See appendix for differences in the
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition
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2
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following.
WARNING
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury
to persons:
When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be
disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug
from the outlet.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.
Close attention is necessary when the sewing computer is
used by or near children and infirm persons.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as
described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
1. A sewing computer should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if
•
it has a damaged cord or plug
•
it is not working properly
•
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
it has been dropped or damaged
it has fallen into water
•
Return the sewing computer to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace the bulb
with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
4. Never operate the computer with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer and foot
control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is
required around the sewing needle.
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Safety instructions
3
6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate
can cause the needle to break.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the
result of misuse of the sewing computer.
7. Do not use bent needles.
17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for
Servicing of double-insulated machines.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
SERVICING DOUBLE-
INSULATED PRODUCTS
9. Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments
in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle,
threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet
when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other
user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provi-
ded instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a
double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be
added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requi-
res extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is marked with the words
«DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or
where oxygen is being administered.
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off («0») position
then remove the plug from the outlet.
This sewing computer is intended for household use only.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
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4
Details
Details of the sewing computer
14
11
15
16
17
22
23
9
13
20
27
8
19
21
18
24
12
6
7
26
25
5
3
2
4
1
28
Front view
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Details
5
11
14
1
2
3
Bobbin cover
Stitch plate
24 Stitch selection buttons
25 #-button
26 clr/del-button
27 Handwheel
10
Attachment base for
special accessories
Sewing table socket
Presser foot
Needle clamp with
fixation screw
Thread guide
Thread take up cover
Thread path
4
5
6
28 FHS connection
29 Balance adjustment knob
30 Power switch on/off
31 Power plug socket
32 Drop feed-dog
33 Foot control socket
34 Spool pin (vertical,
collapsible)
7
8
9
34
27
10 Thread tension
adjustment
11 Bobbin pre-tension
12 Reverse button/quick and
continuous
29
13 Screen
30
31
14 Bobbin winder with
on/off switch and thread
cutter
33
15 Stitch width button
16 Needle position button
17 Stitch length button
18 Needle stop up/down
19 1/2 speed
32
20 Pattern end
21 Mirror image
22 mem (memory) button
23 Alphabet buttons
Right end
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6
Details
42
43
40
36
45
37
3
39
2
4
Back view
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Details
7
35 Carrying handle
36 Presser foot lifter
(manual)
45 Needle Threader
46 Lens holder
35
37 Thread cutter
38 Thread take up
42
38
39 Darning ring connection
40 Accessory box connection
41 Thread tension disc
42 Rear thread guide
43 Horizontal spool pin
44 Accessory box catch
36
37
44
46
43
41
Left end
Sewing computer with Accessory box
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8
Setting up the sewing computer
Accessories
Start-stop-unit**
•
foot control
instruction manual
power cable
warranty card
Accessory box
presser foot lifter
Standard accessories*:
4 bobbins (+ 1 in the capsule
in the sewing computer)
Selection of 130/705H needles
Seam ripper
Screwdriver
Angle key Torx
Screwdriver Torx
Lint brush
With the Start-stop-unit (SSU)
the start-stop-function can be
controlled by hand.
•
•
•
•
•
•
press start-stop-button A =
stitching starts
B
•
with the speed regulator B
A
the sewing speed can be
regulated by hand
•
to interrupt or stop sewing =
Seam guide
press start-stop-button A
Compensating plate
3 spool discs
again
Foam pad
Note:
Oiler
* can vary from country to country;
see presser foot selection p. 33
If the foot control is connec-
ted with the sewing machine,
the Start-stop-unit is out
functions.
Fabric cover
•
protects from dust and dirt
** available as a special accessory
•
compartment for accessories
CFL **
Lens Set: **
Contrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFL
sewing light has a better illumination
and a longer life.
We recommend the use of the
BERNINA Lens Set for more
comfort when sewing.
Caution:
Caution!
Please note that a defective CFL
sewing light must ONLY be replaced
by an authorized technician. The
sewing computer must be brought
to an authorized BERNINA dealer!
To avoid injury always attach
the protective cover of the
magnifying glass holder
when the magnifying glass is
not in use.
Please refer to the safety
instructions!
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Setting up the sewing computer
9
Accessory box
D
F
A
G
H
E
B
C
•
•
•
Free standing accessory box
push the bobbins into the compartments
provided
to remove a bobbin, press the compart-
ment holder F lightly
attach the box to the sewing computer
(catch A must engage); inserting
the presser foot lifter into the opening H
Note: first lower the presser foot lifter!
•
pull both feet out until they click into
place
•
stand box in chosen position
•
•
insert the presser feet into the slot E
the needle selection box can be stored in
compartment G
Storing accessories
Standard accessories are supplied in a
plastic bag.
The box is equipped with one small and
one large drawer (B and C) as well as com-
partments for bobbin holders D and presser
feet E. (Additional compartments and
drawers are available as optional extras.)
Attaching the accessory box to the
sewing computer
•
close the doors
•
push feet back into position
Available as a special accessory
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10
Setting up the sewing computer
Power cable
Foot control
The power cable
The foot control regulates the
sewing speed
•
plug A into sewing computer
•
plug B into wall socket
Sewing speed is adjusted by
applying more or less pressure
to the foot control.
Foot control cable
•
plug C into sewing computer
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing computer has a
polarized plug (one blade
Important! (USA/Canada only)
Use only foot controller type
SR-1 with sewing computers
activa 135 S /145 S.
C
A
B
wider than the other). To re-
duce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrican to install
the proper outlet. Do not
Power switch
modify the plug in any way.
Self storing cord
•
The switch is on the handwheel
side of the computer
wind the cord on the reel
insert the plug into the groo-
•
1 the computer is switched on
0 the computer is switched off
ve provided
When sewing
•
The sewing light is switched on
and off with the power switch.
unwind the cable
Refer to the safety
instruction!
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Setting up the sewing computer
11
Sewing table
Increases the sewing surface.
To remove
Seam guide
•
•
raise the needle and presser
foot
pull the table out of the
fixing cam
pull in horizontal position to
the left
insert into the groove (under-
side of table) from the right or
left
it can be freely adjusted over
the whole width of the table
Note: Remove the presser
foot when attaching the seam
guide!
To attach
•
•
•
raise the needle and presser
•
foot
•
place the table over the free
arm and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing cam
Scale
•
«0» corresponds to the centre
needle position
Free-Hand-System (FHS) presser foot lifter* (knee-operated)
Attaching the presser foot
The presser foot lifter raises
lifter
and lowers the presser foot
•
Insert into the opening in the
base plate: you should be able
to operate the lifter with your
knee in your normal sitting
position.
push to the right
•
the presser foot is raised
•
the feed-dog is lowered
simultaneously
•
the feed-dog is raised as soon
as the first stitch is sewn
Note:
Your dealer can adjust it if
necessary.
* Special accessory can vary from
country to country
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12
Setting up the sewing computer
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
Thread cutter
•
•
•
turn power switch on
place empty bobbin on
spindle
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
wind it several times round the empty bobbin
press the engaging lever against the bobbin
press the foot control
cut the thread on the thread
•
cutter
•
•
•
•
•
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
remove the bobbin
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 15), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
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Setting up the sewing computer
13
Bobbin case
A
To remove the bobbin case
To insert the bobbin case
Refer to the safety
instruction!
•
•
raise the needle
hold the bobbin case latch
•
•
•
turn power switch to «0»
the finger on the case should
take the thread over cutter A
•
•
open the bobbin cover
point upwards
thread is cut
•
•
•
grasp the latch of the bobbin
insert so that it clicks into
close the bobbin cover
case
place
•
remove case
Note:
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
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14
Setting up the sewing computer
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counter clock-
wise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until ...
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clock-
wise when thread is pulled.
Changing the needle
Removing the needle
•
•
•
•
•
raise the needle
turn power switch to «0»
lower the presser foot
loosen the needle clamp screw
pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
•
flat side of needle to the back
•
insert the needle as far as it will go
tighten the needle clamp screw
Refer to the safety
instruction!
•
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Setting up the sewing computer
15
Changing the presser foot
Presser foot with shank
Attaching the presser foot
Refer to the safety
instruction!
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
raise the needle and
presser foot
turn power switch to «0»
raise the clamping lever
remove the presser foot
guide the foot upwards
over the cone
press the clamping lever
down
Supplementary spool pin
Collapsible vertical spool pin
•
found on the back of the sewing computer
behind the handwheel
essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
A
•
needle work
•
raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
•
when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
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16
Setting up the sewing computer
Threading the upper thread
C
C
A
S
•
raise the needle and presser foot
•
turn the power switch to «0»
•
place spool on pin and attach the appropriate
B
spool disc – diameter of spool = disc size
D
D
•
take thread through rear guide A
E
E
•
then into slit of upper thread tension
•
pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
•
then up to the left of the cover to C
•
and down through guides D and E
Refer to the safety
instruction!
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Needle Threader
17
Needle Threader
A
B
Thread in hook
Lever down
Thread in front of needle
· put the thread from the
front into the guide until · let go of lever A and
it catches in the hook thread
Release the lever and thre-
ad
· lower the presser foot
· lay the thread behind
hook B and hold lightly
· press lever A down and
simultaneously guide the
thread around hook B to
the right to the needle
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18
Setting up the sewing computer
Bringing up the lower thread
•
hold the upper thread
Note:
•
•
sew one stitch
pull the upper thread until the bobbin thread appears
in the stitch plate hole
pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both
threads through the slit in the presser foot towards the back
pull threads over the cutter
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the stitch
plate for certain types of
work. The length of thread
is sufficient for most normal
work if the lower thread
cutter has been used.
•
•
Thread cutter
•
•
pull both threads from front to back over the
cutter
the threads release as soon as the first stitch is
sewn
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Setting up the sewing computer
19
Stitch plate
Stitch plate markings
•
the stitch plate is marked with seam guide lines in mm and inches
the millimetre markings are at the front
the inch markings are at the back
the measurements show the distance (with needle position centre) from
needle to line
5
1
1
/
4
5
/
8
1
/
8
/
4
1
•
•
•
•
•
•
lines are provided to the right and left of the needle
they are very useful guide lines for precise seaming
the horizontal lines are useful for sewing corners, etc.
20
10
10
20
Feed-dog
Button below the handwheel
Button flush with housing =
sewing position
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered
•
for free-hand sewing (darning, embroidery, etc.)
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20
Setting up the sewing computer
Thread tension
The basic setting
The tension is factory set for the best results.
Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
•
is indicated when the red line on the tension
3
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
the tension does not need adjusting for normal
•
A
sewing work
•
for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
5
For example:
To reduce the tension
turn to between 3 and 1
Tension
Needle
90
To increase the tension
Metallic thread approx. 3
turn to between 5 and 10
Monofilament
approx. 2–4
80
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Operating instructions
21
General instructions
Main switch to 1
•
the sewing sewing computer is ready to sew
The screen shows
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly
2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly
3 needle position (9 positions)
4 needle stop up/down (generally up)
5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch)
1
3
4
5
6
6 presser foot number 1 indicator (recommended foot
for selected stitch)
2
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22
Operating instructions
Stitch* selection
•
stitches 1–10:
touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and
length settings appear
Note: touch «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole)
•
to select stitches 11–30 (activa 135 S) or 11–50 (activa 145 S):
touch #-button and the appropriate number
* see p. 30 for the complete stitch selection; for activa 135 S PE see appendix A1
Stitch width
•
left button = narrow the stitch width
•
right button = widen the stitch width
•
the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
Needle position
•
left button = needle to the left
•
right button = needle to the right
Stitch length
•
left button = shorten the stitch length
•
right button = increase the stitch length
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Operating instructions
23
Functions
Functions are ...
activated when the symbol appears on the screen.
deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen.
Reverse sewing
quick reverse:
Needle stop
•
basic setting needle stop up
press button
•
•
•
press button
•
Sewing computer sews reverse until button
arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down
is released (max. stitch length 3 mm)
•
•
Applications:
press button again
arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
•
programming buttonholes
•
programming darning program
•
switch to straight stitch securing program
(stitch No. 5)
Note:
•
manual securing (seam begin and end)
Press key a bit longer = the needle will go auto-
matically up or down.
continous reverse:
•
press button quickly twice
•
the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
Stitch end
•
in reverse
press button
•
•
press button once to cancel
sewing computer stops at the end of a single
stitch or stitch combination (in Memory)
1/2 speed
•
press the button and the sewing speed will be
halved
Mirror image*
•
•
press the button again to revert to full speed
press button
•
mirror image of selected stitch will be sewn
*activa 145 S only
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24
Operating instructions
#-button
Stitch selection button (see p. 22)
mem (Memory)
•
press the centre button to open memory
(capacity of 30)
use the left and «mem »-buttons to scroll and
+
•
programme stitches, letters and numbers
clr/del (clear/delete)
Altered Stitch Memory
•
•
press button = reverts to basic settings
any stitch length or width alterations will be
•
other selected functions are cleared
saved automatically
Exceptions:
For example:
•
•
needle stop down
sew altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
•
•
1/2 speed
select another stitch, e.g. straight stitch
•
•
altered basic settings for buttonholes =
return to zig-zag, your alterations are still
press «clr/del»-button twice
active
Return to basic settings
•
Letters, numbers and punctuation marks
(only activa 145 S)
basic settings can be restored manually for
individual stitches
•
•
press the alphabet button
all altered settings are lost when the
•
letters appear on the screen
press the right button to scroll letters and
«clr/del»-button is pressed or when the
sewing computer is turned off
•
numbers forwards (A B C ...)
•
press the left button to scroll letters and
numbers backwards (9 8 7 ...)
Application:
•
for all stitches and fabrics
•
particularly useful for switching between
Alphabet contents
different applications
ABCEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVXYZ
_-.’! ? % ( ) [ ] Ä Ö Ü Å ÆŒØÑÈÉÊÀÂ
0123456789
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Operating instructions
25
Memory
Any combination of 30 stitches, letters or numbers can be saved
in Memory, which is long term. They remain saved until deleted
by the user. Power failures or disconnection from the electricity
supply do not affect the Memory. Alterations to the stitch length,
width or needle position can be made at any time. Individual
stitches, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.
Memory buttons
Example: saved stitch
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
•
•
press left button (<) to scroll
saved stitch (28) is shown
contents backwards
•
press centre button (mem) to
To program stitches see p. 25
open and close Memory
+
•
press right button (mem )
to scroll contents forwards
Open Memory
Example: saved letter
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
•
•
press «mem»-button to open
Memory
saved letter (E) is shown
•
if the Memory is empty, the
cursor and number 30 (=
empty memories) blink
if the Memory is not empty,
the saved stitches, letters or
numbers appear on the
screen; scroll forwards until
the cursor and number of
empty memories blink
To program letters and numbers
see p. 27
•
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26
Operating instructions
Delete complete Memory
Scroll backwards
•
press «clr/del» and «mem»-
button at the same time
release both buttons
press left button = the pro-
grammed stitch numbers scroll
backwards
•
•
leave Memory by pressing the
mem button
Memory is now completely
Scroll forwards
press «mem »-button = the
+
•
deleted
programmed stitch numbers
scroll forwards
Begin sewing
•
press the foot control = the
sewing computer starts auto-
matically at the beginning of
a stitch sequence
Programming practical and
decorative stitches
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
•
open Memory (p. 25)
•
select Pattern End ( ) as well
= the sewing computer stops
automatically at the end of a
stitch sequence
•
select stitch (p. 22)
•
stitch number appears on the
screen (here 21)
+
•
press «mem » to program
(save)
Note:
•
the number of remaining
The following special programs
cannot be saved in Memory:
No. 5, Securing program
Nos. 10–12, Buttonholes
No.13, Button sewing-on
program
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
•
select next stitch, press
+
«mem » and continue in
this manner
No. 14, Darning program
No. 15, Basting stitch
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Operating instructions
27
Programming letters, numbers
and punctuation marks
(activa 145 S only)
Corrections in Memory
Changing individual stitches,
letters and numbers
•
open Memory (p. 25)
•
•
press Alphabet button
scroll with the right or left
•
select letter or number (p. 24)
press «mem » to program
button to find the stitch you
want to change or correct
+
•
•
(save)
then correct or change:
•
the number of remaining
stitch
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
letter
number
stitch length or width
needle position
etc.
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
•
select next letter/number,
+
press «mem » and continue
in this manner
programme single words or
sentences/numbers
select (_) to program spacing
+
•
•
press «mem » to save the
change(s)
•
Delete single stitch, letter or
number
Note:
•
If the stitch length and/or
width of letters or numbers
have been altered, the altera-
tions will affect all of them.
If you only want to alter
single letters or numbers, this
must be done individually.
scroll to find the stitch
press «clr/del» to delete
stitch/letter/number is deleted
•
•
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28
Operating instructions
Leave Memory
•
press «mem»-button =
contents are saved
•
Memory is closed
«mem»-symbol disappears from
the screen
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
The contents of the memory
remain saved even when the
sewing computer is dis-
connected from the electricity
supply. They can be recalled
at any time.
The contents of the memory
will be lost if the sewing com-
puter is switched off without
pressing the mem button
before closing the memory.
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Operating instructions
29
Balance
Your sewing computer has
been tested and factory set
using a double layer of
cretonne fabric and Metrosene
100/2 threads (Arova Mettler,
Switzerland).
Different fabrics, threads and
stabilisers can naturally affect
the stitch balance so that they
are sewn too close together or
not close enough.
Applications:
Practical stitches, e.g.
Honeycomb stitch on jersey,
decorative stitches, fantasy stit-
ches, letters, buttonholes, etc.
This can be remedied with
Balance to suit the fabric and
produce perfect results.
Note:
Normal position
Denser stitch formation
Finer stitch formation
If the balance has been
adjusted, return it to the
normal setting once sewing
is completed.
(shorter stitch length)
(longer stitch length)
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30
Stitches
Stitches*
activa 135 S
activa 145 S
Practical and decorative
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Straight stitch
Zig-zag
Vari-overlock
Running stitch
Securing stitch
Triple straight and zig-zag
Blind stitch
Double overlock
Super stretch stitch
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straight stitch buttonhole
13 Button sewing-on program
14 Darning program
15 Basting stitch
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
17 Universal stitch
18 Gathering stitch
19 Honeycomb stitch
activa 135 S
20–22 Quilting stitches
23–30 Decorative stitches
activa 145 S
20–28 Quilting stitches
29–50 Decorative stitches
*activa 135 S PE see appendix A1
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Stitches
31
Stitch selection*
1
2
3
4
5
6
Straight stitch
Zig-zag
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work
2
1
3
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine
fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace
Vari-overlock
Running stitch
Securing stitch
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams
5
4
6
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch
Triple straight and
triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics
7
8
9
Blind stitch
Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
7
8
Double overlock
Super stretch
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation
Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics
*activa 135 S PE see appendix A
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32
Stitches
14 Darning program
19 Honeycomb stitch
20 Quilt/hand stitching
Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics
14
19
20
Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams
and hems
Hand stitched effect: only the one stitch (lower thread) is visible;
the other stitch (upper thread = monofilament) is invisible; increase
upper thread tension to suit the fabric (6–9)
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straigth stitch buttonhole
Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
10
12
11
Heavy weight, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers,
leisure wear, etc.
Pre-stitch program for bound buttonholes (Foot No. 3A) or pocket
openings (Foot No. 3, special accessory)
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Presser feet
33
Standard foot selection
3A
1
2
1
2
3A
Buttonhole foot with slide
4
Reverse pattern foot
Overlock foot
Zipper foot
Practical and decorative stitches Overlock seam, hems, oversewing Buttonhole on smooth fabrics,
Sewing in zips
edges, narrow satin stitch
darning
5
37
20
9
5
9
20
37
Blind stitch foot
Darning foot
Open Embroidery foot
Patchwork foot
Blind hems, edge stitching
Freehand quilting for light to
medium weight quilts; darning
Patchwork with seam allowance
1/4” or 1/8” (≈ 6 or 3 mm)
activa 135 S = 6 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9)
activa 135 S PE = 7 feet (1, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 20, 37)
activa 145 S = 7 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 37)
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34
Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program
Securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Securing program No. 5*
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton/polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
raised (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Securing program
•
for all fabrics
•
secures seam begin and end
•
sews exactly over the previous stitches
Seam begin
•
sewing computer secures automatically (5 stitches forwards,
5 reverse)
•
continues sewing straight stitch forwards
Seam end
•
press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 forwards)
•
stops automatically when securing is complete
* 135 S PE see appendix A2
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Selected practical stitches: Basting stitch
35
Basting stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Basting stitch No. 15 (activa 135 S PE No. 14)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton/polyester
lowered (darning position)
No. 9
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Basting stitch
•
for all work which requires a very long stitch
•
for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
•
easy to remove
Preparation:
•
pin work horizontally to basting direction to prevent the
layers slipping
Basting
•
lower the feed-dog
•
position work under the presser foot and sew one stitch;
hold threads when starting to sew
•
pull work from behind to the required length of the stitch
•
sew one stitch and repeat the procedure
Securing/fixing the thread
TIP
•
sew a few basting stitches at the beginning and end of a seam
Basting
•
use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove
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Selected practical stitches: Blind hem
Blind hem
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Blind stitch No. 7
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Blind stitch foot No. 5
Blind hem
for «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool
and blended fabrics
Preparation
•
neaten raw edges
•
prepare seam as for sewing by hand
•
place work under the presser foot (see drawing)
5
Sewing
Wrong side of
fabric
•
the needle should just pierce
the edge of the fold (same as
hand sewing)
•
•
adjust the stitch width to suit
the fabric
after sewing about 10 cm
(4"), check both sides of
fabric and adjust width again
if necessary
TIP
Wrong side of
fabric
Fine stitch width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly
along the metal guide on the
foot = even depth
Right side of fabric
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Selected practical stitches: Darning
37
Darning program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Darning Program No.14 (activa 135 S PE No. 13)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
darning thread
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Buttonhole foot No. 3A
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replacement of damaged fibres/threads
Darning with Reverse pattern foot No.1 (auto stitch counter)
•
insert needle in top left of damaged area
•
sew the first length and stop the sewing computer
•
press the securing button: length is programmed
•
complete the darn; the sewing computer stops automatically
TIP
Large areas:
Reinforcement
•
the darning area can be extended by moving the work
under the foot
use fine fabric or interlining as
a backing
•
clear the programme by pressing the «clr/del»-button
Preparation
Darning with Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
stretch fabric into darning
ring* prevents puckering
•
use for small tears and damaged areas, not more than
1
3 cm (1 / ”) long
4
•
use same method as with foot No. 1
*The darning ring is available as a
special accessory
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38
Selected practical stitches: Zippers
Zippers
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
up (sewing position)
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Zipper foot No. 4
far right or far left
Preparation:
•
baste in zipper
fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
4
•
Sewing
•
sew in the zipper, each side from bottom to top
•
once with needle position far right and once with
needle position far left
•
the edge of the foot runs along the teeth of the zip
•
the needle inserts close to the teeth
To sew around zipper pull
Seam begin
Zipper or fabric is thick or
densely woven
use a 90–100 needle for even
stitch formation
TIP
•
close zipper and sew up to
hold thread firmly when
starting to sew = pull fabric
slightly to the back (fewer
stitches)
about 5 cm (2") away from
the pull
•
insert needle, raise the
presser foot, open the zipper,
lower the foot and continue
to sew
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
39
Everything you need to know about buttonholes
Thread tension
•
thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case = the bobbin tension is
a little tighter
•
•
this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded appearance
the buttonhole looks more attractive
· gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance (pages 47, 48)
Buttonholes are not only
practical closures, they can
also be used to decorative
effect
Select the buttonhole of your
choice (No. 10 or 11);
the following appears on the
screen:
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
Mark the length of
automatic buttonholes
Mark the length of manual
buttonholes
Mark the length of keyhole
buttonholes
•
•
•
mark the length of just
mark the buttonhole length
mark the bead length only
•
one buttonhole
in the appropriate position
the correct length eye will be
added when the buttonhole
is sewn
1
3
•
•
after sewing the first
stitch using buttonhole foot
buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is
automatically programmed
No. 3 (optional accessory)
2
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol
3 Presser foot number
•
mark only the beginning of
all subsequent buttonholes
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Test sewing
TIP
•
always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
•
•
select the buttonhole type you intend to use
sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or
against the grain)
•
•
cut the buttonhole open
push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length if
necessary
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
•
alter the stitch width
•
altered stitch widths can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»-
button
Altering the stitch length:
•
any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (denser or
less dense)
altered stitch length can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»-
button
If a buttonhole is to be sewn at
right angles to a seam, we
recommend the use of the but-
tonhole leveler. Insert the plate
from behind between the
•
fabric and the foot up to and
over the thicker area.
Note:
Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes
•
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
any balance alterations to the 6-step manual and auto length
buttonholes affects both beads identically because they are sewn
in the same direction
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
41
Automatic standard buttonhole with auto length
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Note:
The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie perfectly flat on
the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measu-
red accurately.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Standard buttonhole No. 10
size and type suitable for fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic standard buttonhole
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 39)
3A
•
when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the button-
hole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
•
each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
Note:
When any automatic buttonhole is selected,
presser foot No. 3 is indicated on the screen.
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Programme the standard buttonhole
TIP
1 sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
•
«auto» and presser foot No. 3A are indicated on the screen =
Exact duplicates
the buttonhole length is programmed
the auto function ensures that
each buttonhole will be exactly
the same length as the pre-
vious one
1
2 the sewing computer sews reverse straight stitch automatically
3 the first bar tack
4 the second bead forwards
Marking
5 the second bar tack and securing stitches
mark only the beginning of the
buttonholes – a real time
saver!
2
3
4
5
•
sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole
begin
Auto buttonhole
Sewing speed
•
•
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same
sew at moderate speed for
length (no need to press the reverse button)
best results
•
•
press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
sew all buttonholes at the
•
the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long term
same speed for a consistent
bead density
memory (see p. 49)
Corrections see p. 40
Balance
Compensating plates for
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
buttonholes (special accessory)
If a buttonhole is to be sewn
horizontally to the edge of the
garment, it is worth using the
compensating plates.
•
any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto length
buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the same direction
This accessory provides an even
surface for the buttonhole foot
with slide which results in a per-
fect buttonhole (see tips p. 40).
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
43
Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto length
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Keyhole buttonhole No. 11
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 37)
•
when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the button-
3A
hole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
Marking the keyhole buttonhole
•
mark the bead length only. The correct eye length will be added
when the buttonhole is sewn.
•
each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Programming the buttonhole
1 sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing
TIP
computer,
•
press the reverse button
Exact duplicates
•
auto and presser foot No. 3A are displayed on
the auto function ensures
that each buttonhole will be
exactly the same length as
the previous one
1
the screen = buttonhole length is programmed
2 the sewing computer automatically sews the eye
3 the first bead in reverse
4 sews second straight stitch
5 sews second bead in reverse
Marking
6 sews bartack and securing stitches
mark only the beginning of
the buttonholes – a real time
saver!
2
3
4
5
6
•
the sewing computer stops and returns automatically
to buttonhole begin
Auto buttonhole
Double sewn keyhole
buttonholes
•
all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically
•
to the same length (without pressing the reverse button)
keyhole buttonholes can be
•
Press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
sewn twice on thick fabrics
•
•
the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long
after sewing the first button-
term memory (see p. 49)
Corrections see p. 40
Balance
hole, do not move the work
simply tap the foot control
once to begin sewing again
•
•
any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
length buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the
same direction
any distortions to keyhole buttonholes can be corrected
•
with balance
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
45
Manual buttonhole (all types)
Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single buttonholes or for repairing
existing buttonholes.
Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated. The number of steps
corresponds to the buttonhole type. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3 (optional accessory)
Preparation
•
select the desired buttonhole
•
screen shows:
buttonhole number (10 or 11)
presser foot No. 3
the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks on the
screen)
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin
case
Always test sew buttonholes
•
test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
•
sew buttonholes in the same grain direction
(with or against)
Note: Corrections see p. 40
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46
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin)
1
2
•
press the reverse button
3 sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
4 sew the bartack and the securing stitches
4
3
Manual keyhole buttonhole
Sew both forward and reverse beads at the same speed.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew straight stitch forwards, stop the sewing computer, press the reverse button
2 sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
1
2
3 sew straight stitch forwards and stop at the keyhole, press the quick
reverse button
4 sew the second bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch
(buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
3
4
5
5 sew bartack and securing stitches
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
47
Buttonhole with gimp
3A
3A
•
Gimp
Hooking the cord in the but-
tonhole foot with slide No. 3A
bring the cords to the front of
the foot
Hooking the cord onto presser
foot No. 3
•
gimp cord reinforces button-
•
•
holes and enhances their
appearance
insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
•
•
•
the loop of the cord should
be at the end of the button-
hole most subject to wear
cord loop = where button is
sewn on
position the work accordingly
gimp cord is particularly
recommended for standard
and stretch buttonholes
raise the presser foot
guide the cord under the foot
to the right
hook the cord over the pin at
raise the presser foot
hook the cord over the centre
pin on the front of the foot
•
•
•
•
•
the back of the foot
pull them into the slit
sew the buttonhole
•
•
Sewing
•
sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
•
Ideal cords
do not hold the cord tightly
•
•
Perle yarn No. 8
the buttonhole will form over
•
strong hand sewing thread
the cord, covering it
•
fine crochet yarn
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48
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
•
place both ends of the cord
in the grooves on the sole of
Securing the cord
Cutting buttonholes open
with the seam ripper
Buttonhole cutter and block
(special accessory)
•
pull the cord through the
•
•
the foot and pull them to the
back
buttonhole
pull cords through to back of
use the back of the seam
ripper to nick the stitches
place the fabric on the wood
place the cutter in the centre
•
•
•
•
lower the presser foot
fabric
cut from both ends towards
of the buttonhole
•
•
knot or secure with stitches
the middle
press down on the cutter
Sewing
with your hand or a hammer
•
sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
•
do not hold the cord tightly
•
the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
49
Programmed buttonholes
Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory
+
•
after programming press the «mem »-button
•
the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory
Opening saved buttonholes
Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the sewing computer
has been disconnected.
•
select the buttonhole
•
press the «mem»-button
•
sew the programmed buttonhole
•
only one of any style buttonhole can be saved, if a new length is saved
with «mem », it overwrites the previously saved buttonhole
+
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50
Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program
Button sewing-on program
Stitch:
Stitch width
Needle:
Button sewing-on program No. 13 (activa 135 S PE No. 12)
depends on distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
down (darning position)
Foot No. 9
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Sewing on buttons
•
sews buttons with 2 or 4 holes
•
buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only
can be stitched without forming a thread shank
•
the length of the shank (= thread between button and fabric)
can be made shorter or longer as required with foot No. 18
Sewing on buttons with foot No. 9
•
select Button Sew-on program
•
sew the securing stitches; hold the threads when starting to sew
•
check distances between holes with the handwheel and adjust
stitch width if necessary
•
sew
•
sewing computer stops automatically when program is
completed and is ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
•
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For added security
•
after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
through to the wrong side and knot
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Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program
51
Sewing on buttons with foot No.18
•
set the shank length with the screw on the foot
select Button sewing-on program and continue as
with foot No. 9 (p. 50)
TIP
4-hole button
•
•
sew the front holes
•
Beginning and ending threads
carefully move the button
•
the threads are secured and can be trimmed
forward
•
sew the back holes
•
For added security
cut the diagonal joining
•
after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
thread
through to the wrong side and knot or
•
using the upper thread ends to sew a «shank» by hand
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Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
Vari-overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
2
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
•
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
•
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
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Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
53
Double overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Double overlock No. 8
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
Thread:
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
2
Closed seam
overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys
Sewing
•
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
•
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
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54
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
Ribbing with overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57)
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
2
Back view
Ribbing with overlock seam
for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
•
fold ribbing in half
•
pin and baste to opening, right side outside
Sewing
•
sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
•
guide the edge along the pin on the foot
Front view
TIP
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
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Selected practical stitches: Honeycomb stitch
55
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Honeycomb No. 19 (activa 135 S PE No. 15)
universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.1
Ribbing with visible seam
for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side
Sewing
•
sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
•
trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
Balance/corrections
TIP
Note:
After sewing return balance
to the normal setting!
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
bring stitch together
open out stitch
you stop to adjust the ribbing
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56
Needles, Threads
Important facts about sewing computer needles
Sewing computer, needle and thread
Needle
70
80
90
100
110–120
Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.
Darning thread
Embroidery thread
•
•
•
•
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table
shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
Mercerised
cotton thread
•
•
Synthetic thread
•
Thick threads,
synthetic mercerised
thread
•
•
•
Needle appropriate
for thread
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Needle inappropriate
for thread
If the needle is too fine, the
groove will be too narrow for
the thread and faulty stitching
or thread breakage can occur.
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
seams (cordonnet)
•
Needle and fabric
Condition of needle
The needle must be in perfect
condition. Problems can occur
with damaged needles.
hooked needle
bent needle
blunt needle
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Needles
57
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
Needle table
Description
Needle point
Suitable for
Standard
needle
130/705 H
Normal point,
slightly
rounded
Universal needle for woven, needle synthetic and
natural fibers, e.g. linen, chiffon, batiste, organdie,
wool, satin, decorative stitching, embroidery
Special
needles
130/705-SES
Fine ball point
Fine knits, especially for synthetic fibers
130/705 H-SUK Medium ball
point
Heavier knits in synthetic or natural fibers
Special needle for delicate or difficult stretch fabrics
130/705 H-S
130/705 H-J
Medium ball
point
Extra fine point Overalls, heavy linen, denim, canvas.
Pierces dense fabrics easily
130/705
H-LR + H-LL
Cutting point
Natural and synthetic leather, plastic, coated
and waxed fabric
Double needle 130/705 H
Widths:
1,6 / 2,0 / 2,5
3,0 / 4,0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks,
decorative sewing
ZWI
Triple needle
130/705 H
DRI
Widths:
2,5 / 3,0
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch
needle
130/705 H
HO
Width:
2,0
Hemstitch in loose weaves
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58
Needle, thread, fabric feed
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short.
The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all
sewn with a very short stitch length.
Important
Let the fabric feed evenly!
Pulling or pushing will result in
gaps.
Holding back will result in
knots.
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Needle, thread, fabric feed
59
Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates
1
1
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g.
Uneven layers
To correct the height in front of
the foot, place one or more
plates to the right of the foot
close to the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and remove
the plates.
when sewing over thick to thin
or vice-versa, the feed-dog
cannot grip and feed the fabric
and the fabric hangs up.
To solve this problem, place
one, two or three compensa-
ting plates as required behind
the needle under the presser
foot.
Thick fabrics: feed-dog and sewing corners
The gap between the two rows
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
of teeth is relatively large due
to the width of the stitch plate
hole.
When sewing corners only a
small section of the fabric is
actually on the feed-dog so
that it cannot grip the fabric
well.
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60
Cleaning and maintenance
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a
warm room about one hour before use.
Cleaning
Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
•
Clean the sewing computer after every use
wipe with a damp cloth
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
remove presser foot and needle
open the free-arm cover
unscrew the stitch plate (with screwdriver
TORX)
lift and remove it
clean the area with the brush
CAUTION
•
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
•
•
•
•
replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
Lubricating
•
•
turn power switch to «0»
squeeze 2–3 drops of oil into the hook race
run the machine for a short time without
thread to prevent oil soiling your work
•
•
remove the bobbin case
•
push the release lever to the left
•
push the locking lever to the left and fold
down the hook race cover
•
remove the hook
•
clean the hook race with a cloth or brush,
never use a sharp instrument
•
replace the hook, turning the handwheel if
Important!
necessary so that the hook driver is on the left
close the hook race cover and secure with the
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any
type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
•
locking lever, the locking pin must engage
•
check by turning the handwheel
•
insert the bobbin case
Refer to the safety instruction!
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Cleaning and maintenance
61
Sewing light
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Note:
Use bulb type
12 V 5 W.
W 2.1 x 9.5 d.
Replacing the bulb
•
•
•
•
•
turn power switch to «0»
remove the cover by lifting it
slightliy and detaching from
the top
remove the bulb
insert the new bulb
replace cover and tighten
screw
Light bulbs get hot.
Allow to cool down before
removal.
•
loosen the screw
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Replacing the Sewing Light**
Contrary to an ordinary bulb,
Caution:
the CFL sewing light has
a better illumination and a
longer life.
Please note that a defective
CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized
technician. The sewing com-
puter must be brought to an
authorized BERNINA dealer!
Please refer to the safety instructions!
** Available as a special accessory
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62
Faults
Trouble shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults
by checking the following.
Check whether:
Skipped stitches
Faulty stitching
•
•
•
the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
Wrong needles used.
Remnants of thread between
•
the needle is inserted correctly
Use only 130/705H system.
the tension discs.
•
•
•
the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 57
The needle is blunt, bent or
Remnants of thread under
•
the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff
incorrectly inserted.
the bobbin case spring.
•
•
•
the hook race is clean
Push right to the top when
Lower thread still threaded in
•
any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the
inserting.
the bobbin case finger.
•
•
bobbin case spring
Needle inserted all the way
Sewing computer threaded
•
the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need
to the top.
with foot down.
•
•
removing
The needle point does not
Incorrect threading. Check
suit the fabric being sewn.
If necessary use a ball point
for knitted fabrics and
upper and lower threads.
Use the correct spool disc.
•
Upper thread breaks
Lower thread breaks
•
•
The upper thread tension
The lower thread tension is
is too tight.
too tight.
cutting point for hard leather.
•
•
The needles are of a poor
The bobbin is jamming in
the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
Sewing computer fails to run
or runs slowly
quality. Ideally needles should
be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
•
Needle breaks
Plug not properly inserted.
•
•
•
The hole in the stitch plate
Needle clamp screw loose.
Power switch in off position.
•
•
•
The needle is bent or blunt.
Poor quality, knotted or dried
has been damaged by the
needle. This must be
Fabric taken out in front
instead of behind presser foot.
Sewing computer has been
standing in a cold room.
•
•
•
out thread has been used.
repolished by an expert.
When sewing over thick area,
Bobbin winder still switched
•
•
Use the correct spool disc.
Stitch plate or hook tip
The needle is blunt or bent.
the fabric was pushed with
the needle still in the fabric.
on.
•
•
damaged. Take your sewing
computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
Poor quality thread, unevenly
wound or knotted.
See pages 56 and 57 for
•
information about needles
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63
Index
A
D
H
Accessory box 8, 9
Darning program 37
Handlook quilt stitch A5
Honeycomb stitch 55
Details of the sewing computer 4–7
Double blanket stitch A3
Double overlock seam 53
B
I
Balance 29, 49, 55
Basting stitch 35
Blanket stitch A3
Blind hem 36
Inserting the bobbin 14
F
Fabric cover
8
K
Bobbin 12
Bobbin case 13
Fabric feed, Needles, Threads 56–59
Feather stitch A6
Keyhole buttonhole 43
Knits and jersey 52, 53
Bobbin thread cutter 13
Bringing up the lower thread 18
Button sewing-on program 50
Buttonholes 39–49
Feed-dog 18, 58
Foot control 10
Functions 23
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
L
#-button 24
1/2 speed 23
clr/del (clear/delete) 24
Letters 24
mem (Memory) 24
Mirror image 23
Needle stop 23
Reverse sewing 23
Stitch end 23
•
Altering buttonholes 49
Letters programming 27
Lower thread 18
•
Automatic keyhole buttonhole 43
•
Automatic standard buttonhole 41
Lens Set
8
•
Buttonhole with gimp 47
•
Manual buttonhole 45
•
M
Programmed buttonholes 49
Maintenance 60, 61
Memory 25
C
•
•
•
•
•
Balance 29
Changing the needle 14
Changing the presser foot 15
CFL 8, 61
Corrections in Memory 27
Leave Memory 28
Memory buttons 25
Open Memory 25
Cleaning 60
Compensating plates 59
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64
Index
R
T
•
•
Programming letters, numbers and
punctuation marks 27
Programming practical and decorative
stitches 26
Ribbing with overlock seam 54
Reverse sewing 23
Threads, Fabric feed, Needles 56–59
Thread cutter 12, 18
Thread tension 20
•
•
Scroll backwards/forwards 26
Stitches 30, 31, 32
Threading the upper thread 16
Trouble shooting 62
S
Screen shows 21
Seam guide 11
N
U
Securing program 34
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch 55
Sewing light 61, 8
Sewing table 11
Single blanket stitch A3
Spool pin 15
Needle position 22
Needles, Threads, Fabric feed 56–59
Needle Threader 17
Upper thread 16
V
Vari-overlock seam 52
O
Standard accessories
8
Overlock seam 54
Standard buttonhole 41
Stiches 30, A1
W
Stipple stitch A4
Stitch length/width 22
Stitch plate 19
Stitch selection 22
Stretch fabrics 52, 53
Supplementary spool pin 15
Winding the bobbin 12
P
Power cable 10
Presser feet 33
Presser foot lifter 11
Z
Zippers 38
Q
Quilters securing program A2
Quilt stitch (Handlook quilt stitch) A5
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Contents
65
2
4
Important safety Instructions
Details
10
21
30
33
Setting up the sewing computer
Operating instructions
Stitches
Presser feet
Selected practical stitches:
• Securing program
• Basting stitch
34
35
36
37
38
39
50
52
55
56
60
63
• Blind hem
• Darning program
• Zippers
• Buttonholes
• Button sewing-on program
• Overlock
• Honeycomb
Needle, Thread, Fabric Feed
Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting
Index
A1–A6 Appendix
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Impressum
Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi
Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
© copyright 2003 by Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn
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activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stitches
A1
Stitches
activa 135 S PE
Practical
a 135 S
a 145 S
a 135 S PE 7 feet standard
6 feet standard
7 feet standard
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Straight stitch
Zig-zag
Vari-overlock
Running stitch
Quilters securing program
Triple straight and zig-zag
Blind stitch
Double overlock
Blanket stitch
–#2
+#20
+#37
2
5
8
0
1
3
6
9
4
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Button sewing-on program
13 Darning program
14 Basting stitch
15 Honeycomb stitch
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
17 Universal stitch
7
clr
del
#
18 Gathering stitch
11
16
21
26
12
17
22
27
13
18
23
28
14
19
24
29
15
Quilting stitches
19 Stipple stitch
20 Handlook Quilt stitch
21 Double blanket stitch
22 Feather stitch
20
25
30
23–30 Decorative stitches
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A2
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Straight stitch with securing program
Quilters securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Quilters securing program No. 5
80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
cotton/polyester or Monofilament for the upper thread
and cotton or polyester for the lower thread
raised (sewing position)
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
Securing program
TIP
•
for all fabrics
•
•
secures seam begin and end
when quilting, the quilt
securing program can be
combined for example with
the handlook quilt stitch
No. 20
Seam begin
•
sewing computer secures automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
•
continues sewing straight stitch forwards
•
for work which is likely to be
subjected to heavy wear or
laundering, use straight stitch
No. 1 for securing
Seam end
•
press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
•
stops automatically when securing is complete
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activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Blanket stitch
A3
Blanket stitch
Stitch: Single blanket stitch No. 9 or Double blanket stitch No. 21
Needle: 80
Thread: machine thread
Feed-dog: sewing
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20
Needle position: center
Preparation
•
cut desired applique shapes
•
fuse or baste as desired to a background fabric
Sewing
•
place the fabric under the needle and position it so the wide
TIP
portion of the stitch will form on the applique and the straight
portion will fall just outside of it on the background fabric
•
for a hand-stitched look,
•
stitch around entire applique shape
increase the stitch length and
width when appliqueing
heavy fabrics such as felt,
flannel, and Ultra Suede®
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A4
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stipple stitch
Stipple stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stipple stitch No. 19
80
machine thread
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
center
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Preparation
•
prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
•
pin or baste layers together
Sewing
•
place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the stipple
stitch as desired across the fabric.
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activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Handlook quilting
A5
Handlook quilt stitch
Stitch: Hand-look quilt stitch No. 20
Needle: 80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
Thread: 0.044 monofilament for the upper thread and
40 or 30 weight cotton for the lower thread
Feed-dog: sewing
Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
Needle position: as desired
Tension: tighten to 6–9
Balance: adjust if necessary
Preparation
•
prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
•
pin or baste layers together
Sewing
•
place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the hand-
look quilt stitch as desired across the fabric
TIP
•
•
the bobbin thread should pull to the surface of the fabric and
give the appearance of a hand-sewn running stitch
moderate speed for best
results
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A6
activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Feather stitch
Feather stitch
Stitch:
Feather stitch No. 22
Needle:
Thread:
80
machine thread
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
sewing
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20
center
Needle position:
Use this delicate embroidery stitch to embellish fabric or
to cover patchwork seams.
Preparation
•
piece patchwork shapes as desired
Sewing
•
place the fabric under the needle and position it so the center
portion of the stitch will fall «in-the-ditch» of the seam
•
stitch, embellishing seams as desired
TIP
•
for variety, increase or
decrease the length and
width of the pre-programmed
feather stitch
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