Century Stove 45398A User Manual

CENTURY E.P.A. WOOD STOVE MANUAL  
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION  
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED  
WOOD STOVE  
Verified and tested following  
ULC S627 and UL 1482 Standards  
by:  
STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC..  
1700, Leon-Harmel, Quebec City (Quebec), Canada G1N 4R9  
Tel : (418) 527-3060  
Fax : (418) 527-4311  
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE  
45398A  
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TABLE OF CONTENTS  
SECTION 1.0 INSTALLATION ................................................................................................................................................ 3  
1.1 GENERAL INSTALLATION .............................................................................................................................. 3  
1.2 POSITIONING THE STOVE............................................................................................................................... 3  
1.3 CLEARANCES ...................................................................................................................................................... 4  
1.3.1 Reduced clearances...................................................................................................................................... 5  
1.4 FLOOR PROTECTOR ......................................................................................................................................... 9  
SECTION 2.0 CHIMNEY (FLUE SYSTEM).......................................................................................................................... 10  
2.1 DEFINITIONS ..................................................................................................................................................... 10  
2.2 CHIMNEY............................................................................................................................................................ 10  
2.2.1 Step by step installation of your factory-built chimney ............................................................................. 12  
2.2.2 Typical installation through an existing masonry chimney........................................................................ 23  
2.3 CHIMNEY CONNECTOR ................................................................................................................................. 26  
2.4 DRAFT.................................................................................................................................................................. 28  
2.5 OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR......................................................................................................................... 28  
2.6 THE ADVANTAGE OF INSTALLING A BLOWER (FAN).......................................................................... 30  
SECTION 3.0 OPERATION..................................................................................................................................................... 31  
3.1 SAFETY INFORMATION ................................................................................................................................. 31  
3.2 FUEL..................................................................................................................................................................... 33  
3.2.1 The use of manufactured logs.................................................................................................................... 34  
3.2.2 Simple wood moisture test......................................................................................................................... 34  
3.3 NOTES ABOUT FIRST FIRING....................................................................................................................... 34  
3.4 LIGHTING A FIRE............................................................................................................................................. 35  
3.5 MAINTAINING THE FIRE ............................................................................................................................... 37  
3.6 FAN (BLOWER) OPERATION......................................................................................................................... 37  
SECTION 4.0 MAINTENANCE .............................................................................................................................................. 38  
4.1 CLEANING AND PAINTING YOUR STOVE................................................................................................. 38  
4.2 GLASS .................................................................................................................................................................. 38  
4.3 GASKETING ....................................................................................................................................................... 39  
4.4 ASH REMOVAL USING THE ASH DRAWER............................................................................................... 39  
4.5 CHIMNEY (FLUE) CLEANING ....................................................................................................................... 40  
CENTURY LIMITED 5-YEAR WARRANTY....................................................................................................................... 41  
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SECTION 1.0 INSTALLATION  
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the E.P.A Century wood stove is  
suitable for use as a freestanding wood stove in residential installations. The E.P.A Century wood  
stove is not intended for installation in a bedroom or a mobile home, except for the FW2470 model  
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment and  
the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code  
requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code and NFPA 211 Standard for  
Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances are to be followed in the absence of  
local code requirements.  
In addition to the national installation and/or local building codes, fire officials (or other authorities  
having jurisdiction) should be contacted to determine what restrictions and installation requirements  
might apply locally.  
1.1 GENERAL INSTALLATION  
CAUTION:  
MIXING OF APPLIANCE OR FLUE SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR MODIFYING THE  
DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE SUCH  
ACTION IS CONSIDERED, THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN THE FIRST INSTANCE.  
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM.  
CRACKED AND BROKEN COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS OR CERAMIC TILES, MAY RENDER THIS  
INSTALLATION UNSAFE.  
A SOURCE OF FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM OR SPACE HEATED SHALL BE PROVIDED WHEN REQUIRED.  
CONNECT THE STOVE ONLY TO A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY CONFORMING TO NATIONAL AND LOCAL  
BUILDING CODES FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL, OR TO A LISTED FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY SUITABLE FOR  
USE WITH SOLID FUEL.  
1.2 POSITIONING THE STOVE  
It is very important to position the wood stove in an area that will favour the most efficient heat  
distribution throughout the house. The stove should therefore be installed in the room where the  
most time is spent, and in the most spacious room possible. Recall that wood stoves produce  
radiating heat, the heat we feel when we are close to a wood stove. A wood stove also functions by  
convection, that is through the displacement of hot air accelerated upwards and its replacement with  
cooler air at the floor level. The stove’s convection effect is facilitated by the installation of a  
blower.  
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1.3 CLEARANCES  
Clearances to any combustibles when measured directly from the floor protector to the ceiling must  
be a minimum of 84" (2134 mm). Clearances to any combustibles when measured directly from the  
front of the stove must be a minimum of 48" (1219 mm). The stove must also be placed so as to  
maintain the minimum clearances to combustible walls specified for each type of connector used.  
See Table 1.3 below for all clearance measures. Refer to Figure 1.3 for a diagram of each of the  
measures A through C.  
Clearances to combustible materials  
MODELS  
HEIGHT (D)*  
S244  
15.5" (395mm) / 15.5" (395mm)  
17" (430mm) / 5.5" (140mm)  
15.5" (395mm) / 15.5" (395mm)  
18" (455mm) / 18" (455mm)  
10.5" (265mm) / 2.5 (65mm)  
17.5" (420mm) / 17.5" (420mm)  
10" (255mm) / 10" (255mm)  
10.5" (265mm) / 2.5 (65mm)  
11" (280mm) / 11" (280mm)  
56" (1.42m)  
54" (1.37m)  
54.5" (1.38m)  
54" (1.37m)  
FW2470  
FW2700  
FW3000  
15" (380mm) / 15" (380mm)  
26" (660mm) / 26" (660mm)  
12" (305mm) / 12" (305mm)  
*Height, from floor protection to ceiling  
You may decrease these clearances by installing heat radiation shields between the walls or the  
ceiling and the stove. These heat radiation shields must be installed permanently, and can  
include sheet metal, a rigid non-combustible sheet or a masonry wall. The installation standards  
of such heat radiation shields are listed on the following page.  
IT IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN TO PLACE WOOD WITHIN MINIMUM CLEARANCES  
TABLE 1.3 Clearances to combustible materials  
For mobile home installation  
Outside air kit with a listed double wall connector(CAN: ULC S641; USA: UL103) and  
listed compatible chimney system(CAN: ULC S629; USA: UL103HT)  
Use clearances from combustibles specified in the double wall connector installation.  
CAUTION: The structural integrity of the mobile home floor, wall and ceiling/roof must be  
maintained.  
FIGURE 1.3 Clearances to combustible materials  
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1.3.1 Reduced clearances  
You may decrease the clearances by installing heat radiation shields between the walls or  
the ceiling and the stove. These heat radiation shields must be installed permanently, and  
can include sheet metal, a rigid non-combustible sheet or a masonry wall.  
Clearances of not less than 1" (25 mm) and not more than 3" (76 mm) between the bottom  
of the shield and the floor and not less than 3" (76 mm) between the top of the shield and  
the ceiling must be respected to allow vertical air circulation behind the shield. The shield  
must extend 20" (500 mm) above the stove top and 18" (450mm) to each side of the stove  
(see Graphic 1).  
Following the installation of such a heat radiation shield, the clearances mentioned on the  
stove certification plate may be reduced as stated in the following table.  
Reducing Clearances With  
Shielding  
TYPE OF PROTECTION  
Top  
Sheet metal, a minimum of 0,024" (0,61mm) spaced out  
at least 1" (25mm) by non-combustible spacers (see  
graphic 2).  
50%  
33%  
Ceramic tiles, or an equivalent non-combustible material  
on fire-proof supports spaced out at least 1" (25 mm) by  
non-combustible spacers (see graphic 3).  
Ceramic tiles, or an equivalent non-combustible material  
on fire-proof supports with a minimum of 0,024" (0,61  
mm) sheet metal backing spaced out at least 1" (25 mm)  
by non-combustible spacers (see graphic 4)  
50%  
N/A  
Brick spaced out at least 1" (25 mm) by non-combustible  
spacers (see graphic 5)  
Brick with a minimum of 0,024" (0,61 mm) sheet metal  
backing spaced out at least 1" (25 mm) by non-  
combustible spacers (see graphic 6).  
67%  
N/A  
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Graphic 1  
A- Clearance to combustible material with no protection.  
B- 500 mm (20 po.) minimum;  
C- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
D- Between 25 mm (1 po.) and 75 mm (3 po.) ;  
E- 75 mm (3 po.) minimum;  
F- 450 mm (18 po.) minimum.  
1- Wall shielding ;  
2- Non-combustible spacers ;  
3- Ceiling shielding ;  
4- Combustible wall ;  
5- Ceiling;  
6- Heater (side view) ;  
7- Heater (top view).  
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Graphic 2  
A- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
1- Combustible wall ;  
2- Non-combustible spacer;  
3- 0.61 mm (0.024") sheet metal.  
Graphic 3  
A- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
1- Combustible wall;  
2- Non-combustible spacer;  
3- Fire-proof support;  
4- Ceramic tile or equivalent non-combustible material.  
_____________________________________________________________________________  
Graphic 4  
A- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
1- Combustible wall;  
2- Non-combustible spacer;  
3- 0.61 mm (0.024") sheet metal;  
4- Fire-proof support;  
5- Ceramic tile or equivalent non-combustible material.  
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Graphic 5  
A- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
1- Combustible wall;  
2- Non-combustible spacer;  
3- Brick.  
Graphic 6  
A- 25 mm (1 po.) minimum;  
1- Combustible wall;  
2- Non-combustible spacer;  
3- 0.61 mm (0.024") sheet metal;  
4- Brick.  
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1.4 FLOOR PROTECTOR  
If the stove is to be installed on top of a combustible floor, it must be guarded by a non-combustible  
material extending at least 18” (300mm) from the front and 8” (200mm) from the sides and the back  
of the firebox., as shown in Figure 1.4 below.  
Please note that a floor protection is required with the pedestal models for spark and ash shielding,  
but not for limiting floor temperatures from the radiant heat of the stove. The stove was designed and  
safety tested so that without any protection, the floor would not overheat.  
Please refer to local building codes for suitable floor protection materials.  
FRONT  
SIDES  
BACK  
18” (300 mm) 8” (200 mm)  
8” (200 mm)  
FIGURE 1.4 Floor protector  
WARNING: do not install in a sleeping room.  
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SECTION 2.0 CHIMNEY (FLUE SYSTEM)  
2.1 DEFINITIONS  
For clarity, the following definitions should be used with respect to these instructions:  
A chimney system consists of a connector off the top of the stove, and a chimney, which  
attaches to the connector and terminates outside the house.  
A chimney can be a masonry chimney (of masonry construction with an inside liner), or a  
factory built chimney.  
A factory built chimney can be a double wall chimney (two concentric pipes with insulation  
- sometimes referred to as an insulated solid pack) or an air cooled chimney (three  
concentric pipes, with insulation between the first and second pipes, and air between the  
second and third pipes).  
A single wall connector is a single pipe.  
A double wall connector has two concentric pipes, no insulation, and is an air cooled  
connector.  
2.2 CHIMNEY  
CAUTION:  
DO NOT fill any framed space around the factory-built chimney with insulation or any other  
material. Insulation placed in this area could cause adjacent combustibles to overheat.  
Do not use makeshift compromises during installation as they may be safety hazards, and a  
fire could result.  
Do not connect this unit to a chimney system serving another appliance.  
Do not cut rafters or ceiling joists without first consulting a building official to ensure  
structural integrity is not compromised.  
Your wood stove may be hooked up with a factory built or masonry chimney. If you are using a  
factory built chimney, it must comply with UL103 (USA) or ULCS629 (Canada) standards. It must  
therefore be a 6” (152mm) HT Type (2100°F) chimney. It is extremely important that it be installed  
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according to the manufacturer's specifications. The manufacturers’ installation instructions and  
specified clearances should always be followed in accordance with local and national installation  
codes. In Canada the CSA B365 and the CSA C22.1 installation codes are to be followed. In the  
USA the ANSI NFPA 70 and ANSI NFPA 211 installation codes are to be followed.  
If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the  
specifications of the Building Code. It must be lined with fire clay bricks, or clay tiles, sealed  
together with fire cement, or have a listed solid fuel burning stainless steel liner. Round chimneys  
are the most efficient.  
The interior diameter of the chimney should be identical to the stove's smoke exhaust. A chimney  
which is too small may cause draft problems, since it may not have the required volume to properly  
evacuate the quantity of smoke resulting from the combustion. A chimney whish is too large may  
also cause draft problems. In fact, a large chimney will be harder to warm-up and may not reach high  
enough temperatures to create a proper draft effect. Note that it is the chimney which creates the  
draft effect, not your stove. Your stove's performance is therefore directly dependent on an  
adequate draft from your chimney.  
The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:  
Do not connect your stove to a chimney serving another appliance.  
The chimney must rise above the roof at least 3' (0.9 mm) from the uppermost point of  
contact. See Figure 2.2.  
The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10' (3.04 m)  
distance by a height of at least 2' (0.6 m). See Figure 2.2.  
The minimum overall height of the chimney system, measured from the stove top to the  
exterior termination cap of the chimney should be at least 12' (3.66m). A chimney which is  
too short may lack the “tunnel effect” required to obtain a proper draft.  
Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. Chimneys  
constructed outside of the home on an exterior wall should be avoided if possible, especially  
in colder climates. The gas which circulates into an interior chimney will cool more slowly,  
thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of flue fires.  
All else being equal, cooler chimneys will have less draft than hotter ones. This problem will  
be amplified if the chimney is excessively long. A chimney which is excessively long may be  
very hard to warm-up due to its higher volume. A cool chimney may even down draft  
(reverse flow) due to the difficulty in heating it up to operating temperature while trying to  
evacuate the stack gases.  
If an exterior chimney is used, the best results will be obtained by using a connector  
vertically off the unit to the highest possible point before elbowing off horizontally to the  
exterior chimney. For efficiency and safety reasons the stove must not be installed with an  
insulated chimney connected directly to the appliance.  
Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to  
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insure that it is not obstructed, thus blocking the draft. It should be cleaned when necessary.  
FIGURE 2.2 Minimum Height of the Chimney  
2.2.1 Step by step installation of your factory-built chimney  
The way to install your chimney may vary from one chimney manufacturer to another. The instructions  
contained in this manual are based on the recommendations of chimney manufacturers whose products  
are sold at many North American retailers of wood stoves and related heating accessories.  
Wall support system  
If your chimney must rise along an outside wall, you need to connect it to your stove through an  
adjacent wall. For this type of installation, the following items are normally required :  
Chimney  
Suitable lengths of chimney (enough to go up to your roof)  
An adjustable wall support  
A wall thimble  
An adequate number of wall bands (one for every 8 feet of chimney, excluding the roof portion)  
A stove pipe adapter  
One insulated tee & plug  
A roof flashing kit (if necessary)  
A chimney cap.  
Roof guys (if required)  
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Stove pipe  
An adequate number of stove pipe sections.  
A 90o elbow  
Typical installation through the wall  
FIGURE 2.2.1 (A) Typical installation through the wall  
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1- Start by positioning your stove where you would like it to go, taking into account the minimum  
clearances to combustible material. You will then be able to determine where the chimney will  
pass through the wall. You will probably have to adjust the stove position slightly to ensure  
that your chimney will run between the studs. You can use a stud finder to locate the studs. Use  
a spoke saw or jig saw to cut a hole, remembering that you need to maintain a clearance of 2  
inches between the chimney and any combustible materials. For concrete walls, cut a hole  
slightly larger than the outer diameter of the chimney.  
2- Once the opening completed, you need to frame in the area to allow for the installation of a wall  
thimble. A wall thimble is not required for installations through concrete walls.  
3- You must first secure the wall thimble into the exterior wall surface. Then, do the same inside  
and fasten the trim plate.  
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4- Then, from outside the building, slide a short chimney length (attached to the tee) through the  
wall thimble. The chimney must extend at least 3 inches into the living space where it attaches  
to the stove pipe.  
5- You can now install the wall support. Simply slide the wall support up to the tee, ensuring that  
the adapter on the support engages with the female coupler on the bottom of the tee. When the  
wall support is level and properly positioned, you can use lag bolts to secure it into the wall  
studs. To complete the installation, install an insulated tee plug below the wall support.  
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6- You can start to add chimney sections. We recommend that you also use locking bands to  
secure all connections. You will need to secure the chimney to the house using wall bands.  
Wall bands wrap around the chimney and then attach to the wall. Install the first one 3 feet  
above the wall support. Then, you will need another band for each 8 feet of chimney. Note: if  
your chimney must be installed through your soffit, install a roof flashing above and  
finishing plate below where the roof is cut. Consult the following section called “CEILING  
SUPPORT SYSTEM” for more details.  
7- Authorities require that the chimney extend not less than 3 feet above the highest point where it  
passes through the roof of a building and not less than 2 feet above any portion of the building  
within 10 feet. If the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roof deck, roof guys with  
telescoping legs and draw bands are required.  
8- Finally, twist on your rain cap and you can head back inside.  
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9- You are now ready to connect your chimney to your stove. Simply install the inter-connecting  
stove pipe between the stove pipe adapter and the stove. You can follow the instructions in the  
following section (section 2.3) of this manual called « CHIMNEY CONNECTOR».  
Ceiling support system  
If your chimney must rise inside the house and go through the ceiling, you need to connect it to  
your stove at the ceiling level. For this type of installation, the following items are normally  
required :  
Chimney  
An adequate number of chimney sections (enough to go up to your roof)  
A ceiling support kit with stove pipe adapter  
An attic insulation shield  
A roof flashing kit  
A chimney cap  
Roof guys (if necessary)  
Stove pipe  
Suitable lengths of stove pipe  
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Typical installation through the ceiling  
FIGURE 2.2.1 (B) Typical Installation Through the Ceiling  
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1. Place your stove where you would like it located and use a plumb line to mark the ceiling  
directly above your stove flue. You will probably have to adjust this position slightly to ensure  
that your chimney will run between the joists. You can use a stud finder to locate the joists. You  
also need to take into account the minimum clearances to combustible materials. After you have  
determined where the chimney will go through the ceiling, use a spoke saw or power jig saw to  
cut a hole, remembering that you need a minimum 2-inch clearance between the chimney and  
any combustible materials. Depending on whether you have a one or two story structure, you  
will need to cut a matching hole through the floor of the attic or second floor living space.  
2. Before you install the ceiling support, you need to frame the area.  
3. To install the ceiling support, just slide the assembly into the framed opening from below.  
Once you ensure that the finishing plate is flush with the underside of the ceiling and assembly  
is level, secure it with screws.  
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4. Once the support is secure, you can begin to assemble the chimney by lowering the first section  
into the support. Make sure that the male coupler is pointing upwards, as indicated by the  
arrow on the chimney label.  
5. Then, from beneath the support, insert the stove pipe adapter and twist-lock it into place.  
6. Now, you can add additional chimney sections. Continue adding chimney lengths until a height  
of about 2 feet below the next ceiling level. An attic insulation shield must be installed where a  
chimney passes from a lower living space into an upper living space or attic space. It is  
designed to keep insulation materials away from the chimney. A second attic insulation shield  
must be installed if your chimney passes from a lower living space into an upper living space.  
As wee, you must enclose all sections of the chimney where is passes through a living space.  
Elbows (15o or 30o) are used when you need to offset your chimney to clear an obstruction or to  
avoid having to cut joists.  
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7. Once you have cut through your roof and framed the joists, it is time to work outdoors.  
Authorities require that the chimney extend not less than 3 feet above the highest point where it  
passes through the roof of a building and not less that 2 feet above any portion of the building  
within 10 feet. You will need to install a roof flashing. The roof flashing slides over your  
chimney pipe and goes under your shingles. Once you have done that, check that everything is  
plumb, and nail the flashing into the roof deck. Seal the joint between the shingles and the plate  
with silicone.  
8. Next, slide the storm collar down the chimney until it contacts the flashing. Tighten the nut and  
bolt and seal the collar to the chimney with a waterproof, non-combustible silicone sealant.  
Finally, twist on your rain cap and you can head back inside. If the chimney extends more than  
5 feet above the roof deck, roof guys with telescoping legs and draw bands are required.  
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9. You are now ready to connect your chimney to your stove. Simply install the inter-connecting  
stove pipe between the stove pipe adapter and the stove. You can follow the instructions in the  
following section (section 2.3) of this manual called « CHIMNEY CONNECTOR».  
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2.2.2 Typical installation through an existing masonry chimney  
You can also install your stove using your existing masonry chimney. To do so, follow the  
guidelines below. You may want to use a factory-built thimble, on construct your own brick thimble.  
If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the  
specifications of the Building Code in your region. It must normally be lined with fire clay bricks,  
metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. (Round flues are the most efficient).  
FIGURE 2.2.2 (A) Typical Installation Through an Existing Masonry  
Chimney  
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FIGURE 2.2.2 (B) Factory Built Thimble  
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FIGURE 2.2.2 (C) Brick Thimble  
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2.3 CHIMNEY CONNECTOR  
Your chimney connector (commonly called stove pipe) and chimney must have the same  
diameter as the stove’s exhaust outlet. The stove pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll  
steel with a minimum 24-gauge thickness (0.021" or 0.53 mm). It is strictly forbidden to use  
galvanized steel.  
The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney connector:  
Your chimney connector should be assembled in such a way that the male end (crimped)  
faces down to prevent creosote dripping outside the joints. Attach each of the sections to one  
another with three equidistant metal screws. Also use three equidistant metal screws to  
attach the connector to the stove’s exhaust collar. See Figure 2.3 (A) and Figure 2.3 (B).  
The pipe must be short and straight. All sections installed horizontally must slope at least ¼  
inch per foot, with the upper end of the section toward the chimney. See Figure 2.3 (B).  
To insure a good draft, the total horizontal length of the connector should never exceed 8' to  
10' (2.4 to 3.04 m). In the case of vertical installation, the total length of the connector can  
be much longer and connected without problem to the chimney at the ceiling level.  
There should never be more than two 90 degrees elbows in the whole connector and chimney  
system. Never start with a 90o elbow. Always go up vertically for at least 2 feet from the flue  
spigot before using a 90o elbow.  
The connector must not pass through any combustible material, nor may it pass through a  
concealed space (such as an attic, roof space, or closet). If passing through a wall, ceiling, or  
into a masonry chimney, use either chimney components listed for that specific use, or means  
acceptable to local authorities having jurisdiction over the installation.  
Installation of a "barometric draft stabiliser" (fireplace register) on a connector is not  
recommended.  
Furthermore, installation of a draft damper is prohibited. Indeed, with a controlled  
combustion wood stove, the draft is regulated upon intake of the combustion air in the stove  
and not at the exhaust.  
FIGURE 2.3 (A) Connecting Sections  
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FIGURE 2.3 (B) Minimum Slope  
We recommend that you use  
two 45 degree elbows instead  
Avoid 90 degree eblows  
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2.4 DRAFT  
Your E.P.A Century stove’s performance will be optimised if it is installed with a chimney (flue)  
system that provides an adequate draft. The draft is the force that moves air from the appliance up  
through the chimney and is predominantly affected by the height and diameter of the chimney, as  
well as the stack temperatures of the stove. If you test the draft using a pressure gauge, the reading  
should be between .05 - .07 inches of water column (w.c.) at a medium-high fire. A draft measure of  
less than .03" w.c. will cause operational difficulties while too much draft (greater than .10" w.c.)  
will result in over-firing of the stove. This can result in excessive operating temperatures. If this is  
the case, a manual damper may be installed in the vertical chimney connector to help reduce  
excessive draft.  
2.5 OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR  
It is recommended to install 3’’ (76mm) outside air intake in the room where the stove is located or  
nearby.  
The following are signs that a fresh air kit may be required:  
Your stove does not draw steadily, smoke rollouts occur, wood burns poorly, or back-draft  
occurs whether or not there is combustion present.  
Existing fuel-fired equipment in the house, such as fireplaces or other heating appliances,  
smell, do not operate properly, suffer smoke rollouts when opened, or back-draft occurs  
whether or not there is combustion present.  
Opening a window slightly on a calm (windless) day alleviates any of the above symptoms.  
The house is equipped with a well-sealed vapour barrier and tight fitting windows and/or has  
any powered devices that exhaust house air.  
There is excessive condensation on windows in the winter.  
A ventilation system is installed in the house.  
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In order to prepare your stove for the connection to a fresh air kit, please follow the following steps.  
(only available with FW2470 model)  
1- Remove the back pedestal shield. Using pliers, remove ring (A) as shown below. Ring (A)  
is a small piece of metal held by micro joints located inside the 3” (76mm) spigot on the  
middle of the back pedestal shield.  
2- Put the back pedestal shield in place using the 4 screws.  
3- Connect a flexible insulated pipe to the 3” (76mm) spigot on the back pedestal shield. Secure  
the pipe using pipe clamps. The complete fresh air kit is available at your Century dealer.  
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2.6 THE ADVANTAGE OF INSTALLING A BLOWER (FAN)  
A blower can be installed at the back of your E.P.A Century stove. This option is necessary if you  
wish to redistribute into a room the heat trapped at the back of your stove. By forcing hot air toward  
the front, the blower enables you to extend the radiation and convection power of your stove. You  
can purchase this option through your E.P.A Century dealer. Make sure you specify the correct part  
number: AC02050. Installation instructions are supplied with the blower.  
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SECTION 3.0 OPERATION  
Keep these instructions for future reference.  
WARNING:  
ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE  
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED AS BREACHING CSA B365 (CANADA), AND ANSI NFPA  
211 (USA).  
NEVER MODIFY THE AIR INTAKE CONTROL.  
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.  
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE WHEN IT IS  
OPERATING.  
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.  
OPEN AIR CONTROL (AND DAMPER WHEN FITTED) BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.  
THIS STOVE IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE DOOR MAY BE OPEN ONLY  
DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES. NEVER LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS  
OPEN.  
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY  
CAUSE SKIN BURNS. WEAR GLOVES TO OPERATE YOUR STOVE.  
CAUTION  
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH  
THESE INSTRUCTIONS.  
THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS A FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.  
3.1 SAFETY INFORMATION  
These stoves are designed for safe operation WHEN BURNING WOOD ONLY. Altering or  
modifying the unit or installation without proper authorisation will void the certification,  
warranty, and safety listing, and may result in a safety hazard.  
For safety reasons, never leave the unit unattended with the door open or ajar. An open door,  
and especially a door partially open or cracked, if left for longer than required for good  
ignition can potentially result in unsafe chimney temperatures, and if left unattended, in hot  
embers or ignited fuel falling out of the unit. Prolonged door open operation is not necessary  
provided the unit has been properly installed and dry kindling is used to start the fire.  
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Do not abuse the unit, either by over firing or by using wood or combustibles with salt  
content, or harmful chemicals. Misuse is not covered by warranty.  
Even though your E.P.A Century has been specifically designed and tested to prevent smoke  
spillage, always open the door slowly as this will minimise the likelihood of smoke spillage  
or a back draft of flame or smoke into the room.  
Never use gasoline type lantern fuel, kerosene, solvents, charcoal lighter fluid, or  
inflammable liquids to start or "refresh" a fire in the stove. Keep all such liquids well away  
from the stove while it is in use.  
All stove surfaces become very hot during operation. Care is needed, especially with  
children, to avoid contact with those surfaces.  
Do not elevate the fire by means of grates.  
CAUTION: DO NOT OVER FIRE THIS HEATER. Do not burn fuel in the stove at a rate higher than  
that which will cause the ember bed level to exceed half the door opening height. We  
strongly recommend that you purchase a chimney (flue) thermometer. There are two types  
of thermometers: probe thermometers and magnetic thermometers (the later is also called  
“stove top thermometer”). If you are using a probe thermometer, make sure that the  
temperature does not exceed 900oF (482oC). If you are using a magnetic thermometer, make  
sure that the temperature does not exceed 475oF (246oC). If the door handle of the stove  
becomes excessively hot to the touch, consider this to be an indication of over firing. Over  
firing can result in a safety hazard and can permanently damage the stove and chimney. This  
damage is not covered by the warranty.  
Although the ceramic glass is extremely durable under any normal use, a few precautions are  
required. Do not attempt to push logs further into the fire by using the door, as the glass may  
break if any solid object heavily contacts it.  
Never operate the stove with the door open, or cracked slightly open, except briefly during  
the lighting operation, and during refuelling. Leaving the door open continuously could  
seriously overheat the chimney and adjacent combustibles. Do not operate the stove if there  
is an abnormal air leakage into the stove, such as through deteriorated gaskets or cracked or  
broken glass. Do not operate the stove without a door gasket. Leakage can result in  
overheating, or in very airtight homes, could possibly cause smoking into the room. Smoke  
may contain carbon monoxide, which is poisonous, and in sufficient quantities, is a health  
hazard.  
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3.2 FUEL  
Fuel for the stove must not be stored closer than the required clearances to combustibles (heat  
sensitive materials). NEVER STORE WOOD IN THE ASH PAN COMPARTMENT.  
Your E.P.A Century stove is designed to burn WOOD ONLY. Do not burn coal, charcoal, or trash in  
the unit. Highly flammable items such as trash may ignite creosote in the chimney (flue), resulting in  
a chimney fire. Never burn salt wood, beach wood, chemically treated wood, or wood removed from  
salt water, since the deposits left will deteriorate the firebox. Damage caused by chemicals or salt is  
not covered under warranty.  
Seasoned cord wood is recommended. Wood should be air dried in a covered and ventilated area for  
a minimum of six months (one year or more is recommended). This reduces the moisture content of  
the wood, resulting in a better stove performance. Wood species with moisture content of 20% or  
less are ideal. Dry, seasoned cord wood, can be distinguished from green wood by the cracks at each  
end of the logs. Wet or green wood will tend to cause the fire to smoulder, producing large amounts  
of creosote. Creosote buildup could result in a chimney fire. This wood will also prove difficult to  
keep burning properly, and fires will tend to go out. Green wood produces very little heat, and  
sometimes causes customers to think that the stove does not work.  
Decayed wood or low-density wood has very little energy content or heating value, and will not burn  
satisfactorily for long periods of time. An example of the energy values of some common wood fuels  
found un North America is given in the following table:  
Energy yield  
(millions of BTU/cord)  
29  
28  
26  
25  
24  
23  
23  
23  
23  
22  
18  
17  
17  
17  
17  
16  
13  
High energy yield  
Medium energy yield  
Low energy yield  
Fir  
Data provided by Energy, Mines and Resources – Canada  
TABLE 3.2 Energy yield for wood species  
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3.2.1 The use of manufactured logs  
There are numerous types of manufactured logs sold on the market. You must be very careful with  
this type of product. Many brands of manufactured logs contain chemical additives. DO NOT  
BURN ANY MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING CHEMICAL ADDITIVES. If you do, you  
may damage your stove and void the warranty. Logs containing chemical additives burn a lot hotter  
and were designed for decorative fireplaces. Decorative fireplaces generally have larger, cooler, and  
less air-tight fireboxes. Your E.P.A Century stove, on the other hand, has a smaller, completely  
sealed firebox which attains much higher temperatures. It is therefore not designed to support  
excessive heat caused by the addition of chemicals in manufactured logs. Manufactured logs made  
of 100% wood residues do not cause any threat to your stove. You must however be careful.  
Manufactured logs typically release a much larger heat output over a short period of time. Therefore,  
you cannot place a large quantity of such logs into your stove, like you would with regular cord  
wood. Start with one log, and gradually increase the load to 2 or 3 logs and see how your stove  
reacts. Use a chimney (flue) thermometer and make sure that temperatures remain within the normal  
operating range.  
3.2.2 Simple wood moisture test  
Add one large piece of wood to the top of an established fire. If it starts to burn on three sides within  
one minute, it is dry and seasoned and right for burning. If it turns black and starts to burn in about  
three minutes or more, it is damp. If it turns black and does not start burning until five minutes or  
more, it is green and wet. If it hisses at any time, the wood is soaked and will not burn until the  
excess of moisture is boiled away.  
3.3 NOTES ABOUT FIRST FIRING  
The fresh paint on your stove needs to be cured to preserve its quality. Once the fuel load is properly  
ignited, only burn small fires in your stove for the first four hours of operation. Never open the air  
control more than necessary to achieve a medium burn rate. Make sure that there is enough air  
circulation while curing the stove. Open one or more windows. The odours can be smelled during  
the 3 or 4 first fires. Never start your stove outside.  
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3.4 LIGHTING A FIRE  
Place enough crumpled balls of newspaper or other paper into the stove to cover the bottom  
of the firebox.  
Place small and dry kindling on the crumpled paper.  
Place larger and dry kindling on top of the small kindling.  
Open the air intake control fully (see figures on next page).  
Light a fire at the bottom of the crumpled paper and close the door. If the fire tends to go out  
momentarily, hold the door slightly ajar to activate the fire. As soon as the fire catches hold,  
close the door.  
Ideally the large kindling should be burned until a thick bed of red embers is obtained. At  
that point, add cord wood fuel and continue to operate the draft control wide open until the  
fire is well established. Once the firebox is hot, the air control can be partially closed. After  
30 minutes to one hour, you can close the air control completely. In order to have the best  
indication of when you should close the air control completely to operate your stove the  
most efficiently, use a chimney (flue) thermometer. If you are using a probe thermometer,  
you can close the air control completely when the temperature on the thermometer reaches  
900oF (482oC). If you are using a magnetic thermometer , you can close the air control  
completely when the temperature on the thermometer reaches 475oF (246oC). Closing the air  
control down too soon will lower combustion efficiency and may cause the fire to die out.  
Over a period of time, it may also result in creosote build-up in the chimney (which could  
lead a chimney fire).  
Increase air  
Decrease air  
Air control adjustment for models S244, FW2700 & FW3000  
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Increase air  
Decrease air  
Air control adjustment for model FW2470  
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3.5 MAINTAINING THE FIRE  
Once the wood has been consumed (or partially consumed) and you have obtained a good bed of  
embers, you should reload the unit. In order to do so, open the air control to its maximum for  
approximately 15 seconds prior to opening the stove door. Then, proceed by opening the door very  
slowly. Open it by 2” to 4” (52 to 104 mm) for 10 to 15 seconds before opening it completely. This  
procedure will increase the draft and thus eliminate the smoke which is stagnant in a state of slow  
combustion in the stove. Then, bring the red embers to the front of the stove and reload the unit.  
Depending on the type of wood you burn and the strength of the draft in your flue, you may  
have to leave the air control open to its maximum for more than 15 seconds to avoid smoke  
spillage before you reload the stove.  
Your E.P.A Century stove will work best if a thick bed of hot embers is maintained in the bottom of  
the firebox, and a minimum of two large pieces of seasoned fuel are added. Combustion efficiency is  
largely related to establishing a hot ember bed, and hot firebox temperatures. The quicker the stove  
and chimney (flue) get up to normal operating temperatures, the better. A small intense fire is  
preferred to a large smouldering fire, both to improve combustion efficiency and to reduce the  
amount of creosote build-up. The best performance will be obtained by adding relatively small  
amounts of fuel to a well established ember bed, and then operating with the air inlet control open  
long enough to achieve a hot fire. The wood should be placed with air in between individual pieces.  
Use a poker to make an air channel in the embers below the wood. This will allow air to flow under  
the wood for a more efficient burn.  
3.6 FAN (BLOWER) OPERATION  
If you have purchased and installed and optional fan (blower), allow the stove to reach operating  
temperature (approximately one hour), before turning on the fan. The increased airflow from the fan  
will cool the firebox and affect the start-up combustion efficiency if the fan is turned on too quick.  
CAUTION: ENSURE THAT THE FANS POWER CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY SURFACE OF THE TTOVE  
TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN THE POWER CORD BENEATH THE STOVE.  
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SECTION 4.0 MAINTENANCE  
4.1 CLEANING AND PAINTING YOUR STOVE  
Clean the stove frequently so that soot, ash, and creosote do not accumulate. Do not attempt  
to clean the stove when the unit is hot. Special care must be taken with gold plated surfaces  
in order to maintain the finish at its original brilliance. Do not use an abrasive cleaner which  
will scratch the paint or plated finish. Use only a soft and clean damp cloth.  
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, it is possible to give your wood stove a brand  
new look, by repainting it with a 650oC heat resistant paint. For this purpose, simply scrub  
the surface to be repainted with fine sand paper, clean it properly, and apply thin coats (2) of  
paint successively. To retrieve the original finish, use the paint supplied by the manufacturer.  
4.2 GLASS  
Inspect the glass regularly in order to detect any cracks. If you spot one, turn the stove off  
immediately. Do not use the stove if the glass is broken.  
Do not close the glass door by sticking or slamming shot. Do not use the stove if the glass is  
broken.  
If the glass on your stove breaks, replace only with a ROBAX® glass 5mm thick supplied by your  
E.P.A Century dealer. Never use a substitute material.  
To replace the glass, remove the screws retaining the glass retainers inside the door. Remove the  
mouldings and replace the damaged piece with a new one. Perform the procedure backwards  
after replacing. When replacing the glass, you should change the glass gasket to make sure you  
keep it sealed.  
Never wash the glass with a product that may scratch it. Use a specialized product, available in  
the stores where wood stoves are sold. Only wash when the stove is cold.  
Under normal operating conditions, the glass is designed to stay clean. Glass cleaning may be  
required when burning damp wood. Furthermore, small creosote or soot accumulation may occur  
in the lower end corners of the glass when burning the stove with the air control at the minimum  
setting. This is normal. The glass will clean itself when burning a hot fire during one hour or  
more with the air control at its maximum setting. Nevertheless, cleaning the glass on a regular  
basis is recommended to prevent thicker creosote or soot accumulation that can be very hard to  
remove.  
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4.3 GASKETING  
It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which makes your stove door air tight) once a  
year, in order to insure good control over the combustion, maximum efficiency and security. To  
change the door gasket, simply remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the gasket groove, apply a  
high temperature silicone sold for this purpose, and install the new gasket. Use only the genuine  
Century gasket. You may light up your stove again approximately 24 hours after having completed  
this operation.  
4.4 ASH REMOVAL USING THE ASH DRAWER  
CAUTION: ASHES CAN START FIRES, EVEN AFTER SEVERAL DAYS OF INACTIVITY. NEVER DISPOSE OF ASHES  
IN A COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER. REMOVE ASHES WHEN THE STOVE AND ASHES ARE COLD.  
Whenever the ashes get 3 – 4” (76 – 102 mm) deep in the firebox, they should be emptied into the  
ash drawer, using the following instructions:  
Make sure the fire is out, and the stove is cold.  
Lift the ash dump plug in the center of the firebox by hooking the poker through the loop  
on the cover and lifting up.  
Push the ashes through the hole and leave an ash bed of approximately 1” deep on the  
firebox bottom to help maintain a hot ember bed.  
Clear the ashes from the area where the ash dump plug normally sits so that it will  
properly seat against the opening edges. Tap it down with your poker to ensure proper  
seating.  
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tightly fitting lid. This closed container  
should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away from all  
combustible (heat sensitive) materials, pending final disposal.  
Cover the ash dump plug with the remaining ashes and continue operation of your stove as  
usual.  
If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be  
retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Do not place other  
waste materials in the metal ash container.  
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If bright embers are glowing above the ash dump cap during a low or medium fire, air may be  
leaking past the ash plug. If this is happening, a possible over fire hazard exists. The stove  
should be shut down and allowed to cool. Properly seal the ash dump cap.  
4.5 CHIMNEY (FLUE) CLEANING  
Regular chimney (flue) maintenance, as well as good burning practices, are required to prevent  
chimney fires. When wood (especially green wood) is burned without adequate heat or air supply, it  
produces tar and other organic vapours (smoke), which combine with expelled moisture to form  
creosote. The creosote vapours condense in the relatively cool chimney of a slow-burning fire. As a  
result, creosote residues accumulate on the chimney. When ignited, this creosote makes an  
extremely hot fire which could be hazardous. Your E.P.A Century stove has been designed to reduce  
the amount of creosote produced. Even so, the chimney and any chimney connector should be  
inspected at least once every two months during the heating season to determine if a creosote  
build-up has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a  
chimney fire. Call a professional chimney sweep, or go to your local E.P.A Century dealer, purchase  
a chimney brush, and have the chimney cleaned. The chimney and chimney connector must be in  
good condition and kept clean.  
Contact your local, municipal, state, or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a  
chimney fire before there is any chance that it may happen.  
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CENTURY LIMITED 5-YEAR WARRANTY  
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original consumer purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty  
covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory. Proof of  
purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to your  
CENTURY dealer.  
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation, lack  
of maintenance, over firing, negligence, accident during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, or venting  
problems are not covered by this warranty.  
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, warping, or discoloration caused by over firing, abrasives or chemical  
cleaners. Any defect or damage caused by the use of unauthorized parts or others than original parts void this warranty. An  
authorized qualified technician must perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product  
and all local and national building codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not covered by this warranty.  
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the claim.  
Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. If a product is found to be defective, the  
manufacturer will repair or replace such defect. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the purchaser will be paid by  
the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified  
technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer  
are based on predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the wholesale price of the replacement part. All parts and  
labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.  
The manufacturer at its discretion may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of the  
defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by refunding the  
wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall in no event be responsible for any special,  
indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the product.  
WARRANTY APPLICATION  
DESCRIPTION  
LABOUR  
Combustion chamber (welds only) and castings.  
3 years  
Stainless steel firebox components, secondary air tubes*, surrounds and heat  
shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions),  
plating* (defective manufacture), and convector air-mate.  
2 years  
Carbon steel firebox components, glass retainers, handle assembly, C-Cast  
baffle*, and vermiculite baffle*.  
n/a  
1 year  
1 year  
n/a  
Standard blowers, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls.  
Optional blowers, ceramic glass (thermal breakage only*), paint (peeling),  
gaskets, insulation, and ceramic fibre blankets.  
Firebrick  
n/a  
*Pictures required  
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your CENTURY dealer. Prior to your call make  
sure you have the following information necessary to your warranty claim treatment:  
Your name, address and telephone number;  
Bill of sale and dealer’s name;  
Serial number and model name as indicated on the  
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;  
Nature of the defect and any relevant information.  
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain from your CENTURY dealer an  
Authorization Number. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused automatically  
and returned to sender.  
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