New Transducers Network Router B258 User Manual

OWNER’S GUIDE  
& INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS  
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.  
Part No.________________Date___________Frequency_________kHz  
Thru-Hull, Depth with Stem  
Transducer  
Models: B45, B258, B260, B265LH, B265LM, B271W  
SS258, SS260, SS270W, SS505  
U.S. Patent No. 7,369,458. UK Patent No. 2 414 077. U.S. Patent Pending  
High-Performance  
Fairing  
B45  
Standard  
Fairing  
Follow the precautions below for optimal  
product performance and to reduce the risk of  
property damage, personal injury, and/or death.  
Identify Your Model  
The model name is printed on the cable tag.  
WARNING: A High-Performance Fairing must be  
installed following the installation instructions that  
accompany the fairing. A High-Performance Fairing  
requires an anti-rotation bolt to keep the fairing from  
turning while the boat is underway.  
Tools & Materials  
Safety goggles  
Dust mask  
Electric drill  
Drill bits and hole saws:  
Pilot hole  
WARNING: Always wear safety goggles and a dust  
mask when installing.  
3mm or 1/8"  
WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the  
boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat  
unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small  
leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.  
B45, SS505  
22mm or 7/8"  
30mm or 1-3/16"  
33mm or 1-5/16"  
B258, B271W, SS258  
B260, B265LH/LM, SS260, SS270W  
Sandpaper  
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)  
File (installation in a metal hull)  
Angle finder (installation with a fairing)  
Band saw (installation with a fairing)  
Rasp or power tool (installation with a fairing)  
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)  
Slip-joint pliers  
CAUTION: CHIRP transducer—Always operate the  
transducer in water. Operating in air will allow the  
transducer to overheat resulting in failure.  
CAUTION: Bronze transducer—Never mount in a  
metal hull, because electrolytic corrosion will occur.  
CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull  
requires using a Fairing Kit to isolate the stainless  
steel transducer from the metal hull. Failure to do so  
will cause electrolytic corrosion.  
Grommet(s) (some installations)  
Cable ties  
Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)  
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull: (see page 4)  
Drill bits and hole saws for hull interior:  
CAUTION: Never install a metal transducer on a  
vessel with a positive ground system.  
B45, SS505  
B258, B271W, SS258  
B260, B265LH/LM, SS260, SS270W  
Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy  
35mm or 1-3/8"  
40mm, 41mm, or 1-5/8"  
42mm or 1-5/8"  
CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by  
the cable as this may sever internal connections.  
CAUTION: Never strike the transducer.  
CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaners, fuel, sealant,  
paint and other products may contain solvents that can  
damage plastic parts, especially the transducer’s face.  
About Fairings  
Most vessels have some deadrise angle at the mounting location. If  
the transducer is mounted directly to the hull, the sound beam will  
be tilted to the side at the same angle as the deadrise. A fairing is  
strongly recommended if the deadrise angle exceeds 10°. Made of  
a high-impact polymer with an integrated cutting guide, an Airmar  
fairing is safer and easier to cut with a band saw and shape with  
hand tools than custom fairings.  
IMPORTANT: Read the instructions completely  
before proceeding with the installation. These  
instructions supersede any other instructions in your  
instrument manual if they differ.  
• Orients the sound beam straight down by mounting the  
transducer parallel to the water surface.  
Applications  
• Mounts the transducer deeper in the water for clean flow over  
the transducer’s face.  
Bronze transducer recommended for fiberglass or wood hull only.  
Airmar High-Performance Fairing has a long streamlined  
shape, directing water around the transducer to minimize drag.  
Performance is excellent above 15kn (18MPH). (To order see  
“Replacement Parts” on page 4.)  
Stainless steel transducer compatible with all hull materials.  
Recommended for aluminum hulls to prevent electrolytic corrosion  
provided the stainless steel transducer is isolated from the metal hull.  
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B45  
B258, B271W, SS258  
(arrow toward bow)  
(pointed end toward bow)  
band saw  
table  
BOW  
cutting  
guide  
Figure 4. Standard Fairing orientation  
Copyright © 2005- 2011 Airmar Technology Corp.  
deadrise  
angle  
forward toward the bow. The long side must be parallel to the  
fence  
centerline of the boat (see Figure 4).  
arrow/pointed end  
for installation  
on starboard  
Stainless steel transducer in a metal hull—Be sure the  
isolation sleeve is between the transducer stem and the hull (see  
Figure 2). However, the top of the isolation sleeve must be below  
the top of the hull nut or the backing block to prevent the sleeving  
from interfering with tightening the hull nut.  
side of the hull  
Figure 3. Cutting a Standard Fairing  
Copyright © 2005 - 2010 Airmar Technology Corp.  
2. From inside the hull, slide the backing block (if installing with a  
fairing) and the hull nut onto the cable. Seat the backing block  
against the hull, being sure the arrow/pointed end faces  
forward toward the bow. Screw the hull nut in place and tighten  
it with slip-joint pliers (see Figure 2 or 5).  
2. Tilt the band saw table to the measured angle and secure the  
cutting fence (see Figure 3).  
3. Place the fairing on the table, so the cutting guide rests against  
the fence. The arrow/pointed end will be pointing toward you for  
installation on the starboard side of the boat or away from you  
for installation on the port side (see Figure 4).  
Cored fiberglass hull—Do not over-tighten, crushing the hull.  
Wood hull—Allow for the wood to swell.  
4. Adjust the cutting fence, so the fairing will be cut in about two  
equal parts (see Figure 3). The section that will become the  
fairing must be between 6–12mm (1/4–1/2") at its thinnest  
dimension (see Figure 2).  
3. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull/  
fairing to ensure smooth water flow under the transducer.  
5. Recheck steps 1 through 4. Then cut the fairing.  
Cable Routing & Connecting  
6. Shape the fairing to the hull as precisely as possible with a rasp  
or power tool.  
CAUTION: If the sensor came with a connector, do not remove it  
to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and spliced, use  
Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and follow the  
instructions supplied. Removing the waterproof connector or  
cutting the cable, except when using a water-tight junction box,  
will void the sensor warranty.  
7. Use the remaining section of the fairing with the cutting guide  
for the backing block.  
Bedding  
CAUTION: Be sure all surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.  
1. Route the cable to the instrument being careful not to tear the  
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other  
parts of the boat. Use grommets to prevent chafing. To reduce  
electrical interference, separate the transducer cable from other  
electrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and  
secure it in place with cable ties to prevent damage.  
1. Remove the hull nut (see Figure 5).  
2. Thread the transducer cable through the fairing (if used).  
3. Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant to the surface  
of the transducer that will contact the hull/fairing and up the stem.  
The sealant must extend 6mm (1/4") higher than the combined  
thickness of the hull, fairing and backing block (if used), and the  
hull nut. This will ensure there is marine sealant in the threads to  
seal the hull and hold the hull nut securely in place.  
2. Refer to the instrument owner’s manual to connect the  
transducer to the instrument.  
Stainless steel transducer/stem in a metal hull—Slide the  
isolation sleeve over the bedded transducer stem as far down as  
possible (see Figure 2). Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of the  
marine sealant to the outside of the sleeving.  
cable  
BOW ►  
stem  
4. Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant to the  
following surfaces (see Figure 5):  
hull nut  
• Fairing that will contact the hull  
• Backing block that will contact the hull interior  
• Hull nut that will contact the hull/backing block  
backing  
block  
hull  
5. Standard Fairing—Seat the transducer firmly in/against the  
fairing with a pushing twisting motion. Be sure the button on the  
fairing mates with the recess in the transducer housing.  
fairing  
Installing  
transducer  
marine  
1. From outside the hull, thread the cable through the mounting  
hole. Then push the stem of the transducer through the hole  
using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess sealant. Take  
care to align the transducer with the blunt/button end facing  
sealant  
Figure 5. Bedding and installing (B258 with Std. Fairing shown)  
Copyright © 2005, 2007 Airmar Technology Corp.  
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5. Coat a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter with wax  
and tape it in place. Fill the gap between the cylinder and hull  
with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set, remove the cylinder.  
Checking for Leaks  
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around  
the transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may not be  
readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for more than  
3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small leak, there may  
be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24 hours. If a leak  
is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing” immediately (see  
page 3).  
6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to  
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is  
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild  
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.  
7. Proceed with “Cutting the Standard Fairing” on page 2.  
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull  
Anti-fouling Paint  
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The  
core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be  
reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut, allowing  
the transducer to become loose.  
Surfaces exposed to salt water must be coated with anti-fouling  
paint. Use water-based anti-fouling paint only. Never use ketone-  
based paint since ketones can attack many plastics possibly  
damaging the transducer. Reapply anti-fouling paint every 6  
months or at the beginning of each boating season.  
CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into  
the core.  
Maintenance, Parts & Replacement  
Cleaning  
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s  
surface reducing its performance within weeks. Clean the surface  
with a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent  
taking care to avoid making scratches. If the fouling is severe,  
lightly wet sand with fine grade wet/dry paper.  
1. Drill a 3mm or 1/8" pilot hole perpendicular to the waterline from  
inside the hull (see Figure 6). If there is a rib, strut, or other hull  
irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from the  
outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location, drill a second  
hole in a better location. Apply masking tape to the outside of the  
hull over the incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)  
2. Using the appropriate size drill bit, cut a hole from outside the  
hull through the outer skin only. Be sure to hold the drill plumb,  
so the hole will be perpendicular to the water surface.  
Replacement Parts  
The information needed to order a replacement transducer is  
printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When ordering,  
specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For  
convenient reference, record this information on the top of page 1.  
3. The optimal interior hole diameter is affected by the hull’s  
thickness and deadrise angle. It must be large enough in  
diameter to allow the core to be completely sealed.  
Using the appropriate size drill bit for the hull interior, cut through  
the inner skin and most of the core from inside the hull keeping  
the drill perpendicular to the hull. The core material can be very  
soft. Apply only light pressure to the drill bit after cutting through  
the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.  
Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replaced immediately.  
Model  
B45  
Hull Nut  
Fairing Type  
Standard  
Fairing Part #  
33-351-01  
02-031-3  
High-Performance 33-509-01  
02-222-03 Standard 33-226-01  
4. Remove the plug of core material so the inside of the outer skin  
and the inner core of the hull is fully exposed. Sand and clean  
the inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.  
B258, B271W  
High-Performance 33-523-01  
High-Performance 33-391-01  
High-Performance 33-391-01  
B260  
02-036-2  
02-036-2  
B265LH/LM  
SS258  
dimension equal to  
the thickness of the  
02-539-01 Standard  
33-226-01  
inner skin  
core  
hull’s outer skin to  
ensure adequate  
clearance  
High-Performance 33-523-01  
02-036-03 High-Performance 33-391-01  
02-036-03 High-Performance 33-391-01  
02-111-01 High-Performance 33-355-01  
SS260  
pour in  
casting  
epoxy  
SS270W  
SS505  
Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.  
Gemeco  
(USA)  
Tel: 803-693-0777  
hull  
Fax: 803-693-0477  
outer skin  
solid or hollow  
cylinder  
Airmar EMEA  
Tel: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.48  
(Europe, Middle East, Africa) Fax: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.49  
Figure 6. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull  
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.  
®
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA  
AIRMAR  
TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION  
Copyright © 2003 - 2013 Airmar Technology Corp. All rights reserved.  
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