KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
SEWING BASICS
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Computerized Sewing Machine
Operation Manual
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position when making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision. (For Australia and New Zealand only)
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:
Blue
Neutral
Live
Brown
As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or coloured black or blue.
The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or coloured red or brown.
1
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-
up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
•
•
•
•
•
Operation is completed
Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
A power failure occurs during use
Maintaining the machine
Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or
store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
2
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CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................5
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6
Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7
Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9
Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9
Power supply .................................................................................................................................................... 9
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 10
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................11
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 14
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 16
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 19
REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................20
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 20
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 20
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 21
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 21
Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 23
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................24
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 24
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 25
2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................26
SEWING ............................................................................................................................26
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 26
Selecting stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 27
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 28
Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 29
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................30
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 30
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 30
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 30
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 30
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 31
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 31
Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 31
3
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................32
OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................32
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................33
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 33
BLIND HEM STITCHING ..................................................................................................34
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................35
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 38
ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................40
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................41
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 41
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 41
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................42
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 42
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 43
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 43
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 44
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 45
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................46
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 46
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 46
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................48
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 49
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 49
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 50
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 50
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 51
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 51
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................52
STITCH SETTINGS .............................................................................................................52
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 52
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................57
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 57
Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 57
TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................59
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................62
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 62
INDEX ...............................................................................................................................63
4
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1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
1
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The main parts
a Bobbin winder (page 11)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
j Operation panel (page 7)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various
settings.
b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16)
k Handwheel
This holds the spool of thread.
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
c Hole for extra spool pin (page 23)
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two
needles.
l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
on and off.
d Upper tension-control dial (page 29)
m Jack/socket connector (page 9)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/
socket connector.
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
e Thread guide (pages 11 and 16)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin
n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10)
and then threading the machine.
Plug in the foot controller plug.
f Thread take-up lever (page 17)
o Feed dog position lever (pages 38 and 45)
Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
g Thread cutter (page 29)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
p Presser foot lever (page 16)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(pages 7 and 31)
q Foot controller (page 10)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
i Operation buttons (page 6)
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing
machine model.
5
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Needle and presser foot section
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot holder in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
f Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-
set bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
h Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
i Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
a Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
j Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle
k Needle clamp screw
threader) (page 17)
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
a Presser foot lever
■ Buttons provided on some models
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
c Start/stop button
(for models equipped with the
start/stop button)
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping
the button pressed down to sew in the opposite
direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 29).
d Needle position button
(for models equipped with
the needle position button)
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the
sewing speed controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
6
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Operation panel
Flat bed attachment
The operation panel, located on the front of the
sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and
specify how the stitch will be sewn.
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside
the flat bed attachment.
1
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
a
open it.
a LCD (Liquid crystal display)
The selected stitch (1), presser foot that should be used
(2), stitch length in millimeters (3), and stitch width in
millimeters (4) are displayed.
a Flat bed attachment
b Storage compartment
b Stitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the
number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,
refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Note
c Stitch length adjustment key
● Put the accessories in the bag, and then
store the bag inside the compartment. If the
accessories are not in a bag, they may fall
out, and be lost or damaged.
Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch length.)
d Stitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch width.)
7
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you
be able to carry out most sewing tasks.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: CS-100, CS-6000, CS-6000i, CS-4000,
ES-2400, ES-2000, EX-660, CE-4000, BC-1000, HS-1000, XR-7700, CE-5000PRW, SM-6500PRW
● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
1.
9.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada Others
XC2691-031
XC3098-031
X53840-331
Part Code
No.
Part Name
No.
Part Name
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Seam ripper
9
Bobbin (4)
SA156
XA5539-151
10 Needle set
XC8834-021
11 Twin needle
12 Cleaning brush
13 Screwdriver
14 Extra spool pin
131096-121
X59476-021
X55467-021
130920-021
X59370-021
XC3021-031
XC4051-031
X59375-121
XD0501-021 (EU area)
XC8816-021 (Other areas)
15 Foot controller
X54243-001
Optional accessories
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Part Code
No.
Part Name
Walking Foot
No.
Part Name
Others
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
F016N:
XC2215-002
F033N:
1
2
3
SA140
SA129
SA125
4
5
Quilting guide
Eyelet punch
SA132
XC2214-002
F005N:
XC1948-002
F001N:
XC1944-002
Quilting Foot
135793-001
1/4-Inch Quilting
Foot
8
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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply precautions
1
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
●
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may
result.
To turn off the machine, set the main power
switch to “{”.
c
Power supply
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Insert the plug into a wall outlet.
a
Note
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
a Main power switch
b Jack/socket connector
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
Set the main power switch to “I”.
b
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
9
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing speed controller
(for models equipped with
the start/stop button)
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
the rear side of the sewing machine.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Foot controller jack/socket
CAUTION
● When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine
will stop.
Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in
the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can
be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Slower
Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.
Hold down the “–” side of
key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
(stitch selection
b
CAUTION
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could
cause a fire or an electric shock.
the “–” side of
(stitch selection key).
Note
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.
Memo
• Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.
10
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THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
1
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.
a Pre-tension disk
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin
CAUTION
● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing
machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other models
Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft
and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the
spring on the shaft slides into the groove of
the bobbin.
a
b
d
Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.
CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is not in the right place,
the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
1
2
Pass the end of the thread through the hole on
the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
c
a Spring on the shaft
b Groove of the bobbin
Turn on the sewing machine.
e
11
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the end of the thread, gently
press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to wind the thread around
the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine.
Press the foot controller or press
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.
(start/
f
i
Note
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
When the bobbin seems full and begins
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
j
controller or press
(start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left and remove the bobbin.
k
l
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
Memo
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
g
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
CAUTION
CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.
● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast). (For models
h
equipped with the sewing speed controller.)
2
1
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
a Sewing speed controller
12
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Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).
■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin
f
winding system
Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in
“Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
a
around the pre-tension disk (page 11).
1
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
b
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
a Sewing speed controller
Turn on the sewing machine.
g
h
Press the foot controller or press
stop button) (for models equipped with the
(start/
start/stop button) to start.
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
Note
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing (only for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
c
While holding the thread that wraps around the
pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your
d
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take
your foot off the foot controller or press
(start/stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
right hand to wind the free end of the thread
clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.
i
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left and remove the bobbin.
j
k
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
e
CAUTION
● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
●
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is
wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built
into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
2
1
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
13
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the button and open the cover.
b
Memo
1
2
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
a Cover
b Slide button
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in
the direction shown by the arrow.
c
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.
CAUTION
● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.
CAUTION
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
1
2
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
d
down with your finger, and then pass the
thread through the slit, as shown.
• Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, re-
insert the thread.
● The bobbin was designed specifically for this
sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB: XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other models
CAUTION
● Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
1
a Tension-adjusting spring
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
e
a
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
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the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
• Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted, re-
insert the thread.
1
• Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
a
1
press
(needle position button) (for models
a Tension-adjusting spring
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
Memo
Slide the button and open the cover.
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.
b
1
2
a Cover
b Slide button
Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread
through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
c
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
d
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.
CAUTION
Memo
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
● You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow to the procedure in
“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 19).
1
a Cutter
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
• For details on the needle threader, see page 17.
a Spool pin
b Thread guide
c Mark on the handwheel
CAUTION
● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
lever.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
(needle position button) (for models equipped
with the needle position button) once or twice
to raise the needle.
a
b
or
a Presser foot lever
a Mark
b Needle position button
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded. Be
sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark
on the wheel points up before threading the
sewing machine.
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Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
c
Note
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or
is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on
the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
1
Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure
on the previous page.
d
■ Using the needle threader (for models
Make sure you guide the thread through the
thread take-up lever from right to left.
equipped with the needle threader)
e
CAUTION
● The needle threader can only be used with
home sewing machine needles size 75/11-
100/16. Check the table on page 20 for the
appropriate needle and thread combinations.
If you are using transparent nylon mono-
filament thread, you can only use needles in
the range of 90/14-100/16.
a Thread take-up lever
● You cannot use the needle threader if you are
using decorative threads or special needles,
such as the twin needle and wing needle.
If you are using those types of threads or
needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand.
Make sure the main power switch is off when
threading the needle by hand.
Put the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.
f
Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in
“Upper threading” to thread the machine to
a
the needle bar thread guide.
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
a Needle bar thread guide
While lowering the needle threader lever,
hook the thread onto the guide.
c
Thread the needle from front to back and pull
out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.
g
a 5 cm (2 inch)
a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Fully lower the needle threader lever.
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through
the needle toward the back of the sewing
machine.
d
g
X The end of the needle threader rotates
toward you and the hook passes
through the eye of the needle.
Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.
e
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
a Hook
b Thread
While lightly holding the thread, release the
needle threader lever. The hook will pull the
thread through the needle.
f
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Drawing up the lower thread
Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads
and pull them toward the back of the machine
under the presser foot.
a
d
1
a Upper thread
While holding the end of the upper thread,
raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
that the mark on the wheel points up or by
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
b
■ For models equipped with the quick-set
bobbin
pressing
(needle position button) (for
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
thread by hand so that some thread will be left
over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
models equipped with the needle position
button) once or twice.
or
Pass the thread along the slit in the direction
of the arrow, and leave it there without
a
cutting it.
a Mark
b Needle position button
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower
thread.
c
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
Draw up the lower thread as described in
steps 1 to 4.
b
Replace the bobbin cover.
c
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
19
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
REPLACING THE NEEDLE
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Thread
Fabric Type/Application
Broadcloth
Size of Needle
Type
Size
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
60–80
Medium
Taffeta
weight
75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
50–80
60–80
Lawn
Georgette
Challis, Satin
Denim
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thin
65/9–75/11
fabrics
50–80
30–50
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thick
fabrics
90/14–100/16
Corduroy
Tweed
50
Jersey
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Stretch
fabrics
Thread for knits
50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
50–80
65/9–90/14
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30
90/14–100/16
Memo
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.
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CAUTION
Replacing the needle
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table on the
previous page. If the combination of the
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to
75/11), the needle may bend or break. In
addition, the stitching may be uneven or
puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle” .
1
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
a
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with
(needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing
twice.)
once or
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
or
a Mark
b Needle position button
1
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
CAUTION
■ Correct needle
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
1
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Flat surface
c
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
a Presser foot lever
1
a Flat surface
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
d
f
Note
● The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches
the needle stopper and securely tighten the
needle clamp screw with the screwdriver,
otherwise the needle may break or damage
may result.
a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
■ Installing the needle clamp
If the needle clamp is removed, follow the
procedure below to attach it to the needle bar.
As seen from the front of the machine, slide
the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that
a
the needle clamp screw is on the right side
and the needle bar thread guide is at the
bottom.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
e
a Needle clamp screw
b Needle bar thread guide
c Needle bar
Align the bottom edge of the needle holder
with the end of the needle bar, and then
b
tighten the needle clamp screw.
a Needle stopper
a Needle bar
b Needle holder
c Needle clamp screw
d Align
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Sewing with a twin needle
We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch settings” (page 52).
1
CAUTION
● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.
● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
● When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is
turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
Thread the right needle from front to back.
Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar
thread guide.
■ Twin needle threading
f
Attach the twin needle.
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a
a
single needle (page 21).
Attach the extra spool pin.
Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of
b
the machine. Put the second spool of thread
onto the extra spool pin.
a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar
thread guide.
b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide.
c Needle bar thread guide
Note
Models equipped with a needle threader
● You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.
a First spool
b Second spool
Use the thread from the first spool to thread
the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
The path for threading the machine to the
needle bar thread guide is the same as for
normally threading the machine (for a single
needle). See page 17 for more details.
c
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
Thread the left needle from front to back.
d
Use the thread from the second spool to thread
the machine to the thread take-up lever.
e
The path for threading the machine to the
thread take-up lever is the same as for normally
threading the machine (for a single needle).
See page 17 for more details.
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT
CAUTION
● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the
controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser
foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet
may cause an accident or injury.
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
d
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
a
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with
(needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing
once or twice.)
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
or
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
shank in the holder.
e
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to
be read.
a Mark
b Needle position button
If the sewing machine has been turned on,
turn it off.
b
CAUTION
a Presser foot holder
b Shank
c Pin
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the foot controller or the
start/stop button is accidentally pressed and
the machine starts sewing.
Note
● The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
a Presser foot lever
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Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the
presser foot holder.
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
f
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a
left side of the presser bar.
1
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
g
a Presser foot holder
b Presser bar
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
your right hand, and then tighten the screw
b
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Note
■ Removing the presser foot holder
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 24).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
b
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Turn on the
machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
2
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 9).
↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Select the stitch.
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 24).
Attach the presser
foot.
3
4
↓
Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 28).
Start sewing.
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■ [Example] Selecting stitch
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 04.
With on the right, select “4”, and with
.
Selecting stitching
a
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
on the left, select “0”.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
2
Press the “+” or “–” side of
length adjustment key) to increase or reduce
the stitch length.
(stitch
b
Press
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or
reduce the number by one. Pressing on the
(stitch selection keys). The
b
a Stitch length adjustment key
b Short
c Long
right changes the digit on the right and pressing
on the left changes the digit on the left.
Press the “+” or “–” side of
adjustment key) to increase or reduce the
stitch width.
(stitch width
c
X The stitch is selected.
a Stitch width adjustment key
b Narrow
c Wide
Attach the presser foot.
c
Note
Note
● When the stitch length or stitch width is
changed from the standard setting,
● The presser foot to be used is indicated by
the letter (G, A, J, N, or R) below
the right of the stitch number.
to
around
or
disappears from the LCD.
When the stitch length or stitch width is
reset back to the standard setting,
reappears around
or
in the LCD.
● If the stitch width of the selected stitch
cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right
of
in the LCD.
If necessary, adjust the stitch length and
width.
d
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, refer to the following example.
CAUTION
●
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot,
the needle may bend or break.
● If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may result in the
needle bending or breaking.
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Lower the presser foot lever.
e
Starting to sew
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped
a
with
(needle position button), raise the
needle by pressing
once or twice.)
a Presser foot lever
On models equipped with a sewing speed
controller, slide the sewing speed controller
to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.
Refer to “Sewing speed controller” (page 10).
f
or
a Mark
b Needle position button
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a Sewing speed controller
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
g
(With models equipped with
button), if the foot controller is not connected,
press once.)
(start/stop
a Presser foot lever
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass
the thread under the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward
the rear of the machine.
c
or
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller, or press
(start/stop button) once (if the machine
h
i
j
a 5 cm (2 inch)
was started by pressing
(start/stop button))
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
right hand to lower the needle to the starting
point of the stitching.
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
d
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with
(needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing
once or
twice.)
Raise the presser foot lever.
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Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
k
Thread tension
The thread tension will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
Memo
● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
2
■ Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
a Thread cutter
1
Memo
● When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
2
●
When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 10).
3
4
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
1
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
2
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
surface of fabric
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
3
5
pressing
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
4
sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top
of each other.
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number.
4
■ Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.
2
1
5
1
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
2
Memo
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
settings” (page 52).
wrong side of
fabric
3
4
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number.
4
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
USEFUL SEWING TIPS
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
c
Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is
selected.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing
direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
a
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle was raised, lower the needle either by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or by pressing
(needle
position button) once (for models equipped
with the needle position button).
Sewing thick fabrics
CAUTION
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to raise
the needle before changing the sewing
direction. If the fabric is turned while the
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
b
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
30
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■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
a Sewing direction
2
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
a
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
Press the black button on the left side of the
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
a Stabilizer material or paper
b
presser foot.
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
a Black button
a Basting
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
c
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
Using a free-arm style
feed.
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular
and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to
the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
release it.
a
• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
CAUTION
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.
a Flat bed attachment
31
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
( J )
***
Yes
*
Zigzag stitch
J
J
04 04 04 04
05 05 05 05
06 06 06 06
07 07 07 07
08 08 08 08
Rev.
(1/8)
(1/16)
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darn-
ing, etc.
3-point zig-
zag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
**
**
**
**
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
G
G
J
No
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
Overcasting on thick fab-
rics
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
No
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Yes
(3/32) (1/32–3/16) ( J )
*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
***Do not use reverse stitching.
Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.
Select a stitch.
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a
b
d
1
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 27).
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
c
a Needle drop point
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
a Guide
32
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BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
*
*
***
Yes
Left
J
J
J
00 00 00 00
No
Rev.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching zippers, basic
01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
***
Yes
Center
–
–
Rev.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
3
Attaching sleeves, sew-
Triple
stretch stitch
ing inseams, sewing
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
**
02 02 02 02
No
No
Rfc.
stretch fabrics and deco-
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
rative stitching
*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
***Do not use reverse stitching.
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
Basic stitching
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 28).
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Select a stitch.
b
c
■ Changing the needle position
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 27).
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the right;
pressing the “–” side of the stitch width
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
d
e
adjustment key moves the needle to the left.
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 28).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 29).
a Stitch width adjustment key
b Left needle position
c Right needle position
33
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
BLIND HEM STITCHING
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
0
2.0
1.0–3.5
*
*
R
R
09 09 09 09
10 10 10 10
3 – –3
3 – –3
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
(0)
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)
from the edge of the fabric. Fold back the fabric
along the basting, and then position the fabric
with the wrong side facing up.
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
a
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold,
adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly
catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the
stitch width adjustment key.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust
the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width
adjustment key.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
c Desired edge of hem
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
Select a stitch.
b
c
d
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
Check that the needle slightly catches the fold
of the hem.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
e
f
R
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
fabric right side up.
a Needle
b Needle drop point
c Fold of hem
d Wrong side of fabric
e Guide
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
34
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BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Horizontal buttonholes
29 29 29 25 on thin and medium
weight fabrics
*
5.0
3.0-5.0
0.4
0.2-1.0
Auto
Rfc.
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
J
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
(3/16) (1/8-3/16) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
Secured buttoholes for
30 30 30 26 fabrics that have back-
ings
*
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
(3/16) (1/8-3/16) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
3
*
Buttonholes for stretch or
31 31 31 27
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
Auto
Rfc.
knit fabrics
(15/64) (1/8-15/64) (1/16) (1/32-1/16)
*
Buttonhole
stitch
Buttonholes for stretch
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
Auto
Rfc.
32 32 32 28
fabrics
(15/64) (1/8-15/64) (1/16) (1/16-1/8)
*
Keyhole buttonholes for
33 33 33 29
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
thick or furry fabrics
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for
*
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
34 34
35 35
40 40
–
–
–
–
–
–
medium weight and thick
fabrics
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
*
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0-4.0
(0-3/16)
**
Rfc.
*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Rfc.: Reinforcement
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
a Reinforcement stitching
35
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
5
1
3
2
4
3
A
a Presser foot scale
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
b Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
Use chalk to mark the position and length of
the buttonhole on the fabric.
a
1
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
Select a stitch.
c
d
e
a Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
b
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
1
2
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
A
2
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
36
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• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
h
i
j
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole
stitching to prevent the stitching from being
cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards
the pin and open the buttonhole.
2
a Do not reduce the gap.
3
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
1
f
a Seam ripper
b Pin
For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial
eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded
end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam
ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
a Eyelet punch
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
g
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
direction, otherwise injuries may result if the
seam ripper slips.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
Memo
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
37
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
b
the machine on the base, to
(to the right
as seen from the front of the machine).
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
c
d
e
f
Select a stitch
or
.
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Attach presser foot “M”.
c
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
g
h
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
1
a Button fitting foot “M”
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
38
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Place a button between the presser foot and
the fabric.
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the
button.
d
h
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
3
Select a stitch . (With models not provided
with stitch , select stitch .)
e
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
CAUTION
f
g
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch the button, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.
Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by
pressing the stitch length adjustment key.
Start sewing.
i
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
j
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
When you are finished attaching the button,
k
slide the feed dog position lever to
(to
the left as seen from the front of the machine)
to raise the feed dogs.
39
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left
side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch
(center)
Attaching zippers, basic
01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
**
Yes
*
I
–
–
Rev.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
*Rev.: Reverse
**Do not use reverse stitching.
Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the
top on both sides. The needle should be
positioned on the zipper side of the foot for
best results.
1
2
d
3
a Zipper foot
b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper
c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper
Select stitch
.
a
b
Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the
left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the
shank.
To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release
the foot by pressing the button located at the
back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on
the other side of the zipper and continue
sewing using the other side notch.
e
Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)
and place the zipper under the folded section.
Lower the needle into the notch located either
on the left or right side of the zipper foot.
c
CAUTION
CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper
during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,
the needle may break and you may be injured.
● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and
break the needle. You may also be injured.
40
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SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Sewing stretch fabrics
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
*
*
Stretch stitch
J
J
03 03 03 03
05 05 05 05
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
and decorative stitching
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) ( J )
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darn-
ing, etc.
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Yes
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
3
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Stretch stitching
Select stitch
.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Select stitch
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
c
d
a
b
c
.
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest
the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make
sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
1
2
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
a Elastic tape
b Pin
41
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
( J )
**
Yes
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Zigzag stitch
J
J
J
J
J
J
J
J
04 04 04 04
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(1/8)
(1/16)
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
40 40
-
-
No
Yes
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
No
Appliqué
stitch
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Yes
11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) ( J )
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
41 41
42 42
37 37
38 38
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
No
No
No
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
No
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Yes
14 14 14 14
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
Patchwork stitching, dec-
orative stitching and sew-
15 15 15 15 ing overcasting on both
pieces of fabrics, such as
with tricot
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Yes
*
Joining stitch
J
No
Rfc.
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) ( J )
Patchwork stitching and
16 16 16 16
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Yes
*
*
*
J
J
J
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
decorative stitching
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
Hand-look
quilting
Straight stitch quilting
39 39 35 31
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
No
No
that looks hand-sewn
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
43 43
-
-
(1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
**Do not use reverse stitching.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Appliqués
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a
decoration.
Select stitch
.
c
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
a
42
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Carefully sew around the edge of the design.
d
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
a
Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.
e
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch
or
.
c
d
3
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Remove the basting, if necessary.
f
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
1
.
Memo
● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.
CAUTION
● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
may also be injured.
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
.
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
1
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
a
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans both pieces.
b
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to “Changing the needle
position” (page 33).
43
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while
e
Quilting
sewing.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
Note
● Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
a
b
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 25).
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw, lower the
presser foot lever, and then use the presser
foot holder screw to attach the walking foot
to the presser bar.
c
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
holder.
a
† Walking foot
† Presser foot holder
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
● Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw
securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may
strike the presser foot and cause injury.
● Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
b
Select stitch
,
or
.
d
44
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Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the
rear of the machine on the base, to (to
the right as seen from the front of the machine).
d
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
a
3
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 25).
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
b
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
e
f
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then
move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
c
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Pattern
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog
a Presser foot holder screw
g
position lever to
(to the left as seen from
the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
CAUTION
• Normally, the feed dog position lever is
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or
break.
positioned at
.
45
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Attaching sleeves, sew-
ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and deco-
rative stitching
Triple
0.0
(0)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
1.5-4.0
*
J
02 02 02 02
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
stretch stitch
(3/32) (1/16-3/16)
Reinforcing openings
36 36 34 30 and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
**
Bar tack
stitch
2.0
1.0-3.0
0.4
0.3-1.0
Auto
Rfc.
A
(1/16) (1/16-1/8) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement
Triple stretch stitching
Bar tack stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select stitch
Start sewing.
.
b
c
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 28).
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
a
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
b
46
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Select stitch
.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
c
d
e
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
3
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
f
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
g
h
a Do not reduce the gap.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Selecting
stitching” (page 27).
47
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
1.0-4.0
Yes
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
J
J
17 17 17 17
18 18 18 18
14 14 14 14
15 15 15 15
16 16 16 16
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(3/16)
(3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
Fagoting
stitch
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0
2.5-7.0
2.5
1.0-4.0
Yes
(3/16) (3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2
0.2-4.0
Yes
J
(1/16) (1/64-3/16) ( J )
Patchwork stitching, deco-
rative stitching and sewing
overcasting on both pieces
of fabrics, such as with tricot
Joining stitch
5.0
2.5-7.0
2.5
1.0-4.0
Yes
J
(3/16) (3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2
0.2-4.0
Yes
J
(1/16) (1/64-3/16) ( J )
Shell tuck
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
0.2-4.0
Yes
J
12 12 12 12 Sell tuck stitching
13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching
20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching
(3/32) (1/64-3/16) ( J )
Satin scallop
stitch
5.0
2.5-7.0
0.5
0.1-1.0
Yes
N
J
(3/16) (3/32-1/4) (1/32) (1/64-1/16) ( J )
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0
2.0-4.0
No
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
1.0-4.0
Yes
J
(3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
5.5
(7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6
1.0-4.0
Yes
J
21 21 21
–
Decorative stitching
(1/16) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching
5.0
1.5-7.0
1.0
0.2-4.0
Yes
22 22 22 21
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
(3/16) (1/64-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16) ( J )
Lace sewing, decorative
23 23 23 22 hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4
2.5
1.6-4.0
No
No
(3/32) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative
stitch
Decorative hemming,
24 24 24 23
6.0
1.5-7.0
3.0
1.5-4.0
heirloom stitching, etc.
(15/64) (1/16-1/4)
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4)
loom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5-7.0
3.5
1.5-4.0
25 25 25
–
No
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (3/16) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
loom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5-7.0
4.0
1.5-4.0
Yes
26 26 26 24
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
loom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5-7.0
2.5
1.5-4.0
Yes
27 27 27
28 28 28
–
–
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
loom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5-7.0
2.0
1.5-4.0
Yes
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
48
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Fagoting
Scallop stitching
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
a
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
b
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
Select stitch
.
b
c
3
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
1
3
2
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
Select stitch
or
.
d
e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
Trim along the stitches.
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 27).
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
f
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
g
49
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
g
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
b
Shell tuck stitching
the thread tension.
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 27) and “Thread tension” (page 29).
Fold the fabric along the bias.
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
1
a
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
b
c
• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or
cut the thread.
Select stitch , and then increase the thread
tension.
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
d
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 27).
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
d
1
Select stitch
or
.
e
f
Stitch between the straight stitches.
a Needle drop point
50
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Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
e
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
CAUTION
● The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 16).
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
3
Insert the wing needle.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
a
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
b
allowances.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 21).
2
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
b
1
Select stitch
,
,
,
,
or
.
c
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch
CAUTION
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
Select stitch
,
or
.
c
d
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
Start sewing.
d
a Right side of fabric
51
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
CAUTION
● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Utility stitches
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
***
Yes
*
*
Left
J
J
00 00 00 00
No
Rev.
Rev.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching zippers, basic
01 01 01 01 stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
2.5
0.2–5.0
Yes
***
Yes
Center
–
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
Attaching sleeves, sew-
Triple
ing inseams, sewing
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
**
**
*
J
02 02 02 02
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
stretch stitch
stretch fabrics and deco-
rative stitching
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
****
Yes
( J )
Sewing stretch fabrics
03 03 03 03
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Stretch stitch
Zigzag stitch
J
and decorative stitching
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
****
Yes
( J )
Overcasting and attach-
04 04 04 04
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
***
J
Yes
No
No
No
No
Rev.
ing appliqués
Overcasting on medium
****
Yes
( J )
3-point zig-
zag stitch
weight or stretch fabrics,
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
**
J
05 05 05 05
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
attaching elastic, darn-
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ing, etc.
Overcasting on thin or
06 06 06 06
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
**
**
**
G
G
J
No
medium weight fabrics
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
Overcasting on thick fab-
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
07 07 07 07
rics
No
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
****
Yes
( J )
Overcasting on stretch
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
08 08 08 08
fabrics
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
***Do not use reverse stitching.
****Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
52
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
0
2.0
1.0–3.5
*
*
*
*
*
*
R
R
J
09 09 09 09
10 10 10 10
3 – –3
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(0)
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
3 – –3
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
**
Yes
Appliqué
stitch
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching
12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching
13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) ( J )
**
Yes
Shell tuck
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
**
Yes
Satin scallop
stitch
5.0
2.5-7.0
0.5
0.1-1.0
N
J
(3/16) (3/32-1/4) (1/32) (1/64-1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
Patchwork stitching and
14 14 14 14
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
decorative stitching
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
4
Patchwork stitching, dec-
orative stitching and sew-
**
Yes
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
*
Joining stitch
J
15 15 15 15 ing overcasting on both
pieces of fabrics, such as
No
Rfc.
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) ( J )
with tricot
**
Yes
Patchwork stitching and
16 16 16 16
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
J
J
J
J
J
J
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
decorative stitching
(3/16)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16) ( J )
**
Yes
Fagoting, smocking and
17 17 17 17
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
1.0-4.0
decorative stitching
(3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
Fagoting
stitch
**
Yes
Fagoting, smocking and
18 18 18 18
5.0
2.5-7.0
2.5
1.0-4.0
decorative stitching
(3/16) (3/32-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0
2.0-4.0
19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching
20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching
No
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
**
Yes
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5
1.0-4.0
(3/32) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
**
Yes
5.5
(7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6
1.0-4.0
21 21 21
–
Decorative stitching
(1/16) (1/16-3/16) ( J )
**
Yes
Decorative
stitch
Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching
5.0
1.5-7.0
1.0
0.2-4.0
22 22 22 21
N
N
(3/16) (1/64-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16) ( J )
Lace sewing, decorative
23 23 23 22 hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5-7.0
2.5
1.6-4.0
No
No
No
(1/16-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming,
24 24 24 23
6.0
1.5-7.0
3.0
1.5-4.0
N
N
heirloom stitching, etc.
(15/64) (1/16-1/4)
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4)
loom stitching, etc.
5.0
1.5-7.0
3.5
1.5-4.0
25 25 25
–
(1/8) (1/16-3/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
53
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
***
Yes
5.0
1.5-7.0
4.0
1.5-4.0
*
*
N
N
N
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
J
26 26 26 24
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (3/16) (1/16-3/16)
loom stitching, etc.
( J )
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (3/32) (1/16-3/16)
loom stitching, etc.
***
Decorative
stitch
5.0
1.5-7.0
2.5
1.5-4.0
Yes
( J )
27 27 27
28 28 28
–
–
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir- (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/16-3/16)
loom stitching, etc.
***
5.0
1.5-7.0
2.0
1.5-4.0
*
Yes
( J )
Horizontal buttonholes
29 29 29 25 on thin and medium
weight fabrics
**
5.0
3.0-5.0
0.4
0.2-1.0
Auto
Rfc.
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/8-3/16) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
Secured buttonholes for
30 30 30 26 fabrics that have back-
ings
**
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
(3/16) (1/8-3/16) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
**
Buttonholes for stretch or
31 31 31 27
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
Auto
Rfc.
knit fabrics
(15/64) (1/8-15/64) (1/16) (1/32-1/16)
**
Buttonhole
stitch
Buttonholes for stretch
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
Auto
Rfc.
32 32 32 28
fabrics
(15/64) (1/8-15/64) (1/16) (1/16-1/8)
**
Keyhole buttonholes for
33 33 33 29
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
thick or furry fabrics
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and thick
fabrics
**
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
34 34
35 35
–
–
–
–
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
**
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
(1/32) (1/64-1/16)
Reinforcing openings
36 36 34 30 and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
**
Bar tack
stitch
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
Auto
Rfc.
(1/16) (1/16-1/8) (1/64) (1/64-1/16)
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
*
37 37
38 38
-
-
-
-
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
*
*
*
J
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Hand-look
quilting
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
J
39 39 35 31
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
40 40
-
-
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
**Auto Rfc.: AutomaticReinforcement
***Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
54
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
J
41 41
-
-
-
-
-
-
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
J
42 42
43 43
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
J
(1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
44 44 36 32 For decoration, etc.
45 45 37 33 For decoration, etc.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
46 46 38
-
-
-
-
-
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
4
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
47
-
-
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
48 47 39
49 48 40
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–4.0
50
-
-
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
51 49 41 34 For decoration, etc.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
52
53
54
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–4.0
55 50
56 51
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
55
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Pattern No.
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
**
Yes
7.0
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
57 52 42
-
-
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
Rfc.
(1/4)
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
58
-
-
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
59 53 43 35 For decoration, etc.
60 54 44 36 For decoration, etc.
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
Satin
stitches
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
61 55 45
-
For decoration, etc.
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
62 56 46 37 For decoration, etc.
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
63
64
65
66
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
**
Yes
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) ( J )
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–4.0
No
No
No
No
No
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Cross-
stitches
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
67 57 47 38 For decoration, etc.
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.2–4.0
68 58 48
-
For decoration, etc.
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.2–4.0
69 59 49 39 For decoration, etc.
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
*Rfc.: Reinforcement
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
56
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MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the bobbin case
Cleaning the machine
surface
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
CAUTION
● Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
Switch the machine off and unplug it.
a
4
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
b
Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle
clamp screw to remove the presser-foot
c
holder and the needle.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you to remove the
d
needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover
57
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin case.
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the
needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.
e
h
1
a Bobbin case
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
f
CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XC3152-021), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
• Do not put oil on the bobbin case.
Insert the bobbin case so that the projection
on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
g
1
2
2
1
a Projection
b Spring
58
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TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops working properly, check the following possible problems.
If the problem it still there, contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center.
Symptom
Possible cause
How to put it right
Plug the machine in.
Reference
page 9
The machine is not plugged in.
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch.
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
page 9
The sewing
machine does
not work.
page 12, 13
the right.
left.
You have not used the foot control-
ler properly.
Use the foot controller properly.
Fit the needle properly.
page 10
page 21
page 22
page 21
page 20
The needle is not fitted properly.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
Replace the needle.
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
4
The presser foot you are using is not Attach the presser foot that is correct
appropriate for the type of stitch that for the type of stitch that you want to
page 52
you want to sew.
sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric.
page 29
–
The needle
breaks.
Replace the needle plate.
The area around the hole in the nee-
Contact your retailer or the nearest
dle plate is scratched.
–
authorized service center.
Replace the presser foot.
The area around the hole in the
Contact your retailer or the nearest
presser foot is scratched.
–
–
authorized service center.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 11
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. (for example, you
have not fitted the spool properly, or Correct the upper threading.
the thread has come out of the guide
page 16
–
above the needle.)
There are knots or tangles in the
Remove any knots or tangles.
thread.
The upper
thread breaks.
The needle is not appropriate for the Choose a needle that is appropriate
page 20
page 29
thread you are using.
for the type of stitch.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example,
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
in the bobbin case.
page 57
page 21
clean the bobbin case.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
59
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Possible cause
How to put it right
Reference
You have not inserted the needle
properly.
Insert the needle properly.
page 21
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
The area around the hole in the nee-
dle plate is scratched.
–
Replace the presser foot.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
–
–
The upper
thread breaks.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 11
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly.
Replace the bobbin.
page 11
–
The bobbin is scratched or does not
turn smoothly.
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the bobbin case.
The thread is tangled.
page 57
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 11
Bobbin is set incorrectly.
Reset the bobbin thread correctly.
page 14, 15
page 16
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly.
page 11
page 20
You have not threaded the right
combination of thread and needle
for the fabric you are using.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
The thread ten-
sion is incorrect.
You have not attached the presser-
foot holder properly.
Attach the presser-foot holder prop-
erly.
page 25
page 29
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 11
Bobbin is set incorrectly.
Reset the bobbin thread correctly.
page 14, 15
page 14, 15, 16
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly or fitted the bobbin
properly.
Thread the upper thread and wind
the bobbin thread properly.
You have not fitted the spool prop-
erly.
Fit the spool properly.
–
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
page 20
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 21
page 31
If you are sewing thin fabric, the
stitch is too thick.
Sew with stabiliser material under
the fabric.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
page 29
60
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Symptom
Possible cause
How to put it right
Reference
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 16
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 20
page 21
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
You have not inserted the needle
properly.
Insert the needle properly.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the plate and the bobbin case.
page 57
page 57
page 16
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or
in the bobbin case.
Clean the bobbin case.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading.
There is a high-
pitched noise
while sewing.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched.
–
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
You have not used bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 11
4
Raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up or by pressing
(needle position button) once or
twice.
You have not moved the needle
holder to its highest position.
page 16
The needle
threader can not
be used.
You have not inserted the needle
properly.
Insert the needle properly.
page 21
page 52
page 29
page 57
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
The presser foot that you are using is
not correct for the type of stitch.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Slide the feed dog position lever to
.
The feed dogs are lowered.
The stitch is too fine.
page 38, 45
page 27
Lengthen the stitch length.
The fabric does
not feed.
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 20
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
page 57
–
The sewing light
bulb does not
come on.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
61
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Error Message
Probable Cause
Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but-
ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con-
nected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
was pressed while the presser foot is raised.
Lower the presser foot lever
before continuing the opera-
tion.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch
was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or Raise the buttonhole lever
the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller before continuing the opera-
is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is low- tion.
ered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and
Lower the buttonhole lever
the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but-
before continuing the opera-
ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con-
tion.
nected) while the buttonhole lever is raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle
Move the bobbin winder
position button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft to the left before con-
shaft is moved to the right.
tinuing the operation.
Disconnect the foot control-
ler, and then press the start/
stop button. Otherwise,
operate the machine by
using the foot controller.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot con-
troller was connected.
Remove the tangled thread
before continuing the opera-
tion.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
Note
● If error message “F1” through “F8” appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)
Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).
■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed
Two or four beeps sound.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the
cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.
62
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i
INDEX
Numerics
M
3-point zigzag stitch.......................................................32
main parts ........................................................................5
main power switch...........................................................9
monogramming.......................................................49, 51
A
accessories.......................................................................8
appliqués .......................................................................42
N
needle............................................................................20
needle bar thread guide....................................................6
needle clamp screw ..................................................6, 22
needle plate .....................................................................6
needle plate cover..........................................................57
needle position...............................................................33
needle position button......................................................6
needle threader ..............................................................17
B
bar tack..........................................................................46
basic stitching ................................................................33
blind hem stitching.........................................................34
bobbin ...........................................................................14
bobbin case.............................................................14, 57
bobbin cover.............................................................6, 14
bobbin winder..................................................11, 59, 62
button sewing.................................................................38
buttonhole foot...............................................................36
buttonhole lever.................................................6, 37, 47
buttonhole sewing..........................................................35
O
openings ........................................................................46
operation beep...............................................................62
operation buttons .............................................................6
operation panel................................................................7
optional accessories .........................................................8
overcasting stitches ........................................................32
4
C
crazy quilt stitching........................................................43
P
D
patchwork stitching........................................................43
piecing...........................................................................43
pocket corners................................................................46
presser foot................................................................6, 24
presser foot holder.....................................................6, 25
presser foot lever.......................................................6, 16
pre-tension disk..............................................................11
Darning...................................................................32, 41
E
elastic tape.....................................................................41
error messages................................................................62
extra spool pin ...............................................................23
eyelet punch ..................................................................37
Q
F
quick-set bobbin .......................................................6, 15
quilting...........................................................................44
quilting foot....................................................................45
quilting guide.................................................................44
fagoting..........................................................................49
fast bobbin winding........................................................12
feed dog position lever...................................................45
feed dogs...................................................................6, 45
flat bed attachment....................................................7, 31
foot controller ...........................................................8, 28
free-arm style .................................................................31
free-motion quilting........................................................45
R
reinforcement stitching...................................................46
reverse/reinforcement stitch button...................................6
S
H
scallop stitching .............................................................49
seam ripper ....................................................................37
sewing machine needles ................................................20
sewing speed controller....................................................6
sleeve holes....................................................................46
smocking........................................................................50
spool pin.................................................................11, 16
start/stop button.........................................................6, 28
stitch length....................................................................27
stitch selection key...........................................................7
stitch settings..................................................................52
stitch width ....................................................................27
straight stitch..................................................................33
stretch fabrics.................................................................31
handwheel .......................................................................5
heirloom stitching ..........................................................51
J
joining............................................................................51
joining stitch ...........................................................42, 48
L
LCD .................................................................................7
63
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
T
thick fabrics....................................................................30
thin fabrics .....................................................................31
thread cutter...................................................................29
thread guide...................................................................16
thread tension ................................................................29
trial sewing.....................................................................30
triple stretch stitch..........................................................33
troubleshooting ..............................................................59
twin needle ....................................................................22
U
upper tension-control dial ..............................................29
upper threading..............................................................16
W
walking foot ...................................................................44
wing needle ...................................................................51
Z
zigzag stitch .....................................................30, 32, 42
zipper foot......................................................................40
zipper Insertion ..............................................................40
64
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English
885-S33/S34/S36/S37
8
XC8835-621
Printed in China
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