HEAVY DUTY ROUTER TABLE W013
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
AND
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
The Charnwood router table enables any portable router to be inverted
and used as a stationary machine capable of producing many different
types of joints and decorative finishes.
Charnwood, 1 Rowan Street, Leicester, LE3 9GP, England
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ii) Attach the two vertical clamps (13) to the vertical
clamp supports using washer M5 (22) and knob
M5x10mm (21).
v) Attach the completed fence unit to the table by insert-
ing knob M6x16mm (24) with washer M6 (19) through
the slot in the fence base into the threaded insert in the
table top.
Fig.3
iii) Attach the transparent plastic dust chute (15) using
two roundhead screws M5x10mm (23) with Washers M5
(22).
This dust chute is designed to be used with vacuum
cleaners, using a 38mm hose, or dust extractors, using
either a 50mm hose or 100mm hose with a reducing
cone, fitting either inside or over the outside of the chute
accordingly. It will sometimes be necessary to obtain a
reducing cone to match your hose to the outlet.
If you are intending to use the router table without a dust
collector it is better to leave off the dust chute to avoid a
build up of wood shavings.
Fig.6
Position 1
Position 2
There are two sets of threaded inserts in the table. The
choice of which to use will depend on the type of job to
be performed; Position 1 allows the fence to be set at the
front of the cutter aperture for making shallow cuts or
edge moulding. Position 2 allows the fence to be set fur-
ther back from the cutter for operations such as trench-
ing.
ASSEMBLE THE FINGER PRESSURE
The finger pressure unit is already assembled and sim-
ply needs fitting to the table. It locks into the aluminium
channel which runs across the front of the table using
the two knobs (20).
Fig.4
iv) Attach the transparent plastic cutter Guard (10) to the
fence using knob M5x10mm (21) and washer M5 (22).
Fig.5
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iv) Drill and countersink the insert plate. Use a drill bit
size suitable to the fixing screw you are going to use. If
you do not have a countersink tool, drill the fixing hole
and then make a countersink by partially drilling
through with a larger diameter drill bit. Take care not to
drill right through the insert plate.
ROUTER MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
i) MAKE SURE THE ROUTER IS UNPLUGGED.
Remove the face plate cover from the router ( If your
router does not have a removable face plate cover,
measure the spacing of the fixing holes in the face
plate and then mark out the insert plate, keeping the
cutter aperture as the centre).
Normally the mounting holes will be drilled through the
black plastic part of the insert plate, however with some
smaller routers it is necessary to drill the fixing holes
into one of the tranparent insert rings (4&5).
v) Leaving the face plate cover off (if removed) attach
the insert plate to the router using the fixing screws
supplied or alternative screws where required. Ensure
the heads of the screws are slightly below the surface
of the table. If they are not, it is necesary to drill the
countersink slightly deeper.
Fig.7
ii) Remove the Oval Insert Plate (3) from the Router
Table.
iii) Align the centre of the aperture in the insert plate
with the centre of the cut-out in the face plate cover.
Fig. 9
vi) Check that the router is secured tightly to the insert
plate and that there is no movement between the two.
vii) Install the desired cutter and set to the correct
depth. Fit the router and insert plate into the table,
securing with the four M6x16mm countersunk screws
(6). Re-fit the fence and finger pressure.
The Router Table is now ready for use.
Fig.8
Using the face plate cover as a template mark out the
fixing holes.
The number and position of the holes will vary with
each model of router. Use the larger diameter holes if
there is a choice.
A minimum of two fixings must be used, three or four
fixings is preferable with heavier routers.
A selection of fixing screws are included in this pack-
age which covers most common routers, but we cannot
guarantee to cover every available model of router. In
some instances it may be necesary to obtain alterna-
tive fixing screws.
Fig. 10
PLEASE READ SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE USE.
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between the two wooden fence faces can be adjusted
by undoing the knobs and sliding the clamp assembly
and fence along. The fence faces should be set so that
the edges just clear the cutter. This provides the maxi-
mum amount of support to the workpiece during the cut.
BASIC OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
1) EDGING AND PROFILING
One of the most common operations undertaken using a
router is Edging or Profiling, i.e. running a shaped cutter
along the edge of the workpiece. In many instances this
is for decorative purposes but it can also be to make a
joint or fitting such as a raised panel.
Using a router table for this type of work vastly reduces
the setting up time required and does away with many
awkward clamping devices. Router table users soon find
that having both hands free to control the workpiece,
rather than holding a machine, makes the task far more
comfortable and generally a lot safer.
Fig. 12
CHOOSE THE INSERT RING:- The router table is sup-
plied with an insert plate and two transparent insert rings
to give a range of cutter apertures. Always choose the
smallest possible aperture for safety. For example when
working with a cutter of 38mm diameter, use the outer
transparent ring which gives an aperture of 42mm.
SET THE CLAMPS:- Adjust the Finger Pressure so that
the distance between the ends of the fingers and the
fence is between 2 to 5mm less than the width of the
workpiece. This will hold the workpiece securely against
the fence and prevent 'kick-back' during the cut. Next set
the left and right Top Clamps. The top clamps are made
of flexible plastic and should be set so that the distance
between the bottom of the clamp and the surface of the
table is between 1 to 3mm less than the thickness of the
workpiece. When the clamps are correctly set, the oper-
ator merely has to push the workpiece across the table.
Please Note: Some workpieces may be too big to fit
inside either the Top Clamps or the Finger Pressure, i.e.
larger than 70 x 80mm. Simply remove the clamp/finger
pressure from the table. The function of the clamps is
twofold; to hold the workpiece securely against the cut-
ter, whilst keeping the hands well away from it. When
using larger workpieces the increased weight will help to
keep it against the cutter and the danger of hands being
too near the cutter is greatly reduced.
SET THE CUTTER GUARD:- Adjust the transparent
guard so that it just clears the work piece and will deflect
any chips or dust which are thrown towards the opera-
tor. If possible connect a vacuum cleaner or dust extrac-
tor to the dust chute before commencing the cut.
Fig. 11
SET THE CUTTER HEIGHT:- First fit a suitable cutter
after making sure the router is unplugged. It is often eas-
ier to do this by unscrewing the insert plate from the table
and lifting the router out of the table. Draw a profile of the
required cut onto the edge of the workpiece and adjust
the cutter height to match. Adjusting the cutter height is
made much easier if a fine height adjuster is fitted to the
router. With many models this now comes as standard,
but on others it is available as an accessory produced by
the router manufacturer. Having set the cutter height fit
the router back into the table and secure with the four
screws.
Make a cut with a waste piece of wood before using the
workpiece. Mistakes cannot usually be rectified after-
wards.
THE GOLDEN RULES;
ALWAYS KEEP HANDS WELL
AWAY FROM THE CUTTER
SET THE FENCE:- The next step is to set the fence in a
position to give the desired width of cut. Use the profile
drawn on the end of the workpiece to set the fence and
lock into position. There is a scale printed onto the table
to assist in rapid fence setting. When using a cutter fitted
with a guide bearing the fence should be set in line or
just in front of the edge of the bearing so that the work-
piece runs on the face of the bearing. The distance
ALWAYS USE A PUSH STICK
WITH SMALL WORKPIECES
ALWAYS FEED FROM RIGHT
TO LEFT ONLY
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SET THE ANGLE:- To change the angle of the mitre
fence, undo the knob and read off the engraved scale on
the casting. Tighten the knob at the required angle.
Fig. 13
2) GROOVING
Grooving and Trenching operations are often carried out
to form joints such as slot dovetails or to make fittings
such as draw runner grooves.
SET THE CUTTER HEIGHT:- Fit the appropriate cutter
into the router and set the plunge depth to give the
desired cut.
Fig. 14
4) CUTTING CURVES
SET THE FENCE:- The cut is made away from the edge
of the workpiece and therefore it will probably be nece-
sary to move the Fence back into Position 2. Measure
the distance between the edge of the workpiece and the
start of the groove and lock the fence in position with the
two knobs. The two wooden fence faces should be
closed up to form one continuous fence which will pro-
vide the best support.
It is possible to put edge moulds on curved workpieces
using a router table and a cutter with a bearing guide.
Many cutters are now available with a bearing on top
which is used as a guide instead of the fence.
Set the cutter height in the normal manner. You cannot
take off a whole edge when using a bearing guided cut-
ter. Make sure there is enough of the workpiece edge
left uncut for the cutter bearing to run on.
SET THE CLAMPS:- Set the Finger Pressure and Top
Clamps as for edging and profiling. Remove the Top
Clamps or Finger Pressure as necessary.
If the whole edge is to be removed or you wish to cut out
a profile from a straight edge it is necessary to use a
template. Attach the workpiece to the underside of the
template so that once the cut is started the bearing will
run on the edge of the template whilst the cutter touch-
es only the workpiece.
CUTTER GUARD:- The cutter guard and dust extraction
chute are not used during this operation. Get into the
habit of testing all cutter or table adjustments on a waste
piece of wood first before commencing on the work-
piece.
3) USING THE MITRE GUIDE
For some operations it is not possible to use the fence
as a guide, for example Trenching at an angle or cutting
a Tenon where the width of the workpiece restricts good
support from the fence. To do these jobs a sliding mitre
guide is used which runs in the aluminium slot across
the front of the table.
REMOVE THE EDGING FENCE:- Undo the two fixing
screws and either remove the fence or adjust it to a posi-
tion were it will not ineterfere with the cut.
FIT THE MITRE FENCE:- The mitre guide is supplied
with a wooden face and a screw to fix it to the quadrant.
It should be fitted so that the mitre fence runs right up to
the cutter. Do not worry if the cutter actually cuts through
part of the mitre fence, it will actually help the cut by
reducing break-out on the back edge. You can easily
make a new fence for each job.
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