AstroMaster Series Telescopes
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
● AstroMaster 70AZ # 21061 ●AstroMaster 90AZ # 21063 ● AstroMaster 114AZ # 31043
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Congratulations on your purchase of an AstroMaster Series telescope. The AstroMaster Series of telescopes come
in several different models and this manual covers three models mounted on the Alt-AZ Mount ((an altazimuth is
the simplest type of mount with two motions – altitude (up & down) and azimuth (side-to-side)))-- 70mm refractor,
90mm refractor, and 114mm Newtonian. The AstroMaster Series is made of the highest quality materials to ensure
stability and durability. All this adds up to a telescope that gives you a lifetime of pleasure with a minimal amount
of maintenance.
These telescopes were designed for the First Time Buyer offering exceptional value. The AstroMaster series
features a compact and portable design with ample optical performance to excite any newcomer to the world of
amateur astronomy. In addition, your AstroMaster telescope is ideal for terrestrial observations which will open
your eyes with superb high power viewing.
AstroMaster telescopes carry a two year limited warranty. For details see our website at www.celestron.com
Some of the many standard features of the AstroMaster include:
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All coated glass optical elements for clear, crisp images.
Smooth functioning, rigid alt-azimuth mount with a large pan handle with built-in clutch for easy targeting.
Preassembled steel leg tripod with 1.25” legs ensures stable platform.
Quick and easy no-tool set up.
CD-ROM “The Sky” Level 1 --- astronomy software which provides education about the sky and printable sky
maps.
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All models can be used terrestrially as well as astronomically with the standard accessories included.
Take time to read through this manual before embarking on your journey through the Universe. It may take a few
observing sessions to become familiar with your telescope, so you should keep this manual handy until you have
fully mastered your telescope’s operation. The manual gives detailed information regarding each step as well as
needed reference material and helpful hints guaranteed to make your observing experience as simple and pleasurable
as possible.
Your telescope is designed to give you years of fun and rewarding observations. However, there are a few things to
consider before using your telescope that will ensure your safety and protect your equipment.
Warning
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Never look directly at the sun with the naked eye or with a telescope (unless you have the proper
solar filter). Permanent and irreversible eye damage may result.
Never use your telescope to project an image of the sun onto any surface. Internal heat build-up can
damage the telescope and any accessories attached to it.
Never use an eyepiece solar filter or a Herschel wedge. Internal heat build-up inside the telescope can
cause these devices to crack or break, allowing unfiltered sunlight to pass through to the eye.
Do not leave the telescope unsupervised, either when children are present or adults who may not be
familiar with the correct operating procedures of your telescope.
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Figure 1-1 AstroMaster 90AZ Refractor
(AstroMaster 70AZ refractor similar)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Objective Lens
Telescope Optical Tube
Star Pointer Finderscope
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Knob
7.
8.
9.
Pan Handle
Accessory Tray
Tripod
10. Azimuth Lock
11. Alt-Az Mount
12. Dovetail Mounting Bracket
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Figure 1-2 AstroMaster 114 AZ Newtonian
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Star Pointer Finderscope
Eyepiece
Tube Ring
Telescope Optical Tube
Primary Mirror
Pan Handle
7.
8.
9.
Azimuth Lock
Accessory Tray
Tripod
10. Alt-Az Mount
11. Dovetail Mounting Bracket
12. Focus Knob
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This section covers the assembly instructions for your AstroMaster telescope. Your telescope should be set up
indoor the first time so that it is easy to identify the various parts and familiarize yourself with the correct assembly
procedure before attempting it outdoor.
Each AstroMaster comes in one box. The pieces in the box are – optical tube with attached sky pointer and tube
rings (114 AZ only), Alt-Az mount with attached pan handle, 10mm eyepiece – 1.25”, 20mm eyepiece – 1.25”
(erect image for 114AZ), erect image diagonal 1.25” (for 70AZ and 90 AZ), “The Sky” Level 1 CD-ROM.
Setting up the Tripod
1. Remove the tripod from the box (Figure 2-1). The tripod comes preassembled so that the set up is very
easy.
2. Stand the tripod upright and pull the tripod legs apart until each leg is fully extended and then push down
slightly on the tripod leg brace (Figure 2-2). The very top of the tripod is called the tripod head.
3. Next, we will install the tripod accessory tray (Figure 2-3) onto the tripod leg brace (center of Figure 2-2).
4. Insert the cut-out in the center of the tray (flat side of the tray facing down) to match the center of the
tripod leg brace and push down slightly (Figure 2-4). The ears of the tray should appear as in Figure 2-4
Figure 2-1
Figure 2-2
Figure 2-3
Figure 2-4
5. Rotate the tray until the ears are under the leg brace support of each leg and push slightly and they will lock
in place (Figure 2-5). The tripod is now completely assembled (Figure 2-6).
6. You can extend the tripod legs to the height you desire. At the lowest level the height is 24” (61cm) and
extends to 41” (104cm). You unlock the tripod leg lock knob at the bottom of each leg (Figure 2-7) and
pull the legs out to the height you want & then lock the knob securely. A fully extended the tripod looks
like the image in Figure 2-8.
7. The tripod will be the most rigid and stable at the lowest height.
Figure 2-5
Figure 2-6
Figure 2- 7
Figure 2-8
.
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Moving the Telescope Manually
The AstroMaster Alt-Az mount is easy to move wherever you want to point it. The up and down (altitude) is
controlled by the pan handle (Figure 2-10). The side-to-side (azimuth) is controlled by the azimuth lock
(Figure 2-9). The pan handle and the azimuth lock are both loosened by turning the handle and lock
counterclockwise. When loose you can find your objects easily and then lock the controls. To lock the controls
in place, turn them clockwise.
Figure 2-10
Figure 2-9
Attaching the Telescope Tube to the Mount
The telescope optical tube attaches to the mount via a dovetail slide bar mounting bracket at the top of the mount
(Figure 2-11). For the 114 AZ Newtonian, the mounting bar is the bracket which is attached to the tube rings. For
the 70AZ and 90AZ refractors the mounting bar is attached along the bottom of the telescope tube. Before you
attach the optical tube, make sure that the pan handle and azimuth lock are fully locked. Then put the
dovetail bracket in the horizontal position as shown in Figure 2-10. This will ensure that the mount does not move
suddenly while attaching the telescope optical tube. Also, remove the objective lens cap (refractor) or the front
opening cap (Newtonian). To mount the telescope tube:
1 Remove the protective paper covering the optical tube. You will have to remove the tube rings on the 114EQ
Newtonian before removing the paper.
2 Loosen the mounting knob and the mounting safety screw on the side of the dovetail mounting platform so they
do not protrude into the mounting platform – see Figure 2-18.
3. Slide the dovetail mounting bar into the recess on the top of the mounting platform (figure 2-17).
5 Tighten the mounting knob on the dovetail mounting platform to hold the telescope in place.
6 Hand tighten the mounting platform safety screw until the tip touches the side of the mounting bracket.
NOTE: Never loosen any of the knobs on the telescope tube or mount other than the R.A. and DEC knobs.
Figure 2-11
Figure 2-12 Mounting Knob & Safety Screw in the dovetail bracket.
Shown is the 90AZ telescope tube
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Installing the Diagonal & Eyepieces ( refractor)
The diagonal is a prism that diverts the light at a right angle to the light path of the
refractor. This allows you to observe in a position that is more comfortable than if you
looked straight through. This diagonal is an erect image model that corrects the image
to be right side up and oriented correctly left-to-right which is much easier to use for
terrestrial observing. Also, the diagonal can be rotated to any position which is most
favorable for you. To install the diagonal and eyepieces:
1. Insert the small barrel of the diagonal into the 1.25” eyepiece adapter of the
focus tube on the refractor – Figure 2-13. Make sure the two thumbscrews on the
eyepiece adapter do not protrude into the focuser tube before installation and the
plug up cap is removed from the eyepiece adapter.
2. Put the chrome barrel end of one of the eyepieces into the diagonal and tighten
the thumb screw. Again, when doing this make sure the thumb screw is not
protruding into the diagonal before inserting the eyepiece.
3. The eyepieces can be changed to other focal lengths by reversing the procedure
in step 2 above.
Figure 2-13
Installing the Eyepieces on the Newtonians
The eyepiece (or ocular) is an optical element that magnifies the image focused by
the telescope. Without the eyepiece it would be impossible to use the telescope
visually. Eyepieces are commonly referred to by focal length and barrel diameter.
The longer focal length (i.e., the larger the number) the lower the eyepiece
magnification (i.e., power). Generally, you will use low-to-moderate power when
viewing. For more information on how to determine power, see the section on
“Calculating Magnification”. The eyepiece fits directly into the focuser of the
Newtonians. To attach the eyepieces:
1. Make sure the thumbscrews are not protruding into the focuser tube. Then,
insert the chrome barrel of the eyepieces into the focus tube (remove the
plug up cap of the focuser first) and tighten the thumbscrews – see
Figure 2-14.
2. The 20mm eyepiece is called an erecting eyepiece since it corrects the
image so it is right side up and corrected left to right. This makes the
telescope useful for terrestrial viewing.
Figure 2-14
3. The eyepieces can be changed by reversing the procedure as described above.
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A telescope is an instrument that collects and focuses light. The nature of the optical design determines how the light is focused.
Some telescopes, known as refractors, use lenses, .and other telescopes, known as reflectors (Newtonians), use mirrors.
Developed in the early 1600s, the refractor is the oldest telescope design. It derives its name from the method it uses to focus
incoming light rays. The refractor uses a lens to bend or refract incoming light rays, hence the name (see Figure 3-1). Early
designs used single element lenses. However, the single lens acts like a prism and breaks light down into the colors of the
rainbow, a phenomenon known as chromatic aberration. To get around this problem, a two-element lens, known as an achromat,
was introduced. Each element has a different index of refraction allowing two different wavelengths of light to be focused at the
same point. Most two-element lenses, usually made of crown and flint glasses, are corrected for red and green light. Blue light
may still be focused at a slightly different point.
Figure 3-1
A Newtonian reflector uses a single concave mirror as its primary. Light enters the tube traveling to the mirror at the back end.
There light is bent forward in the tube to a single point, its focal point. Since putting your head in front of the telescope to look at
the image with an eyepiece would keep the reflector from working, a flat mirror called a diagonal intercepts the light and points
it out the side of the tube at right angles to the tube. The eyepiece is placed there for easy viewing.
Newtonian Reflector telescopes
replace heavy lenses with
mirrors to collect and focus the
light, providing much more
light-gathering power for the
money spent. Because the light
path is intercepted and reflected
out to the side, you can have
focal lengths up to 1000mm and
still enjoy a telescope that is
relatively compact and portable.
A Newtonian Reflector
telescope offers such impressive
light-gathering characteristics
you can take a serious interest in
deep space astronomy even on a
modest budget. Newtonian
Reflector telescopes do require
more care and maintenance
because the primary mirror is
exposed to air and dust.
However, this small drawback
does not hamper this type of
telescope’s popularity with
Figure 3-2
those who want an economical telescope that can still resolve faint, distant objects.
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Image Orientation
The image orientation changes depending on how the eyepiece is inserted into the telescope. When using a star
diagonal with refractors, the image is right-side-up, but reversed from left-to-right (i.e., mirror image). If inserting
the eyepiece directly into the focuser of a refractor (i.e., without the diagonal), the image is upside-down and
reversed from left-to-right (i.e., inverted). However, when using the AstroMaster refractor and the standard erect
image diagonal, the images is correctly oriented in every aspect.
Newtonian reflectors produce a right-side-up image but the image will appear rotated based on the location of the
eyepiece holder in relation to the ground. However, by using the erect image eyepiece supplied with the
AstroMaster Newtonians, the image is correctly oriented.
Image orientation as seen with the
unaided eye & using erecting devices
on refractors & Newtonians
Inverted image, normal with
Newtonians & as viewed with
eyepiece directly in a refractor
Reversed from left to right, as
viewed using a Star Diagonal on a
refractor
Figure 3-3
Focusing
To focus your refractor or Newtonian telescope, simply turn the focus knob located directly below the eyepiece
holder (see Figures 1-1 and 1-2). Turning the knob clockwise allows you to focus on an object that is farther than
the one you are currently observing. Turning the knob counterclockwise from you allows you to focus on an object
closer than the one you are currently observing.
Note: If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an
eyepiece attached to the telescope. However, when using a camera you should always wear corrective lenses to
ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all times.
Aligning the Finderscope
The Star Pointer is the quickest and easiest way to point your telescope exactly at a desired object in the sky. It's
like having a laser pointer that you can shine directly onto the night sky. The Star Pointer is a zero
magnification pointing tool that uses a coated glass window to superimpose the image of a small red dot onto
the night sky. While keeping both eyes open when looking through the Star Pointer, simply move your
telescope until the red dot, seen through the Star Pointer, merges with the object as seen with your unaided eye.
The red dot is produced by a light-emitting diode (LED); it is not a laser beam and will not damage the glass
window or your eye. The star pointer is powered by a long life 3-volt lithium battery (#CR1620) see Figure 3-4.
Like all finderscopes, the Star Pointer must be properly aligned with the main telescope before it can be used.
The alignment procedure is best done at night since the LED dot will be difficult to see during the day.
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On/Off
Switch
Battery Compartment
Figure 3-4
To align the Star Pointer finderscope:
Figure 3-5
1. To turn on the Star Pointer, turn the switch to the “on” position – see Figure 3-4.
2. Locate a bright star or planet and center it in a low power eyepiece in the main telescope.
3. With both eyes open, look through the glass window at the alignment star.
If the Star Pointer is perfectly aligned, you will see the red LED dot overlap the alignment star. If the Star Pointer is not
aligned, take notice of where the red dot is relative to the bright star.
4.Without moving the main telescope, turn the Star Pointer's two adjustment screws until the red dot is directly over the
alignment star. Experiment as to which way each screw moves the red dot.
5. The Star Pointer is now ready for use. Always turn the power off after you have found an object. This will extend
the life of both the battery and the LED.
Note: Your battery may be installed already. If not, open the battery compartment – see Figure 3-4 with a thin coin
or screwdriver. Put the battery in with the “+” sign facing out. Then put the battery compartment back on. If you
ever need to replace the battery, it is a 3-volt lithium type # CR 1620.
Note: The above description applies basically for astronomy. If your finderscope is aligned properly, you can use it for
terrestrial applications also. The finderscope acts like a sighting tube. The red dot may be difficult to see in the daytime but
the dot will let you align objects before looking through the main telescope optics and can be quite helpful.
Calculating Magnification
You can change the power of your telescope just by changing the eyepiece (ocular). To determine the
magnification of your telescope, simply divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece
used. In equation format, the formula looks like this:
Focal Length of Telescope (mm)
Magnification =
⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Focal Length of Eyepiece (mm)
Let’s say, for example, you are using the 20mm eyepiece that came with your telescope. To determine the
magnification you simply divide the focal length of your telescope (the AstroMaster 70AZ for this example has a
focal length of 900mm) by the focal length of the eyepiece, 20mm. Dividing 900 by 20 yields a magnification of 45
power.
Although the power is variable, each instrument under average skies has a limit to the highest useful magnification. The general
rule is that 60 power can be used for every inch of aperture. For example, the AstroMaster 70AZ is 2.8” inches in diameter.
Multiplying 2.8 by 60 gives a maximum useful magnification of 168 power. Although this is the maximum useful magnification,
most observing is done in the range of 20 to 35 power for every inch of aperture which is 56 to 98 times for the AstroMaster
70AZ telescope. You can determine the magnification for your telescope the same way.
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Determining Field of View
Determining the field of view is important if you want to get an idea of the angular size of the object you are
observing. To calculate the actual field of view, divide the apparent field of the eyepiece (supplied by the eyepiece
manufacturer) by the magnification. In equation format, the formula looks like this:
Apparent Field of Eyepiece
True Field = ⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯⎯
Magnification
As you can see, before determining the field of view, you must calculate the magnification. Using the example in
the previous section, we can determine the field of view using the same 20mm eyepiece that is supplied standard
with the AstroMaster 70AZ telescope. The 20mm eyepiece has an apparent field of view of 50°. Divide the 50° by
the magnification, which is 45 power. This yields an actual field of 1.1°.
To convert degrees to feet at 1,000 yards, which is more useful for terrestrial observing, simply multiply by 52.5.
Continuing with our example, multiply the angular field of 1.1° by 52.5. This produces a linear field width of 58
feet at a distance of one thousand yards.
General Observing Hints
When working with any optical instrument, there are a few things to remember to ensure you get the best possible
image.
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Never look through window glass. Glass found in household windows is optically imperfect, and as a
result, may vary in thickness from one part of a window to the next. This inconsistency can and will affect
the ability to focus your telescope. In most cases you will not be able to achieve a truly sharp image, while
in some cases, you may actually see a double image.
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Never look across or over objects that are producing heat waves. This includes asphalt parking lots on hot
summer days or building rooftops.
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Hazy skies, fog, and mist can also make it difficult to focus when viewing terrestrially. The amount of detail
seen under these conditions is greatly reduced.
If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an
eyepiece attached to the telescope. When using a camera, however, you should always wear corrective lenses
to ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all times.
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Up to this point, this manual covered the assembly and basic operation of your telescope. However, to understand
your telescope more thoroughly, you need to know a little about the night sky. This section deals with observational
astronomy in general and includes information on the night sky and polar alignment.
For telescopes with equatorial mounts, the users have setting circles and polar alignment methods to help them find
objects in the sky. With your altazimuth mount, you can use a method called “star hopping” which is described in
the “Celestial Observing Section” later in this manual. Good star maps are essential in helping you locate deep sky
objects and current monthly astronomy magazines will help you locate where the planets are.
The Celestial Coordinate System
To help find objects in the sky, astronomers use a celestial coordinate system that is similar to our geographical co-
ordinate system here on Earth. The celestial coordinate system has poles, lines of longitude and latitude, and an
equator. For the most part, these remain fixed against the background stars.
The celestial equator runs 360 degrees around the Earth and separates the northern celestial hemisphere from the
southern. Like the Earth's equator, it bears a reading of zero degrees. On Earth this would be latitude. However, in
the sky this is referred to as declination, or DEC for short. Lines of declination are named for their angular distance
above and below the celestial equator. The lines are broken down into degrees, minutes of arc, and seconds of arc.
Declination readings south of the equator carry a minus sign (-) in front of the coordinate and those north of the
celestial equator are either blank (i.e., no designation) or preceded by a plus sign (+).
The celestial equivalent of longitude is called Right Ascension, or R.A. for short. Like the Earth's lines of longitude,
they run from pole to pole and are evenly spaced 15 degrees apart. Although the longitude lines are separated by an
angular distance, they are also a measure of time. Each line of longitude is one hour apart from the next. Since the
Earth rotates once every 24 hours, there are 24 lines total. As a result, the R.A. coordinates are marked off in units
of time. It begins with an arbitrary point in the constellation of Pisces designated as 0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds.
All other points are designated by how far (i.e., how long) they lag behind this coordinate after it passes overhead
moving toward the west.
Figure 4-1
The celestial sphere seen from the outside showing R.A. and DEC
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Motion of the Stars
The daily motion of the Sun across the sky is familiar to even the most casual observer. This daily trek is not the
Sun moving as early astronomers thought, but the result of the Earth's rotation. The Earth's rotation also causes the
stars to do the same, scribing out a large circle as the Earth completes one rotation. The size of the circular path a
star follows depends on where it is in the sky. Stars near the celestial equator form the largest circles rising in the
east and setting in the west. Moving toward the north celestial pole, the point around which the stars in the northern
hemisphere appear to rotate, these circles become smaller. Stars in the mid-celestial latitudes rise in the northeast
and set in the northwest. Stars at high celestial latitudes are always above the horizon, and are said to be
circumpolar because they never rise and never set. You will never see the stars complete one circle because the
sunlight during the day washes out the starlight. However, part of this circular motion of stars in this region of the
sky can be seen by setting up a camera on a tripod and opening the shutter for a couple hours. The timed exposure
will reveal semicircles that revolve around the pole. (This description of stellar motions also applies to the southern
hemisphere except all stars south of the celestial equator move around the south celestial pole.)
Figure 4-2
All stars appear to rotate around the celestial poles. However, the appearance of this motion
varies depending on where you are looking in the sky. Near the north celestial pole the stars
scribe out recognizable circles centered on the pole (1). Stars near the celestial equator also
follow circular paths around the pole. But, the complete path is interrupted by the horizon.
These appear to rise in the east and set in the west (2). Looking toward the opposite pole,
starsurve or arc in the opposite direction scribing a circle around the opposite pole (3).
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With your telescope set up, you are ready to use it for observing. This section covers visual observing hints for both
solar system and deep sky objects as well as general observing conditions which will affect your ability to observe.
Observing the Moon
Often, it is tempting to look at the Moon when it is full. At this time, the
face we see is fully illuminated and its light can be overpowering. In
addition, little or no contrast can be seen during this phase.
One of the best times to observe the Moon is during its partial phases
(around the time of first or third quarter). Long shadows reveal a great
amount of detail on the lunar surface. At low power you will be able to
see most of the lunar disk at one time. Change to optional eyepieces for
higher power (magnification) to focus in on a smaller area.
Lunar Observing Hints
To increase contrast and bring out detail on the lunar surface, use optional filters. A yellow filter works well at improving
contrast while a neutral density or polarizing filter will reduce overall surface brightness and glare.
Observing the Planets
Other fascinating targets include the five naked eye planets. You can see
Venus go through its lunar-like phases. Mars can reveal a host of surface
detail and one, if not both, of its polar caps. You will be able to see the
cloud belts of Jupiter and the great Red Spot (if it is visible at the time
you are observing). In addition, you will also be able to see the moons of
Jupiter as they orbit the giant planet. Saturn, with its beautiful rings, is
easily visible at moderate power.
Planetary Observing Hints
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Remember that atmospheric conditions are usually the limiting factor
on how much planetary detail will be visible. So, avoid observing the
planets when they are low on the horizon or when they are directly over a source of radiating heat, such as a rooftop or
chimney. See the "Seeing Conditions" section later in this section.
•
To increase contrast and bring out detail on the planetary surface, try using Celestron eyepiece filters.
Observing the Sun
Although overlooked by many amateur astronomers, solar observation is both rewarding and fun. However,
because the Sun is so bright, special precautions must be taken when observing our star so as not to damage your
eyes or your telescope.
For safe solar viewing, use a solar filter that reduces the intensity of the Sun's light, making it safe to view. With a
filter you can see sunspots as they move across the solar disk and faculae, which are bright patches seen near the
Sun's edge.
•
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The best time to observe the Sun is in the early morning or late afternoon when the air is cooler.
To center the Sun without looking into the eyepiece, watch the shadow of the telescope tube until it forms a
circular shadow.
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Observing Deep Sky Objects
Deep-sky objects are simply those objects outside the boundaries of our solar system. They include star clusters,
planetary nebulae, diffuse nebulae, double stars and other galaxies outside our own Milky Way. Most deep-sky
objects have a large angular size. Therefore, low-to-moderate power is all you need to see them. Visually, they are
too faint to reveal any of the color seen in long exposure photographs. Instead, they appear black and white. And,
because of their low surface brightness, they should be observed from a dark-sky location. Light pollution around
large urban areas washes out most nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible, to observe. Light Pollution
Reduction filters help reduce the background sky brightness, thus increasing contrast.
Star Hopping
One convenient way to find deep-sky objects is by star hopping. Star hopping is done by using bright stars to
"guide" you to an object. For successful star hopping, it is helpful to know the field of view of you telescope. If
you’re using the standard 20mm eyepiece with the AstroMaster telescope, your field of view is approximately 1º. If
you know an object is 3º away from your present location, then you just need to move 3 fields of view. If you’re
using another eyepiece, then consult the section on determining field of view. Listed below are directions for
locating two popular objects.
The Andromeda Galaxy (Figure 5-1), also known as M31, is an easy target. To find M31:
1. Locate the constellation of Pegasus, a large square visible in the fall (in the eastern sky, moving toward the
point overhead) and winter months (overhead, moving toward the west).
2. Start at the star in the northeast corner—Alpha (α) Andromedae.
3. Move northeast approximately 7°. There you will find two stars of equal brightness—Delta (δ) and Pi (π)
Andromeda—about 3° apart.
4. Continue in the same direction another 8°. There you will find two stars—Beta (β) and Mu (μ) Andromedae—
also about 3° apart.
5. Move 3° northwest—the same distance between the two stars—to the Andromeda galaxy.
Figure 5-1
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Star hopping to the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) is a snap, since all the stars needed to do so are visible to the naked
eye.
Star hopping will take some getting used to and objects that don’t have stars near them that are visible to the naked
eye are challenging. One such object is M57 (Figure 5-2), the famed Ring Nebula. Here's how to find it:
1. Find the constellation of Lyra, a small parallelogram visible in the summer and fall months. Lyra is easy to pick
out because it contains the bright star Vega.
2. Start at the star Vega—Alpha (α) Lyrae—and move a few degrees southeast to find the parallelogram. The four
stars that make up this geometric shape are all similar in brightness, making them easy to see.
3. Locate the two southernmost stars that make up the parallelogram—Beta (β) and Gamma (γ) Lyra.
4. Point about halfway between these two stars.
5. Move about ½° toward Beta (β) Lyra, while remaining on a line connecting the two stars.
6. Look through the telescope and the Ring Nebula should be in your field of view. The Ring Nebula’s angular
size is quite small and difficult to see.
7. Because the Ring Nebula is rather faint, you may need to use “averted vision” to see it. “Averted vision” is a
technique of looking slightly away from the object you’re observing. So, if you are observing the Ring Nebula,
center it in your field of view and then look off toward the side. This causes light from the object viewed to fall
on the black and white sensitive rods of your eyes, rather than your eyes color sensitive cones. (Remember that
when observing faint objects, it’s important to try to observe from a dark location, away from street and city
lights. The average eye takes about 20 minutes to fully adapt to the darkness. So always use a red-filtered
flashlight to preserve your dark-adapted night vision).
These two examples should give you an idea of how to star hop to deep-sky objects. To use this method
on other objects, consult a star atlas, then star hop to the object of your choice using “naked eye” stars.
Figure 5-2
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Seeing Conditions
Viewing conditions affect what you can see through your telescope during an observing session. Conditions include
transparency, sky illumination, and seeing. Understanding viewing conditions and the effect they have on observing
will help you get the most out of your telescope.
Transparency
Transparency is the clarity of the atmosphere which is affected by clouds, moisture, and other airborne particles.
Thick cumulus clouds are completely opaque while cirrus can be thin, allowing the light from the brightest stars
through. Hazy skies absorb more light than clear skies making fainter objects harder to see and reducing contrast on
brighter objects. Aerosols ejected into the upper atmosphere from volcanic eruptions also affect transparency. Ideal
conditions are when the night sky is inky black.
Sky Illumination
General sky brightening caused by the Moon, aurorae, natural airglow, and light pollution greatly affect
transparency. While not a problem for the brighter stars and planets, bright skies reduce the contrast of extended
nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible to see. To maximize your observing, limit deep sky viewing to
moonless nights far from the light polluted skies found around major urban areas. LPR filters enhance deep sky
viewing from light polluted areas by blocking unwanted light while transmitting light from certain deep sky objects.
You can, on the other hand, observe planets and stars from light polluted areas or when the Moon is out.
Seeing
Seeing conditions refers to the stability of the atmosphere and directly affects the amount of fine detail seen in
extended objects. The air in our atmosphere acts as a lens which bends and distorts incoming light rays. The
amount of bending depends on air density. Varying temperature layers have different densities and, therefore, bend
light differently. Light rays from the same object arrive slightly displaced creating an imperfect or smeared image.
These atmospheric disturbances vary from time-to-time and place-to-place. The size of the air parcels compared to
your aperture determines the "seeing" quality. Under good seeing conditions, fine detail is visible on the brighter
planets like Jupiter and Mars, and stars are pinpoint images. Under poor seeing conditions, images are blurred and
stars appear as blobs.
The conditions described here apply to both visual and photographic observations.
Figure 5-3
Seeing conditions directly affect image quality. These drawings represent a point source
(i.e., star) under bad seeing conditions (left) to excellent conditions (right). Most often, seeing
conditions produce images that lie somewhere between these two extremes.
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The AstroMaster series of telescopes was designed for visual observing. After looking at the night sky for a while
you may want to try your hand at photography of it. There are several forms of photography possible with your
telescope for celestial as well as terrestrial pursuits. Below is just a very brief discussion of some of the methods of
photography available and suggest you search out various books for detailed information on the subject matter.
As a minimum you will need a digital camera or a 35mm SLR camera. Attach your camera to the telescope with:
•
Digital camera – you will need the Universal Digital Camera Adapter (# 93626). The adapter allows the
camera to be mounted rigidly for terrestrial as well as prime focus astrophotography.
•
35mm SLR camera – you will need to remove your lens from the camera and attach a T-Ring for your
specific camera brand. Then, you will need a T-Adapter (# 93625) to attach on one end to the T-Ring and
the other end to the telescope focus tube. Your telescope is now the camera lens.
Short Exposure Prime Focus Photography
Short exposure prime focus photography is the best way to begin imaging celestial objects. It is done by attaching your camera
to the telescope as described in the paragraph above. A couple of points to keep in mind:
•
•
Polar align the telescope and start the optional motor drive for tracking.
You can image the Moon as well as the brighter planets. You will have to experiment with various settings and
exposure times. Much information can be obtained from your camera instruction manual which can supplement what
you can find in detailed books on the subject matter.
•
Do your photography from a dark sky observing site if possible.
Piggyback Photography
Only for the 114EQ Newtonian telescope, piggyback photography is done with a
camera and its normal lens riding on top of the telescope. Through this method
you can capture entire constellations and record large scale nebulae. You attach
your camera to the piggyback adapter screw (Figure 6-1) located on the top of the
tube mounting ring (your camera will have a threaded hole on the bottom to fit this
screw). You will need to polar align the telescope and start the optional motor
drive for tracking.
Figure 6-1
Planetary & Lunar Photography with Special Imagers
During the last few years a new technology has evolved which makes taking superb images of the planets and moon relatively
easy and the results are truly amazing. Celestron offers the NexImage (# 93712) which is a special camera and included is
software for image processing. You can capture planetary images your first night out which rivals what professionals were doing
with large telescopes just a few short years ago.
CCD Imaging for Deep Sky Objects
Special cameras have been developed for taking images of deep sky images. These have evolved over the last several years to
become much more economical and amateurs can take fantastic images. Several books have been written on how to get the best
images possible. The technology continues to evolve with better and easier to use products on the market.
Terrestrial Photography
Your telescope makes an excellent telephoto lens for terrestrial (land) photography. You can take images of various scenic
views, wildlife, nature, and just about anything. You will have to experiment with focusing, speeds, etc. to get the best image
desired. You can adapt your camera per the instructions at the top of this page.
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While your telescope requires little maintenance, there are a few things to remember that will ensure your telescope performs at
its best.
Care and Cleaning of the Optics
Occasionally, dust and/or moisture may build up on the objective lens or primary mirror depending on which type of telescope
you have. Special care should be taken when cleaning any instrument so as not to damage the optics.
If dust has built up on the optics, remove it with a brush (made of camel’s hair) or a can of pressurized air. Spray at an angle to
the glass surface for approximately two to four seconds. Then, use an optical cleaning solution and white tissue paper to remove
any remaining debris. Apply the solution to the tissue and then apply the tissue paper to the optics. Low pressure strokes should
go from the center of the lens (or mirror) to the outer portion. Do NOT rub in circles!
You can use a commercially made lens cleaner or mix your own. A good cleaning solution is isopropyl alcohol mixed with
distilled water. The solution should be 60% isopropyl alcohol and 40% distilled water. Or, liquid dish soap diluted with water (a
couple of drops per one quart of water) can be used.
Occasionally, you may experience dew build-up on the optics of your telescope during an observing session. If you want to
continue observing, the dew must be removed, either with a hair dryer (on low setting) or by pointing the telescope at the ground
until the dew has evaporated.
If moisture condenses on the inside of the optics, remove the accessories from the telescope. Place the telescope in a dust-free
environment and point it down. This will remove the moisture from the telescope tube.
To minimize the need to clean your telescope, replace all lens covers once you have finished using it. Since the cells are NOT
sealed, the covers should be placed over the openings when not in use. This will prevent contaminants from entering the optical
tube.
Internal adjustments and cleaning should be done only by the Celestron repair department. If your telescope is in need of internal
cleaning, please call the factory for a return authorization number and price quote.
Collimation of a Newtonian
The optical performance of most Newtonian reflecting telescopes can be optimized by re-collimating (aligning) the telescope's
optics, as needed. To collimate the telescope simply means to bring its optical elements into balance. Poor collimation will
result in optical aberrations and distortions.
Before collimating your telescope, take time to familiarize yourself with all its components. The primary mirror is the large
mirror at the back end of the telescope tube. This mirror is adjusted by loosening and tightening the three screws, placed 120
degrees apart, at the end of the telescope tube. The secondary mirror (the small, elliptical mirror under the focuser, in the front of
the tube) also has three adjustment screws (you will need optional tools (described below) to perform collimation. To determine
if your telescope needs collimation first point your telescope toward a bright wall or blue sky outside.
Aigning the Secondary Mirror
The following describes the procedure for daytime collimation of your telescope using the optional Newtonian Collimation Tool
(#94183) offered by Celestron. To collimate the telescope without the Collimation Tool, read the following section on night time
star collimation. For very precise collimation, the optional Collimation Eyepiece 1 ¼” (# 94182) is offered.
If you have an eyepiece in the focuser, remove it. Rack the focuser tube in completely, using the focusing knobs, until its silver
tube is no longer visible. You will be looking through the focuser at a reflection of the secondary mirror, projected from the
primary mirror. During this step, ignore the silhouetted reflection from the primary mirror. Insert the collimating cap into the
focuser and look through it. With the focus pulled in all the way, you should be able to see the entire primary mirror reflected in
the secondary mirror. If the primary mirror is not centered in the secondary mirror, adjust the secondary mirror screws by
alternately tightening and loosening them until the periphery of the primary mirror is centered in your view. DO NOT loosen or
tighten the center screw in the secondary mirror support, because it maintains proper mirror position.
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Aligning the Primary Mirror
Now adjust the primary mirror screws to re-center the reflection of the small secondary mirror, so it’s silhouetted
against the view of the primary. As you look into the focuser, silhouettes of the mirrors should look concentric.
Repeat steps one and two until you have achieved this.
Remove the collimating cap and look into the focuser, where you should see the reflection of your eye in the
secondary mirror.
Figure 7-1
Night Time Star Collimating
After successfully completing daytime collimation, night time star collimation can be done by closely
adjusting the primary mirror while the telescope tube is on its mount and pointing at a bright star. The
telescope should be set up at night and a star's image should be studied at medium to high power (30-60
power per inch of aperture). If a non-symmetrical focus pattern is present, then it may be possible to
correct this by re-collimating only the primary mirror.
Procedure (Please read this section completely before beginning):
To star collimate in the Northern Hemisphere, point at a stationary star like the North Star (Polaris). It can
be found in the north sky, at a distance above the horizon equal to your latitude. It’s also the end star in the
handle of the Little Dipper. Polaris is not the brightest star in the sky and may even appear dim, depending
upon your sky conditions.
Prior to re-collimating the primary mirror, locate the collimation screws on the rear of the telescope tube.
The rear cell (shown in Figure 7-1) has three large thumbscrews which are used for collimation and three
small thumbscrews which are used to lock the mirror in place. The collimation screws tilt the primary
mirror. You will start by loosening the small locking screws a few turns each. Normally, motions on the
order of an 1/8 turn will make a difference, with approximately a 1/2 to 3/4 turn being the maximum required
for the large collimation screws. Turn one collimation screw at a time and with a collimation tool or
eyepiece see how the collimation is affected (see the following paragraph below). It will take some
experimenting but you will eventually get the centering you desire.
It is best to use the optional collimation tool or collimating eyepiece. Look into the focuser and notice if
the secondary reflection has moved closer to the center of the primary mirror.
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With Polaris or a bright star centered within the field of view, focus with either the standard ocular or your
highest power ocular, i.e. the shortest focal length in mm, such as a 6mm or 4mm. Another option is to use
a longer focal length ocular with a Barlow lens. When a star is in focus it should look like a sharp pinpoint
of light. If, when focusing on the star, it is irregular in shape or appears to have a flare of light at its edge,
this means your mirrors aren’t in alignment. If you notice the appearance of a flare of light from the star
that remains stable in location, just as you go in and out of exact focus, then re-collimation will help
sharpen the image.
When satisfied with the collimation, tighten the small locking screws
Fig 7-2 Even though the star pattern appears the same on both sides of focus, they are asymmetric. The dark
obstruction is skewed off to the left side of the diffraction pattern indicating poor collimation.
Take note of the direction the light appears to flare. For example, if it appears to flare toward the three
o'clock position in the field of view, then you must move whichever screw or combination of collimation
screws necessary to move the star’s image toward the direction of the flaring. In this example, you would
want to move the image of the star in your eyepiece, by adjusting the collimation screws, toward the three
o'clock position in the field of view. It may only be necessary to adjust a screw enough to move the star’s
image from the center of the field of view to about halfway, or less, toward the field's edge (when using a
high power ocular).
Collimation adjustments are best made while viewing the star's position in the field of
view and turning the adjustment screws simultaneously. This way, you can see exactly
which way the movement occurs. It may be helpful to have two people working
together: one viewing and instructing which screws to turn and by how much, and the
other performing the adjustments.
IMPORTANT: After making the first, or each adjustment, it is necessary to re-aim the
telescope tube to re-center the star again in the center of the field of view. The star image
can then be judged for symmetry by going just inside and outside of exact focus and
noting the star's pattern. Improvement should be seen if the proper adjustments are
Figure 7-3
A collimated telescope
made. Since three screws are present, it may be necessary to move at least two
to achieve the necessary mirror movement.
should appear as a
symmetrical ring pattern
similar to the diffraction
disk seen here.
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You will find that additional accessories for your AstroMaster telescope will enhance your viewing
pleasure and expand the usefulness of your telescope. This is just a short listing of various accessories with
a brief description. Visit the Celestron website or the Celestron Accessory Catalog for complete
descriptions and all accessories available.
Sky Maps (# 93722) – Celestron Sky Maps are the ideal teaching guide for learning
the night sky. Even if you already know your way around the major constellations,
these maps can help you locate all kinds of fascinating objects.
Omni Plossl Eyepieces – These eyepieces are economically
priced and offer razor sharp views across the entire field. They are a 4-element lens
design and have the following focal lengths: 4mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12.5mm, 15mm, 20mm,
25mm, 32mm, and 40mm – all in 1.25” barrels.
Omni Barlow Lens ( 93326)– Used with any eyepiece, it doubles the magnification of that eyepiece. A
Barlow lens is a negative lens that increases the focal length of a telescope. The 2x Omni is a 1.25”
barrel, is under 3” (76mm) long, and weights only 4oz. (113gr.).
Moon Filter (# 94119-A) – This is an economical 1.25” eyepiece filter for reducing the brightness of the
moon and improving contrast, so greater detail can be observed on the lunar surface.
UHC/LPR Filter 1.25” (# 94123) – This filter is designed to enhance your views of
deep sky astronomical objects when viewed from urban areas. It selectively reduces
the transmission of certain wavelengths of light, specifically those produced by
artificial lights.
Flashlight, Night Vision (# 93588) – The Celestron flashlight uses two red LED’s to preserve night vision
better than red filters or other devices. Brightness is adjustable. Operates on a single 9-volt included
battery.
Collimation Tool ( # 94183) – Collimating your Newtonian telescope is easily accomplished with this
handy accessory which includes detailed instructions.
Collimation Eyepiece – 1.25” (# 94182) – The collimation eyepiece is ideal for precise collimation of
Newtonian telescopes.
Digital Camera Adapter – Universal # 93626) – A universal mounting platform that
allows you to do afocal photography (photography through the eyepiece of a telescope)
using 1.25” eyepieces with your digital camera.
T-Adapter – Universal 1.25” (# 93625) – This adapter fits the 1.25” focuser of your telescope. It allows
you to attach your 35mm SLR camera for terrestrial as well as lunar and planetary photography.
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AstroMaster
Specifications
21061
AM 70 AZ
21063
AM 90 AZ
31043
AM 114 AZ
Optical Design
Aperture
Refractor
Refractor
Newtonian
70mm (2.8") 90mm (3.5") 114mm (4.5")
Focal Length
Focal Ratio
900mm
f/13
1000mm
f/11
1000mm
f/9
Secondary Mirror Obstruction -- Dia. - Area n/a
n/a
31% - 10%
Optical Coatings
Finderscope
Diagonal 1.25"
Eyepieces 1.25"
Apparent FOV -- 20mm @ 50°
Fully coated Multi-coated Fully coated
Star Pointer Star Pointer Star Pointer
Erect Image Erect Image n/a
20mm (45x) 20mm (50x) 20mm Erect
Image (50x)
-- 10mm @ 40°
10mm (90x) 10mm(100x) 10mm (100x)
Angular Field of View w/standard eyepiece 1.1°
Linear FOV w/standard eyepiece -
1.0°
1.0°
ft/1000yds
58
53
53
Mount
Altazimuth
yes
yes
Altazimuth
yes
yes
Altazimuth
yes
yes
Pan Handle Control for Altitude
Azimuth Lock
Tripod Leg Diameter 1.25"
CD-ROM "The Sky" Level 1
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
Highest Useful Magnification
Limiting Stellar Magnitude
Resolution -- Raleigh (arc seconds)
Resolution -- Dawes Limit " "
Light Gathering Power
165x
11.7
1.98
1.66
100x
213x
12.3
1.54
1.29
165x
269x
12.8
1.21
1.02
265x
Optical Tube Length
Telescope Weight
36" (91cm)
18 # (8.2kg) 20 # (9kg)
36" (91cm)
20" (51cm)
17 # (7.7kg)
Note: Specifications are subject to change
without notice or obligation
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Celestron
2835 Columbia Street
Torrance, CA 90503 U.S.A.
Tel. (310) 328-9560
Fax. (310) 212-5835
Copyright 2007 Celestron
All rights reserved.
(Products or instructions may change
without notice or obligation.)
Item # 21061-INST
Printed in China
$10.00
06-07
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