*
127-3 & 128-3
with VIBRATING SHUTTLE
Copyright, U. S. A., 1915, 1923, 1929, 1932, 1935
and 1940, by The Singer Manufacturing Company
All Rights Reserved for all Countries
*A Trade Mark of
THE SINGER MANUFACTURING CO.
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
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127-3 & 128-3
Main Parts
TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:
The improper placing or renewal of the TradeMark "SINGER" or any
other of the Trade Marks of The Singer Manufacturing Company (all of
which are duly Registered Trade Marks) on any machine that has been
repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside
a SINGER factory or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.
3
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127-3 & 128-3
Instructions for Operating the Machines
To release the balance wheel (D, Fig. 3), turn
the stop motion screw (E, Fig. 3) over toward
Raise the presser foot (B, Fig. 3) by means of you. It will be necessary to hold the balance
the presser bar lifter (C, Fig 3) to prevent
injury to the foot (B, Fig. 3) and feed (A, Fig.
3).
wheel while loosening the stop motion screw.
After releasing the balance wheel, place your
feet upon the treadle and with the right hand
turn the balance wheel over toward you. This
will start the band wheel, treadle and pitman,
the sewing mechanism having been discon-
nected.
Continue the motion thus begun by an alter-
nate pressure of heel and toe, until a regular
and easy movement is acquired, and the bal-
ance wheel kept in continuous rotation by use
of the feet alone.
When you are thoroughly familiar with the
treadle movement and can restart the
machine without turning the balance wheel in
the wrong direction, tighten the stop motion
screw to connect the balance wheel with the
stitching mechanism.
FIG 3. FRONT VIEW OF THE MACHINE
It is necessary to understand the stop motion
(E, Fig. 3) by which the balance wheel (D,
Fig. 3) can be released when required, thus
enabling the operator to become proficient in
the use of the treadle and permitting the
winding of bobbins without running the stitch-
ing mechanism. It also allows the operator to
wind bobbins without removing partially sewn
work and without unthreading the machine.
Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot,
let the foot down upon it, and operate the
machine in this way without being threaded,
until you have become accustomed to guiding
the material.
4
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127-3 & 128-3
To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine
To Remove the Shuttle
The balance wheel must always turn over
toward the operator.
Draw toward you the front slide in the bed of
the machine and turn the balance wheel over
toward you until the shuttle comes full under
Do not run the machine with the presser foot the opening. Press the forefinger of the right
resting on the feed without cloth under the
presser foot.
hand upon the shuttle ejector as shown in
Fig. 4, this will raise the shuttle so that it can
be easily taken out. Turn the open end of the
shuttle downward and the bobbin will drop
out.
Do not run the machine when both shuttle
and needle are threaded unless there is
material under the presser foot.
Do not try to help the machine by pulling the
fabric lest you bend the needle. The machine
feeds the work without assistance.
Both slides over the shuttle should be kept
closed when the machine is in operation.
FIG. 4. REMOVING THE SHUTTLE
5
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127-3 & 128-3
To Wind the Bobbin
Release the balance wheel (D, Fig. 3) by
turning the stop motion screw (E, Fig. 3) over
toward you.
Draw to the left the knob (A, Fig. 6, page 7)
and place the bobbin between the cups (B
and C, Fig. 6), then release the knob. Push
the bobbin winder pulley (D, Fig. 6) against
the hub of the balance wheel, and turn the
balance wheel until the thread guide (4, Fig.
6) moves to the extreme right. Put the spool
of thread on the spool pin (1, Fig. 5). Pass
the end of the thread into the thread guide (2,
Fig. 5) at the top of the face plate, then up
into the lower eyelet (3, Fig. 6) of the bobbin
winder thread guide, into the notch (4, Fig. 6).
With the thumb and forefinger of the left hand
press the bobbin lightly to the left and place
the end of the thread between the bobbin and
the cup (C, Fig. 6) at the right. Then operate
the machine the same as for sewing. When
the bobbin is filled, remove it from the bobbin
winder, pull the bobbin winder away from the
hub of the balance wheel and turn the stop
motion screw over from you to connect the
stitching mechanism.
Fig. 5. MACHINE THREADED FOR
WINDING THE BOBBIN
FIG. 6 WINDING THE BOBBIN
6
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127-3 & 128-3
To Thread the Shuttle
Hold the shuttle between the thumb and fin-
gers of the left hand as shown in Fig. 7.
Place the bobbin into the shuttle with the
thread drawing toward the right from the side
of the bobbin nearest you, as shown in Fig. 7.
Place the forefinger of the left hand on the
end of the bobbin and draw the thread down-
ward into the long slot in the shuttle as far as
it will go, as shown in Fig. 8.
Then draw the thread straight upward and
under the tension spring as shown in Fig. 9,
until the bobbin begins to unwind.
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
7
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127-3 & 128-3
To Replace the Shuttle
After threading, take the shuttle in the right
hand with the point toward you and the ten-
sion adjusting screw (1, Fig. 7, page 8)
upwards. Put the point of the shuttle into the
front end of the shuttle carrier as shown in
Fig. 10, and drop the shuttle into place, leav-
ing a loose end of thread about three inches
long above the slide. When closing the slide,
leave just enough space for the thread to
pass through.
To Set the Needle
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the needle bar (E, Fig. 5) moves up to its
highest point, loosen the thumb screw (C,
Fig. 5) in the needle clamp (B, Fig. 5) and put
the needle up into the clamp as far as it will
go, with its flat side toward the right, then
tighten the thumb screw. To select the correct
needle. ??REFERENCE??
FIG. 10. REPLACING THE SHUTTLE
8
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127-3 & 128-3
To Thread the Needle
SEE FIG. 11
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the thread take-up lever (4) is raised to its
highest point. Place the spool of thread on
the spool pin at the top of the machine, lead
the thread into the thread guide (1) at the top
of the face plate, down under and from right
to left between the tension discs (2), into the
small wire spring (3) at the left of the tension
discs, up and from front to back through the
hole in the end of the thread take-up lever
(4), down into the eyelet (5) in front of the
face plate, into the lower wire guide (6) then
from left to right through the eye of the nee-
dle (7).
Draw about two inches of thread through the
eye of the needle with which to commence
sewing.
FIG. 11. THREADING THE NEEDLE
9
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127-3 & 128-3
To Prepare for Sewing
To Commence Sewing
With the left hand hold the end of the needle
thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the
needle. Turn the balance wheel over toward
you until the needle moves down and up
again to its highest point thus catching the
bobbin thread, draw up the needle thread and
Place the material beneath the presser foot,
lower the presser foot and commence to sew,
turning the balance wheel over toward you.
Remove the Work
the bobbin thread will come up with it through Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highest
the hole in the throat plate (see Fig. 12) Lay point, raise the presser foot and draw the fab-
both threads back under the presser foot and ric back and to the left, pass the threads over
close the slides.
the thread cutter (A, Fig. 12) and pull down
lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of the
threads under the presser foot.
FIG. 12. DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD
10
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127-3 & 128-3
Tensions
To Regulate the Tensions
For ordinary stitching the needle and the bob- The tension on the needle thread should only
bin threads should be locked in the centre of
the thickness of the material, thus:
be regulated when the presser foot is down.
Having lowered the presser foot, turn the
small thumb nut (D, Fig. 5) at the front of the
tension discs over to the right to increase the
tension. To decrease the tension, turn the
thumb nut over to the left.
FIG. 13. PERFECT STITCH
If the tension on the needle thread is too
tight, or if that on the bobbin thread is too
loose, the needle thread will lie straight along
the upper surface of the material, thus:
The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated
by the small screw (1, Fig. 7) near the point
of the shuttle. To increase the tension, turn
the screw over to the right. To decrease the
tension, turn the screw over to the left.
When the tension on the bobbin thread has
been once properly adjusted, it is seldom
necessary to change it, as a correct stitch
can usually be obtained by varying the ten-
sion on the needle thread.
FIG. 14. TIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
If the tension on the bobbin thread is too
tight, or if that on the needle thread is too
loose, the bobbin thread will lie straight along
the under side of the material, thus:
FIG. 15. LOOSE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
11
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127-3 & 128-3
To Turn a Corner
To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams
Stop the machine with the needle at its low-
Use a short stitch and as light a tension as
est point. Raise the presser foot and turn the possible on the needle thread so as to leave
work as desired, using the needle as a pivot. the thread loose enough in the seam to allow
the goods to stretch if necessary.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch
A Stitch to Ravel Easily
The length of stitch is regulated by the large
thumb screw (E, Fig. 6) on the front of the
arm near the bobbin winder.
can be made if desired, by having the tension
on the needle thread so light that the bobbin
thread will not draw into the goods but lie
To lengthen the stitch, turn this screw over to straight, as shown in Fig. 15.
the right. To shorten the stitch, turn this screw
over to the left.
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
For ordinary family sewing it is seldom neces-
sary to change the pressure on the material.
If sewing fine silk or flimsy material, lighten
the pressure by turning the thumb screw (A,
FIG. 5) on the top of the machine over to the
left. To increase the pressure, turn the screw
over to the right. The pressure should be only
heavy enough to prevent the material from
rising with the needle and to enable the feed
to move the work along evenly; a heavier
pressure will make the machine run hard.
12
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127-3 & 128-3
HINTS
The Belt
Breaking of Needle Thread.
If the needle thread breaks
it may be caused by:
See that the belt is not too tight; it should
always be tight enough not to slip. If too
loose remove the hook at one end, shorten
the belt and rejoin.
Improper threading.
Tension being too tight.
Machine Working Heavily.
If the machine runs hard after standing idle
for some time use a little kerosene in the oil-
ing places, run the machine rapidly, then wipe
clean and oil.
The thread being too coarse
for size of needle.
The needle being bent, having a
blunt point, or being set incorrectly.
Breaking of Bobbin Thread.
If the bobbin thread breaks it may caused by:
Improper threading of the shuttle.
Tension being too tight.
To Avoid Breaking Needles.
See that the presser foot or attachments are
securely fastened by the thumb screw, Do not
sew heavy seams or very thick goods with
too fine a needle. A large needle and thread
Skipping of Stitches.
to correspond should be used on heavy work The needle may not be accurately set into the
???REFERENCE???.
needle bar or the needle may be blunt or
bent. The needle may be too small for the
thread in use.
See that the needle is not bent and avoid
pulling the material when stitching.
13
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127-3 & 128-3
To Oil the Machine
To ensure easy running, the machine requires
oiling and if used continuously it should be
oiled each day. With moderate use all occa-
sional oiling is sufficient. Oil should he
applied at each of the places shown by
arrows in Figs. 16 and 17. One drop of oil at
each point is sufficient. Oil holes are provided
in the machine for bearings which cannot be
directly reached.
To oil the mechanism under the slide, draw
the front slide (see Fig. 16) toward you and
after removing the lint and dust which may
have accumulated, put a few drops of oil on
the wick which is retained in the hole in the
bed of the machine. The slide should then be
closed.
FIG. 16. OILING POINTS
AT THE FRONT OF THE MACHINE
On the front of the machine at the left is a
small plate or cover (see Fig. 16) fastened by
a screw; loosen the screw, turn the plate
upward and fasten by tightening the screw;
turn the balance wheel slowly and oil the
movable parts inside, then turn the cover
down and fasten it as before.
14
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127-3 & 128-3
To Oil the Machine continued...
On the back of the arm is a round plate or
cover, fastened by a thumb screw. Loosen
the screw, turn the plate upward and fasten
by tightening the screw; turn the balance
wheel slowly and oil the moving parts inside,
then turn the cover down and fasten it as
before.
To reach the parts underneath the bed, the
kilt must be thrown off the band wheel on the
machine stand. Or this purpose a belt shifter
is placed at the front of tile band wheel. By
pressing the belt shifter lever to the left and
working the treadle meanwhile, the belt is
released and the machine can then be turned
back on its hinges. The places to be oiled
are indicated in Fig. 17, by arrows pointing to
the oil holes and bearings.
FIG. 17. OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MACHINE
To oil the stand, put a drop of oil the centres
on which the band wheel and treadle work,
and both ends of the pitman rod, which con-
15
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127-3 & 128-3
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE ATTACHMENTS
FOOT HEMMER -- Hemming
FOOT HEMMER
Hemming and Sewing on Lace
Raise the needle to its highest point. Remove
the presser foot and attach the foot hemmer
in its place (see Fig. 18). Clip off the right
hand corner of the cloth, so that it will take
the roll easily, turn up the edge about a quar-
ter of an inch, insert it in the mouth of the
hemmer and draw or push it along until under
the needle. Then let down the presser bar
and after taking two or three stitches, draw
gently on the ends of the threads to help the
work along till the feed catches it. In order to
produce a smooth even hem, the mouth of
the hemmer must be kept just full.
Start the hem as previously explained, and
when it is well started, raise the needle to its
highest point.
Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure on
the hem, pass the end of the lace through the
slot in the side of the hemmer, under the
back of the hemmer and over the hem, as
shown in Fig 19.
Take care that the hem is not displaced in the
hemmer and that the needle goes down
through the lace and hem together. Then let
down the presser bar and guide tile lace over
the front of the hemmer, keeping it well into
the slot.
Fig. 18 shows also what is known as a bag
seam or fell, made by passing two pieces of
fabric through the hemmer together and hem-
ming them down.
FIG. 18
FIG. 19
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127-3 & 128-3
FOOT HEMMER -- Felling
The two pieces of cloth to be felled should be
laid one over the other, right sides together,
the edge of the under piece being a little far-
ther to the right than the upper piece. Stitch
them together, using the hemmer as a press-
er foot, the front end of the hemmer forming a
guide for the edges of both pieces, the upper
piece being guided by the inside and the
under piece by the outside of the projecting
front of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 20). Then
open the work out flat, wrong side up, the
edges standing up straight, and taking the
edges near the beginning of the seam in the
right hand, and the ends of the threads in the
left hand draw the edges into the hemmer
which will turn them as in hemming. Guide
the second row of stitching by following the
first row with the inside of the projecting front
of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 21).
FIG. 20.
FIG. 21.
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127-3 & 128-3
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER -- Hemming
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER -- Wide Hemming
Remove the presser foot and attach the
adjustable hemmer in its place as shown in
Fig. 22. This hemmer will turn hems from
To make a hem more than 15/16 inch wide,
loosen the thumb screw in the hemmer and
move the scale to the right as far as it will go,
3/16 inch to 15/16 in. wide The adjustment is then swing it toward you as shown in Fig. 23,
made by loosening the thumb screw on the
hemmer and moving the scale to the right or
left until the hem turned is of the desired
and tighten the thumb screw. Fold and crease
down a hem of the desired width; pass the
fold under the extension at the right of the
width. Place the cloth under the hemmer and hemmer, and the edge into the folder as
draw the edge toward the left under the shown in Fig. 23, and proceed to stitch the
scale, as shown in Fig. 22. Draw the edge of hem.
the cloth back and forth until the hem is
formed, stopping with the end under the nee-
dle. Lower the presser bar and commence to
sew, being careful to so guide cloth as to
keep hemmer full.
FIG. 23.
FIG. 22.
18
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127-3 & 128-3
BINDER -- Binding
Remove the presser foot and attach the
binder in its place. Pass the binding through
the scroll of the binder and draw it back
under the needle. Place the edge of the
goods to be bound between the scrolls of the
binder and draw it under the needle. Lower
the presser bar and sew as usual. To make
French folds proceed as directed for binding
except that the fold is stitched on to the face
of the material instead of on the edge (see
Fig. 24). After loosening the binder set screw
and adjusting the binder the line of stitching
can he brought, nearer the centre, this being
more effective when making French folds.
FIG. 24.
19
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127-3 & 128-3
TUCKER
Having adjusted the scales for tuck and
space as desired, fold the material and
Remove the presser foot and attach the tuck- crease by hand; pass the folded edge
er in its place. The width of the tuck is deter-
mined by the scale of figures nearest the
needle, which shows in eighths and six-
between the spring and spur near you, then
between the two blades of the second scale,
and back under the presser foot; draw to tile
teenths of an inch the distance of the edge of right against the guide, lower the presser bar;
the fold from the line of stitching.
see that the lever for the needle clamp to
strike is in its backward position so as to form
a crease for the next tuck, then proceed with
The crease or mark for the second and fol-
lowing tucks is determined by the scale near- the first tuck.
est the operator and this is set by the line in
front of the needle hole in the presser foot.
For blind tucks without spaces, adjust the
scale nearest the operator so that the figure
opposite the line on the presser foot will be
the same as that at which the guide is locat-
ed on the scale nearest the needle. To make
spaces between the tucks, move the front
scale farther to the left until the desired space
is obtained.
For the second tuck, fold carefully at the
crease made by the spur and place the edge
of the first tuck underneath and against the
spur at the left. The spur will serve as a
guide and will also make a distinct crease for
the next tuck. Always place the last tuck
against the spur to ensure perfect work.
When making the last tuck, the lever
upon which the needle clamp strikes while
tucking should be raised to its highest point;
while the lever is in this position no crease for
a succeeding tuck is made upon the goods.
FIG. 25.
20
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127-3 & 128-3
The names and uses of the
principal parts of the ruffler are as fol-
lows:
(SEE: REFERENCES IN Fig. 26)
A -- FOOT -- the part by which the ruffler is
attached to the presser bar.
B -- FORK ARM-- the section that must be
placed astride the needle clamp.
C -- ADJUSTING SCREW -- the screw that
regulates the fullness of the gather.
D -- PROJECTION -- the part that projects
through tile the slots in the adjusting
lever
FIG. 26. THE RUFFLER AND ITS PARTS
Ruffler
E-- ADJUSTING LEVER -- the lever that sets
the ruffler for gathering or for making a
plait once at every six stitches or once
at every twelve stitches, as desired: also
for disengaging the ruffler, when either
plaiting or gathering is not desired.
Lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and .5 shown in Fig. 26 indi-
cate where the material is to be placed for
various operations, as follows:
Line 1 -- the correct position for the material
to which the ruffled material is
applied.
Line 2 -- material to be ruffled.
Line 3 -- the facing for the ruffle.
Line 4 -- the strip of piping material.
Line 5--the edge to be piped.
F -- ADJUSTING FINGER -- the part which
regulates the width or size of the plaits.
continued on next page...
Refer to Fig. 26 when inserting the material in
the ruffler.
21
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127-3 & 128-3
Ruffler -- Principal Parts continued...
To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering
H -- RUFFLING BLADE--the upper blue steel The adjusting finger (F, Fig. 27) is not intend-
blade with the teeth at the end to push ed for gathering and should be moved for-
the material in plaits up to the needle.
ward or away from the needle, as shown in
Fig. 27.
J -- SEPARATOR BLADE--the lower blue
steel blade without teeth, which pre-
vents the teeth of the ruffling blade
Raise the adjusting lever (E, Fig. 27) and
move it to the left so that the projection (D,
coming into contact with the feed of the Fig. 27) will enter the slot marked "1" in the
machine, or the material to which ruf-
fling or plaiting is to be applied.
adjusting lever (E) when the lever is released.
The ruffling blade will then move forward and
back once at every stitch. Insert the material
to be ruffled between the two blue blades, fol-
lowing the line 2 in Fig. 26. Draw the material
slightly back of the needle, lower the presser
bar and commence to sew.
To Attach the Ruffler to the Machine
Raise tile needle bar to its highest point and
remove the presser foot. Attach the ruffler
foot, (A, Fig. 26)) to the presser bar by
means of the thumb screw, at the same time
placing the fork arm (B, Fig. 26) astride the
needle clamp as shown in Fig. 27.
To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of
the ruffling blade by turning the adjusting
screw (C, Fig. 27) upwardly, also shorten the
stitch. To make full gathering, lengthen the
stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the
adjusting screw (C) downwardly, also length-
en the stitch. By varying these adjustments,
many pleasing varieties of work can be
accomplished.
FIG. 27.
22
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127-3 & 128-3
To Make a Ruffle and
To Ruffle and Sew on
Sew it to a Garment in One Operation
a Facing in One Operation
Insert the material to be ruffled between the
two blue blades, as shown in Fig. 28, follow-
Insert the material to be ruffled between the
two blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig,
ing the line 2, in Fig. 26. Place the garment to 26.. Place the garment to which the ruffle is
which the ruffle is to be attached, under the
separator blade, following the line 1, in Fig.
26. Proceed the same as for gathering.
to be attached, under the separator blade,
following the line 1, in Fig. 26. Place the
material for the facing over the upper blue
blade, as shown in Fig. 29, following the line
3, in Fig. 26. The facing may be straight or
bias material. If the facing is to be on the right
side of the garment, place the garment and
the ruffle so that the wrong sides are togeth-
er. If the facing is to be on the wrong side,
place the right sides of the garment and the
The edge of the ruffled seam can be bound
by using the builder.
FIG. 28.
FIG. 29.
23
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127-3 & 128-3
Piping a Ruffle
To Adjust the Ruffler for Plaiting
Insert the material to be ruffled between the
two blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig.
Raise the adjusting lever (E, Fig. 31) and
move it to the right so that the projection (D,
26. This material must not be over 1 1/4 inch- Fig. 31) will enter the slot marked "6" in the
es wide, as it is carried through the ruffler adjusting lever when the lever is released.
with the finished edge of the ruffle to the right The ruffling blade will then move forward and
of the attachment as shown In Fig. 30
back once at every six stitches. To adjust the
ruffling blade to make a plait once at every
twelve stitches, place the adjusting lever (E,
Fig. 31) so that the projection (D) enters the
slot marked "12" in the adjusting lever. Insert
the material to be plaited between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, (Fig. 26).
The material for piping must measure about
1/4 inch wide when folded in the centre and
is usually cut on the bias. Place the piping
material in the ruffler, following the line 4, in
Fig. 26, with the folded edge of the piping to
the right. The material to which the piping and The size or width of plaits is regulated by the
ruffling are to be sewn should be folded on
the edge and inserted in the ruffler, following
the line 5, in Fig. 26.
adjusting screw (C, Fig. 31) and the adjusting
finger (F, Fig. 31). To make a wider plait,
move the adjusting finger (F) back or toward
the needle and turn the adjusting screw (C)
downwardly. To make a smaller plait, turn the
adjusting screw (C) upwardly. The distance
between plaits is regulated by the length of
stitch.
FIG. 30.
FIG. 31.
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127-3 & 128-3
To Adjust the Ruffler for
To Oil the Ruffler
Group Plaiting and Gathering
Occasionally apply a drop of oil to the work-
ing parts of the ruffler at each of the places
indicated by arrows in Fig. 32. After oiling,
operate the ruffler on a waste piece of materi-
The ruffler can be adjusted for group plaiting
by lifting the adjusting lever (E Fig. 32) and
moving it to the right so that the top of the
projection (D, Fig. 32) engages the small slot al to prevent the oil soiling the work. If the ruf-
indicated by the star on the adjusting lever.
This should be done at the points where you
wish to make the space between the plaits.
The ruffler will then stop and plain stitching
will be made. When the desired space has
been made, adjust the lever (E) so that the
projection (D) enters either the slot marked
"6" or the slot marked "12." By alternately
making groups of plaits and plain spaces, as
shown in Fig. 32, very attractive work can be
produced.
fler does not plait evenly, a drop of oil may
remedy the trouble.
SINGER Needles should be used
in SINGER Machines.
These Needles and their Containers
are marked with the Company's Trade Mark
"SIMANCO"*
Needles in Containers marked
"FOR SINGER MACHINES”
are NOT SINGER made Needles.
FIG. 32.
25
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127-3 & 128-3
RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD
(Class and Variety of Needles Used, 15x1)
SIZES OF COTTON,
CLASSES OF WORK
SILK OR LINEN
THREAD
SIZES OF
NEEDLES
9
Georgette, chiffon, net, light weight synthetic,
fabrics, fine dimity, lawn, batiste, and other feath-
erweight or sheer fabrics. For infants' clothes
and for dainty lingerie; also fine lace and all deli-
cate or gossamer fabrics.
100 to 150 Cotton
OO & OOO Silk Twist
11
14
16
18
19
80 to 100 Cotton
O Silk Twist
56-3 Nylon
All medium, light weight summertime fabrics.. For
children's clothes, dainty washable dresses and
aprons, glass curtains.
60 to 80 Cotton
C Silk Twist
Light weight woolens, firm dress silks and cot-
tons, draperies and
fabric furnishings.. For smocks and men's fine
shirts. For general household for fine quilting.
30 to 40 Cotton
D Silk Twist
24 to 30 Cotton
E Silk Twist
60 to 80 Linen
Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, damasks and
quilts. For stitching aprons and men's work
shirts.
Heavy weaves of coating, canvas, bed ticking,
awnings, porch furniture covers, boys' duck suits,
work or sports uniforms.
Suiting, ticking, sacking, tarpaulin, duck, drilling.
For wash uniforms and bedding supplies for hos-
pitals and hotels.
When sending orders for needles be sure to specify thread size required.
26
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