Wood & Coal Burning Furnace
Owners Manual
Models: 24AF, 24AG, 24AZ
TESTED TO UL 391
All installations must be made in accordance with local and state codes
which may differ from this manual.
UNITED STATES STOVE COMPANY
227 Industrial Park Road
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
R
US
USSC
851224C
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Welcome...
...to the world of solid fuel heating! Your new furnace has been designed and built
with a high grade of materials and the strictest regard to quality.
Before you start installing your new furnace, take the time to read these installation
and operating instructions. We have prepared them for your benefit to save time and
provide some helpful knowledge on wood and coal burning.
Save the instructions for future use. It won't take long for you to realize the benefit of
solid fuel heating, however, maintenance is the key to a long lasting relationship with
your new furnace. These instructions can help you now as well as in the future.
Note: This owners manual is provided for Forced Air add on furnaces. United States
Stove Company is constantly developing and improving its product line, therefore, we
reserve the right to change specifications without notice.
Table Of Contents
General Rules ..............................................................................................................................................................................4
How It Works ...............................................................................................................................................................................5
Parts List .................................................................................................................................................................................. 6-7
Installation Instructions ........................................................................................................................................................ 8-11
Assembly .............................................................................................................................................................................. 12-16
Accessories ................................................................................................................................................................................17
Wiring ................................................................................................................................................................................... 18-23
Trouble Shooting .......................................................................................................................................................................24
Notes .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25-26
Warranty ....................................................................................................................................................................................27
How To Order Repair Parts ......................................................................................................................................................28
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General Rules
Rules for the Safe Installation and Operation of Your
Fu rn ace...
In the event of a chimney fire call the fire depart-
ment, then be sure the furnace doors are closed
tightly and the power to the unit is turned off.
Check local codes, the installation must comply with strict
conformance in regard to clearances.
The Furnace must be installed on a noncombustible floor.
The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and coal at
a predetermined firing rate. Over firing could result in dam-
age to the heat exchanger and cause dangerous opera-
tion. Over firing occurs when the ash door is left open
during operation or a highly volatile fuel, such as large
amounts of small kindling, is used. Note: This action voids
all warranty.
Connect the furnace to tile lined inside masonry chimney or
approved insulated all fuel prefabricated chimney only.
Keep smoke pipe connection as short as possible, using a
minimum 24 gauge pipe with a minimum 1/ 2" per foot rise
from the flue collar to the chimney opening.
Follow a regular service and maintenance schedule of the
furnace and chimney for efficient and safe operation.
Be sure there is a sufficient supply of combustion
air to the area where the furnace is to be located.
Do not leave the ash door open when the fire is burning.
Do not let ashes build up closer than 2" to the grate.
Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to operate at
.04 to .06 inches of water column and must be set with a
draft gauge to maintain a steady draft.
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on the
metal. You may smell an odor. This is normal during the
first operation. You should assemble the furnace out of
doors and build a small fire in it to "burn off" this dirt and
oil before installing the unit.
Do not use flammable liquids for starting a fire.
Do not store fuel or combustibles near the furnace. Some
areas of the furnace are hot and could cause an explosion
and possible bodily or property damage.
During the first few fires, heat may slightly warp
the front and back panels. This is normal and will
not hamper your unit's operation.
Store all ashes in a metal container with a tight sealing lid
and allow ashes to cool before disposing of them, possibly
a week.
Familiarize yourself with the furnace's solid fuel burning
characteristics before leaving unit unattended for long pe-
riods of time.
DONOTCONNECTTHISUNITTOACHIMNEYFLUESERV-
INGANOTHERAPPLIANCE.
BURN WOOD ORCOALONLYIN MODEL24AF. DO NOT
MIXOTHERTHANTHEUSEOFWOODTOSTARTACOAL
FIRE.
The loading door and ash door must be tightly closed dur-
ing furnace operation to insure safety and efficiency.
CAUTION-
DANGER - Risk of Fire or Explosion: Do not burn gar-
bage, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids.
The furnace has hot surfaces. Keep Children Away.
Do not touch during operation.
WARNING - Risk of Fire:
Do not operate with flue draft exceeding 6 inches
water column.
Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal
doors open.
D o n ot store fu el or oth er com b u stib le m aterial
within marked installation clearances.
Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly.
This Furnace Must Be Installed By A Qualified Installer.
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How...
How Your New Furnace Works
Unlike conventional heating (gas, oil, electric), wood or coal
heating requires more user attention. Your furnace, with
its automatic combustion air blower, alleviates the constant
need for adjusting the burning rate common to other units
on the market. The fire, however, must be started and
subsequent fuel added by the user.
WARNING
Note: Improper firing. Wood or coal over firing oc-
curs when the ash door is left open during operation
or a highly volatile fuel is used. Coal that exceeds the
fire brick line will cause overfiring...this type of op-
eration will immediately void any warranty.
Conventional heating system produce heat only when the
thermostat calls for heat. This way of heating is inefficient
and often leaves part of the home either too hot or too
cold. Your furnace is designed to deliver heat as long as
there is a fire in it. The fire intensity is regulated by the
room thermostat, high or low, the fire continues to pro-
duce heat. This heat is continuously distributed throughout
the home by a distribution blower. This constant supply of
heat is uniform and prevents drafts.
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Parts
FOR MODEL(S): 24AF
21
25
23
24
36
28
38
2
3
18
17
4
8
26
22
39
20
19
37
6
7
27
5
12
15
9
10
11
1
34
27
14
13
16
31
29
26
33
30
32
35
Page 6
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Parts
FIREBOXWELDMENT
WATERCOILCOVERGASKET
INSIDECOVERPLATE
12 x 3/ 4" TEKS SCREW
1/ 4-20 x 3/ 4" HX SCREW
FEEDDOOR
KEY
1
PART #
69072
C97999
24220
C23799
83236
25085
88033
C21390
24482
88075
C21390
69077
83379
83261
24485
88033
24486
C21390
83379
83261
24382
83471
83423
69068
24501
83445
83261
23787
89799
24528
83874
69080
69097
80129
89574
89849
69082
69069
40369
40349
40366
24496
24487
89066
24488
24489
24490
C60456
DESCRIPTION
QTY.
1
2
1
3
1
N/S
N/S
4
3
4
1
N/S
N/S
5
3/ 8"ROPEGASKET(FEEDDOOR)
7/ 32x1ROLLPIN (FEED DOOR)
PRESSUREFLAP
4.25 FT.
2
1
N/S
N/S
6
3/ 4FLATROPEGASKET
7/ 32 x 1 ROLL PIN (PRESSURE FLAP)
FEEDDOORHANDLEASSY.
1/ 4-20 x 1 BOLT
1 FT.
2
1
7
1
8
1/ 4-20LOCKNUT
1
9
ASHDOOR
1
N/S
10
N/S
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
N/S
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
3/ 8ROPEGASKET
2.29 FT.
ASHDOORHANDLE
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
10
1
1
1
1
7/ 32x1ROLLPIN (ASH DOOR)
1/ 4-20 x 1 BOLT
1/ 4-20LOCKNUT
SPINDAMPER
5/ 16-18 x 1-3/ 4" CARR. BOLT
5/ 16-18HEXLOCKNUT
ASH DRAWERASSY.
SMOKECURTAIN
1/ 4-20 x 1-1/ 4" BOLT
1/ 4-20LOCKNUT
SMOKEDOORCLIP
STUBCOLLAR
DAMPERROD
1/ 8 DIA. x 1-1/ 2" COTTER PIN
CONTROLCENTER
FORCEDDRAFTBLOWERASSY.
THERMOSTAT
SPRINGHANDLE(DAMPERROD,SHAKER)
HOOKSPRINGHANDLE(FEED,ASHDOOR)
JUNCTION BOXASSY.
SHAKERGRATEHANDLE
SHAKERGRATEFRAME
SHAKERGRATE
FIREBOXLINER
FRONTHEATPLATE
FURNACEHEATPLATE
FIREBRICK
CABINETTOP
CABINETRIGHTSIDE
CABINETLEFTSIDE
1050CFMDISTRIBUTION BLOWER
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Parts
FOR MODEL(S): 24AG, 24AZ
21
25
44
42
43
23
24
36
28
38
2
3
39 17 18
41
22
4
8
26
45
20
19
37
6
7
40
27
5
12
15
9
10
11
1
34
27
14
13
16
31
29
26
33
30
32
35
Page 8
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Parts
KEY
1
2
PART #
69315
C97999
24220
C23799
83236
25085
88033
C21390
24482
88075
C21390
69326B
83379
83261
24485
88033
25047B
C21390
83379
83261
24382
83471
83423
69068
2 4 5 0 1
83445
83261
23787
89799
24528
83874
69321G
69323
69097
8 0 1 2 9
89574
89849
69082
6 9 0 6 9
40369
4 0 3 4 9
40366
24496
2 4 4 8 7
89066
25014G
25015
25016G
25017
25018G
25019
25025B
25020G
25021
891049
891048
25022G
25023
69318B
69319B
851405
25024B
89943
C60456
DESCRIPTION
QTY.
1
1
1
3
4
1
FIREBOXWELDMENT
WATERCOILCOVERGASKET
INSIDECOVERPLATE
12 x 3/ 4" TEKS SCREW
1/ 4-20 x 3/ 4" HX SCREW
FEED DOOR
3/ 8" ROPE GASKET (FEED DOOR)
7/ 32 x 1 ROLL PIN (FEED DOOR)
PRESSURE FLAP
3/ 4FLATROPEGASKET
7/ 32 x 1 ROLL PIN (PRESSURE FLAP)
FEEDDOORHANDLEASSY.
1/ 4-20 x 1 BOLT
1/ 4-20 LOCK NUT
ASH DOOR
3/ 8 ROPE GASKET
ASHDOORHANDLE
7/ 32 x 1 ROLL PIN (ASH DOOR)
1/ 4-20 x 1 BOLT
1/ 4-20 LOCK NUT
3
N/S
N/S
4
N/S
N/S
5
N/S
N/S
6
4.25 FT.
2
1
1 FT.
2
1
1
1
1
7
8
9
N/S
10
N/S
11
1 2
1 3
14
1 5
1 6
1 7
18
1 9
2 0
2 1
2 2
N/S
23
* *
2 4
2 5
2 6
2 7
2 8
2 9
3 0
3 1
3 2
3 3
3 4
3 5
36
* *
37
* *
38
* *
39
40
* *
41
N/S
42
* *
N/S
N/S
N/S
43
4 4
45
2.29 FT.
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1 0
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
SPIN DAMPER
5/ 16-18 x 1-3/ 4" CARR. BOLT
5/ 16-18 HEX LOCK NUT
ASH DRAWERASSY.
SMOKECURTAIN
1/ 4-20 x 1-1/ 4" BOLT
1/ 4-20 LOCK NUT
SMOKEDOORCLIP
STUBCOLLAR
DAMPERROD
1/ 8 DIA. x 1-1/ 2" COTTER PIN
CONTROLCENTER
CONTROLCENTER(STAINLESSSTEEL)
FORCED DRAFT BLOWER ASSY.
THERMOSTAT
SPRINGHANDLE(DAMPERROD, SHAKER)
HOOKSPRINGHANDLE(FEED, ASH DOOR)
JUNCTION BOX ASSY.
SHAKERGRATEHANDLE
SHAKERGRATEFRAME
SHAKERGRATE
FIREBOX LINER
FRONTHEATPLATE
FURNACEHEATPLATE
FIREBRICK
CABINETTOP
CABINET TOP (STAINLESS STEEL)
CABINETRIGHTSIDE
CABINET RIGHT SIDE (STAINLESS STEEL)
CABINET LEFT SIDE
CABINET LEFT SIDE (STAINLESS STEEL)
SIDE FILLER
BOTTOMFRONT
BOTTOM FRONT(STAINLESSSTEEL)
CATCH
BALLSTRIKE
CABINETDOOR
CABINET DOOR (STAINLESS STEEL)
TOPCABINETDOORHINGE
TOPCABINETDOORHINGE
ASHLEYSCRIPTLOGO
LINER, CABINETDOOR
DOORKNOB
1050 CFM DISTRIBUTION BLOWER
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Installation
Furnace location
Chimney location is also critical. The furnace must be
Before you start!
placed as close as possible to the chimney. You want the
chimney connector (smoke pipe) to have a minimum of
elbows, two (2) or less. Also, the chimney connector should
not have to run more than six (6) feet to the chimney.
It is very important you check with your dealer, local fire
department, or building inspector. They will be able to in-
form you of any state or local codes pertaining to the loca-
tion and installation of your furnace.
CAUTION: The warm-air supply outlet of the Fur-
n ace sh ou ld n ot b e con n ected to th e cold -air re-
turn inlet of the central furnace because a possibil-
ity exists of components of the central furnace over-
heating and causing the central furnace to operate
other than as intended.
The ideal location for your furnace is centrally located in
the basement. This allows for an even heat distribution by
having all the duct work approximately the same length.
Ideal locations cannot always be used for one reason or
another, therefore, let's look at some alternatives.
If your home does not have a basement, but a utility room
or garage, make sure there is enough space to maintain
the required clearances stated on the label located on the
furnace. Also, read about combustion air.
After installation, be sure the measured external static pres-
sure of the central and Furnace is not greater than those
marked on the nameplates.
INSTALLATION #1
INSTALLATION #2
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is in-
serted into the heat run before the plenum of the existing
furnace to prevent air from the existing furnace to blow
back into the furnace when it is not in use. When a back
damper is employed, it should be located as close to the
existing furnace plenum as practical.
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the exist-
ing plenum will help direct the flow of air from the furnace
as well as the flow in the existing furnace. Ducting enter-
ing the existing plenum at an angle (approximately 45 de-
grees) will facilitate air flow from the furnace while divert-
ing air from the existing furnace.
(Optional)
Back Draft
Damper
Existing
Existing
Furnace
Furnace
Furnace
Furnace
INSTALLATION #3
The baffle on this system should be made the full width of
the furnace plenum in order to properly direct the air into
the distribution ducts.
Baffle
Existing
Furnace
Furnace
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Your furnace is designed to be added on to existing duct
work and operate either with or without another heat source
such as a gas furnace. The following diagrams illustrate
acceptable ways of ducting your furnace.
Clearance to Combustibles
Furnace to back wall
Furnace to side wall
Pipe to back wall
Pipe to side wall
30"
12"
Clearance to Combustible Materials
18"
Your Furnace has been tested to determine the SAFE clear-
ances to combustible material. The clearances are printed
on the label located on the back of the furnace. The chart
on this page also states these minimum clearances. Make
sure you follow these when choosing your furnace loca-
tion.
18"
Furnace to ceiling
Ductwork to ceiling
30"
18-6-1"
Any hot air plenum connection to a furnace must be con-
structed of metal.
NOTE: INSTALLONLYONANON-COMBUSTIBLEFLOOR.
18"
6"
18"
3'
1"
3'
PLENUM
18"
30"
18"
12"
EXISTING
FURNACE
SOLID FUEL
FURNACE
6"
12"
EXISTING
FURNACE
To connect a Solid Fuel Furnace to a chimney flue
pipe serving another appliance, it's suggested you check
local building codes.
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FLUE RECOMMENDATIONS
The termination cap should be
designed to inhibit downdrafting
without restricting the exhaust
discharge.
Chimney experts have determined that
the flue termination should be at least 2'
above the highest portion of the roof that
is within a 10' radius.
The flue termination should be at
least 3' above the roof line.
CAUTION!
Only a "Class A", all-fuel chimney in-
tended for use with solid fuel should be
used.
"Class A" chimneys are those made from
tile-lined masonry (brick or block) or an
independent laboratory approved all-
fuel factory-built chimney.
WHAT SIZE CHIMNEY SHOULD BE
USED?
The Chimney size to use is either six (6)
or (8) inch round or an 8 x 8" square. If
you use a rectangular chimney, the mini-
mum area it may be is 39 square inches.
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CHIMNEY INSTALLATION
FACTORY-BUILTORMETALCHIMNEYS
With the chimney being the most important part to your If your home has an existing metal chimney, the same rules
installation, great care should be given to its design.
apply as with masonry chimneys. One thing to be espe-
cially aware of is that "Class B" chimneys are for gas appli-
ances only, not solid fuel burners. If purchasing a new
package, consult with the dealer. He will provide the nec-
essary parts and instructions for installation.
MASONRY CHIMNEYS
If your intention is to use an existing masonry chimney,
check first with your local building official to see if this is
acceptable.
INSTALLING A NEW CHIMNEY
An older chimney, in need of repair, is the GREATEST When installing a new chimney, whether it be masonry or
fire hazard in any installation.
metal, if possible, it is recommended that it is placed within
the house structure. These chimneys remain warmer and,
in turn, radiate this warmth into the house. A chimney
located outside the house is exposed to cold temperatures
which encourages creosote build-up and poor chimney draft.
STOVE PIPE (FLUE PIPE) CONNECTION
The flue pipe you should use is 6" or 8" 24 gauge or heavier
steel pipe.
CONNECTING STOVE PIPE TO A
METAL CHIMNEY
When installing the flue pipe, make sure all joints are se-
cured with at least three (3) sheet metal screws. This
includes the connection to the flue collar of the furnace.
For added protection, use some high temperature furnace
cement to seal each joint.
When using a metal chimney, part of the installation pack-
age should include a stove pipe connector. Follow the in-
structions provided with the chimney and its parts.
CHIMNEY DRAFT REGULATORS
(OPTIONAL) BAROMETRIC DAMPER
These devices are used to help maintain adequate chimney
draft automatically. They should be installed according to
their instructions and set at .04 to .06 inches of water
column.
The stove pipe should slope upward to the chimney at a
rate of 1/ 2 inch per foot. Any horizontal runs of stove pipe
should not exceed six (6) feet and it should be supported
every four (4) feet. Note: Flue pipe should be attached
inside the flue pipe collar to prevent creosote from running
down onto electrical motors.
MANUAL DAMPER
(RECOMMENDED FOR ADDED SAFETY)
These are used to control chimney draft manually and should
be installed in a convenient place between furnace and
chimney. In the event of a chimney fire, it should be closed
reducing air to the chimney fire.
CONNECTION OF FLUE PIPE TO
A MASONRY CHIMNEY
When connecting flue pipe to a masonry chimney, there
are two ways to go:
1. The flue pipe itself can be cemented into the chim
ney or;
A combination of both barometric damper and manual
damper may be used. If this is the case, install the manual
damper between the barometric damper and the chimney.
2. A thimble can be used which is cemented into the
chimney, and the flue pipe fits into the thimble.
VENTILATIONFORYOURFURNACE
In each case, care must be taken. The outer masonry
(brick or block) must be chipped away, and the inner liner
must be pierced. The flue pipe or thimble is then inserted
flush to the inside face of the tile liner. NOT ANY FURTHER!
There are many appliances which require "make up" air to
operate. However, with a combustion air draft fan, "make-
up" air is not usually necessary with your wood furnace.
If your home is sealed exceptionally well, use a 3" or 4"
diameter duct vented to the outside and terminating in the
vicinity of the combustion air draft fan. Also, it is possible
for your fans to draw in furnace smoke if there is only dead
air in the area. Note: It's highly recommended that a cold
air return system be utilized. Simply attach a 14" round to
a filter box adapter and attach to cold air return. Also, a
Use furnace cement or mortar to seal this connection. When
connecting the flue pipe, make sure the attachment is se-
cure enough so down draft or "puffs" do not dislodge it.
cold air return increases motor life.
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NOTE: Your furnace may come partially pre-assembled, but in the case that it is not, follow the instruc-
tions below.
Prior to assembling, place the unit in the general vicinity of the installation. This should help minimize handling damage
to the unit after assembly. Note: If your basement can't handle a height of 7' 8" you must lay the furnace on two, 2 x 4's
to slide shrouds onto weldment. Then stand furnace up.
3. Attach the draft fan to the back of the weld on the
throat (2" throat hole with 3 mounting holes). It's best
1. Unit side shrouds can be assemble by slipping the side
to use the self tapping screws without the draft fan to
shrouds into place from the top down. If they don't
establish threads then mount blower. The electrical
slide easily, open up the lip of the sides with a large
box on the blower should be facing downward. Draft
screw driver then add a little oil. Sometimes a slight
fan air intake cover should be set at a 20% opening,
tapping with a block of wood and hammer may be re-
about 1/ 2" opening.
quired, but do not force. When properly installed, the
electrical knock-outs will be at the top left side. NOTE:
Should you wish to install a domestic hot water coil, it
should be secured to the right side prior to assembly.
Also, the rear cast iron baffle must be fastened prior to
shroud installation.
DRAFTFAN
NOTE: The furnace is partially prewired all that is re-
quired is the wiring of the distribution fan (see wiring
diagram, page 18) and the wiring to wall the thermo-
stat.
REAR OF FURNACE
DISTRIBUTION FAN
4. After mounting the two (2) fans proceed to the fan
control center.
DISTRIBUTION FAN
Attaching the distribution fan. First, remove the four
(4) bolts from the rear of the unit. Secondly, slide the
distribution fan up to the rear of the furnace, line up
the (4) holes and reattach the bolts and tighten se-
curely.
2.
NOTE: The best maintenance for fan motors is to keep
them clean (exceptionally clean). Oiling with 20W N.
detergent once a season will also help, but cleanliness
is what prolongs motors life. (Two (2) drops on the
draft blade, four (4) drops in the distribution fan.)
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5a. Attaching furnace control center box. To separate outer 7. Wall thermostat should be mounted on an upstairs in-
cover, remove two (2) side screws and pull off black
rheostat knob. Attach box to left side (facing feed door)
with four (4) self-threading screws. One screw in
each corner. (NOTE: Furnace control center is designed
for left side attachment. Should space prohibit such,
reversing shrouds for right side installation is possible,
however, control wires from box will have to be ex-
tended.)
side wall (no outside facing wall) preferably near your
existing thermostat. For more specific information, read
the Honeywell instruction sheet provided with thermo-
stat. Caution: disconnect the power supply before in-
stalling. NOTE: Your wall thermostat and transfer re-
lay are mated Honeywell products for trouble free in-
stallation.
5b. Next, attach the 4x4 junction box below the control
center box, using (2) self-threading screws provided in
the parts bag. (Two starter holes are provided.)
8. Install top shroud (if removed) by simply placing shroud
on to the top of unit, push down, check each corner for
snug fit.
6. Attach low voltage thermostat No. 18 up to 30 ft. run
No. 16 to 15ft. Run (purchase locally) to terminal plate,
screws identified with letters G & R. (Generally top
row center, bottom row right). Snake wire through
holes in top of box. Replace outer covers & control
knob. Under no circumstances should you attempt to
plug in main power cord until all wiring and covers are
in place. NOTE: A ground power cord plug is pro-
vided; however, local codes may require fuse box
mounting.
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CAUTION: Any hot air plenum connection to a furnace must
be constructed of metal.
11. Installing Grates: Install grates together, slip shaker
lug into hole and place grates into frame. Grate arch
faces upward. Check out grate rotation by placing
shaker handle on grate lug (3/ 4"). Grates should ro-
tate freely.
9. Installing collar to top: To install hot air attaching
collar, simply bend all tabs right angle under shroud.
This may be possible with thumbs, if not, remove top
and use small hammer.
NOTE: Grates are designed to withstand high tempera-
tures, however, should you overfire the furnace you
may fuse or melt grates. This happens if furnace re-
ceives too much air caused by leaving the ash and feed
doors open, draft fan cover wide open, and hot coals
or ashes are excessive in ash pan.
10. Install grate frame (if not already installed): Lay 12. Installing Firebrick: Place 5 bricks on each side (10
the first grate frame on the side supports and slide to
the back of the unit. Then install the second grate
frame to the front as shown in the picture above.
brick total). The bricks tuck under firebox seem.
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13. Installing front and rear cast baffles, heat plates.
NOTE: Grate frames and brick will slide forward and
backward to allow baffle to fit. Install front cast baffle
using two (2) 5/ 16 bolts, nuts & washers (7/ 16 wrench
will be needed). Place the side of the baffle that has
the two ribs against the front weld of the firebox. Do
not tighten bolts yet. Place the rear cast baffle to the
back of the firebox but do not attach the bolts at this
time.
15. Installing smoke damper rod to sliding smoke damper.
First, insert rod through hole above feed door and push
forward.
14. Now slip the rear heat plate in behind the rear baffle. 16. Next working through the flue hole behind furnace, line
Attach heat plate to the firebox by using two (2) 5/ 16
bolts, nuts & washers. First, line up the top holes and
tighten bolts. Secondly, line up the holes in the rear
baffle and the heat plate with the firebox and attach by
using two (2) 5/ 16 bolts, nuts & washers. Tighten all
four (4) bolts. NOTE: to reach rear bolts you may find
it easier to put your arm through the flue outlet rather
than to reach through the feed door.
up rod between the two posts on the sliding smoke
damper. Then line up the three (3) holes for cotter pin
insertion, this procedure will test your patience. It's
helpful to have a flashlight and another person posi-
tioning the rod.
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17. Reposition door latches, feed and ash door.
For shipping purposes, door latches are on backwards.
Unfasten 7/ 16" nuts, reverse and snug fairly tight
(latches must move freely).
19. Attach flue pipe to flue collar. Flue pipe (6") fits inside
furnace flue collar. Finish off with three (3) metal
screws. NOTE: Flue pipe connections flow downward
so creosote can return to furnace for burn up.
18. Installing steel smoke shield. Two (2) holes are pro-
vided above each corner of the feed door. Slide the
two (2) bolts, supplied in the parts bag, into the holes.
Next, place the two (2) clips provided onto each bolt
and then attach the two (2) nuts on each bolt. Before
tightening the bolts and nuts securely, slide the smoke
shield up under the clips, lining them with the slots in
the smoke shield. Tighten the (2) bolts and nuts. (NOTE:
The smoke shield should be able to swing back and
forth.) The smoke shield will help prevent smoke back
puffing if you have a lazy flue.
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Accessories
Filter Box
Part # 24CRM
NOTE:DRAWINGSAREFORILLUSTRATION PURPOSESONLY. ACTUALPRODUCTSMAYLOOKDIFFERENTLY.
Domestic Hot Water Coil
Part # 11WCK
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WIRING DIAGRAM
THERMAL DISC
DISTRIBUTION FAN
ROOM
THERMOSTAT
NOTE: RHEOSTAT IS ADJUSTABLE. IN CASE OF LOW VOLTAGE
TURN COUNTERCLOCKWISE UNTIL BLOWER WILL RUN, BUT
NOT STALL, WHEN POWER IS RETURNED TO UNIT.
(1) HI-SPEED PT# 80389
ENERGIZES WHEN UNIT IS
FIRED AGGRESSIVELY ONLY.
(2) LOW SPEED PT# 80388
ADJUSTABLE IN APPROX.
5 DEGREE STEPS. A LOW
SETTING TURNS BLOWER ON
SOONER.
BLUE
ORANGE
RHEOSTAT
Y
G
W
C
R
Rotate here
with flat-blade
screwdriver
PT# 80090
(3)
PT# 80390
BLACK
RED
(LOCATED ON LEFT
OF BOX)
1
3
6
2
5
4
(2)
PT# 80388
THERMAL DISC
FAN ADJUSTMENT
COIL
COIL
DRAFT FAN
(3) HI LIMIT PT# 80390
DE-ENERGIZES WHEN UNIT
REACHES TEMPERATURES OF
APPROX. 170 DEGREES
BLUE
BLACK
(LOCATED ON RIGHT
SIDE, TOP)
RELAY
(1)
PT# 80389
BOTTOM
BLACK
BROWN
BLUE
(LOCATED ON RIGHT
SIDE, BOTTOM)
BLACK
WHITE
PURPLE
BLACK
GREEN
120 VAC
60 Hz
15 AMPS
WHITE
BLACK
BLUE
PURPLE
NOTE: WIRES FROM
DISTRIBUTION FAN
RUN DIRECTLY INTO
THE 4 x 4 JUNCTION
BOX.
BLACK
BLUE
ORANGE
NOTE:
CAP OFF “RED”
WIRE WITH A
WIRE NUT.
DISTRIBUTION
FAN
PT# C60456
DRAFT FAN
PT# 80392
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Control Box & Electrical Component
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
Wall Thermostat
*110 degrees Adjustable Thermo Disk
*140 degrees Thermostat
*170 degrees Thermo Limit Disk
*Relay Transformer
Air Distribution Fan
Draft, Fan
* Control Box Components
10 BASIC FUNCTIONS OF
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1. Wall mounted thermostat requests heat...electrical
contact occurs.
Your new furnace is now completely assembled and ready
2. Current is sent through relay, rheostat, 170 degrees to be installed. Make sure you followed the sections on
thermo limit disk to activate draft fan.
3. Relay...electrical switching device,
installation in the front of this manual.
Rheostat...current (voltage) reducer increases or de-
creases draft fan R.P.M.
170 degrees limit disk...breaks off electrical current at
170 degrees (limit disk)
Draft fan...small fan that activates fire, increasing fire
temperature.
OPERATION OF YOUR NEW
WOOD BURNING FURNACE.
Check that your draft blower is in working order before
lighting a fire (cover setting 20% open).
4. Upon firebox temperature rise due to air from draft
fan, distribution fan is activated at approximately 110
degrees air temperature, 600 CFM of air at 110 de-
grees.
5. 110 volts (main electrical line) is sent to left side of 140
degrees thermo disk (3 prongs) current passes through
140 degrees disk to 110 degrees disk. Current simply
waiting for 110 degrees so it can pass through and
activate normal speed function of distribution fan. (blue
wire)
6. If 110 degrees firebox air temperature is not main-
tained snap disk terminates current to distribution fan.
Should firebox temperature air reach 140 degrees cur-
7. rent is directed to activate high speed portion 1300
CFM of air. Current travel from prong 1 to prong 2 on
140 degrees disk to activate high speed portion (black
wire).
Do this by turning the room thermostat to a high tempera-
ture so that the draft blower turns on, then turn the ther-
mostat back to proper setting thus turning the draft air
blower off. Should draft blower not function, check to see
if rheostat setting is on.
NOWPROCEEDWITHLIGHTINGAFIRE.
1.
Pull bypass damper out (opens up flue hole).
2.
Make sure your flue pipe damper is open. Place sev-
eral pieces of crumpled paper in the center of your
firebox. In a crisscross pattern, place a couple of hand-
fuls of dry kindling wood, then several small dry pieces
of firewood.
Distribution Capacitor: Reduces amps required to ac-
8. tivate distribution fan.
Varistor: Provides even flow of current to snap disk,
9. prevents electrical surges, provides longer life of snap
disk.
CAUTION:
Transformer: Reduces voltage 110 volts to 12 volts for
10. thermostat usage. Generally hums a bit.
Never use chemicals or fluids such as gasoline, char-
coal lighter fluid, drain oil or kerosene to light a fire in
your furnace. This would be like checking the level of
gas in your car with a lighted match.
The above is somewhat basic, however, it's offered so you
can understand your furnaces electrical functions and en-
joy it more.
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3. Ignite the paper and close the door. Do not attempt to
open the door immediately after igniting the fire. There
could be a flame flash out.
CAUTION
Never let ashes build up to grate level. This will re-
duce the life span of your grate, and void grate war-
ranty.
4. It will take a few minutes for the fire to establish itself.
Once you have some good red hot burning coals, add
larger pieces of wood. All Chimneys and hookups act
differently. After a while, you will find out how your
unit works best for starting.
To remove ash pan simply open ash door and pull out your
ash pan. But remember, the ash pan can get very hot.
Dump ashes in a metal container with a lid and place on a
non-combustible surface.
5. Push in bypass damper after fire has progressed.
6. Your furnace is capable of putting out many BTU's, so
don't fully load your furnace until you have become
familiar with the operation of the furnace. Keep in
mind, a full load will not always give you the best re-
sults for your needs. Note: With new steel, there is a
small amount of oil or dirt on the metal. You may smell
an odor. This is normal during the first operation. You
may want to assemble the furnace out of doors and
build a small fire in it to "burn off" this dirt and oil
before installing the unit.
CAUTION
Never use anything but a metal container to put your
ashes in. Every year fires are caused by emptying
ashes into cardboard boxes or paper bags.
MAINTENANCE
Keep chimney and flue pipe clean by cleaning at least twice
during a heating season.
7. When loading your furnace that has existing hot coals,
pull the bypass damper out and rake the red hot em-
bers over grate evenly. Put a few smaller pieces of
wood on the coals first, then load up to the middle of
the feed door.
CREOSOTE-
FORMATION AND NEED FOR
REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to
form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the rela-
tively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
8. Set rheostat setting for type and condition of coal or
wood. Hard coal and wood requires more forced air
than soft, so experiment with dial setting. Start with a
center dial setting. The draft fan cover also requires
experimenting with. Start with a 20% opening.
9. Set the furnace thermostat for comfort. Set the other
thermostat 10 degrees lower.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected
at least twice monthly during the heating season to deter-
mine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
10. Use caution when opening loading door. Avoid open-
ing loading door rapidly. This could cause flames to
flash out the door. This occurs when there is unburned
fuel and a large amount of gases on the top of the
firebox. When the door is opened oxygen is combined
with the gases and ignites.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to re-
duce the risk of a chimney fire.
CAUTION
If you have a chimney fire, we recommend the follow-
ing immediate actions:
1. Alert everyone in the house.
ASH REMOVAL
Every morning when there is just a bed of hot embers,
shake the grate very, very lightly.
2. Shut any furnace doors, disconnect power to the
unit, and close any dampers. This should take no
longer than a few seconds.
Once every week or two, depending on how much fuel you
burn, ashes should be removed. Note: A 2" to 3" bed of
ashes will prolong wood burning and protect grates.
3. Call the fire department.
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Keeping your chimney and stove pipe clean is the best in- and produce less smoke. Once the fire is WELL ESTAB-
surance against chimney fires. Note: Smoke detectors LISHED add coal to the center of the firebox forming the
and fire extinguishers should always be a part of your equip- cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat to drive off the
ment.
volatile gases, and turbulence created increases the burn
efficiency. You will have to experiment with your particular
If you clean your own chimney and stove pipe, we recom- setup as no two chimney's or installations are going to be
mended purchasing the equipment professionals use. Wire the same. Just remember to allow enough secondary air
brushes are available in enough sizes and shapes to be a to enter the firebox and keep your stove pipe damper open
snug fit inside any common flue.
so that volatiles are properly burned. Before refueling, take
the time to break up the cone a little with a poker, espe-
Once a week let your furnace burn with ash door open for cially if it has caked over or formed a crust. But, be careful
a maximum of fifteen minutes while in attendance. This not to mix the coal as this increases the chances of forming
will help minimize creosote buildup. Also placing a surface clinkers. When shaking the grate(s) be gentle. Just a few
magnetic thermometer on flue pipe is helpful to keep tem- short movements is better than a lot of agitation. The ob-
peratures at 300 to 400 degrees. Duct temperatures should jective is to remove a small amount of the ashes without
be 115 to 125 degrees at 12" above furnace.
disturbing the fire. Stop when you see a glow in the ashes
or the first red coals fall into the ash pan. Excessive shak-
ing wastes fuel and can expose the grate(s) to very high
temperatures which can cause warpage or burnout.
BURNING COAL
Your furnace is capable of burning both Bituminous and
Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps the best coal fuel
because its long even burn time, high heat output, and
cleanliness make it a good choice for the home. However,
keep in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to use, requires
more care and patience, is not so widely available, and is
usually much more expensive than bituminous.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake
the fire and add coal, retaining your center cone. Once the
volatiles are burned off, close the feed door and adjust
your stove pipe damper. Then adjust your thermostat to
the desired heat level.
You will have more MAINTENANCE with bituminous than
with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heating
surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning.
SIZE OF COAL: Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will
work in your New Furnace, for best results we recommend
large nut coal to small egg coal (1-3/ 4" dia. to 4" dia.).
When burning Anthracite, use egg or broken with sizes
between 2-5/ 16" thru 4-3/ 8". Note that it is important to
the long life of your furnace to buy coal which has been
sized and cleaned. Cleaning insures removal of rocks and
other materials. Never use coal smaller than 1" or larger
than 5" in diameter. Small sized coal will smother the fire.
Too large a size of coal will not burn well.
ANTHRACITE: Before starting the fire open - the
stove pipe damper, open the ash pit door and feed door,
place newspaper, finely split kindling on the grate, and light
the paper. Add larger hard wood after kindling is burning
brightly. CAUTION: Never use gasoline, lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or other flammable
liquids to start or freshen up a fire in this heater.
Place the larger pieces of wood on the fire so that they are
slightly separated and form a level for the addition of coal.
It will take 10 to 20 minutes before this wood is thoroughly
ignited. Adding coal too soon will cut the air supply and
smother the fire.
STOVE OPERATION: All coal fires should be started
with wood which will allow the fire to get hot enough to
ignite the coal. The best ignition fires utilize dry pine or
other resinous soft woods as kindling, with hard wood (oak,
hickory, ash) added to increase the heat prior to addition of
the coal.
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the
wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut off
the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal
is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a third layer
to bring the coal up to the top of the front liner (not above!).
Be sure you have closed your ash door.
BURNING BITUMINOUS: Once your kindling and
wood fire has produced a bed of well established coals,
start adding coal in layers allowing each to ignite before
adding more. Bituminous has a high volatile content and,
as a result, should be fired with the "conical method" - with
the highest portion of your firebed in the center of the fire-
box. The first flames will be long and generally orange or
yellow and produce quite a bit of smoke. As the gases
bu rn off the flam es becom e shorter, change color
Before adding further fuel, be sure you leave a red spot of
glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that you
have not smothered the fire and to help ignite the
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gases given off by the new charge. A deep charge will give DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous coal,
a more even heat and a longer fire, but it may take one to sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes called
two hours before the whole bed is fully ignited.
channel coal or candle coal). NEVER burn wax or chemi-
cally impregnated sawdust logs - their intended use is for
When the fire is well established and the room is becoming fireplaces only. NEVER fill your stove or furnace above the
warm, partially close the dampers. You will have to experi- firebrick or cas iron liner.
ment with your particular setting of the damper and con-
trols as your chimney provides the draft necessary to not
only exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air into the
SHAKING
heater as well - and no two chimney's perform the same.
Leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent
the fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to
reduce the draft on the fire. With anthracite you will see
short blue flames above the coal, except when the fire is
started or a new charge is added. If, however, there is no
flame then the fire needs more air from the bottom (unless
it is near the end of its burn cycle and needs to be re-
charged).
Shaking should be done only when there is a hot fire.
The frequency of shaking will depend on the degree of
burning. Shaking should be done at least once a day and
preferably twice a day.
Best results from shaking the rocker grates will occur if
short "choppy" strokes are used rather than long, even
strokes.
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth
is it time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open your
stove pipe damper, which will allow the fire to burn off any
accumulated gases. Open the feed door, and with a small
rake, hoe or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the
front of the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too much.
Next, add a fresh charge to the back being careful not to
seal off the top. Close the feed door but leave the spin
damper open for a few minutes until the volatile gases have
burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the ashes
each time you refuel your furnace. Experience will be your
best teacher.
The amount of shaking is critical. Too little or too much of
both can result in the extinguishing of a fire due to blocked
air flow. The proper amount normally occurs when red
coals first start to drop through onto the bed of ashes.
No furnace ever should be "poled" from the top. This can
lead to clinker formation and compacting of the coal and
ashes, which results in clogged air passages.
BANKING THE FIRE: For extended operation, such as over-
night, you will need to bank the fire. To do so heap coal up
along the sides and back of the firebox so that the fire
gradually burns it over a longer period of time. You will
also reduce the intensity of the fire without letting it go out.
Follow the same procedure as for refueling. If possible,
avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce
the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading, let
the fire establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close
your damper to the point where the house does not be-
come too cold. It is important that you begin banking early
enough before retiring or leaving that you can make neces-
sary adjustments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, you should (1) open
the ash door and stove pipe damper to get a good draft
through the grate. (2) place a thin layer of dry coal over
the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE
FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the fresh coal has become
well ignited shake the grate (just a little) and you will be
ready to refuel.
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• Poking the fire from the top.
ASHES
Ashes never should be allowed to accumulate in the ash
pit so that they in any way impede the flow of combustion
air to the fire. Excess ash accumulation can cause the fire
to go out and also can cause severe damage to the grates
because of the absence of a cooling flow of air beneath
them.
• Too little air (draft) after a long, hot fire (caused by
rapid adjustment of draft from a very high setting to a low
setting).
If clinkers do form, the coal quality should be checked
first, and then all the above points should be reviewed
and corrected.
Ashes always should be emptied into a metal container.
Coals can remain hot many hours after a fire is out. Coal
ashes should not be put on gardens as they do not contain
SAFETY
beneficial minerals like wood ashes, and may cause ground Whenever a loading door is opened, the bypass damper
water pollution.
should be opened first (use a glove to protect you hand),
and the door should be cracked slightly (for about ten (10)
Coal produces considerably more ash than wood, so the seconds) to allow oxygen to enter and burn any combus-
intervals between emptying are much shorter. For equal tible gases that are present before fully opening. Failure
heat output, coal will produce seven (7) to ten (10) times to do this could result in sudden ignition of the unburned
more ash than wood.
gases when the door is opened.
With the exception of the start-up period, the ash pit door
should never be left open. Serious damage to the stove
can occur from overheating. In extreme cases, this over-
heating could be the cause of an "unfriendly fire".
CLINKERS
Clinkers can occur in any coal furnace during the process
of burning. These are hard pieces of fused ash that form
in the firebox. They can become hard and large in size
and, therefore, cannot be shaken through the grates in a
coal stove. When there is an appreciable accumulation,
the fire will go out because insufficient air is allowed to
pass through the clinkers to the burning coal.
Coal furnaces are subject to the same installation clear-
ance standards as wood furnaces. Never burn coal in any
furnace that does not have an airtight, unified chimney
system.
Once large clinkers have formed, they can be removed
only from above the grates. This usually means the fire
must be allowed to go out before they can be removed.
Coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney that
has had a history of back-drafting or flow reversal. Also,
coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney hav-
ing an excessively large flue. These conditions can cause
improper draft, resulting in carbon monoxide entering the
house rather than being drawn up the chimney. Remem-
ber, coal gases are toxic.
Clinkers formation can occur from a number of different
causes or a combination of causes. Some of these are:
• Poor quality coal-excess ash content and/ or too low a
heat of fusion.
Sulfur dioxide, sulfur trioxide and other ions released from
coal burning may corrode stainless and masonry chim-
neys, and even terra cotta chimney liners and brick in
nearby buildings. Coal with high sulfur content will de-
stroy chimneys especially fast if soot sits in the flue for
extended lengths of time. It is important to clean chim-
neys regularly.
• Too hot a fire (too much draft).
• Too shallow a bed of coals.
• Too deep a bed of coals.
• Excessive Shaking.
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Trouble-Shooting
TROUBLE-SHOOTING, PROBLEM SOLVING FOR YOUR FURNACE
1. Problem: Smoke puffs from furnace.
4. Problem: Distribution blower vibrating.
Solution:
Solution:
A.
Check chimney draft. Check for blocked chim
ney or flue pipe. Use mirror to check chimney
clearance.
A.
B.
C.
Tighten Allen Screw on squirrel cage.
Check for bad fan bearings.
Also oil 3-4 drops of 20w non detergent oil.
B.
C.
D.
Check ash pit - if too full, empty.
Make sure furnace room is not too airtight.
Make sure all chimney mortar connections are
air tight.
5. Problem: Distribution blower continues to run or will
not run.
Solution:
E.
F.
Check clean out door. Make sure it's airtight.
Check chimney for possible down-draft caused
by taller surrounding trees or objects. Correct
with proper chimney vent cap.
Check the possibility of cold chimney forcing
cool gas blockage. Remedy by properly insu
lating chimney with noncombustible liner and
non- combustible insulation.
A.
Check to see if thermodisc 110 degrees (top
right side) is faulty. Use match or lighter for
click or jumper wire.
Check to see that blower is properly wired. (See
Wiring and Assembly Instructions).
B.
G.
6. Problem: Draft blower continues to run or will not run.
Solution:
H.
I.
Fuel may be too wet.
Make sure no other fuel burning devices are
connected to the chimney impairing the draft.
A.
Check rheostat switch for on position. Check
wiring.
B.
C.
Check thermostat or thermostat wire for short.
Make sure temperature is calling for or not call
ing for heat. Set thermostat at 80 degrees.
Check to see if thermodisc 170 degrees (left
side) is faulty. Use match or lighter for click or
jumper wire.
2. Problem: Inadequate heating being delivered to your
home.
Solution:
A.
B.
D.
Check home insulation - is it adequate?
Check hookup to furnace - is it installed cor
rectly? (review manual)
Problem: Odor from first fire.
7. Solution:
A. The odor remains, call your dealer immedi -
ately. A defective weld can cause a fume leak.
C.
D.
E.
F.
Cool air inlet may be inadequate or furnace
room too airtight, 14" inlet for 12" outlet.
Your wood fuel may be too low grade. Hard
woods are recommended.
Make sure your hot air duct (and other duct
work) is airtight.
Problem: Excessive creosote.
8. Solution:
A. Check the grade of wood you are burning.
If furnace room is warm but your home isn't,
check back draft dampers.
B.
Make sure your unit is serviced by its own
proper chimney.
G.
H.
I.
Is air inlet to the blower open? Check filters.
Fuel may be too wet.
Check draft blower cover, setting 1/ 2" open
ing.
C.
D.
check length of flue pipe and its connections.
Make sure you are burning the smallest, hot
test fire to adequately heat your home.
Also see Solutions to Problem 1.
Use a magnetic surface thermometer on flue
pipe and operate between 300 and 400 degrees.
J.
Rheostat setting is fully open.
E.
F.
3. Problem: Excess smoke or flames coming out door
when refueling.
Solution:
Problem: Poor seal around unit door.
9. Solution:
A. Bend door latch in to tighten seals.
A.
Open bypass damper. Wait 15 seconds and
open door slowly - then refuel.
B.
C.
D.
E.
Check length of flue pipe to chimney. Your unit
should be within six (6) feet of your chimney.
Make sure chimney cap is not too close to the
top of the chimney.
Check chimney draft-make sure chimney flue
pipe is clean and chimney is of adequate height.
Make sure you're not suffocating the fire with
excess amounts of unburned fuel.
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Notes
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HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS
THIS MANUAL WILL HELP YOU OBTAIN EFFICIENT, DEPENDABLE SERVICE FROM
YOUR FURNACE, AND ENABLE YOU TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS CORRECTLY.
KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
WHEN WRITING, ALWAYS GIVE THE FULL MODEL NUMBER WHICH IS ON THE
NAMEPLATE ATTACHED TO THE HEATER.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION AS SHOWN IN THIS LIST:
1. THE PART NUMBER
2. THE PART DESCRIPTION
3. THE MODEL NUMBER: 24AF
24AG
24AZ
4. THE SERIAL NUMBER: ____________________
UNITED STATES STOVE COMPANY
227 INDUSTRIAL PARK ROAD
PO BO X 151
SOUTH PITTSBURG, TN 37380
(423)
837-2100
R
US
www.USSTOVE.com
Page 28
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