
1 Presser foot that should be used
2 Single or twin needle
3 Selected stitch
4 Stitch length (mm)
5 Stitch width (mm)
Memo
● For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
12
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Checking machine operating
procedures
Simple descriptions on replacing the presser foot,
threading the upper thread, winding the bobbin and
installing the bobbin can be displayed in the LCD.
When you are finished with the help screen,
press (OK key).
6
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Note
● For details on each topic, refer to the
corresponding page in this Operation
Manual.
X The LCD comes on.
Press
operation panel.
(sewing machine help key) in the
2
3
X The sewing machine help screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
the image illustrating desired topic is selected.
1
2
4
3
1 Replacing the presser foot
2 Threading the upper thread
3 Winding the bobbin
4 Installing the bobbin
Press
(OK key).
4
5
X The first screen describing the procedure for
the selected topic appears.
To display the next screen, press
return to the previous screen, press
. To
.
†
Example: Upper threading
Understanding the LCD Screens 13
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
Press
(OK key).
6
Changing the settings
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
X The LCD comes on.
Press
panel.
(settings key) in the operation
2
3
X The settings screen appears.
Press and (arrow keys) until
the stitch or machine attribute that you wish
to set is selected.
,
,
Press
(OK key).
4
5
X A screen containing settings for the selected
attribute appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
the desired setting is selected.
X The setting is changed.
14
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■ List of stitch or machine attribute
The stitch or machine attribute that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.
Attribute
Icon
Details
Reference
Automatic
reverse/
reinforcement
stitching
Automatic
thread-
cutting
Specifies automatic thread-cutting.
Check
Allows combined patterns to be checked.
Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis.
pattern
Left/right
mirror
imaging
Pattern
length
Adjusts the length of satin stitches.
Pattern size
Sets the size of patterns to be large or small.
Repeated/
single sewing
Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or
repeatedly.
Stitching
density
Specifies the sewing density of the stitching.
Allows adjusted pattern widths and lengths to be
saved.
Save settings
Needle
position
Specifies where the needle is positioned when the
sewing machine is stopped.
Twin needle
sewing
Specifies the twin needle.
Stitch width
control
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the
sewing speed controller.
Allows the language used in the screens to be
changed.
Language
Buzzer
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with
each operation.
LCD
brightness
Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.
Vertical
pattern
Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern.
adjustment
Changing the Machine Settings 15
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Changing the needle stop
position
Adjusting the brightness of
the LCD
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing
is stopped. However, the machine can be set to
instead leave the needle raised when sewing is
stopped.
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
Press
(settings key) in the operation
1
panel, and then press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
(settings key) in the operation
1
panel, and then press
(arrow keys) until
,
,
and
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
2
3
X The screen for changing the brightness of
the LCD appears.
Press
(OK key).
To make the LCD brighter, press
make the LCD darker, press
(–). To
2
3
X The screen for changing the needle stop
(+).
position appears.
Press
to select
, press
.
To return to
.
X The brightness of the LCD is changed.
Press
(OK key).
4
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
X The machine is now set to stop with the
needle in the raised position.
Press
(OK key).
4
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
16
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Changing the screen
language
The language used in the screens that are displayed
can be changed to one of the many available. When
the sewing machine is purchased, the screens appear
in English.
Press
(settings key) in the operation
1
panel, and then press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
2
3
X The screen for changing the language of the
screens appears.
Press
selected.
or
until the desired language is
The language can be changed to one of the
available: English, German, French, Italian,
Dutch, Spanish, Danish, Norwegian, Swedish,
Finnish, Portuguese, Russian, Korean, Japanese
or others.
X The language of the screens is changed.
Press
(OK key).
4
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the Machine Settings 17
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing
machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Older model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
1
1 Bobbin winder
Memo
● The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
18
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Turn on the sewing machine.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.
1
2
3
6
Lift open the upper cover.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.
7
1
2
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1 Notch
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
4
2
1
3
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
5
1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool
1
• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.
1
2
2
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
3
1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding,
CAUTION
0
and then wind it counterclockwise between
the discs.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.
1
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
1
or the needle may break.
While holding the spool with your right hand,
8
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.
1 Thread guide for bobbin winding
While using your left hand to hold the end of
the thread that wraps around the thread guide
for bobbin winding, use your right hand to
wind the free end of the thread clockwise
around the bobbin four or five times.
a
1
1 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
from the right.
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
9
b
1
1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
1
1 Thread guide plate
20
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Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
wound around the bobbin.
CAUTION
f
● Be sure to cut the thread as described on
the previous page. If the bobbin is wound
without cutting the thread using the
cutter built into the slit in the bobbin
winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may
bend or break when the bobbin thread
starts to run out.
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
g
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(so that the speed will be fast).
c
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
h
1
1 Sewing speed controller
Press
(start/stop button) once.
d
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.
i
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin thread that has been
correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
1
1 Start/stop button
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
X The bobbin stops spinning when it is full.
Press
(start/stop button) once.
e
X The sewing machine stops.
Memo
● When the sewing machine is started or the
balance wheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin cover.
2
Installing the bobbin
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and
hold the end of the thread with your left.
3
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin thread that has been
correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the
thread unrolls to the left.
4
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
older models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
Actual size
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
hand, and then guide the thread as shown
with your left hand.
5
This model
Older model
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the shuttle is indicated by
marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread
the machine as indicated.
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
then pull the thread out toward the front.
1
6
1
2
1
1 Bobbin cover
2 Latch
1 Cutter
X The bobbin cover opens.
X The cutter cuts the thread.
22
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CAUTION
● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may
break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
7
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
1
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
next page).
Memo
● You can begin sewing without pulling up
the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull
up the thread according to the procedure in
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
Threading the upper thread
CAUTION
Turn on the sewing machine.
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled or the needle may
bend or break.
1
Memo
Raise the presser foot lever.
● The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
2
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
24
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• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
Place the spool for the upper thread onto the
spool pin.
6
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unrolls from the
bottom front of the spool.
Press
(needle position button) once
3
or twice to raise the needle.
1
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unrolls correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
1 Needle position button
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check
that the mark on the balance wheel is facing
up as shown in the illustration below. If the
balance wheel is not in this position, be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
right side of the spool touches the right end of
the spool pin.
7
1
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small). Use the spool cap with
a diameter that is slightly larger than the
diameter of the spool. The medium-sized
spool cap is already on the spool pin when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1 Mark on balance wheel
Lift open the upper cover.
2
1
4
3
1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (medium)
3 Spool
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
spool pin.
5
• When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small spool cap with some space
between the cap and the spool.
1
1
2
2
3
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
1 Spool
2 Gap
3 Spool cap (small)
Upper Threading 25
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
While using your right hand to hold the thread
passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass
CAUTION
0
the thread through the guides in the order (up
→ left → down → up → down) shown.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
1
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the needle may break.
1 Shutter
The following diagram shows the shutter
position when the presser foot is lowered.
Since the shutter is closed when the presser
foot is lowered, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot so
that the shutter is open in order to thread the
machine.
While holding the spool with your right hand,
pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
to the front.
8
1
1
1 Shutter
Pass the thread through the thread hook at the
base of the needle bar.
1 Thread guide cover
a
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
from the right.
9
1
1
1 Thread hook
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (on the next page).
1 Thread guide plate
26
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Lower the presser foot lever.
3
Threading the needle
The needle threader can be used with needle size
75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the
needle, refer to “Needle types and their uses”
(page 33).
With your left hand, hold the end of the
thread passed through the needle bar thread
1
1
1 Presser foot lever
hook, and then pass the thread through the
thread guide discs from the front.
X The presser foot is lowered.
1
Lower the needle threader lever until it clicks.
4
1
1 Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
2
needle.
Release the needle threader lever.
3
5
6
1 Thread guide discs
2 Pass to the back.
3 Pass through the slit.
Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side
2
of the machine.
1
5
1 Thread cutter
Upper Threading 27
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread
7
through the presser foot, and then pull out
about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear
of the machine.
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
1
1 5 cm (2 inch)
X The lower threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to begin
sewing.
CAUTION
Note
● If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press the needle position button to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.
● If the twin needle is installed, the needle
threader cannot be used. For details, refer to
“Using the twin needle” (at the right).
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-051). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
1
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
eye.
2
• For details, refer to steps
1
through
a
of
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Manually thread the left needle with the
upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
Thread the upper thread in the same way that
the upper thread for the left side was
threaded.
3
7
from the front.
1
1 Thread guide cover
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin
needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin
needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.
• For details, refer to step
8
through
0
of
Without passing the thread through the
needle bar thread hook, manually thread the
right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin
winder shaft.
Insert the extra spool pin so that it is
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1
8
4
1 Bobbin winder shaft
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
Swing down the spool pin so that it is horizontal.
5
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
9
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on
the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.
6
The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.
Turn on the sewing machine.
0
1
2
X The LCD comes on.
1 Spool cap
2 Spool
Upper Threading 29
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
Select a stitch.
a
b
f
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
Press
(OK key).
c
d
X The screen for selecting the twin needle
appears.
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
g
Press
to select
, press
.
To return to
.
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
X The twin needle can now be used.
Press (OK key).
e
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen.
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction,
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
press
(needle position button) to
raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
30
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Pulling up the bobbin thread
Using thread that winds off
quickly
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
When using thread that winds off quickly, such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the
enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the
spool of thread onto the spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the
spool.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.
1
• Refer to steps
1
through
5
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
2
1
2
3
While lightly holding the upper thread with
3
4
your left hand, press
(needle position
button) twice to raise the needle.
1
1 Spool net
2 Spool
3 Spool cap
4 Spool pin
1 Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
out the end of the bobbin thread.
4
Upper Threading 31
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin
thread under the presser foot toward the rear
of the machine.
5
Reattach the bobbin cover.
6
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
1
32
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Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Thread
Fabric Type/Application
Broadcloth
Size of Needle
Type
Size
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
60–80
Medium
Taffeta
weight
75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
50–80
60–80
Lawn
Georgette
Poral
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thin
fabrics
65/9–75/11
50–80
30–50
Denim
Corduroy
Tweed
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thick
fabrics
90/14–100/16
50
Jersey
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Stretch
fabrics
Thread for knits
50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
65/9–90/14
50–80
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30
90/14–100/16
Replacing the Needle 33
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Checking the needle
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
● A 75/11 needle is already installed when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1
2
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and
needle combinations are shown in the
table on the previous page. If the
1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking
combination of the fabric, thread and
needle is not correct, particularly when
sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the
needle may bend or break. In addition,
the stitching may be uneven or puckered
or there may be skipped stitches.
■ Correct needle
1
1 Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1
1 Flat surface
34
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Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.
4
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
1
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
2
1 Screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
1
1 Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
5
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
6
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
Install the twin needle in the same way.
1
1 Presser foot lever
Replacing the Needle 35
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
36
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Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the needles.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
CAUTION
Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever.
3
1
1
1 Presser foot lever
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
X The presser foot is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Replacing the Presser Foot 37
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder.
4
Note
● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch
again.
1
2
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Zigzag foot “J”
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
Button fitting foot “M”
Monogramming foot “N”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Side cutter “S”
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
5
● For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
1
3
2
1 Presser foot holder
2 Notch
3 Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
6
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
7
38
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Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot
Removing the presser foot
holder
The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies
to the fabric can be adjusted.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
Lower the presser foot lever.
1
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
1
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
1
2
1 Presser foot lever
Turn the presser foot dial at the back of the
sewing machine.
2
The scale on the dial indicates the range from
1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right
(smaller number) to decrease the pressure.
Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to
decrease the pressure.
1
1 Screwdriver
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
1
Weak
Strong
3
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial
to 3 (standard).
2
3
1
1 Screwdriver
Replacing the Presser Foot 39
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Using the walking foot
Note
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
■ Attaching the walking foot
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
1
foot holder” (on the previous page).
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw.
2
1
2
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
3
with the screwdriver.
1
1 Presser foot holder screw
40
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Raise the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
3
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
balance wheel toward you and check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.
4
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
■ Removing the walking foot
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
5
1
Memo
● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Replacing the Presser Foot 41
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Sewing large pieces of fabric
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces
of fabric easier.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
1
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
table.
1
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
2
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
2
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
install the flat bed attachment back in its
3
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
original position.
arm sewing is possible.
Install the wide table.
Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
3
place.
Note
● The optional wide table is available through
your brother retailer.
42
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Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to
adjust their height.
● The knee lifter can be stored attached to the
4
bottom of the wide table.
CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
When you are finished using the wide table,
remove it.
5
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
6
Memo
● With the legs folded up, the wide table can
be stored attached to the hard case.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 43
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
44
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2
SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................54
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...................................................................55
Useful Functions ....................................................................................................57
Useful Sewing Tips .................................................................................................62
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
46
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General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Turn on the sewing machine.
Turn on the
machine.
1
2
3
↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
Select the stitch.
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
Attach the presser
foot.
↓
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
4
Position the fabric. the fabric are aligned correctly.
↓
Start sewing.
5
6
Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).
↓
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut automati-
cally.
Cut the thread.
Sewing 47
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
Lower the presser foot lever.
5
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
Press
(needle position button) once or
2
1
twice to raise the needle.
1 Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
1
1 Needle position button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
3
4
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
Memo
● To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the balance
wheel toward you with your right hand to
lower the needle to the starting point of the
stitching.
48
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When the end of the stitching is reached,
press (start/stop button) once.
3
4
Starting to sew
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the operation buttons or the foot
controller.
down (in the fabric).
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button
(start/stop button).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
2
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure
1
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
1
1 Sewing speed controller
Press
(start/stop button) once.
2
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
the side of the sewing machine.
2
1
1
1 Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
1 Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-400/PC-420.
• If you continue to hold the start/stop button
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
Sewing 49
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turn on the sewing machine.
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
3
7
Memo
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
4
● When sewing is stopped, the needle
remains lowered (in the fabric). The
machine can be set so that the needle will
stay up when sewing is stopped. For details
on setting the machine so that the needle
stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to
(page 16).
1
CAUTION
1 Sewing speed controller
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot
controller, otherwise a fire or an electric
shock may occur.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
5
Slower
Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
completely release the foot controller.
6
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
50
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After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
3
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
1
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
1
presser foot lever.
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is held pressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
Press
(start/stop button) or press down
After sewing back to the beginning of the
stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button.
2
4
5
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(start/stop button), or press down
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
1
1 Start/stop button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
When the end of the stitching is reached,
X The machine starts sewing.
6
press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is depressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
Sewing 51
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
7
release
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
button).
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
X The machine stops sewing.
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches
on top of each other.
Press
(start/stop button), or press down
8
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
2
1
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
sewing machine stops.
Release the start/stop button or foot controller.
9
1 Reverse stitching
2 Reinforcement stitching
1
Memo
3
1
2
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
5
6
4
2
1 Beginning of stitching
2 End of stitching
52
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Memo
Cutting the thread
● The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For
details on setting the machine so that the
threads are cut automatically, refer to
(page 58).
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The
threads can be cut in either of two ways.
■ Using the thread cutter button
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
1
(thread cutter button) once.
■ Using the manual thread cutter
When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon
or metallic threads, or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut
the threads.
1
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
sewing machine is stopped, press
1
(needle position button) once to raise the
needle.
1 Thread cutter button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
1
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
1
1 Presser foot lever
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
CAUTION
● Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
1
1 Presser foot lever
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
1
Note
3
● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.
1 Thread cutter
Sewing 53
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are
equal.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
If the thread and needle combination is correct for
the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle
types and their uses” on page 33), the thread tension
will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate
setting. However, if the preset thread tension does
not give the desired result or if you are sewing with
special thread or on special fabric, use the thread
tension dial under the upper cover to adjust the
tension of the upper thread.
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1
2
3
1
4
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
2
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
3
4
the upper thread.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
1
2
5
3
4
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
54
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within
Memo
Adjusting the stitch width
● To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
● If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle
position. Increasing the width moves the
needle to the right; reducing the width
moves the needle to the left.
The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
● The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to
X The LCD comes on.
● The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
Select a stitch.
2
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
To make the stitch width narrower, press
(–). To make the stitch width wider, press
3
(+).
X The stitch width is changed.
–
+
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
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55
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Adjusting the stitch length
● To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
● The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility
stitch is selected. For details, refer to
The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow
keys.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
2
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
To make the stitch length shorter, press
To make the stitch length longer, press
(–).
(+).
3
X The stitch length is changed.
–
+
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
value is erased.
56
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Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Press
To return to
to select
, press
.
6
.
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning
and end of the stitching.
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches
are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For
X The machine is now set to automatically
sew reverse/reinforcement stitches.
Press
(OK key).
Turn on the sewing machine.
7
1
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen.
X The LCD comes on.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
Select a stitch.
2
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
8
then press
(start/stop button) once.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
3
4
X The settings screen appears.
1
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
1 Start/stop button
is selected.
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
Press
(OK key).
5
X The screen for specifying automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching appears.
Useful Functions 57
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
9
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
Automatically cutting the
thread
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
“programmed thread-cutting”.
If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This
setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing
buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
2
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
3
4
Memo
X The settings screen appears.
● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the
end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
5
X The screen for specifying automatic thread-
cutting appears.
58
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Press
To return to
to select
, press
.
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts
the thread.
6
.
X The machine is now set for programmed
thread-cutting.
Press
(OK key).
7
The thread is cut here.
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
appears in the lower-left corner of the
screen.
Memo
● Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn and the thread will not automatically
be cut if the start/stop button is pressed at
the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the
reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the
end of the stitching.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
programmed thread-cutting setting is
cancelled.
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
8
then press
(start/stop button) once.
1
1 Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
9
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
Useful Functions 59
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
• The next time that the stitch is selected, the
saved settings are the first ones that are
Saving stitch settings
displayed.
Adjusted stitch width and length settings can be
• To clear the saved settings and return the
saved so that they will be specified each time the
stitch width and length to their default
stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved
for each utility stitch.
settings, press
(OK key).
so that
, and then press
Select the stitch, and then adjust the stitch
width and length.
1
To adjust the stitch width, press
(–) and
(–) and
(+). To adjust the stitch length, press
(+).
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
X The stitch width and length are changed.
Press
panel.
(settings key) in the operation
2
3
X The settings screen appears.
Press and (arrow keys) until
,
,
is selected.
Press
X The screen for saving the settings appears.
Check the is selected, and then press
(OK key).
(OK key).
4
5
X The settings for the stitch width and length
are saved.
60
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■ Using the knee lifter
Hands-free raising and lifting
of the presser foot
Stop the sewing machine.
• Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing
1
machine is operating.
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the
presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free
to handle the fabric.
With your knee, press the knee lifter to the
right.
2
Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.
■ Installing the knee lifter
Turn off the sewing machine.
1
X The presser foot is raised.
Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front
of the sewing machine in the lower-right
corner.
Release the knee lifter.
3
2
X The presser foot is lowered.
Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the
notches in the jack, and then insert the knee
lifter as far as possible.
CAUTION
● While sewing, keep your knee away from
the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed
while the sewing machine is operating,
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
Note
● If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its
jack, it may fall out while the sewing
machine is operating.
Useful Functions 61
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
Sewing curves
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing
direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
1
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine
stopped sewing, press
(needle position
button) to lower the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
2
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
3
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CAUTION
Sewing thick fabrics
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
1
1 Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
1
lever.
Press the black button on the left side of the
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
2
presser foot.
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
3
feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
Useful Sewing Tips 63
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing thin fabrics
Sewing leathers or vinyl
fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser
foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the
presser foot to the non stick foot.
1
1
1 Leather
1 Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing an even seam
allowance
Sewing stretch fabrics
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
1
2
1 Basting
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric
aligned with a desired position of markings on the
stitch guide foot.
1
2
3
1 Seam
2 Stitch guide foot
3 Markings
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■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
5
4
3
1
2
6
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
3 Centimeters
4 Inches
5 Needle plate
6 16 mm (5/8 inch)
Useful Sewing Tips 65
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
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3
UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Blind Hem Stitching ...............................................................................................76
Zipper Insertion .....................................................................................................85
Zipper/piping Insertion ..........................................................................................89
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Stitch types
Selecting stitching
A total of 8 groups of stitch types (utility stitches,
decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross-stitches,
decorative satin stitches and 3 types of character
stitches) are available.
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch from those shown in the LCD. Twelve of the
most often used utility stitches can quickly be
selected with the stitch keys.
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch (left needle position) is selected.
■ Utility stitches
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
1
There are 67 utility stitches, including straight
stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole
stitches.
Determine which presser foot should be used
with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
2
■ Decorative stitches
There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts,
leaves and flowers.
■ Satin stitches
There are 16 satin stitches.
Attach the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
■ Cross-stitches
3
There are 5 types of cross-stitches.
■ Decorative satin stitches
Turn on the sewing machine.
There are 10 decorative satin stitches.
4
■ Character stitch—Gothic font
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
■ Character stitch—Script font
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the Script font.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
■ Character stitch—Outline style
There are 55 characters, including letters,
symbols and numbers, in the outline style.
Press
(stitch selection key) in the
5
operation panel.
To select a stitch using the stitch keys, press the
key of the desired stitch.
Continue with step
0
.
X The screen containing the various types of
stitches appears.
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Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
6
the type of stitch that you wish to use is
selected.
Note
● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch
again.
Press
(OK key).
Memo
7
● For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
X The screen containing the various stitches in
the selected stitch type appears.
■ Understanding the screen
1
2
1 Selected stitch type
2 Number of stitches in the selected stitch type
• To select a different stitch type, press
(back key).
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
8
the stitch that you wish to use is selected.
Press
Press
to return to the previous screen.
to display the next screen.
Press
(OK key).
9
0
X The stitch is selected.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, refer to the following pages.
Selecting Stitching 69
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
2.0
Manual
11
12
13
Preventing fraying in medium 3.5
2.5–5.0
1.0–4.0
weight and thin fabrics
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
G
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and fabrics that fray
easily
5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
–
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
1
4
G
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
2
3
1 Needle drop point
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
1 Guide
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Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzagstitch
(center
7
8
Preventing fraying (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
needle
(1/8)
(1/16) (0–3/16)
position)
Zigzagstitch
(rightneedle
position)
Preventing fraying (right
baseline/reinforcement
stitching)
3.5
2.5–5.0
1.4
0.3–4.0
–
–
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
9
2-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and stretch fabrics
J
10
14
15
16
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
–
–
–
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 0.5–4.0
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–3/16)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
1 Needle drop point
2
3
Memo
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
1
1 Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches 71
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be
used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
2.5
Manual
63
64
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
3.5
3.5–5.0
1.4
0.0–4.0
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thin and
mediumweight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
65
Overcasting
stitch
3.5
3.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
S
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
66
67
Preventing fraying in thick
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
fabrics while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.
4
1
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
1
2
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
5
Raise the presser foot lever.
3
2
1
1 Notch in presser foot holder
2 Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
72
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Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
side cutter is securely attached.
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
6
7
0
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
1
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
sewing.
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
a
8
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in
9
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1
1
1 2 cm (1/16 inch)
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
● After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
● The optional side cutter is available through
your brother retailer.
Overcasting Stitches 73
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
6
1
Basting
stitch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
–
Temporarily securing
–
–
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left
baseline/reverse stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Straight
stitch (left
needle
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reinforcement stitching)
2
3
4
position)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
J
Straight
stitch
(center
needle
position)
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
2.5
0.2–5.0
–
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Triple
stretch
stitch
Reinforcing seams and sewing 0.0
stretch fabrics (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Basting
Basic stitching
Sew basting with a stitch length of 5 mm (3/16 inch).
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
6
Select stitch
.
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
2
3
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
1
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
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Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
■ Changing the needle position
5
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle position)
and the straight stitch (center needle position).
1
2
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
6
1 Straight stitch (left needle position)
2 Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
1
0.0
2.0
5.5
7.0
3
4
5
6
2
1 Stitch width
2 Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
Basic Stitching 75
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
17
18
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
3← – 3→
R
R
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
Blind hem stitching on stretch 0.0
fabrics (0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
1
3
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.
R
4
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
1
3
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
4
5
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Desired edge of hem
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
then position the fabric with the wrong side
2
R
facing up.
2
3
1
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Guide
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting
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Adjust the stitch width until the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
6
The needle is too far to the right.
Press
(of the arrow keys) to increase the
stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold of the hem.
R
1
1 Needle drop point
1
2
1
+
–
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
1 Stitch width
7
8
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
Remove the basting stitching.
The needle is too far to the left.
Press
(of the arrow keys) to decrease the
stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold of the hem.
2
1
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
Memo
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
Blind Hem Stitching 77
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Buttonhole Stitching
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and
one-step buttonholes.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Horizontal buttonholes on
thin and mediumweight
fabrics
42
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
–
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
Horizontal buttonholes on
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
–
–
areas that are subject to strain (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Horizontal buttonholes on
thick fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Buttonholes with bar tacks on 5.0
both ends for stabilized fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
–
–
–
–
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16)
Buttonhole
stitch
A
6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
Bound buttonholes
5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for thick
or plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for
mediumweight and thick
fabrics
50
51
55
7.0
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
–
–
–
(1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Horizontal buttonhole for
thick or plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing
stitch
3.5
2.5–4.5
Button sewing
–
–
M
(1/8) (3/32–3/16)
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Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
1
1 Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
and length of the buttonhole.
1
1
1
2
5
3
1 Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
4
2
A
1 Button guide plate
2 Presser foot scale
3 Pin
4 Marks on buttonhole foot
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Buttonhole Stitching 79
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
1
2
1
3
1 Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
1
1 Presser foot scale
6
2 Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
1
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
2
1 10 mm (3/8 inch)
2 15 mm (9/16 inch)
1
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
3
4
5
2
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
7
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
A
2
1 Mark on fabric
2 Red marks on buttonhole foot
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
8
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Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
■ Changing the density of the stitching
9
0
Adjust the stitch length.
–
+
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
1
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), increase the density of the
stitching.
■ Changing the stitch width
1 Pin
Adjust the stitch width.
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin
and open the buttonhole.
–
+
a
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
1
Memo
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
1 Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
1
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
1
1 Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
Buttonhole Stitching 81
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
46
47
Select stitch
or
.
3
4
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
1
machine on the base, to
(to the right as
seen from the front of the machine).
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
5
6
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
1
2
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
7
8
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
1 Drop feed lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
2 Back side
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
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Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
CAUTION
3
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Start sewing.
6
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.
1
1 Button
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
• Do not press the thread cutter button.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
7
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
55
Select stitch
.
4
5
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
• Leave automatic thread-cutting set to
.
When you are finished attaching the button,
8
Turn the balance wheel toward you to check
that the needle correctly goes into the two
holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
slide the drop feed lever to
(to the left as
seen from the front of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
1
1 Back side
Buttonhole Stitching 83
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1
1
1 Shank lever
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
2
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching at
the wrong side of the fabric.
Cut off any excess thread.
3
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Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch(center
needle
I
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
pintucks
3
2.5
0.2–5.0
–
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
position)
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
3
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
1
2
3
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
and then baste the zipper in place.
4
1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening
2
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
1
1
3
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stiching
3 Zipper
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
2
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
1
5
1
3
2
I
4
2
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Zipper Insertion 85
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
3
Select stitch
.
6
Inserting a side zipper
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper for side openings and back
openings.
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
1
2
3
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 End of zipper opening
Topstitch around the zipper.
7
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
1
3
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
stitches up to the zipper opening.
2
1
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
4
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
2
1
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
3
2
4 End of zipper opening
4
CAUTION
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
3
Remove the basting stitching.
8
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
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Press the seam allowance so that the right side
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
CAUTION
4
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
1
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
8
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge
of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
5
2
1
1 Zipper teeth
2 Basting stitching
CAUTION
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
6
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
9
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
I
2
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
3
Select stitch
.
7
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Zipper Insertion 87
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and
then baste the other side of the zipper to the
fabric.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
then raise the presser foot lever.
0
c
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,
and then continue sewing.
d
1
1 Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
of zipper foot “I”.
a
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
6
, change it to the left pin.
1
I
2
1 Pin on the left side
2 Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
b
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the
side of the presser foot.
3
2
4
1
5
1 Right side of fabric
2 End of zipper opening
3 Reverse stitches
4 Beginning of stitching
5 Basting stitching
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Zipper/piping Insertion
A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch (left
needle
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
piping
1
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
position)
There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a
piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Slide the presser foot over either the left or
right feed dog.
5
Inserting a centered zipper
Refer to step
1
–
4
1
2
Remove the presser foot and presser foot
adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Left sewing position
Right sewing position
Change the needle position so that the needle
does not touch the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”
6
Note
● Use a screw driver to securely tighten the
screw that holds the presser foot. If the
screw is loose, the needle may break and
cause injures.
1
1 Needle drop point
1
Select stitch
.
3
4
CAUTION
Loosen the positioning screw on the back of
the presser foot.
● After adjusting the needle position,
slowly turn the balance wheel toward
you and check the needle does not touch
the presser-foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
1
1 Positioning screw
Zipper/piping Insertion 89
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Securely tighten the positioning screw with a
screwdriver.
7
Inserting a piping
Place the piping between two fabrics inside
out, as shown below.
1
1
2
1 Positioning screw
3
Topstitch around the zipper.
8
1 Fabric
2 Piping
3 Fabric
1
3
Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable
zipper/piping foot on the previous page.
2
3
2
Sew along the piping.
4
After sewing, turn them over.
4
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
9
90
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Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
5
9
Stretch
stitch
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Stretch fabrics
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
2-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
–
–
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching elastic
J
10
28
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
Attaching elastic to stretch
fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
1
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
5
Select stitch
.
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
1
2
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
1 Elastic tape
2 Pin
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
3
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
4
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
92
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7
Attaching appliqués (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(1/16) (0–3/16)
60
19
61
Appliqué quilting, free-motion 3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
–
quilting, satin stitching
(1/8)
(1/16) (0–3/16)
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.5 1.6–4.0
Attaching appliqués
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
–
–
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the presser foot)
57
58
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
–
J
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
22
23
24
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
–
–
–
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5 1.0–4.0
Joining
stitch
Patchwork stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Mock hand
quilting
stitch
59
62
Straight stitch quilting that
looks hand quilting
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
–
–
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
7.0
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Stippling
(1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Place a pattern made of thick paper on the
back of the appliqué, and then fold over the
seam allowance using an iron.
2
Appliqué stitching
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm
(1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1
1
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
1 Seam allowance
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then
begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué,
making sure that the needle drops just outside
of the appliqué.
3
6
1
1 Basting stitching
Attach the open toe foot.
4
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
5
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Piecing
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
1
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans over both pieces.
2
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
57
58
Select stitch
or
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
57
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
.
1
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
58
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
.
1
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Quilting
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting
guide.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
1
Attach the walking foot.
• For details, refer to “Using the walking foot”
2
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
3
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly stretch the fabric while
4
sewing.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
96
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■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric
can be moved freely in any direction.
The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
1
holder.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
ꢀ Walking foot
1
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
2
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
ꢀ Presser foot holder
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
3
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1
2
3
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
2
guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
1 Pin on quilting foot
2 Presser foot holder screw
3 Needle clamp screw
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
Note
● The optional quilting guide is available
through your brother retailer.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear
of the machine on the base, to (to the
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
lever to (to the left as seen from the
4
7
right as seen from the front of the machine).
front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
1
1
1 Back side
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned
at the left.
2
1 Feed dog position switch
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
2 Back side
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
5
6
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
1
1 Pattern
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Press
(OK key).
Satin stitching
7
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the
stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is
set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the
sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly
and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed
is adjusted with the foot controller.
60
Select stitch
.
8
9
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Connect the foot controller.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
While sewing, slide the sewing speed
controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the
width narrower. Slide the controller to the right
to make the width wider.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
J
Narrower
Wider
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Turn on the sewing machine, and then press
3
(settings key) in the operation panel.
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
4
is selected.
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot
controller.
When you are finished sewing, set the stitch
width control setting back to OFF.
0
Press
(OK key).
5
6
X The screen for specifying that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller appears.
Memo
● Although the stitching result differs
depending on the type of fabric being sewn
and the thickness of the thread being used,
for best results, adjust the stitch length to
between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and
1/32 inch).
Press
to select
, press
.
To return to
.
X The machine is now set so that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch
Key
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Triple
stretch
stitch
4
Reinforcing the seams of
sleeves and inseams
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Reinforcing the ends of
openings, such as the corners
of pockets
54
Bar tack
stitch
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
–
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
52
53
Darning mediumweight
fabrics
7.0
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
A
–
–
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Darning
stitch
7.0
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Darning thick fabrics
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Triple stretch stitching
Bar tack stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
4
Select stitch
.
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
1
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
2
3
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of bar tack
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inch) can be sewn.
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Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
2
3
4
1
54
Select stitch
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
2
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
6
1
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
7
8
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
1
1 Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
5
1
1 Buttonhole lever
Reinforcement Stitching 101
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Darning
Fabric that has been torn can be darned.
Darning is sewn as shown below.
1
1 Reinforcement stitching
1
Determine the desired length of the darning.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm
(1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned,
and then lower the presser foot lever.
1
4
1
2
1
1 Tear
2 2 mm (1/16 inch)
2
3
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
darning will not be sewn with the correct
size.
4
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of darning
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
4 7 mm (1/4 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
3
1
52
53
Select stitch
or
.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
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Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
1
5
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
6
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,
and then remove the fabric.
7
8
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
Reinforcement Stitching 103
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4,
15/64 and 3/16 inch).
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Eyelet stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0 (1/4,
15/64 or
3/16)
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0 (1/4,
15/64 or
3/16)
56
Sewing eyelets, for example,
on belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
N
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
Start sewing.
1
5
6
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
center of the eyelet.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
56
Select stitch
.
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch
length to select the desired eyelet size.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
6 mm
(15/64 inch)
7 mm
(1/4 inch)
5 mm
(3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch
Memo
● If thin thread is used, the stitching may be
coarse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice,
one on top of the other.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
4
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Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
26
27
22
23
24
20
25
26
27
21
33
34
35
36
37
38
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Fagoting
stitch
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/25–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Joining
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5 1.0–4.0
Decorative bridging stitches
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
J
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Shell tuck
stitch
Shell tuck stitching on collars
and curves
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
2.5 1.0–4.0
Smocking
stitch
Smocking fabrics to add
texture and elasticity
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Scallop
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Satin scallop stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0
(1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching,
etc.
6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on
thin, mediumweight and plain
weave fabrics
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0
N
Decorative
stitch
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming, ribbon
threading, heirloom stitching,
etc.
39
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
40
41
6.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
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105
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
29
30
31
32
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
(3/16)
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
Decorative stitching
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0 0.2–4.0
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
5
6
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
1
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
2
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
3
1
2
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
2 Basting stitching
3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
7
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
3
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
26
27
Select stitch
or
.
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
106
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Scallop stitching
Smocking
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
21
Select stitch
.
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
2
3
2
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
3
1
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
Trim along the stitches.
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
4
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
4
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Decorative Stitching 107
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
25
26
27
Select stitch
,
or
.
Shell tuck stitching
5
6
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
Stitch between the straight stitches.
Fold the fabric along the bias.
1
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
7
2
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
20
Select stitch
, and then increase the
3
4
thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
1
1 Needle drop point
108
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Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
5
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
2
allowances.
2
1
1
3
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
3 Straight stitch
22
23
24
Select stitch
,
or
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
1
1 Right side of fabric
Decorative Stitching 109
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Start sewing.
4
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
Install the wing needle.
1
CAUTION
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Select a stitch.
3
33
The stitches that can be used are
,
34
40
35
36
37
38
39
,
,
,
,
,
,
41
or
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less.
110
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Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
5
6
X The settings screen appears.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
Press
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
(OK key).
7
8
X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
1
Press
to select
, press
.
To return to
.
X The pattern is flipped.
Press (OK key).
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
2
9
0
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
so that it looks like the previous stitching.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
33
Select stitch
.
3
4
N
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
along the right edge of the frayed section.
Set the mirror image pattern setting back to
.
a
N
Decorative Stitching 111
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
Pull out several threads from two sections of
the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
1
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
1
1 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
36
Select stitch
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
N
112
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Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns
Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming foot
“N”.
Sewing beautiful patterns
Sewing patterns
In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following
must be considered.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
■ Fabric
Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics
with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer
material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a
thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under
the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched
stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn,
be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to steps
2
3
■ Needles and threads
4
through
9
of
When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch
fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing
thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should
be used.
Start sewing.
■ Trial sewing
Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric
being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material
is used, the desired result may not be achieved.
Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing
your project. In addition, while sewing, be sure to
guide the fabric with your hands in order to
prevent the fabric from slipping.
• The stitching is sewn in the direction
indicated by the arrow.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 113
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sew reinforcement stitches.
4
When sewing with a character stitch,
reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn
after each character.
Combining patterns
Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn
together.
• When sewing a pattern with a stitch other
than a character stitch, it is useful to first set
the automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching setting. For details, refer to
Select the first pattern, and then press
(OK key).
1
X The first pattern is selected and appears in
the LCD.
When you are finished sewing, use scissors to
trim off any excess threads at the beginning of
the stitching and between the patterns.
5
• When the sewing is started, the selected
pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing
machine is stopped.
Press the + key in the operation panel.
2
X The screen for selecting a pattern appears
again.
Select the next pattern, and then press
(OK key).
3
To select a different stitch type, press
(stitch selection key).
X The combined patterns appear in the LCD.
• To remove a selected pattern, press the C
key in the operation panel. The pattern that
was selected last is removed.
Repeat steps
2
and
3
.
4
5
After all of the desired patterns are selected,
start sewing.
1
1 Sewing direction
X The order that the patterns appear in the
LCD is the order that they will be sewn.
114
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Repeat sewing patterns
To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the
procedure described below.
Select the pattern.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns” (on
1
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
2
3
X The settings screen appears.
Memo
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
● Up to 70 patterns can be combined.
● Some utility stitches cannot be combined.
● If multiple patterns have been combined,
the sewing machine stops once all the
selected patterns displayed in the LCD have
been sewn. To repeatedly sew the
combined pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
4
5
● The combined pattern can be stored for
later use. For details, refer to “Storing a
X The screen for specifying repeat sewing
appears.
Press
to select
(repeat sewing).
To return to
(single sewing), press
.
Press
(OK key).
6
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the machine is set to repeatedly sew the
selected pattern.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Checking the selected
1
2
pattern
Up to 70 patterns can be combined. If all of the
selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at
the same time, the pattern can be checked according
to the following procedure.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
1
2
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
1 Single
2 Repeated
Press
(OK key).
3
4
Note
X The screen for checking the pattern appears.
● If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is
repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is
stopped.
Press
and
to scroll through the
pattern and check it.
● If the sewing machine is turned off, the
repeated/single sewing setting returns to its
default setting.
Press
(OK key).
5
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
116
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Changing the pattern size
The size of character stitches in the Gothic font and
outline style can be switched between large and
small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be
changed.
Select a stitch.
Select a character stitch in either the Gothic
1
font or outline style.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
Memo
2
3
● The large pattern size is the default. If the
small pattern size is selected, small patterns
can be combined and connected.
● If multiple patterns have been combined,
the size of each selected pattern can be
specified.
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
4
5
X The screen for changing the pattern size
appears.
Press
selected.
and
until the desired size is
Select
for the small size or select
for
the large size.
X The pattern size is changed.
Press
(OK key).
6
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Changing the pattern length
Changing the stitch
density
The length of one part of a satin stitch can be set to
one of five sizes.
If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the
stitch density can be changed.
Select a satin stitch
.
1
2
Select a decorative satin stitch
.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
1
2
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
X The settings screen appears.
X The settings screen appears.
Press
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
3
is selected.
Press
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
3
is selected.
(OK key).
4
5
(OK key).
4
5
X The screen for changing the length of a satin
stitch appears.
X The screen for specifying the stitching
density of the decorative satin stitch
appears.
Press
selected.
and
until the desired ratio is
The length can be set within the range of
Press
selected.
and
until the desired density is
and
.
Select
for coarser stitching or select
for finer stitching.
X The satin stitch length is changed.
Press (OK key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
6
Press
(OK key).
6
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the stitching density is changed.
CAUTION
● If the stitching density is too fine,
depending on the needle, the stitches
may be bunched together, causing the
needle to break.
118
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Memo
Mirror imaging the pattern
● Some of the utility and decorative patterns
can be mirror imaged.
● Mirror imaged patterns can also be
combined with other patterns.
The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical
axis.
Select a stitch.
1
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
2
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
3
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
4
5
X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern
appears.
Press
To return to
to select
, press
.
.
X The pattern is mirror imaged.
Press
(OK key).
6
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
1
2
1 Normal
2 Mirror-imaged
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 119
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press
(OK key).
Storing a pattern
6
7
X The contents of the selected pocket are
Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since
stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine
is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. This is
convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be
used often. Up to five patterns can be stored.
displayed.
Check the contents, and then press
key).
(OK
The contents stored in the
overwritten.
pocket are
■ Storing a pattern
Create the combined pattern that you wish to
store.
X “Saving...” appears while the pattern is
1
being stored in the pocket.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
• Do not turn off the sewing machine while a
pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern
data may be lost.
X After the pattern is stored, the initial stitch
screen appears again.
■ Recalling a pattern
Press
(stitch selection key) in the
2
Press
(stitch selection key) in the
1
operation panel.
operation panel.
X The screen containing the various types of
X The screen containing the various types of
stitches appears.
stitches appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
3
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
2
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
Press
(OK key).
4
5
3
4
X The screen for selecting the storage location
X The screen for selecting a pocket appears.
(pocket) appears.
Press
and
until the pocket containing
Press
and
until the pocket (1 through
the pattern that you wish to recall is selected.
5) where you wish to store the pattern is
selected.
A pattern is stored in the pocket.
indicates an empty pocket.
indicates
a pocket where a pattern is already stored.
120
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Press
(OK key).
Realigning the pattern
5
6
X The contents of the selected pocket are
The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending
on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed.
If this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a
piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for
your project.
displayed.
Check the contents, and then press
key).
(OK
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
To select a different pocket, press
key).
(back
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
the pattern from the selected pocket is
recalled.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Press
(stitch selection key) in the
2
operation panel.
X The screen containing the various types of
stitches appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
3
is selected, and then select
.
X The pattern alignment stitch is selected.
Start sewing.
4
X The pattern for making the adjustment is
sewn.
X The sewing machine stops after it has
finished sewing the pattern.
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 121
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Check the sewn pattern.
When the pattern is sewn correctly, press
(OK key).
5
a
If the part of the pattern indicated in the
illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is
correctly aligned.
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
If the pattern is not sewn correctly, following
the steps below to adjust the sewing.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
6
7
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears.
Press (–) or (+).
(OK key).
8
9
X Make the necessary adjustments according
to how the pattern is sewn.
Press
Press
to increase the adjustment setting.
to decrease the adjustment setting.
Start sewing again, and then check the
pattern.
0
Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn
correctly.
122
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Designing a Pattern
With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself.
Drawing a sketch of the
pattern
Prepare a grid sheet set.
Mark the points in the pattern that are
3
Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet
set.
positioned at intersections in the grid, and
then link those points with a continuous
straight line.
1
Draw the pattern as one continuous line and
with the start point and the end point of the
design at the same height.
Determine the sewing order.
4
9
8
6
7
5
4
10
11
12
3
13
2
If the pattern will be repeated, determine the
space between the repeating patterns.
2
0
1
16
15
17
14
For a more attractive stitch, close the pattern
by intersecting the line.
Designing a Pattern 123
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Specify the coordinates of the second point,
6
and then press
(OK key).
Entering the pattern data
Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and
program the pattern into the sewing machine.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
X A screen appears, allowing you to specify
the settings for the stitching between the
two points.
Specify whether single stitching or triple
stitching will be sewn between the points.
7
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Press
stitching or for triple stitching, and then
press (OK key).
and
to select for single
Turn on the sewing machine.
2
Press
(stitch selection key) in the
3
operation panel.
X The screen containing the various types of
X A screen for selecting the next operation
stitches appears.
appears.
Select
, and then press
(OK key).
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
(OK
8
4
is selected, and then press
key).
X The screen for entering a pattern appears.
• If you make a mistake while specifying a
point, press the C key to erase the last point
specified.
1
X A screen for specifying the next point
appears.
3
2
Repeat steps
point.
Up to 99 points can be entered.
6
through
8
to specify each
1 Number of the current point/Total number of
points
9
2 Horizontal coordinate (0–75)
3 Vertical coordinate (0–14)
Check the grid sheet set, and specify the
coordinates of the first point.
5
Press
and
to select the horizontal
After all points in the pattern have been
coordinate and press
and
to select the
(OK
0
vertical coordinate, and then press
key).
specified, select
in the screen that appears
(OK key).
in step , and then press
8
124
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X The embroidery screen appears.
Specify the various stitching settings, such as
reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same
way as with other stitches.
a
• With this screen displayed, pressing
(back key) allows you to add or remove
points.
Memo
● To store the entered pattern data, store it
from the embroidery screen. For details,
● The pattern in the LCD will appear different
from the pattern drawn in the grid sheet set
and the actual sewn stitch. Also, refer to
these when entering the design.
Designing a Pattern 125
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Design exampled
Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch.
Point
Point
Point
Point
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
0
0
3
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
38
35
32
30
32
35
41
45
47
44
45
47
50
54
56
55
51
45
70
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
4
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
3
5
8
0
5
8
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
16
18
21
25
28
33
37
41
43
44
10
12
13
14
14
13
11
8
12
18
22
23
21
17
14
12
9
6
3
1
3
6
11
13
14
14
13
12
11
9
6
3
1
0
10
13
14
13
11
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
4
7
11
12
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
30
27
24
21
18
16
15
15
5
0
9
7
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
11
13
14
13
10
6
3
0
0
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
6
12
41
43
40
41
0
1
3
5
8
Point
Point
Point
Point
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
0
0
1
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
10
12
8
12
7
12
6
10
5
10
16
19
23
22
17
22
23
19
42
11
10
9
8
6
6
3
2
0
2
1
0
0
6
10
6
0
0
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
0
5
4
5
8
7
7
3
7
7
0
7
7
3
7
7
3
0
3
7
11
14
11
7
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
20
21
24
23
24
27
27
27
32
27
23
20
16
20
23
27
32
11
7
7
14
7
7
11
7
7
11
14
11
7
30
32
32
32
33
35
35
37
35
32
30
30
29
26
24
18
13
12
13
7
10
12
11
8
12
14
14
11
5
7
8
11
11
11
16
11
7
4
0
4
7
9
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
3
8
3
0
3
7
10
13
14
14
12
11
16
21
0
7
126
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4
APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this
chapter.
Stitch Settings .......................................................................................................128
Maintenance ........................................................................................................135
Troubleshooting ...................................................................................................137
Index ....................................................................................................................144
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks,
etc.
Reverse +
thread-cut-
ting
1
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
J
J
Yes Reverse
No
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Reinforce-
Basic stitching and
sewing gathers or pin-
tucks
2
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Reinforce- ment +
Straight
stitch
Yes
Yes
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Attaching zippers,
basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks,
etc.
Reverse +
thread-cut-
ting
3
2.5
0.2–5.0
J/I
J
–
–
Yes Reverse
No
No
No
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching sleeves, sew-
ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and dec-
orative stitching
Reinforce-
4
Triple stretch
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Yes
Yes
No
stitch
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitch-
ing
5
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Stretch stitch
J
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
6
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
Reinforce- ment +
Basting stitch
J
J
J
Temporarily securing
–
–
No
No
Yes
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reverse +
thread-cut-
ting
7
Overcasting and
attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes Reverse
Zigzag
stitch
Reinforce-
Beginning sewing from
the right needle posi-
tion
8
3.5
2.5–5.0
1.4
0.3–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Yes
Yes
Yes
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Overcasting on medi-
umweight or stretch
fabrics, attaching elas- (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
tic, darning, etc.
Reinforce-
9
2-point zigzag
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
J
Yes
No
stitch
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Overcasting on medi-
umweight or stretch
fabrics, attaching elas- (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
tic, darning, etc.
Reinforce-
10
3-point zigzag
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
stitch
ment
thread-cut-
ting
128
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Reinforce-
11
12
13
Overcasting on thin or
mediumweight fabrics
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
G
G
G
J
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Overcasting on thick
fabrics and decorative
stitching
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Overcasting
stitch
Reinforce-
14
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
15
16
17
Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics and decorative
stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
(3/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforce- ment +
R
R
J
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Blind hem
stitch
Reinforce-
18
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforce- ment +
3← – 3→
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
19
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Appliqué stitch
Appliqué stitching
Shell tuck stitching
Scallop stitching
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
20
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Shell tuck stitch
J
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
21
Satin scallop
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Reinforce- ment +
N
J
stitch
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitch-
ing
22
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching
and sewing overcasting
on both pieces of fab-
ric, such as with tricot
Reinforce-
23
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Joining stitch
J
Yes
No
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitch-
ing
24
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
J
J
J
J
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
25
Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Smocking stitch
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
26
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Fagoting stitch
Reinforce-
27
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
28
Elastic-attach-
ing stitch
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Stitch Settings 129
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Reinforce-
29
30
31
32
33
34
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
J
Decorative stitching
Decorative stitching
Decorative stitching
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16)
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
(1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
N
N
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Lace sewing, decora-
tive hemming, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Decorative hemming,
6.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
heirloom stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
Reinforce-
35
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
N
N
N
N
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4)
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Decorative
stitch
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
Reinforce-
36
37
38
5.0
1.5–7.0
4.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
Reinforce-
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
Reinforce-
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Decorative hemming,
ribbon threading, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
39
40
41
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
N
N
N
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4)
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
130
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Horizontal button-
holes on thin and
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
42
43
44
45
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
mediumweight fabrics
Horizontal button-
holes on areas that are
subject to strain
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Horizontal button-
holes on thick fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Secured buttonholes
for fabrics that have
backings
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
46
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
Thread-cut-
ting
(15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16)
Buttonhole
stitch
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
47
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
Thread-cut-
ting
(15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
48
49
50
51
52
5.0
0.0–6.0
2.0
0.2–4.0
Thread-cut-
ting
Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
7.0
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
for thick or furry fabrics (1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes
7.0
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
for mediumweight and
(1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
thick fabrics
Horizontal button-
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
holes for thick or furry
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
fabrics
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Darning medium-
weight fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Thread-cut-
ting
(3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Darning stitch
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
53
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
2.0
0.4–2.5
Thread-cut-
ting
Darning thick fabrics
(3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes
loose
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
54
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
Thread-cut-
ting
Bar tack stitch
A
M
N
No
No
No
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Reinforce-
55
Button-sewing
3.5
2.5–4.5
Reinforce- ment +
ment
Button sewing
–
–
No
stitch
(1/8) (3/32–3/16)
thread-cut-
ting
7.0, 6.0,
7.0, 6.0,
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
56
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
Thread-cut-
ting
Eyelet stitch
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the
presser foot)
Reinforce-
57
5.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
J
No
No
No
(7/32)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Piecing straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the
presser foot)
Reinforce-
58
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
Reinforce- ment +
Yes
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Straight stitch
Reinforce-
59
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
that looks hand-
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
J
J
No
No
No
No
Yes
No
sewn (for quilt-
ing)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
60
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Reinforce- ment +
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
61
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Stitch Settings 131
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Reinforce-
62
Quilting stitch
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
1.0–-7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
J
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(for stippling)
(1/4)
(1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
63
Sewing straight stitches
while cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
0.2–5.0
Reinforce- ment +
S
S
S
S
S
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
64
Sewing zigzag stitches
while cutting the fabric (1/8)
3.5
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16) (1/16)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Reinforce- ment +
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Overcasting on thin
Reinforce-
65
and mediumweight
fabrics while cutting
the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
Side cutter
(1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Reinforce-
Overcasting on thick
fabrics while cutting
the fabric
66
67
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
Overcasting on medi-
umweight and thick
fabrics while cutting
the fabric
Reinforce-
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce- ment +
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
thread-cut-
ting
132
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Other stitches
Stitch Type
Pattern
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
20
30
11
21
31
1
12
22
13
23
14
24
15
25
16
26
17
27
18
28
19
29
Decorative
stitches
N
No Large No Yes Yes
*
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Satin stitches
Cross-stitches
N
Yes Large No Yes Yes
11
1
12
2
13
3
14
4
15
5
16
N
N
No Large No Yes Yes
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Yes
Decorativesatin
stitches
No Large Yes
Yes
(length
only)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
20
30
40
50
11
21
31
41
51
12
22
32
42
52
13
23
33
43
53
14
24
34
44
54
15
25
35
45
55
16
26
36
46
17
27
37
47
18
28
38
48
19
29
39
49
Character
stitches
(Gothic font)
Large,
Small
N
No
No
No Yes
*Pattern for making adjustment
Stitch Settings 133
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Type
Pattern
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
20
30
40
50
11
21
31
41
51
1
12
22
32
42
52
2
13
23
33
43
53
3
14
24
34
44
54
4
15
25
35
45
55
5
16
26
36
46
17
27
37
47
18
28
38
48
19
29
39
49
Character
stitches
(Script font)
N
No Large No
No Yes
6
7
8
9
10
20
30
40
50
11
21
31
41
51
12
22
32
42
52
13
23
33
43
53
14
24
34
44
54
15
25
35
45
55
16
26
36
46
17
27
37
47
18
28
38
48
19
29
39
49
Character
stitches
(Outline style)
Large,
Small
N
No
No
No Yes
134
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Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the shuttle
Cleaning the machine
surface
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
Turn off the sewing machine.
1
CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you.
2
1
1 Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
Maintenance 135
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turn the balance wheel toward you until the
tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of
the race shelf.
Check that the edge of the race shelf is
positioned as in step , and then insert the
shuttle so that the projection on the shuttle
3
6
3
aligns with the spring.
3
1
4
1
2
1 Shuttle race
2 Shuttle
3 Edge of the shuttle race
4 Tip of the shuttle hook
2
• Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward
you. Turning the balance wheel away from
you may damage the machine.
2
Remove the shuttle.
Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out.
4
1
1 Projection
2 Spring
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.
7
1
1 Shuttle
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
5
CAUTION
● Never use a shuttle that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
shuttle (part code: XC3153-051), contact
your nearest authorized service center.
● Be sure that the shuttle is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may
break.
1
2
1 Cleaning brush
2 Shuttle race
• Do not apply oil to the shuttle.
136
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Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The machine is not turned on.
Turn on the machine.
The start/stop button was not
pressed.
Press the start/stop button.
Lower the presser foot lever.
The sewing
machine does
not operate.
The presser foot lever is raised.
–
Do not use the start/stop button
when the foot controller is con-
nected. To use the start/stop button,
disconnect the foot controller.
The start/stop button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Correctly install the needle.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
Replace the needle.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
–
The fabric is pulled too much.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Lightly guide the fabric.
The needle
breaks.
Correctly install the spool.
The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
–
–
–
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Troubleshooting 137
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the nee-
dle bar thread hook).
Correct the upper threading.
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The selected needle is not appropri- Select a needle that is appropriate
ate for the thread being used. for the type of stitch being used.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example,
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
in the shuttle.
–
the shuttle.
The upper
thread breaks.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
–
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
Replace the bobbin.
–
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the shuttle.
The thread is tangled.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
The thread ten-
sion is incorrect.
The presser foot holder is incorrectly Correctly install the presser foot
installed.
holder.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
138
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Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly, or the bobbin is incor-
rectly installed.
Correctly thread the upper thread
and correctly install the bobbin
thread.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the spool.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too coarse.
Shorten the stitch length or sew with
stabilizer material under the fabric.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the shuttle.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the shuttle.
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the shuttle.
Clean the shuttle.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
A high-pitched
noise is made
while sewing.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
–
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Press the needle position button to
raise the needle.
The needle
threader cannot
be used.
The needle was not raised.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The presser foot that is used is not
Correctly install the needle.
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
Troubleshooting 139
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
The feed dogs are lowered.
The stitch is too fine.
Remedy
Reference
Slide the drop feed lever to the left.
Lengthen the stitch length.
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
The fabric does
not feed.
Turn the presser foot pressure dial to
the right to increase the pressure of
the presser foot.
The pressure of the presser foot is
weak.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
The sewing lamp
does not come on.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
–
Nothingappears The brightness of the LCD is either
in the LCD. too light or too dark.
Adjust the brightness of the LCD.
140
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Error messages
If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed
incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear.
If you press
(OK key),
(back key) or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Error Message
Probable Cause
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button
or thread cutter button was pressed while the presser
foot was raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position
button or thread cutter button was pressed while the
bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot control-
ler was connected.
A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning
stitch was selected and the start/stop button was pressed
while the buttonhole lever is lowered.
The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected
and the start/stop button was pressed while the button-
hole lever is raised.
The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch but-
ton was pressed after a stitch has been deleted.
A pattern is being stored.
The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.
More than 71 patterns are being combined.
The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the
foot controller while the setting for adjusting the stitch
width using the sewing speed controller is set to [ON].
The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that
cannot be sewn with the twin needle is selected.
The first pattern was selected while two or more patterns
are combined.
The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected
pattern.
Troubleshooting 141
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Nothing appears in the LCD
Operation beep
If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing
machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is
either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform
the following operation.
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed, a beep is sounded.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Turn off the sewing machine.
1
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
While pressing
operation panel, turn on the sewing machine.
(back key) in the
2
3
Press
(–) or
(+).
Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the
screens can be seen.
Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on
again.
4
142
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Removing the upper cover
Cancelling the operation
beep
If the upper cover of the sewing machine was
removed, re-attach it as described in the following
procedure.
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time an operation panel key is pressed.
This setting can be changed so that the machine does
not beep.
Hold the upper cover level.
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
X The LCD comes on.
Push the upper cover down to re-attach it to
the machine.
Press
(settings key) in the operation panel.
2
2
3
X The settings screen appears.
Press
,
,
and
(arrow keys) until
is selected.
Press
(OK key).
4
5
X The screen for changing the beep setting
appears.
Press
to select
, press
.
To return to
.
X The machine is now set so that it will not
beep.
Press
(OK key).
6
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Troubleshooting 143
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Index
Symbols
D
Numerics
E
A
F
B
H
J
K
C
L
M
144
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N
O
P
T
Q
R
U
S
Index 145
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
W
Z
146
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English
885-S62
XE1139-001
Printed in China
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