Cannondale Bicycle Bicycles User Manual

CANNONDALE  
OWNERS MANUAL  
FOR MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES  
This manual contains important safety, performance and maintenance  
information. Read the manual before taking your first ride on your new  
bicycle, and keep the manual handy for future reference.  
In order to validate your warranty  
and BE ENTERED TO WIN A FREE  
SUPER V RAVEN 2000, please fill out  
the Registration Card inside or visit  
our website at www.cannondale .com.  
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Complete your  
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD  
and be  
AUTOMATICALLY  
ENTERED TO WIN A  
CANNONDALE SUPER V RAVEN!  
Sure, returning warranty registration  
cards is a hassle, but if you need  
some extra motivation consider  
this: If you send in your card you  
just might score a sweet new  
Super V Raven full-suspension  
bike! If you prefer e-mail to  
snail-mail, you can even  
register your bike on-line  
and automatically be  
entered into the same  
Super V Raven drawing.  
And remember, completing  
your warranty registration  
card just might help you recover your bike if it's ever stolen.  
So grab a pen, or visit us on-line at cannondale.com and get registered!  
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. See Official Rules on attached page in manual.  
NOTE: By mailing this card, you’ll help us in working with your local  
police department to match bicycle serial numbers with their  
owners. Thanks!  
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Thank you for buying a Cannondale bicycle. Please complete and mail this card immediately or if you would like to register your bike via the internet you  
can do so at www.cannondale.com and join our Cannondale CHAIN Gang for important product information. Prompt registration will insure that your serial  
number is recorded in the event of theft and that you will receive safety notifications.  
CANNONDALE WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD  
1. Mr. ❏  
2. Mrs. ❏  
3. Ms. ❏  
4. Miss ❏  
1
What type of cycling do you do most often? (check one)  
14  
1.  
2.  
Mtn. Biking  
Road Riding  
3.  
4.  
Touring  
Racing  
5.  
6.  
Commuting  
Recreational  
7.  
8.  
Triathlons  
Other  
First Name  
Initial  
Last Name  
What other types of bikes do you currently own?  
15  
Address: (Number and Street)  
Apt. #  
Zip  
1. Full-suspension mountain  
4. Hybrid/City bike 7. Tandem  
2. Front suspension mountain 5. Road racing  
8. I do not own any other bikes.  
3. Rigid mountain  
6. Touring  
City  
State  
Date of Your birth:  
17  
2
3
Do you plan to race your new bicycle? Yes No  
Marital Status:  
1. Married  
2. Single  
16  
18  
E-mail:  
Education (Please check which category applies):  
Month  
Day  
Year  
1.  
High School  
3. Completed College  
Phone Number:  
4
5
2.  
Some College  
4. Graduate School  
Purchase Price:  
6
Date of Purchase:  
What protective gear did you purchase with your bike, or already own and use?  
(See owners manual and consult your retailer)  
19  
20  
.00  
$
Month  
Day  
Year  
1. Helmet  
2. Gloves  
3. Protective glasses  
Already own  
Already own  
Already own  
Bought with bicycle  
Bought with bicycle  
Bought with bicycle  
Bicycle Model:  
7
example: Super V 1000  
Model Color:  
Store Name:  
Frame Size:  
in. or cm.  
8
9
Do you plan to ride at dusk, dawn, or at night? If so, have you purchased or do  
you already own and plan to use a lighting system as is required for night riding  
in all 50 states? (See owners manual and consult your retailer)  
10  
1. Yes  
2. No  
Already own  
Do not plan to ride at dusk, dawn, or night  
Bought with bicycle  
Serial Number:  
Located on underside of bottom bracket (Please see Page 97.)  
BI0302  
11  
GJ  
B1-030  
180  
Which best describes your family income?  
21  
22  
23  
149158  
6FL5WM  
1. Under $15,000  
2. $15,000-$24,999  
3. $25,000-$34,999  
4. $35,000-$49,999  
5. $50,000-$74,999  
6. $75,000-$99,999  
7. $100,000-$149,999  
8. Over $150,000  
bottom bracket  
NOTE: Late model bikes will have the serial number printed adjacent to  
a bar code label on the bottom bracket shell. Please write the eight-digit  
Including children, what are the ages of the other people that live in your house?  
number below left:  
SER #  
Females (in years)  
Males (in years)  
What are the top three (3) features influencing your purchase?  
12  
13  
In the last six (6) months have you or others in your household:  
1. Received as a Gift  
2. Value for Price  
3. Color/Appearance  
4. Prior Experience  
5. Quality/Durability  
6. Component Selection 11. Frame Design/Materials  
7. Comfort/Fit  
8. Weight of Bicycle  
9. Cannondale Reputation 14. Other  
10. Advertisement  
1. Purchased clothes through the mail?  
2. Purchased gifts through the mail?  
3. Worked in your garden?  
5. Purchased a PC or PC software?  
12. Recommendation of Friend/Family  
13. Recommendation of Salesperson  
6. Purchased two or more books?  
7. Purchased cassettes/CDs?  
8. Donated to charities?  
4. Traveled on vacation?  
Thank you for filling out this questionnaire. We value your answers and input. Please check here if you would  
prefer not to participate in further market research for Cannondale or obtain information on new and interesting  
opportunities from other exciting companies.  
How many times do you ride per month?  
1.  
1-5  
2.  
6-10  
3. 11-15  
4. 15+  
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94D  
CANNONDALE  
Super V Raven Sweepstakes  
Official Rules  
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter, complete and mail in the attached warranty registration card, or register your new Cannondale  
bike on-line at cannondale.com. You’ll be automatically entered when we receive your registration. You may also enter by hand-printing your name,  
address, phone number, and the words “Cannondale Super V Raven Sweepstakes” on a 3” x 5” card and mailing it to: Cannondale Corporation,  
16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801, Attn: Raven Sweepstakes. Limit one entry per person. No mechanically reproduced entries will be accepted.  
All entries must be received by July 1, 2000 when the Sweepstakes ends.  
PRIZE AND ODDS. One (1) prize will be awarded: a 2000 Cannondale Super V Raven bicycle (approx. retail value $3,000.00). Odds of  
winning depend on number of entries. No substitution of prize. All taxes on prize are responsibility of winner. If winner is a minor, prize will be  
awarded to parent or legal guardian.  
ELIGIBILITY. Sweepstakes begins May 1, 1999 and is open to legal residents of the fifty United States and D.C., 18 years of age or older,  
except employees of Cannondale Corporation, Cannondale Corporation Bethel, Connecticut, its agents, advertising agencies, promotional suppliers  
and members of the households or immediate families of any of the foregoing. This Sweepstakes is void everywhere outside the United States and  
wherever prohibited by law. All applicable federal, state and local laws and regulations apply.  
SELECTION OF WINNER. Winner will be selected at random on or about July 31, 2000 from among all eligible entries received. Winner will  
be notified by mail.  
GENERAL. All Sweepstakes materials are subject to validation. Judges decisions are final. By entering, you agree to be bound by these Official  
Rules and all decisions of the judges. The potential winner may be required to sign and return an affidavit of eligibility, a prize release and a  
publicity release. Failure to do so when requested may result in disqualification and selection of an alternate winner. Sweepstakes materials are  
not valid if illegible, incomplete, forged, duplicated, mutilated or otherwise reproduced or tampered with in any way. All entries become property of  
sponsor, and none will be returned. No responsibility is assumed for lost, late, stolen, misdirected or postage due mail or unavailability or  
malfunctioning of on-line connections or communications.  
WINNER’S LIST. For name of winner, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope by August 31, 2000 to Cannondale Corporation,  
16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801, Attn: Raven Sweepstakes.  
1
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THANK YOU FOR PURCHASING A CANNONDALE.  
No assembly instructions are in this manual. Your new bicycle should be delivered to you only  
in a completely assembled and properly adjusted condition, complete with all CPSC required  
safety equipment.  
YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL  
To help you get the most out of your Cannondale, we’ve included this owner’s manual with your  
purchase. The manual is organized into two sections. The first section is a generic guide to the proper  
function and use of bicycles. The second section covers information specific to Cannondale bicycles.  
Both are important.  
OWNER’S MANUAL SUPPLEMENTS  
Many Cannondale bicycles (especially models equipped with front and/or rear suspension) require  
specific instructions in addition to this Owner’s Manual. If your new bicycle is equipped with suspen-  
sion, your dealer must supply you with an Owner’s Manual supplement in addition to this Owner’s  
Manual. This supplement has instructions covering proper use, maintenance, and adjustment of your  
bike’s suspension components, and may include important warnings and warranty information.  
If your new Cannondale bicycle is equipped with front and/or rear suspension, and you did not receive  
an Owners Manual supplement or additional instructions with the Owner’s Manual, please call your  
Cannondale dealer immediately, or call us at one of the numbers listed on the back cover of this  
manual. Do not ride your new bicycle until you receive and read these additional instructions.  
2
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YOUR LOCAL AUTHORIZED CANNONDALE RETAILER  
Along with this manual, your key source of information and assistance is the shop where you  
purchased your bicycle. Your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer is your primary contact for  
service and adjustment of your bicycle, instruction in its use, and any warranty questions. To find  
the Cannondale retailer closest to you, call 1-800-BIKE-USA.  
REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE  
Technological breakthroughs have made bicycles and bicycle components more complex than ever  
before, and the pace of innovation is increasing. This on-going revolution makes it impossible for  
this manual to provide all the information required to properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle.  
In order to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have  
all repair and maintenance work performed by an Authorized Cannondale Retailer.  
Equally important, establish and adhere to a periodic maintenance schedule. Your individual  
maintenance requirements will be determined by everything from how often and how far you ride  
to your riding style to geographic location. Consult your Authorized Cannondale Retailer for help in  
determining your maintenance requirements.  
3
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WHY YOU SHOULD READ THIS MANUAL  
This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort,  
enjoyment and safety when riding your new bike.  
A
BOUT THIS  
1
Its important for you to understand your new bike, its features and its  
operation, so that, from your first ride, you get maximum enjoyment with  
maximum safety. By reading this manual before you go out on your first  
ride, you’ll know how to get the most from your new bicycle.  
MANUAL  
It is also important that your first ride on a new bicycle is taken in a  
controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists.  
GENERAL WARNING:  
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity e ve n unde r the be s t of  
circums tance s . Prope r mainte nance of your bicycle is your  
re s pons ibility as it he lps re duce the ris k of injury. This Manual  
contains many "Warnings " and "Cautions " conce rning the cons e -  
que nce s of failure to maintain or ins pe ct your bicycle . Many of the  
Warnings and Cautions s ay "you may los e control and fall". Be caus e  
any fall can re s ult in s e rious injury or e ve n de ath, we do not re pe at  
the warning of pos s ible injury or de ath whe ne ve r the ris k of falling  
is me ntione d.  
!
4
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Whe n all e ls e fails . . . its too late to re ad the manual  
Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, you probably need an updating  
of your bicycling habits, knowledge and assumptions. Why? Because bicycles  
are going through some pretty dramatic changes in the technology which  
affects function, handling, comfort, performance and safety.  
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS:  
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or  
guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and safety of your  
minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle  
which your child is riding is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good  
repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned  
and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your  
child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor  
vehicle, bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe  
and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before  
letting your child ride the bicycle. We have tried to make this manual  
interesting and instructive for both you and your child.  
Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when  
riding (see Section 4 B).  
5
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1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
frame  
top tube  
down tube  
seat tube  
chain stay  
seat stay  
head tube  
fork  
W
HAT IT S  
2
CALLED  
32  
36  
33  
38  
9
31  
1
35  
37  
41  
41  
42  
43  
39  
43  
39  
wheel  
7
2
10 tire  
10  
27  
11  
11 tread  
12  
40  
40  
12 sidewall  
13 valve stem  
14 tube  
4
3
15  
8
6
43  
30  
26  
5
15 rim  
24  
18  
43  
16 spokes  
17 hub  
28  
16  
13  
17  
29  
25  
23  
18 quick release  
19 bottom bracket  
20 crank  
20  
21  
19  
22  
14  
21 chainrings  
6
fig. 1a Dropped Bar Bike  
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22 chain  
23 pedal  
24 toeclip/strap  
25 rear derailleur  
26 front derailleur  
27 shifter  
34  
36  
32  
33  
42  
28 shifter cable  
29 adjusting barrel  
30 freewheel/rear  
cluster/cassette  
31 headset  
31  
35  
27  
41  
1
38  
43  
37  
41  
43  
40  
7
2
9
10  
11  
12  
32 stem  
3
39  
6
40  
39  
4
33 handlebar  
34 bar end extension  
35 seatpost  
8
43  
26  
30  
21  
18  
16  
36 saddle  
43  
13  
28  
29  
37 seat binder  
38 brake lever  
39 brake  
5
17  
23  
25  
20  
14  
19  
22  
15  
40 brake shoe  
41 brake cable  
42 adjusting barrel  
43 reflectors  
fig. 1b Flat Bar Bike  
7
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Adult bicycles can be broadly categorized into four types, according to  
the intended use for which the bike was designed: Road Bikes, Mountain  
Bikes, Cross Bikes and City or Cruiser Bikes. While there is a lot of use  
overlap in bike design, each type of bike is designed to provide optimum  
performance, comfort and safety under specific use conditions. Which  
type is your new bike?  
W
HAT KIND  
OF A BIKE  
IS IT  
3
?
The Road Bike, sometimes called a racing bike because it is derived  
from the bikes used by bicycle road racers and triathletes, is for fast  
travel, hard training and competition on paved surfaces. It is the lightest,  
most aerodynamic and “fastest” type of bike. Because it is generally  
ridden on relatively smooth paved roads, its frame is made as stiff and  
light as possible, and its frame geometry is designed to give it quick,  
very precise response to rider input. Its components, especially wheels,  
tend to be lighter than those for other categories, again because they are  
not designed to get banged around as much. Its dropped handlebars,  
sometimes equipped with aero bar extensions, are designed to give the  
rider good leverage for climbing and sprinting, and to position the rider  
in an aerodynamic "tuck" for speed. Its high-pressure, narrow tires  
reduce rolling resistance to a minimum.  
fig. 2 Road Bike  
But: The ride tends to be too stiff for comfort on rougher surfaces. The  
frame and components are too light to take the pounding of off-road  
excursions. The handlebars position the rider in a way that many find  
8
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uncomfortable for more casual riding. The narrow tires are not recommended  
for use on loose surfaces.  
The Mountain Bike is designed to give the rider maximum control and  
durability on a wide variety of harsh terrain. Everything about the Mountain  
Bike is more rugged. Its frame geometry provides maximum ground  
clearance and allows you to quickly and easily shift your weight to change  
the balance of the bike as terrain conditions demand. Its wide, high-volume  
tires absorb shock and provide a bigger, more stable footprint on loose or  
slippery surfaces. Its wide-range gearing, usually with 18 or more speeds,  
provides the right choice for almost any condition. Many Mountain Bikes  
come equipped with suspension systems which help absorb the shocks and  
vibrations of rough trails.  
fig. 3 Mountain Bike  
But: A Mountain Bike is heavier than a road bike. Its wide tires have  
greater rolling resistance than road bike tires. While more comfortable for  
many people, the rider's more upright riding position is aerodynamically  
inefficient. A Mountain Bike is not the best choice for long, fast rides on  
paved surfaces.  
NOTE: While the rugged appearance of Mountain bikes might suggest that  
they're indestructible, they are not. They are tough and sturdy; but as with  
any machine, abuse will soon take a toll on their ability to perform.  
9
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The Cross Bike, also often called a Hybrid, Cross Terrain Bike or Fitness  
Bike, is like a Swiss Army Knife: it's a versatile tool that does many  
things well. The Cross Bike is a good choice for the rider who isn't look-  
ing for the ultimate in performance either on or off the road, but who  
wants a bike that will handle paved roads, bike paths, graded fire trails  
and dirt roads. It's not as fast on pavement as a Road Bike; nor is it  
designed for hard off-road use on “single track” or rocky, rutted, rugged  
terrain like a Mountain Bike.  
fig. 4 Cross Bike  
By changing tires, handlebars and shifting and braking controls, your  
dealer can alter a Cross Bike's performance range to favor either paved  
road performance or dirt road performance, to suit your intended use.  
The City Bike, also called a Cruiser, is designed for comfortable, low-  
maintenance, casual riding. It is often equipped with three, five, seven  
or more gears which are housed in the rear wheel hub. Its frame is  
designed for comfort rather than for high performance, and its fat tires  
are designed for solid, rather than loose, surfaces. The Cruiser is ideal  
for around town, for gently rolling or flat rural roads, for a ride around  
the park, or for a quick trip to the store.  
fig. 4A City Bike  
10  
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A. FIT  
Make sure the bike fits. A bike thats too big or too small for the rider is  
harder to control and can be uncomfortable.  
F
IT AND  
4
S
AFETY  
WARNING: If your bicycle doe s not fit prope rly, you may los e control  
and fall. If your ne w bike doe s nt fit, as k your de ale r to e xchange it  
be fore your ride it.  
Frame size: Your dealer will have recommended the best frame size for  
you, based on the information provided. If you picked your own bike at  
the dealership, your dealer took the time to fit you to the correct frame  
size at the time. If someone else selected the bike for you, as a gift, for  
example, its important for you to make sure that it fits before you ride it.  
!
The first check for correct size is standover height. Standover height is  
the basic element of bike fit. It is the distance from the ground to the  
top of the top tube at that point where your crotch would be if you were  
straddling the bike by standing half way between the saddle and the  
handlebar stem. To check for safe standover height, straddle the bike  
while wearing the kind of shoes in which you'll be riding, and bounce  
vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is  
too big for you. Don't even ride the bike around the block. A bike which  
fig. 5 Standover Height  
11  
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you ride only on paved surfaces and never, ever take off-road should  
give you a minimum standover height clearance of one to two inches. A  
bike that you'll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of  
three inches of standover height clearance. And a bike that you'll use for  
real mountain biking on difficult, rough terrain should give you four or  
more inches of clearance.  
Saddle position: Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in get-  
ting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. Your dealer  
will have positioned the saddle where experience tells him most people  
find it comfortable. If you find the saddle position is not comfortable,  
there are adjustments you can make.  
fig. 6A  
fig. 6B  
fig. 6C  
Look at Figures 6A, B and C, and determine which one illustrates the  
type of saddle attachment on your bicycle.  
A saddle can be adjusted in three directions:  
1. Up and down adjustment. Your leg length determines the correct sad-  
dle height. The saddle is at the correct height for you when, while seated  
on the saddle and with the crank arms parallel to the seat tube, you can  
just reach the “down” pedal with one heel. To check for correct saddle  
height:  
12  
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sit on the saddle;  
place one heel on a pedal;  
rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the  
down position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.  
close  
close  
open  
open  
If your leg is not completely straight and just touching the center of the  
pedal, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock  
for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent  
at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.  
fig. 7A  
Standard Binder  
fig. 7B  
QR Binder  
min insert  
mark  
To adjust the saddle height, loosen the seat binder bolt (fig. 7A &B; see  
also Section 6. B on Seat Post Quick Releases) and move the seat post  
up or down as required. Then, make sure that the saddle is parallel to  
the top tube of the bike, and retighten the seat binder bolt tight enough  
so that you cannot twist the saddle out of alignment. Check the adjust-  
ment as described above. Under no circumstances should the seat post  
project from the frame beyond its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum  
Extension" mark (fig. 8).  
t
n
i
m
n
i
fig. 8  
WARNING:  
If your s e at pos t proje cts from the frame be yond the Minimum  
Ins e rtion or Maximum Exte ns ion mark (s e e fig. 8) the s e at pos t  
may bre ak, which could caus e you to los e control and fall.  
!
13  
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2. Front and back adjustment. Loosen the saddle clamping mechanism  
(see fig. 6A, B or C) and slide the saddle back or forward on its rails.  
Start with the saddle clamped in about the middle, then adjust forward  
or back until you find the position which is most comfortable for you.  
Then, retighten the saddle clamping mechanism as tight as you can.  
3. Saddle tilt adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but  
some riders prefer to have the saddle nose tilted up just a little, and  
others prefer it to be tilted down just a little. You can adjust saddle tilt  
by loosening the saddle clamping mechanism, tilting the saddle to the  
desired position, and retightening the saddle clamping mechanism tight  
enough so that you cannot move or jiggle the saddle.  
Very small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on  
performance and comfort. Consequently, whenever you make a change  
to your saddle position, make only one directional change at a time, and  
make the changes in small increments until you have found the position  
at which you are most comfortable.  
WARNING: Afte r any s addle adjus tme nt, be s ure to tighte n the  
s addle adjus ting me chanis m prope rly be fore riding. A loos e  
s addle clamp or s e at pos t binde r can caus e damage to the s e at  
pos t, or can caus e you to los e control and fall. A corre ctly tight-  
e ne d s addle adjus ting me chanis m will allow no s addle move me nt  
in any dire ction. Pe riodically che ck to make s ure that the s addle  
adjus ting me chanis m is prope rly tighte ne d.  
!
14  
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If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft  
position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a different  
saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes  
and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle which, when  
correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.  
CAUTION: It has be e n alle ge d that e xte nde d riding with a s addle  
which is incorre ctly adjus te d or which doe s not s upport your  
pe lvic are a corre ctly can caus e s hort-te rm or long-te rm injury to  
ne rve s and blood ve s s e ls . If your s addle caus e s you pain or numb-  
ne s s , adjus t the s addle pos ition and your riding pos ition. If pain or  
numbne s s pe rs is t, talk to your de ale r about fitting a diffe re nt  
s addle to your bicycle .  
!
Handlebar height and angle: If your bike is equipped with a stem which  
clamps directly on to the outside of the steerer tube, your dealer may be  
able to change bar height by moving height adjustment spacers from  
below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you'll have to  
get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt  
to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.  
But on many bikes, you can raise or lower your handlebars a bit by  
adjusting stem height yourself. Loosen the stem binder bolt by turning  
it counterclockwise three or four full turns. If the bolt rises but the stem  
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doesn't, get a piece of wood or a soft mallet and give the bolt a good whack to  
release the wedge. Adjust the stem position as desired, align stem with tire,  
and retighten the binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the stem  
and handlebars out of alignment. Under no circumstances should the stem be  
retightened with its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum extension" mark visible.  
stem  
binder  
handlebar  
binder  
min  
insert  
mark  
Now check to make sure that the handlebars rotate freely in both directions  
without the brake cables catching or binding on anything.  
fig. 9  
CAUTION: On s ome bicycle s , changing the s te m or s te m he ight can  
affe ct the te ns ion of the front brake cable , locking the front brake or  
cre ating s ufficie nt cable s lack to make the front brake inope rable . If  
the front brake s hoe s move in towards the whe e l rim or out away from  
the whe e l rim whe n you change the s te m or s te m he ight, take your  
bicycle to your de ale r for corre ct brake adjus tme nt be fore riding it.  
!
WARNING: The s te m's Minimum Ins e rtion Mark mus t not be vis ible  
above the top of the he ads e t (s e e fig. 9). If the s te m is e xte nde d  
be yond the Minimum Ins e rtion Mark the s te m may bre ak or damage  
the fork's s te e re r tube , which could caus e you to los e control and fall.  
!
You can change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions by loosening  
their binder bolt, rotating the bar or extension to the desired angle, recenter-  
ing it and retightening the binder bolt tight enough so that the bars or exten-  
sions can't move in relation to each other and the stem.  
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WARNING: Failure to prope rly tighte n the s te m binde r bolt, the han-  
dle bar binde r bolt or the bar e nd e xte ns ion clamping bolts may com-  
promis e s te e ring action, which could caus e you to los e control and  
fall. Place the front whe e l of the bicycle be twe e n your le gs and  
atte mpt to twis t the handle bar/ s te m as s e mbly. If you can twis t the  
s te m in re lation to the front whe e l, turn the handle bars in re lation  
to the s te m, or turn the bar e nd e xte ns ions in re lation to the handle -  
bar, tighte n the bolts .  
!
!
Control position adjustments: The brake and shifting controls on your bike  
are positioned where they work best for most people. The angle of the con-  
trols and their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer  
to show you how, or to make the adjustments for you.  
Brake reach: Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach.  
If you have small hands and find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers,  
your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.  
WARNING: The s horte r the brake le ve r re ach, the more critical it is  
to have corre ctly adjus te d brake s , s o that full braking powe r can be  
applie d within available brake le ve r trave l. Brake le ve r trave l ins uffi-  
cie nt to apply full braking powe r can re s ult in los s of control, which  
may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.  
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B. SAFETY EQUIPMENT  
WARNING: Many s tate s re quire s pe cific s afe ty de vice s . It is your  
re s pons ibility to familiarize yours e lf with the laws of the s tate  
whe re you ride and to comply with all applicable laws , including  
prope rly e quipping yours e lf and your bike as the law re quire s .  
!
Helmet: While not all States require bicyclists to wear approved  
protective headgear, common sense dictates that you should wear an  
ANSI, Snell or other approved helmet whether the law requires it or not.  
Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might have  
been avoided if the rider had worn a helmet. Your dealer has a variety of  
attractive helmets, and can recommend one to suit your needs. But the  
"right" helmet is not just a fashion statement. It must fit correctly, be  
worn correctly and be properly secured to do its real job. Ask your dealer  
to help you with the fit and adjustment of your helmet, and refer to the  
owners manual provided with the helmet. (fig. 10)  
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet  
WARNING: Always we ar an approve d he lme t whe n riding your bike .  
Always ke e p the chin s trap s e cure ly buckle d. Failure to we ar a  
bicycle he lme t may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
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Reflectors: Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an  
integral part of your bicycle.  
Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear,  
wheel and pedal reflectors. The size, performance and location of each  
reflector is specified by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission.  
The reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights  
in a way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.  
CAUTION: Che ck re fle ctors and the ir mounting bracke ts re gularly to make  
s ure that the y are cle an, s traight, unbroke n and s e cure ly mounte d. Have  
your de ale r re place damage d re fle ctors and s traighte n or tighte n any that  
are be nt or loos e .  
!
!
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as  
brake straddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from  
catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.  
WARNING: Do not re move the front or re ar re fle ctor bracke ts from your  
bicycle . The y are an inte gral s afe ty de vice which prote cts you from the  
brake s traddle cable catching on the tire in the e ve nt of brake cable fail-  
ure . If a brake s traddle cable catche s on the tire , it can caus e the whe e l  
to s top s udde nly, caus ing you to loos e control and fall.  
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WARNING: Do not re move the re fle ctors from your bicycle . The y are  
an inte gral part of the bicycle 's s afe ty s ys te m. Re moving the  
re fle ctors may re duce your vis ibility to othe rs us ing the roadway.  
Be ing s truck by othe r ve hicle s may re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.  
Re me mbe r: re fle ctors are not a s ubs titute for lights . Always e quip  
your bicycle with all s tate and locally mandate d lights .  
!
!
Lights: If you ride your bike before dawn or after dusk, your bicycle  
must be equipped with lights so that you can see the road and avoid  
road hazards; and so that others can see you. Vehicle laws treat bicycles  
like any other vehicle. That means you must have a white front and a  
red rear light operating if you are riding after dusk. Your bike dealer can  
recommend a battery or generator powered lighting system appropriate  
to your needs.  
WARNING: Re fle ctors are not a s ubs titute for prope r lights . It is  
your re s pons ibility to e quip your bicycle with all s tate and locally  
mandate d lights . Riding at dawn, at dus k, at night or at othe r time s  
of poor vis ibility without a bicycle lighting s ys te m which me e ts local  
and s tate laws and without re fle ctors is dange rous and may re s ult  
in s e rious injury or de ath.  
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Pedals: (See also Section 6.E and 6.F.) Some higher performance model bicycles  
come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.  
These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing adhesion between the  
rider's shoe and the bicycle pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-perfor-  
mance pedal you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’  
sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less  
aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a number of options and  
make suitable recommendations.  
Eye protection: Any kind of riding, but particularly off-road riding, involves air-  
borne dirt, dust and bugs, so it's a good idea always to ride with protective eye-  
wear -- tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it's not. Most bike shops carry  
protective fashion eyewear, some with interchangeable lens systems.  
C. MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK  
Here is a simple, sixty-second mechanical safety check which you should get in  
the habit of making every time you're about to get on a bike.  
Nuts, bolts & straps: Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three inches,  
then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick  
visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories? If  
so, secure them. If you're not sure, ask someone with experience to check.  
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Tires & Wheels: Tires correctly inflated? Check by putting one hand on  
the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then  
bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection.  
Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the tires are  
correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary. See Section 6.G.1 for details  
and recommended tire pressures.  
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the  
tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.  
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-  
to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side or hits the brake pads,  
take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.  
CAUTION: Whe e ls mus t be true for the brake s to work e ffe ctive ly.  
Whe e l truing is a s kill which re quire s s pe cial tools and e xpe rie nce .  
Do not atte mpt to true a whe e l unle s s you have the knowle dge ,  
e xpe rie nce and tools ne e de d to do the job corre ctly.  
!
Brakes: Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick releases closed?  
The straddle cable securely engaged? Are the brake shoes contacting  
the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply  
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full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If  
not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are  
properly adjusted. See Sections 6.C.1 and 6.C.2 for details.  
WARNING: Riding with imprope rly adjus te d brake s or worn brake s hoe s is  
dange rous and can re s ult in s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
!
Quick Releases: Are the front wheel, rear wheel and seat post quick releases  
properly adjusted and in the locked position? See Section 6.A and 6.B for  
details.  
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly adjus te d whe e l quick re le as e can  
caus e the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage from the bicycle , which can  
caus e damage to the bicycle and s e rious injury or de ath.  
Handlebar and saddle alignment: Are the saddle and handlebar stem correct-  
ly parallel to the bike's top tube and tight enough so that you can't twist  
them out of alignment?  
Handlebar ends: Are the handlebar grips secure and in good condition? If not,  
replace them. Are the handlebar ends and extensions plugged? If not, plug  
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them before you ride. On a Mountain bike or Cross bike, are the bar end  
extensions tight enough so you can’t twist them? If not, tighten them.  
WARNING: Loos e or damage d handle bar grips or e xte ns ions can  
caus e you to los e control and fall. Unplugge d handle bars or e xte n-  
s ions can cut your body, and can caus e s e rious injury in an othe r-  
wis e minor accide nt.  
!
OK: now buckle on your helmet and enjoy your ride.  
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet  
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NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing  
to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk. Not the people who  
sold you the bike. Not the people who made it. Not the people who distribute it.  
Not the people who manage or maintain the roads or trails you ride on. You. So  
you need to know -- and to practice -- the rules of safe and responsible riding.  
R
IDING  
AFELY AND  
ESPONSIBLY  
5
S
R
A. THE BASICS  
1. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C) before you get on a bike.  
2. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest Snell or ANSI  
standard. (see fig. 10)  
3. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth  
of chainrings; the moving chain; the turning pedals and cranks; and the spin-  
ning wheels of your bicycle.  
4. Always wear shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals.  
Ne ve r ride barefoot or wearing sandals.  
5. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle.  
6. Wear bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can catch on moving  
parts of the bicycle or be snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.  
fig. 10 Wearing a Helmet  
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7. Don't jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or  
mountain bike, can be fun; but it puts incredible stress on everything  
from your spokes to your pedals. Perhaps most vulnerable to jumping-  
related damage is your front fork. Riders who insist on jumping their  
bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves.  
8. Think about your speed, and keep your speed at a level which is  
consistent with conditions. Always keep in mind that there is a direct  
relationship between speed and control, and between speed and  
component stress.  
B. RULES OF THE ROAD  
1. Learn the local bicycle laws and regulations. Many communities  
have special regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on side-  
walks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Many states  
have helmet laws, child carrier laws and special bicycle traffic laws. In  
the U.S. and in most foreign countries, a bicyclist is required to obey  
the same traffic laws as the driver of a car or motorcycle. It's your  
responsibility to know and obey the laws.  
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others -- motorists,  
pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if  
they infringe on yours.  
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3. Ride defensively. Assume that the people with whom you are shar-  
ing the road are so absorbed with what they are doing and where they  
are going that they are oblivious to you.  
4. Look ahead of where you're going, and be ready to avoid:  
Vehicles slowing or turning in front of you, entering the  
road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.  
Parked car doors opening in front of you.  
Pedestrians stepping out in front of you.  
Children playing near the road.  
Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or  
sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could  
cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel or otherwise  
cause you to lose control and have an accident.  
The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a  
bicycle ride.  
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or on the  
right side of the road, in the same direction as car traffic and as close  
to the edge of the road as possible.  
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6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at  
street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always looses in a  
collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have  
the right of way.  
7. Use hand signals for turning and stopping. Learn the local vehicle  
code for the correct signals.  
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency  
vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what's going  
on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the  
bicycle, causing you to lose control.  
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an  
approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child carrier  
or a child-carrying trailer.  
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete  
control of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving  
parts of the bicycle.  
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.  
12. Don't do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you injury and  
damage your bike.  
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13. Don't weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise  
people with whom you are sharing the road.  
14. Observe and yield the right of way.  
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or  
drugs.  
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured,  
at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions  
increases the risk of accident.  
C. RULES OF THE TRAIL  
1. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you're riding off-road, the  
closest help may be miles away. See Section 8 for the equipment you  
should take with you on an off-road ride.  
2. Don't ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make  
sure that someone knows where you're going and when you expect to be  
back.  
3. Surface hazards make off-road riding much more difficult and there-  
fore more dangerous than riding on paved roads. Start slowly and build  
up your skills on easier terrain before tackling the more difficult.  
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4. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride  
off-road, and respect private property. Don't ride where you are not wel-  
come or where you are not allowed.  
5. You are sharing the trail with others -- hikers, equestrians, other  
cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if they inconvenience you.  
6. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that  
does not frighten or endanger them, and stay far enough away so that  
their unexpected moves don't endanger you.  
7. You may be riding in sensitive habitat, so stay on the designated  
trail. Don't contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary  
sliding. Don't disturb wildlife or livestock; and don't disturb the ecosys-  
tem by cutting your own trail through vegetation or streams.  
8. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment.  
Ride accordingly. Leave things as you found them; and always take out  
everything you brought in.  
D. DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING  
To ride downhill at speed or in competition is to voluntarily assume an  
increased risk of injury or death. When riding downhill, you can reach  
speeds seen on motorcycles, and therefore face similar hazards and  
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risks. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet,  
full finger gloves, and body armor. Have your bicycle and equipment careful-  
ly inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition.  
Consult with expert riders and race officials on conditions and equipment  
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Ultimately, it is your responsi-  
bility to have proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.  
WARNING: Downhill mountain biking can le ad to s e rious accide nts . We ar  
appropriate s afe ty ge ar and be s ure your bike is prope rly maintaine d.  
Follow all ins tructions above . Eve n with s tate -of-the -art prote ctive s afe -  
ty ge ar, you could be s e rious ly injure d or kille d whe n doing downhill  
mountain biking.  
!
If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may de ve lop als o  
incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nde d bike dips .  
You could los e control and fall if your s kill is not up to handling this s ys -  
te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys te m s afe ly be fore  
trying any downhill or ve ry fas t mountain biking.  
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E. WET WEATHER RIDING  
WARNING: We t we athe r impairs traction, braking and vis ibility, both  
for the bicyclis t and for othe r ve hicle s s haring the road. The ris k of  
an accide nt is dramatically incre as e d in we t conditions .  
!
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the  
brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and  
your tires don't grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed  
and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and  
stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes  
earlier and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions.  
See also Section 6.C.  
F. NIGHT RIDING  
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding  
during the day. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk  
or at night. Adults should not ride at dusk or at night unless it is  
absolutely necessary.  
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WARNING: Riding at dawn, at dus k, afte r dark or at time s of poor  
vis ibility without a bicycle lighting s ys te m which me e ts local and  
s tate laws and without re fle ctors is ille gal, dange rous and can re s ult  
in s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
Even if you have excellent night vision, many of the people with whom  
you're sharing the road don't. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists  
and pedestrians to see at dawn, at dusk, at night, or at other times of  
poor visibility. If you must ride under these conditions, check and be  
sure you comply with all local laws about night riding; follow the Rules  
of the Road and of the Trail even more carefully, and you must take the  
following additional precautions:  
Before riding at dawn, at dusk or at night, take the following steps to  
make yourself more visible:  
Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and  
securely mounted reflectors (see Section 4 B).  
Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered headlight  
and tail light.  
Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflec-  
tive vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet,  
33  
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flashing lights ... any reflective device or light source that moves will  
help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and  
other traffic  
Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle  
does not obstruct a reflector or light.  
When riding at dusk or at night,  
Ride slowly.  
Avoid areas of heavy traffic, dark areas,  
and roads with speed limits over 35 mph.  
Avoid road hazards.  
If possible, ride on routes already familiar to you.  
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H
OW  
T
HINGS  
It's important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to under-  
stand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you're an experienced  
bicyclist, don't assume that the way things work on your new bike is the  
same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read -- and to under-  
stand -- this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt  
as to whether you understand something, talk to your dealer.  
6
W
ORK  
A. WHEEL QUICK RELEASE  
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly adjus te d whe e l quick re le as e  
can allow the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage from the bicycle ,  
caus ing damage to the bicycle , and s e rious injury or de ath to the  
ride r. The re fore , it is e s s e ntial that you:  
!
1. As k your de ale r to he lp you make s ure you know  
how to ins tall and re move your whe e ls s afe ly.  
2. Unde rs tand and apply the corre ct te chnique for  
clamping your whe e l in place with a quick re le as e .  
3. Each time , be fore you ride the bike ,  
che ck that the whe e l is s e cure ly clampe d.  
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Invented in the 1930s to allow quick, easy wheel removal without the  
need for tools, the bicycle wheel quick release has become standard  
equipment on most recreational, sports and competition bicycles. While  
it looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other,  
the wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the bike's wheel in  
place (see fig. 11). Because of its adjustable nature, it is critical that  
you understand how it works and how to use it properly.  
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is ne e de d to clamp the  
whe e l s e cure ly. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the le ve r  
like a wing nut with the othe r hand until e ve rything is as tight as you  
can ge t it will not clamp the whe e l s afe ly in the dropouts.  
!
closed position  
open  
closed  
closed  
open  
turn to adjust  
clamping force  
fig. 11 Quick Release Cam  
open position  
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1. Adjusting the quick release mechanism (see Fig. 11, opposite)  
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam  
pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by  
way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping  
force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension  
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating  
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keep-  
ing the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than  
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between  
safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.  
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manu-  
facturer or the dealer, it never needs to be removed unless the hub itself  
requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult your dealer.  
2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices  
Many bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention  
device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick release is incor-  
rectly adjusted. Se condary re te ntion de vice s are not a s ubs titute for  
corre ct quick re le as e adjus tme nt.  
37  
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Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:  
a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the  
manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.  
b) The integral type is molded, cast or machined  
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.  
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on  
your bike.  
WARNING: Re moving or dis abling the s e condary re te ntion de vice is  
e xtre me ly dange rous and may le ad to s e rious injury or de ath. It  
als o may void the warranty.  
!
3. Re moving or Ins talling Quick Re le as e Whe e ls  
a. Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel  
(1) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, Figs. 16a, b, c and d).  
(2) Rotate the wheels quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED  
position to the OPEN position (Fig. 11, 12 & 13).  
38  
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(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to  
step 5.  
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disen-  
gage it and go to step (5). If your front fork has an integral secondary  
retention device, loosen the tension adjusting enough to allow removing the  
wheel; then go to step (5).  
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the  
wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.  
close  
b. Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel  
fig. 12 QR Closed Position  
(1) Rotate the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel  
(fig. 11 & 13). This is the OPEN position.  
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork  
blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the  
tips of the fork blades -- the fork dropouts. The quick-release lever should  
be on the left side of the bicycle (fig. 12 & 13). If your bike has a clip-on  
type secondary retention device, engage it.  
open  
fig. 13 QR Open Position  
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right  
hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger  
tight against the fork dropout (fig. 11).  
39  
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(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork  
dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork,  
rotate the quick-release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED  
position (fig. 11 & 12). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade  
and curved toward the wheel.  
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping  
your finge rs around the fork blade for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s  
not le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is  
ins ufficie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clockwis e  
a quarte r turn; the n try again.  
!
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the  
fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension  
adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the  
lever again.  
(6) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is  
centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.  
40  
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WARNING: Se condary re te ntion de vice s are not a s ubs titute for corre ct  
quick re le as e adjus tme nt. Failure to prope rly adjus t the quick re le as e  
me chanis m can caus e the whe e l to wobble or dis e ngage , which could  
caus e you to loos e control and fall, re s ulting in s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).  
(2) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C and D).  
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
(4) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 11 & 13).  
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur  
still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of the  
rear dropouts.  
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position.  
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
41  
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(3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 11).  
The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur  
and freewheel sprockets.  
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then,  
insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to  
the dropouts (fig. 14).  
(5) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame  
dropout; then rotate the lever toward the front of the bike until it is  
parallel to the frame's chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the  
wheel (fig. 14).  
fig. 14 Wheel in Rear Dropouts  
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping  
your finge rs around the fork blade for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s  
not le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is  
ins ufficie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clock-  
wis e a quarte r turn; the n try again.  
!
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to  
the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to the OPEN position.  
Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try  
tightening again.  
42  
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(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.  
(8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure  
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.  
4. Re moving and Ins talling Bolt-On Whe e ls  
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel  
(1) Open up the brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C  
and D).  
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench,  
loosen the two axle nuts.  
open  
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device,  
disengage it and go to step (4). If your front fork has an integral  
secondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns;  
then go to step (4).  
closed  
Bolt-on Wheel in Front Dropouts  
fig. 15b  
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of  
the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the fork  
ends.  
43  
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b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel  
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the  
fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are  
at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the out-  
side, between the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on  
type secondary retention device, engage it.  
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork  
dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork, use  
a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle  
nuts as tight as you can.  
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is  
centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.  
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel  
(1) Open the rear brake shoes (see Section 6.C.1, figs. 16A, B, C and D).  
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and  
pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.  
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the  
two axle nuts.  
fig. 15b  
Bolt-on Wheel in Rear Dropouts  
44  
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(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the  
derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it  
comes out of the rear dropouts.  
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel  
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the  
derailleur body back with your right hand.  
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel  
into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts. The  
axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the  
axle nut.  
(3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch  
adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.  
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.  
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered  
in the frame and clears the brake shoes.  
45  
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B. SEATPOST QUICK RELEASE  
Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post  
binders. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the wheel  
quick-release (Section 6.A.1) While a quick release looks like a long  
bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick release  
uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (see Figs. 7B and 11 ).  
WARNING: Riding with an imprope rly tighte ne d s e at pos t can allow  
the s addle to turn or move and caus e you to los e control and fall.  
The re fore :  
!
1. As k your de ale r to he lp you make s ure you  
know how to corre ctly clamp your s e at pos t.  
2. Unde rs tand and apply the corre ct te chnique  
for clamping your s e at pos t quick re le as e .  
3. Be fore you ride the bike , firs t che ck  
that the s e atpos t is s e cure ly clampe d.  
Adjusting the quick release mechanism  
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around  
the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of  
46  
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clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the  
tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating  
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping  
the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half  
a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe  
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.  
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is ne e de d to clamp the  
s e atpos t s e cure ly. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the  
le ve r like a wing nut with the othe r hand until e ve rything is as tight  
as you can ge t it will not clamp the s e atpos t s afe ly.  
!
!
CAUTION: If you can fully clos e the quick re le as e without wrapping  
your finge rs around a frame tube for le ve rage , and the le ve r doe s not  
le ave a cle ar imprint in the palm of your hand, the te ns ion is ins uffi-  
cie nt. Ope n the le ve r; turn the te ns ion adjus ting nut clockwis e a  
quarte r turn; the n try again.  
47  
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C. BRAKES  
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both  
brakes and apply them simultaneously.  
WARNING: Sudde n or e xce s s ive application of the front brake may  
pitch the ride r ove r the handle bars , caus ing s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
1. How brakes work  
It's important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever  
controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be  
set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the  
left lever controlling the front brake.  
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the  
brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the wheel rim. To make  
sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims  
and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or polishes.  
open  
fig. 16A  
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers com-  
fortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably,  
48  
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consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be  
adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.  
Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the  
brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled.  
When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are  
inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand the way  
the brake quick release works on your bike (see Fig. 16A, B, C & D)  
and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before  
you get on the bike.  
fig. 16B  
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike.  
Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just  
before the wheel "locks up" (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the  
tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all  
directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping  
smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progres-  
sive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the  
position where you think you'll generate appropriate braking force,  
squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you  
feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep  
the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It's important to develop a feel  
for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at  
open  
fig. 16C  
push  
fig. 16D  
49  
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different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this,  
experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts  
of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.  
WARNING: Some bicycle brake s , s uch as line ar-pull (fig 16B) and  
dis c brake s , are e xtre me ly powe rful. You s hould take e xtra care in  
be coming familiar with the s e brake s and e xe rcis e particular care  
whe n us ing the m. Applying the s e brake s too hard or too s udde nly  
can lock up a whe e l, which could caus e you to los e control and fall.  
!
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your  
body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes  
a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around  
the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handle-  
bars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure  
before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pres-  
sure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need  
to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on  
to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease  
rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more  
important on steep descents, because descents shift weight forward.  
50  
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The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling  
wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer  
techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.  
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather.  
Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking  
traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the  
brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on  
loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.  
fig. 17A  
Brake Lever Adjusting Barrel  
2. Adjusting your brakes  
If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check  
(Section 4.C) you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake  
cable adjusting barrel (figs. 17A &B) counterclockwise, then lock  
the adjustment in by turning the barrel's lock nut clockwise as far as  
it will go. If the lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, have your  
dealer check the brakes.  
fig. 17B  
Caliper Brake Adjusting Barrel  
51  
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D. SHIFTING  
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 2. below),  
an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 3. below) or, in some special cases,  
a combination of the two.  
1. Why all those gears?  
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained  
power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at  
high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You  
will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by push-  
ing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having  
multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you  
to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding con-  
ditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit,  
the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90  
pedal revolutions per minute.  
52  
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2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain  
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism  
will consist of:  
downshift  
upshift  
a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette  
a rear derailleur  
upshift  
fig. 18A  
downshift  
usually a front derailleur  
one or two shifters  
one or two control cables  
downshift  
upshift  
one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings  
a drive chain  
upshift  
downshift  
fig. 18B  
The number of possible gear combinations ("speeds") is the product of  
multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by the  
number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21  
and so on).  
up  
shift  
down  
shift  
down  
shift  
up  
shift  
fig. 18C  
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
a. Shifting Gears  
downshift  
upshift  
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred  
for specific types of application because of its ergonomic, performance  
and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the  
upshift  
fig. 18D  
downshift  
53  
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shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike.  
The different types of shifters and their operation are illustrated in  
figures 18A through 18H. Identify the shifters on your bike before  
reading on.  
down  
shift  
up  
shift  
up  
shift  
fig. 18E  
down  
shift  
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a  
shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a  
shift to a "faster", harder to pedal gear. What's confusing is that what's  
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what's happening at  
the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the  
Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example,  
you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a  
downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear  
“steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a  
downshift  
up shift  
up  
shift  
down  
shift  
fig. 18F  
downshift  
up  
shift  
up shift  
larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called  
a
downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to  
remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike  
is for accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving  
the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is  
called an upshift.  
down  
shift  
fig. 18G  
down  
shift  
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design  
requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least  
some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.  
up  
shift  
upshift  
54  
down  
shift  
fig. 18H  
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CAUTION: Ne ve r move the s hifte r while pe daling backward, nor pe dal  
backwards afte r having move d the s hifte r. This could jam the chain and  
caus e s e rious damage to the bicycle .  
!
!
WARNING: Never shift a misadjusted derailleur onto the largest or the  
smallest sprocket. The chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.  
1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur  
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.  
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to  
another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The  
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in  
the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater dis-  
tance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce  
lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a  
shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a  
smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a  
downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprock-  
et results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain  
from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving for-  
ward (i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).  
55  
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2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:  
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the  
chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain  
onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift).  
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).  
b) Which gear should I be in?  
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears (Fig. 19) is  
for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination  
(Fig. 19) is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in  
sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level  
of ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy  
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment  
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear  
combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles,  
hazards or other traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Once  
you've learned the basics, experience will teach you which gear is  
appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift  
smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.  
hills  
speed  
fig. 19 Chain  
56  
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3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain  
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mech-  
anism will consist of:  
a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub  
one, or sometimes two shifters  
one or two control cables  
one front sprockets called chainrings  
a drive chain  
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears  
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving  
the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear. After you have  
moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on  
the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.  
b) Which gear should I be in?  
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically  
largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number of speeds of your  
hub) is for the greatest speed.  
57  
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Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear  
(like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear  
to an easier, slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to  
shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the "starting gear" for the condi-  
tions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy  
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment  
with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At  
first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other  
traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Once you've learned the  
basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which  
condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the  
optimum moment.  
E. TOECLIPS & STRAPS  
Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists  
use to keep their feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals.  
The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which  
gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps  
the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toe-  
clips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most  
effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer  
can explain how toeclips and straps work.  
58  
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WARNING: Ge tting into and out of pe dals with toe clips and s traps  
re quire s s kill which can only be acquire d with practice . Until it be come s  
a re fle x action, the te chnique re quire s conce ntration which can dis tract  
the ride r's atte ntion, caus ing you to los e control and fall. Practice the  
us e of toe clips and s traps whe re the re are no obs tacle s , hazards or traf-  
fic. Ke e p the s traps loos e , and don't tighte n the m until your te chnique  
and confide nce in ge tting in and out of the pe dals warrants it. Ne ve r ride  
in traffic with your toe s traps tight.  
!
F. CLIPLESS (“STEP-IN) PEDALS  
Clipless pedals (sometimes called "step-in pedals") are the means most rac-  
ers use to keep their feet securely in the correct position for maximum ped-  
aling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the  
shoe clicks into a spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require  
shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used.  
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of  
force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Your dealer can show you how  
to make this adjustment.  
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WARNING: Cliple s s pe dals are inte nde d for us e with s hoe s s pe cifi-  
cally made to fit the m and are de s igne d to firmly ke e p the foot  
e ngage d with the pe dal. Practice is re quire d to le arn to e ngage and  
dis e ngage the foot s afe ly. Until e ngaging and dis e ngaging the foot  
be come s a re fle x action, the te chnique re quire s conce ntration  
which can dis tract the ride r's atte ntion, caus ing the ride r to los e  
control and fall. Practice e ngaging and dis e ngaging cliple s s pe dals  
in a place whe re the re are no obs tacle s , hazards or traffic; and be  
s ure that you follow the s e tup and s e rvice ins tructions and warn-  
ings which came with your pe dals .  
!
G. TIRES AND TUBES  
1. Tires  
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging  
from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under  
very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been  
equipped with tires which the bike's manufacturer felt were the best  
balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was  
intended. If, once you've gained experience with your new bike, you  
feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer  
can help you select the most appropriate design.  
fig. 20 Tire Markings  
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The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific  
recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see Fig. 20). The  
part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.  
WARNING: Ne ve r inflate a tire be yond the maximum pre s s ure marke d on  
the tire 's s ide wall. Exce e ding the re comme nde d maximum pre s s ure may  
blow the tire off the rim, which could caus e damage to the bike and  
injury to the ride r and bys tande rs .  
!
!
The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle  
pump. Your dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.  
CAUTION: Gas s tation air hos e s move a large volume of air ve ry rapidly,  
and will rais e the pre s s ure in your tire ve ry rapidly. To avoid ove rinfla-  
tion whe n us ing a gas s tation air hos e , put air into your tire in s hort,  
s pace d burs ts .  
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure  
range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions  
depends largely on tire pressure.  
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Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the  
lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pres-  
sures work best on smooth, dry pavement.  
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range,  
give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed  
clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand.  
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can  
cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently  
to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.  
CAUTION: Pe ncil type automotive tire gauge s and gas s tation air  
hos e pre s s ure s e ttings can be inaccurate and s hould not be re lie d  
upon for cons is te nt, accurate pre s s ure re adings . Ins te ad, us e a high  
quality dial gauge .  
!
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of rid-  
ing you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that  
pressure. Then, check inflation as described in Section 4.C so you'll  
know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may  
need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.  
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Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread  
pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The  
sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the cor-  
rect rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they  
are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.  
2. Tire Valves  
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire's inner tube under pressure, but  
doesn't let it back out unless you want it to.  
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other  
designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any more): The Schraeder Valve  
and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appro-  
priate to the valve stems on your bicycle.  
The Schraeder (Fig. 21a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a  
Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump  
fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve,  
depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other  
appropriate object.  
fig. 21A Schraeder Valve  
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The Presta valve (Fig. 21b) has a narrower diameter and is only found  
on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed  
bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the  
valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up.  
Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a  
Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you'll need a Presta adapter  
(available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once  
you've freed up the valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting.  
Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up  
the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.  
valve stem  
lock nut  
fig. 21B Presta Valve  
H. Bicycle Sus pe ns ion  
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which  
are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in off-road  
riding. There are many different types of suspension systems --- too  
many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a  
suspension system of any kind, ask your dealer to provide you with  
the appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.  
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WARNING: Failure to maintain, che ck and prope rly adjus t the s us pe n-  
s ion s ys te m may re s ult in s us pe ns ion malfunction, which may caus e  
you to los e control and fall.  
!
!
CAUTION: Changing s us pe ns ion adjus tme nt can change the handling  
and braking characte ris tics of your bicycle . Ne ve r change s us pe ns ion  
adjus tme nt unle s s you are thoroughly familiar with the s us pe ns ion s ys -  
te m manufacture r's ins tructions and re comme ndations , and always  
che ck for change s in the handling and braking characte ris tics of the  
bicycle afte r a s us pe ns ion adjus tme nt by taking a care ful te s t ride in a  
hazard-fre e are a.  
CAUTION: Not all bicycle s can be s afe ly re trofitte d with s ome type s of  
s us pe ns ion s ys te ms . Be fore re trofitting a bicycle with any s us pe ns ion,  
che ck with the bicycle 's manufacture r to make s ure that what you  
want to do is compatible with the bicycle 's de s ign.  
!
!
WARNING: If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may  
de ve lop als o incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nd-  
e d bike dips . You could los e control and fall if your s kill is not up to  
handling this s ys te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys -  
te m s afe ly be fore trying any downhill or ve ry fas t mountain biking.  
65  
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Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your  
bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you  
must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own  
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice.  
Proceed carefully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full  
capabilities of your bike.  
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S
ERVICE AND  
NOTE: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle components  
more complex than ever before, and the pace of innovation is increasing.  
This ongoing evolution makes it impossible for this manual to provide all the  
information required to properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle. In order  
to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical  
that you have any repair or maintenance which is not specifically described  
in this manual performed by your dealer.  
7
M
AINTENANCE  
Equally important is that your individual maintenance requirements will  
be determined by everything from your riding style to geographic location.  
Consult your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements.  
How much of your bikes service and maintenance you can do yourself  
depends on your level of skill and experience, and on whether you have the  
special tools required.  
WARNING: Many bicycle s e rvice and re pair tas ks re quire s pe cial knowl-  
e dge and tools . Do not be gin any adjus tme nts or s e rvice on your bicycle  
if you have the s lighte s t doubt about your ability to prope rly comple te  
the m. Imprope r adjus tme nt or s e rvice may re s ult in damage to the  
bicycle or in an accide nt which can caus e s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
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If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike,  
you have three options:  
1. Ask your dealer whether copies of the manufacturers installation and  
service instructions for the components on your bike are available.  
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.  
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle  
repair courses in your area.  
Regardless of which option you select, we recommend that you ask your  
dealer to check the quality of your work the first time you work on some-  
thing and before you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did every-  
thing correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there  
may be a modest charge for this service.  
A. SERVICE & MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE  
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the  
owner, and require no special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented  
in this manual.  
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The following are examples of the type of service you should perform  
yourself. All othe r s e rvice , mainte nance and re pair s hould be pe r-  
forme d in a prope rly e quippe d facility by a qualifie d bicycle  
me chanic us ing the corre ct tools and proce dure s s pe cifie d by the  
manufacture r.  
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break  
it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch  
or “seat” when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by  
your dealer. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C) will help you  
identify some things that need readjustment. But even if everything  
seems fine to you, its best to take your bike back to the dealer for a  
checkup. Dealers typically suggest you bring the bike in for a 30 day  
checkup. Another way to judge when its time for the first checkup is to  
bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or  
about 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use  
.
But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer  
before riding it again.  
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (see Section 4.C)  
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3. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or  
grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain,  
freewheel cogs and rear derailleur pulley bushings. Wipe off excess oil.  
Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best  
lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.  
4. After every long or hard ride or after 10 to 20 hours of riding:  
Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back.  
Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or  
backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose  
headset. Have your dealer check it.  
Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side.  
Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering,  
you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer check it.  
Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline  
of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel  
loose? If so, have your dealer check it.  
Take a look at the brake shoes. Starting to look worn or not  
hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust  
or replace them.  
Check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks?  
Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.  
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Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel  
between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the  
same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension  
and trueness.  
Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints, the  
handlebars, the stem and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks  
or discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate  
that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced.  
Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure,  
and tighten any which are not.  
WARNING: Like any me chanical de vice , a bicycle and its compone nts  
are s ubje ct to we ar and s tre s s . Diffe re nt mate rials and me chanis ms  
we ar or fatigue from s tre s s at diffe re nt rate s and have diffe re nt life  
cycle s . If a compone nts life cycle is e xce e de d, the compone nt can  
s udde nly and catas trophically fail, caus ing s e rious injury or de ath to  
the ride r. Scratche s , cracks , fraying and dis coloration are s igns of  
s tre s s -caus e d fatigue and indicate that a part is at the e nd of its us e -  
ful life and ne e ds to be re place d.  
!
5. As required:  
If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 4.C):  
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counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrels  
lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails the  
Mechanical Safety Check, have your dealer check the brakes.  
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear: the  
derailleur is out of adjustment. The cause may be as simple as cable  
stretch, in which case you can compensate by turning the shifter or  
derailleur cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Try shifting  
again. If 1/2 turn to a full turn of the cable adjusting barrel does not cure  
the problem, see your dealer.  
6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your  
bike to your dealer for a complete checkup.  
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G
ETTING  
Unless you’re going for a short ride in the neighborhood, or you can walk home  
or call someone to pick you up if something breaks, you should never go for a  
bike ride without the following emergency equipment:  
8
HOME WHEN  
SOMETHING  
BREAKS  
4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen wrenches, used to tighten various clamping  
bolts that may loosen  
Patch kit and a spare inner tube  
Tire levers  
Tire pump or cartridge inflator with correct head to fit your tire valves (see  
Section 6.G.2)  
Some kind of identification (so people know who you are in case of accident)  
A couple of dollars in cash (for a candy bar, cool drink or emergency  
phone call)  
1. If you ge t a flat tire : Depress the tire valve to let all the air out of the tube  
(see Section 6.G2). Remove the wheel from the bicycle (see Section 6.A.3 or  
4). Remove one bead of the tire from the rim by grasping it at a point opposite  
the valve stem with both hands and, at the same time, lifting and peeling one  
side of the tire off the rim. If the bead is on too tight for you to unseat it with  
your hands, use tire levers to lift the bead carefully over the tire rim. Remove  
the valve lock nut (if the valve has one) and push the valve stem through the  
wheel rim. Remove the inner tube.  
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Carefully check the outside and inside of the tire for the cause of the  
puncture and remove the cause if it is still there. If the tire is cut, line  
the inside of the tire in the area of the cut with something handy – tape,  
a spare patch, a piece of inner tube, a dollar bill – whatever will keep  
the cut from pinching the inner tube.  
Either patch the tube (follow the instructions in your patch kit), or use a  
new one.  
WARNING: Patching a tube is an e me rge ncy re pair. Care le s s patching  
or applying s e ve ral patche s can s e rious ly we ake n the tube , re s ulting  
in pos s ible tube failure , which could caus e you to loos e control and  
fall. Re place a patche d tube as s oon as pos s ible .  
!
Reinstall the tire and tube. Slip one tire bead over the rim. Insert the  
tube valve through its hole in the rim, but don’t secure it with the lock-  
nut yet. Feed the tube carefully into the cavity of the tire. Inflate the  
tube just enough to give it some shape. Starting at the valve stem and  
working around both sides of the rim to the side opposite the valve stem,  
use your thumbs to push and seat the other bead of the tire inside the  
rim. Be careful not to pinch the tube between the tire bead and the  
wheel rim. If you have trouble getting the last few inches of bead over  
the edge of the rim with thumb pressure, use a tire lever and be careful  
not to pinch the tube.  
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CAUTION: If you us e a s cre wdrive r or any tool othe r than a tire le ve r, you  
are like ly to puncture the tube .  
Check to make sure the tire is evenly seated around both sides of the rim and  
that the tube is inside the tire beads. Push the valve stem into the tire to  
make sure that its base is seated within the tires beads. Inflate the tube  
slowly to the recommended pressure (see Section 6.G), all the while checking  
to make sure that the tire beads stay seated in the rim. Screw down the valve  
stem locknut finger-tight. Secure the valve locknut (Presta valve). Replace the  
valve cap. Replace the wheel in the bike (see Section 6.A.3 or 4).  
!
!
WARNING: Riding your bicycle with a flat or unde rinflate d tire can  
s e rious ly damage the tire , tube , and bicycle , and can caus e you to los e  
control and fall.  
2. If you break a spoke:  
A wheel with a loose or broken spoke is much weaker than a fully tensioned  
wheel. If you break a spoke while on a ride, you will have to ride home  
much more slowly and carefully because the weakened wheel could break  
additional spokes and become useless.  
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WARNING: A broke n s poke s e rious ly we ake ns the whe e l and may  
caus e it to wobble , s triking the brake s or the frame . Riding with a  
broke n s poke can caus e you to los e control and fall.  
!
!
Twist the broken spoke around the spoke next to it to keep it from flop-  
ping around and getting caught between the wheel and the frame. Spin  
the wheel to see if the rim clears the brake shoes. If the wheel will not  
turn because it is rubbing against a brake shoe, try turning the brake  
cable adjusting barrel(s) clockwise to slacken the cable and open up the  
brakes (see Section 6.C.2). If the wheel still won’t turn, open the brakes  
quick release (see Figs. 16a through 16d) and secure any loose cable  
as best you can. Walk the bike, or if you must, ride it with e xtre me  
caution, because you now have only one working brake.  
3. If your bicycle sustains an impact:  
WARNING: A cras h or othe r impact can put e xtraordinary s tre s s  
on bicycle compone nts , caus ing the m to fatigue pre mature ly.  
Compone nts s uffe ring from s tre s s fatigue can fail s udde nly and  
catas trophically, caus ing los s of control, s e rious injury or de ath.  
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First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can.  
Seek medical help if necessary.  
Next, check your bike for damage, and fix what you can.  
Then, when you get home, carefully perform the checks described in  
Section 7.A.4 and check for any other damaged parts. All bent, scored  
or discolored parts are suspect and should be replaced.  
!
CAUTION: If you have any doubt about the condition of the bicycle or  
any of its parts , take it to your de ale r for a thorough che ck.  
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The variety of components and accessories available to enhance the comfort,  
performance and appearance of your bicycle is almost endless. Your dealer  
can help you select those that will work best for the kind of riding you do.  
U
PGRADING  
OUR IKE  
AND OUR  
QUIPMENT  
9
Even if you are an experienced rider, don’t assume you can properly install  
and operate these components or accessories without first reading any  
instructions that are enclosed with the product. Be sure to read, and under-  
stand, the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your  
bicycle. If you have the slightest doubt as to their suitability or about your  
ability to install them correctly, ask your dealer for help.  
Y
B
Y
E
WARNING: Failure to install and ope rate any acce ssory prope rly can  
re sult in se rious damage to the bicycle , and se rious injury or de ath to  
the ride r.  
1. Comfort and Convenience Accessories  
!
Once the bike fit (frame size, saddle position and angle, stem length and rise)  
is correct, the saddle becomes the single most important comfort accessory.  
The comfort of a bicycle saddle depends much more on how the saddle  
shape relates to the riders body than on the thickness or material of the  
padding. Bicycle manufacturers select a saddle shape based on their best  
guess of whats likely to be comfortable for most buyers of that particular  
bicycle model. But that doesnt mean its going to be the most comfortable  
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shape for you. Thats why your dealer stocks saddles which offer a variety  
of shapes, padding, covering materials and prices. If the saddle on your  
new bike is uncomfortable, ask your dealer to suggest an alternative.  
If you’re planning to spend an hour or more at a time on your bike, get a  
pair of cycling glove s. Their padded palms help keep your hands from  
getting numb from the vibration of the handlebars (the numbness, called  
carpal tunnel syndrome, can become quite painful if not taken care  
of), and they’ll provide some abrasion protection for your hands if you fall.  
Cycling s horts and cycling je rs e ys are both performance and comfort  
accessories. There are two kinds of cycling shorts: the traditional skin-  
tight Lycra shorts and loose-fit cycling shorts. Both are designed to  
reduce friction and chafing. The washable pad in the crotch of the  
shorts both cushions and protects against chafing. Wear them without  
underwear to avoid the undergarments bunching up and chafing. Also  
available are undergarments designed to reduce chafing when worn with  
regular street clothes. The jerseys have pockets in the back, so that the  
things you carry don’t bang around when you ride. Many are made of special  
materials with properties that improve riding comfort and performance.  
Its important to drink plenty of liquids before and during exercise. A  
water bottle is an essential companion on a longer ride.  
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Some basic tools are also useful. The minimum tool kit you will need to  
make adjustments, perform maintenance and handle emergency repairs  
should include:  
a set of Allen wrenches in 2mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm sizes  
a set of tire levers  
a 6 inch adjustable wrench  
a No. 1 Phillips screwdriver and a 1/4 inch flat blade  
screwdriver  
a tire pump  
a tire patching kit and a spare tire tube  
2. Performance Upgrades  
CAUTION: Changing the compone nts on your bike may void the  
warranty. To avoid voiding your warranty, che ck with your de ale r  
be fore changing the compone nts on your bike .  
!
The most popular way to improve the performance of a bicycle is to  
substitute higher priced drivetrain or brake components. Before attempt-  
ing to upgrade your drivetrain or brakes, make sure that the components  
you plan to install are fully compatible with the rest of the components  
on your bike. Your dealer can help you determine component compatibil-  
ity and resolve compatibility conflicts.  
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Another popular way to improve the performance of a bicycle is to sub-  
stitute lighter weight “racing” components. Lighter wheels, tires, handle-  
bars and so on can enhance the performance of your bike; but you must  
always keep in mind that light weight racing components are not intend-  
ed to have the life expectancy of their heavier counterparts, and you  
must therefore exercise extra care in checking for signs of stress fatigue  
(See Section 7.4)  
Suspension forks are also a popular component upgrade. Before  
installing a suspension fork on a non-suspension bike or installing a fork  
with different travel or geometry characteristics than the original fork on  
the bicycle, you must make sure that the frame is designed to take the  
change in geometry and the changes in stress characteristics which the  
change in fork can cause. Ask your dealer to check with the bikes man-  
ufacturer—or check with the manufacturers technical support staff  
yourself—before installing a different fork on your bicycle.  
WARNING: Sus pe ns ion forks , particularly the “double clamp” and  
“triple clamp” de s igns favore d by downhill race rs , put e xtraordinary  
s tre s s e s on the he ad tube and front part of the bicycle frame which  
the frame s de s ign may not be able to handle . Such s tre s s e s can  
re s ult in s udde n, catas trophic frame failure , which can caus e s e rious  
injury or de ath.  
!
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Disc brakes are becoming a more common mountain bike performance  
upgrade. Most front suspension forks are designed to accept a disc  
brake, and can take the added stresses at the brake mounting points. Be  
sure that the fork you are using is designed to accept disc brake stress-  
es. Most bicycle frames, however, were not designed for the stresses  
which a rear disc brake can put on the seatstay or chainstay. Before  
attempting to install a rear disc brake, ask your dealer to check with the  
bikes manufacturer—or check with the manufacturers technical support  
staff yourself—o make sure that the frame can absorb the localized  
stresses at the disc brakes mounting points.  
WARNING: Re ar dis c brake s put e xtraordinary s tre s s e s on the s e at-  
s tay or chains tay, which the frame s de s ign may not be able to han-  
dle . Such s tre s s e s can re s ult in s udde n, catas trophic frame failure ,  
which can caus e s e rious injury or de ath.  
!
Your dealer has many other comfort and performance accessories that  
can increase your cycling enjoyment.  
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Your dealer is here to help you get the bike and accessories which are  
most appropriate for the kind of riding that you intend to do; and to help  
you maintain your equipment so that you can get the maximum enjoy-  
ment from it. Your bike shop's staff has the knowledge, tools and expe-  
rience to give you reliable advice and competent service. Your dealer  
carries the products of a variety of manufacturers so that you can have  
the choices which best meet your needs and your budget.  
A
BOUT YOUR  
10  
DEALER  
But your dealer's staff can't make decisions for you; nor can they  
assume responsibility for your lack of knowledge, experience, skill or  
common sense.They can explain to you how something works, or what  
part or accessory will meet your special needs, but they can't know your  
questions or your needs unless you tell them.  
If you have a problem with your bike or your riding, talk to your dealer.  
Make sure that the dealer understands your problem or question, and  
make sure that you really understand the answers.  
83  
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C
ANNONDALE-SPECIFIC  
I
NFORMATION  
I
MPORTANT  
Like any sport, cycling is not without risk. Be sure to follow the safety  
guidelines below each time you ride. Failure to follow these instructions  
could cause an accident and possible serious injury or death.  
A.  
S
AFETY  
Read this manual in its entirety, and familiarize yourself with your  
bicycle and its controls before riding.  
INFORMATION  
WARNINGS:  
Note that bicycle s are lightwe ight human powe re d ve hicle s . Unlike a  
car, much like a motorcycle , the re is no re s traint s ys te m for your body,  
no prote ctive s tructure around your body. Cras hworthine s s is not a  
de s ign crite ria. A ride r s its on a bicycle and can be e as ily thrown off  
for many re as ons including ove rly hard us e of the front brake s (s e e  
s e ction 6.C.) or s triking an obs tacle .  
!
Always do the pre -ride che cklis t (Se e back cove r).  
We ar a he lme t at all time s whe n riding a bicycle .  
Ride with traffic, ne ve r agains t it.  
Ke e p your s pe e d unde r control, maintain a s te ady cours e , and avoid  
s we rving. Dont s tunt ride .  
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Ne ve r ride double or carry package s that obs truct your vie w or inhibit  
your control of the bicycle .  
Avoid riding at night, or in incle me nt we athe r. If you mus t ride at night,  
we ar re fle ctive clothing and e quip your bicycle with front and re ar  
lights . Make s ure your bicycle is e quippe d with re fle ctors . If you ge t  
caught in a s howe r, re me mbe r that braking dis tance s incre as e in we t  
we athe r, while vis ibility and tire traction de cre as e . Che ck your s tate  
laws . Lights are re quire d for riding at dus k, night, or dawn.  
Eve ry Cannondale bicycle frame and the compone nts attache d to the  
frame have a finite , limite d us e ful life . The le ngth of that life will vary  
with the cons truction and mate rials us e d in the frame and compone nts ,  
the mainte nance and care the frame and compone nts re ce ive ove r the ir  
life and the type and amount of us e the frame and compone nts are  
s ubje ct to. Us e in compe titive e ve nts , trick riding, ramp riding, jumping,  
aggre s s ive riding, riding on s e ve re te rrain, riding in s e ve re climate s ,  
riding with he avy loads , comme rcial activitie s and othe r type s of non-  
s tandard us e can dramatically s horte n the life of the frame and compo-  
ne nts . Any one or a combination of the s e conditions may re s ult in an  
unpre dictable failure . ALL FRAMES AND COMPONENTS SHOULD BE  
PERIODICALLY CHECKED BY AN AUTHORIZED CANNONDALE RETAILER  
for indicators of s tre s s and/ or pote ntial failure , including cracks , de for-  
mation, corros ion, paint pe e ling, de nts , and any othe r indicators of  
pote ntial proble ms , inappropriate us e or abus e . The s e are important  
!
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s afe ty che cks and ve ry important to he lp pre ve nt accide nts , bodily injury  
to the ride r and s horte ne d product life . (s e e s e ction 7.A.4 and A)  
Note that ge ne rally s pe aking, lightwe ight frame s and compone nts have  
s horte r live s . For e xample , all as pe cts of us e be ing ide ntical, a light-  
we ight CAAD4 frame will have a s horte r life than a he avie r CAAD1 frame .  
In s e le cting lightwe ight frame s and compone nts you are making a trade -  
off, favoring the highe r pe rformance that come s with light we ight ove r  
longe vity. So, If you choos e lightwe ight, high pe rformance e quipme nt,  
be s ure to fre que ntly ins pe ct it as de s cribe d above .  
Riding a cracke d frame could le ad to comple te bicycle failure . Like othe r  
high-pe rformance s tructure s , this frame s hould be ins pe cte d pe riodically  
for cracks . Pay particular atte ntion to the unde rs ide of the downtube  
whe re it inte rs e cts the he ad tube (Se e fig. A, le ft). Wipe the tube cle an  
and care fully e xamine the s urface . Ins pe ct mountain bike s with particu-  
lar care , s ince the y are routine ly s ubje cte d to de manding conditions . DO  
NOT ride a bike with any crack, e ve n a s mall one . Se e your authorize d  
re taile r or call 1-800-BIKE-USA. Make ins pe ctions for fatigue -re late d  
cracks a part of your normal s e rvice s che dule .  
Toptube  
Headtube  
Downtube  
Inspect this area.  
fig. A  
Have all acce s s orie s mounte d by your Authorize d Cannondale Re taile r.  
Poorly or imprope rly mounte d acce s s orie s can adve rs e ly affe ct the  
pe rformance of your bicycle . Be s ure that any acce s s ory your or your  
authorize d re taile r fits to your bike doe s not block or inte rfe re with  
re quire d CPSC re fle ctors .  
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Exe rcis e caution with chainrings and pointe d, aggre s s ive platform pe dals ,  
as the y have s harp and pote ntially dange rous s urface s .  
If you have features (such as suspension or brake systems) not covered by  
this manual, you should have a supplement included with your manual. If you  
suspect that supplements might be missing, contact your Authorized  
Cannondale Retailer, or call us at one of the numbers listed on the back cover.  
CAUTION: Cannondale urge s cons ume rs not to ins tall “Bar Ends ” on bicycle s .  
Some handle bars are de s igne d to take the adde d s tre s s of bar e nds , othe rs  
are not. Ve ry lightwe ight handle bars may be particularly poorly s uite d for  
bar e nds . If you want bar e nds , cons ult your Authorize d Cannondale Re taile r  
about s uitable choice s , re ad and follow ins tructions and warnings that  
accompany the handle bars and bar e nds , and ins pe ct the handle bars and bar  
e nds re gularly.  
!
!
Be care ful whe n making tight turns . Be aware that many s mall frame s ize  
bicycle s with 700c whe e ls , s uch as racing, touring and hybrid, may not  
have cle arance be twe e n the toe clips and the front tire . Avoid s uch  
contact, which could dis tract you, dis rupt your turn or caus e a fall.  
(s e e s e ction E.)  
WARNING: Downhill mountain biking can le ad to s e rious accide nts . We ar  
appropriate s afe ty ge ar and be s ure your bike is in pe rfe ct condition.  
Follow all ins tructions be low. EVEN WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART PROTECTIVE  
SAFETY GEAR YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY INJURED OR KILLED whe n doing  
downhill riding.  
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WHEN RIDING WITH CHILDREN  
Cannondale urge s cons ume rs not to ins tall child carrie rs on bicycle s .  
Only qualifie d and e xpe rie nce d me chanics s hould ins tall frame -  
mounte d acce s s orie s on bicycle s .  
Us e caution whe n riding with a child carrie r. Child carrie rs add we ight  
to the re ar, and rais e the bicycle s ce nte r of gravity, making balance  
and corne ring more difficult.  
Cannondale e ncourage s the us e of traile rs for carrying childre n.  
Be ve ry care ful whe n towing a bicycle traile r. Re me mbe r that braking  
dis tance s incre as e , and the traile r will track ins ide the line of the  
bicycle whe n making turns .  
Childre n s hould ALWAYS we ar he lme ts whe n riding in a child carrie r  
or be ing towe d in a bicycle traile r. Note that the us e of bicycle  
he lme ts on childre n is re quire d by law in many are as .  
Ke e p childre n away from bicycle s mounte d on s tationary traine rs ,  
e ve n whe n the bicycle is not in us e . Spinning whe e ls attract  
childre ns atte ntion, and pre s e nt a s e rious ris k to young finge rs .  
Childre n have als o be e n known to rotate cranks by hand on bicycle s  
le ft unatte nde d on s tationary traine rs , putting the ms e lve s at ris k of  
s e rious injury.  
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M
OUNTAIN  
If your bike has s us pe ns ion, the incre as e d s pe e d you may de ve lop als o  
incre as e s your ris k. Whe n braking, the front of a s us pe nde d bike dips .  
You could have a bad accide nt if your s kill is not up to handling this  
s ys te m. Ge t to know how to handle your s us pe ns ion s ys te m we ll  
be fore trying any downhill or ve ry fas t biking.  
B.  
B
IKE SAGE  
U
To ride downhill at speed or in competition is to voluntarily assume a very  
large risk. When riding downhill such as at a ski area, on trails or access  
roads, or on dirt roads such as fire roads, you can reach speeds seen on  
motorcycles, with similar hazards and risks. WEAR APPROPRIATE SAFETY  
GEAR, including an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body  
armor. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualified  
mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders  
and race officials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where  
you plan to ride downhill.  
Likewise, suspension will increase the handling capabilities and comfort of  
your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster. But do  
not confuse the enhanced capabilities of a suspension bike with your own  
capabilities. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed care-  
fully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full capabilities of  
your bike.  
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While the rugged appearance of mountain bikes might suggest that  
they’re indestructible, they are not. Certainly, they are tough and sturdy.  
But as with any machine, abuse will soon take a toll on its ability to per-  
form. More specifically, be sure to avoid:  
Jumping. Jumping a mountain bike is fun, but it puts incredible stress on  
everything from your spokes to your pedals. Perhaps most vulnerable to  
jumping-related damage is your front fork. Riders who insist on jumping  
their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as themselves.  
Riding through water. The so-called “sealed” components (such as head-  
sets, bottom brackets and hubs) are effective at keeping mud and grit out  
of your bearings. Water, however, is a different story. Any mountain bike  
that is exposed to large amounts of water will require a complete bearing  
overhaul to prevent extensive – and expensive – damage.  
Shifting gears under extreme pedaling pressure. Like jumping, shifting  
under extreme pedaling pressure puts an incredible amount of stress on  
components. While most components can withstand an occasional “power  
shift,” continual power shifting will most assuredly damage some part of  
your drivetrain. Whenever possible, ease up on your pedals when shifting.  
Land access, responsible riding, and the IMBA code. Don’t take land  
access for granted. Your actions on your next ride will influence which  
trails will be open for bicycle use in the years to come. Minimizing  
skidding, avoiding muddy areas, and being courteous to hikers and  
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equestrians are simple things we can all do on every ride to keep the land  
open to bicycles. And if you’re feeling ambitious, voluntary trail maintenance  
and packing out others’ trash will benefit everyone.  
The International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) has established  
these guidelines for good trail riding:  
Ride on open trails only.  
Leave no trace.  
Control your bicycle.  
Always yield the trail.  
Never spook animals.  
Plan ahead.  
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PREVENTING CORROSION:  
O
THER  
MPORTANT  
OTES  
C.  
Periodically clean your frame with soap and water. After cleaning and drying it is a good  
idea to lightly coat the water bottle bosses with a water displacing lubricant such as  
CODA Dry wax, Tri-Flow or WD40 to minimize corrosion from sweat and salt. This is  
particularly important on bicycles used in coastal salt air environments and those  
drenched in sweat on an indoor trainer.  
I
N
DO NOT MODIFY YOUR FRAME:  
Do not physically alter your frame in any way. Don’t sandblast, shotblast or glass bead your  
frame. Don’t use any sandpaper coarser than 150 grit in preparing a frame for refinishing.  
Don’t grind, wire brush or file your frame. Don’t weld, braze or let anyone touch your frame  
with a torch. Don’t drill any holes in your frame. Don’t acid dip or etch your frame. Don’t  
anodize or chrome plate your frame. Any of these procedures will seriously harm the  
structural integrity and/or longevity of your frame, which could lead to serious accident and  
injury. Any of the above procedures will void the warranty on your frame.  
A WORD ON HYBRID BIKES (ALSO KNOWN AS CROSS BIKES):  
Some may claim that hybrid bikes are “all-purpose bikes,” equally at home on road or  
trail. This is not true. Hybrids work well on roads or bike paths that are relatively smooth  
and hard packed, such as cinders, good dirt roads, and “rails-to-trails” paths. Hybrids  
are not intended or designed for off-road use, such as trails, “single track,” with logs,  
rocks, roots, or loose dirt. Hybrids are not mountain bikes.  
CAR RACKS THAT USE BIKE FORK DROPOUTS FOR MOUNTING  
Use care to be sure that both fork dropouts are engaged in the rack before clamping. If only  
one dropout is engaged and the bike tips over, the leverage can exert great force that may  
damage the dropout. If your bike tips over, have the dropouts examined by a retailer.  
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PROPER USE OF BICYCLE REPAIR STANDS  
When using clamp-style bicycle repair stands, be sure to clamp your Cannondale  
bicycle by the seatpost. DO NOT CLAMP YOUR BICYCLE BY ANY OF THE FRAME  
TUBES. The frame tubes on Cannondale bicycles are crafted from high-performance,  
thin-walled tubing that can be damaged by clamp-style bicycle repair stands.  
TORQUE FORCE SPECIFICATIONS  
Handlebar binder bolt:  
Stem binder bolt:  
150-180lb in or 170-200kgf cm  
175-260lb in or 200-300kgf cm  
100-120lb in or 115-140kgf cm  
150-180lb in or 170-200kgf cm  
175-350lb in or 200-400kgf cm  
130-210lb in or 150-250kgf cm  
Stem-to-steerer binder:  
Seat binder bolt:  
Saddle clamp bolts:  
Wheel axle nuts:  
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P
RE-RIDE  
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? Twist the handlebars firm-  
ly from side to side while holding the front wheel between your knees.  
The stem must not move in the steering tube. Similarly, the seatpost  
must be secure in the seat tube.  
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at dusk, dawn or at night,  
you must make yourself visible to motorists through the use of front and  
rear lights. Reflectors alone do not provide adequate visibility. Also, give  
strong consideration to wearing reflective clothing.  
D.  
C
HECKLIST  
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your braking distances will  
increase, and your tires’ grip on the road will decrease. Also, remember  
that motorists’ visibility decreases with inclement weather.  
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must inflated to the recommended  
pressure in order to provide maximum performance.  
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Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate equipment and clothing,  
such as protective glasses and gloves? Do not wear loose clothing that could  
become entangled in the bicycle.  
Are your wheels’ quick-release skewers properly fastened? Be sure to read the  
section on proper operation of quick-release skewers (see section 6).  
Are your front and rear brakes functioning properly? With cantilever brakes  
(on mountain bikes, hybrids, tandems, touring), the straddle cable must be  
attached. With caliper brakes (road bikes), the quick-release must be closed.  
The brake pads must contact the rim firmly without the brake levers hitting  
the handlebar.  
If you have any re as on to s us pe ct that your bicycle is not functioning  
prope rly, DO NOT RIDE IT. Ins te ad, have it ins pe cte d by your Authorize d  
Cannondale Re taile r. To locate your ne are s t Authorize d Cannondale  
Re taile r, call 1-800-BIKE-USA.  
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T
OE  
C
LIP  
WARNING: Toe clip ove rlap could caus e you to los e control of your bike .  
Che ck your bicycle for toe clip ove rlap. If you have any que s tions , che ck  
with your re taile r be fore you ride .  
E.  
O
VERLAP  
If you have toe clip overlap, the toe clip may be able to contact the front tire  
(or front fender) when the pedal and toe clip are all the way forward and the  
front wheel is turned to a position where the toe clip can contact the tire.  
Toe clip ove rla p is a s itua tion whe re the toe clip ma y be a ble to con-  
ta ct the front tire (or front fe nde r) whe n the pe da l a nd toe clip a re a ll  
the wa y forwa rd a nd the front whe e l is turne d to a pos ition whe re the  
toe clip ca n conta ct the tire .  
!
Toe clip ove rlap is common on s mall frame s ize bicycle s . On all bicycle s ,  
have the ins ide pe dal up be fore be ginning a turn. As you turn to the le ft,  
the ins ide (le ft) pe dal s hould be pos itione d at twe lve oclock. As you  
turn to the right, the ins ide (right) pe dal s hould be pos itione d at twe lve  
oclock. Having the ins ide pe dal up will pre clude any toe clip-to-tire con-  
tact and maximize corne ring ground cle arance .  
If you ride with cliple s s pe dals , clip your riding s hoe s into the pe dals  
and che ck for front tire cle arance .  
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R
EADING  
F.  
The serial number on your Cannondale bicycle  
consists of a series of numbers and letters engraved  
into the underside of the bottom bracket. Contained  
in the serial number are codes representing the date  
of manufacture, frame style and size, color, and  
one sequence of numbers which is unique to  
your bicycle.  
Y
OUR  
S
ERIAL  
fig. C  
Late Model Serial  
Number Location. When  
referring to your serial  
number, use the eight  
digit number in one of  
the two locations  
indicated, in this  
case, 18-037914.  
NUMBER  
Cable guide  
location  
Please take a few minutes to record your bicycles  
serial number (fig. B) for your own records, and to  
fill out and send in the warranty registration card  
located in the front of this book. Late model bikes  
will have the serial number printed adjacent to a bar  
code label (fig. C) on the bottom bracket shell. Please  
record that eight digit number. It is important that we  
are able to contact you regarding your bicycle.  
However, you should still keep your serial number  
and original sales receipt on file in a safe place, in  
case of theft. Its your only proof of purchase to your  
insurance company and the police, and it makes any  
claim easier to process.  
GJ  
B1-030 18014  
SER# 18-037914  
149158  
6FL5WM  
OR  
123456A  
9DMNS1LG  
fig. B  
Serial Number Location. When  
referring to your serial number,  
use the top number, in this case,  
GJ-B1-030-18014.  
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C
ANNONDALE  
The specific warranty covering your Cannondale bicycle is governed by the  
country in which it was purchased, and applies only to bicycles purchased  
from Authorized Cannondale Retailers.  
G.  
W
ARRANTIES  
&
CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED  
THROUGH AUTHORIZED RETAILERS IN THE U.S.A.  
DISTRIBUTORS  
FRAME: Cannondale frames (except downhill) are warranted by Cannondale  
Corporation, 16 Trowbridge Drive, Bethel, CT 06801 against manufacturing  
defects in materials and/or workmanship for the lifetime of the original owner.  
Cannondale downhill frames are warranted against manufacturing defects in mate-  
rials and/or workmanship for a period of one year from the date of original retail  
purchase.  
COMPONENTS: All other components, including HeadShok forks, suspen-  
sion parts, frame fixtures and finishes (paint and decals) are warranted  
against manufacturing defects in materials and/or workmanship for a period  
of one year from the date of original retail purchase. Suspension forks (other  
than those made by Cannondale) are not covered by this warranty, but are  
separately covered by the stated warranty of their manufacturer.  
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TERMS OF WARRANTY:  
• This warranty is not meant to suggest or imply that the bicycle cannot  
be broken or will last forever. It does mean that the bicycle is covered  
subject to the terms of the warranty.  
• This warranty only applies to the original owner of a Cannondale  
bicycle and is not transferable to subsequent owners.  
• For any warranty claim to be considered, the bicycle must be brought  
in to an Authorized Cannondale Bicycle Retailer in assembled condition  
and accompanied by the original, dated sales receipt for the bicycle. (Be  
sure to keep your receipt in a safe place.)  
• This warranty only applies to bicycles purchased in fully assembled and  
adjusted condition from Authorized Cannondale Retailers or other outlets  
specifically authorized by Cannondale to distribute Cannondale bicycles.  
• This warranty is void if the bicycle is subjected to abuse, neglect,  
improper repair, alterations, modifications, an accident or other abnormal,  
excessive, or improper conditions.  
• Damage resulting from normal wear and tear, including the results of  
fatigue, is not covered. Fatigue damage is a symptom of the frame being  
worn out through use. It is one kind of wear and tear. See section A.  
• Damage resulting from improper assembly or maintenance, or from  
installation of parts and accessories not compatible with the Cannondale  
bicycle is not covered.  
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All labor charges for warranty service are the responsibility of the  
bicycles owner.  
• During the acceptable duration of this warranty, Cannondale will either  
repair any defective frame, or, at our option, replace any defective frame  
with the same or most nearly comparable model then available. THIS IS  
THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY UNDER THIS WARRANTY. ANY AND ALL  
OTHER REMEDIES THAT MAY OTHERWISE BE APPLICABLE ARE  
EXCLUDED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, INCIDENTAL OR  
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.  
THIS IS THE ONLY WARRANTY MADE BY CANNONDALE ON ITS  
FRAMES AND COMPONENTS. ANY WARRANTIES THAT MAY OTHER-  
WISE BE IMPLIED BY LAW INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY  
IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A  
PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE LIMITED TO THE APPLICABLE DURATION  
OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY.  
Please refer to the documents included with your bicycle for possible  
further restrictions.  
This Limited Warranty gives the consumer specific legal rights. The  
consumer may also have other legal rights which vary from state to state.  
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or  
consequential damages or limitations on how long implied warranties  
last, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you.  
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CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED  
THROUGH AUTHORIZED RETAILERS IN EUROPE  
Please see page 97 of this manual for Cannondales warranty policy. If you have  
further questions, please contact:  
Cannondale Europe B.V., Pos tbus 5100, Hanze poort 27  
7570 GC Olde nzaal, Ne the rlands , 011-31-541-573-580  
AUTHORIZED EUROPEAN DISTRIBUTORS  
CROATIA: Spectral D.O.O., Gajdekova 20, 10000-Zagreb, tel: (385) 1 433 309,  
fax: (385) 1 455 0981 CZECH REPUBLIC: Vokolek Import, Rezlerova 308, 10900 Prague  
10, tel: (42) 2 692 3399 GREECE: Cannondale Hellas, 304 Thivon Street, Egaleo, Athens,  
tel: (30) 5392716, (30) 2512779, fax: (30) 2533960 ESTONIA/LATVIA/LITHUANIA:  
Hawaii Express Ltd., Regati 1 5KE-102, tel: 372-6398508, fax: 372-6398566  
HUNGARY: Mali Bicycle Technology, JPM k.f.t., Jegenyefasor 1-3, 1184 Budapest,  
tel/fax: 36 1 420 7563 MALTA: Seafront Enterprises Ltd., 106 Islets Promenade, Buggiba,  
tel: 356-573866, fax: 356-573992 POLAND: S.S.C. Poland, Traugutta Str. 81A, 50418  
Wroclaw, tel: (48) 71 725 448, fax: (48) 71 343 1539 PORTUGAL: Bicigal, Rua S.  
Gonçalo de Lagos, 6, r/c Esq., 2560 Torres Vedras, tel: (351) 61 311758, fax: 351 61  
315637 SLOVENIA: Sport Trade 2000, Sport Trade 2000, Dunajska 217, 1000 Ljubljana,  
tel/fax: (386) 611 686 012 TURKEY: Velespit, Bagdat Cad, Rustiye Sk. No., 81030  
Kiziltoprak, Istanbul, tel: (90) 216 337 9660, fax: (90) 216 345 7750  
Note: Authorized European Distributor list subject to change without notice.  
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CANNONDALE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BICYCLES PURCHASED  
THROUGH AUTHORIZED INTERNATIONAL RETAILERS/ DISTRIBUTORS  
Please see page 97 of this manual for Cannondales warranty policy. If you have  
further questions, please contact the distributor where you purchased your bicycle:  
AUTHORIZED INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTORS  
AUSTRALIA: Cannondale Australia, PO Box 445, Mona Vale, N.S.W. 2103, Australia, 612  
9979 5851, cannondaleaustralia@cannondale.com BERMUDA: The New Winners Edge, 34  
Church Street, Hamilton HM11, Bermuda, 441 295 6012 BOLIVIA: Visal Import & Export,  
C.Ballivian/Potosi EDIF, Salvatiorra 1ER.PISO, CASILLA 561,SANTA CRUZ, 591 334 7145 ◆  
BRAZIL: Anderson Bicicletas, Rua Alonso Calhamares 70, Tatuapé, Sao Paulo, Brasil, 55 11 247  
20 99 CHILE: Inversiones Lerur Ltda., Avenida las Condes, 12270 #101, Santiago, Chile,  
South America, 562 215 3470 COLOMBIA: Sport and Bike, CRA 46 #16 Sur 36, El Poblado,  
Medellin, Antioquia, Colombia, 574 262 4211 COSTA RICA: Xcesso S.A., PO Box 407-2100  
San Jose, Costa Rica, 506 290 3382 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: Ramon H. Vicioso, Av. Bolivar  
453, Apartado 97, Santo Domingo, Republica Dominicana, 809 535 2565 ECUADOR: B.H.  
Ecuador CIA ltda., Caspar De Villaroel 665, Y 6 De Diciembre, 593 2 449729 GUAM: Hornet  
Bicycles, PO Box 8294, Tamuning, Guam 96911, 671 848 9191 GUATEMALA: Bike Center,  
18 Calle, 7-48, Zona 10, 01010, Guatemala City, Guatemala, 502 366 7708  
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SOUTH AFRICA: Cape Cycle Systems Ltd., PO Box 14684, Wetton 7790, Cape Town, tel:  
27 21 761 3528, fax: 27 21 761 5914 TAHITI: Pacific Cycles, Rue Marechal Foch, BP  
1535, Pepeete, Tahiti, tel/fax: 689-450-451 TAIWAN: Cash Crest, 1st Floor, #2., Lane 66,  
Huan Nan Road, Ping Chen City, Tao Yuan Hsien, Taiwan, 886 349 15050 THAILAND:  
Bikesports, 41 St. Louis 3, Soi Ging PLU, S. Sathorn Road., Sathorn, Bangkok 10120,  
Thailand, tel: 662-676-2217, fax: 662-676-3846, email: biksport@asiaaccess.net.th ◆  
VENEZUELA: Bici Bike, ED. Artelito, 2 DA. Avenida de Los Palos Grandes, Los Palos Grandes,  
Caracas, 1041, 582 286 0285 TRINIDAD: Motorcycles Etc., 89 Eastern Main Road,  
Barataria, Trinidad, W.I., tel: 868-675-2453, fax: 868-675-3816 VENEZUELA: Bike  
Sports-Centro Commercial, Planta Baja Local 3A, Calle Garcilazo, Colinas de Bello Monte,  
Venezuela, 582 751 9730, Bici Bike, Ed. Artelito, Local 5 (WNDCTR), Los Palos Grandes,  
Caracas, Venezuela 1041, tel: 582-286-0285, fax: 582-283-7466  
Note: Authorized International Distributor list subject to change without notice.  
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Y
OUR  
P
URCHASE ECORD  
R
It is important to keep a record of your bicycles  
serial number, and the date and place of purchase. Weve  
provided space below for you to keep this information.  
(Be sure to save your sales receipt.)  
Se rial Numbe r (s e e page 97 for location):  
Late model bikes will have the serial number printed  
adjacent to a bar code label on the bottom bracket  
shell. Please write the eight digit number below:  
SER #  
Color:____________________ Size :__________  
Date of Purchas e : _______________________  
Name of Re taile r: _______________________  
Re taile r Addre s s : _______________________  
Purchas e Price : _________________________  
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PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST  
Are you visible to motorists? If you are riding at dusk, dawn  
or at night, you must make yourself visible to motorists  
through the use of front and rear lights. Reflectors alone do  
not provide adequate visibility. Also, give strong consideration  
to wearing reflective clothing.  
Are you wearing a helmet and other appropriate equipment and  
clothing, such as protective glasses and gloves? Do not wear  
loose clothing that could become entangled in the bicycle.  
Are your wheels’ quick-release skewers properly fastened? Be  
sure to read the section on proper operation of quick-release  
skewers (section 6).  
Is it raining or wet? If so, be more cautious. Your braking  
distances will increase, and your tires’ grip on the road will  
decrease. Also, remember that motorists’ visibility decreases  
with inclement weather.  
Are your front and rear brakes functioning properly? With can-  
tilever brakes (on mountain bikes, hybrids, tandems, touring), the  
straddle cable must be attached. With caliper brakes (road bikes),  
the quick-release must be closed. The brake pads must contact  
the rim firmly without the brake levers hitting the handlebar.  
Are your tires properly inflated? Tires must be inflated to  
the recommended pressure in order to provide maximum  
performance.  
Are your seatpost and stem securely fastened? Twist the handle-  
bars firmly from side to side while holding the front wheel  
between your knees. The stem must not move in the steering  
tube. Similarly, the seatpost must be secure in the seat tube.  
If you have any reason to suspect that your bicycle is not  
functioning properly, DO NOT RIDE IT. Instead, have it  
inspected by your Authorized Cannondale Retailer.  
This cover is printed on recycled paper.  
Cannondale Customer Service: http://www.cannondale.com  
USA: Call 1-800-BIKE USA, Fax: 814-623-6173.  
Europe: Call 31-541-573580, Fax: 31-5415-14240.  
Japan: Call 0722-99-9399, Fax: 0722-93-6166.  
Australia: Call 61-2-9979-5851, Fax: 61-29979-5688.  
In other locations, call your Authorized Cannondale Retailer.  
©
1999 Cannondale Corporation, Bethel, CT 06801. Version 90501299.  
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