WOOD BURNING
CIRCULATOR HEATER
MODEL EC95
Installation, Operation and Maintenance Instructions
TABLE OF CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION ................................................................................................................................................ 1
BUILDING CODES AND SAFETY STANDARDS ................................................................................................................................ 2
HOW THIS HEATER OPERATES ........................................................................................................................................................ 2
SELECTING A LOCATION FOR THE HEATER................................................................................................................................... 2
FLOOR PROTECTION ........................................................................................................................................................................ 4
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEYS ........................................................................................................................................ 4
HEATER INSPECTION ........................................................................................................................................................................ 8
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION.................................................................................................................... 8
HEATER INSTALLATION ..................................................................................................................................................................... 8
MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS AND CEILINGS ...................................................................................... 8
TO SAFELY AND PROPERLY INSTALL THIS HEATER ................................................................................................................. 9
HEATER OPERATION ....................................................................................................................................................................... 10
TO BUILD A FIRE ......................................................................................................................................................................... 10
FIRETENDING ............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
WOOD FACTS .............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THE HEATER AND VENTING SYSTEM (ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) ................................................... 12
HEATER MAINTENANCE ............................................................................................................................................................ 12
DISPOSAL OF ASHES................................................................................................................................................................. 12
VENTING SYSTEM ( CHIMNEY AND CHIMNEY CONNECTOR) ............................................................................................... 12
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE-CORROSION INSPECTION...................................................................................................... 12
TROUBLESHOOTING ....................................................................................................................................................................... 13
THE VENTING SYSTEM-KEY TO GOOD HEATER PERFORMANCE ........................................................................................ 13
WHAT TO DO IF THE HEATER SMOKES, BURNS POORLY OR EXCESSIVE CREOSOTE ACCUMULATES IN THE CHIMNEY ....... 13
WHAT TO DO IF THE HEATER BURNS TO RAPIDLY OR OVERHEATS .................................................................................... 14
QUICK REFERENCE TO THE MOST COMMON SOLUTIONS FOR THE MOST COMMON HEATER OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS ... 14
FINAL CHECKLIST OF DO’S AND DON’TS ............................................................................................................................................... 15
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION AND REPAIR PARTS ......................................................................................................................... 16
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. FOR YOUR SAFETY,
FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRIC-
TIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
To assure that satisfactory and safe service is received from this heater:
1. Read these instructions entirely before beginning any part of the installation.
2. Use these instructions as a guide during the installation of the heater.
3. Be sure these instructions become the property of and are reviewed by all future users of this heater to encourage proper
operation and maintenance of this appliance.
This heater is designed to burn wood only and to provide heat to one or more rooms. Because of its radiating characteristics,
this heater must be installed as an unenclosed, freestanding unit with clearances to combustibles as specified by these
instructions. This heater must be connected to a Listed Factory-Built Residential Type and Building Heating Appliance Chim-
ney or a properly constructed and maintained masonry chimney.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
This heater is not designed to burn coal, liquid fuels, and gaseous fuels or household refuse. Any attempt to burn these type
fuels, to enclose the heater or to attach the heater to an air circulation system or a stoking device can be very hazardous.
THIS HEATER IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED IN A MOBILE HOME.
851394 A
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FIGURE 3 - MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES
FIGURE 4 - MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES
SIDE SECTION VIEW
PLAN SECTION VIEW
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FIGURE 5 - FLOOR PROTECTION
FLOOR PROTECTION
This heater has been designed to prevent excessive temperatures on the floor beneath the heater. It is important, however, that
a combustible floor be protected by a 3/8 inch minimum thick noncombustible inorganic millboard having a
thermal conductivity of K=0.43 BTU/ft.2/in./hr./°F or a listed floor protector beneath the heater extending beyond the heater as
shown by figure 5. The floor covering is required to prevent damage or possible ignition from sparks or glowing embers that
might escape the heater during refueling or ash removal or drop from the joints of the chimney connector.
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEYS
It is very important to assure safe and satisfactory performance
from your heater that it be properly connected to a correctly
constructed and maintained chimney. If a Listed High Temperature
Type HT Factory-Built Residential and Building Heating Appliance
Chimney is used, follow the chimney manufacturer’s installation
instructions carefully. If a masonry chimney is to be used, be sure
it is constructed to the National Fire Protection Association
(N.F.P.A) and local code standards. A copy of the N.F.P.A 211
Chimney, Fireplaces, Vents and solid Fuel Burning Appliances
may be obtained from N.F.P.A., Inc. Batterymarch Park, Quincy,
MA 02269.
FIGURE 6 - RISE OF HORIZONTAL
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE
RISE:
1/4" FOR EACH FOOT
OF CONNECTOR
LENGTH
The Chimney connector (pipe from heater to chimney) must be
6 inches in diameter and made from 24 gauge or heavier steel.
The length of the chimney connector and number of elbows used
should be kept to a minimum. Moisture that might collect in the
chimney should be directed to the heater by providing a slope of
1/4 inch per foot in a horizontal run of the chimney connector and
installing all pipes with the crimped end toward the heater, (See
figure 6). The chimney connector should extend at least two
inches into the flue of a factory-built chimney. When making a
horizontal connection to a masonry chimney, the connector should
TO CHIMNEY
extend to the inside face of the vertical flue liner, (see figures 7 and 8). When connecting the heater to a masonry fireplace, the
chimney connector should extend into the chimney’s liner as shown by the side section view of figure 4. All chimney connector
joints should be sealed with furnace cement and secured with No. 8 sheet metal screws as described by the TO SAFELY AND
PROPERLY INSTALL THIS HEATER section of this manual.
DO NO USE MORE THAN TWO 90 DEGREE ELBOWS IN THE Chimney CONNECTOR. Installations which require two degree
elbows must be vented into a flue of at least 8” diameter or 8” square to prevent chimney draft restrictions, (see figure 2).
DO NOT PASS A CHIMNEY CONNECTOR THROUGH A FLOOR OR CEILING OF ANY KIND. Only Listed Factory-Built Residen-
tial Type and Building Heating Appliance Chimneys or masonry chimneys constructed to N.F.P.A. standards should pass through
a floor or ceiling.
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There are five allowable ways that a chimney connector can be connected to a masonry chimney by passing
through a combustible wall. NFPA Standard 211 allows the following wall pass-through systems.
1.
Use a minimum 3-1/2" thick brick masonry wall framed into the combustible wall. A fireclay liner (ASTM C315 or
equivalent) having a 5/8" minimum wall thickness must be used and it must be at least 12" away from any material that
could catch fire. The inside diameter of the fireclay liner shall be sized for the proper snug fit of a 6" diameter chimney
con nector pipe. The fireclay liner shall run from the outer surface of the brick wall to, but not beyond, the inner surface
of the chimney flue and shall be firmly cemented in place. See Part A of Figure 7.
2.
Use a solid insulated listed factory-built chimney length having an inside diameter of 6" and having 1" or more of solid
insulation. There must be at least a 9" air space between the outer wall of the chimney length and any combustible
materials. The inner end of the chimney length shall be flush with the inside of the masonry chimney flue shall be
sealed to the flue and to the brick masonry penetration with nonwater-soluble refractory cement. Sheet steel supports
which are at least 24 gauge(0.024") in thickness shall be securely fastened to wall surfaces on all sides. Fasteners
between supports and the chimney length shall not penetrate the chimney liner. See Part B of Figure 7.
Use a 10" diameter ventilated thimble made of at least 24 gauge(0.024") steel having two 1" air channels. The
ventilated thimble must be separated from combustible materials by a minimum of 6" glass fiber insulation. The
opening in the combustible wall shall be covered and the thimble supported with sheet steel supports which are at
least 24 gauge (0.024") in thickness. The sheet steel supports shall be securely fastened to wall surfaces on all sides
and shall be sized to fit and hold the chimney section. Fasteners used to secure chimney sections shall not penetrate
chimney flue liner. See Part C of Figure 7.
Use an 8" inside diameter solid insulated listed factory-built chimney length which has 1" or more of solid insulation.
The minimum length of this chimney section shall be 12" and will serve as a pass-through for the 6" diameter chimney
connector. There must be at least a 12" air space between the outer wall of the chimney section and any combustible
materials. The chimney section shall be concentric with and spaced 1" away from the chimney connector by means of
sheet steel support plates on both ends of the chimney section. The opening in the combustible wall shall be covered
and the chimney section supported on both sides with sheet steel supports which are at least 24 gauge (0.024") in
thickness. The sheet steel supports shall be securely fastened to wall surfaces on all sides and shall be sized to fit and
hold the chimney section. Fasteners used to secure chimney sections shall not penetrate chimney flue liner. See Part
C of Figure 7.
3.
4.
5.
A listed factory-built wall pass-through system may be purchased and installed according to the instructions packaged
with it to provide a safe method of passing the chimney connector through a combustible wall for connection to a
masonry chimney.
Additional requirements pertaining to Figure 5 and the above wall pass-through systems:
1. Insulation material used as part of wall pass-through system shall be of noncombustible material and shall have a
thermal conductivity of 1.0 Btu • in./ft.² • °F (4.88 kg • cal/hr • m² • °C) or less
2. All clearances and thicknesses are minimums: larger clearances and thickness are acceptable.
3. A chimney thimble, as shown for 3" and 4" above (Parts C and D respectively of Figure 7) shall be for types "3" and "4"
connections to facilitate removal of the chimney connector for cleaning. The chimney thimble shall be of ASTM C315
fireclay with 5/8" minimum wall thickness , or material or equivalent durability. The inside diameter of the thimble shall
be sized for the proper snug fit of a 6" diameter chimney connector pipe. The thimble shall be installed without damage
to the chimney flue. The thimble shall extend through the chimney wall to, but not beyond, the inner surface of the
chimney flue and shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.
4. A chimney connector to a masonry chimney, except for 2" above (Part B of Figure 7), shall extend through the wall
pass-through system to the inner face of the chimney flue, but not beyond. It does not have to be fastened in place so
long as it cannot accidently be pulled out of the chimney or shoved into the chimney flue. If fasteners are used to
secure the chimney connector to a masonry chimney, the fasteners shall not penetrate the chimney flue liner.
5. Any material used to close up any opening for the connector shall be noncombustible.
If the chimney connector does not have to pass through a combustible wall to get to a masonry chimney, connect the
chimney connector to the masonry chimney as shown in figure 8. The fireclay liner shown by figure 8 should be sized for
the proper snug fit of a 6” diameter chimney connector pipe. The fireclay liner should be firmly cemented in place as
shown. As previously stated, any metal prefabricated chimney this heater is connected to must be a listed Hi-Temp Type
HT Factory Built Residential Type and Building Heating Appliance Chimney.
When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed precisely. You must
also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and install the ceiling support package or wall pass through and “T” section
package, firestops (when needed), insulation shield, roof flashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain the proper clearance to the
structure as recommended by the manufacturer. This clearance is usually a minimum of 2 inches, although it may vary by
manufacturer or for certain components.
A listed chimney cap should be installed to prevent entrance of rain and help eliminate down drafts. An unapproved
chimney cap, protector or spark arrester can become clogged when leaves or other matter. This blocks the chimney and
causes smoke, and the dangerous carbon monoxide in smoke, to spill back into your home where it can kill you.
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There are basically two methods of metal prefabricated chimney installation. One method is to install the chimney inside
the residence through the ceiling and the roof. The other method is to install an exterior chimney that runs up the outside
of the residence.
REMEMBER: Follow the chimney manufacturer's installation instructions and maintain the manufacturer's specified clear-
ance distance.
Additional chimney information is presented throughout this manual. READ IT THOROUGHLY TO BE MORE THOR-
OUGHLY INFORMED.
CONNECTION OF CHIMNEY CONNECTOR TO A MASONRY CHIMNEY THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL
PART A, FIGURE 7
MINIMUM CHIMNEY CLEARANCE TO
(FIGURE 7 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)
BRICK AND COMBUSTIBLES IS 2 IN.
MINIMUM CLEARANCES 12
IN. OF BRICK ALL AROUND
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR TO
HEATER
FIRE CLAY LINER
MINIMUM 12 IN.
(5/8" MIN. WALL THICKNESS)
TO COMBUSTIBLES
MASONRY CHIMNEY
CONSTRUCTED TO
NFPA 211
MIN. 3-1/2" THICK BRICK
MASONRY WALL
PART B
FIGURE 5 -
MINIMUM CHIMNEY CLEARANCES FROM MASONRY TO
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS AND COMBUSTIBLES 2 IN.
(FIGURE 5 CONTINUED)
FACTORY-BUILT
CHIMNEY LENGTH
MINIMUM CLEARANCE
9 IN. ALL AROUND
NONSOLUBLE
REFACTORY
CEMENT
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
TO HEATER
CHIMNEY LENGTH
FLUSH WITH INSIDE
OF FLUE
USE CHIMNEY MFRS. PARTS TO
ATTACH CONNECTOR SECURELY
AIR SPACE
9 IN. MINIMUM
SOLID INSULATED, LISTED
FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEY LENGTH
MASONRY CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTED
TO NFPA 211
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS
(24 GAUGE MIN. THICKNESS)
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PART C
FIGURE 5
MINIMUM CHIMNEY CLEARANCES FROM MASONRY TO
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS AND COMBUSTIBLES 2 IN.
24 GAUGE
VENTILATED THIMBLE WITH
TWO 1 INCH AIR CHANNELS
CHIMNEY THIMBLE
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
TO HEATER
TWO VENTILATED AIR
CHANNELS EACH 1 INCH.
CONSTRUCTED OF
SHEET STEEL.
MINIMUM 6 IN. GLASS
FIBER INSULATION ALL AROUND
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS
(24 GAUGE MIN. THICKNESS)
MASONRY CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTED
TO NFPA 211
MINIMUM CHIMNEY CLEARANCES FROM MASONRY TO
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS AND COMBUSTIBLES 2 IN.
PART D
FIGURE 5
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS
CHIMNEY SECTION
MINIMUM CLEARANCE
2 IN. ALL AROUND
1 IN. AIR SPACE TO
CHIMNEY LENGTH
CHIMNEY THIMBLE
CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
AIR SPACE
2 IN.
SHEET STEEL SUPPORTS
(24 GAUGE MIN. THICKNESS)
MASONRY CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTED
TO NFPA 211
PART E - (Figure 5)
In addition to the methods shown by A, B, C, and D of Figure 5, a listed factory-built wall pass-through system
may be purchased and installed according to the instructions packaged with it to provide a safe method of
passing chimney connector through a combustible wall for a connection to a masonry chimney.
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FIGURE 8 - CONNECTING HEATER’S CHIMNEY CONNECTOR TO MASONRY CHIMNEY WHEN CHIMNEY CON-
NECTOR DOES NOT HAVE TO PASS THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL
HEATER INSPECTION
Before installing the heater, inspect the heater for external damage and missing parts. Check the gaskets around the
doors to assure that they are still in place. Also check inside the heater. Report any deficiencies found to your heater
dealer and make sure all problems are resolved before installing the heater. See figure 12 for illustration of heater
parts.
TOOLSAND SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
Electric drill 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive
1/8 inch drill bit
Can or tube of furnace cement
Floor protector
Screw driver (blade type and size to fit screws listed below)
No. 8 sheet metal screws (for chimney connector joints)
Rag or several paper towels
Chimney connector pipes (and elbows, if
required
Ruler or tape measure
Pencil
HEATER INSTALLATION
CAUTION: IF THIS HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. FOR YOUR
SAFETY, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION DIRECTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFI
CIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
CAUTION: DO NOT CONNECT THIS HEATER TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE. THERE IS
A SERIOUS SAFETY RISK IF TWO APPLIANCES OR HEATERS ARE CONNECTED TO THE SAME
FLUE.
CAUTION: THE HEATER MUST BE PLACED ON A LISTED FLOOR PROTECTOR AS NOTED IN THIS MANUAL IF
THE FLOOR IS WOOD OR OTHER COMBUSTIBLE FLOORING. IF CARPET IS PRESENT, IT MUST
BE REMOVED. THE FLOOR PROTECTOR MUST NOT BE PLACED ON CARPET. (SEE FIGURE 5).
CAUTION: MOST WALLS AND CEILINGS CONTAIN WOOD EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE MADE OF SHEETROCK
OR PLASTER ON THE OUTSIDE. THESE WALLS AND CEILINGS CAN CATCH FIRE FROM THE HOT
HEATER OR CHIMNEY CONNECTOR IF THE HEATER AND CHIMNEY CONNECTOR ARE NOT PROP-
ERLY INSTALLED.
MINIMUM CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS AND CEILINGS
Minimum clearances to unprotected combustible walls and ceilings as noted by Figures 1 through 4 must be main-
tained. Drapes, curtains, furniture and other combustible materials should be kept much further away from the heater to
avoid a fire. If you chose to, you may install the heater and chimney connector closer to combustible surfaces than
indicated by Figures 1 through 4 if a clearance reduction system is also installed to protect combustible ceiling and wall
near the heater and chimney connector. However, there are limits as to how close the heater and chimney connector
can be installed to combustible surfaces protected by a clearance reductions system.
A correctly installed clearance reduction system protects the combustible surfaces well beyond the sides and above the
top of the heater and beyond the sides and top of the chimney connector pipe.
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Two common types of clearance reductions systems use sheet metal with a thickness of 28 gauge (galvanized steel, aluminum,
copper) or a 3-1/2 inch (4 inch thick nominal) thick masonry wall. Either of these materials must be spaced out 1 inch from the
combustible surfaces. With sheet metal, noncombustible spacers are used to maintain the 1 inch air space. With a masonry
wall, metal wall ties and furring strips, if needed, are used to anchor the brick to the wall. To avoid excessive heat transmission,
the spacers or wall ties should not be placed directly behind the heater or chimney connector. The 1 inch air space provides free
air circulation. It is essential that there be openings at the top and bottom of these clearance reducers so cool air can enter at the
bottom and warm air exit at the top. It is the “chimney effect” whereby when the air in the space is heated, it rises exiting from the
top and being replaced by cooler air at the bottom, that makes these shields effective.
Masonry, or other noncombustible products, attached directly to a combustible surface without an air space offer very little
protection and cannot be considered a clearance reduction system unless specific materials have been tested and listed for
direct attachment to a combustible surface. The same applies to thin veneer brick and stone coverings. These materials provide
adequate protection only when mounted on sheet metal with a 1 inch minimum spacing to the wall.
A variety of prefabricated clearance reduction systems which have been safety tested and listed are available through heater
dealers. Always look for a safety listing label on the product when selecting a clearance reduction system through a heater
dealer and make sure it is designed for use with solid fuel. The manufacturers of these tested and listed systems provide specific
installation instructions that must be followed exactly for a safe installation.
Should you chose to make your own clearance reduction system, contact your local fire department, fire marshal or building code
inspector for specific requirements regarding home-constructed clearance reduction systems and safe installation clearances to
protected combustible surfaces.
TO SAFELY AND PROPERLY INSTALL THIS HEATER:
1. Install a Listed High Temperature Type HT Factory-built Residential Type and Building Heating Appliance Chimney, build a
masonry chimney or adapt an existing chimney to vent the heater. (See the CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEYS section
of this manual for important information).
2. Purchase the 6-inch diameter chimney connector pipes that are required. The pipe should be black or blued steel, 24 gauge
minimum. If elbows are needed, use only seamless elbows because seamed elbows can leak smoke. Do not use more that two
elbows or the chimney draft will be restricted (See the CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEYS section of this manual for
details). Number 8 sheet metal screws and furnace cement will also be needed to assemble the chimney connector pipes. If the
heater is to be installed to a masonry fireplace as shown by figure 4, you should also obtain the fireplace items called for by
figure 4.
3. If the heater is to be installed on a combustible floor, purchase a listed noncombustible floor protector as described in this
manual and install it in the proper location. The floor protector MUST protect the floor beneath and around the heater and
chimney connector as shown by figure 5.
4. Assemble the chimney connector pipe sections to determine if the chimney connector pipe will correctly extend from the
heater flue collar to the chimney. Any horizontal section of chimney connector pipe must slope upward at least 1/4” rise to the
horizontal foot to maintain adequate draft (See figure 6). Always install the chimney connector pipe with the crimped end toward
the heater to prevent creosote from leaking out of the joints (See figure 6). Always use the least number of chimney connector
pipe sections possible. Minimum clearance to combustible walls and ceilings as noted by figures 1 through 4 MUST always be
maintained if a clearance reduction system is not installed.
5. After it is determined that the assembled chimney connector will properly connect the heater to the chimney, disassemble all
sections of the chimney connector in preparation for the final assembly procedures.
6. Place the crimped end of the first chimney connector pipe or elbow into the heater’s flue collar and mark it through each of the
holes in the heater’s flue collar.
7. Remove the pipe or elbow from the flue collar and drill 1/8 inch diameter holes at the points marked by step 6.
8. Apply furnace cement to the inside surface of the heater’s flue collar, reinstall the first pipe or elbow and fasten in place with
No. 8 sheet metal screws. Apply additional furnace cement to the outside of the chimney connector flue collar joint if an airtight
seal was not achieved when the pipe or elbow was installed.
9. Assemble the remaining chimney connector pipes by applying furnace cement to the joints, drilling 1/8 inch diameter holes for
and attaching each joint with three No. 8 sheet metal screws. Wipe all excess furnace cement from the pipe joints with rag or
paper towel. Allow the applied cement to dry before building the first fire in the heater.
10. Depending on your particular type of installation, connect the heater’s chimney connector to a masonry chimney as shown
by figures 7 or 8, or connect the chimney connector to a metal prefabricated chimney as specified by the instructions furnished
with the metal prefabricated chimney or connect the chimney connector to a masonry fireplace as shown by figure 4.
DANGER: IF ANY CLEARANCE TO UNPROTECTED WALL OR CEILING IS LESS THAN THOSE SPECIFIED BY FIGURES 1
THROUGH 4 AFTER HEATER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETED, A CLEARANCE REDUCTION SYSTEM MUST BE IN-
STALLED BEFORE THE FIRST FIRE IS BUILT IN THE HEATER; OTHERWISE, THE UNPROTECTED WALL OR CEILING
COULD CATCH FIRE. REMEMBER, THERE ARE ALSO LIMITS AS TO HOW CLOSE THE HEATER CAN BE INSTALLED TO
A COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE PROTECTED BY A CLEARANCE REDUCTION SYSTEM. REREAD “MINIMUM CLEARANCES
TO WALLS AND COMBUSTIBLE WALLS AND CEILINGS” PRESENTED EARLIER IN THIS MANUAL.
CAUTION: FOR YOUR SAFETY, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT, FIRE MARSHAL, OR BUILDING CODE
INSPECTOR FOR INSPECTION PRIOR TO AND FOLLOWING CLEARANCE REDUCTION SYSTEM AND/OR HEATER
INSTALLATION.
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HEATER OPERATION
IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE THE HEATER UNTIL A PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION HAS BEEN MADE OF THE
ENTIRE INSTALLATION BY YOUR LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT, FIRE MARSHAL OR BUILDING CODE INSPEC-
TOR. INSTALL A SMOKE DETECTOR ON EACH FLOOR OF YOUR HOME; IN CASE OF ACCIDENTAL FIRE FROM
ANY CAUSE IT CAN PROVIDE TIME FOR ESCAPE.
This heater must be operated as outlined in this manual or a serious fire may occur.
THE PAINT ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE FIREBOX WILL GO THROUGH A CURING PROCESS DURING THE FIRST
FIRING OF THE HEATER AND WILL EMIT SMOKE AND ODOR. BE PREPARED FOR THIS BY RAISING A WIN-
DOW OR OPENING A DOOR TO PROVIDE VENTILATION.
The first three times the heater is fired, the fire should be regulated so as to increase in intensity gradually to allow the
painted components to cure slowly and to allow the other components to adjust to their expanded size.
Be sure the room is adequately ventilated and the flue unobstructed before beginning a fire in the heater.
TO BUILD A FIRE
1. Set the heater’s thermostat control knob to the “Hi” position. See figure 9.
2. Open the feed door (see figure 10) and lay paper and kindling on the rate in sufficient quantities to ensure good
ignition.
WARNING: NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER
FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR “FRESHEN UP” A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP ALL SUCH
LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN USE. FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THIS WARNING
COULD CAUSE AN EXPLOSION.
3. Light the fire.
4. Close the feed door (see figure 10).
5. Add larger pieces of wood as the fire gains in intensity. As soon as the fire is established, wood may be added as
desired.
6. MAKE SURE THAT THE FEED DOOR AND CABINET DOOR ARE SECURELY CLOSED. CAUTION: OPERAT
ING THE HEATER WITH THE ASH DOOR OPEN CREATES AN ABNORMAL FIRING CONDITION WHICH CAN
OVER HEAT THE HEATER, CHIMNEY AND ADJACENT COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. THIS CAN DRASTICALLY
SHORTEN THE HEATER’S LIFE AND VOID THE FACTORY WARRANTY.
7. Set the heater’s thermostat control knob to a point midway between “Hi” and “Lo”. If the house or heating situation
requires a higher or lower setting to obtain the desired amount of heat, adjust the thermostat control knob appropri
ately.
FIGURE 9 - HEATER OPERATION INFORMATION
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FIGURE 10 -
OPENING AND CLOSING
FUEL FEED DOOR
FIRETENDING
Firetending is the occasional poking or stirring of the burning fuel bed to ensure airflow through the fire and adding new
wood as needed. With experience, you should determine how often fire tending is required to maintain the desired heat
output of the heater. To ensure safe and satisfactory performance of the heater, the following rules should be observed.
1. KEEP THE FEED DOOR AND ASH DOORS CLOSED EXCEPT WHEN TENDING THE FIRE OR REMOVING
ASHES. Operating the heater with the doors open can cause the heater to overheat and will increase the possibility
of smoke, ash or sparks escaping the heater and damaging the dwelling or its contents.
2. NEVER OPEN THE FEED DOOR WITHOUT FIRST TURNING THE THERMOSTAT TO “”HI” FOR AT LEAST
30 SECONDS.
3. ADD ONLY SMALL AMOUNTS OF FRESH WOOD TO THE HEATER AT EACH REFUELING. Adding large
amounts of fresh wood can cause an accumulation of gases above the fire that can cause backpuffing. Backpuffing
can occur whenever concentrated gasses accumulate over the fire bed and then catch fire quickly. This may cause
smoke and flame to be expelled from the heater during fire tending but under rare conditions, backpuffing can be
severe enough to break apart poorly connected chimney connector pipes. If backpuffing is experienced, see COR
RECTION OF OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS section of this manual. This is an abnormal condition and a potential
hazard. Determine and correct the cause.
4. TURN THERMOSTAT TO “HI” FOR 15 MINUTES AFTER ADDING FRESH WOOD TO A FIRE. This allows the
gases to be driven off and shortens the length of time the dense smoke is likely to deposit creosote on the chimney
walls.
5. DO NOT TAMPER WITH THE INTERNAL THERMOSTAT MECHANISM. The thermostat has been designed and
calibrated to provide continuous control of the fire for safety and efficiency. Thermostat adjustments are made with
the thermostat control knob only. (See figure 9.)
6. PREPARE THE HEATER TO HOLD FIRE ALL NIGHT BY LOADING IT WITH WELL DRIED WOOD AT LEAST AN
HOUR BEFORE BEDTIME. Burn the heater at the normal rate for this hour, then turn it back to a slower burn just
before going to bed. This procedure will help drive excess moisture and gases out of wood and minimize creosote
buildup during the night. This procedure also minimizes the likelihood of backpuffing.
7. DO NOT OVERFIRE THE HEATER. If any part of the heater or chimney connector becomes red hot turn the
thermostat to low and keep the ash and feed doors closed until the heater cools.
WOOD FACTS
The small amounts of wood used in daily fire tending should be kept in a noncombustible container at least 36 inches
from the heater.
Two wood characteristics largely determine the amount of heat energy per cord. The first is moisture content. Wood
must be dry before it will burn properly. When first cut, its moisture content is high so wood burns poorly and encour-
ages the formation of creosote. It should be cut and stored in a dry place several months, preferably a year before it is
used. Splitting the wood before it is stored reduces its drying time and exposing both ends to the air aids in drying.
After wood has been stored from six to twelve months, it will be dried to a moisture content of 15 to 25 percent. This
drying results in more even burning and will minimize the buildup of creosote in your chimney.
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The second factor in determining heat output is its density or weight per cord. With equal seasoning and dryness,
heavier, denser wood has more heating value per cord. For example, hickory is denser wood than pine, so a cord of
hickory will give more heat than a cord of pine.
For longer and safer heater life, never use manufactured composition logs, salt water soaked wood (driftwood), or
chemical additives in this heater.
HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THE HEATER AND VENTING SYSTEM (ROUTINE MAINTENANCE)
HEATER MAINTENANCE
The heater’s outer cabinet may be wiped free of dust with a soft cloth. The use of any other cleaning method may
damage the cabinet’s finish.
Check the following items regularly during the heating season to ensure proper heater operation:
1. Condition of feed door and ash door gaskets--replace if excessive wear is observed.
2. Condition of the feed door, ash door and cabinet latching pawls and handles--ensures that operation will securely
close the door adjust as necessary.
At the end of each heating season, the heater should be thoroughly cleaned of all ashes. Ashes remaining in the heater
in combination with moisture in the air can cause severe corrosion of the heater. All rust spots on the heater should be
wire brushed and covered with a coat of high temperature paint. If the heater is to be stored until the next heating
season, be sure the storage area is dry.
The heater should never be used with damaged or missing parts.
DISPOSAL OF ASHES
Ashes should not be allowed to accumulate until they obstruct the airflow through the burning wood. If ashes are
allowed to accumulate to within two inches of the bottom of the grates, poor burning of the fuel is likely, and the grates
will be damaged from overheating.
When removing the ash pan from the heater, wear gloves to protect your hands from glowing embers and hot surfaces.
ASHES SHOULD BE PLACED IN A METAL CONTAINER WITH A TIGHT FITTING LID. THE CLOSED CONTAINER
OF ASHES SHOULD BE PLACED ON A NONCOMBUSTIBLE FLOOR OR ON THE GROUND, WELL AWAY FROM
ALL COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS, PENDING FINAL DISPOSAL. IF THE ASHES ARE DISPOSED OF BY BURIAL
IN SOIL OR OTHERWISE LOCALLY DISPERSED, THEY SHOULD BE RETAINED IN THE CLOSED CONTAINER
UNTIL ALL CINDERS HAVE THOROUGHLY COOLED.
Ashes should never be placed in wooden or plastic containers, or in paper or plastic bags, no matter how long the fire
has been out. Coals have been known to stay hot for several days when embedded in ashes.
VENTING SYSTEM (CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEY)
The venting system consists of the heater’s chimney connector (the pipe which connects the heater to the chimney)
and the chimney itself.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors which combine the expelled moisture to form
creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result, creosote
residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected twice a month during the heating season to determine if a
creosote buildup has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, if should be removed to reduce the risk of chimney fire. NOTE: When removing creosote
from e chimney connector and chimney, the heater should be disconnected from the chimney connector to prevent the
dislodged creosote from entering the heater.
A chimney fire is usually indicated by a roaring noise within the chimney and/or a pinging noise within the chimney
connector. Well developed chimney fires will emit ash and sparks from the top of the chimney.
If a chimney fire occurs, turn the thermostat to “Lo”, keep the feed, ash and cabinet doors closed, call the fire depart-
ment and protect the roof by wetting it with a garden hose or buckets of water. After the chimney fire is over, thoroughly
inspect all combustible materials around the chimney and chimney connector for fires that might have been ignited by
the intense heat. The chimney and chimney connector should then be inspected for any damage and repairs made if
necessary.
Although a properly constructed chimney should not be damaged by a chimney fire, it is best to prevent chimney fires
by properly cleaning the chimney. There are special chimney cleaning services available in most cities. Most fire
departments make free chimney inspections and can provide assistance in locating chimney cleaning or repair services.
CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE-CORROSION INSPECTION
Chimney connector pipes do not last forever. Corrosion is particularly a problem if the inside of the pipe tends to get
damp from condensation of flue gases or from rain or snow getting into the chimney. Just being on an ocean coast can
also accelerate chimney connector pipe corrosion.
Chimney connector pipe replacement may be necessary more than once a season, but once every few years is more
typical. Every time the chimney and chimney connector are checked for creosote buildup, the strength and integrity of
the chimney connector pipes should also be checked.
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Tap each chimney connector pipe with a small hammer or poke with a screwdriver to reveal where the metal is getting
thin due to corrosion on the inside. Elbows usually give out first. Replace as necessary.
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS INSPECT AND CLEAN THE HEATER’S VENTING SYSTEM BEFORE EACH HEATING
SEASON.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problems can arise during the operation of any wood heater. These problems can usually be traced to such things as
the venting system, draft, aged or failed parts, fuel, and operator error.
The troubleshooting suggestions contained in this section of the manual apply to the operation of all wood heaters.
Experience has shown that correct installation and good operating practices-including routine heater and venting system
maintenance, along with a good sound chimney, will eliminate most of the problems mentioned by this section of the
manual. Nonetheless, wood heater operators should make themselves aware of the nature, cause and solution to
possible problems so as to help themselves obtain the best possible service from this heater.
THE VENTING SYSTEM-KEY TO GOOD HEATER PERFORMANCE
A majority of performance problems with wood burning heaters can be traced to some factor in the venting system that
is adversely affecting the heater. Air will flow into the heater and smoke will flow up the chimney only if there is suffi-
cient difference between the air pressure in the room where the heater is located and the air pressure inside the chim-
ney. As hot gases and smoke flow up a chimney, the pressure in the chimney is lowered, creating a difference in
pressure inside and outside the chimney. When this pressure difference, often referred to as “draft pressure” or simply
as “draft”, is sufficient, air will be drawn into the heater through its thermostatically controlled inlet air damper. This air
supplies the oxygen necessary for the wood to burn. If the draft is not sufficient, insufficient oxygen will reach the
burning wood and it will burn poorly. This condition can also cause smoke and dangerous gases to spill or backpuff
from the heater into the room. Backpuffing occurs when the air flow through the heater is insufficient to burn all the
gases being released by the wood causing them to build up until they ignite as a minor explosion. This causes smoke
to puff out of every opening in the heater and venting system.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperature in the heater. An uncontrollable burn or a glowing red heater part or
chimney connector is an indication of excessive draft. The amount of draft in the chimney depends on the length of the
chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions (even a tree that has grown tall can affect the draft of a chimney that
was previously trouble-free), and other factors.
The common unit used to measure draft is “INCHES IF WATER”. To determine the draft of your chimney, a draft
pressure reading should be taken with a DRAFT METER or a WATER MANOMETER. This requires someone with
proper equipment and knowledge of how to use it. Your heater dealer should be able to preform this task for you or
recommend someone who can.
For this heater, installations with a draft of .02 inches of water or less are considered marginal and will not burn reliably
as noted above. For this heater, it is not recommended that the draft exceed .06 inches of water or overfiring can occur
as noted above. The recommended operating range for this heater is .03 to .06 inches of water.
WHAT TO DO IF THE HEATER SMOKES OR BURNS POORLY OR EXCESSIVE CREOSOTE ACCUMULATES IN
THE CHIMNEY
1. Open a window slightly to see if the conditions improve. If opening a window improved the performance of the heater
or stops the spillage of smoke into the room, the problem is caused by a slight vacuum in the room. The vacuum
can be the result of the room being so tightly constructed that the air removed from the room by the heater is not
replaced by normal infiltration of air from outside the room.
The vacuum can also be caused by the loss of air from the room through the kitchen or bathroom ventilating fans,
other chimneys or vents, etc. The only solution to this type problem is to reduce the air lost from the room or provide
a source for air to enter the room.
2. Check the pipes connecting the heater to the chimney for loose or unsealed joints that may allow air to leak into the
chimney system.
3. Examine your method of building and tending the fire in the heater. If you add too much fresh wood at each refuel
ing, or attempt to operate the heater at too low a combustion rate for the amount of wood present in the firebox, your
failure to follow proper practices may be causing the problem. Also check for ash buildup in the ash pan. Ashes can
restrict air flow through the burning wood.
4. Check the height of the chimney. A chimney that is too short will not develop sufficient draft or allow wind to
interfere with the draft. See figure 11 for correct chimney height.
5. Check the chimney for cracks or holes that might allow air to leak into the chimney. If the chimney is equipped with
an ash clean out, be sure the door is closed and fits tightly. The door may have to be temporarily sealed with tape or
furnace cement to be as air tight as required. An excellent way to check an exterior chimney for leaks is to preform
a smoke test building a small wood fire in the heater, adding a small amount of wood to the fire to make it smoke
heavily, momentarily blocking the top of the chimney, and watching for smoke to leak out of any opening or cracks.
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6. Check the entire system for obstructions that could be causing resistance to the flow of smoke and gases up the
chimney.
7. Check the size of the chimney flue liner. If the chimney flue liner’s inside dimension is smaller that 6 inches round
or 8 inches square, it will be too restrictive to the flow of smoke and gases. A chimney flue liner which has an inside
cross-sectional area of more that 85 square inches is too large, which will result in excess capacity, which means
less draft and more creosote. If the chimney flue liner is too large, it may be improved by restricting the top opening
of the flue to a 6 inch round opening, or in more extreme cases, the chimney may have to be relined with a smaller
lining and a metal prefabricated chimney may have to be replaced.
WHAT TO DO IF THE HEATER BURNS TOO RAPIDLY OR OVERHEATS
1. If the room in which the heater is located becomes uncomfortably warm on moderately cool days, it may be because
you are placing too much wood in the heater for the amount of heat required to heat your home. Although the
thermostatically controlled inlet air damper on the heater is intended to control the burning rate of the wood, a certain
amount of air must enter the heater at all times to assure the fire does not go out and the wood burns as cleanly as
possible. Thus you should adjust the amount of wood you put in the heater to the outdoor temperature. Placing
excessive wood in the heater will cause excessive creosote formation in the chimney, waste wood, and make the
room uncomfortably warm.
2. If the heater burns too rapidly or overheats, it may be because air is leaking around a loose door gasket or a fuel
feed door or ash door latching pawl and handle may need adjusting. Check thoroughly for leaks where air may be
entering the heater’s firebox.
3. If the heater burns too rapidly or overheats due to excessive draft as described earlier, you may wish to consider
purchasing a barometric damper top be installed in the heater’s chimney connector. The barometric damper should
be set to regulate a .06 draft through the heater. Check with your heater dealer.
FIGURE 11 - CHIMNEY HEIGHT REQUIREMENTS
QUICK REFERENCE TO THE MOST COMMON SOLUTIONS FOR THE MOST COMMON HEATER OPERATIONAL
PROBLEMS
1. Symptom: Fire rate does not increase with thermostat open, smoke spilling from feed door when tending fire or
backpuffing.
Check for:
a. Chimney connector pushed too far into a masonry chimney thimble restricting draft.
b. Chimney or chimney connector restricted with creosote.
c. Chimney draft reduced by air entering through:
-Unsealed chimney clean-out access.
-Loose mortar or cracked chimney wall.
-Holes in rusted chimney connector.
-Incompletely sealed chimney connector joint or thimble
d. Downdraft in too large chimney or chimney with no cover.
e. Combustion air inlet blocked with ashes.
f. Chimney too short.
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2. Symptom: Fire rate too high when thermostat closed:
Check for:
a. Feed door or ash door not securely closed.
b. Feed door or ash door gasket worn excessively.
3. Symptom: Smoke smell in living space:
Check for:
a. Items a through f of NO. 1 above.
FINAL CHECKLIST OF DO’S AND DON’TS
DO’S
1. Do read and follow the installation, operation and maintenance manual carefully.
2. Do install a smoke detector in an area that will give warning in the unlikely event that a fire develops in the area of
the heater or the heater malfunctions.
3. Do be sure that there is a fire extinguisher of the proper type and in good working order accessible in the unlikely
event that a fire develops near the heater of the heater malfunctions.
4. Do check with local building officials to be sure installation of the heater complies with all building codes and require
ments and obtain required building permits.
5. Do plan your installation with safety as your primary consideration.
6. do keep all flammable liquids, gases and pressurized containers away from heater.
7. Do complete the installation before attempting to use the heater.
8. Do use only the prescribed materials and parts for the installation of the heater.
9. Do install the heater in an area that will minimize the hazards of persons coming in contact with the hot surfaces of
the heater.
10. Do instruct all responsible persons in the proper and safe operation of the heater.
11. Do instruct all persons, especially children and elderly persons, of the hazards involved with the heater and im
proper and unauthorized tampering with the heater.
12. Do check the heater for proper adjustment and operation before leaving it unattended for long periods of time.
13. Do start a fire only with paper, kindling or solid composition fire starters specifically designed for starting a fire. The
use of liquid fire starters can cause an explosion within the heater.
14. Do use only a Listed High Temperature Type HT Factory-built Residential Type and Building Heating Appliance
Chimney or a properly constructed and maintained masonry chimney to vent this heater.
15. Do use 6-inch diameter chimney connector pipes made from a minimum of 24 gauge cold rolled steel.
16. Do place all ashes in a metal container with a tight fitting lid and place them on a noncombustible surface well away
from other combustible materials until they have completely cooled.
17. Do check the door latching mechanisms and gaskets regularly and replace parts or make adjustments as needed to
maintain the intended tightness of the fire chamber.
18. Do use a noncombustible floor covering beneath the heater as required.
19. Do observe all instructions regarding clearance between the appliance, chimney connector and combustibles.
20. Do store your fuel supply at least 36 inches from the heater.
21. Do build fires of moderate intensity in the appliance for the first three fires to allow the materials to adjust and cure
before being subjected to the intense heat of a large fire.
22. Do burn only seasoned wood in the heater.
23. Do be sure the heater is located in an area where combustible vapors are not present.
24. Do use a chimney for this heater that is not used by another appliance.
25. Do assemble the chimney connector so that moisture that accumulates within the chimney will flow back toward
the heater.
26. Do remove the ashes from the heater regularly.
27. Do set the thermostat on “HI” and allow the heater to burn for approximately 15 minutes after fresh wood is added
before reducing the thermostat setting.
28. Do protect your hands with noncombustible gloves when loading the heater, removing ashes, etc.
29. Do keep the heater doors closed except when refueling the heater or removing ashes.
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DONT’S
1.
2.
3.
Don’t dry clothing or other articles on or near the heater.
Don’t store or place flammable liquids, gases, or other pressurized containers near the heater.
Don’t use gasoline, gasoline type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or intensify
a fire. Using these and other similar materials can cause an explosion within the heater.
Don’t use an unlisted, type B, or poorly constructed or maintained chimney to vent this heater.
Don’t use galvanized pipe, steel pipe less than 24 gauge, or pipe of a diameter smaller than 6 inches as a chimney
connector.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Don’t store ashes in combustible containers, not store them near combustible materials nor dispose of them until
they have completely cooled.
Don’t use power blowers or air circulation systems with this heater that are not specifically recommended in this
manual.
Don’t neglect to inspect regularly and maintain door gaskets and latching mechanisms to assure the intended
tightness of the fire chamber.
Don’t install the heater or chimney connector at clearances less than those specified in this manual.
10. Don’t install this heater where flammable or explosive materials or vapors are likely to be present.
11. Don’t install this heater in a chimney flue that is used by another appliance.
12. Don’t neglect to clean and inspect your chimney regularly.
13. Don’t operate this heater with the doors open.
14. Don’t use the heater with missing or damaged parts.
SAFETY NOTICE
In the unlikely event that your heater “overfires” ( a condition evidence by elbows, stovepipes, and connectors glowing red
in appearance or otherwise discoloring), then your installation is subject to excessive draft created by either a chimney too
tall or too great in diameter in conjunction with its height, or some other factor of an indeterminate cause. In this event, you
should install a barometric draft regulator. Such installation will preclude any overfiring and/or any hazardous conse-
quences of potential overfiring.
Barometric Draft Regulators are generally available where you purchased your stove or may be ordered directly from United
States Stove Company at a nominal charge.
2001 Consumer Price:
$24.00 - Includes Shipping and Handling
BAROMETRIC DRAFT REGULATOR
Model DR6
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION AND REPAIR PARTS
A heater warranty is included with this owner’s manual. For warranty claims, follow the instructions provided by the
warranty.
ORDER ALL YOUR REPAIR PARTS FROM YOUR DEALER BY SUPPLYING THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
1. Part Name
2. Part Number (Not Key No.)
3. Model Number of Heater
4. Quantity of Part(s) needed
SEE FIGURE 12 FOR REPAIR PARTS
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FIGURE 12
ILLUSTRATION OF REPAIR PARTS. SEE LEDGER ON NEXT PAGE FOR
PART NAMES AND PART NUMBERS.
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SEE FIGURE 12 FOR ILLUSTRATION OF PARTS
KEY
NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
QTY.
Per Unit
EC95
PART NO.
69228B
88094
24819
69227
69226
89066
24846
24834
88057
83485
24837
24828
89930
24838
69230
25048
88057
69229
25048
40412
PART NAME
Inner Unit Assy. Ptd.
Gasket
1
1
1
1
2
13
1
1
1
4
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Collar Flue
Retainer Rear Brick Assy.
Retainer Side Brick Assy.
Brick
Rod Smoke Curtain
Curtain Smoke Ptd. Assy.
Rope Gasket for Feed Door
Door pin
Hinge for Feed Door
Shield Handle Radiation
Handle
Hinge for Ash Door
Ash Door Assy.
Latch for Ash Door
Rope Gasket for Ash Door
Feed Door Assy.
Latch
CUSTOMER NOTE: IN ADDI-
TION TO THE REPAIR PARTS,
KITS INCLUDE ANY RE-
PLACEMENT FASTENERS
WHICH WILL MOST LIKELY BE
NEEDED TO INSTALL THE
REPAIR PART.
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
Liner, Front
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
Shield Door Ptd.
Pan Ash Welded
Grate
Angle Grate Support Assy.
Leveler
Gasket Manifold
Manifold Assy. Ptd.
Plate Draft Assy. Ptd.
Clip Spring
Draft Pin
"S" Hook
Chain
Thermostat Assy.
1
1
2
2
4
1
1
1
24870
69206
40394
69205
83479
88090
24812
69207B
83818
17200
83482
86318
69223
1
1
2
2.5 Ft.
1
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
N/S
N/S
Knob
Plate Control
Panel Top Front
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
5
5
89924
851397
24865
69224GO
24851
Trim & Screen Ptd. Assy.
Brace Lt. & Rt. Top Ptd.
Shield Radiation Kit
Side left Cab. Ptd. Assy.
Top Cabinet Assy. Ptd.
Handle Cabinet Top Kit
Back Panel Assy. Ptd.
Side Right Cab. Assy. Ptd.
Door Cabinet Assy.
Handle & Latch
24824
69221TX
69202TX
89925
69203TX
69220TX
69219TX
89927,89928
24849
Rod & Nut Kit
1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt for Hinges
1/4-20 Kep Nut for Hinges
83339
83250
N/S = Not Shown
SAVE THIS MANUAL FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
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INSTRUCTION MANUAL ADDENDUM
This addendum is a supplement to the Installation, Operation, and Maintenance Instruction Manual for this appliance.
Do not neglect to read all instructions thoroughly.
ATTENTION: Installers of Fireplaces, Fireplace Stoves, Room Heaters, and Fireplace Inserts.
SUBJECT: Determining Equivalent Materials for Use as Hearth Extensions and Floor Protectors Over Combustible
Floors.
1. If you are not a qualified installer of the product, we suggest that you consult with a qualified installer or other
knowledgeable person for proper installation of the product. Your local building code official should also be consulted.
2. Refer to the section in the installation instructions on hearth extensions or floor protectors. Use the material speci
fied in the instructions.
3. If a listed floor protector is specified as an alternate material, consult a local dealer that sells floor protectors which
are listed by a recognized listing agency. If the solid fuel burning appliance requires one or two layers of 3/8 inch
thick millboard, a Listed floor protector may be purchased that is intended for use in place of the required number of
layers of millboard as specified in the instructions.
4. If an equivalent material for use as a hearth extension or floor protector is permitted in the installation instructions
and
agency, (b)
a K, C, or R factor is specified, be sure (a) that the equivalent material is Listed by a recognized listing
that the K or C factor is equal to or less than the number specified and (c) the thickness of the
material is at least
equal to 0.84 BTU-inch/
equal to the specified thickness in the installation instructions. The K factor for millboard is
(hr.) (°F) (ft2), which can be used to determine equivalency under Item 3 if necessary.
5. For reference, K, C, and R factors are given for building and insulating materials in engineering handbooks such as
the ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals and the Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers by Baumeister and
Marks.
6. K, C, and R factors are explained as follows:
A. The “K” factor represents the thermal conductivity of a material and is the time rate of heat flow through a
homogeneous material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in the
direction perpendicular to a surface. BTU
_______________
(hr)(ft2)(°F/in.)
or
(Btu)(in.)
________________________
(hr)(ft2)(°F)
B. The “C” factor represents the thermal conductance of a material at a specific thickness and is applied to a
specific homogenous material used at the stated thicknesses. (Note: The “C” factor is equal to the “K” factor
divided by the thickness of material.)
C. The “R” factor represents the thermal resistance of a material and is defined as the reciprocal of either the
“K” or “C” factor, expressed as “R per inch” (K factor reciprocal) or “R” with reference to a specific material
thickness related to a specific application (C factor reciprocal).
REFERENCES:
1. ASHRAE Handbook, 1981 Fundamentals, published by American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Condition-
ing Engineers, 1981; Chapter 23.
2. Eshbach, O. W., Handbook of Engineering Fundamentals, published by Wiley & Sons, 1936, 1952; Table 2, pp. 13-
39 to 13-43.
Note: Use of the K and C constants needs to be carefully considered since the exact number depends on the system
of units involved. The value of the constant is different under different systems of units. K is identified in some tables
as “per inch”; however, from a unit consideration, the “inch” (i.e. thickness) is actually in the numerator, not the denomi-
nator, and to determine the K factor for a specific thickness (i.e., the C factor), it is necessary to divide by the thick-
ness of the material. Other handbooks or manufacturers’ data cancel the inch of thickness in the numerator with the
square feet of area in the denominator of the K factor, resulting in a variance of 12 in the table of values or in the
manufactors’ data. An example calculation is as follows:
If the floor protector or hearth extension material is specified as one layer of 3/8 inch (0.375 inch) thick millboard with a
K factor of 0.84, the following calculations apply:
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