New Buck Corporation Fan 91 User Manual

Model 91 Bay Heater

Fireplace Insert & Freestanding

FEATURES

PREPARATION

INSTALLATION

OPERATION MAINTENANCE SAFETY

Contact your insurance company for coverage and installation inspection

SAFETY NOTICE

If this heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation

directions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection

requirements in your area.

This product is listed by Warnock-Hersey International, Inc. to the UL Standard No. 1482.

Manufactured by New Buck Corporation - Spruce Pine, NC 28777 - Revised 5/2001

PN-PI-9100660

Tested by ITS

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SECTION I

The New Buck Corporation room heater Model 91 Bay is one of the safest and most efficient heating systems

available when installed and operated as specified in these instructions and as stipulated on the operation and

installation labels affixed to the unit. The unit is designed to burn wood fuel only.

Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions

may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.

Throughout the manual, you will see this symbol.

Please make a special note of these areas.

This indicates areas of importance regarding safety.

Install and use only in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation and operating instructions. Do not connect

this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance. This unit is not designed for installation into Mobile Home.

This unit has been safety tested by ITS (Warnock-Hersey) to UL Standards 737 and 1482.

ROOM HEATER FEATURES

Before attempting to install or operate your heater, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the features and

operating controls of the unit.

OPERATING CONTROLS

WARNING: Model 91 Bay Heater was not designed for fire grates.

1. Bypass Damper: The bypass damper control is located in the top center of the heater front just under the top.

It is operated by pushing or pulling the rod. The damper is fully open when the handle is pulled out and fully

closed when it is pushed in. The damper must by OPEN before the door is opened.

2. Blower Control: The blower control (Rheostat) is located on the side of the unit. The rheostat is used to

vary the speed of the blower. It can be set at any position. It must be turned on to activate the automatic

thermostat on the stove.

3. Primary Air Controls: The primary air intake draft controls are located at the left and right bottom side of

the hearth. They are operated by moving the handle out to open (to allow air into the firebox) or in (to

control or close off) the air into the firebox. Right side primary air and air wash control (3A). Left side, (3),

also called shot gun air control, allows air to the center of the firebox of the stove.

4. Warm Air Outlets: Provides heat extraction from the top of the firebox.

5. Baffles: Directs air flow around the unit for maximum heat transfer.

6. Air Inlet: Allows cool air near the floor to be circulated through the blower and back into the warm air

chamber of the heater.

7. Door: Provides an “airtight” feature. The door allows a much higher burning efficiency than can be

obtained with an open firebox.

8. Hearth Extension: Offers protection from spilled ashes and cinders.

9. Power Cord: Provides electrical power to operate the blower.

10. Catalyst: Enables the unit to burn cleanly and efficiently.

11. Catalyst Probe: Probe is located to the right of the bypass damper rod. It is used to determine (catalyst)

temperature.

12. Automatic/Off/Manual Switch: Located at the bottom right corner of stove. In the “Manual” position, the

blower operates continuously. In the “Automatic” position, the blower is controlled by the internal

thermostat which reacts to the temperature of the air between the stove walls. (Not the same as the

temperature showing on the Catalyst Probe.)

SAFETY STANDARD COMPLIANCE

The Model 91 Bay catalytic solid fuel (wood) burning combination room heater/fireplace stove manufactured by

New Buck Corporation complies with US 1482-1994 and UL 737-1995 for residential freestanding and masonry

fireplace insert installations when constructed and installed in accordance with ITS approved documentation.

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EPA COMPLIANCE STATUS

This manual describes the installation and operation of the New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay wood heater.

These heaters meet the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Emission limits for wood heaters sold after July

1, 1992. Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from

approximately 10,000 to 54,500 BTU/hr for the Model 91 Bay.

MODEL 91 WOOD STOVE IDENTIFICATION

37 & 38

20. Door Gasket

21. Side Glass

22. Leveling Screws

23. Firebrick

24. Motor

25. Motor Mount Bracket

26. Cover Door

27. Cover Door Screws

28. Shot Gun Air Box

29. Ash Pan

1. Bypass Damper & Brass Spring Handle

2. Blower Control (Rheostat)

3. Primary Air Control Air Wash Rod for Both

Sides

3a. Shot Gun Air Control

4. Warm Air Outlets

5. Baffles (Interior of Stove)

6. Air Inlet

7. Door

8. Hearth Extension

9. Power Cord

10. Catalyst (Interior Firebox)

11. Catalyst Probe

12. Automatic / Off / Manual Switch

13. Brass Cap

30. Disc Thermostat

31. Door Handle & Brass Spring Handle

32. Air Wash Screen

33. Glass Gasket

34. Cover Door Hinge

35. Magnet Holder

36. Cover Door Magnet

37. Door Latch

38. Door Latch Screw

39. Lower Heat Shield

40. Hinge Pins

14. Hinge Block

15. Brass Overlays

16. Brass Overlay Mounting Screws

17. Door Glass & Logo

18. Glass Clips

19. Hearth Brass

41. 8" Flue Exit

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CATALYST EQUIPPED

This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper

operation. It is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in

this manual or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.

CATALYST WARRANTY

The combustor supplied with this heater is a set of (3) (2"x3-1/2"x6"x25" cells). Consult the catalytic combustor

warranty also supplied with this heater. All warranty claims should be addressed to:

Applied Ceramics

Customer Service Department

P.O. Box 29664

Atlanta, GA 30359

770-448-6888

See enclosed catalyst warranty for instructions. New Buck Corporation does not handle catalyst replacements.

Customer can order direct form Applied Ceramics.

PROPER FUEL SELECTION

For best results, this heater is designed to burn (dry), natural wood. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions

generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut

hardwoods. Green or freshly cut hardwoods (wood with high moisture content) will not product the BTU’s

needed to heat your home. The result will be low temperature reading on the catalyst probe, thus low BTU

output.

DO NOT BURN:

1) Treated Wood

2) Coal

3) Garbage

4) Cardboard

5) Solvents

6) Colored Paper

7) Trash

Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in release of toxic fumes and may

poison or render the catalytic combustor ineffective.

Burning coal, cardboard, or loose paper can produce soot, or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat the

combustor, causing smoke spillage into the room and rendering the combustor ineffective. (Not covered under

warranty.)

ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF

The temperature in the stove and the gases entering the combustor must be raised to between 700^oF to 900^oF for

catalytic activity to be initiated. The temperature can be determined by the Catalyst Monitor Probe. During the

start up of a cold stove a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. This can be

achieved by starting the fire with dry kindling, paper, and small split wood. Have the Bypass Damper fully open

(pulled out). This ensures that the stove, catalyst, and fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures.

Even though it is possible (and likely) to have gas temperatures reach 600^oF within two to three minutes after a

fire is started, if the fire is allowed to die down immediately it may go out or the combustor may stop working.

Once the combustor starts working, heat generated in it by burning the smoke will keep it working.

ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF WHEN REFUELING

During the refueling and rekindling of a cool fire, or a fire that has burned down to the charcoal phase, operate the

stove at a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure that the catalyst reaches approximately 800^o

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CATALYST MONITORING

It is important to periodically monitor the operation of the catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning

properly, and to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of

heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions.

See Troubleshooting section for detailed

instructions BEFORE attempting to remove catalyst.

This catalytic heater is equipped with the means to monitor catalyst operation. Properly functioning combustors

typically maintain temperatures in excess of 1000^oF. If catalyst temperatures are not in excess of 500^orefer to

Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual.

CAUTION AGAINST OVER-FIRING

Do Not Over-fire This Heater.

Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage to

the heater and to the catalytic combustor.

ASH REMOVAL

Whenever ashes build up in the firebox and when the fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes.

Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed. To

remove ashes the dump is located at the left inner bottom. By lifting the dump door, place the ashes through the

dump opening. The ashes fall directly into the ash pan. The ash pan is located at the left side under the hearth

behind the cover door.

NOTE: Be sure to turn the room air blower off before removing ashes. Open cover door and slide ash pan out.

NOTE: Fueling and ash removal door (s) must remain closed when in operation.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be

placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal.

The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

NOTE: Be sure to turn room air blower back on when job is completed.

NOTE: The room heater is not to be connected to any air distribution duct.

CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapor, which combined with expelled moisture

forms creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a

result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

NOTE: SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.

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SECTION II

MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION OPTIONS

This unit (appliance) may be installed into an all masonry fireplace, built in accordance with the Uniform Building Code

and the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 211).

NOTE: Check with local building officials for any permits required for installation of this stove and notify your insurance

company before proceeding with installation.

A. At a minimum, a starter pipe reaching from the stove flue exit to the base of the existing code approved masonry

chimney (flue-liner) and an airtight face seal.

B. Direct connection: In accordance with NFPA-211-9-4.5, Connection to Masonry Fireplaces. A solid fuel-burning

appliance such as a stove or insert shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue where the following conditions

are met:

Exception: Listed fireplace accessories shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue.

1) There is a connector that extends from the appliance to the flue liner.

2) The cross-sectional area of the flue is no more than three times the cross-sectional area of the flue collar of the appli-

ance.

3) If the appliance vents directly through the chimney wall above the smoke chamber, there shall be a noncombustible

seal below the entry point of the connector.

4) The installation shall be such that the chimney system can be inspected and cleaned.

5) Means shall be provided to prevent dilution of combustible products in the chimney flue with air from the habitable

space.

C. It may be necessary to positive connect this unit to enhance the performance, if any of the following conditions ex-

ists:

1) Poor Drawing Flue

2) Oversized Flue (17” x 7)

3) Double Flues

4) Ash Dump

5) Stone Front Fireplace/ or damaged flue liner

6) Chimney that does not exceed 12’

Check with your dealer if any of the above conditions exist, before installing your stove. Proper installation is critical to

the performance of the Model 91.

Use Fireplace Kit PA FP91 for installation. An optional oversized fireplace kit is available for larger fireplaces. Check

with dealer.

SAFETY NOTICE

If this appliance is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation directions.

Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.

OPTION (A)

AIRTIGHT INSU-

LATED CLEAN-

STARTER PIPE

OUT

SEAL TRIM PANELS WITH INSULA-

TION / AND OR HIGH TEMPERATURE

CAULK

REMOVE

DAMPER

OR WIRE

IT OPEN

NOTE: New Buck Corporation grants no

warranty, implied or stated, for the installation

or maintenance of your appliance, and assumes

no responsibility of any consequential damage

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OPTION (B)

OPTION (C)

CAP(PREVENTS

WATER FROM

ENTERING)

NOTE: Follow installation

instruction with Positive

Connection Kit.

(Kit sold separately)

NOTE: Follow installation instruction

with Direct Connection Kit.

(Kit sold separately)

FLUE

LINER

INSTALL A NON-COMBUSTIBLE

COVER PLATE TO PREVENT

WATER FROM ENTERING THE

CHIMNEY

THE LINER MUST

BE STAINLESS

STEEL CONNEC-

TOR OR FLEXIBLE

VENT. FOLLOW

THE LINER MANU-

FACTURE’S IN-

STRUCTIONS FOR

INSTALLATION

AND SUPPORT.

STAINLESS

STEEL

CHIMNEY

CONNEC-

TOR MUST

EXTEND 1’

PAST THE

BLOCK-OFF

PLATE OR

TO THE

SEAL TRIM PANELS

WITH INSULATION /

AND OR HIGH TEM-

PERATURE CAULK

AIRTIGHT

INSULATED

CLEAN-OUT

FLUE LINER

AIRTIGHT

INSULATED

CLEAN-OUT

TRIM PANELS

REMOVE

DAMPER

OR WIRE IT

OPEN

REMOVE

DAMPER

OR WIRE

IT OPEN

BLOCK-OFF PLATE

OR DAMPER

ADAPTER

INSTALLATION (Fireplace Insert)

Minimum Clearances to Combustible Materials (in inches)

MANTEL

30"

20"

15"

20"

24"

HEARTH EXTENSION

FIGURE 1

FIREPLACE INSERT

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MINIMUM CLEARANCES:

The Model 91 Bay Fireplace Insert is intended for installation in accordance with the standard for chimneys, fireplaces,

vents, and solid-fuel burning appliances. NFPA-211 Code: NOTE-This model is not intended for installation into Zero

Clearance or pre-fabricated fireplace.

1. The hearth must be of masonry construction and must extend a minimum of 24" in front of the firebox opening and a

minimum of 8" to either side of the firebox opening.

2. Floor protector must be 3/8" minimum thickness non-combustible material or equivalent.

3. If your fireplace has wood trim above it, the wood trim musts be at least 20" above the top of the unit and may be a

maximum of 1/2" thick.

4. If your fireplace has a wood mantel, the mantel or mantel supports must be located at a height of 30" above the top

REQUIRED FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS

Minimum fireplace dimensions:

Height

Min.

Width

Min.

Depth

Min.

Model 91 Bay

23 1/2"

31 3/4"

15 1/2"

POSSIBLE TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION

If you decide to install your own stove, there are several hand tools you may need to do the job. If you do not already have

them, they are readily available at most hardware stores.

Caulking gun

Large adjustable wrench (may not be needed)

Drop cloths or newspapers

Vacuum cleaner or whisk broom

Flashlight

1 tube of RTV silicone, Code 103 or 106, or high temperature rubber cement rated between 450^oF- 600^oF.

7/32" drill bit and drill

Socket/Rachet Set

Insulation (Provided in Trim Kit package)

INSTALLATION PREPARATION

Fireplace:

1. Locate furniture and other materials away from the front of the fireplace to allow free access to the fireplace.

2. Cover the hearth and adjacent floor areas with the drop cloths to protect from soiling or marring the surface.

3. Remove the existing fireplace damper plate.

4. Thoroughly clean the fireplace of ashes and soot.

5. Have your existing chimney inspected before inserting this unit. Some chimneys must be relined or replaced before

they are safe to use.

6. Check the chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildups of creosote or soot. Also, check for obstructions, such

as bird’s nests. If the chimney is excessively dirty, clean it, or have someone clean it professionally BEFORE install-

ing or using the room heater.

7. If the fireplace has an ash dump or outside air provision, these must be sealed off with metal or tightly packed non-

combustible insulation to prevent cold air from entering the fireplace chamber.

Heater:

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Check the primary air draft controls to ensure that they slide freely.

3. Check the operation of the damper control to ensure it will open and close properly.

4. Check the Manual/Automatic Switch to ensure that motor is working. *Place switch in the “MANUAL” position. (Plug

in stove.) You cannot check the motor in the “AUTOMATIC” position, unless a heat gun is used to heat the internal ther-

mostat.

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POSITIONING THE HEATER

When positioning the heater, the following conditions MUST be met! (See Figure 2.)

1. The front of the damper opening must be positioned BEHIND the rear edge of the lintel to ensure proper

draft. (See Figure 2.)

2. The vertical plane of the fireplace front must fall BEHIND the side panels of the unit. (In other words, it is

possible to have the heater too far in as well as not far enough.)

3. Center the heater in the fireplace opening.

CENTER

LINE

VERTICAL PLANE

DAMPER

OPENING

LINTEL EDGE

FIGURE 3 MOUNTING TRIM PANELS

FIGURE 2

POSITIONING

MOUNTING THE TRIM PANELS

After the unit is positioned, mark the mounting position of the trim panels as follows:

1. Set the side trim panels in place, flat against the face of the fireplace. Mark down the inside edge of the

trim panel to make a vertical reference line. (See Figure 3.)

2. Set the top (long) trim panel in place on top of the unit. The panel should be flat against the outside face

of the fireplace, and standing vertically. Mark along the lower edge of the trim panel with a pencil to make

a reference line for mounting.

3. Slide the unit out of the fireplace far enough to work behind the trim panel reference lines.

4. Mount the side trim panels. (See Figure 3.)

a. Position the trim panel on the reference line.

b. Drill mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets to allow for adjustment in

and out if necessary.

c. Mount the trim panel using the self-tapping screws provided.

5. Place top panel back on reference mark. Take top trim panel mounting bracket supplied with unit. Position

bracket so it overlaps rear lip of top trim panel. Drill mounting holes in top of stove using holes in bracket as

guide. Tighten down screws.

6. Now, follow the installation procedures in the listed direct connect or positive connect kit you are using and

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7. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels are properly positioned and lie flat

against the front of the fireplace. If one or more of the panels is out of position, slide the unit out and reset by

loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot.

8. Reinstall the top trim panel by sliding the rear lip of the top trim panel underneath the front lip of the

mounting bracket already secured to top of unit.

NOTE: Mount the top trim panel so that it sits in front of the top of the side trim panels..

9. Obtain the brass trim kit provided with unit and slip over the top and sides of trim panels. (Top ends of brass

may need to be trimmed to fit.)

10. Insure that the starter pipe or connector is properly secure in the stove flue exit, and aligned with the chimney

flue.

11. Mount top trim panel by drilling mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets, with top end side

of top panel overlapping side panel.

12. Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1" on each

side and top. (See Figure 3.)

13. Next using high heat silicone or furnace cement run heavy bead of caulking around where panels meet the

stove. (See Figure 3.)

14. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels (and brass) are properly

positioned and lie flat against the front of the fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide the unit out and

reset by loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot. With bar lift stove up in front. Place

insulation across front and the surface of hearth or bottom of fireplace to make complete seal.

15. To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around the entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If

flame leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.

FINAL CHECK

1. Recheck the specified clearances.

2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.

3. Open the primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass, make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.

4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

5. Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light paper and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws

properly through the primary drafts.

6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.

7. Open the door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates

a defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting

newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats us, a

proper draft can usually by obtained.

NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but

with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.

If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not solve your problem,

contact your dealer for assistance. If the homeowner installed the unit himself, there generally is a charge for

dealer to service the stove and inspect the installation.

8. The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three

firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR THE

HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)

You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is

normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a

window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape.

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SECTION III

RESIDENTIAL FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION PRECAUTION

Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as freestanding stoves when

vented into a masonry chimney that include the following:

1. A rain cap is installed on the chimney.

2. Height of chimney is at least 15 feet high.

3. Location of chimney is interior. (Not on an outside wall)

Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than listed above. However, draft problems are

possible if a hot chimney is not maintained.

Use Leg Kit # FA FS2191 for Model 91

CAUTION: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

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MODEL 91 BAY

MINIMUM CLEARANCES

The New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay must be installed in compliance with the instructions contained in

this manual.

Clearance from combustible walls and ceilings. (Using single wall chimney connector)

The minimum lateral distance between any part of the room heater and combustible walls is shown in Figures 1

and 2.

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 1

FLOOR PROTECTION

If a freestanding model is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to

protect the floor from burning material from the stove. The pad must be 50 inches wide. NOTE: The floor must

extend 16" from door opening in front of the stove, 8" from the door opening on each side, and should be under

the chimney connector. Floor protector must by 3/8" in minimum thickness, non-combustible material or

equivalent.

The unit must be positioned on the pad so that there is a minimum of 16" from the front of the door opening to the

front of the pad, and a minimum of 8" measured horizontally from the sides of the fuel loading and ash removal

openings to the sides of the pad.

NOTE: For clearance reductions using wall protectors, refer to the NFPA-211 Code.

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

Drop Cloth

Electric Drill with 7/32" drill bit

1/2" - 9/16" combination wrench

3/8" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 3/8" wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench

Socket Set

Tape Measure

Pencil

Level

Screw Driver

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PREPARING THE STOVE FOR INSTALLATION

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly. You cannot check the motor when the switch is in the “Off” or “Automatic”

position, unless a heat gun is used to heat the internal thermostat.

3. Check the primary air draft controls to ensure that they operate freely.

4. Check the operation of the bypass damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.

5. To attach legs, remove any items within firebox. Spread drop cloth on the floor behind the heater. Tilt the

heater so that back is on the drop cloth. Attach legs to pre-drilled holes in bottom of heater. If using optional

pedestal, mounting holes will need to be drilled.

6. Reposition the heater to the upright position.

CHIMNEY

Ceiling Exits:

The Model 91 Bay is designed for connection to: 1)

Simpson Dura-Vent, 2) Security, 3) Selkirk Metal

Bestos, 4) Metal Fab, 5) Air Jet, listed as 2100^opipe and

CEILING

SUPPORT BOX

parts.

“Follow chimney and chimney connector manufacturers

instructions and local building codes for installation

through combustible walls or ceilings.” This heater can

only be installed freestanding by using one of the

following requirements: 1) must use a brand of chimney

pipe, as listed above, complying to the requirements for

Type HT chimneys in the standard code for chimneys,

Factory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating

Appliance, UL 103 or 2) a code approved masonry

chimney with a flue liner.

SINGLE WALL

PIPE

OPTIONAL NBC

CAST CHIMNEY

CONNECTOR

CAUTION: Certain installation types require the use of

certain chimney types. Please follow these instructions

exactly.

DETERMINING THE CHIMNEY

LOCATION

A. Ceiling Exit (Using Single Wall Pipe and UL 103

HT type chimney system listed with manufactur-

er in this section of manual)

1. Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above

the unit so that the weight is hanging in the

center of the flue exit. (A small weight on a

FIGURE 3

string will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the ceiling where the string is suspended to locate the center of

the chimney.

2. After locating the center of the hole, install the ceiling support box, chimney, flashing, and rain cap per

the chimney manufacturer’s instructions.

3. Connect the stove to the ceiling support box by using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel chimney

pipe. (DO NOT use galvanized pipe.) Each section should fit into the section below or into the opening

on the stove, for drip-free operation. Secure each section together by using at least three (3) sheet metal

screws or rivets.

4. You may secure chimney pipe to stove two (2) different ways.

a. With Optional NBC Cast Chimney Connector, See Figure 3.

b. Mounting clips attached to heater and chimney pipe, See Figure 7 on Page 15.

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CLOSE CLEARANCE INSTALLATIONS (in inches)

Close clearance installation is possible by using the following brands of black, double-wall chimney pipe. (See

Figure 4 and Figure 5 for clearances.)

1. Simpson Dura-Vent double wall chimney connector “Type DVL” and 8" Simpson Dura-Vent 2100^oHT

“Type DP” chimney

2. 8" Security Type DL double wall connector and 8" Security Type “ASHT” High Temp Chimney.

3. 8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model “DS” double wall connector-8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model SSII type HT

Chimney System.

4. 8" Metal Fab type “DW” double wall connector - 8" Metal Fab 2100^oHT chimney.

5. 8" Air Jet

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

Drop Cloth

Electric Drill with 3/32" drill bit

5/16" combination wrench

5/16" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16"

wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench

1/4” Rise Per. FT.

Pencil

Socket Set

Level

Tape Measure

Screw Driver

Wall Exit into Metal Tee-Box (Using

Single Wall Pipe)

1. Mark the plumb line on the wall directly

behind the center of the heater. (See Figure

6.)

NOTE: When using #24 ga. min. blued or black

steel pipe, maintain 18" between pipe and

ceiling.

2. Place the vertical portion of the heater pipe

and the elbow in position and project a point

onto the plumb line level with the center of

the elbow.

FIGURE 6

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3. Measure up so there will be at

least 1/4" rise per foot of

horizontal connector pipe, main-

taining clearances to the ceiling as

noted in Figure 7. This will give

you the center of the hole for the

chimney penetration.

1/4” Rise Per. FT.

4. After locating the center of the

penetration, install the tee-box

and chimney as per the chimney

manufacturer’s specifications.

5. Connect the chimney pipe to the

tee-box using #24 ga. minimum

blued or black steel pipe. (DO

NOT use galvanized pipe.) Each

section should fit into the section

below or into the opening on the

stove, for drip-free operation.

Secure each section together by

using at least three (3) sheet metal

screws or rivets.

Wall Exit Into Masonry

(Using Single Wall Pipe)

1. Before connecting the Model 91

Bay to a masonry chimney,

determine if the masonry fire-

place wall pass-through connector

FIGURE 7

thimble meets the NFPA-211 Code and local building codes and is a minimum of 18" from the ceiling. If the

connector thimble does not meet these codes, the pass-through connector must be modified.

Connectors may pass through walls or partitions constructed of combustible material if the connector is:

(a) either listed for wall pass-through or is routed through a device listed for wall pass-through and is

installed in accordance with the conditions of the listing.

(b) Selected or fabricated in accordance with the conditions and clearances as stated in NFPA 211-Code.

Any unexposed metal that is used as part of a wall pass-through system and is exposed to flue gases shall

be constructed of stainless steel or other equivalent material that will resist corrosion, softening, or

cracking from flue gases at temperatures up to 1800^oF.

In addition, a connector to a masonry chimney shall extend through the wall to the inner face or liner but not

beyond, and shall be firmly cemented to masonry.

EXCEPTION: A thimble may be used to facilitate removal of the chimney connector for cleaning, in which case

the thimble shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.

2. Once the through-the-wall thimble codes are met, simply connect the chimney pipe to the wall pass-through

connector using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel pipe as follows:

(a) Maintain 1/4" rise per foot (horizontal length) from the appliance to the chimney.

(b) Each section of pipe should fit into the section below or into the opening on the stove for drip-free

operation.

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Ceiling Exit - Close Clearance

1. Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above the

unit so that the weight is hanging in the center of

the flue exit. (A small weight on a string will

serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the ceiling where

the string is suspended to locate the center of the

chimney hole.

CEILING

SUPPORT BOX

2. After locating the center of the hole, install the

ceiling support box, chimney, flashing, and rain.

3. Install Double Wall Connector and chimney

system per manufacturer’s written operating

instructions. See manufacturer’s list of tested

pipes.

SINGLE WALL

PIPE

OPTIONAL NBC

CAST CHIMNEY

CONNECTOR

(COLLAR)

CAUTION: Because of the high efficiency and

low flue gas temperature, freestanding catalytic

heaters connected to masonry chimneys with

oversized flue liners may encounter drafting problems

A positive flue liner (optional) may be necessary to

help draft. A poor drafting chimney may result in poor

performance from the Model 91. This is not a defect

of the Model 91 but a defect in the chimney. This is

not a warranty problem with the Model 91. Contact

dealer for possible solutions for chimney.

FIGURE 8

Example: The rear clearance for the Model 91 from page 12 is 18". (See Figure 1.) This clearance may be reduced

by 50% to 9" by using either of the wall protection devices mentioned below.

ALTERNATIVES FOR WALL PROTECTION

AIR SPACE

COMBUSTIBLE WALL

BRICK CLEAR-

ANCE REDUC-

TION SYSTEM

NAIL OR

SCREW

ANCHOR

BRICK WALL

SPACED OUT I

INCH FROM

PROTECTED

SURFACE

1 INCH NON-COMBUSTIBLE SPACER SUCH AS

STACKED WASHERS, SMALL DIAMETER PIPE, TUBING

OR ELECTRICAL CONDUIT.

MINIMUM

24 GAUGE

SHEET

AIR CIRCULATION

FLOOR

LEAVE I INCH

CLEARANCE FOR

AIR CIRCULATION

METAL

DO NOT USE FASTENERS DIRECTLY BEHIND CHIMNEY

CONNECTOR OR STOVE.

BRICK WALLS MAY BE ATTACHED TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS USING WALL TIES

IF BRICK IS USED. BE SURE FLOOR CAN WITHSTAND WEIGHT OF BRICK.

TOP VIEW

COMBUSTIBLE WALL

MINIMUM 24 GAUGE

SHEET METAL

CLEARANCE REDUC-

TION STEM SPACED

OUT 1 INCH

NON-COMBUSTIBLE

SPACERS

WOOD STOVE

FIGURE 9

FLOOR PROTECTOR

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Tested and Listed Wall Protector

Clearances to combustibles may be reduced if a tested and listed wall protector is installed over a combustible

surface when the following conditions exist:

1. A dead air space of 1" separates the listed and tested wall protector from the combustible surface.

2. The tested and listed wall protector extends form floor to ceiling with a 1" clearance for air circulation at both

the floor and ceiling.

3. The 1" spacers (preferably ceramic rather than metal) must be located at the corners rather than behind the

heater or the chimney connector.

Unlisted and Untested Wall Protector

Wall protectors may be constructed of masonry, 24 gauge or thicker sheet metal, or non-combustible 1/2" thick

insulation board. Conditions 2 and 3 above must be observed but the air space in condition 1 must be increased to

1 1/2".

FINAL CHECK

1. Recheck the specified clearances.

2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.

3. Open the primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass. Make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.

4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

5. Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light paper and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws

properly through the primary drafts.

6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.

7. Open the door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates

a defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting

newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a

proper draft can usually be obtained.

NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but

with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.

If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not solve your problem,

contact your dealer for assistance. If the homeowner installed the unit himself, there generally is a charge for

dealer to service the stove and inspect the installation.

8. The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three

firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR THE

HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)

You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is

normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a

window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape.

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SECTION IV

WOOD HEATER SAFETY

Certain safety hazards are inherent in any wood heater installation. You should be aware of these so that a safe

and proper installation can be made.

1. FAULTY CHIMNEY: An older masonry chimney should be thoroughly checked to be sure there are

no holes or weak spots which could allow sparks or hot gases to escape. If any of these are present, a

positive liner should be installed before heater is installed.

2. HEAT CONDUCTION: Placing combustible materials too close to a heater or chimney can be a fire

hazard.

By keeping these particular hazards in mind as you install and use your room heater you can ensure a safe,

reliable installation.

The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during the heating season to determine if

a creosote buildup has occurred. Any buildup of soot should be removed to prevent the risk of a chimney fire.

To remove chimney or chimney connector, remove screws and/or fasteners. Remove pipe and clean with a steel

wire brush. Replace chimney or chimney connector and replace screws and/or fasteners.

CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar

liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in the heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in

use. All fluids of this type give off volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE!! Don’t take a chance with the

safety of your home and family.

WARNING: Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away from stove. Contact may cause

skin burns.

HELPFUL HINTS

CURING THE PAINT ON YOUR HEATER: During the first several firings, burn small fires to cure the paint

and to prevent damage to the finish. It is a good idea to flip the toggle switch to “Manual” position during these

first firings so the blower will run continuously. This will allow the paint to cure at a slower rate and creates a

better overall finish.

CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with the blower running.

TIPS ON FIRE BURNING

GREEN WOOD vs. SEASONED WOOD-Green wood has a high moisture content, and therefore requires a

hotter ignition temperature. Seasoned wood-cut at least one year before use-allows for a quicker, prolonged burn

and more complete combustion.

SPLIT WOOD vs. ROUND WOOD-Split wood burns easier and more rapidly, whether it’s seasoned or green.

If used after starting a fire, it should be packed tightly to achieve a longer burn.

Round wood burns longer, but requires more effort to start. Inserting a round piece over a bed of red coals with

the damper and drafts open will help it catch fire. Round wood should be used to accomplish an all-night burn.

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SECTION V

OPERATION

This section of the manual is to help you get maximum efficiency and maximum smoke (particulate) reduction

from your heater. If you should experience any difficulty or have questions concerning your heater, contact your

dealer for assistance.

Manufacturer’s recommendation for peak performance and long catalyst life is to burn seasoned hardwood (wood

dried 6-12 month) and place wood from front to back position in the heater.

Build a fire for maximum efficiency. This model burns wood and extracts heat so efficiently, a large fire is not

necessary. A large fire not only wastes energy, it usually results in the home being too warm for comfort. The

following steps will serve as a guide for operating your stove.

GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT BURNING QUALITIES OF WOOD

Type of

Wood

Apple

Ash

Ease of

Starting

Poor

Coaling

Qualities

Excellent

Good

Amount of

Sparks

Few

Fair

Few

Beech

Birch

Cherry

Cedar

Elm

Hemlock

Hickory

Locust

Maple

Oak

Poor

Good

Poor

Excellent

Fair

Good

Fair

Poor

Excellent

Good

Few

Moderate

Few

Many

Very Few

Many

Moderate

Very Few

Few

Moderate

Excellent

Poor

Good

Low

Excellent

Poor

Pine

The Main Audubon Society recently charted the heat produced by a wood fire. They noted that the heat produced

by a wood fire varies greatly with the kind of wood burned. Beech is considered the best wood for a fire. A cord of

well-seasoned Beech will produce as much heat as 169 gallons of fuel oil; Sugar Maple and Red Oak produce as

much heat as 166 gallons of fuel oil; followed by White Ash 154; American Elm 130; White Birch 124; and White

Pine 94.

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BUILDING A FIRE:

1. Place the “Manual/Off/Automatic” switch in the “Automatic” (bottom) position for thermostat control

operation. Turn rheostat knob clockwise (it will click from “Off” position to “On”) so you can vary the speed

of motor.

2. Open the door.

3. While looking inside firebox, operate the damper bypass plate in and out observing the movement. This

should operate freely and close completely. Open the damper bypass.

4. Open the air controls on each side of stove (pull out).

5. Twist 4 or 5 pieces of non-colored newspaper in a roll and place on the floor of the firebox.

6. The Model 91 Bay is not designed for use with grates, andirons or other methods of supporting the fuel.

7. Lay several pieces of dry kindling on top of the newspaper.

8. Place three or four small pieces of firewood, 2-3" in diameter, on top of the kindling.

9. Light the newspaper, close and latch the door. Don’t leave the fire unattended at this point. The draft should

start quickly. If not, it may be necessary to preheat the chimney to get the draft started. To do this, open the

door and add newspaper to the top rear of the wood. Light or let this paper ignite and allow to burn while

holding the door slightly open. Do not leave the stove unattended with the door open! Once the draft has

started, close and lock the door. A direct connect (option) usually solves this problem. Check with your

dealer.

10. After embers and a coal bed have been established, load the heater with wood. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE

ROARING FIRE! Initially, build 2-3 small fires in order to cure the paint on your stove.

11. Within the 20 minute time frame, you can begin to add your wood. Remember—DO NOT FILL firebox

during your first 2 to 3 fires!

12. Once your fire is burning well, close the bypass damper completely (push in). Gradually close the primary air

controls (push in). You will have to experiment with the primary air controls to accommodate your draft. If

you close them too soon, your fire may die down too quickly and go out. Close them gradually, a little at a

time, until you can close completely.

BURN RATES

A. Low Burn Rate: Set primary air controls (both) almost closed - leave open about 1/8". Set the rheostat

for fan control between the low to medium speed. This burn rate is the most desired and most efficient,

but can only be achieved after a fire has been established and burning on its own controlled air. Close

the bypass damper (push in).

B. Medium-Low Burn Rate: Partially close primary air controls (push halfway in). Close the bypass

damper (push in). Set the rheostat for the fan control halfway between low and high.

C. Medium-High Burn Rate: Set the primary air controls almost fully open. Close the bypass damper.

Set the rheostat for the fan control between the medium position and the high position.

D. High Burn Rate: Set primary air controls wide open. Have the damper closed. Set the rheostat for the

fan control all the way on high. USE CAUTION! Close shotgun air control after 5 minutes.

E. Wood Loading: During refueling, open (pull out) the bypass damper to allow smoke in the firebox to

escape - wait a few seconds, slowly add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open

primary air control wide open for 2 minutes to charge the wood. After most of the wood has burned and

if you are not planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open damper bypass, then the

door, and rake the wood and coals into a pile near the front center of the firebox. (Be certain wood

chunks are pulled out of the rear corners.) Close the door and the damper bypass. This step will assure

continued combustion and thorough burning of the wood.

You will have to experiment with the fire rate until you find the particular setting for heating your home.

Chimney drafts, tightness of the house, doors, windows, insulation in the house, and atmospheric conditions all

influence which setting you must have, so it may take several firings to learn the setting necessary for your

installation. Heating capacity is based on BTU output and the conditions listed above. These conditions will

affect the heating capability of your heater.

Although the catalytic stoves decrease ash residue, routine removal of excess ash is still necessary.

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SECTION VI

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE / PARTS REPLACEMENT

THE CATALYSTS

The catalysts in your stove are designed for many years of use. If after several years of use, the efficiency of the

stove decreases or if a notable amount of smoke is observed, the catalysts may need to be replaced. See the

Catalyst Warranty prior to replacement. The following points are some general guidelines from the catalyst

manufacturer.

1. Do not “hot fire” the stove. For many years retailers and installers have advised customers to build an extra

hot fire to burn creosote deposits in the fire system. This advice may be acceptable for non-cat stoves, but

can be death to a catalyst. Why? Because the catalyst is reducing the particulate, or creosote buildup,

therefore the need to “hot fire” is eliminated. Proper chimney cleaning procedure should be followed.

2. Direct Flame contact is death to a catalyst. A catalyst burns the by-products in the smoke. The gases such as

CO, HC, and O²ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in the presence of the catalyst (while passing

through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhibits this reaction by changing the chemical make-up

of the catalyst breaking down the substrate or ceramic. This problem is called flame impingement. Today’s

modern stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, a strong, fast draft can pull the

flame into the catalyst. Or, a hot fire, with all the air controls and/or the ash door open can literally torch the

catalyst. The remedy for the hot fire related flame is to advise customers not to “hot fire” the stove. The

customer will enjoy their catalysts longer and with better performance if these guidelines are followed. Fly

ash problems also can be reduced by controlling the draft.

3. The “Glow” Misconception: A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination

that a catalyst is not working simply because it does not glow is inaccurate. During the low burn cycle, when

the catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow. Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc.)

can burn clean enough not to produce a glow in the converter. In most new stoves, you cannot see the

catalyst.

4. Light Off Temperature: CO conversation in the Applied Ceramics catalyst begins at a very low

temperature. Usually, a normal start up to produce a coal bed will produce more than sufficient temperatures

to begin catalytic combustion.

5. The catalyst is not consumed or “used up”. The nature of a catalytic reaction is defined as follows, by the

American Heritage Dictionary, Second College Edition: cat.a.lyst n “1. Chem. A substance, usually present

in small amounts relative to the reactants, that modifies and especially increases the rate of a chemical

reaction without being consumed in the process.” This means your catalyst is always there. This also means

that gases that would normally go out the flue system and pollute the environment are being burned to create

more heat from less wood.

6. Why does a catalyst stop working? Most catalyst that are returned are either destroyed by flame

impingement, broken due to accidents or mishandling, or have nothing wrong with them but fly ash build-up.

A catalyst can be “saturated” with by-products of wood burning such as potassium. This is chemical

saturation. The prohibitive chemical will fill in the chemical “holes” that the gases normally use for reaction.

This process of saturation can be slowed by regular maintenance of the catalyst. Saturation can take several

years since there are units in use for over five years. Burning garbage, painted woods, or large amounts of

colored paper can poison your unit. Poisoning, however, is very difficult to do. Burning colored paper

causes more of a fly ash problem than a risk of poisoning. NEVER BURN RUBBER OR PLASTIC.

7. Burn only seasoned dried wood. Wood should be dried for at least 12 months prior to burning. The wood

should be FREE of any moisture such as RAIN or SNOW. Wet wood creates water vapor which can drop the

temperature of the catalyst. The results can be plugging, clogging, and thermal shock to the catalyst. When a

catalyst has ceased to be effective, you will notice increased fuel usage and your chimney sweep will notice

increased creosote in your system. Before you replace the unit, review this section. If you find that your

catalyst should be replaced, follow the instructions for warranty replacement that were provided when your

unit was purchased.

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8. Cleaning the catalyst with plain water can reduce build-up of the catalyst-retarding chemicals. Nothing but a

soft brush, low pressure air or plain water should be used to clean a catalyst. The ceramic unit is fragile in

comparison to the rest of the stove, so it should be handled with care. A soak in warm or hot (not boiling)

water for 20 minutes is ideal. Then, allow the unit to cool at room temperature and rinse under medium

pressure under a faucet. Allow the unit to thoroughly dry before reinstalling it or you will damage it. Finally,

reinstall the unit. A cleaning once every year is sufficient for most users. Clean it when you have your flue

system cleaned.

CATALYST REPLACEMENT (Off-Season Replacement Recommended)

1. Spread a drop cloth in front of the stove.

2. Open the door and clean out any ash.

4. Using penetrating oil, generously lubricate the eight (8) bolt threads holding the catalyst housing in place.

Allow oil to penetrate.

5. Using a 9/16" wrench or 9/16" socket, loosen the eight (8) nuts and remove the catalyst housing (drop down)

and place in a suitable work area. BE CAREFUL removing the 8 nuts. If you break the bolt, you will have to

drill out the bolt (difficult) and wait for your dealer to order one! You do not want this to happen during the

cold weather!

6. Using needle nose pliers, grasp the front edge of the stainless steel “cans” which houses the catalytic element

and pull upward. Reposition pliers to another position and pull upward. Repeat procedure until the catalyst

can be removed from the housing.

7. Using a small putty knife or scraper, remove any gasket that may have adhered to the catalyst housing.

8. Now, obtain the new catalysts and wrap the stainless steel “can” with interam gasket and tape ends together

using scotch tape or masking tape. IMPORTANT: BEFORE STARTING TO REPLACE CATALYST,

contact your dealer and order the INTERAM gasket and the CATALYST HOUSING Gasket. Gaskets not

covered under warranty. It may take your dealer several days to receive the gaskets.

9. Insert the new catalysts into the catalytic housing and push down until they are seated on the top of the

stainless steel wire mesh supports.

10. Reinstall the catalyst housing into the stove and secure in place with the bolts.

11. The stove is now ready for use.

DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT (Cold Heater)

To replace deteriorated gaskets, the following steps must be taken to ensure proper installation of gaskets.

1. Obtain the proper gaskets and silicone glue from your local dealer.

2. Using pliers, remove any worn and deteriorated gaskets.

3. Using a scraper, wire brush, and sandpaper or steel wool, clean glue and gasket residue from the door frame.

4. Measure and cut gaskets to length. Care should be taken not to stretch the gaskets. What you want is a full

and loose gasket weave after attachment to the framing.

5. Obtain the silicone glue and run a 3/16" bead inside the door frame.

6. Obtain the gasket (s) and place in the gasket channel areas. Use a technique which assures that the gasket is

applied in a loose like manner. DO NOT STRETCH GASKETS.

7. After gasket (s) are applied to the glue, use your finger and go over all the gasket gently pressing the gasket

to the channel. Use the same pressure against the gasket so that the final result is an evenly applied gasket.

8. Leave door open and allow at least one hour for the glue to dry.

9. Once gaskets are checked, the heater is ready for use.

10. This should be done annually. Allowing gaskets to deteriorate can cause over-firing and shorten the burn

time.

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MOTOR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

(Motor, Thermostat, Rheostat, Wiring Harness)

1. Unplug the heater from the 115V AC outlet.

2. To replace the motor you must first take the cover door off. Do this by removing the two screws holding it in

place.

3. Next, you will find a wire cage protecting you from the electrical components of this unit. By looking to the

right of the ash pan, you will find the two screws that hold the wire cage in place. Remove the two screws.

You will also find a screw at the bottom right of the wire cage. Remove this screw. It will be easier to

remove the cage if you first take the knob and nut from the rheostat that is hooked to the cage. Lay the cage

aside.

4. To remove the motor simply unhook the wire servicing the motor. Take the two screws holding the motor

bracket out.

5. Gently slide the motor out, and while pulling it out moving the rear of the motor facing you from right to left

in a counterclockwise motion.

6. To replace the thermostat follow steps 1 through 3 and then gently push the thermostat up out of the bracket.

7. To rewire the motor, rheostat, and thermostat see Figures 10.

8. To replace the motor turn the motor so that the 4"x4" air discharge opening is pointing toward the rear of the

stove. The flat part of the motor housing is turned up. With the air discharge opening pointing in the 2

o’clock position, start in toward the unit rotating the rear of the motor clockwise. The air discharge opening

of the motor housing fits in a cavity in the rear of the unit that will direct the air flow to the proper location.

Make sure the air discharge opening is located firmly in the opening. Replace motor bracket to the motor.

9. Hook up the wiring to all three components if you have replaced or unhooked them.

10. Replace rheostat on to the screen housing. Fasten the screen housing to the vertical bar to the right of the ash

pan. Also fasten the motor bracket to the bar at the same time.

11. Replace screw at the bottom of the screen guard. Replace cover door.

12. Plug heater back into a 115V AC outlet.

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WIRING SCHEMATIC

OFF

AUTO/MAIN

SWITCH

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SECTION VII

TROUBLESHOOTING

Operation of any wood heater can create problems. While the use of a catalytic-combustor equipped stove will

substantially lessen some of these problems– such as creosote formation– other traditional wood heater problems

may remain.

The following guidelines apply to operation of all wood heaters, with problems related to catalytic heater

addressed where appropriate.

HEATER RELATED

PROBLEMS

Possible Cause

Solution

Problem

1. Obstruction in chimney

1. Check cap and chimney and

remove obstruction.

1. Sluggish heater Performance

2. Improperly sealed trim kit or

direct connect kit

2. Check trim kit gasketing or

direct connect kit seal to

fireplace and gasket as nec-

essary to seal unit. Gasket

under stove if needed. Check

seal or direct connect and

correct.

3. Manual damper in chimney is

closed

3. Open manual damper and wire

shut with stainless steel wire or

remove damper.

4. Closing bypass or exhaust

damper too soon

5. Poor chimney draft

4. Follow New Buck instructions

for proper firing procedures

5. Flue may need extension.

Oversized flue may need direct

connect or positive liner.

6. See section in “Combustor