Husqvarna Chainsaw 254XP 257 262XP User Manual

254XP/257/262XP

Operator´s manual

Please read these instructions carefully and make

sure you understand them before using the saw.

101 88 43-26

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CONTENTS

Before using a new saw

Contents

• Read the instructions carefully.

• Check cutting equipment is correctly fitted and adjusted. See

page 25.

Key to symbols ..........................................2

Safety instructions

Personal protective equipment ........................ 4

• Refuel and start the saw. Check the carburettor settings.

See pages 26-29.

• Do not use the saw until sufficient chain oil has reached the

chain, see page 14.

Chain saw safety equipment ........................... 4

Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety

equipment............................................................................ 8

IMPORTANT! If the carburettor mixture is too lean it greatly

increases the risk of engine failure.

Poor maintenance of the air filter will cause carbon build-up on

the spark plug and lead to difficult starting.

If the chain is badly adjusted it will cause increased wear or

damage to the bar, drive sprocket and chain.

Cutting equipment ..........................................10

How to avoid kickback ....................................16

General safety precautions.............................18

General working instructions ......................... 19

What is what?

What is what? .................................................................... 24

Assembly

Under no circumstances should you modify

the original design of the chain saw without

approval from the manufacturer. Always use

genuine spare parts. Unauthorized

modifications or accessories may lead to

serious injury or death.

Mounting guide bar and chain ........................................... 25

Fuel handling

Fuelmix .............................................................................. 26

Fuelling .............................................................................. 27

Start and stop

Start and stop .................................................................... 28

A chain saw is a dangerous tool if used

carelessly or incorrectly and can cause

serious, even fatal injuries. It is very important

that you read and understand these

instructions.

Maintenance

Carburettor ........................................................................ 29

Starter device .................................................................... 30

Air filter .............................................................................. 31

Spark plug ......................................................................... 31

Muffler................................................................................ 31

Adjustment of the oil pump ................................................ 31

Needle bearing maintenance ............................................ 31

Cooling system .................................................................. 32

Centrifugal cleaning ”Air Injection” .................................... 32

Heated handles ................................................................. 32

Winter use ......................................................................... 32

Daily maintenance ............................................................. 33

Weekly maintenance ......................................................... 33

Monthly maintenance ........................................................ 33

Technical data

254XP................................................................................ 34

257 .................................................................................... 34

262XP................................................................................ 35

English – 3

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

CHAIN SAW SAFETY EQUIPMENT

This section explains the various safety features of the saw,

how they work, and basic inspection and maintenance you

should carry out to ensure safe operation. (See the ”What is

what?” section to find out where these components are on Your

saw).

MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERA-

TOR. You must wear approved protective

equipment whenever you use a chain saw.

Personal protective equipment cannot

eliminate the risk of injury but it will reduce

the degree of injury if an accident does

happen. Ask your chain saw dealer for help

in choosing the right equipment.

NEVER USE A CHAIN SAW THAT HAS

FAULTY SAFETY EQUIPMENT! Carry out the

inspection, maintenance and service routines

listed in this section.

Long or continuous exposure to high noise

levels may cause permanent hearing

impairment. Always wear approved hearing

Chain brake and front

hand guard

protection when operating a chain saw.

• PROTECTIVE HELMET

• HEARING PROTECTION

• PROTECTIVE GLASSES

OR VISOR

Throttle lock

• GLOVES WITH

SAW PROTECTION

Chain catcher

Right hand guard

Vibration damping system

Stop switch

• PROTECTIVE TROUSERS

WITH SAW PROTECTION

• BOOTS WITH SAW

PROTECTION, STEEL

TOE-CAP AND NON-SLIP

SOLE

Generally clothes should be

close-fitting without restricting

your freedom of movement.

Muffler

• ALWAYS HAVE A FIRST

AID KIT NEARBY

Cutting equipment (see

”Cutting equipment”

section).

4– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

The front hand guard is

not designed solely to

1 Chain brake and front hand guard

YOUR chain saw is equipped with a chain brake that is desig-

ned to stop the chain immediately if you get a kickback.

The chain brake reduces the risk of accidents, but only You can

prevent them.

activate the chain brake.

Another important safety

feature is that it prevents

the chain from hitting your

left hand if you lose your

grip on the front handle.

Take care when using your

saw and make sure the

kickback zone of the bar

never touches any object.

You can also use the

chain brake as a

The chain brake (A) can

either be activated

manually (by your left

hand) or automatically by

the inertia release

mechanism (a free-

swinging pendulum). On

most of our models the

front hand guard acts as a

counterweight in case of

kickback.

temporary brake when you

change position or if you

put the saw down for a

short time. You should

also apply the chain brake

manually if there is a risk

of the chain accidentally

hitting anyone or anything

close by.

The brake is applied

when the front hand

guard (B) is pushed

forwards.

To release the chain brake

pull the front hand guard

backwards, towards the

front handle.

This movement activates

a spring-loaded

mechanism that tightens

the Brake Band (C)

around the engine drive

system (D) (Clutch Drum).

As mentioned in section A,

kickback can be very

sudden and violent.

Most kickbacks are

minor and do not always

activate the chain brake.

If this happens you

should hold the chain

saw firmly and not let

go.

English – 5

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

The way the chain brake is triggered, either manually or

2 Throttle lock

automatically, depends on the force of the kickback and the

position of the chain saw in relation to the object that the

kickback zone of the bar strikes.

The throttle lock is designed

to prevent accidental opera-

tion of the throttle control.

When you press the lock (A)

(i.e. when you grasp the

handle) it releases the throttle

trigger (B).

If you get a violent

kickback while the

kickback zone of the bar

is farthest away from you

the chain brake will be

activated by the

movement of the

counterweight (INERTIA

ACTIVATED).

When you release the handle

the throttle trigger and the

throttle lock both move back

to their original positions. This

movement is controlled by two

independent return springs.

This arrangement means that

the throttle control is

automatically locked at the

idle setting when you release

the handle.

3 Chain catcher

The chain catcher is designed

to catch the chain if it snaps or

jumps off. This should not

happen if the chain is properly

tensioned (see section on

”Assembly”) and if the bar and

chain are properly serviced

and maintained.

If the kickback is less

violent or the kickback

zone of the bar is closer

to you the chain brake will

be activated manually by

the movement of your left

hand.

(See section on ”General

working instructions”).

4 Right hand guard

Apart from protecting your

hand if the chain jumps or

snaps, the right hand guard

stops branches and twigs

from interfering with your grip

on the rear handle.

During felling your left

hand grasps the front

handle in such a way that

it cannot activate the front

hand guard. In this

position the chain brake

can only be activated by

the inertia action of the

counterweight.

The inertia activated

chain brake increases

your safety but there are

certain factors to

remember (see point 6

above).

6– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

6 Stop switch

Use the stop switch to switch

off the engine.

5 Vibration damping system

Your chain saw is equipped

with a vibration damping

system that is designed to

minimise vibrations and make

operation easier.

When you use a chain saw

vibrations are generated by

the uneven contact between

the chain and the wood you

are cutting.

Cutting hardwoods (most

broadleaf trees) creates more

vibration than cutting

softwoods (most conifers).

Cutting with a chain that is

blunt or faulty (wrong type or

badly sharpened, see section

D) will increase the vibration

level.

7 Muffler

The muffler is designed to keep noise levels to a minimum and

to direct exhaust fumes away from the user.

The exhaust fumes from the engine are hot

and may contain sparks which can start a fire.

Never start the saw indoors or near

The vibration damping system

reduces the vibrations

transmitted from the engine

and chain to the handles of

the chain saw. The body of

the saw, including the cutting

equipment, is insulated from

the handles by vibration

damping units.

combustible material!

In countries with a hot climate

there is a high risk of forest

fires. Our chain saws are

therefore fitted with a SPARK

ARRESTOR MESH.

Check whether your saw is

fitted with such a mesh.

Overexposure to vibration can lead to

circulatory damage or nerve damage in people

who have impaired circulation.

Contact your doctor if you experience

symptoms of overexposure to vibration.

These symptoms include numbness, loss of

feeling, tingling, pricking, pain, loss of

strength, changes in skin colour or condition.

These symptoms normally appear in the

fingers, hands or wrists.

With this type of muffler it is

very important that you follow

the instructions on checking,

maintaining and servicing your

saw (see the section on

”Inspecting, maintaining and

servicing chain saw safety

equipment”).

The muffler gets very hot in use and remains

so for a short time afterwards. DO NOT

TOUCH THE MUFFLER IF IT IS HOT!

English – 7

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Checking the automatic brake

Inspecting, maintaining and servicing

chain saw safety equipment

SPECIAL TRAINING IS REQUIRED to service

and repair chain saws. This is especially true

of chain saw safety equipment. If your chain

saw fails any of the checks described below

take it to your SERVICE AGENT.

When you buy any of our products we

guarantee the availability of professional

repairs and service. If the retailer who sells

your saw is not a SERVICING DEALER, ask

him for the address of your nearest SERVICE

AGENT.

Hold the chain saw over a

stump or other firm object.

Let go of the front handle

so that the bar falls onto

the stump.

1 Chain brake and front hand guard

When the bar hits the

stump the brake should

be applied.

Checking brake band wear

Brush off any sawdust,

resin and dirt from the

chain brake and clutch

drum. Dirt and wear can

impair operation of the

brake.

Checking the brake trigger

Start the chain saw and

place it on firm ground.

Make sure the chain does

not touch the ground or

any other object.

Regularly check that the

brake band is at least 0.6

mm thick at its thinnest

point.

Checking the front hand guard

Grasp the saw firmly,

wrapping your fingers and

thumbs around the

handles.

A Make sure the

FRONT HAND GUARD

is not damaged and

that there are no visible

defects such as cracks.

Apply full throttle and

activate the chain brake

by tilting your wrist

forward onto the front

hand guard. Do not let go

of the front handle.

The chain should stop

immediately.

B Move the front hand

guard forwards and

back to make sure it

runs freely and that it is

securely anchored to

the clutch cover.

8– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

2 Throttle lock

4 Right hand guard

Make sure the throttle

control is locked at the

idle setting when you

release the throttle lock.

Check that the right hand

guard is not damaged and

that there are no visible

defects, such as cracks.

Press the throttle lock and

make sure it returns to its

original position when you

release it.

5 Vibration damping system

Regularly check the

vibration damping units

for cracks or deformation

Check that the throttle

control and throttle lock

move freely and that the

return springs work

properly.

Make sure the vibration

damping units are

securely attached to the

engine unit and handles.

Start the saw and apply

full throttle. Release the

throttle control and check

that the chain stops and

remains stationary. If the

chain rotates when the

throttle is on idle setting

you should check the

carburettor idle

6 Stop switch

adjustment. See the

section on ”Maintenance”.

Start the engine and

make sure the engine

stops when you move the

stop switch to the stop

setting.

3 Chain catcher

Check that the CHAIN

CATCHER is not

damaged and is firmly

attached to the body of

the saw.

English – 9

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

7 Muffler

CUTTING EQUIPMENT

Never use a chain saw

This section describes how to choose and maintain your cutting

equipment in order to:

that has a faulty muffler.

• Reduce the risk of kickback.

• Reduce the risk of the chain breaking or jumping.

• Obtain maximum cutting performance.

• Extend the life of cutting equipment.

The 5 basic rules

Only use cutting

equipment

recommended by us!

See the ”Technical data”

section.

Regularly check that the

muffler is securely

attached to the chain saw.

Keep the chain cutting

teeth properly

If the muffler on your saw

is fitted with a spark

arrestor mesh this must

be cleaned regularly. A

blocked mesh will cause

the engine to overheat

and may lead to serious

damage.

sharpened! Follow our

instructions and use the

recommended file

gauge. A damaged or

badly sharpened chain

increases the risk of

accidents.

Never use a muffler if

the spark arrestor mesh

is missing or defective.

Maintain the correct

raker clearance! Follow

our instructions and

use the recommended

raker gauge. Too large a

clearance increases the

risk of kickback.

NEVER USE A CHAIN SAW WITH FAULTY

SAFETY EQUIPMENT. CARRY OUT THE

CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE MEASURES

DESCRIBED IN THIS SECTION. IF YOUR

CHAIN SAW FAILS ANY OF THESE CHECKS

CONTACT YOUR SERVICE AGENT TO GET IT

REPAIRED.

Keep the chain properly

tesioned! If the chain is

slack it is more likely to

jump off and lead to

increased wear on the

bar, chain and drive

sprocket.

Keep cutting equipment

well lubricated and

properly maintained!

A poorly lubricated chain

is more likely to break and

lead to increased wear on

the bar, chain and drive

sprocket.

10– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Some terms that describe the bar and chain

1 Cutting equipment designed to minimise

When the cutting equipment supplied with your saw becomes

worn or damaged you will need to replace it. Use only the type

of bar and chain recommended by us. See the ”Technical data”

section to find out which equipment is recommended for your

saw.

kickback

Faulty cutting equipment or the wrong

combination of bar and chain increases the

risk of kickback. Use only the bar and chain

combinations recommended in the ”Technical

data” section.

Bar

The only way to avoid kickback is to make sure that the kick-

back zone of the bar never touches anything.

• LENGTH (inches/cm)

By using cutting equipment with “built-in” kickback protection

and keeping the chain sharp and well-maintained you can

reduce the effects of kickback.

• NUMBER OF TEETH ON

BAR TIP SPROCKET (T).

Small number = small tip

radius = low-kickback

A Bar

The smaller the tip radius the

smaller the kickback zone and

the lower the chance of

kickback.

• CHAIN PITCH (inches)

The spacing between the

drive links of the chain must

match the spacing of the

teeth on the bar tip sprocket

and drive sprocket.

• NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS

The number of drive links is

determined by the length of

the bar, the chain pitch and

the number of teeth on the

bar tip sprocket.

B Saw chain

A saw chain is made up of a number of links, which are

available in standard and low-kickback versions.

None

Standard Low-kickback

• BAR GROOVE WIDTH

(inches/mm)

The groove in the bar must

match the width of the chain

drive links.

CUTTING LINK

DRIVE LINK

• SAW CHAIN OIL HOLE

AND HOLE FOR CHAIN

TENSIONER

The bar must be matched to

the chain saw design.

SIDE LINK

Saw chain

Combining these links in different ways gives different degrees

of kickback reduction. In terms of kickback reduction alone, four

different types of link are available.

• SAW CHAIN PITCH

(inches)

Spacing between drive

links.

Kickback reduction

LOW

Cutting link

Drive link

Side link

• DRIVE LINK WIDTH (mm/

inches)

• NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS

STANDARD

HIGH

• LEVEL OF KICKBACK

REDUCTION

The level of kickback

reduction offered by a chain

is indicated by its model

number.

See the ”Technical data”

section to find the model

numbers of chains that are

recommended for use with

your saw.

EXTRA HIGH

English – 11

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

It is very difficult to sharpen a

chain correctly without the

right equipment. We

2 Sharpening your chain and adjusting

raker clearance

recommend you use a file

gauge. This will help you

obtain the maximum kickback

reduction and cutting

The risk of kickback is increased with a badly

sharpened chain!

performance from your chain.

A General information on sharpening cutting teeth

• Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to

exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and

the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will

not produce any cuttings at all, just wood powder.

The following faults will increase the risk of

kickback considerably.

• A sharp chain eats its way

through the wood and

produces long, thick

cuttings.

•

FILE ANGLE TOO

LARGE

CUTTING ANGLE

TOO SMALL

• The cutting part of the chain

is called the CUTTING LINK

and this consists of a

FILE DIAMETER

TOO SMALL

CUTTING TOOTH (A) and

the RAKER LIP (B). The

cutting depth is determined

by the difference in height

between the two.

Sharpening cutting

teeth

• When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are five important

factors to remember.

To sharpen cutting teeth you

will need a ROUND FILE and

a FILE GAUGE. See the

”Technical data” section for

information on the size of file

and gauge that are

FILING ANGLE

recommended for your saw

chain.

Check that the chain is

correctly tensioned. A

slack chain is difficult to

sharpen correctly.

CUTTING ANGLE

FILE POSITION

Always file cutting teeth

from the inside face,

reducing the pressure on

the return stroke.

min 4 mm

(0,16")

ROUND FILE DIAMETER

File all the teeth on one

side first, then turn the

saw over and file the

teeth on the other side.

FILE DEPTH

File all the teeth to the

same length. When the

length of the cutting teeth

is reduced to 4 mm

(0,16") the chain is worn

out and should be

See the ”Technical data” section for information about

sharpening your saw chain.

replaced.

12– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

D Setting the raker clearance

C General advice on setting raker clearance

• When you sharpen the

cutting teeth you reduce the

RAKER CLEARANCE

(cutting depth). To maintain

cutting performance you

must file back the raker

teeth to the recommended

height.

• Before setting the raker clearance the cutting teeth should be

newly sharpened.

We recommend that you adjust the raker clearance every

third time you sharpen the chain. NOTE! This

recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth

is not reduced excessively.

See the ”Technical data”

section to find the raker

clearance for your saw

chain.

• To adjust the raker

clearance you will need a

FLAT FILE and a RAKER

GAUGE.

• On a low-kickback cutting

link the front edge of the

raker lip is rounded. It is

very important that you

maintain this radius or bevel

when you adjust the raker

clearance.

• Place the gauge over the

raker lip.

• Place the file over the part

of the lip that protrudes

through the gauge and file

off the excess. The

clearance is correct when

you no longer feel any

resistance as you draw the

file over the gauge.

• We recommend the use of a

raker gauge to achieve the

correct clearance and bevel

on the raker lip.

The risk of kickback is increased if the raker

clearance is too large!

3 Tensioning the chain

A slack chain may jump off and cause serious

or even fatal injury.

• The more you use a chain the longer it becomes. It is

therefore important to adjust the chain regularly to take up the

slack.

• Check the chain tension every time you refuel.

NOTE! A new saw chain has a running-in period during which

you should check the tension more frequently.

• Tension the chain as tightly

as possible, but not so tight

that you cannot pull it round

freely by hand.

English – 13

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

4 Lubricating cutting equipment

Poor lubrication of cutting equipment may

cause the chain to snap and lead to serious,

even fatal injuries.

Undo the bar nuts that

hold the clutch cover and

chain brake, using the

combination spanner.

Then tighten the nuts by

hand as tight as you can.

Prolonged inhalation of exhaust gases from

the engine, chain lubrication oil mist and/or

saw dust can be unhealthy.

Raise the tip of the bar

and stretch the chain by

tightening the chain

tensioning screw using

the combination spanner.

Tighten the chain until it

hangs slack on the

Chain oil

• Chainsaw chain oil must demonstrate good adhesion to the

chain and also maintain its flow caracteristics regardless of

whether it is warm summer or cold winter weather.

• As a chainsaw manufacturer we have developed an optimal

chain oil which, with its vegetable oil base, is also

biodegradable. We recommend the use of our own oil for

both maximum chain life and to minimise environmental

damage.

underside of the bar.

Use the combination

spanner to tighten the bar

nuts while lifting the tip of

the bar at the same time.

Check that you can pull

the chain round freely by

hand and that it is not

slack on the bottom of the

bar.

• If our own chain oil is not available, standard chain oil is

recommended.

• In areas where oil specifically for lubrication of saw chains is

unavailable, ordinary EP 90 transmission oil may be used.

• Never use waste oil!

This is dangerous for yourself, the saw and the environment.

The position of the chain tensioning screw varies from

model to model. See the” What is what” section to find out

where it is on your saw.

Filling with chain oil

• All our chain saws have an

automatic chain lubrication

system. On some models

the oil flow is also

adjustable.

• The sizes of the chain oil

tank and fuel tank have

been chosen so that the

saw will run out of fuel

before running out of oil.

This means that you should

never run with a dry chain.

However, this safety feature

requires that you use the

right sort of chain oil (if the

oil is too thin it will run out

before the fuel), and that

you adjust the carburettor

as recommended (a weak

mixture may mean that the

fuel lasts longer than the

oil). You should also use the

recommended cutting

equipment (a bar that is too

long will use more chain oil).

The above conditions also

apply to models with an

adjustable oil pump.

14– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

C Checking chain lubrication

Lubricating the clutch drum bearing

• Check the chain lubrication

each time you refuel.

Aim the tip of the saw at a

light coloured surface about

20 cm away. After 1 minute

running at 3/4 throttle you

should see a distinct line of

oil on the light surface.

• Between the engine drive

shaft and the clutch drum is

a needle bearing that must

be lubricated daily. Use the

specially designed grease

gun and a good quality

bearing grease.

Checking wear on cutting equipment

Saw chain

If the chain lubrication is not working:

Check that the oil channel

in the bar is not

obstructed. Clean if

necessary.

Check the saw chain daily for:

• Visible cracks in rivets and

links.

• Whether the chain is stiff.

• Whether rivets and links are

badly worn.

We recommend you

Check that the groove in

the edge of the bar is

clean. Clean if necessary.

min 4 mm

(0,16")

compare the existing chain

with a new chain to decide

how badly it is worn.

Check that the bar tip

sprocket turns freely and

that the lubricating hole in

the tip is not blocked.

Clean and lubricate if

necessary.

When the length of the

cutting teeth has worn down

to only 4 mm the chain must

be replaced.

G Chain drive sprocket

If the chain lubrication

system is still not working

after carrying out the

above measures you

should contact your

service agent.

The clutch drum is fitted with one of the following drive

sprockets:

SPUR (integral drive

sprocket)

D Lubricating the bar tip sprocket

RING (replaceable)

• Lubricate the bar tip

sprocket each time you

refuel. Use the special

grease gun and a good

quality bearing grease.

Regularly check the

degree of wear on the

drive sprocket. Replace if

wear is excessive.

Replace the drive

sprocket whenever you

replace the chain.

English – 15

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

H Bar

HOW TOAVOID KICKBACK

Kickback can happen very suddenly and

violently; kicking the saw, bar and chain back

at the user. If this happens when the chain is

moving it can cause very serious, even fatal

injuries. It is vital you understand what causes

kickback and that you can avoid it by taking

care and using the right working technique.

Check regularly:

• Whether there are burrs on

the edges of the bar.

Remove these with a file if

necessary.

What is kickback?

The word kickback is used to

describe the sudden reaction

that happens when the upper

quadrant of the tip of the bar

(known as the “kickback zone”)

touches an object and the

saw is kicked backwards.

• Whether the groove in the

bar has become badly worn.

Replace the bar if

necessary.

• Whether the tip of the bar is

uneven or badly worn. If a

hollow forms on one side of

the bar tip this is due to a

slack chain.

Kickback always occurs in

the cutting plane of the saw.

Normally the saw and bar are

thrown backwards and

upwards towards the user.

However the saw may move

in a different direction

depending on the way it was

being used when the kickback

zone of the bar touched the

object.

• To prolong the life of the bar

you should turn it over daily.

MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERA-

TOR.

Kickback only occurs if the

kickback zone of the bar

touches an object.

•

WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

(see the section on ”Chain saw safety

equipment”).

•

DO NOT TACKLE ANY JOB YOU ARE UNSURE OF

(see the section on ”Personal protective

equipment”, ”How to avoid kickback”, ”General

working instructions” and ”Cutting equipment”).

•

AVOID SITUATIONS WHERE THERE IS A RISK OF

KICKBACK (see the section on ”Personal

protective equipment”).

USE THE RECOMMENDED PROTECTIVE

EQUIPMENT AND CHECK ITS CONDITION (see

section on ”General working instructions”).

CHECK THAT ALL SAFETY FUNCTIONS ARE

WORKING (see section on ”General working

instructions” and ”General safety precautions”).

16– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Take great care when you

cut with the top edge of

the bar, i.e. when cutting

from the underside of the

object. This is known as

cutting on the push

General rules

If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then

you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By

being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually

quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and

violent.

stroke. The chain tries to

push the saw back

towards the user.

Always hold the saw

firmly with your right hand

on the rear handle and

your left hand on the front

handle.

Unless the user resists

this pushing force there is

a risk that the saw will

move so far backwards

that only the kickback

zone of the bar is in

Wrap your fingers and

thumb around the hand-

les. You should use this

grip whether you are

right-handed or left-

handed. This grip

minimises the effect of

kickback and lets you

keep the saw under

control.

contact with the tree. This

will cause kickback.

Cutting with the bottom

edge of the bar, i.e. from

the top of the object

downwards, is known as

cutting on the pull stroke.

Do not let go of the

handles!

In this case the saw pulls

itself towards the tree and

the front edge of the saw

provides a natural rest

when cutting. Cutting on

the pull stroke gives you

better control over the

saw and the position of

the kickback zone.

Most kickback accidents

happen during limbing.

Make sure you are

standing firmly and that

there is nothing in the way

that might make you trip

or lose your balance.

Lack of concentration can

lead to kickback if the

kickback zone of the bar

accidentally touches a

branch, nearby tree or

some other object.

Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining your

bar and chain. When you replace the bar and chain use

only combinations that are recommended by us. See the

sections on ”Cutting equipment” and ”Technical data”.

The risk of kickback is increased if you use

the wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is

not sharpened correctly. The wrong

combination of bar and chain can increase the

risk of kickback!

Never use the saw above

shoulder height and try

not to cut with the tip of

the bar.

Never use the saw one-

handed!

Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle.

English – 17

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

FUEL SAFETY

(Refuelling, fuel mixture, storage.)

GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Chain saws are designed solely for cutting wood. The only

cutting equipment that can be used with this chain saw are

the combinations of bars and chains recommended in the

”Technical data” section.

Fuel and fuel vapour are highly inflammable.

Take care when handling fuel and chain oil.

Keep away from naked flames and do not

breathe in fuel vapour.

Never use a chain saw if

you are tired, if you have

drunk alcohol, or if you

are taking medication that

affects your vision, your

judgement or your co-

ordination.

• Never try to refuel the saw

while it is running.

• Make sure there is plenty of

ventilation when refuelling

or mixing fuel (2-stroke

mixture).

Always wear suitable protective clothing. See the section

on ”Personal protective equipment”.

Never use a chain saw that has been modified in any way

from its original specification.

• Move the saw at least 3 m

from the refuelling point

before starting it.

Never use a chain saw

that is faulty. Carry out

the regular checks,

maintenance and service

routines described in this

manual. Some

maintenance and service

measures must be carried

out by trained specialists.

See the section on

Min. 3 m

(10 ft)

• Never start the chainsaw:

a) If you have spilt fuel or

chain oil on the saw.

Wipe off the spill and

allow remaining fuel to

evaporate.

b) If you spill fuel or chain

oil on yourself or your

clothes. Change your

clothes.

”Maintenance”.

c) If there is a fuel leak.

Check regularly for

leaks from the

FUEL CAP and FUEL

LINES.

STARTING

Prolonged inhalation of exhaust gases from

the engine, chain lubrication oil mist and/or

saw dust can be unhealthy.

• Never start a chain saw

unless the bar, chain and

clutch cover are fitted

correctly. (See section on

”Assembly”).

•

Always store the chain saw and fuel away from any

sources of sparks or naked flames, e.g. machines, electric

motors, relays, switches, boilers, etc.

•

Always store fuel in an approved container designed for

that purpose.

• Never start a chain saw

indoors. Exhaust fumes can

be dangerous.

For longer periods of storage or for transport of the saw,

the fuel and chain oil tanks should be emptied. Ask where

you can dispose of waste fuel and chain oil at your local

petrol station.

• Before starting the saw

make sure there are no

people or animals nearby

who might be put at risk.

Never use any accessories other than those recommended

in this manual. See the sections on ”Cutting equipment”

and ”Technical data”.

• Place the saw on the

ground and hold the rear

handle down with your right

foot. Grasp the front handle

firmly using your left hand.

Make sure the chain saw is

steady and the chain is not

touching the ground. Then

grasp the starter handle

with your right hand and pull

the starter cord.

The risk of accident is increased if you use the

wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is not

sharpened correctly. Using the wrong combi-

nation of bar and chain can increase the risk

of accidents!

18– English

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Check the area around

you for possible obstacles

such as roots, rocks,

branches, ditches, etc., in

case you have to move

suddenly. Take great care

when working on sloping

ground.

GENERAL WORKING INSTRUCTIONS

This section describes basic safety rules for

using a chain saw. This information is no

substitute for professional skills and

experience. If you get into a situation where

you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice

(look under FORESTRY SERVICES in the

telephone directory).

DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY TASK THAT YOU

FEEL UNSURE OF!

Important

1 Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of

kickback and what causes it. (See the section on ”How to

avoid kickback”.)

Take the utmost care

when cutting through

branches or logs that are

in tension. A log or branch

that is in tension can

suddenly spring back into

its natural position before

or after you cut it. If you

stand on the wrong side

or start cutting in the

wrong place it may strike

you or your chain saw.

This could make you lose

control and cause a

2 Before using a saw you must understand the difference

between sawing with the top and bottom edges of the bar.

(See the section on ”How to avoid kickback”.)

1 Basic safety rules

Look around you:

• to make sure there are no

people, animals or other

objects nearby that might

affect your work.

• to make sure that none of

the above might come within

reach of your saw or be

injured by falling trees.

serious accident.

Before moving your chain

saw switch off the engine

and lock the chain using

the chain brake. Carry the

saw with the bar and

Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a

situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident.

chain pointing backwards.

Fit a guard to the bar

before carrying the saw

any distance.

Do not use the saw in bad weather, such as dense fog,

heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in cold

weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy

ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc.

Take great care when removing small branches and avoid

cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the

same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain

and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.

Never put a chain saw

down while the engine is

running unless you have it

in clear view and the

chain brake is on. Switch

the engine off before

leaving your chain saw for

any length of time.

English – 19

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the log will

split. The first is how the log is supported and the second is

whether it is in tension.

2 Basic cutting technique

General

• Always use full throttle when cutting!

In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in two

stages; from the top and from the bottom of the log. You need

to support the log so that it will not trap the chain or split during

cutting.

• Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the

engine for too long at full throttle without any load can lead to

serious engine damage).

• Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke.

• Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke.

If the chain jams in the cut:

STOP THE ENGINE! Don’t try to pull the saw

free. If you do you may damage the chain

when the saw suddenly breaks free. Use a

See the section on ”How to avoid kickback” to find out why

cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback.

lever to open up the cut and free the bar.

Terms:

Cutting

Limbing

General term for cutting through wood.

Cutting limbs off a felled tree.

The following instructions describe how to handle most types of

situation that you will be faced with when using a chain saw.

Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off

before the cut is complete.

Cutting

The log is lying on the

ground. There is little risk

of the chain jamming or

the log splitting. However

there is a risk that the

chain will touch the

ground when you finish

the cut.

There are five important factors you should consider

before making a cut:

Make sure the bar will not

jam in the cut.

Cut all the way through

the log from above. Try

not to touch the ground as

you finish the cut.

Maintain full throttle but

be prepared in case the

chain snatches.

Make sure the log will not

split.

A If it is possible to turn

the log you should stop

cutting about 2/3 of the

way through.

Make sure the chain will

not strike the ground or

any other object during or

after cutting.

B Turn the log and finish

the cut from the

opposite side.

Is there a risk of kick-

back?

Do the conditions and

surrounding terrain affect

your safety when

working?

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

2 The log is supported at one

end. There is a high risk

that it will split.

3 Tree felling technique

It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree.

Inexperienced users of chain saws should not

fell trees. NEVER ATTEMPT A TASK YOU ARE

UNSURE OF.

Safe distance

A Start by cutting from

below (about 1/3 of the

way through).

The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and

anyone else working nearby is at least 21/2 tree lengths.

Make sure that no-one else is in this “risk zone” before or during

felling.

B Finish by cutting from

above so that the two

cuts meet.

3 The log is supported at both

ends. There is a high risk

that the chain will jam.

Felling direction

The aim is to fell the tree in the best possible position for

subsequent limbing and cross-cutting. You want it to fall on

ground where you can move about safely.

The main point to avoid is

letting the tree fall onto

another tree. It can be both

difficult and dangerous to

remove a tree in such a

position (see point 4 in this

section).

A Start by cutting from

above (about 1/3 of the

way through).

Once you have decided which

way you want the tree to fall

you must judge which way the

tree would fall naturally.

B Finish by cutting from

below so that the two

cuts meet.

Several factors affect this:

Lean of the tree

Bend

Limbing

Wind direction

When limbing thick branches

you should use the same

approach as for cutting.

Cut difficult branches piece by

piece.

Arrangement of branches

Weight of snow

You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural

direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to make it

fall in the direction you first intended.

Another very important factor, which does not affect the felling

direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure the tree

has no damaged or dead branches that might break off and hit

you during felling.

During critical felling operations, hearing

protectors should be lifted immediately when

sawing is completed so that sounds and

warning signals can be heard.

English – 21

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

C Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat

FELLING CUT

The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it

must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree

and cut with the bottom edge of the bar.

Remove any branches that

are in the way. To do this it is

best to work from the top

down and keep the trunk

between you and the chain

saw. Never limb above

shoulder height.

Make the FELLING CUT

about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches)

above the flat section of the

DIRECTIONAL CUT.

Remove any undergrowth

from the base of the tree and

check the area for obstacles

(stones, branches, holes, etc.)

so that you have a clear path

of retreat when the tree starts

to fall. Your path of retreat

should be roughly 135

Set the spike bumper in

behind the breaking strip (if

one is fitted).Use full throttle

and bring the bar and chain

slowly into the tree. Make sure

the tree does not start to

move in the opposite direction

to your intended felling

direction. Drive a WEDGE or

BREAKING BAR into the cut

as soon as it is deep enough.

degrees behind the intended

felling direction.

D Felling

Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the

DIRECTIONAL CUTS, which consist of the TOP CUT and the

BOTTOM CUT; followed by the FELLING CUT. By placing

these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very

accurately.

Finish the FELLING CUT

parallel with the

DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE so

that the distance between

them is at least at least 1/10

of the trunk diameter. The

uncut section of the trunk is

called the BREAKING STRIP.

DIRECTIONAL CUT

To make the DIRECTIONAL

CUT you begin with the TOP

CUT. Stand to the right of the

tree and cut downwards at an

angle.

The BREAKING STRIP act as

hinges that control the felling

direction of the falling tree.

Next make the BOTTOM CUT

so that it finishes at the end of

the TOP CUT.

All control over the felling

direction is lost if the BREA-

KING STRIP is too narrow or

if the directional cut and felling

cut are badly placed.

The directional cut should run

1/4 of the diameter through

the trunk and the angle

between the TOP CUT and

BOTTOM CUT should be 45°.

When the felling cut and

directional cut are complete

the tree should start to fall

under its own weight or with

the aid of a FELLING WEDGE

or BREAKING BAR.

The line where the two cuts

meet is called the

DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE.

This line should be perfectly

horizontal and at right angles

(90°) to the chosen felling

direction.

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

We recommend that you use

a bar that is longer than the

diameter of the tree, so that

you can make the FELLING

CUT and DIRECTIONAL CUT

with single cutting stokes.

(See ”Technical data” to find

out which lengths of bar are

recommended for your saw).

4 Freeing a tree that has fallen badly = high

accident risk

Freeing a “Trapped tree”

The safest method is to use a winch.

Tractor-mounted

Portable

There are methods for felling

trees with a diameter larger

than the bar length. However

these methods involve a much

greater risk that the kickback

zone of the bar will come into

contact with the tree.

Cutting trees and branches that are in tension

Preparations:

a) Work out which way the tree or branch will move if released

and where the natural “BREAKING POINT” is (i.e. the place

it would break if it was bent even more).

UNLESS YOU HAVE SPECIAL TRAINING WE

ADVISE YOU NOT TO FELL TREES WITH A

DIAMETER LARGER THAN THE BAR LENGTH

OF YOUR SAW!

Limbing

MOST KICKBACK ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

DURING LIMBING!PAY CLOSE ATTENTION

TO THE POSITION OF THE KICKBACK ZONE

OF THE BAR WHEN YOU ARE LIMBING

BRANCHES THAT ARE IN TENSION!

b) Decide which is the SAFEST way to release the tension

and whether YOU are able to do it safely. In complicated

situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain

saw and use a winch.

Make sure there are no

obstacles in your way. Work

on the left side of the trunk.

Work close to the saw for

maximum control. If possible,

let the weight of the saw rest

on the trunk.

General advice:

a) Position yourself so that

you will be clear of the

tree or branch when it

springs free.

Keep the tree between you

and the saw as you move

along the trunk.

b) Make one or more cuts at

or near the BREAKING

POINT. Make as many

cuts of sufficient depth as

necessary to reduce the

tension and make the tree

or branch break at the

BREAKING POINT.

F Cutting the trunk into logs

See chapter ”General working instructions” point 2 ”Basic

cutting technique”.

Never cut straight

through a tree or branch

that is IS in tension!

English – 23

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WHAT IS WHAT?

What is what?

1. Cylinder cover.

15. Saw bar.

16. Bumper.

2. Front handle.

3. Front hand guard.

4. Starter cover.

5. Chain oil tank.

6. Starter handle.

17. Chain catcher. Catches chain if it jumps or breaks.

18. Clutch cover.

19. Right hand guard. Protects right hand if chain breaks or

jumps.

20. Throttle control.

7. Adjuster screw, carburettor.

21. Throttle lock. Prevents accidental operation of throttle

control.

8. Choke control/Start throttle lock.

9. Rear handle.

22. Decompression valve.

23. Combination spanner.

24. Chain tensioning screw.

25. Operator's manual.

10. Stop switch. Ignition on/off switch.

11. Fuel tank.

12. Muffler.

13. Bar tip sprocket.

14. Saw chain.

26. Bar guard.

28. Switch for heated handles (XPG).

24– English

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ASSEMBLY

Mounting guide bar and chain

Always wear gloves, when working with the

chain, in order to protect your hands from

injury.

Hold up the tip of the bar and

tighten the chain. The chain is

correctly tensioned when

there is no slack on the

underside of the bar, but it can

still be turned easily by hand.

Hold up the bar tip and tighten

the bar nuts with the

Check that the chain brake is

in disengaged position by

moving the front hand guard

towards the front handle.

combination wrench.

When fitting a new chain, the

chain tension has to be

checked frequently until the

chain is run-in. Check the

chain tension regularly. A

correctly tensioned chain

gives good cutting

Take off the bar nuts and

remove the clutch cover. Take

performance and long lifetime.

off the transportation ring (A).

Fitting a spike bumper

To fit a spike bumper –

contact your service agent.

Fit the bar over the bar bolts.

Place the bar in its rearmost

position. Place the chain over

the drive sprocket and in the

groove on the bar. Begin on

the top side of the bar. Make

sure that the edges on the

cutting links are facing forward

on the top side of the bar.

Fit the clutch cover and locate

the chain adjuster pin in the

hole on the bar. Check that

the drive links of the chain fit

correctly on the drive sprocket

and that the chain is in the

groove on the bar. Tighten the

bar nuts finger tight.

Tension the chain by using

the combination wrench. Turn

the chain adjuster screw

clockwise. The chain should

be tensioned until it fits snugly

on the underside of the bar.

English – 25

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FUEL HANDLING

Mixing

Fuelmix

• Always mix the petrol and

oil in a clean container

intended for fuel.

IMPORTANT! The chain saw is equipped with a two-stroke

engine and must always been run using a mixture of petrol and

two-stroke engine oil. It is important to accurately measure the

amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is

obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small

inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture.

• Always start by filling half

the amount of the petrol to

be used. Then add the

entire amount of oil. Mix

(shake) the fuel mixture.

Add the remaining amount

of petrol.

Always provide for good ventilation when

handling fuel.

• Mix (shake) the fuel mixture

thoroughly before filling the

saw’s fuel tank.

Petrol

• Use good quality unleaded

or leaded petrol.

• Do not mix more than

approx. 1 months supply of

fuel.

• The lowest octane

recommended is 90.

• If you run the engine on a

lower octane grade than 90

so-called, knocking can

occur. This gives rise to a

high engine temperature,

which can result in serious

engine damage.

• If the saw is not used for

some time the fuel tank

should be emptied and

cleaned.

• When working with

continuous high revs (e.g.

delimbing) a higher octane

grade is recommended.

Two-stroke oil

• For the best results use HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil, which is

especially developed for chain saws. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%).

• If HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil is not available, you may use

another two-stroke oil of good quality that is intended for air

cooled engines. Contact your dealer when selecting an oil.

Mixing ratio 1:33 (3%)-1:25 (4%).

Chain oil

• Never use two-stroke oil intended for water cooled outboard

motors, so-called, outboard oil.

• The chain lubrication

system is automatic. Always

use special chain oil with

good adhesive

• Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.

characteristics.

• In countries where no

special chain oil is available,

EP 90 transmission oil can

be used.

Gasolin

Benzin

Essence

Gasolina

Lit.

Oil • Öl

Huile • Aceite

Lit.

• Never use waste oil. This

results in damage to the oil

pump, the bar and the

chain.

2%(1:50) 3%(1:33) 4%(1:25)

0,10

0,20

0,30

0,40

0,15

0,30

0,45

0,60

0,20

0,40

0,60

0,80

• It is important to use oil of

the right viscosity according

to the air temperature.

fl. oz.

• In temperatures below 0^oC

(32^oF) some oils become

too viscous. This can

overload the oil pump and

result in damage to the oil

pump components.

gallon

2%(1:50) 3%(1:33) 4%(1:25)

2 1/2

6 1/2

12 7/8

3 3/4

9 3/4

19 1/4

5 1/8

12 7/8

25 3/4

2 1/2

• Contact your servicing

dealer when choosing chain

oil.

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FUEL HANDLING

Fuelling

Taking the following precautions, will lessen

the risk of fire.

• Do not smoke or place warm objects in the vicinity of

the fuel.

• Always shut off the engine before refuelling.

• Slowly open the fuel cap, when filling fuel, so that

possible overpressure is slowly released.

• Tighten the fuel cap carefully after fuelling.

• Always move the saw from the fuelling area before

starting.

Clean around the fuel cap.

Clean the fuel and chain oil

tanks regularly. The fuel filter

should be changed at least

once a year. Contamination in

the fuel tanks causes

malfunction. Make sure the

fuel is well mixed by shaking

the container before fuelling.

The volume of chain oil and

fuel tanks are adjusted to

each other. Therefore, always

Min 3 m

fill chain oil and fuel at the

same time.

(10ft)

English – 27

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START AND STOP

Start

Start and stop

Grip the front handle with your

left hand and hold the saw

down by putting your right foot

in the rear handle. Pull the

starter handle with your right

hand and pull out the starter

cord slowly until the starter

pawls engage. Then pull

sharply.

WARNING!

• Never start the saw engine without the bar, chain and

clutch cover (chain brake) assembled - or else the

clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries.

• Always move the saw away from the fueling area

before starting.

• Place the saw on clear ground and make sure that the

chain is not contacting anything. Also, make sure that

you have a secure footing.

• Keep people and animals well away from the working

area.

Push in the choke control

immediately when the engine

ignites and make repeated

starting attemps. When the

engine starts, rapidly give full

throttle. Then the throttle latch

will disengage.

Cold engine

CHAIN BRAKE:

Disengage the chain brake by

pulling the hand guard

towards the front handle.

CAUTION! Do not release the

starter handle from fully pulled

out position as this can cause

damage on the saw.

IGNITION:

Move the ignition switch to

startposition.

CHOKE:

Set the choke control in choke

position.

FAST IDLE:

Combined choke/fast idle is

received when the choke is

Stop

moved to choke position.

The engine is stopped by

switching off the ignition.

(Move the ignition switch to

stopposition.)

If the saw is fitted with a

decompression valve (A):

Press the valve to reduce the

pressure in the cylinder and

make starting easier. Always

use the decompression valve

when starting the saw. Once

the saw has started the valve

will automatically return to its

original setting.

Warm engine

Use the same procedure as

for starting cold engine but

without choke. Fast idle is

recived by first set the choke

control in choke position, and

then back again.

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MAINTENANCE

turn the jets one turn anti-clockwise. The carburettor is now

set to H = 1 and L = 1.

• Now start the saw according to the starting instructions and

run it warm for 10 minutes.

Carburettor

Functioning, Basic setting, Final setting

NOTE! If the chain rotates the T screw should be turned

anti-clockwise until the chain stops.

WARNING! Do not start the saw without the

bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake)

• Place the saw on a flat surface so that the bar points away

from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into

contact with the surface or other objects.

assembled. If you do, the clutch might come

loose and cause severe injuries.

Low speed needle L

Try to find the highest idling

speed, turning the low speed

needle L clockwise

+ 1/4

Operation

• The carburettor governs the engine speed via the throttle. Air/

fuel are mixed in the carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is

adjustable. To take advantage of the saw’s maximum output

the setting must be correct.

respectively counter-

clockwise. When the highest

speed has been found, turn

the low speed needle L 1/4

• Adjusting the carburettor means the engine is adapted to

local operating conditions, e.g. climate, altitude, petrol and

the type of 2-stroke oil used.

turn counter-clockwise.

NOTE! If the chain rotates in

the idling position, turn the idling speed screw counter-

clockwise until the chain stops.

• The carburettor has three

adjustment possibilities:

L = Low speed jet.

H = High speed jet.

T = Adjustment screw for

idling.

Final setting of the idling speed T

Adjust the idling speed with the screw T. If it is necessary to re-

adjust, first turn the idle speed adjusting screw T clockwise, until

the chain starts to rotate. Then turn, counter-clockwise until the

chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occurs when

the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be

good margin to the rpm when the chain starts to rotate.

• The fuel quantity required in relation to the air flow, provided

by opening the throttle, is adjusted by the L and H-jets. If they

are screwed clockwise the air/fuel ratio becomes leaner (less

fuel) and if they are turned anti-clockwise the ratio becomes

richer (more fuel). A leaner mixture gives a higher engine

speed and a richer mixture give a lower engine speed.

• The T screw regulates the idling speed. If the screw T is

turned clockwise this gives a higher idling speed; anti-

clockwise a lower idling speed.

Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed

setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain

stops. Do not use the saw until it has been

properly adjusted or repaired.

Basic setting and running in

High speed needle H

The high speed needle H

influences the power of the

saw. A too lean adjusted high

speed needle H (high speed

needle H closed too much)

gives overrevs and damages

the engine. Let the saw run at

full speed for about 10

The carburettor is adjusted to a basic setting when the saw is

tested at the factory.

254XP: The basic setting is: H = 1 ¹/₂turns respective

L = 1 ¹/ turns.

257:

The ba⁴sic setting is: H = 1 turns respective

L = 1 turns.

262XP: The basic setting is: H = 1 turns respective

L = 1 turns.

To provide the engine’s components with a good level of

lubrication (running in) the carburettor should be set for a

richer fuel mixture for the first 3-4 hours of operating. To

obtain this adjust the overspeed 6-700 rpm under the

recommended max. overspeed.

seconds. Thereafter, turn the

high speed needle H 1/4 turn

counter-clockwise.

Let the saw run again at full

speed for about 10 seconds and note the difference of the

enginesound. Repeat this procedure with the high speed needle

H turned 1/4 turn more counter-clockwise. The saw has now

been tested with the following settings: H=±0, H=+1/4, H=+1/2

from basic adjustment. At full speed the engine has produced a

different sound for each setting. The high speed needle H is

correctly set when the saw ”4-cycles” a little. If the saw ”whist-

les” the setting is too lean. If there is too much exhaust gas at

the same time as the saw ”4-cycles” much, the setting is too

rich. Turn the high speed needle H until the setting sounds

correct. NOTE! For optimum setting of the carburettor,

contact a qualified servicing dealer who has a revolution

counter at his disposal. The maximum speed

If you do not have the possibility to check the overspeed using a

tachometer the H-jet should not be set for a leaner mixture than

that stated for the basic setting.

The recommended overspeed should not be exceeded.

NOTE! If the chain rotates while idling the T screw should be

adjusted anti-clockwise until it stops.

Fine adjustment

• When the saw has been ”run-in” the carburettor should be

finely adjusted. The fine adjustment should be carried out

by qualified person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling

screw T and then the H-jet.

recommended must not be exceeded.

The following engine speed applies:

Max. overspeed

254XP: 13.800 rpm

257: 13.500 rpm

Idling speed

2.500 rpm

Correctly adjusted carburettor

A correctly adjusted carburettor means that the saw accelerates

without hesitation and the saw 4-cycles a little at max speed.

Furthermore, the chain must not rotate at idling. A too lean

adjusted low speed needle L may cause starting difficulties and

bad acceleration.

262XP: 13.500 rpm

Conditions

• Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be

clean and the cylinder cowling fitted. Adjusting the carburettor

while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture

when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious

engine damage.

A too lean adjusted high speed needle H gives lower

power=less capacity, bad acceleration and/or damage to the

engine.

A too rich adjustment of the two speed needles L and H gives

acceleration problems or too low working speed.

• Carefully turn the L and H-jets clockwise to the bottom. Now

English – 29

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MAINTENANCE

Tensioning the recoil spring

Starter device

• Lift the starter cord up in the

notch on the starter pulley

and turn the starter pulley 2

turns clockwise.

WARNING!

• When the recoil spring is assembled in the starter

housing, it is in tensioned position and can when

treated carelessly, pop out and cause injuries.

• Always be careful, when changing the recoil spring or

the starter cord. Always wear safety goggles for eye

protection.

NOTE! Check that the

starter pulley can be turned

at least half a turn, when the

starter cord is entirely pulled

out.

Changing a broken or worn

starter cord

Changing the broken recoil spring

• Lift the starter pulley. (See

”Changing a broken or worn

starter cord”). The recoil

spring is disassembled from

the starter device, with its

inside facing down. Tap the

starter lightly against a

• Loosen the screws, that

hold the starter device

against the crankcase and

remove the starter device.

working bench or similar.

• Put a new recoil spring in

the right position. If the

spring pops out when

assembling, it should be

mounted again, out and in

towards the centre.

• Pull out the cord approx. 30

cm and lift it up into the

notch in the pulley. Zero-set

the recoil spring by letting

the pulley rotate slowly

backwards. Undo the screw

in the centre of the pulley

and remove the pulley.

• Lubricate the recoil spring

with thin oil. Assemble the

starter pulley, and tension

the recoil spring.

• Insert and fasten a new

starter cord in the pulley.

Wind approx. 3 turns of the

starter cord on to the pulley.

Assemble the starter pulley

against the recoil spring, so

the end of the spring

engages to the pulley. Fit

the screw in the centre of

the pulley. Carry the starter

cord through the hole in the

starter housing and the

starter handle. Make a knot

on the starter cord.

Starter device assembly

• Assemble the starter

device, by pulling the starter

cord out first, then place the

starter against the

crankcase. Then slowly

release the starter cord so

that the pulley engages with

the pawls.

• Assemble and tighten the

screws, which hold the

starter.

30– English

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MAINTENANCE

Air filter

Muffler

The air filter must be regularly cleaned from dust and dirt in

order to avoid:

• Carburettor malfunctions

• Starting problems

• Engine power reduction

• Unnecessary wear on

the engine parts

254, 257

The muffler is designed in

order to reduce the noise level

and to direct the exhaust

gases away from the operator.

The exhaust gases are hot

and can contain sparks, which

may cause fire if directed

against dry and combustible

material. Some mufflers are

equipped with a special

screen. If your saw has this

type of muffler, you should

clean the screen at least once

a week. This is done with a

wire brush.

• Abnormal fuel consumption

Clean the air filter daily or

more often if the air is

exceptionally dusty in the

working area.

• Disassemble the air filter by

removing the cylinder cover

and unscrew the filter.

When reassembling, make

sure that the filter is tight

against the filter holder.

Clean the filter by brushing

or shaking it.

CAUTION! The screen must be replaced, if damaged. The saw

will be overheated, if the screen is clogged. This results in

damage on the cylinder and the piston. Never use a saw with a

clogged or defective muffler.

262

• A more thorough cleaning of

the filter is obtained by

washing it in water and

soap.

Adjustment of the oil pump

An air filter, which is used for

some time, cannot be cleaned

completely. Therefore it must

be replaced by a new one,

with regular intervals.

IMPORTANT! A damaged air

filter must always be

replaced.

The oil pump is adjustable.

Adjustments are made by

turning the screw using a

screwdriver or combination

spanner. The saw is supplied

from the factory set to 1 turn

open. Turning the screw

clockwise will reduce the oil

flow and turning the screw

anti-clockwise will increase

the oil flow.

WARNING! The engine must not be running

when making adjustments.

Spark plug

Recommended settings:

Bar 11"-15": 0-2 turns from the closed position.

Bar 15"-18": 2-3 turns from the closed position.

0,5 mm

The spark plug condition is

influenced by:

• An incorrect carburettor

setting.

• Wrong fuel mixture (too

much oil in the gasoline).

• A dirty air filter.

Needle bearing maintenance

The clutch drum is equipped

with one of the following chain

sprockets:

These factors cause deposits

on the spark plug electrodes,

which may result in

malfunction and starting

difficulties.

• Spur sprocket (A) (the chain

sprocket is welded on the

drum)

If the engine is low on

• Rim sprocket (B)

(exchangeable)

power, difficult to start or

runs poorly at idling speed,

always check the spark plug

first. If the spark plug is dirty,

clean it and check the electrode gap. Readjust if necessary.

The correct gap is 0.5 mm (.020"). The spark plug should be

replaced after about a month in operation or earlier if the

electrodes are badly eroded.

Both versions have built-in

needle bearing at the drive

shaft, whitch has to be

greased regularly (once a

week).

NOTE! Use only high quality

bearing grease.

IMPORTANT! Always use the recommended spark plug type.

An incorrect spark plug can severely damage the piston/

cylinder.

English – 31

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MAINTENANCE

Cooling system

Winter use

During winter time, powder snow and cold weather can cause

running problems, such as:

• Too low engine temperature.

• Icing on the air filter and carburettor.

To obtain the lowest possible running temperature the saw is

equipped with a cooling system.

Therefore some special measures are required:

• Partly reduce the air inlet of the starter and by doing that

increase the engine temperature.

The cooling system

consists of:

• Preheat the intake air to the carburettor by removing the

special plug between the cylinder and the carburettor space.

The cylinder cover is made so it can be changed for running in

cold weather. There is a possibility to make a hole in which,

during the warmer part of the year, should be sealed using a

plug.

1. Air intake on the starter

unit.

2. Air guide plate.

3. Fan blades on the

flywheel.

Temperature 0^oC (32^oF) or colder

254

4. Cooling fins on the

cylinder.

5. Cylinder cowling

(supplies cold air over

the cylinder).

Model 254: Turn the cover

lid so that the preheated air

from the cylinder can pass

into the carburettor area

preventing for instance icing

on the air filter.

Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more often

in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling system

results in the saw overheating which causes damage to

piston and cylinder.

Model 257, 262: Move the

cover from position A to

position B so that preheated

air can pass from the

cylinder to the carburettor

space and prevent forma-

tion of ice in the air filter.

NOTE! When the cover is

placed in the air nozzle it is

important that the air nozzle

seals hermetically to the

cylinder cover.

Centrifugal cleaning ”Air Injection”

Centrifugal cleaning means

the following:

All air to the carburettor is

carried through the starter.

Dirt and dust is centrifuged

away by the cooling fan.

IMPORTANT! In order to

keep the function of the

centrifugal cleaning, a

continous maintenance and

care must be made.

Temperature -5^oC (23^oF) or colder

257, 262

• Clean the air intake to the

starter, the fan wings of the

flywheel, the space around

the flywheel, inlet pipe and

carburettor space.

For running the saw in cold

weather or powder snow, a

special cover is available,

which is mounted on the

starter housing. This

reduces the air flow and

prevents large amounts of

snow from being sucked in.

IMPORTANT! If a special

winter kit is assembled or

measures are taken to

increase the engine

temperature, a readjustment

to normal setting has to be

done when the saw is used

under normal conditions.

Otherwise, there is a risk of

overheating, which can

cause severe engine

Heated handles

On the model XPG both the

front handle and the rear

handle are equipped with

electrical heating coils. These

are supplied with electricity

from a built-in generator in the

electrical system. The switch

for the heating coils is placed

to the right of the rear handle.

When the switch is pushed to

the right, the heat is switched

on. When it is pushed to the

left, the heat is switched off.

damage.

Model 257, 262: When the cover is mounted in position A, it

must be turned with the cut towards the air filter. To make a

proper centrifugal cleaning possible, the air nozzle must seal

hermetically to the crankcase and cylinder cover.

IMPORTANT! Any maintenance other than that described in

this manual must be carried out by your servicing dealer.

32– English

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MAINTENANCE

Below you will find some general maintenance instructions.

If you have more questions, contact your servicing dealer.

Weekly maintenance

1. Check that the AV

elements are not soft or

torn.

Daily maintenance

2. Lubricate the clutch drum

bearing.

1. Check the throttle trigger

for smooth operation. If

any binding occurs, or if

engine fails to return to

idle, the saw should be

3. File off burrs, if any, on

the sides of the bar.

taken to your dealer,

before it is used again.

Also, be sure that the

trigger cannot be pulled

until the throttle trigger

lockout is depressed.

4. Clean the spark plug and

check the gap.

0,5 mm

The correct gap is 0.5 mm

(.020 inch).

2. Clean the chain brake

5. Check the starter and the

recoil spring. Clean the

fins on the flywheel.

and check its function

according to the

instructions. Make sure

that the chain catcher is

undamaged. Otherwise

replace it immediately.

6. Clean the cooling fins on

the cylinder.

3. Clean or replace the air

filter as necessary. Check

for damage or holes.

7. Clean or change the

screen in the muffler.

4. The bar should be turned

daily for more even wear.

Check the lubrication hole

in the bar, to be sure it is

not clogged. Clean the

bar groove, if the bar has

a sprocket tip, this should

be lubricated.

8. Clean the carburettor

body and air box.

5. Check the function of the

oiler to be sure the bar

and chain receive proper

lubrication.

Monthly maintenance

1. Check the brake band on

the chain brake for wear.

6. Sharpen the chain and

check its tension and

condition. Check the drive

sprocket for wear.

2. Check the clutch centre,

clutch drum and clutch

spring for wear.

Replace if necessary.

7. Check the starter and

starter cord for wear or

damage. Clean the air

intake slots on the starter

housing.

3. Clean the outside of the

carburettor.

8. Check for any loose nuts

and screws and retighten

if necessary.

4. Check the fuel filter.

Change if necessary.

5. Flush the inside off the

fuel tank with gasoline.

9. Test the stop switch to be

sure it shuts off the

engine.

6. Flush the inside of the oil

tank with gasoline.

7. Check all cables and

connections.

English – 33

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TECHNICAL DATA

254XP 257

Engine

Noise levels

Cylinder volume, cu.in/cm³

Cylinder bore, inch/mm

Stroke, inch/mm

3,3/54

1,77/45

1,34/34

2.700

3,4/57

1,81/46

1,34/34

2.700

Equivalent (see note 1) noise

pressure level at operator’s

ear, measured according to

relevant international

Idle speed, rpm

100

108

99,5

109

Recommended max.

speed, unloaded, rpm

Power, kW

standards, dB(A).

13.800

2,9/9.300

13.800

2,7/9.000

Equivalent (see note) noise

power level, measured

according to relevant interna-

tional standards, dB(A).

Ignition system

Manufacture

Type of ignition system

Spark plug

Electrolux

Champion

RCJ 7Y

.012/0,5

Ducati

Champion

RCJ 7Y

.012/0,5

Vibration levels

(See note 2)

Front handle m/s²

Rear handle m/s²

3,5

5,8

3,0

4,9

Electrode gap, inch/mm

Fuel and lubrication

system

Manufacturer

Carburettor type

Fuel capacity, US pint/litre

Oil pump capacity at 8500 rpm,

ml/min

Oil capacity, US pint/litre

Type of oil pump

Weight

Chain/bar

Standard bar length,

inches/cm

Recommended bar lengths,

inches/cm

Usable cutting length

inches/cm

Walbro

HDA35B

1,2/0,6

Walbro

HDA120

1,2/0,6

15"/38

13"/33–20"/51

11-19"/

13"/33–20"/51

11-19"/

6,5-13,5

0,6/0,3

Automatic

6,5-13,5

0,6/0,3

Automatic

30-49

Chain speed at max.

power, m/sec

17,3

Without bar and chain, Lbs/kg

11,9/5,4

12,3/5,6

.325"/ 3/8

.058/1,5

.325"/ 3/8

.058/1,5

Pitch, inches

Thickness of drive link, inch/

Number of teeth on drive

sprocket

Bar and chain combinations

The following combinations are CE approved.

Bar

Chain

Length, Pitch,

Max.

inches

tip radius

Note 1: Equivalent noise level is, according to ISO 7182 and

ISO 9207, calculated as the time-weighted energy total for

noise levels under various working conditions with the following

time distribution: 1/3 idle, 1/3 full load, 1/3 full speed.

.325

10T

Husqvarna H25

Note 2: Equivalent vibration level is, according to ISO 7505,

calculated as the time-weighted energy total for vibration levels

under various working conditions with the following time

distribution: 1/3 idle, 1/3 full load, 1/3 full speed.

.325

10T

Husqvarna H21

3/8

11T

Husqvarna H42

Type

Inch

Inch/mm

3/16" /4,8

Degree°

30°

Degree°

10°

Inch/mm

Inch/cm: dl

H25

H21

.325"

.058"/1,5

85°

60°

.025"/0,65

13"/33:56 15/38:64

18/46:72

H42

3/8"

7/32" /5,5

25°

10°

.025"/0,65

18"/46:68

20/50:72

´*2t@¶6>¨

34– English

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TECHNICAL DATA

262XP

Engine

Noise levels

Cylinder volume, cu.in/cm³

Cylinder bore, inch/mm

Stroke, inch/mm

3,8/62

1,89/48

1,34/34

2.700

Equivalent (see note 1) noise

pressure level at operator’s

ear, measured according to

relevant international

Idle speed, rpm

100

109

Recommended max.

speed, unloaded, rpm

Power, kW

standards, dB(A).

13.500

3,4/9.600

Equivalent (see note) noise

power level, measured

according to relevant interna-

tional standards, dB(A).

Ignition system

Manufacture

Ducati

Vibration levels

(See note 2)

Type of ignition system

Spark plug

Champion

RCJ 7Y

.012/0,5

Front handle m/s²

Rear handle m/s²

3,3

5,4

Electrode gap, inch/mm

Fuel and lubrication

system

Manufacturer

Carburettor type

Fuel capacity, US pint/litre

Oil pump capacity at 8500 rpm,

ml/min

Oil capacity, US pint/litre

Type of oil pump

Weight

Chain/bar

Standard bar length,

inches/cm

Recommended bar lengths,

inches/cm

Usable cutting length

inches/cm

Walbro

HDA120

1,2/0,6

15"/38

13"/33–20"/51

11-19"/

30-49

6,5-13,5

0,6/0,3

Automatic

Chain speed at max.

power, m/sec

18,5

Without bar and chain, Lbs/kg

12,7/5,8

Pitch, inches

Thickness of drive link, inch/

Number of teeth on drive

sprocket

.325"/ 3/8

.058/1,5

Bar and chain combinations

The following combinations are CE approved.

Bar

Chain

Length, Pitch,

Max.

inches

tip radius

Note 1: Equivalent noise level is, according to ISO 7182 and

ISO 9207, calculated as the time-weighted energy total for

noise levels under various working conditions with the following

time distribution: 1/3 idle, 1/3 full load, 1/3 full speed.

.325

10T

Husqvarna H25

Note 2: Equivalent vibration level is, according to ISO 7505,

calculated as the time-weighted energy total for vibration levels

under various working conditions with the following time

distribution: 1/3 idle, 1/3 full load, 1/3 full speed.

.325

10T

Husqvarna H21

3/8

11T

Husqvarna H42

Type

Inch

Inch/mm

3/16" /4,8

Degree°

30°

Degree°

10°

Inch/mm

Inch/cm: dl

H25

H21

.325"

.058"/1,5

85°

60°

.025"/0,65

13"/33:56 15/38:64

18/46:72

H42

3/8"

7/32" /5,5

25°

10°

.025"/0,65

18"/46:68

20/50:72

English – 35

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