New Buck Corporation Fan 20 Room Heater User Manual

“MEETS PHASE II EPA STANDARDS”

MODEL 20 Room Heater

FEATURES

PREPARATION

INSTALLATION

OPERATION MAINTENANCE SAFETY

Contact your insurance company for coverage and installation inspection

SAFETY NOTICE

If this heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation

directions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements

in your area.

This product is listed by Warnock-Hersey International, Inc. to the UL Standard No. 1482 and 127.

Manufactured by New Buck Corporation, Spruce Pine, NC 28777

Revised

May/2001

PN-PI-200660

Tested by ITS

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SECTION I

The New Buck Corporation room heater Model 20 is one of the safest and most efficient heating systems

available when installed and operated as specified in these instructions and as stipulated on the operation and

installation labels affixed to the unit. The unit is designed to burn wood fuel only.

Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions may

result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.

Throughout the manual, you will see this symbol .

Please make a special note of these areas.

This indicates areas of importance regarding safety.

Install and use only in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation and operating instructions. Do not connect

this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

ROOM HEATER FEATURES

Before attempting to install or operate your heater, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the features and

operating controls of the unit.

OPERATING CONTROLS

WARNING: Model 20 heater was not designed for fire grates.

1. Bypass Damper: The bypass damper control is located in the top center of the heater front just under the top.

It is operated by pushing or pulling the rod. The damper is fully open when the handle is pulled out and fully

closed when it is pushed in. The damper must be open before the door is opened.

2. Blower Control: The blower control switch is located behind the access door at the lower left hand side of

the front of the unit. The unit has a Auto-Off-Manual manual switch. Set the switch to the Manual position and

the blower well start at any temperature, set the switch to the Off position and the blower well not run at any

temperature. Set the switch to the Auto position and when the stove temperature reaches 110^oblower will

automatically come on.

3. Primary Air Control: The primary air intake draft control is located on the upper portion of the unit next to

the top extension. It is operated by moving up and down to control the amount of primary air entering the

firebox.

4. Warm Air Outlets: Provides heat extraction from the top of the firebox.

5. Baffles: Directs air flow around the unit for maximum heat transfer.

6. Air Inlet: Allows cool air near the floor to be circulated through the blower and back into the warm air

chamber of the heater.

7. Stand: Elevates heater above the floor for safety and a neat appearance.

8. Door: Provides an “airtight” feature. The door allows a much higher burning efficiency than can be obtained

with an open firebox.

9. Hearth Extension: Offers protection from spilled ashes and cinders.

10. Power Cord: Provides electrical power to operate the blower.

11. Chimney Connector: Used to connect unit to chimney or direct connect kit.

12. Catalysts: Enables the unit to burn cleanly and efficiently.

13. Temperature Monitor: The location can be used for either a fireplace insert or freestanding installation.

Monitor hole is located to the right of the damper rod on the front. Remove plug and insert probe provided by

manufacturer.

14. Cover Door: Conceals blower, blower controls and ash pan.

15. Air Wash: Primary air is directed in such a way as to provide a “sweeping” airwash over the glass to assist in

keeping it clean.

16. Ash Pan: Provides for easy ash removal

17. Outside Air Control: Allows for adjustment of the amount of outside air entering the unit (installations using

outside air kit #P21B). Required in Mobile Home Installation.

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EPA COMPLIANCE STATUS

This manual describes the installation and operation of the New Buck Corporation, Model 20 wood heater.

This heater meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Emission limits for wood heaters sold after July

1, 1992. Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from

approximately 10,000 to 39,000 BTU/hr.

CATALYST EQUIPPED

This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper

operation. It is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions

in this manual, or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.

CATALYST WARRANTY

The combustor supplied with this heater is a set of (2) (2x3-5/16x7x25 cells). Consult the catalytic combustor

warranty also supplied with this heater. All warranty claims should be addressed to:

Applied Ceramics

Customer Service Department

P.O. Box 29664

Atlanta, GA 30359

770-448-6888

See enclosed catalyst warranty for instructions. New Buck Corporation does not handle catalyst replacements.

Customer can order direct from Applied Ceramics.

PROPER FUEL SELECTION

This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result

when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

DO NOT BURN:

1) Treated Wood

2) Coal

3) Garbage

4) Cardboard

5) Solvents

6) Colored Paper

7) Trash

Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in release of toxic fumes and may

poison or render the catalytic combustor ineffective.

Burning coal, cardboard, or loose paper can produce soot, or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat the

combustor, causing smoke spillage into the room and rendering the combustor ineffective.

ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF

The temperature in the stove and the gases entering the combustor must be raised to between 500^oF to 700^oF

for catalytic activity to be initiated. This can be determined with the use of a temperature monitor (TM-20).

During the start up of a cold stove a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. This

ensures that the stove, catalyst, and fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures. Even though it is

possible to have gas temperatures reach 600^oF within two to three minutes after a fire is started, if the fire is

allowed to die down immediately it may go out or the combustor may stop working. If this happens open the

damper to raise the temperature to activate the catalyst. Once the combustor starts working, heat generated in

it by burning the smoke will keep it working.

ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF WHEN REFUELING

During the refueling and rekindling of a cool fire, or a fire that has burned down to the charcoal phase, operate

the stove at a medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure that the catalyst reaches approximately

600^oF.

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CATALYST MONITORING

It is important to periodically monitor the operation of the catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning

properly and to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of

heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions. Following is a list of items that should be

checked on a periodic basis.

Combustors should be visually inspected at least three times during the heating season to determine if physical

degradation has occurred. Actual removal of the combustor is not recommended unless more detailed

inspection is warranted because of decrease in performance. If any of these conditions exist, refer to Catalyst

Troubleshooting Section of the owner’s manual.

This catalytic heater is equipped with the means to install a temperature probe to monitor catalyst operation.

Properly functioning combustors typically maintain temperatures in excess of 1000^oF. If catalyst

temperatures are not in excess of 500^oF refer to Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual. You

can get an indication of whether the catalyst is working by comparing the amount of smoke leaving the

chimney when the smoke is going through the combustor and catalyst light-off has been achieved to the

amount of smoke leaving the chimney when the smoke is not routed through the combustor (bypass mode).

Step 1—Light stove in accordance with instructions.

Step 2—With smoke routed through the catalyst, go outside and observe the emissions leaving the

chimney.

Step 3—Engage the bypass mechanism and again observe the emissions leaving the chimney.

Significantly more smoke should be seen when the exhaust is not routed through the combustor (bypass

mode). Be careful not to confuse smoke with steam from wet wood.

CAUTION AGAINST OVER-FIRING

Do Not Over-fire This Heater.

Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage

to the heater and to the catalytic combustor.

MAINTAIN PROPER DRAFT

Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in your

chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors. Too

much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance and may damage the catalytic combustor.

Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing into the room and “plugging” of the chimney or the catalyst.

Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room through appliance and chimney

connector joints.

An uncontrollable burn or a glowing red stove part or chimney connector indicates excessive draft.

ASH REMOVAL

Whenever ashes build up in the firebox and when the fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes.

Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be

placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final

disposal. The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

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SECTION II

MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS

Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as fireplace inserts when:

1. A direct connect kit is used to connect the stove exhaust outlet directly to the masonry flue of the fireplace

when flue liner size is approximately the same size as the heater flue gas exit. A rain cap is also recommended

to keep flue dry thus allowing a hotter draft.

NFPA 211 CODE: The National Fire Protection Association code requires all fireplace insert heaters to be

positively connected from the heater to the flue liner (subject to State and Local codes in your area).

2. An equivalent sized flue liner is installed when the flue liner size is larger than the heater flue gas exit.

Connection must be from stove exhaust outlet extending the full height of the chimney and must include a rain

cap.

3. Location of chimney is interior (not on an outside wall).

Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than as listed above. However, as all chimneys draw

differently, problems with performance may be encountered if steps are not taken to keep the chimney hot. A draft

between .03 and .06 inches of water is recommended for proper catalytic operation.

Use the following to complete the installation of the unit as an insert:

Kit #FP20

INSTALLATION (Fireplace Insert)

FIGURE 1

FIREPLACE INSERT

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MINIMUM CLEARANCES:

The Model 20 Fireplace Insert is intended for installation in accordance with the standard for chimneys, fireplaces,

vents, and solid-fuel burning appliances, NFPA-211 Code. This model is not intended for installation into factory-

built metal fireplaces or for use with a metal chimney (except as listed in Section V of this manual).

1. The hearth must be of masonry construction and must extend a minimum of 16” in front of the firebox

opening and a minimum of 8” to either side of the firebox opening.

2. If there is not 16” from the front of the firebox opening and the front of the masonry hearth, a floor

protector must be used in front of the hearth to protect combustible materials. 2” of brick, a listed “floor

protector” or a floor protector made of non-combustible, inorganic material with a K* factor may be used

as follows:

K = 2.5 BTU/((HR) (Ft²) (^oF/IN))

ALTERNATE FLOOR PROTECTORS MATERIALS

With the floor protector or hearth extension material specified as one layer of 2” thick brick with a K* factor of

5.0, you may use alternate materials as long as the K* factor (s) is calculated as follows:

Formula: Required thickness = (K of alternate material/K of millboard) x (thickness of millboard)

Example: An alternate inorganic non-combustible millboard with a K of .9375 would require a thickness

as follows:

Required thickness = (.9375/5.0) x 2 in.

= 3/8 inch

K Factors of Alternate Materials

Material

Ceroform 126

Limestone

Concrete

Sandstone

Marble

.21

8.0

13.0

18.0

Required Thickness

1/8”

3.2”

5.2”

7.2”

Hearth extension or floor protector thickness above four (4) inches is generally not acceptable due to cost, floor

load capacity, and look. The alternate we recommend is using Ceroform No. 126 millboard 1/8” thick minimum

and putting any type decorative brick or stone (any thickness) on top of it.

•

The K* factor represents the thermal conductivity of a material and is the time rate of heat flow through a

homogeneous material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in the

direction perpendicular to a surface.

3. If your fireplace has wood trim above it, the wood trim must be at least 8” above the top of the unit and

may be a maximum of 1/2” thick.

4. If your fireplace has a wood mantel, the mantel or mantel supports must be located at a height greater

than 12” above the top of the unit.

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REQUIRED FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS

Minimum and/or maximum fireplace dimensions:

Height

Width

Depth

Min.

16”

Min.

Max.

Min.

26”

Max.

41”

Model 20

22”

31”

POSSIBLE TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION

If you decide to install your own stove, there are several hand tools you may need to do the job. If you do not

already have them, they are readily available at most hardware stores.

Caulking gun

Large adjustable wrench (may not be needed)

Drop cloths or newspapers

Vacuum cleaner or whisk broom

Flashlight

1 tube of RTV silicone, Code 103 or 106, or high temperature rubber cement rated between 450^oF- 600^oF

7/32” drill bit and drill

Socket/Rachet Set

INSTALLATION PREPARATION

Fireplace:

1. Locate furniture and other materials away from the front of the fireplace to allow free access to the fireplace.

2. Cover the hearth and adjacent floor areas with the drop cloths to protect from soiling or marring the surface.

3. Remove the existing fireplace damper plate.

4. Thoroughly clean the fireplace of ashes and soot.

5. Check the chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildup of creosote or soot. Also, check for

obstructions, such as bird’s nests. If the chimney is excessively dirty, clean it, or have someone clean it

professionally BEFORE installing or using the room heater.

6. If the fireplace has an ash dump or outside air provision, these must be sealed off with metal or tightly packed

non-combustible insulation to prevent cold air from entering the fireplace chamber.

Heater:

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

3. Check the primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.

4. Check the operations of the damper control to ensure it will open and close properly.

5. If unit is a fireplace insert remove rear side panels and place screws back in the holes before setting the unit in

the fireplace opening.

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NOTE: Due to the redesign for the 2002 series of the Model 20/ZC20, starting

with serial number 003908 . The following steps must be followed for proper in-

stallation and operating.

INSTALLATION

MOUNTING TRIM PANELS FOR MASONRY INSTALLATION

(Changes refer to pages 9 and 10 in your owners manual)

POSITIONING THE HEATER

When positioning the heater, the following conditions

MUST be met! (See Figure 2)

1. The front of the damper opening must be positioned

BEHIND the rear edge of the lintel to ensure proper

draft. (See Figure 2)

2. The vertical plane of the fireplace front must fall

BEHIND the side cold air vent on top of the unit. (In

other words, it is possible to have the heater too far in

as well as not far enough.)

3. Center the heater in the fireplace opening.

MOUNTING THE TRIM PANELS

FIGURE 2

POSITIONING

After the unit is positioned, as shown in Figure 2, mark the

mounting position of the trim panels as follows:

1. Set the top (long) trim panel in place on top of the unit.

The panel should be flat against the outside face of the

fireplace, and standing vertically. Mark along the

lower edge of the trim panel with a pencil to make a

reference line for mounting.

2. Set the side trim panels in place behind and against the

intake covers, again, flat against the face of the

fireplace. Mark down the edge of the trim panel to

make a vertical reference line.

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3. Slide the unit out of the fireplace far enough to

work behind the trim panel reference lines.

4. Mount the side trim panels. (See Figure 3)

a. Position the trim panel on the reference line.

b. Drill mounting holes in center of trim panels

mounting brackets to allow for adjustment

in and out if necessary.

c. Mount the trim panel using the self-tapping

screws provided.

5. Place top panel back on reference mark. Take

top trim panel mounting bracket supplied with

unit. Position bracket so it overlaps rear lip of

top trim panel. Drill mounting holes in top of

stove using holes in bracket as guide. Tighten

down screws. NOTE: The mounting Bracket is

only necessary with direct connect installation.

6. Now, follow the installation procedures in the

listed direct connect or positive connect kit you

are using and install the heater and connect kit in

the fireplace.

FIGURE 3

MOUNTING TRIM PANELS

7. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be

sure that the trim panels are properly positioned

and lie flat against the front of the fireplace. If

one or more of the panels is out of position, slide

the unit out and reset by loosening the mounting

screws and repositioning in the slot.

8. Reinstall the top trim panel by sliding the rear lip of the top trim panel underneath the front lip of the mounting

bracket already secured to top of unit.

NOTE: Mount the top trim panel so that it sits in front of the top of the side trim panels.

9. Obtain the brass trim kit provided with unit and slip over the top and sides of trim panels. (Top ends of brass

may need to be trimmed to fit.)

10. If direct connect or positive connect kit is not used, follow instructions in steps 1-4c on previous page.

11. Mount top trim panel by drilling mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets, with top end side

of top panel overlapping side panel.

12. Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1” on each

side and top. (See Figure 3.)

13. Next using high heat silicone or furnace cement run heavy bead of caulking around where panels meet the

stove. (See Figure 3.)

14. Slide the unit back into the fireplace. Check to be sure that the trim panels (and brass) are properly positioned

and lie flat against the front of the fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide the unit out and reset by

loosening the mounting screws and repositioning in the slot. With bar, lift stove in front. Place insulation

across front and the surface of hearth or bottom of fireplace, to make complete seal.

15. To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around the entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If

flame leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.

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FINAL CHECK

1. Recheck the specified clearances.

2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.

3. Open the primary air draft and damper bypass.

4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” position to ensure motor operates

properly.

5. Place crumpled pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light it and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws

properly through the primary drafts.

6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.

7. Open the door and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates a

defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting

newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a proper

draft can usually be obtained.

If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not reveal the problem, contact

your dealer for assistance.

NOTE: The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or

three firings. You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires.

This is normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases, these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a

window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape. DO NOT build a large, roaring fire until this curing is

complete or the heater finish may be damaged.

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SECTION III

RESIDENTIAL FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION PRECAUTION

Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as freestanding stoves when

vented into a masonry chimney if:

1. A rain cap is installed on the chimney.

2. Height of chimney is at least 15 feet high.

3. Location of chimney is interior (not on an outside wall).

NOTE: Certain types of double wall pipe (close clearance) also cause a substantial drop in flue gas temperature. If

a double wall pipe connector is being contemplated, check with the pipe manufacturer to ascertain that the use of

their product will not affect the flue gas temperature. Do not use double wall pipes which reduce flue gas

temperatures.

Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than listed above. However, draft problems are

possible if a hot chimney is not maintained.

Use pedestal kits as follow:

Model 20

Kit #P8 or #P21B

CAUTION: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.

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MINIMUM CLEARANCES

The New Buck Corporation Model 20 must be installed in compliance with the instructions contained in this

manual.

CLEARANCE FROM COMBUSTIBLE WALLS AND CEILINGS (Using single wall chimney connector)

The minimum lateral distance between any part of the room heater and combustible walls is shown in Figures 1

and 2.

FIGURE 1

WALL INSTALLATION

FIGURE 2

CORNER INSTALLATION

FLOOR PROTECTION

If a freestanding model is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to

protect the floor from burning material from the stove. The pad must be 36” wide by 37” deep. UL tests were

conducted without a floor protector. Therefore, the protector can be of any thickness and any K* factor.

The unit must be positioned on the pad so that there is a minimum of 16” from the front of the door opening to the

front of the pad, and a minimum of 8” measured horizontally from the sides of the fuel loading and ash removal

openings to the sides of the pad.

NOTE: For clearance reductions using wall protectors, refer to the NFPA -211 code.

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Close clearance installations using listed Close Clearance pipe and 2100^oHT chimney system from approved

manufacturer’s list. (See page 18)

12”

FIGURE 3

WALL INSTALLATION

FIGURE 4

CORNER INSTALLATION

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

Drop Cloth

Electric Drill with 3/32” drill bit

5/16” combination wrench

5/16” magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16” wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench

Socket Set

Tape Measure

Pencil

Level

PREPARING THE STOVE FOR INSTALLATION

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

3. Check the primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.

4. Check the operation of the bypass damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.

5. Remove any items from within the firebox. Spread the drop cloth on the floor behind the heater. Next, tilt the

heater so that the back is on the drop cloth.

6. Using a tape measure, make a line down 3” from the front of the heater.

7. Open the corresponding freestanding kit and obtain the stand. Place the stand against the bottom of the heater

(angle side to heater) at the marked line. Center the stand left and right and mark screw locations on bottom

through outer holes of stand mounting angles. Set stand aside and drill four 3/32” holes in heater bottom.

8. Obtain four 3/16” self-tapping screws and secure the stand to the heater.

9. Reposition the heater to the upright position.

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PREPARING THE ROOM HEATER LOCATION

1. Select an installation location that will give the best airflow from the front of the heater to the remainder of the

home.

2. Place the protective floor pad in position.

3. Place the unit on the pad making sure the minimum clearance specifications are met.

4. If connecting to an existing masonry flue, first ensure that the flue conforms to the NFPA-211 Code and/or

consult your local code for proper procedures.

CHIMNEY

This room heater must be converted to (1) a chimney complying with the requirements for Type HT chimneys in

the Standard for Chimneys, Factory-Built, Residential, Type and Building Heating Appliance, UL 103, or (2) a

code approved masonry chimney with a flue liner.

CAUTION: Certain installation types require the use of certain chimney types. Please follow these

instructions exactly.

DETERMINING THE CHIMNEY LOCATION

A. Ceiling Exit (Using Single Wall Pipe)

1. Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above the unit so that the weight is hanging in the center of the flue

exit. (A small weight on a string will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the ceiling where the string is

suspended to locate the center of the chimney.

2. After locating the center of the hole, install the ceiling support box, chimney or chimney connector,

flashing, and rain cap per the chimney manufacturer’s instructions, and local building codes for

installation through combustible walls or ceilings.

3. Now connect the stove and

ceiling support box using #24

ga. minimum blued or black

NOTE:

CEILING

SEE CHIMNEY

MANUFACTURERS

INSTALLATION

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR INSTALLING

CHIMNEY AND

CEILING TRIM

PLATE.

steel connector pipe (DO NOT

USE GALVANIZED PIPE).

Connect each section so the

crimped end faces downward,

and secure each section to each

other using at least three (3)

sheet metal screws or rivets.

Single wall pipe is to be

connected with 3 screws or

rivets to New Buck

CEILING

SUPPORT

BOX

SINGLE WALL

CONNECTOR PIPE

NEW BUCK CORP.

Corporation Chimney

CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

Connector after connector has

been attached to stove. (See

Figure 5)

FIGURE 5

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B. Wall Exit into Metal Tee-Box

1. Mark the plumb line on the wall directly

behind the center of the heater. (See

Figure 6)

2. Place the vertical portion of the heater

pipe and the elbow in position and

project a point onto the plumb line level

with the center of the elbow.

3. Measure up so there will be at least 1/4”

rise per foot of horizontal connector

pipe, maintaining clearances to the

ceiling as noted in Figure 6. This will

give you the center of the hole for the

chimney penetration.

PASS-THROUGH

CONNECTOR

4. After locating the center of the

penetration, install the tee-box and

chimney or chimney connector as per the

chimney manufacturer’s specifications

and local building codes for installation

through combustible walls or ceilings.

FIGURE 6

FLUE EXIT

5. Connect the chimney collar to the tee-box using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel connector pipe. DO

NOT USE GALVANIZED PIPE. Connect each section so the crimped end faces downward, and secure each

section to each other using at least three (3) steel sheet metal screws or rivets.

6. After securing New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector to heater, secure pipe to connector with three (3)

screws or rivets.

C. Wall Exit Into Masonry (Using Single

Wall Pipe)

Before connecting the Model 20 to a

masonry chimney, determine that the

masonry fireplace wall pass-through

connector thimble meets the NFPA-211 code

and local building codes and is a minimum of

18” from the ceiling. If the connector thimble

does not meet these codes, the pass-through

connector must be modified. NOTE: Follow

chimney or chimney connector

manufacturer’s instructions.

Connectors may pass through walls or parti-

tions constructed of combustible material if

the connector is:

CHIMNEY

(a) Either listed for wall pass-through or

is routed through a device listed for

wall pass-through and is installed in

accordance with the conditions of

the listing

FIGURE 7

FLUE GAS EXIT INTO

MASONRY CHIMNEY

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(b) Selected or fabricated in accordance with the conditions and clearances as stated in NFPA-211 code. Any

unexposed metal that is used as part of a wall pass-through system and is exposed to flue gases shall be

constructed of stainless steel or other equivalent material that will resist corrosion, softening, or cracking

from flue gases at temperatures up to 1800^oF.

In addition, a connector to a masonry chimney shall extend through the wall to the inner face or liner but not

beyond, and shall be firmly cemented to masonry.

Exception: A thimble may be used to facilitate removal of the chimney connector for cleaning, in which case the

thimble shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.

2. Once the through-the-wall thimble codes are met, simply connect the chimney collar to the wall pass-through

connector using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel connector pipe as follows:

(a) Maintain 1/4” rise per foot (horizontal length) from the appliance to the chimney.

(b) Connect each section so the crimped end faces downward.

(d) After securing New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector to heater secure pipe to connector with three

(3) screws or rivets.

D. Ceiling Exit-Close Clearance (Using Listed Close Clearance Pipe and 2100^oHT Chimney System From

Approved Manufacturers List. ) (See page 18)

NOTE: SEE SIMPSON

DURA-VENT TYPE

CEILING

“DP” CHIMNEY

INSTRUCTIONS FOR

1. Suspend a plumb bob from the

ceiling above the unit so that the

weight is hanging in the center of the

flue exit. (A small weight on a string

will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark the

ceiling where the string is suspended

to locate the center of the chimney

hole.

CEILING SUP-

PORT BOX

INSTALLING CHIM-

NEY.

SIMPSON DURA-

VENT TYPE

”DVL” DOUBLE

WALL CHIMNEY

CONNECTOR

NEW BUCK

CORP. CHIM-

NEY CON-

NECTOR

2. After locating the center of the hole,

install the ceiling support box,

chimney, flashing, and rain cap.

3. Next, install a New Buck Corp-

oration Chimney Connector to the

flue of the heater.

4. Connect listed chimney to heater and

follow pipe manufacturers

installation instructions exactly.

FIGURE 8

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FINAL CHECK

1. Recheck the specified clearances.

2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.

3. Open the primary air draft and damper bypass.

4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

5. Place crumpled pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light it and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws

properly through the primary draft.

6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.

7. Open the door and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates a

defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting

newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a proper

draft can usually be obtained.

If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not reveal the problem, contact

your dealer for assistance.

NOTE: The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or

three firings. You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires.

This is normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases, these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a

window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape. DO NOT build a large, roaring fire until this curing is

complete or the heater finish may be damaged.

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SECTION IV

MOBILE HOME ROOM HEATER INSTALLATION

WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN

SLEEPING ROOM.

CAUTION: The structural integrity of

the mobile home floor, wall, and ceiling/

roof must be maintained.

Parts Requirements:

MODEL 20

Part Description / Part -

•

Model 20 Room Heater

Outside air pedestal kit #P21B

6” Chimney Connector #MA-6CHIMCNB

New Buck Corporation

UL Listed and factory approved Chimney Systems:

Simpson Dura-Vent

Security

•

6” Double wall chimney connector type DVL

6” 2100^oHT Type “DP” Chimney

6” Type DL Double wall connector

6” Security type “ASHT” high temp chimney

6” Model DS Double wall connector

6” Model SSII Type HT chimney system

6” Type DW Double wall connector

6” 2100^oHT chimney

•

Security

Selkirk Metal Bestos

Metal Fab

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Clearance from combustible walls using listed Close Clearance pipe and 2100^oHT chimney system from approved

manufacturer’s list. (See page 18)

FIGURE 1 WALL INSTALLATION

FIGURE 2

CORNER INSTALLATION

FLOOR PROTECTION

If the room heater is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed below it to

protect the floor from burning material from the stove. The pad must be 36” wide by 37” deep for the Model 20.

Tests were conducted without a floor protector. Therefore, the protector can be of any thickness and any K* factor.

The unit must be positioned on the pad so that there is a minimum of 16” from the front of the door opening to the

front of the pad, and a minimum of 8” measured horizontally from the sides of the fuel loading and ash removal

openings to the sides of the pad.

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

Drop cloth

3/32” Metal drill bit

5/16” magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16” wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench

Jigsaw with masonry, metal and wood blades

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PREPARING THE HEATER FOR INSTALLATION

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

3. Check the primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.

4. Check the operation of the damper bypass control to ensure that it will open and close properly.

5. Remove any items from within the firebox. Spread the drop cloth on the floor behind the heater. Next, tilt the

heater so that the back is on the drop cloth.

6. Using a tape measure, make a line down 3” from the front of the heater.

7. Open the proper outside air freestanding kit and obtain the stand. Place the stand against the bottom of the

heater (angle side to heater) at the marked line. Center the stand left to right and mark screw locations on

bottom through outer holes of stand mounting angles. Set stand aside and drill four 3/32” holes in heater

bottom.

8. Obtain the four #10-16 x 3/4” self-tapping screws provided and secure the stand to the heater.

9. Reposition the heater to the upright position.

PREPARING THE ROOM HEATER LOCATION

1. Select an installation location that will give the best airflow from the front of the heater to the remainder of the

home.

2. Place the protective floor pad in position.

3. Place the unit on the pad making sure the minimum clearance specifications are met.

4. Lightly mark with a pencil the location of the pedestal on the protective pad.

5. Next, remove the four (4) screws holding the heater to the stand. Position heater out of the way of the

installation area.

6. Check that the pedestal stand is still aligned with the marks and now, mark the inside outside air opening of

the stand on the pad.

7. Next, mark the center line of the outside air opening. Set stand aside for now.

8. Next, cut a 4 1/4” diameter hole (2 1/8” radius from centerline) in the pad and continue through the floor.

CAUTION!!! The structural integrity of the mobile home floor must be maintained. (Move opening and/or

reposition heater location if necessary.)

9. Now, reposition the pedestal stand and set on the pad being sure to line the stand up with the reference marks.

10. Using an electric drill and 3/8” masonry bit, drill four (4) holes in the protective pad using the holes in the

bottom side lips of the pedestal stand as a guide. Be careful to drill only through the pad and not into the floor.

Change the bit to a 1/4” metal bit and drill through the floor.

11. Using four (4) 3/8” x 1-1/2” lag bolts, secure the pedestal stand and pad to the floor of the mobile home.

CAUTION!!! If a thick floor protector is used, you may have to use longer lag bolts.

12. Set the heater back onto the stand and re-secure using the screws.

13. Obtain the outside air duct from the box in the pedestal kit marked FA P21B.

14. From under the mobile home, slip the duct up through the 4” hole. Push up until the face of the outside air

duct contacts the underside of the floor of the mobile home. For certain floor thicknesses, you may have to

shorten the length of the outside air duct.

15. Secure the outside air duct to the floor using four (4) - 10x1” screws. (See Figure 3.)

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OUTSIDE AIR

PEDESTAL KIT

PROTECTIVE PAD

#10 X 1

OUTSIDE AIR DUCT

MOBILE HOME FLOOR

FIGURE 3

DETERMINING THE CHIMNEY LOCATION

1. Suspend a plumb bob from the ceiling above the unit so

that the weight is hanging in the center of the flue exit. (A

small weight on a string will serve as a plumb bob.) Mark

ROOF

CEILING

the ceiling where the string is suspended to locate the

center of the chimney hole.

2. After locating the center of the hole, install the ceiling

support box, chimney, flashing, and rain cap.

SIMPSON DURA-

SIMPSON

VENT TYPE “DP”

CHIMNEY

CAUTION!!! - Refer to chimney manufacturers instructions

for assembly and disassembly of chimney parts. Be sure to

DURA-VENT

SQUARE SUP-

PORT BOX

follow chimney instructions for proper clearances to

SIMPSON DURA-

combustible and proper air spacing required.

VENT TYPE “DVL”

DOUBLE WALL

CHIMNEY CONNEC-

TOR

3. Add additional pipe until both of the following are met:

NEW BUCK CORP.

CHIMNEY CONNEC-

TOR

(a) Chimney pipe is 3’ higher than roof at the point where

it penetrates the roof. (See Figure 4.)

(b) Chimney pipe height is at least 2’ higher than any part

of the roof within 10’ of the chimney. (See Figure 5.)

4. Next, install a New Buck Corporation Chimney Connector

to the flue of the heater. (See Figure 4.)

5. Using “Type DVL” double wall chimney connector,

connect the heater to the chimney by following Dura-Vent

installation instructions exactly.

FIGURE 4

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RAIN CAP

STORM COLLAR

2FT.

3 FT.

TYPICAL

2FT.

STORM COLLAR

FLASHING

NEW BUCK

CORP.

NEW BUCK CORP.

FIRESTOP RADIATION

SHIELD

FIRESTOP

RADIATION

SHIELD

20 FT.

MAX.

TYPICAL

OUTSIDE AIR DUCT

THROUGH FLOOR WHEN

NOT UNDERPINNED

OUTSIDE AIR DUCT TROUGH

UNDERPINNING

FIGURE 5

FINAL CHECK

1. Recheck the specified clearances.

2. Remove all foreign material from the firebox area.

3. Open the primary air draft and damper bypass.

4. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

5. Place crumpled pieces of newspaper in the stove. Light it and close the door. Ensure that the stove draws

properly through the primary draft.

6. Check for smoke leaks around the door.

7. Open the door and check for smoke escaping from the front of the stove. Smoking usually indicates defective

or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting newspaper

and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once the chimney heats up, a proper draft can

usually be obtained.

If a thorough review of the Troubleshooting Guide in the rear of the manual does not reveal the problem, contact

your dealer for assistance.

NOTE: The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or

three firings. You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires.

This is normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases, these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a

window near the unit will allow these fumes to escape. DO NOT build a large, roaring fire until this curing is

complete or the heater finish may be damaged.

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SECTION V

PRE-FAB INSERT INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS

This room heater is listed by Warnock-Hersey Laboratories for installation into the following Zero-Clearance

Cabinet Models. These are:

MAJESTIC—M-36, M-43, L-36, L-42, MD36, MD42, MD36-AO, MD42-AO

HEATILATOR—FP36, 3036, 3042, 3048, 3138, 3138 EP

PREWAY—DW36, DW42, BI36, BI42, BI36B, BI42B, BI36EM, BI42EM, BI36CEM, BR42CEM,

BI36SEM, BI42SEM

NOTE: A Preway unit has to use insert trim panels.

Other models of those brands may also be acceptable for installation of the Model 20 unit into them. However,

factory approval from New Buck Corporation and Warnock-Hersey Laboratories is required prior to installation.

Installation must conform to New Buck Corporation installation instructions or addendums.

INSTALLATION (Pre-Fab Fireplace Insert)

FIGURE 1

PRE-FAB FIREPLACE INSERT

MINIMUM CLEARANCES

INSTALLATION PREPARATION

Pre-Fab Fireplace

1. Locate furniture and other materials away from the front of the fireplace to allow free access to the fireplace.

2. Cover the hearth and adjacent floor areas with the drop cloth to protect from soiling or marring the surface.

3. Remove the existing fireplace damper plate/damper rod assembly.

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4. Thoroughly clean the fireplace of ashes and soot.

5. Check the chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildup of creosote or soot. Also, check for

obstructions, such as birds’ nest. If the chimney is excessively dirty, clean it, or have someone clean it

professionally BEFORE installing or using the room heater.

6. The Firebrick, Ash Lip, Smoke Baffle, and Smoke Shelf may also be removed if necessary to provide room

for the Model 20.

CAUTION: Any parts removed from the Pre-Fab Fireplace must be stored inside the unit or given to the

homeowner for re-installation should the Model 20 be removed.

Heater Preparation

1. Inspect the unit for any obvious physical damage.

2. Plug the power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure

motor operates properly.

3. Check the primary air draft control to ensure that it operates freely.

4. Check the operations of the damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.

Heater Installation

1. There are three listed and tested methods of installation of the Model 20 heater into the specified Pre-Fab

Models.

A. 6” Increaser

1. The preferred method is to use an increaser made of 24 ga. (minimum) stainless steel to go from 6”

inside diameter to the exact diameter of the fireplace throat/chimney. (See Figure 2.)

2. Position the increaser into the throat/chimney of the Pre-Fab Cabinet at a height slightly higher than

the Model 20 will be after installation (22” + above Pre-Fab heater supports). NOTE: The increaser may

be a two part slip connector type if desired.

B. Ceramic Blanket

1. The second method is to use a 6” stainless steel connector (rigid or flex) and a ceramic blanket

(available from your dealer). (See Figure 3.)

2. Cut the connector at least 18” long and tightly wrap the upper portion of the connector with the

ceramic blanket to almost the size of the fireplace throat/chimney.

3. Insert the connector into the fireplace throat/chimney and use additional ceramic insulation and tightly

pack around the connector and the throat/chimney at a height slightly higher than the Model 20 will be

after installation (22” + above Pre-Fab heater supports). NOTE: The increaser may be a two part size

connector type if desired.

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MINIMUM CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES

INCREASER

FIGURE 2

PACK TIGHT WITH CERAMIC

WOOL (DO NOT USE GLASS

WOOL).

6” FLEX PIPE OR ADJUSTABLE

ELBOW

FIGURE 3

C. Sealing Trim Kit

1. This third method of installation is to use the masonry fireplace trim kit to seal the stove to the Pre-Fab

fireplace.

CAUTION! Although this method is a tested and approved method, some codes may not allow this type

installation so be sure to check local codes for approval prior to making this type of installation.

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2. To complete this installation, follow the basic masonry fireplace trim kit installation instructions

except:

The trim kit may have to be cut down in size so as not to block any cooling vents/chambers of the Pre-

Fab Fireplace.

3. To complete methods 1 and 2:

Position the heater into the Pre-Fab Fireplace and center the flue exit under the connector.

4. Slide the connector (or slip connector) down into the flue exit of the heater approximately 3/8”. Check

that the damper operates without hitting the connector. Now, seal the connector to the heater (and

fireplace throat if method #1 is used) using refractory cement.

CAUTION! Do not loosen the ceramic blanket.

5. CAUTION! Crimped end of connector must be placed into the heater throat.

6. Check installation minimum clearances and install an approved heater extension or floor protector to

meet at least the minimum clearances.

This heater is now ready for use. Please read the heater operation Section VII of this manual before burning a fire

in the heater.

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SECTION VI

WOOD HEATER SAFETY

Certain safety hazards are inherent in any wood heater installation. You should be aware of these so that a safe and

proper installation can be made.

1. FAULTY CHIMNEY: An older masonry chimney should be thoroughly checked to be sure there are no

holes or weak spots which could allow sparks or hot gases to escape.

2. HEAT CONDUCTION: Placing combustible materials too close to a heater or chimney can be a fire

hazard.

By keeping these particular hazards in mind as you install and use your room heater you can ensure a safe,

reliable installation.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

For your protection, read and follow these safety precautions closely.

1. Use a spark arresting shield (3/8” mesh) on top of the chimney. Check monthly as this is a code

requirement in some areas.

2. Use smoke detectors around the heater as well as in sleeping areas.

3. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for Class “A” fires near the heater.

4. Check with your insurance company to be sure your policy covers the installation and use of a wood fired

room heater.

5. Creosote-Formation and Need for Removal: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other

organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in

the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the

flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during the heating season to determine if

a creosote buildup has occurred.

If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

6. Locate furniture and any other combustibles away from the heater.

7. Store firewood at a safe distance from the heater.

8. Disposal of Ashes: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed

container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away from all

combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise

locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

Ashes can ignite up to 72 hours after removal.

9. Always exercise caution when using your heater. Be particularly careful when there are children around

an operating heater.

CAUTION!!

NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar

liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in the heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in use.

All fluids of this type give off volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE!! Don’t take a chance with the

safety of your home and family.

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SECTION VII

OPERATION

This section of the manual is to help you get the maximum efficiency and maximum smoke (particulate) reduction

from your heater. If you should experience any difficulty or have any questions concerning your heater, contact

your dealer for assistance.

Build a fire for maximum efficiency. This model burns wood and extracts heat so efficiently, a large fire is not

necessary. A large fire not only wastes energy, it usually results in the home being too warm for comfort.

The following steps will serve as a guide for operating your stove.

BUILDING A FIRE:

1. Open the door.

2. While looking inside the firebox, operate the damper bypass door in and out observing the movement. If the

door does not operate freely and seal to the door opening, then the door has jumped out of its track during

shipping and/or installation.

3. Open the primary air control on right side of the stove. Also, open outside air control if so equipped (mobile

home installations).

4. Twist two pieces of non-colored newspaper into a roll and place them on the floor of the firebox.

5. The Model 20 is not designed for the use of grates, andirons or other methods of supporting the fuel.

6. Lay several pieces of dry kindling on top of the newspaper.

7. Place three or four small pieces of firewood, 2-3” in diameter, on top of the kindling.

8. Light the newspaper in the front, close and latch the door. Don’t leave the fire unattended at this point. The

draft system of the heater should start quickly. It may be necessary to preheat the chimney to get the draft

started. To do this, open the door and add newspaper to the top rear of the wood. Light or let this paper ignite

and allow to burn while holding the door slightly cracked. Once the draft has started, close and lock the door.

9. After embers and a coal bed have been established, load the heater with wood.

MODEL 20 OPERATION

A. Low Burn Rate: Set primary air control to the low setting. Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to the Auto

position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open (pull-out) the bypass damper to allow smoke in the

firebox to escape, open the door, and add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Reopen the

door 1/4” for one (1) minute to charge wood. Close and latch door. After most of the wood is burned, if

you are not planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open the bypass damper and door

to rake the wood and coals into a pile near the front center of the firebox. (Be certain wood chunks are

pulled out of the rear corners.) Close door and bypass damper. This step will assure continued combustion

and thorough burning of the wood.

B. Medium—Low Burn Rate: Set the primary air control to the medium-low setting. Set the Auto-Off-

Manual switch to the Auto position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open the bypass damper, open

the door, and add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open primary air control wide open

for five minutes to charge wood. Reset primary air control to the med-low setting. After most of the wood

is burned, if you are not planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open the bypass

damper and door to rake the wood and coals into a pile near the front center of the firebox. (Be certain

wood chunks are pulled out of the rear corners.) Close door and bypass damper. This step will assure

continued combustion and thorough burning of the wood.

C. Medium—High Burn Rate: Set the primary air control wide open. Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to

the Auto position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open the bypass damper, open the door and add

wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open primary air control wide open for five minutes to

charge wood. Reset primary air control to med-high setting. After most of the wood is burned, if you are

not planning on reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open the bypass damper

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and door to rake the wood and coals into a pile near the front center of the firebox. (Be certain wood

chunks are pulled out of the rear corners.) Close door and bypass damper. This step will assure continued

combustion and thorough burning of the wood.

D. High-Burn Rate—Set primary air control wide open. . Set the Auto-Off-Manual switch to the Auto

position. Wood Loading—During refueling, open the bypass damper, open the door, and add wood.

Immediately close door and bypass damper.

NOTE: To select primary air setting, center rod where it exits the air vent opening and align to the marked settings

on the heater.

High

Mid. High

Mid. Low

Low

Align where handle rod exits face of air vent

You will have to experiment with the rate until you find the particular setting for heating your home. Chimney

drafts, tightness of the house doors and windows, and atmospheric conditions all influence which setting you must

have so it may take you several firings to learn the setting necessary for your installation.

Although the catalytic heaters decrease ash residue, routine removal of excess ash is still necessary.

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OPERATING AND SAFETY HINTS:

When preparing to refuel the heater, open the bypass damper (taking the heater out of catalytic mode) and wait for

the smoke to clear out of the firebox before opening the door.

Burn only natural wood in your catalytic heater. You should not burn trash or garbage, artificial or paper logs, gift

wrapping, treated or painted wood, nor should you start a fire with lighter fluid or chemical starter. These and other

compositions may contain lead, zinc, or other elements that can coat the catalyst and reduce its activity.

GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT BURNING QUALITIES OF WOOD

Type of

Wood

Apple

Ash

Ease of

Starting

Poor

Coaling

Qualities

Excellent

Good

Amount of

Sparks

Few

Fair

Few

Beech

Birch

Cherry

Cedar

Elm

Hemlock

Hickory

Locust

Maple

Oak

Poor

Good

Poor

Excellent

Fair

Good

Fair

Poor

Excellent

Good

Few

Moderate

Few

Many

Very Few

Many

Moderate

Very Few

Few

Moderate

Excellent

Poor

Good

Low

Excellent

Poor

Pine

The Main Audubon Society recently charted the heat produced by a wood fire. They noted that the heat

produced by a wood fire varies greatly with the kind of wood burned. Beech is considered the best wood

for a fire. A cord of well-seasoned Beech will produce as much heat as 169 gallons of fuel oil; Sugar

Maple and Red Oak produce as much heat as 166 gallons of fuel oil; followed by White Ash 154;

American Elm 130; White Birch 124; and White Pine 94.

HELPFUL HINTS

CURING THE PAINT ON YOUR HEATER: During the first several firings, burn small fires to cure the paint

and to prevent damage to the finish. It is a good idea to flip the toggle switch to “Manual” position during these

first firings so the blower will run continuously. This will allow the paint to cure at a slower rate and creates a

better overall finish.

CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with the blower running.

TIPS ON FIRE BURNING

GREEN WOOD vs. SEASONED WOOD-Green wood has a high moisture content, and therefore requires a

hotter ignition temperature. Seasoned wood-cut at least one year before use-allows for a quicker, prolonged burn

and more complete combustion.

SPLIT WOOD vs. ROUND WOOD-Split wood burns easier and more rapidly, whether it’s seasoned or green. If

used after starting a fire, it should be packed tightly to achieve a longer burn.

Round wood burns longer, but requires more effort to start. Inserting a round piece over a bed of red coals with the

damper and drafts open will help it catch fire. Round wood should be used to accomplish an all-night burn.

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SECTION VIII

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE / PARTS REPLACEMENT

Check Chimney

A. The chimney should be cleaned as necessary to remove creosote, soot, leaves, birds’ nests, etc. (Refer to Page

27, #5 Creosote Formation.)

B. A neglected chimney can eventually cause a draw restriction or can ignite and burn hot enough to cause

damage to the chimney.

C. For proper inspection the chimney should be cleaned.

D. A chimney cap should be installed to prevent moisture from entering chimney, to prevent sparks and burning

materials from escaping chimney, and to keep birds and foreign materials from entering.

NOTE: Some areas may require an approved spark arrestor.

CLEANING THE HEATER

A. The heater should not be cleaned with any type of detergent as most all detergents have an oil base and cannot

be painted over.

B. The heater should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper or steel wool, then repainted or touched up with high

temperature paint.

C. If the heater is located in a moist or damp location, check thoroughly for signs of condensation during times

when the heater is not in use.

D. When the heating season is over, the heater should be cleaned out completely with a wire brush or cloth to

help eliminate ash and burned wood smell.

CARE OF GLASS DOOR: The glass door on your heater permits you to enjoy the beauty of the fire while

retaining the efficiency of your heater. Although the brand of glass used in the heater door has well established and

recognized heat resistant and strength characteristics, it can be broken through improper care. To achieve the

maximum utility and safety of your glass door, we advise that you observe the following use and safety tips:

1. Inspect the glass regularly for cracks or breaks. If you detect a crack or break extinguish the fire

immediately and return the door to your dealer for glass replacement before further use.

2. Do not slam heater door or otherwise impact the glass. When closing door, make sure that no logs or other

objects protrude to impact against the glass.

3. Do not clean the glass with materials which may scratch it (such as steel wool) or otherwise damage the

glass. Scratches on the glass can develop into cracks or breaks.

The glass can be cleaned with a commercial oven cleaner, providing it does not contain abrasives. A build-up on

the glass that has been there for a considerable length of time can be burned off with a propane torch.

CATALYTIC INSPECTION

Catalytic combustors should be visually inspected at least three times during the heating season to determine if

physical degradation has occurred.

Preferred Inspection Method: The easiest method to determine the condition of the catalysts is to observe the

glow of the catalyst after ignition (med-low firing or hotter). You can observe the catalysts by leaning down and

looking up through the door glass.

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a. Properly functioning catalysts will be exhibiting a uniform glow from one end to the other (indicating

ignition).

b. Physically degraded catalysts will have cold places (areas not igniting) where plugging, crumbling, or

other degradation has occurred. If this occurs, the monitor probe temperature will not increase at a normal

rate. For further inspection it will be necessary to go by the disassembly method as follows:

Disassembly Inspection Method: For thorough catalysts inspection, removal of the catalyst housing is necessary

(cold heater only).

a. Spread a drop cloth in front of the heater.

b. Open door and clean out any ash.

c. Open the bypass door to give access to the two rear mounting bolts.

d. Using 9/16” wrench or 9/16” socket, loosen the four bolts and remove the catalyst housing (drop down)

and place in a suitable inspection area (it may be necessary to use penetrating oil if nuts and bolts have

seized).

e. Inspect top and bottom side of catalysts for plugging, crumbling, and other physical degradation.

1. If a problem exists, refer to the Troubleshooting section of the manual for possible cause of the

problem and solution (including replacement if necessary).

2. Reassemble if the catalysts are okay being sure the stainless steel heat reflector is positioned back in its

original position and bolt housing and heat reflector securely back in place.

( C ) STAINLESS STEEL HEAT

REFLECTOR

( D ) CATALYST AND STAINLESS

“CAN”

( I ) UPPER

FIREBOX (INNER

TOP)

VISUAL INSPECT

CATALYST

( H ) 1/16” X 1/2”

FIBERGLASS GASKET

( B ) MOUNT-

ING BOLTS

( A ) CATALYST

HOUSING

( E ) INTERAM

GASKETING

( G ) STAINLESS STEEL MIXING

WIRE

( F ) STAINLESS

STEEL WIRE MESH

CATALYST REPLACEMENT (Off-Season Replacement Recommended)

The catalysts in your stove are designed for many years of use. If after several years of use, the efficiency of

the stove decreases or if a notable increase in the amount of smoke is observed, the catalysts may need to be

replaced. See the Catalyst Warranty prior to replacement.

1. Spread a drop cloth in front of the stove.

2. Open the door and clean out any ash.

3. Open the bypass door to give access to the two rear mounting bolts.

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4. Using penetrating oil, generously lubricate the four (4) bolt threads holding the catalyst housing in place.

Allow to penetrate.

5. Using a 9/16” wrench or 9/16” socket, loosen the four (4) bolts and remove the catalyst housing (drop down)

and place in a suitable work area.

6. Using needle nose pliers, grasp the front edge of the stainless steel “can” which houses a catalytic element and

pull upward.

7. Using a small putty knife or scraper, remove any gasket that may have adhered to the catalyst housing.

8. Now, obtain the new catalysts and wrap the stainless steel “can” with interam gasket and tape ends together

using scotch tape or masking tape.

9. Insert the new catalysts into the catalytic housing and push down until they are seated on the top of the

stainless steel wire mesh supports.

10. Reinstall the catalyst housing into the stove and secure in place with the bolts.

11. The stove is now ready for use.

2” X 2” X 7” STANDARD 25 CELL

CORNING LONG LIFE CATALYSTS

1/16” THICK INTERAM GASKET AND

STAINLESS STEEL CAN (2 EA.)

1/16” THICK INTERAM GASKET

(LAP ENDS 1/4” AND TAPE)

APPLY 1/16”X 1/2” FIBERGLASS

GASKET COMPLETELY AROUND

SEALING LIP.

BOLT HOLES

CATALYST HOUSING

(STEEL OR CAST IRON)

FRONT

DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT (Cold Heater)

To replace deteriorated gaskets, the following steps must be taken to ensure proper installation of gaskets.

1. Obtain the proper gaskets and silicone glue from your local dealer.

2. Using pliers, remove any worn and deteriorated gaskets.

3. Using a scraper, wire brush, and sandpaper or steel wool, clean glue and gasket residue from the door frame.

4. Measure and cut gaskets to length. Care should be taken not to stretch the gaskets. What you want is a full and

loose gasket weave after attachment to the framing.

5. Obtain the silicone glue and run a 3/16” bead inside the door frame.

6. Obtain the gasket (s) and place in the gasket channel areas. Use a technique which assures that the gasket is

applied in a loose like manner. DO NOT STRETCH GASKETS.

7. After gasket (s) are applied to the glue, use your finger and go over all the gasket gently pressing the gasket to

the channel. Use the same pressure against the gasket so that the final result is an evenly applied gasket.

8. Leave door open and allow at least one hour for the glue to dry.

ROPE GASKET

SILICONE

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OPERATION OF SWITCH

With Power Cord Plugged Into 115V AC Outlet.

(A) For Auto position push in top of switch. When the room heater becomes warm enough

the Room Air Blower will come on and stay on until your room heater falls below the acti-

vating temperature for the thermostat.

(B) For Off position place the switch in the middle position.

Air Blower to operate without the thermostat being activated. With the switch placed in this

position the Room Air Blower will continue to operate until it is Manually shut Off.

WIRING SCHEMATIC

(Changes refer to page 34 in your owners manual: Due to the Auto-Off-Manual switch

replacing the Rheostat.)

NOTE: When ordering replacement parts for your Model 20/ZC20 Room

Heater, be sure to have the serial number available to insure that you receive

the correct parts.

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SECTION IX

CATALYTIC TROUBLESHOOTING

CONTENTS

Definitions

Possible Problems

Plugging

Extreme Temperatures

Flow Restrictions

Creosote Build-up

Chemical Deactivation

Excessive Handling

Condensation in Chimney

Backpuffing

Non-uniform flow

Troubleshooting

Heater Related Problems

1. Sluggish Heater Performance

2. Drop in Overall Efficiency

3. High Fuel Consumption

4. Backpuffing

5. Smoke Rollout When Heater Door Is Opened

6. Low Catalytic Temperature

7. Creosote Running From Draft Inlet Openings

Chimney-Related Problems

1. Creosote Accumulation

2. Tar and Liquid Creosote Leaking from Metal Flue Joints

3. Heavy Concentration of Smoke Leaving Chimney

4. Rusted or Corroded Flue Parts

5. Odor

6. Poor-Drafting Chimney

Combustor-Related Problems

1. Plugging

2. Catalyst Peeling

3. Chemical Deactivation

4. Catalyst Masking

5. Substrate Cracking-Thermal

6. Substrate Cracking-Mechanical

7. Substrate Crumbling

8. Color Variations

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DEFINITIONS

AIRTIGHT HEATER—In an airtight heater, all air enters in through the inlets. Generally, non-airtight stoves are

not as efficient and their level of heat output is less controllable than that of an airtight.

BURN CYCLE—Time span between refuelings in which the wood is reduced to a bed of hot coals.

BYPASS—Movable door inside a woodstove that is opened when the stove door is opened to give a path of least

resistance to smoke to prevent roll-out.

CREOSOTE—Condensed wood-gas vapor.

DOWNSTREAM TEMPERATURE—Outlet temperature of the combustor or temperature of the gas leaving the

combustor from the chimney side or face.

DRAFT—Amount of vacuum created by buoyant hot air in the chimney. Draft pulls in oxygen for the combustion

process and pulls out exhaust gases.

FIREBRICK—Brick capable of withstanding high temperatures. Used in furnaces, kilns and stoves. Used to

mean only “hard” or “dense” firebrick as distinguished from “soft” or “insulating” firebrick.

FIRING RATE—Rate at which fuel is burned in a heater.

FLAME IMPINGEMENT– Flames directly contacting the combustor face.

FLUE COLLAR—The part of a stove to which the chimney connector or chimney attaches.

GLOW-PLUG EFFECT—When a combustor is at temperatures above 1400^oF (760^oC) and periodically causes

pockets of wood gas in the firebox to ignite spontaneously.

GREEN WOOD—Non-dried, freshly cut wood from a live tree.

IGNITION TEMPERATURE—The minimum temperature of a flammable mixture of gases at which it can

spontaneously ignite.

LIGHT-OFF—Activation temperature of the combustor catalyst.

NOBLE-METAL CATALYST—A catalyst is a substance that can accelerate a chemical process without being

consumed by it. A noble-metal catalyst is one made of a precious metal or metals. (In the combustor, platinum and

palladium are used because they are stable under high heat conditions.)

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POSSIBLE PROBLEMS

Problems encountered with the operation of catalytic-combustor equipped wood heaters are usually the same as

those experienced in the operation of traditional wood heaters. Our experience has shown that adoption of good

operating practices will eliminate most of these problems. In addition, it should be noted that problems with

catalytic combustors are rare-fewer than 1 percent of combustors are returned for any reason. Nonetheless,

installers and retailers should make themselves aware of the nature, cause and solution to possible problems so as

to serve their customers better.

Plugging-Plugging can occur if the combustor is operated improperly. It may occur if the wrong materials are

burned. Evidence of these types of plugging is a coating of black soot, creosote or fly ash on the combustor.

Burning materials that produce large flakes of char, such as Christmas wrapping paper or cardboard, can plug

enough cells to cause smoke spillage.

Extreme Temperature-A combustor becomes extremely hot during operation. Temperatures between 1400^oF and

1600^oF (760^oC - 870^oC) are common, but operating temperatures between 1200^oF and 1400^oF (650^oC - 760^oC)

are recommended. Most of this heat is transmitted to surrounding heater parts via thermal radiation.

Flow Restrictions-Because the combustor is mounted in the gas flow stream, it does offer resistance to draft. This

restriction or resistance presents two problems:

If the bypass is not open when the fuel-loading door is opened, smoke rollout will occur.

Chimneys that produce marginal draft may prevent operation of a combustor-equipped device. A chimney

that provides, on average, .02” of water draft in low-fire operation would probably not operate with a catalytic

combustor appliance in the low-fire mode. In such a case, the combustor resistance would offset the

remaining draft, resulting in a system that will not draft.

Creosote Build-up-Even though reduction of creosote is one of the primary advantages of a combustor-equipped

device, some creosote-forming gases will escape unburned during normal operation. In the event the combustor

ceases to function, creosote can be expected to accumulate. Consequently, flues and chimneys should be inspected

regularly (every 2-3 months of operation) and any creosote build-up removed. Failure to do this could result in a

chimney fire.

Chemical Deactivation-Deactivation can occur when the catalyst is attacked by materials such as compounds of

sulphur, phosphorus, or lead and other heavy metals. Burning large quantities of trash, pressure-treated lumber or

painted wood can deactivate the catalyst. The operator takes a chance when burning anything other than natural

wood. The catalysts are durable and are not likely to be greatly affected by an occasional mistake, but burning

large quantities of chemical-laden materials will appreciably shorten the life of the combustor. The catalyst can

also be deactivated when it is coated with excessive creosote, carbon or fly ash. This build-up greatly reduces the

amount of catalyst available to react with the smoke.

Excessive Handling-An older combustor, especially one that is “uncanned”, is susceptible to handling damage.

Stress-relief cracks may develop in service but will not affect the performance of the combustor if it is not moved

or handled. Handling a unit with these cracks, however, could result in it breaking apart. Excessive handling could

also potentially remove some of the catalyst coating.

Condensation In Chimney-The burning that takes place in a combustor converts harmful hydrocarbons and

carbon monoxide to heat, carbon dioxide and water. The additional water produced by this complete burning can

lead to associated problems in the chimney.

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Backpuffing-A hot combustor (above 1400^oF) can sometimes act like a glow plug (spontaneous combustion

ignitor). Usually the wood gas-to-air mixture is either too lean or too rich to form a highly flammable mixture.

There are times when this mixture is just right within the firebox during the normal burning process. If the

combustor is running at or above the ignition temperature of the mixture, spontaneous combustion will result,

causing the stove to vent puffs of smoke.

Non-Uniform Flow-Non-uniform flow causes the combustor to heat and cool unevenly and is a result of fuel-

loading configuration. This occurs when the flow pattern of the fire is concentrated on one side of the combustor.

This condition causes thermal stress within the ceramic, resulting in cracking.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Operation of any wood heater can create problems. While the use of a catalytic-combustor equipped stove will

substantially lessen some of these problems—such as creosote formation—other traditional wood-heater problems

may remain.

The following guidelines apply to operation of all wood heaters, with problems related to catalytic heaters

addressed where appropriate.

HEATER RELATED PROBLEMS

Possible Cause

1. Obstruction in chimney

Solution

1. Check for and remove

obstruction

Problem

1. Sluggish heater performance

2. Improperly sealed trim kit

or direct connect kit

2. Check trim kit gasketing seal

to fireplace and gasket as nec-

essary to seal unit. Gasket

under stove if needed. Check

seal of direct connect and

correct.

3. Manual damper in chimney

is closed

3. Open manual damper and

wire shut with stainless steel

wire or remove damper.

4. Follow New Buck

instructions for proper firing

procedures.

4. Closing bypass or exhaust

damper too soon

5. Wet or unseasoned wood

being burned

5. Burn dry, seasoned wood

6. Too much wood added to

too few coals

6. Add small amounts of wood

to small coal beds. Once a

good bed of coals has been

established more wood can be

added.

7. Dislodged stove parts

8. Poor chimney draft

9. Combustor is plugged

7. Check all movable heater

parts. Replace if necessary.

8. See section in “Chimney-

Related Problems”

9. See section in “Combustor-

Related Problems”

1. Cold, windy weather

1. Weather stripping, caulking,

insulation, storm windows

2. Burn quality wood available

in your area

2. Drop in Overall Efficiency

2. Burning wet, pitchy or

spongy wood

3. Combustor not in operating

mode

3. Close bypass or engage

combustor when temperatures

are high enough and

stabilized

4. See “Combustor-Related

Problems”

4. Combustor not functioning

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Problem

3. High Fuel Consumption

Possible Cause

1. Inexperience in catalytic

operation

Solution

1. Operate stove with desired

heat output in mind. Do not be

overly concerned with

maintaining light-off

temperatures

2. Improper regulation of draft or

inlet air

2. Close inlet air control as much

as possible to maintain desired

heat output. Check gaskets,

reinstall fiberglass gasketing

around door and glass as

necessary

3. Burning wet, unseasoned

wood or pitchy spongy wood

4. Cold, windy weather

3. Burn seasoned wood that is

dry and of good quality

4. Weather stripping, caulking,

insulation, storm windows

5. Replace warped stove parts

6. If warped or broken, replace

7. Put combustor in operating

position or close bypass in

stove

5. Smoke bypassing combustor

6. Bypass stuck out

7. Combustor not engaged

8. Combustor not functioning

8. See “Combustor-Related

Problems”

4. Backpuffing

1. Gusts of wind

2. Hot combustor

(Above 1400^oF)

1. Install chimney cap

2. Avoid burning soft, pitchy

wood or large amounts of

small diameter wood

3. Opening doors in a tightly

constructed house

3. Slowly open and close outside

door

5. Smoke Rollout When Heater

Door Is Opened

1. Bypass is closed, or combustor

is in operating position

1. Open bypass or place

combustor in bypass position

before opening stove door

2. Install wind-resistant chimney

cap

2. Wind gusts blowing down

chimney

3. Opening heater door too fast

3. Wait a few seconds after

opening bypass before opening

heater door to give smoke a

chance to exit heater

6. Low Catalytic Temperature

1. Bypass is open

1. Once light-off temperatures

have been reached and unit is

stabilized, close bypass

2. Light-off not obtained

3. Fuel charge is spent

2. Follow manufacturer’s

operating instructions

3. Refuel as necessary for

combustor operation

4. Gases bypassing combustor

4. Check parts, particularly

bypass. Replace if warped.

5. See section on “Combustor-

Related Problems”

7. Creosote Running From Draft

Inlet Openings

1. Burn dry, seasoned wood

2. Burning too much wood in

one load

2. Burn reasonably sized loads

so the combustor has a

chance to burn the wood

gases that are produced.

3. Keep a good bed of coals in

the heater

3. Cool heater walls

CHIMNEY-RELATED

PROBLEMS

1. Leading bypass baffle plate

2. Types and amounts of wood

burned

1. Creosote Accumulation

1. Replace any damaged parts

2. Try not to burn pitchy wood

Don’t overstuff the firebox,

burn pieces of wood with an

approximate diameter of 6”

or larger

3. Replace single-walled metal

chimneys with double-walled

insulated chimney sections

(Meet local codes) Install a

chimney liner in a masonry

chimney. (Meet local codes)

In new installations utilize an

interior chimney rather than

an exterior one

3. Poorly insulated chimney

4. Combustor not functioning

4. See section on “Combustor-

Related Problems”

1. No chimney cap on

chimney

2. Metal flue assembled

improperly

2. Tar and Liquid Creosote

Leaking From Metal Flue

Joints

1. Install a chimney cap

2. Top flue sections should be

inserted into lower flue

sections

3. Normal increase in moisture

due to catalytic burning

(Condenses on cool

3. Replace single-walled

chimneys with doubled-

walled insulated sections

(Meet local codes) Install

chimney liner in masonry

chimney (Meet local codes)

In new installations try to

utilize an interior chimney

rather than an exterior one.

chimney walls)

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Problem

3. Heavy Concentration of

Smoke Leaving Chimney

Possible Cause

1. Water vapor. (On cold, still

days water vapor may be

mistaken for smoke. The

difference is that water vapor

appears white and will tend

to rise vertically and

Solution

1. Water vapor is normal and

should be of little concern

dissipate rapidly while

smoke is usually dark or

bluish brown and will drift

down and settle in low areas

near the ground before

slowly dissipating)

2. Wet, pitchy wood is being

burned

2. Burn dry, seasoned wood

3. Combustor not functioning

3. See section on “Combustor-

Related Problems:

4. Bypass warped or in open

position

4. Replace warped bypass.

Close bypass.

4. Rusted or Corroded Flue Parts

1. Added moisture from

efficient burning

1. Replace worn-out parts with

corrosion-resistant parts or

materials

2. Overheated flue parts due to

a chimney fire

2. Same as #1 above. Have

chimney inspected every 2-3

months of operation for

creosote build-up

3. Age. Failure due to normal

use

3. Replace worn-out parts with

corrosion-resistant

replacements

5. Odor-Both Inside and Outside

The Home

1. Bypass is open

2. Smoke is leaking around

combustor

1. Close bypass

2. Check for warped or

damaged parts. Replace if

necessary

Backpuffs due to wind or hot

combustor

3. See “Backpuffing”

4. Combustor not functioning

4. See “Combustor-Related

Problems”

5. Insert trim panels or direct

connect kit not sealed

5. Check seal and regasket as

necessary

6. Poor-Drafting Chimney

1. Improper chimney height

1. Extend height of chimney

(Meet Codes)

2. Wrong flue size being used.

Ex. - using a 10” flue on an

8” flue collar

3. Cooler temperatures caused

by external chimney

2. Use properly sized flue.

Install topper with 8”

chimney cap to hold heat in

3. Insulate chimney or build

chimney higher. In new

installations, try to utilize

internal chimney

4. Massive stone or masonry

chimney

4. Install chimney liner (meet

codes) Extend height

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GREATER

THAN

LESS THAN

10 INCHES

10 FT.

2 FT.

3 FT.

2 FT.

3 FT.

METAL

CHIMNEY

2 FT. MINIMUM HEIGHT ABOVE THE

ROOF WITHIN 10 FT. HORIZONTALLY

MASONRY

CHIMNEY

CHIMNEY “10 FT.” RULE (MINIMUM HEIGHTS)

Stack wood in criss-cross

pattern under a shelter to allow

air flow to dry the wood and to

keep wood from rain. Green

wood may have 50-60%

moisture content. Wood

seasoned outside uncovered

may have 40% moisture

content. Wood properly

seasoned in a covered

environment will have less than

20% moisture content.

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COMBUSTOR-RELATED PROBLEMS

Problem

Possible Cause

Solution

1. Plugging

1. Burning materials that

produce a lot of char and fly

ash

1. Do not burn materials such

as garbage, gift wrap or

cardboard

2. Burning wet, pitchy wood or

burning large loads of small

diameter wood with the com-

bustor in the operating

position without light-off

taking place

2. Burn dry, seasoned wood.

Don’t place the combustor

in the operating position

until temperatures are high

enough to initiate light-off.

It may be possible to burn

the accumulated soot or

creosote off by putting the

combustor in a partially

open-partially closed

position after a “hot” fire

has been started.

3. Replace combustor

3. Combustor not functioning.

If proper burning procedures

have been followed to no

avail, the combustor is not

functioning.

2. Catalyst Peeling

1. Extreme temperatures (above

1800^oF or 1000^oC) at

combustor surface can cause

the catalyst to peel. Over-

firing and flame

1. If peeling is severe, remove

and replace combustor.

Avoid extreme temperatures

impingement are primary

causes

3. Chemical Deactivation

1. Burning large quantities of

trash, pressure treated

1. Burn quality wood available

in your area. If you decide

the catalyst has been

deactivated, replace

lumber or painted wood.

combustor.

4. Catalyst Masking—a catalyst

with a layer of fly ash or soot

which prevents catalytic

activity

1. Not maintaining light-off

temperatures

1. Place combustor in a

partially closed position

after a “hot” fire has been

started to burn soot off.

2. Revert to burning wood and

fire the combustor at

2. Burning coal causes a sulfur

based compound to coat the

catalyst

elevated temperatures for a

period of 1 hour. (Five 20

minute high-fire startups

would do it)

5. Substrate Cracking-Thermal

1. Normal operation, as long as

combustor remains intact.

1. If cracking causes blockage

of exhaust gases, replace

combustor

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Problem

6. Substrate Cracking—

Mechanical

Possible Cause

1. Mishandling or abuse

Solution

1. Handle with care

7. Substrate Crumbling

1. Extreme thermal shock

2. High draft

1. Combustor being contin-

ually overfired. Reduce burn

rate.

2. Do not exceed .06” of water

draft. Install a manual

damper and draft gauge, or a

barometric damper with

free-standing units

8. Color Variations

1. Variation in color from

combustor to combustor or

within a combustor can

occur (new combustors)

1. These color variations are

normal and do not affect

combustor performance

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Zero Clearance Cabinet

Model ZC20

For use with Fireplace Model 20 only

FEATURES

PREPARATION

INSTALLATION

SAFETY

OPERATION MAINTENANCE

Contact your insurance company for coverage and installation inspection

SAFETY NOTICE

If this cabinet and intended fireplace are not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety,

follow the installation directions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation

inspection requirements in your area.

“WARNING”

“THIS IS NOT A FIREPLACE”

Do not attempt to build a fire in this product. It has been designed and safety tested for use only with Model

20 manufactured by New Buck Corporation. Read and follow the installation and operating instructions for

this model. Do not remove or cover this label.

PI-ZC20660

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SECTION I

RESIDENTIAL INSTALLATIONS

PARTS REQUIREMENTS

Listed NEW BUCK CORP.

Model

ZC20

Part Description/Part #

Zero clearance cabinet assembly with Model 20

fireplace installed

UL Listed and factory approved Chimney Systems

Description

Simpson Dura Vent

Security

Selkirk Metal Bestos

Metal Fab

6” 2100^oHT Type “DP” Chimney

6” “ASHT” High Temp Chimney

6” Model SSII Type HT Chimney

6” 2100^oHT Chimney

CAUTION: Read through all of these instructions carefully. Follow approved Chimney Manufacturer’s

Installation exactly. Failure to install the Cabinet Fireplace, Stove and Chimney as described in the instructions

will void the manufacturer’s warranty and may have an effect on your Homeowner’s Insurance. A major cause of

chimney related fires is failure to maintain required clearances (air spaces) to combustible materials. It is of utmost

importance that these parts be installed only in accordance with these instructions.

The Zero-Clearance cabinet and the Model 20 (hereafter referred to as the ZC20) is designed for installation in a

family dwelling, where minimum clearance is desired.

INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS

The following precautions are mandatory for a safe installation:

A. Compliance with local building codes and regulations is mandatory.

B. Be careful not to damage unit in handling and unpacking component parts and accessories.

C. A UL Listed and Approved Chimney System is to be used and vented to the outside of the building. See

chimney list above.

D. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above the highest point where it penetrates the roof (3’ above a

flat roof or up to 2 1/2 pitch roof), and the chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of

the building within 10’ of the chimney. The minimum height is 12’. A 2” clearance must be maintained

between the chimney and any combustible materials at all points.

E. A rain cap must be used to terminate the chimney to prevent down-draft.

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F. DO NOT build a fire directly inside the ZC Cabinet. It is designed solely for housing the Model 20 Stove.

G. WARNING: This fireplace has not been tested for use with a chase above the roof.

H. Do not connect this unit to a chimney serving another appliance.

SELECTING A CHIMNEY INSTALLATION AND LOCATION

There are two basic types of chimney installations possible with the ZC20; straight up through a ceiling, and chase

installation, either outside or inside. These are normally used as follows:

CHIMNEY CAP

CHIMNEY PIPE

STORM COLLAR

FLASHING

CHIMNEY PIPE

FLASHING

METAL FIRE STOP

Z.C. CABINET

FIGURE 1

THROUGH CEILING

FIGURE 2

THROUGH CATHEDRAL

CEILING

CHIMNEY CAP

CHIMNEY PIPE

STORM COLLAR

FLASHING

ELBOWS

ADJUSTABLE CHIMNEY

METAL FIRE STOP

CAUTION: Refer to chimney

manufacturers instructions for assembly

and disassembly of chimney parts. Be sure to

follow chimney instructions for proper clearances

to combustibles and proper air spacing required.

Z.C. CABINET

FIGURE 3 OFFSET TO CLEAR OBSTRUCTION

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NOTE: Chase Installation: (See Figure 3.) A chase is an enclosure built specifically to house a chimney. The

interior of a chase is open from the ZC20 to the roof, eliminating the need to cut through ceilings and the roof.

Normally, a chase is built outside and against the exterior wall of a home. A hole is cut through the wall, and the

ZC20 is located in the bottom of the chase, with the front of the unit flush with the interior wall. Chases are

commonly veneered on the outside with brick, stone or wood to give the appearance of a conventional fireplace

flue. Occasionally, they are built inside and boxed in, similar to a stairwell. When making a chase installation, it is

important to read the chimney manufacturer’s instructions prior to building, as there are specific requirements for

bracing a free-standing flue and must be planned for. There are also occasions where offsets are used within a

chase to accommodate unusual building designs, or to locate the ZC20 further into a room.

FRAMING CONSTRUCTION AND INSTALLATION

Except as noted, the ZC20 can be installed almost anywhere you desire. There are, however, a few clearance and

framing restrictions that must be followed. See Figure 3 and 4 to make sure that these clearance restrictions are

met. It is much wiser to place your ZC20 correctly at the start of the installation than to be forced to relocate it after

much of the work is done.

You must ensure that the floor is of adequate strength to accept the load of this unit. If inadequate, the floor will

require additional support, such as bracing. NOTE: A wooden base constructed of plywood or 2”x4” boards is

required in order to get proper clearance above the extended hearth (millboard, rock, stone, etc.).

Good planning is essential for a satisfactory installation, therefore, at this point you should have decided where the

ZC20 is to be located and the route the chimney will follow to the roof—straight up, or chase. If you cannot decide

the best route, contact your Dealer for assistance with the planning.

25”

ADJACENT ROOM

25”

OF EXTERIOR CHASE

INTERIOR LOCATION

FIGURE 4

Above (Figure 4) are framing location examples with depth dimensions for some typical configurations. These are

finished measurements so install accordingly.

Position ZC20 for installation as follows:

1. Thoroughly clean the area where the unit will be placed. Remove any carpeting/padding from the area where

the ZC20 will be installed.

2. Lay out the location on the floor for ZC cabinet. (See Figure 4)

3. Layout for hearth extension preparation and removal of carpet and padding.

4. A sheet metal safety shield is placed 1 1/2” under the cabinet. It must extend out under the floor protector.

5. Now, you are ready to install the chimney system for the ZC20. If you are building an outside chase, follow

approved Chimney Manufacturer’s instructions. If you are penetrating a ceiling, install the chimney as

follows:

a. Drop a plumb line, locate, and mark point on ceiling directly over center of ZC20 chimney adapter

b. After locating the center of the hole, install the firestop spacer per chimney manufacturer’s instructions.

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6. Obtain the listed and approved chimney installation instructions and follow exactly.

a) Obtain the starter section of pipe and install on the ZC20 cabinet. It may be necessary to crimp the inside

of the starter pipe to ease installation into the ZC20 cabinet.

b) Obtain the two short sheet metal “ell” brackets and sheet metal screws provided with the ZC20 and secure

the starter section of pipe to the ZC20 cabinet.

Install pipe to cabinet by pushing

down over the starter section of pipe

on the ZC cabinet.

Maintain a 2” minimum

clearance

Top Standoffs

WARNING: Do not pack

required air spaces on top of cabinet

or around pipe starter section with

insulation or other materials.

CAUTION: Maintain a 3/4” air

space between the back and 1 1/2”

between the side walls and

combustible material.

Figure 5

c) Continue adding lengths of chimney until you are ready to penetrate another ceiling or the roof.

d) Now, plumb bob the center of the ceiling or roof above the chimney and install another firestop for

another ceiling penetration or follow pipe manufacturer’s instructions for attic and roof penetration.

e) Once the roof penetration is made, install the flashing.

f) Add applicable lengths of chimney, extending through the roof until the following conditions are met:

1. Chimney height is at least 12’ to 15’ maximum.

2. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above the highest point where it penetrates the roof.

3. The chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of the building within 10’ of the

chimney.

g) Install the chimney cap and storm collar.

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7. The ZC20 cabinet is now ready for framing as follows:

a) Frame the ZC20 using 2”x4” studs or local building code framing. Some minor framing restrictions are

required:

1. Adjacent side walls must be at least 16” from the outer edge of the ZC20 trim panel

2. The overall opening dimensions must be at least 37 15/16” wide and 34 5/8” high.

NOTE: Maintain 1 1/2” clearance at the side walls of the cabinet and combustible material.

b) 2”x4” framing above the unit must be turned flat. This allows proper clearance from framing to chimney

(2” minimum). (See Figure 6.)

ZC20/Model 20

TOPPER

Optional Fire Code

Sheet Rock And

Metal Fire Stop

STORM COLLAR

ROOF FLASHING

TRIPLE WALL PIPE

2”X 4” STUDDING

2 In.

Min.

USE FIRE CODE SHEET

ROCK

NBC METAL FIRE STOP

RADIATION SHIELD

NBC

Radiation

Shied

Ceiling

2” X 4” STUDDING

A SINGLE HEADER

MUST BE INSTALLED

ABOVE CABINET

15FT. MAX.

NOTE: Follow

building and fire

codes for each

individual state.

CHASE

ENCLOSE -

URE

34-5/8”

THESE MEASUREMENTS

ARE CRITICAL.

37-15/16”

17”

WARNING: Install the hearth protector

only as specified. The hearth extension must

extend a minimum of 17” in front of the fire-

place opening and must be 37 15/16” wide

minimum.

FIGURE 6

CHASE ENCLOSURE AND CORNER LOCATION FRAMING

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8. Next construct the hearth extension out of non-combustible inorganic building materials as follows:

a) The hearth extension must extend 17” in front of the rough framed opening on the ZC20.

b) The hearth extension width must be at least 37 15/16”.

c) The hearth extension must be made of brick 2” thick, a listed “Hearth Extension” or “Floor Protector”, or

a hearth extension made of non-combustible inorganic material with a K* factor of:

K = 2.5 BTU ((HR) (ft²) (^oF/in.))

ALTERNATE FLOOR PROTECTORS MATERIALS

With the floor protector or hearth extension material specified as one layer of 2” thick brick with a K* factor of

5.0, you may use alternate materials as long as the K* factor (s) is calculated as follows:

Formula: Required thickness = (K of alternate material/K of millboard) X (thickness of millboard)

Example: An alternate inorganic non-combustible millboard with a K of .9375 would require a thickness

as follows:

Required thickness = .9375.0^ox 2 inch

= 3/8 inch

K Factors of Alternate Materials:

Material

Ceroform 126

Limestone

Concrete

Sandstone

Marble

.21

8.0

13.0

18.0

Required Thickness

1/8”

3.2”

5.2”

7.2”

Hearth extension or floor protector thickness above four (4) inches is generally not acceptable due to cost, floor

load capacity, and look. The alternate we recommend is using Ceroform No. 126 millboard 1/8” thick minimum

and putting any type decorative brick or stone (any thickness) on top of it.

*The K* factor represents the thermal conductivity of a material and is the time rate of heat flow through a

homogeneous material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in the

direction perpendicular to a surface.

9. The next step is the electrical installation. NOTE: An electrician must wire the ZC20 into the home wiring

system using No. 15 AWG (with ground wiring) as minimum in accordance with local wiring codes.

CAUTION: Stove is plugged into cabinet receptacle.

A. Remove brass trim.

B. Remove top panel and right side panel.

C. Now an electrician must do the wiring.

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TOP FRONT TRIM PANEL

BRASS TRIM

RIGHT SIDE TRIM

PANEL

BLACK

WHITE

HEATER POWER CORD

GROUND

REAR COVER PLATE

RECEPTACLE BOX

FIGURE 7

POWER HOOK-UP

10. Now, finish the wall around the ZC20 using brick, rock, sheetrock, paneling, or any type finishing material.

CAUTION: Do not block any openings designed into the unit.

11. Install a mantel above the unit if desired. Note that a combustible mantel must be positioned at least 12” above

the top of the ZC20 cabinet.

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SECTION II

MOBILE HOME INSTALLATIONS

PARTS REQUIREMENTS

Listed NEW BUCK CORP.

Model

Part Description/Part #

ZC20

Zero clearance cabinet assembly with Model 20

fireplace installed

New Buck Firestop Radiation Shield # PA 6FRS20

UL Listed and Factory Approved Chimney Systems

Description

Simpson Dura Vent

Security

Selkirk Metal Bestos

Metal Fab

6” 2100^oHT Type “DP” Chimney

6” “ASHT” High Temp Chimney

6” Model SSII Type HT Chimney

6” 2100^oHT Chimney

CAUTION: Read through all of these instructions carefully. Follow approved Chimney Manufacturer’s

Installation exactly. Failure to install the Cabinet Fireplace, Stove and Chimney as described in the instructions

will void the manufacturer’s warranty and may have an effect on your Homeowner’s Insurance. A major cause of

chimney related fires is failure to maintain required clearances (air spaces) to combustible materials. It is of utmost

importance that these parts be installed only in accordance with these instructions.

The Zero-Clearance cabinet and the Model 20 (hereafter referred to as the ZC20) is designed for installation in a

family dwelling, where minimum clearance is desired.

INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS

The following precautions are mandatory for a safe installation:

A. Compliance with local building codes and regulations is mandatory.

B. Be careful not to damage unit in handling and unpacking component parts and accessories.

C. A UL Listed and Approved Chimney System is to be used and vented to the outside of the building. (See

chimney list above.)

D. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above the highest point where it penetrates the roof (3’ above a

flat roof or up to 2 1/2 pitch roof), and the chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of

the building within 10’ of the chimney. The minimum height is 12’. A 2” clearance must be maintained

between the chimney and any combustible materials at all points.

E. A rain cap must be used to terminate the chimney to prevent down-draft.

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F. DO NOT build a fire directly inside the ZC20. It is designed solely for housing the Model 20.

G. WARNING: Do not install in sleeping room.

H. CAUTION: The structural integrity of the mobile home floor, wall, and ceiling/roof must be maintained.

I. Do not connect this unit to a chimney serving another appliance.

FRAMING CONSTRUCTION AND INSTALLATION

Except as noted, the ZC20 can be installed almost anywhere you desire. There are, however, a few clearance and

framing restrictions that must be followed. See Figure 5 and 6 to make sure that these clearance restrictions are

met. It is much wiser to place your ZC20 correctly at the start of the installation than to be forced to relocate it after

much of the work is done.

You must ensure that the floor is of adequate strength to accept the load of this unit. If inadequate, the floor will

require additional support, such as bracing. NOTE: A wooden base constructed of plywood or 2”x4” boards is

required in order to get proper clearance above the extended hearth (millboard, rock, stone, etc.)

Where cabinet is to be placed, a 4 1/4” diameter hole with a 2 1/8” radius from center line must be cut through

floor. Outside air duct kit #PP 70075-01 is be installed. (See Figure 9.)

25”

CORNER

INTERIOR LOCATION

LOCATION

FIGURE 8

1. Thoroughly clean the area where the unit will be placed. Remove any carpeting/padding from the area where

the ZC20 will be installed.

2. Layout the location on the floor for ZC cabinet. NOTE: Maintain 3/4” clearance between the rear of the

cabinet and combustible material.

3. Layout for hearth extension preparation and removal of carpet and padding . Where cabinet is to be placed, a

4 1/4” diameter hole with a 2 1/8” radius from center line must be cut through floor. Outside air duct kit # PP

70075-01 is to be installed. (See Figure 9.)

4. Next, a sheet metal safety shield is placed 1 1/2” under the front of the cabinet. It must extend out under the

floor protector. Drop a plumb line, locate and mark point on ceiling directly over center of ZC20 chimney

adapter. After locating the center of hole, install firestop spacer per chimney manufacturer’s instructions.

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5. Obtain the Listed and Approved Chimney Installation instructions and follow exactly.

a) Obtain the starter section of pipe and install on the ZC20 cabinet. It my be necessary to crimp the inside of

the starter pipe to ease installation into the ZC20 cabinet.

b) Obtain the two short sheet metal “ell” brackets and sheet metal screws provided with the ZC20 and secure

the starter section of pipe to the ZC20 cabinet.

c) Add applicable lengths of chimney extending through the roof until the following conditions are met:

1. The chimney must extend a minimum of 3’ above the highest point where it penetrates the roof.

2. The chimney must extend a minimum of 2’ higher than any portion of the building within 10’ of the

chimney but not to exceed 15’ above the hearth.

d) Install the flashing, storm collar, and chimney cap as indicated in the manufacturer’s installation

instructions.

6. The ZC20 Cabinet is now ready for framing as follows:

a) Frame the ZC20 using 2”x4” studs or local building code framing. Some minor framing restrictions are

required:

1. Adjacent side walls must be at least 17” from the outer edge of the ZC20 trim panel.

2. The overall opening dimensions must be at least 37 15/16” wide and 34 5/8” high.

b) 2”x4” framing above the unit must be turned flat. This allows proper clearance from framing to chimney

(2” minimum). (See Figure 10.)

RAIN CAP

STORM COLLAR

STORM

COLLAR

2 ft.

3 ft. Typical

FLASHING

NEW BUCK

FIRE STOP

RADIATION

SHIELD

NEW BUCK

FIRE STOP

RADIATION

SHIELD

20 ft. Max.

(Typical)

OUTSIDE AIR

DUCT THROUGH

UNDERPINNING

OUTSIDE AIR DUCT

THROUGH FLOOR

WHEN MOBILE

HOME IS NOT UN-

DERPINNED

FIGURE 9

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CAUTION: Refer to chim-

ney manufactures instruc-

tions for assembly and disas-

sembly of chimney parts. Be

sure to follow chimney

instructions for proper clear-

ances to combustibles and

proper air spacing required.

Optional

Fire Code Sheet Rock

And Metal Fire Stop

TOPPER

STORM COLLAR

ROOF FLASHING

2 In.

Min.

TRIPLE WALL PIPE

2 “X 4” STUDDING

USE FIRE CODE SHEET ROCK

15FT.

MAX.

NBC METAL FIRE STOP RADIA-

TION SHIELD

NBC

2”X 4” STUDDING

RADIATION

SHIELD

A SINGLE HEADER MUST BE

INSTALLED ABOVE CABINET

Ceiling

NOTE: Follow

building and fire

codes for each indi-

vidual state.

Chase

Enclosure

34 5/8”

THESE MEASUREMENTS

ARE CRITICAL

37 15/16”

17”

WARNING: Install the hearth protec-

tor only as specified. The hearth exten-

sion must extend a minimum of 17” in

front of the fireplace opening and must

be 37 15/16” wide minimum.

FIGURE 10

CHASE ENCLOSURE AND CORNER LOCATION FRAMING

7. Next construct the hearth extension out of non-combustible inorganic building materials as follows:

a) The hearth extension must extend 17” in front of the rough framed opening on the ZC20.

b) The hearth extension width must be at least 37 15/16”.

c) The hearth extension must be made of brick 2” thick, a listed “Hearth Extension” or “Floor Protector”, or

a hearth extension made of non-combustible inorganic material with a K* factor of:

K = 2.5 BTU ((HR) (ft²) (^oF/in.))

ALTERNATE FLOOR PROTECTORS MATERIALS

With the floor protector or hearth extension material specified as one layer of 2” thick brick with a K* factor of

5.0, you may use alternate materials as long as the K* factor (s) is calculated as follows:

Formula: Required thickness = (K of alternate material/K of millboard) X (thickness of millboard)

Example: An alternate inorganic non-combustible millboard with a K of .9375 would require a thickness

as follows:

Required thickness = .9375.0^ox 2 inch

= 3/8 inch

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K Factors of Alternate Materials:

Material

Ceroform 126

Limestone

Concrete

Sandstone

Marble

.21

8.0

13.0

18.0

Required Thickness

1/8”

3.2”

5.2”

7.2”

Hearth extension or floor protector thickness above four (4) inches is generally not acceptable due to cost, floor

load capacity, and look. The alternate we recommend is using Ceroform No. 126 millboard 1/8” thick minimum

and putting any type decorative brick or stone (any thickness) on top of it.

*The K* factor represents the thermal conductivity of a material and is the time rate of heat flow through a

homogeneous material under steady-state conditions, through unit area, per unit temperature gradient in the

direction perpendicular to a surface.

9. The next step is the electrical installation. NOTE: An electrician must wire the ZC20 into the home wiring

system using No. 15 AWG (with ground wiring) as minimum in accordance with local wiring codes.

CAUTION: Stove is plugged into cabinet receptacle.

A. Remove brass trim.

B. Remove top panel and right side panel.

C. Now an electrician must do the wiring.

TOP FRONT TRIM PANEL

BRASS TRIM

RIGHT

SIDE TRIM

PANEL

BLACK

WHITE

GROUND

HEATER POWER CORD

REAR COVER PLATE

RECEPTACLE BOX

FIGURE 11

POWER HOOK-UP

9. Now, finish the wall around the ZC20 using brick, rock, sheetrock, paneling, or any type finishing material.

CAUTION: Do not block any openings designed into the unit.

10. Install a mantel above the unit if desired. Note that a combustible mantel must be positioned at least 12” above

the top of the ZC20 cabinet.

11. The ZC20 and Model 20 fireplace are now ready for use. Refer to the Model 20 owners manual for operation,

safety, and chimney maintenance. Refer to the back of this manual for ZC20 warranty registration information.

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CLEANING THE UNIT

A. The unit should be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper or steel wool, then repainted or touched up with high

temperature black paint.

B. If the unit is located in a moist or damp location, check thoroughly for signs of condensation during times

when the unit is not in use.

C. When the heating season is over, the unit can be cleaned out completely with a wire brush or cloth to help

eliminate ash and burned wood smell.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Use smoke detectors around the stove as well as in sleeping areas.

2. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for Class “A” fires near the stove.

3. Check with your insurance company to be sure your policy covers the installation and use of a wood burning

appliance.

4. Creosote-Formation and Need for Removal: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic

vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the

relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue

lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during the heating season

to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.

If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

5. Locate furniture and any other combustibles away from the stove.

6. Store firewood at a safe distance from the stove.

7. Disposal of Ashes: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of

ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials,

pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should

be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

8. Always exercise caution when using your fireplace. Be particularly careful when there are children around an

operating fireplace.

CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar liquids to

start or “freshen-up” a fire in the fireplace. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in use. All

fluids of this type give off highly volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE! Don’t take a chance with the

safety of your home and family.

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PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE/

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

CHIMNEY

A. The chimney should be cleaned as necessary to remove creosote, soot, leaves, birds’ nests, etc.

CREOSOTE-FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to

form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a

result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least once every two months. More frequent inspection

and cleaning may be necessary. Under certain conditions of use creosote build-up may occur rapidly.

Creosote is caused by low temperatures in the chimney, which is controlled by the operator of the stove.

B. A neglected chimney can eventually cause a draw restriction or can ignite and burn hot enough to cause

damage to the chimney.

C. For proper inspection the chimney should be cleaned.

CHIMNEY CLEANING:

1. Access-Chimneys must be installed so that access is provided for inspection and cleaning.

2. When to Clean-The chimney should be inspected at least once every two months during the heating season to

determine if creosote or soot has built up. Check spark arrestor screens every 2-4 weeks. If creosote or soot

has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of chimney fire.

3. How to Clean-Have your chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep if you have doubts about your

ability to clean it, using a plastic, wood, or steel brush. Do not use a brush that will scratch the stainless steel

liner of your chimney. Scrub the spark arrestor with a wire brush.

To remove the chimney cap for cleaning, unscrew the four screws that attach the cap’s support legs to the cap

base. The top cleanout cap can be removed once the screws are unscrewed. Remember to replace the screws

when you are through cleaning the chimney.

4. No Chemical Cleaners-Do not use chemical chimney cleaners. Their use does not eliminate the need for

mechanical cleaning and they may be highly corrosive.

5. In Case of Fire-If a flue fire occurs, close all appliance draft openings and call your Fire Department. Do not

use the chimney again until it is inspected for possible damage.

6. Chimney Protection-Painting. To increase chimney life, coat all exterior metal parts with high temperature

rust-proof paint. This is highly recommended, particularly in areas near the ocean. Wash the metal with a

vinegar and water solution before painting.

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NEW BUCK CORPORATION (NBC)

“LIMITED WARRANTY” FOR NBC RELATED PRODUCTS

If for any reason you are dissatisfied with the sug-

PLEASE READ THIS WARRANTY CAREFULLY

PRODUCTS COVERED

gested procedures, you may contact us in writing at:

NEW BUCK CORPORATION

Customer Service Department

P. O. Box 69

This warranty covers the new heating unit so long as it

is owned by the original purchaser, including optional

and standard accessories purchased at the same time,

subject to terms, limitations, and conditions herein set

out.

Spruce Pine, NC 28777

CONDITIONS AND EXCLUSIONS

PRODUCTS NOT COVERED

(A) Replacement of parts may be in the form of new

or fully reconditioned parts, at NBC’s option.

(B) There are no other warranties express or implied

including warranties of Merchantability, Fitness

for Purpose or Otherwise except those warranties

expressly stated herein.

This warranty does not cover the following:

Glass;

Refractory material such as refractory cement or

firebrick

Gaskets;

incidental, or consequential damages in

This Warranty will also not cover any damage and/or

failure caused by abuse or improper installation of the

Products Covered.

connection with the use of the product including

any cost or expense of providing substitute

equipment or service during periods of mal-

function or non-use. Some states do not allow the

exclusion of incidental or consequential

WARRANTY TIME PERIODS

(A) Period I

damages, so the above exclusion may not apply

to you.

For one (1) year from the date of purchase, NBC

will replace or repair, at its option, any part defective in

materials or workmanship. The costs of parts only are

included. The customer pays any labor or transportation

charges required.

(D) All warranty repairs under this warranty must be

performed by an authorized Buck Stove service

representative. Repairs or attempted repairs by

anyone other than an authorized service

representative are not covered under this

warranty. In addition, these unauthorized repairs

may result in additional malfunctions, the

correction of which is not covered by warranty.

Thereafter

(B) Period II

For the period after the first year from the date of

purchase and extending for five (5) years as long as the

related product is owned by the original purchaser,

NBC will repair or replace, at its option, any part

defective in materials or workmanship, with the

exception of: electrical motors, wiring, switches, and

components; optional and standard accessories; and all

parts not permanently attached to the heating unit.

Parts not permanently attached to the heating unit are

defined as those items designed to be removed from the

unit, including those removable with common hand

tools. The cost of parts only are included. The customer

pays any labor or transportation charges required.

OTHER RIGHTS

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and

you may also have other rights, which vary from state

to state.

OWNER REGISTRATION CARD

The attached Owner Registration Card must be

completed in its entirety and mailed within 30 days

from the date of purchase or from the date of

installation, if installed by a factory certified installer,

to New Buck Corporation, in order for warranty

coverage to begin.

PROCEDURE

PLEASE NOTE: The Owner Registration Card must

contain the Authorized Dealer Code Number and the

Certified Installer’s number (if applicable) for

warranty coverage to begin.

Should you feel that your heater is defective, you

should contact any NBC dealer for the name of your

nearest authorized heater service representative, who

will instruct you on the proper procedure, depending on

which Warranty Time Period (Period I or Period II)

applies.

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