Operation, Installation and
Instruction Manual
for
Reach-In and Roll-In
Refrigerators, Freezers and Warmers
BMIL International, Inc.
A Division of BALMAC International, Inc.
61 Broadway, Suite 1900 • New York, NY 10006-2701
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RECEIVING YOUR NEW MODEL
Congratulations on your recent purchase of Bally refrigerator superior food
equipment products! When your shipment arrives, please thoroughly examine the
shipping crate for any punctures, dents, or signs of rough handling. It is in your best
interest to partially remove or open the shipping container in order to examine the
model for any concealed damages which may have occurred during shipment. If
the model is damaged, it must be noted on the delivering carrier's delivery slip or bill
of lading (see "filing a damage claim" under warranty section).
GENERAL INFORMATION AND IMPORTANT OPERATING FACTS
This manual has been compiled to aid in the installation, operation and
maintenance of your new equipment. Please take the time to read all of the material
in order to become more familiar with your equipment and its operation, and enjoy
optimum performance.
Important Note: All value and designer line freezers have an energy-saving fan
delay control to prevent the interior fans from operating until the evaporator coil
becomes chilled. Therefore, on initial start-up, the fans will not turn on immediately.
This is a normal mode of operation. Allow sufficient time for the evaporator coil to
reach its operating temperature (approximately 20 minutes).
No floor drains or plumbing connections are required since all models are
completely self-defrosting and use an automatic defrost condensate water
evaporating system (see "condensate evaporator installation" under installation and
location section).
All cabinets must be given sufficient time to reach normal operating temperature
before placing any food inside. For refrigerators, approximately 2 hours of operation
are required to lower the cabinet temperature to 40 degrees f. Freezers require
approximately 4 hours of operation to lower the cabinet temperature to 0 degrees f
(see "operation" section for further information).
Never overload top shelf with product so as to block or restrict cabinet airflow.
Doing so will result in poor performance, decrease in efficiency and possible need
for service to de-ice evaporator.
Prior to factory shipping, all models are performance run tested for a minimum of 12
hours providing a highly sophisticated temperature analysis recording exclusive to
each individual cabinet. This recording is supplied within this manual packet. A final
leak check, vibration, noise level and visual examination is made by a qualified
quality control team to assure a quality product. The carrier signs to this effect when
he accepts the product for shipping. To insure the maximum in safety and
sanitation, all models are listed under the reexamination service of underwriter's
laboratories and with the national sanitation foundation.
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UNCRATING YOUR NEW MODEL
The shipping container should remain on your model as protection against dents or
scratches while transporting it to the actual set-up location. Remove the shipping
container only at the last possible moment by following these simple steps:
1. Using a pry bar, pry off and remove crate end bottom staples.
2. Pry off and remove crate front and rear bottom staples.
3. Slide crate upward and remove it, being careful not to rub against cabinet.
There are up to four (4) bolts securing the cabinet to the wooden skid. The bolts are
located at each end on the underside of the skid. In order to remove these bolts it is
advisable to tilt the cabinet backwards and place wooden blocks at each end in
order to hold it in its tilted position. Using a 3/4" socket or open end wrench, remove
the bolts and carefully slide the model off of the skid. After skid removal, the cabinet
should never be moved without dollies or rollers to avoid damage to the cabinet
bottom or floor.
Important Note: Do not under any circumstances lay your new model on its
front or sides. Only for a brief period, may you lay the model on its back and only
then, when its properly blocked so as not to crush the condensate drain tubing and
also to allow provision for your hands in order to set it in its upright position without
inflicting damage to the cabinet. Do not plug in and operate model for at least
three (3) hours after cabinet is set upright from being on its back as damage
could result to the compressor.
INSTALLATION AND LOCATION
CLEARANCES
Before moving the cabinet to its final point of installation, accurately measure all
doorways or passages to assure clearance. If additional clearance is needed,
cabinet doors and grill can be easily removed (see instructions outlined in "removal
of doors" and "removal of grill" sections).
VENTILATION
The final location site of your air cooled refrigerator or freezer must be able to
provide a large quantity of cool, clean air. The refrigeration system operates most
efficiently and trouble-free with cool, dry air circulation. Avoid locations near heat
and moisture generating equipment such as stoves, ovens, cooking ranges, fryers,
dish washers, steam kettles, etc., and also direct sunlight where temperatures can
be in excess of 100 degrees f. Also, do not select a location in an unheated room or
area where temperatures may drop below 55 degrees f. Air supply to the
condensing unit is equally important. Restricting the air supply will place an
excessive heat load on the condensing unit and adversely effect its operating
efficiency.
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Important Note: To assure sufficient air supply and circulation to the
condensing unit, a minimum clearance of 12" above the grill and 3" on each
side and back of the cabinet must be provided (see figure 1). If necessary,
special venting or air supply ducts must be installed by the installer for this purpose.
Do not at any time obstruct the grill area in front of the cabinet in any way, and
never place or store anything on top of the cabinet machine compartment. These
rules are essential for maximum cooling capacity and long life of refrigeration parts.
FIGURE 1
MINIMUM CLEARANCE DIMENSIONS
FLOOR LOADS
The floor at the final location site must be level, free of vibration and strong enough
to support the total combined weights of your new model plus the maximum
product load which might be placed into it. A fully loaded reach-in or roll-in model
may reach 2,000 - 3,000 pounds. To estimate the possible product load weight,
assume that each cubic foot of storage space weighs approximately 35 pounds.
Multiply 35 pounds by the amount of cubic feet in the cabinet and obtain the
product load weight. For example, a 20 cubic foot refrigerator can hold
approximately 700 pounds of product (35 x 20) and assuming the refrigerator itself
weighs 300 pounds, the total combined weight of cabinet and product is
approximately 1000 pounds. Therefore, the floor in this example must be capable of
supporting up to 1000 pounds.
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INSTALLING LEGS AND LEVELING REACH-IN MODELS
Your new reach-in model is supplied with adjustable type legs for leveling
purposes. Each single and two section model has four leg mounting holes on its
case bottom, and three section models have six leg mounting holes. Legs are
packed in the accessory carton from which they must be removed and installed on
the cabinet case bottom (see figure 2). In order to install the legs, carefully tip the
cabinet rearward adding four (4) 2" wood blocks underneath and simply screw the
threaded leg studs into the case bottom front leg holes. Repeat this procedure by
tilting the cabinet in the opposite direction and install the remaining legs. Make sure
the legs are tightened extremely well or the entire model will sway or rock with each
opening or closing of the doors, possibly causing damage to the case bottom. This
procedure should be performed close to the final installation site and allow access
to the rear of the cabinet for condensate evaporator installation (see "condensate
evaporator installation" under installation and location section).
To assure your cabinet is level, all legs are equipped with bullet-type leveling bolts.
These bolts can be turned by hand or by wrench, clockwise or counterclockwise to
level the cabinet.
FIGURE 2
LEG INSTALLATION
MOUNTING ROLL-IN MODELS IN PLACE AND LEVELING
Your new roll-in model is designed and constructed to be mounted directly on the
floor without legs or casters. The floor must be level and the base of the cabinet
should be sealed to the floor around its entire perimeter. If the floor is not level, it
must be made level prior to mounting your roll-in model.
Your roll-in model comes with one cart ramp per door opening. To install the
ramp(s), simply open the cabinet door and position the ramp slots onto the screws
located along the cabinet bottom front. If the door wiper rubs along the ramp to the
extreme where the door will not self-close, you will need to adjust the door (see
"door adjustment" section) or level the cabinet as explained above.
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Important Note: It is extremely important that your new reach-in or roll-in
model is perfectly level for proper operation. If it is not level, the following
adverse conditions will become apparent:
1. The door(s) will not be properly aligned and consequently will not provide a
good seal. Roll-in door wiper(s) may bind.
2. Your model will run excessively due to improper door seal(s).
3. An excessive amount of ice will accumulate inside the cabinet, around the door
opening(s) and especially on the finned evaporator coil. If allowed to continue,
ice will eventually block the coil and the model will fail. This will
loss of all food stored within the cabinet.
result in the
4. Defrost water will fail to drain properly and will overflow the evaporator coil drain
pan and into the cabinet of both refrigerator and freezer models.
INSTALLING CASTERS AND LEVELING REACH-IN MODELS
If you wish to install casters on your new reach-in model, follow the steps above for
"installing legs" to install the casters, making sure again that the casters are
tightened extremely well (see figure 3). If the casters are not installed tightly, the
cabinet will sway or rock with each opening or closing of the doors, possibly
causing damage to the case bottom.
To assure that your cabinet is level, caster cups must be installed under the casters
which need leveling. Caster cups are not provided with your new model but can be
purchased at most hardware or furniture stores. Do not attempt to level casters
by unscrewing them from the case bottom as this will cause damage to the
cabinet bottom and leg hole threads, voiding all warranties.
FIGURE 3
CASTERS MUST BE TIGHT TO CABINET BOTTOM
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INSTALLING CONDENSATE EVAPORATOR
No floor drains or plumbing connections are required since all models use an
automatic condensate water evaporating system. All designer line models utilize a
unique hot gas condensate water evaporating system which is completely self-
contained and no further assembly or maintenance is required (these models are
recognized by their evaporator coil which is located out of the food zone in an
insulated plug-box housing next to the condensing unit). All value line models are
supplied with an electric condensate evaporator pan and mounting bracket packed
in the accessory carton. To install the condensate pan on value line models only,
remove both mounting screws located on the bottom of the cabinet back and install
the mounting bracket on the case bottom as shown in figure 4. Slide the
condensate pan onto the bracket, install the drain tube into the pan making sure it
is not blocked or kinked, and plug the ten foot power cord into the receptacle
labeled "vaporizer" located on the case top electrical box.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is extremely important to be sure that the
condensate pan is plugged into its correct receptacle labeled "vaporizer" and
that the condensing unit is plugged into its correct receptacle labeled
"condensing unit".
FIGURE 4
CONDENSATE EVAPORATOR INSTALLATION
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REMOVAL OF DOORS AND DOOR ADJUSTMENT
During installation, it may become necessary to remove the cabinet doors to
facilitate passage through narrow doorways or hallways. To remove a door, pry off
all hinge covers using a sharp tool or knife (see figure 5). Swing the door to the
open-door position (90 degrees) and carefully lift the door upward, removing the
door from the hinge bodies. If it is necessary to remove the hinge bodies from the
cabinet face, be extremely careful not to lose the light switch pin located inside all
top hinge bodies. To reinstall the door, reverse the above procedure.
All doors have been aligned at the factory, however vibration during transportation
may cause doors to shift and realignment may be necessary. If the door(s)
require realignment, proceed as follows:
1. Pry off all hinge covers using a sharp tool or knife.
2. For each door, loosen the screws which secure the hinge bodies to the cabinet
face and slide the door into alignment. Hold the door firmly in place and tighten
all screws securely.
If the door gasket(s) do not seal properly to the cabinet face and there are
gaps between the gasket and the face on the hinge edge, proceed as follows:
1. For each door, loosen all screws which are directed into the edge of the door
and push the door towards the cabinet eliminating the gap. Hold the door firmly
in place and tighten all screws securely.
2. Replace all snap-on hinge covers.
FIGURE 5
DOOR ADJUSTMENT AND REMOVAL
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REMOVAL OF GRILL
To remove the grill, loosen all four (4) grill mounting screws located on the backside
of the grill one or two turns. Simply lift grill up off of its mounting screws and out. To
replace the grill, line up the grill mounting screws with the keyhole slots located on
the cabinet body, push in on the grill and down.
Important note: If the model is provided with a digital or dial thermometer, the
front grill cannot be completely removed from the cabinet without first removing the
thermometer bulb from inside the cabinet. However, enough capillary tubing and/or
wiring cable has been provided to allow the grill to be laid across the top of the
cabinet after it has been removed. Take care not to damage the capillary tubing
when handling the grill.
If it is necessary to remove the thermometer bulb from inside of the cabinet, first
locate the thermometer bulb cover and remove the thumbscrews securing it in
place. On value line models, the thermometer bulb cover is located on the interior
top left corner towards the front of the cabinet. On designer line models, the
thermometer bulb is located on the interior top under the air duct. Once the cover is
removed, carefully grasp the bulb and push it back through the cabinet hole. The
thermometer bulb and grill can now be removed from the cabinet. When reinstalling
the thermometer bulb, be sure to replace the permagum sealant around the hole
after inserting the bulb.
INITIAL CLEANING PROCEDURE
Prior to start-up and before placing any food inside of your new reach-in or roll-in
model, the interior of the cabinet should be thoroughly cleaned. Washing with a
mild soap and warm water solution is recommended for cleaning the aluminum and
stainless steel surfaces of your cabinet. This should be followed by cleaning with a
baking soda solution (three (3) tablespoons of baking soda to each quart of warm
water). Rinse thoroughly with clear water and dry with a clean, soft cloth.
Important Note: Never use harsh detergents, cleaners, scouring powders or
chemicals when cleaning your model. Failure to dry the interior surfaces after
cleaning may result in a streaking or staining of the metal.
Complete cleaning procedures and precautions are listed in the "periodic cleaning
procedure" under the maintenance section.
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START-UP PROCEDURE
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
To insure proper operation, your new model must be connected to an individual
circuit that can supply the full voltage as stated on the cabinet serial data plate. For
correct voltage, power draw, and wire accommodations, check the data on the
serial data plate located on the inner right wall of your new model. Verify that this
information exactly matches the electrical characteristics at the installation location.
An electrical wiring diagram, located on the upper cabinet end panel next to the
electrical console box, should also be consulted during connection.
Important Note: The condensing unit supplied with all self-contained models is
designed to operate with a voltage fluctuation of + 10 % of the voltage indicated on
the cabinet serial data plate. Full voltage of the correct service, on an individual line
not affected by the operation of other electrical appliances, must be available to the
condensing unit at all times. Burnout of the compressor due to exceeding the
high or low voltage limits is easily detected and will automatically void the
factory warranty.
115 VOLT, 60 HZ, 1 PHASE CONNECTION
All 115 volt models are provided with a U.L. approved power cord and polarized
plug which is factory installed.
Warning: Any alterations to this cord and plug could cause an electrical
hazard and will void the factory warranty.
To insure proper operation, this equipment must be plugged into a NEMA 5-15R
compatible, grounded receptacle that can supply the full voltage as stated on the
serial data plate.
208-230 VOLT, 60 HZ, 1 PHASE CONNECTION
All 208-230 volt models are to be permanently connected and are provided with
four (4) field wiring leads which exit the electrical console box located in the
machine compartment behind the front grill. The cabinet circuitry is 115 volts and
the condensing unit is 208-230 volts in which the wiring includes a neutral and a
mechanical ground. This wiring should be connected to the appropriate power
source by a qualified electrician and must conform to all local electrical codes.
SPECIAL VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS
When models are ordered from the factory with special, optional voltages,
connections should be made as required on the electrical wiring diagram provided
on the upper cabinet end panel next to the electrical console box.
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START-UP CHECKLIST
After your model has been installed, leveled, cleaned, and electrically connected in
accordance with this manual, please take the time before start-up to observe the
following precautions to assure troublefree operation:
1. Check that all exposed refrigeration lines are free of severe dents or kinks.
2. Check the condenser fan and evaporator fans for freedom to rotate without any
obstructions
3. Make sure that the cabinet is properly leveled (see "leveling" under installation
and location section).
The system should run smoothly and quietly in accordance with generally accepted
commercial standards. If any unusual noises are heard, turn the unit off
immediately and check for any obstructions of the condenser or evaporator fans.
Fan motors, fan blades, or fan housings can be jarred out of position through rough
handling in transit or during installation.
Important Note: All freezer models have an energy-saving fan delay control to
prevent the interior fans from operating until the evaporator becomes chilled.
Therefore, on initial start-up, the fans will not turn immediately. This is a normal
mode of operation. Allow sufficient time for the evaporator coil to reach its
operating temperature (approximately 20 minutes).
Caution: If unit is unplugged or disconnected for any reason, allow several
minutes (5-6 minutes) before turning the unit back on to allow the system pressures
to equalize. Disregarding this procedure could cause an overload and prevent the
unit from operating.
REMOTE APPLICATIONS
All models are available for purchase as remote models in which case the
condensing unit is purchased separately and installed at the time of installation. All
remote models are equipped with an expansion valve located within the evaporator
coil housing, and both liquid and suction lines stubbed and extending out from the
cabinet case top behind the front grill. Installation of the refrigeration accessories,
condensing unit, and electrical hook-up should be performed by qualified
refrigeration personnel of a competent refrigeration company only.
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OPERATION
All cabinets must be given sufficient time to reach normal operating temperature
before placing any food inside. Refrigerators are designed to maintain an ideal
cabinet temperature of 38`f to 40`f (3.3`c to 4.4`c) and approximately 2 hours of
operation are required to reach this temperature. Standard freezers are designed to
maintain an ideal cabinet temperature of -2`f to 0`f (-18.9`c to -17.8`c) and
approximately 4 hours of operation are required to reach this temperature. Low
temperature freezers are designed to maintain an ideal cabinet temperature of -16`f
to -14`f (-26.7`c to -25.6`c) and approximately 6 hours of operation are required to
reach this temperature.
THERMOMETER CALIBRATION
After your new model has been given sufficient time to pull down to the above
specified temperature range, the exterior thermometer located on the upper grill
must be checked for calibration accuracy. All thermometers are carefully calibrated
at the factory prior to shipping but may be vibrated out of calibration through rough
handling in transit, shipping vibration, or during installation.
CALIBRATION CHECK
To check calibration, an accurate, mercury thermometer (within the temperature
range of your model) must be placed inside of the cabinet on the center shelf for at
least 15 minutes without any door openings. At this time, note the temperature on
the exterior cabinet thermometer, quickly open the door and compare it to the
interior thermometer's temperature. Whatever the difference (if any) is the amount
the exterior thermometer must be adjusted.
The adjustment procedure varies depending on which thermometer is equipped
with your model (see figure 5).
DIAL THERMOMETER
For a dial thermometer, carefully pry the clear plastic lens cover from the
thermometer body using a slotted screwdriver. To adjust the needle, hold the center
hub stationary using a small slotted screw driver and very carefully grasp and turn
the needle to the desired temperature using your fingers. Replace the lens cover
and recheck the calibration.
DIGITAL THERMOMETER
For a digital thermometer, note how many degrees the digital display needs to be
increased or decreased. Press twice directly on the mylar display towards the
right center using your finger. After pressing the first time, the display should read
"cal" indicating that you are in the calibration mode and after pressing the second
time, the display should read either zero or a positive number or a negative
number (this number is the point of origin for calibration). If your digital display
needed to be increased, you must advance the point of origin by that many
degrees by pressing directly on the mylar display towards the left top. If your
digital display needed to be decreased you must decrease the point of origin by
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that many degrees by pressing directly on the mylar display towards the left
bottom. Once calibration is complete return to normal temperature mode by
pressing once again on the mylar display towards the right center. Now, recheck
the calibration.
Example: the digital display reads 45`f and the internal thermometer reads 40`f so,
the digital display must be increased by 5`. Press the right center of the display
twice and the number -1 is displayed (this is the point of origin and could have been
any number). Now, press the top left of the display five times to make the -1 go to
+4. Calibration is complete so press the right center of the display to return to
normal temperature mode.
FIGURE 6
THERMOMETER CALIBRATION
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REFRIGERATOR SYSTEM AND ADJUSTMENT
All self-contained value line and designer line refrigerators are designed and factory
set to maintain an average cabinet temperature of 38`f. The temperature control is
accessible from the top of the electrical console box located on the cabinet top
behind the front grill (see figure 6). If an adjustment is necessary to maintain the
above temperature range only, place a screwdriver into the thermostat slot and
turn clockwise for a colder cabinet temperature or counterclockwise for a warmer
cabinet temperature. Further adjustments out of the factory design temperature
range must be made by a qualified refrigeration mechanic only.
Important Note: All refrigerators are designed with an automatic, "off-cycle"
defrost system which means that defrosting occurs automatically when the
compressor is not operating during an off-cycle. Do not set the thermostat too cold
where the cabinet temperature will fall below 35`f because the evaporator will
become blocked by ice since the compressor off-cycle will be considerably
shortened. This will result in loss of food stored within the cabinet and require
service to defrost the evaporator and re-adjust the thermostat.
FIGURE 7
REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER THERMOSTAT
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FREEZER SYSTEM AND ADJUSTMENT
All self-contained value line and designer line standard freezers and low-
temperature freezers are designed and factory set to maintain an average cabinet
temperature of 0` f and -15`f respectively. All freezers are designed for the purpose
of holding pre-frozen food and although they are capable of freezing small
quantities of fresh food, they are not to be used as fast or blast freezers. Do not
attempt to freeze bulk quantities of fresh foods. The temperature control is
accessible from the top of the electrical console box located on the cabinet top
behind the front grill (see figure 6).if an adjustment is necessary to maintain the
above temperature range only on standard freezers, place a screwdriver into the
thermostat slot and turn clockwise for a colder cabinet temperature or
counterclockwise for a warmer cabinet temperature. On low-temperature freezers,
place a screwdriver into the right thermostat adjustment screw (do not turn the left
differential adjustment screw) and turn clockwise for a colder cabinet
temperature or counterclockwise for a warmer cabinet temperature. Further
adjustments out of the factory design temperature range must be made by a
qualified refrigeration mechanic only.
DEFROST OPERATION
All freezer models are equipped with an automatic, electric defrost system
consisting of an electric evaporator coil and drain pan heater, automatic electric
defrost time clock, defrost high limit switch, and a fan delay switch. The defrost
system is time initiated by the time clock and temperature terminated by the high
limit switch. The time clock is factory preset for three (3) defrost periods per day at
eight (8) hour intervals and a fail safe cut-off time of 32 minutes. These settings
should be adequate for most conditions, however, depending upon use and climate
conditions a fourth defrost may be required.
The defrost time clock is located in the electrical console box where a window
allows access to the timer dial. To set the time of day on the defrost time clock, turn
the knob on the center dial of timer face counterclockwise as the arrows indicate
until the correct time of day is lined up with the "time" arrow on the upper left corner
of the clock (see figure 8). It will be necessary to reset the time of day on the timer if
the freezer is turned off or has loss of power. To relocate and/or add a defrost
period, simply unscrew the defrost pins located around the outer dial and screw
them into the desired time slots (an additional pin is located in a storage slot on the
right side of the dial).
Important Note: All freezers have a unique, energy-saving defrost cycle. It is
time initiated, temperature terminated, with an automatic, auxiliary time cut-off
safety to minimize electrical consumption and provide for the shortest possible
heating cycle. This safety time cut-off is factory set at 32 minutes and should not
require any further adjustment.
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After defrost, the fan delay control prevents the evaporator fans from operating until
the evaporator coil has reached a temperature of 32°f (approximately 20 minutes)
thus, minimizing warm air circulation inside the cabinet. Therefore, during initial
start-up, and after each defrost cycle, the fans will not turn on immediately.
FIGURE 8
DEFROST TIMER SETTING
WARMER SYSTEM AND ADJUSTMENT
All designer line warming cabinets are designed with an operating range of 90`f to
180`f and factory performance run tested to maintain an average cabinet
temperature of 150`f. Always preheat your new warming cabinet to the desired
temperature before placing any food into it. To operate, turn the thermostat knob
located on the upper grill panel, from the "off" position to the desired cabinet
temperature. When the desired temperature is reached and displayed on the
exterior thermometer, preheating is complete and the cabinet is ready to be loaded.
Please note that setting the thermostat higher than the desired temperature will not
provide quicker preheat warm-ups.
Warming cabinets are not designed to cook food. All foods placed in the warming
cabinet should be precooked and at, or above the desired holding temperature.
Never place cold or uncooked foods in the cabinet. It is recommended that hot
foods be kept above 140`f to retard bacterial growth. Foods that are steaming
should always be covered.
Important Note: Although the warming cabinet operating range is 90`f to 180`f,
the thermostat control knob can be adjusted up to 200`f. Never allow the cabinet
temperature to exceed 200`f since serious damage could result to your warming
cabinet and the warranty will become null and void.
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EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY
All value line and designer line refrigerators and freezers have an easily accessible,
easily serviceable, performance rated, forced-air evaporator assembly which
utilizes a plasticized fin coil for extended life. There are two different types of
evaporator assembly systems used throughout the value line and designer line
models as shown in figures 9 and 10:
LOW-PROFILE,CEILING-MOUNT EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY
The low-profile evaporator system is comprised of a generous sized, evenly
matched evaporator and air circulating fans contained within an easily accessible,
low silhouette, interior ceiling mounted housing.
FIGURE 9
LOW-PROFILE,CEILING-MOUNT EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY
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PLUG-TYPE,TOP-MOUNT EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY
The plug-type evaporator system is a unique system in which the evaporator coil
and air circulating fans are contained within a concealed plug-type insulated
housing, readily accessible on the top of the cabinet and separate from the food
storage zone. The entire plug system is fully charged with refrigerant and mounted
on a steel rail type base which can be easily removed from the cabinet if a field
conversion (refrigerator to freezer or vice versa) is desired. Before attempting to
remove plug assembly, consult factory.
FIGURE 10
PLUG-TYPE,TOP-MOUNT EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY
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INTERIOR REACH-IN ACCESSORIES
The standard interior accessory package that is supplied from the factory with your
new value line and designer line reach-in consists of standard pilaster strips with
pilaster clips (four (4)clips per shelf), three (3) epoxy coated shelves per section,
and four (4) epoxy coated shelves per section on glass door models only.
SHELVING INSTALLATION
Pilaster strips which support the shelving are secured to the cabinet walls with
special pilaster screws which allow the strips to be readily removed for cleaning
without the use of tools. Shelf clips are easily installed by inserting them into the
pilasters at the desired shelf location and shelf installation is as simple as placing
the shelf on the clips as shown in figure 11. The standard pilaster and clip are
shown in figure 11a, and the optional heavy-duty pilaster and clip are shown in
figure 11b.
Important Note: When loading shelves with food product, allow space between
rows of product for proper air circulation, and do not load product to block back wall
(leave at least 2" of air space between product and back wall).
FIGURE 11a
STANDARD PILASTER
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OPTIONAL INTERIOR ACCESSORIES
In addition to the optional heavy-duty pilaster and clip as shown in figure 11b,
aluminum and stainless steel angle pan slides and universal angle pan slides are
available and shown in figure 12. Please consult the price list for additional
interior and exterior options and accessories available from the factory for
your model.
FIGURE 11b
OPTIONAL HEAVY-DUTY PILASTER
FIGURE 12
OPTIONAL ANGLE PAN SLIDES
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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The following safety precautions should be followed when operating any
appliances:
ꢀ Always disconnect the power cord before attempting to work on or clean any
equipment.
ꢀ Disconnect the power cord when the appliance will be idled for a long period
of time.
ꢀ Do not attempt to service this unit yourself as removing any covers may
cause exposure to dangerous voltage.
ꢀ Always route the power cord so that it is not likely to be walked on or
pinched by other appliances. Never use extension cords.
ꢀ Do not overload outlets with more than one appliance. This can result in fire
or electrical shock.
ꢀ Your model is equipped with a grounded and polarized plug. Do not defeat
the purpose of this plug by removing the ground post or using a non-
polarized adapter without properly grounding the outlet.
ꢀ Never connect any appliance to a power source while standing in water or
with wet hands.
ꢀ When a replacement part is required, always insist on factory authorized
parts only.
MAINTENANCE
PERIODIC CLEANING PROCEDURE
It is best to clean your refrigerator or freezer when the product load is at its lowest
level inside your cabinet. To clean the interior or exterior cabinet surfaces, the
following procedure should be followed:
1. Disconnect your model from its power supply and remove all food product from
inside.
2. Open all doors and allow the cabinet to reach room temperature. Remove all
accessories (shelves, racks, pilasters, clips, etc.) From within the model, wash
with a baking soda and warm water solution, and rinse thoroughly with clear
water. Dry all of the accessories completely with a soft clean cloth.
3. Once the cabinet has reached room temperature, wash the entire cabinet
inside and out with a baking soda and warm water solution. For slightly more
difficult cleanups, ammonia or vinegar in warm water can be used. Rinse
thoroughly with clear water and dry with a soft clean cloth. Failure to dry all
surfaces completely may cause water stains or streaking on the aluminum or
stainless steel finish.
4. Return all accessories to their respective positions and return electric supply
power to the model.
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Precautions
1. Never use harsh detergents, cleaners, scouring powders, or chemicals when
cleaning your model.
2. Strong bleaches tend to corrode many materials and should never come in
contact with stainless steel.
3. Tincture of iodine, or iron should not come in contact with stainless steel. These
solutions, which cause stainless steel to discolor, should be rinsed off
immediately if contact occurs.
4. Some foods, such as mustard, mayonnaise, lemon juice, dressings or salts,
may attack or corrode stainless steel.
5. Gritty, hard abrasives will mar the finish of stainless steel and aluminum and
are not recommended.
SLIDING AND HINGED GLASS
All glass doors whether sliding or hinged are easily removable for cleaning.
Removal of a hinged glass door is the same as a solid door (see "removal of doors
and door adjustment" in installation and location section). To remove a sliding door,
slide it open about half way, grasp the door on both sides and lift up to clear the
bottom door track. Tilt the door out at the bottom. Use the top of the door to ease
the spring-loaded closing mechanism back to the closed position. Now, bring the
door down out of the top track. Caution should be taken so that the closing
mechanism is not allowed to spring back from the half-open position since the
spring will go past the closed position and may pop out of the top track. Should this
happen, move the closing mechanism back to the closed position.
To replace the sliding glass door, insert the door in the top track and use it to slide
the closing mechanism to the half-open position. Lift the door so it clears the bottom
track, push in to align the door with the track, and let the door down into the track.
Important Note: The glass used in sliding or hinged glass doors is of special,
sealed pane design and cannot be replaced with ordinary window or plate glass. If
it becomes necessary to replace the glass, it can be obtained directly from the
factory.
GENERAL PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Performance of the air cooled condensing unit located on the top of your new
model, depends exclusively upon the amount of air passing through the condenser
fins. Your refrigerator or freezer will run more efficiently, consume less current, and
provide a maximum of trouble-free service throughout its lifetime if the condenser is
kept clean and an adequate supply of clean, cool air is provided at all times.
Periodically (at least once a month) inspect the condenser coil, which is located
directly behind the front top grill, to check for debris or blockage.
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If the condenser coil is dirty or blocked, disconnect the power supply to your model
and using a stiff brush, brush the dirt from the condenser fins until the condenser is
clear from any debris. Using a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment may aid in
this cleaning process. After cleaning, restore electrical service to your model.
PARTS AND SERVICE
Always provide the cabinet model and serial number (located on the data plate on
the inside right wall of the cabinet) whenever contacting the factory or your dealer
regarding questions or when ordering parts.
MODEL # __ _____ _____ Serial #__________________________
Notes:
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TROUBLESHOOTING AND SERVICING GUIDE
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
1.LINE DISCONNECTED, SWITCH OPEN.
1.CLOSE START OR DISCONNECT
SWITCH.
2.REPLACE FUSE.
3.DETERMINE REASON AND
CORRECT/REPLACE
Condensing unit will
not start - no hum.
2.FUSE REMOVED OR BLOWN.
3.OVERLOAD PROTECTOR BLOWN.
4.RELOCATE CONTROL.
4.CONTROL "OFF" DUE TO COLD LOCATION.
5.CONTROL STUCK IN OPEN POSITION.
6.WIRING IMPROPER OR LOOSE.
5.REPAIR OR REPLACE CONTROL.
6.CHECK WIRING AGAINST DIAGRAM.
1.IMPROPERLY WIRED.
2.LOW VOLTAGE TO UNIT.
3.STARTING CAPACITOR DEFECTIVE.
4.RELAY FAILING TO CLOSE.
5.COMPRESSOR MOTOR HAS A SHORTED OR 5.REPLACE COMPRESSOR.
1.CHECK WIRING AGAINST DIAGRAM.
2.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
3.DETERMINE REASON AND REPLACE.
4.DETERMINE REASON AND REPLACE.
Condensing unit will
not start - hums but
trips on overload
protector.
OPEN WINDING.
6.REPLACE COMPRESSOR.
6.INTERNAL MECHANICAL TROUBLE IN
COMPRESSOR.
7. CLEAR CONDENSER & ALLOW
COMPRESSOR TO COOL DOWN
7. INSUFFICIENT AIR SUPPLY
1.ADDITIONAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH 1.CHECK WIRE DIAGRAM.CHECK FOR
Condensing unit starts
and runs, but short
cycles on over-load
protector.
OVERLOAD PROTECTOR.
ADDED COMPONENTS CONNECTED TO
WRONG SIDE OF OVERLOAD
PROTECTOR.
2.LOW VOLTAGE TO UNIT.
3.OVERLOAD PROTECTOR DEFECTIVE.
2.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
3.CHECK CURRENT,REPLACE
PROTECTOR.
4.RUN CAPACITOR DEFECTIVE.
5.EXCESSIVE DISCHARGE PRESSURE.
4.DETERMINE REASON AND REPLACE.
5.CHECK VENTILATION,RESTRICTIONS IN
COOLING MEDIUM OR REFRIG. SYSTEM.
6.CHECK FOR MISAPPLICATION.
7.CLEAR CONDENSER & ALLOW
COMPRESSOR TO COOL DOWN
6.EXCESSIVE SUCTION PRESSURE.
7.INSUFFICIENT AIR SUPPLY
1.IMPROPERLY WIRED.
2.LOW VOLTAGE TO UNIT.
1.CHECK WIRING AGAINST DIAGRAM.
2.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
3.DETERMINE REASON AND REPLACE.
4.DETERMINE REASON AND REPLACE.
5.CHECK DISCHARGE SHUT-OFF VALVE,
POSSIBLE OVERCHARGE.
Condensing unit starts,
but fails to switch off of
"start" winding.
3.RELAY FAILING TO OPEN.
4.RUN CAPACITOR DEFECTIVE.
5.EXCESSIVELY HIGH DISCHARGE PRESSURE.
6.COMPRESSOR MOTOR HAS A SHORTED OR
OPEN WINDING.
6.REPLACE COMPRESSOR.
7.INTERNAL MECHANICAL TROUBLE IN
COMPRESSOR.
7.REPLACE COMPRESSOR.
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PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
1.OVERLOAD PROTECTOR.
2.THERMOSTAT.
3.HIGH PRESSURE CUT-OUT DUE TO:
(a) INSUFFICIENT AIR SUPPLY.
(B) OVERCHARGE.
(c) AIR IN SYSTEM.
4.LOW PRESSURE CUT-OUT DUE TO:
(a) VALVE LEAK.
1.SEE PROBLEM # 3.
2.DIFFERENTIAL MUST BE WIDENED.
3.
(a) CHECK AIR SUPPLY TO CONDENSER.
(b) EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
(c) EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
4.
(a) REPLACE, EVACUATE AND RE-
CHARGE.
Condensing unit runs,
but short cycles on:
(b) UNDERCHARGE.
(c) RESTRICTION IN EXPANSION DEVICE.
(b) EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
(c) REPLACE EXPANSION DEVICE.
1.SHORTAGE OF REFRIGERANT.
2.CONTROL CONTACTS STUCK CLOSED.
1.FIX LEAK,EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
2.CLEAN CONTACTS OR REPLACE
CONTROL.
3.ALLOW UNIT SUFFICIENT TIME FOR
REMOVAL OF LATENT HEAT.
Condensing unit runs,
but for prolonged
periods or continuous.
3.EXCESSIVE HEAT LOAD PLACED INTO
CABINET.
4.PROLONGED OR TOO FREQUENT DOOR 4.PLAN OR ORGANIZE SCHEDULE TO
OPENINGS.
CORRECT CONDITION.
5.EVAPORATOR COIL ICED.
6.RESTRICTION IN REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
7.DIRTY CONDENSER.
5.DEFROST EVAPORATOR COIL.
6.DETERMINE LOCATION AND REMOVE.
7.CLEAN CONDENSER COIL.
8.FILTER DRIER CLOGGED.
8.REPLACE,EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
1.RELAY CONTACT NOT OPENING PROPERLY.
2.PROLONGED OPERATION ON START CYCLE:
(a) LOW VOLTAGE TO UNIT.
(b) IMPROPER RELAY.
(c) STARTING LOAD TOO HIGH.
1.CLEAN CONTACTS OR REPLACE RELAY.
2.
(a) DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
(b) REPLACE WITH CORRECT RELAY.
(c) CORRECT BY USING PUMP DOWN.
3.DETERMINE REASON FOR SHORT
Start capacitor open,
shorted or blown.
3.EXCESSIVE SHORT CYCLING.
CYCLE,
(SEE PROBLEM #5) AND
CORRECT.
4.IMPROPER CAPACITOR.
4.DETERMINE CORRECT SIZE AND
REPLACE.
1.IMPROPER CAPACITOR.
2.EXCESSIVELY HIGH LINE VOLTAGE, OVER
110% OF RATED MAXIMUM.
1.CHECK SIZE AND REPLACE.
2.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
Run capacitor open,
shorted or blown.
1.INCORRECT RELAY.
2.INCORRECT MOUNTING ANGLE.
1.CHECK RELAY AND REPLACE.
2.REMOUNT RELAY IN CORRECT
POSITION.
Relay defective or
blown out.
3.VOLTAGE TOO LOW OR TOO HIGH.
4.EXCESSIVE SHORT CYCLING.
3.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
4.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT
(SEE PROBLEM # 5).
5.LOOSE OR VIBRATING MOUNTING POSITION
6.INCORRECT RUN CAPACITOR.
7.LOOSE WIRING ON RELAY OR OVERLOAD.
5.REMOUNT RIGIDLY.
6.REPLACE WITH PROPER CAPACITOR.
7.TIGHTEN ALL WIRING SCREWS.
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PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
1.CONTROL SETTING TOO HIGH.
2.INADEQUATE AIR CIRCULATION.
1.ADJUST T-STAT
Product zone
temperature too high.
2.REARRANGE PRODUCT LOAD TO
IMPROVE AIR CIRCULATION.
3.CLEAN CONDENSER COIL
3.DIRTY CONDENSER
1.OVERCHARGE OF REFRIGERANT.
2.EVAPORATOR FAN NOT RUNNING.
3.EXPANSION VALVE STUCK OPEN.
1.EVACUATE AND RE-CHARGE.
2.DETERMINE REASON AND CORRECT.
3.CLEAN VALVE,EVACUATE AND RE-
CHARGE.
Suction line frosted or
sweating.
4.EXPANSION VALVE SUPERHEAT TOO LOW.
1.RESTRICTION IN DRIER STRAINER.
4.ADJUST SUPERHEAT TO REQUIRED
SETTING
1.REPLACE DRIER,EVACUATE AND RE-
CHARGE
2.OPEN VALVE FULLY OR REPLACE IF
NECESSARY.
Liquid line frosted,
cold, or sweating.
2.LIQUID LINE SERVICE VALVE PARTIALLY
CLOSED.
1.LOOSE PARTS OR MOUNTINGS.
2.TUBING RATTLE OR VIBRATION.
1.TIGHTEN ALL MOUNTING PARTS AND
SHROUD COVER.
2.REFORM TUBING TO BE FREE OF
CONTACT.
Noisy condensing unit.
3.BENT FAN BLADE CAUSING EXCESSIVE
VIBRATION.
3.REPLACE FAN BLADE.
4.FAN MOTOR BEARINGS WORN.
4.REPLACE FAN MOTOR.
THERMOMETER READS
DIFFERENT THAN ACTUAL
TEMPERATURE
1.CALIBRATION
1.CONSULT OPERATIONS MANUAL AND
CALIBRATE
2.REPLACE
2.DEFECTIVE
WATER LEAK INSIDE UNIT
1.CONDENSATE DRAIN PAN NOT INSTALLED
PROPERLY
1.CONSULT OPERATION MANUAL FOR
INSTALL INSTRUCTION
2.UNIT NOT LEVEL
2.MAKE SURE UNIT IS LEVEL OR PITCHED
BACK SLIGHTLY
3.MAKE SURE DRAIN PAN IS ALIGNED
PROPERLY
3.DRAIN PAN MISALIGNED
4.DFECTIVE DRAIN PAN
4.REPLACE
DOORS MISALIGNED
1.SHIFTED DURING SHIPPING
1.REFER TO OPERATION MANUAL FOR
HINGE ADJUSTMENT
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WIRING DIAGRAMS
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