Brother Sewing Machine CS 80 User Manual

S2_BrotherE_cover  
DIC181p  
K
ENGLISH  
885-S06  
XC5247-0211  
Printed in China  
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S2_brotherE_Cover2.fm Page A Tuesday, March 30, 2004 1:36 PM  
Enclosed Accessories  
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged,  
contact your retailer.  
Accessories  
Note  
(For U.S.A. only)  
Foot controller: Model N5V  
This foot controller can be used on this machine model CS-8060/CS-80.  
The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.  
(Part code: XA4813-051)  
1.  
2.  
3.  
4.  
5.  
6.  
7.  
8.  
9.  
10.*  
20.  
11.  
21.  
12.  
22.  
13.  
23.  
14.  
15.  
24.  
16.  
25.  
17.  
18.  
19.  
* 75/11 2 needles  
90/14 2 needles  
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)  
Part Code  
Part Code  
No.  
Part Name  
No.  
Part Name  
U.S.A.  
Others  
U.S.A.  
Others  
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Buttonhole foot “A”  
Overcasting foot “G”  
Monogramming foot “N”  
Zipper foot “I”  
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)  
Blind stitch foot “R”  
Button fitting foot “M”  
XC2691-051  
XC3098-051  
X53840-351  
X59370-051  
XC3021-051  
XC4051-051  
X59375-151  
14 Screwdriver  
XC4237-021  
15 Spool cap (large)  
16 Spool cap (small)  
17 Extra spool pin  
18 Spool net  
19 Foot controller  
20 Thread cassette (on machine)  
130012-054  
130013-154  
XC3834-021  
XA5523-050  
XC1154-021  
XC3664-021  
Spool cap (orange)  
(on machine)  
8
Seam ripper  
X54243-001  
21  
XC3673-021  
9
Bobbin (4)  
SA156 XA5539-151  
X58358-051  
22 Needle-changing tool  
23 Operation manual  
24 Quick reference guide  
25 Spool cap (special)  
XC4551-021  
XC5247-021  
XC5256-021  
XA5752-021  
10 Needle set  
11 Twin needle  
12 Cleaning brush  
13 Eyelet punch  
X59296-051  
X59476-051  
135793-051  
Cover A  
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions  
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the  
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.  
Front view  
1
2
E
D
3
C
B
A
4
?
5
6
9
8
7
7
1 Thread cassette compartment cover  
9 Operation buttons  
Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine  
and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)  
2 Thread cassette compartment  
Insert a thread cassette into the thread cassette  
compartment.  
0 Operation panel  
Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation  
panel. (page Cover E)  
3 Thread cassette eject lever  
Press this lever to eject the installed thread cassette.  
A Bobbin winder  
4 Thread tension dial  
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.  
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the  
upper thread.  
B Bobbin thread spool pin  
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto this spool  
pin in order to wind the bobbin.  
5 Thread cutter  
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.  
C Bobbin storage compartment  
6 Arm  
Store the bobbins designed specifically for this sewing  
machine in this compartment.  
7 Flap  
Use the flap to create a table. When the sewing  
machine is not being used, store the machine with the  
flap folded up. Remove the flap to sew cylindrical  
pieces such as sleeve cuffs.  
D Bobbin winder cover  
Open this cover when winding the bobbin.  
E Thread guide for bobbin winding  
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding  
the bobbin thread.  
8 Sliding leg  
Pull out the sliding leg during free-arm sewing.  
Cover B  
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———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions  
Right-side/rear view  
Needle and presser foot  
section  
1
1
2
2
3
3
7
7
6
4
4
6
5
5
1 Buttonhole lever  
1 Handle  
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes  
and bar tacks.  
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when  
transporting the machine.  
2 Needle bar thread hook  
2 Balance wheel  
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread  
hook.  
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower  
the needle to sew one stitch.  
3 Needle plate  
3 Main power switch  
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing  
straight seams.  
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine  
on and off.  
4 Bobbin cover/shuttle  
4 Power supply jack  
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin  
into the shuttle.  
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power  
supply jack.  
5 Feed dogs  
5 Foot controller jack  
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.  
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable  
into the foot controller jack.  
6 Presser foot  
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the  
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate  
presser foot for the selected stitching.  
6 Air vent  
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be  
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing  
machine is being used.  
7 Presser foot holder  
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.  
7 Feed dog position switch  
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.  
Memo  
G Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you  
are learning to use your machine.  
Cover C  
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S2_brotherE.book Page D Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM  
Operation buttons  
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.  
1
2
7
3
6
5
4
1 Thread cassette indicator  
6 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button  
The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the  
condition of the sewing machine.  
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew  
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse  
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to  
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches  
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.  
For details, refer to Securing the stitching(page 47).  
Green:  
Red:  
Off:  
A thread cassette can be inserted.  
A thread cassette cannot be inserted.  
The sewing machine has been turned off  
or a thread cassette is already inserted.  
2 Thread cutter button  
(Only for models equipped  
7 Sewing speed controller  
with the thread cutter button)  
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing  
speed.  
Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to  
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,  
refer to Cutting the thread(page 49).  
CAUTION  
3 Needle position button  
G Do not press the thread cutter button after  
the threads have already been cut, otherwise  
the needle may break, the threads may  
become tangled or damage to the machine  
may occur.  
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the  
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.  
4 Start/stop button  
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The  
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of  
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is  
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,  
refer to Starting to sew(page 45).  
Note  
G Do not press the thread cutter button if there  
is no fabric under the presser foot or while  
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to  
the machine may occur.  
5 Presser foot lever  
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower  
the presser foot.  
G When cutting thread thicker than #30,  
nylon thread or other special threads, use  
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.  
For details, refer to Cutting the thread”  
(page 49).  
Cover D  
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S2_brotherE.book Page E Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM  
———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions  
Operation panel  
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and sliders for  
specifying how the stitch will be sewn.  
1
2
4 5  
6
3
7 8  
9
1 Stitches  
There are 50 stitches. Select stitch 00-49.  
A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number.  
2 Stitch indicator / 3 Stitch selection key  
Press the stitch selection key, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. 50 stitches are available. For  
details, refer to Selecting Stitching(page 58).  
4 Stitch length adjutment indicator/ 5Stitch length adjustment button / 6Stitch length adjustment slider  
These are used to adjust the length of the stitch. After pressing the stitch length adjustment button so that the indicator  
lights up, slide the stitch length adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length.  
7 Stitch width adjustment indicator / 8Stitch width adjustment button / 9Stitch width adjustment slider  
These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position. After pressing the stitch width adjustment button so  
that the indicator lights up, slide the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width.  
Cover E  
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Optional Accessories  
The following are available as optional accessories.  
1.  
2.  
3.  
4.  
5.  
1. Side cutter  
Part code: SA177, XC3879-002  
2. Quilting guide  
Part code: SA132, XC2215-002  
3. Guide foot  
Part code: SA133, XC1957-002  
4. Walking foot  
Part code: SA140, XC2214-002  
5. Quilting foot  
Part code: SA129, XC1948-002  
Memo  
G To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized  
service center.  
1
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Introduction  
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.  
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the Important Safety Instructions(page 6), and then study this  
manual for the correct operation of the various functions.  
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future  
reference.  
Sewing Machine Features  
2
1
3
4
1 Thread cassette  
Easily thread the upper thread by loading a spool of thread into the thread cassette. In addition, simply insert the thread  
cassette into the compartment to thread the needle.  
2 Simple bobbin-winding  
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 12)  
3 Built-in stitches  
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches. (page 58)  
4 One-touch lower threading  
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 16)  
2
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Contents  
Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................Cover A  
Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A  
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B  
Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B  
Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C  
Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C  
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D  
Operation panel ...................................................................................................................................... Cover E  
Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1  
Introduction ........................................................................................................................2  
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................2  
Contents ..............................................................................................................................3  
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6  
GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9  
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................10  
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10  
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11  
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...........................................................................................12  
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 12  
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12  
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 16  
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................18  
About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................ 18  
Loading the spool into the thread cassette ....................................................................................................... 19  
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 22  
Using the extra spool pin ................................................................................................................................ 24  
Thread the needle manually  
(without using the needle threader) ................................................................................................................. 25  
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 26  
Pulling up the bobbin thread ........................................................................................................................... 29  
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................30  
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 30  
Needle types and their uses ............................................................................................................................. 30  
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 31  
Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 32  
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................35  
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 35  
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 35  
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 37  
Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 38  
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces ..................................................................................................40  
Free-arm sewing .............................................................................................................................................. 40  
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———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................41  
Sewing ...............................................................................................................................42  
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 43  
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 44  
Starting to sew ................................................................................................................................................. 45  
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 47  
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 49  
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................50  
Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 50  
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................51  
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 51  
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 52  
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................53  
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 53  
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 53  
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 53  
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 54  
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 55  
Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 55  
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 55  
UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................57  
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................58  
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 58  
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................60  
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot G................................................................................... 60  
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot J............................................................................................. 61  
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 62  
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................64  
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 64  
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................65  
Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................67  
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 68  
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 71  
Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................73  
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 73  
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 74  
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................77  
Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 77  
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 77  
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................79  
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 80  
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 81  
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 81  
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 82  
Free-motion quilting ........................................................................................................................................ 83  
Reinforcement Stitching ....................................................................................................85  
Triple stretch stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 85  
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 85  
Eyelet Stitching ..................................................................................................................87  
Decorative Stitching ..........................................................................................................88  
Fagoting .......................................................................................................................................................... 89  
Scallop stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 90  
Smocking ........................................................................................................................................................ 90  
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 91  
Heirloom stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 92  
4
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APPENDIX .......................................................................................................95  
Stitch Settings ....................................................................................................................96  
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 96  
Maintenance ....................................................................................................................100  
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 100  
Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 100  
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................102  
Error messages .................................................................................................................106  
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 106  
Changing the needle stop position ...................................................................................107  
Index ...............................................................................................................................108  
5
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Important Safety Instructions  
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:  
Read all instructions before using.  
DANGER  
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:  
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine  
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.  
WARNING  
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:  
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is  
used by or near children.  
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories  
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.  
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has  
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized  
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.  
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the  
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.  
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.  
6. Do not use outdoors.  
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being  
administered.  
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol {position which represents off, then  
remove plug from outlet.  
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.  
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.  
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.  
12. Do not use bent needles.  
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.  
14. Switch the machine to the symbol {position when making any adjustments in the needle  
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and  
the like.  
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or  
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.  
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without  
supervision.  
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.  
18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.  
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS  
This machine is intended for household use.  
6
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY  
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.  
IMPORTANT  
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut  
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in  
the plug.  
NOTE  
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is  
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse  
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the  
mark, rating as marked on plug.  
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.  
WARNING  
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE  
LETTER E, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL  
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.  
The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:  
Blue  
Neutral  
Live  
Brown  
As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored  
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.  
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter  
Nor colored black or blue.  
The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter  
Lor colored red or brown.  
7
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE  
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully  
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.  
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE  
For safe operation  
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-  
up lever, needle, or other moving parts.  
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:  
Operation is completed  
Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts  
A power failure occurs during use  
Maintaining the machine  
Leaving the machine unattended  
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.  
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.  
For a longer service life  
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or  
store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.  
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders  
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.  
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.  
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser  
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.  
For repair or adjustment  
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in  
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,  
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.  
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com  
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1
GETTING READY  
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.  
Turning the Machine On/Off .................................................................................10  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...............................................................................12  
Upper Threading ....................................................................................................18  
Replacing the Needle .............................................................................................30  
Replacing the Presser Foot .....................................................................................35  
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces .......................................................................................40  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Turning the Machine On/Off  
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.  
Power supply precautions  
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.  
WARNING  
G Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may  
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.  
G Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:  
When you are away from the machine  
After using the machine  
When the power fails during use  
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection  
During electrical storms  
CAUTION  
G Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to  
them. Fire or electric shock may result.  
G Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.  
G When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to  
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric  
shock.  
G Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,  
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These  
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,  
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.  
G Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a  
fire may result.  
10  
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Turning on the machine  
Turning off the machine  
When you are finished using the sewing machine,  
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing  
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.  
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned  
off (the main power switch is set to O), and  
then plug the power supply cord into the  
power supply jack on the right side of the  
machine.  
1
1
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.  
1
Press the left side of the main power switch on  
the right side of the machine (set it to {).  
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a  
household electrical outlet.  
2
2
1
X The sewing lamp goes off when the  
machine is turned off.  
Unplug the power supply cord from the  
electrical outlet.  
3
1 Power supply jack  
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power  
supply cord.  
Press the right side of the main power switch  
3
on the right side of the machine (set it to |).  
Unplug the power supply cord from the  
power supply jack.  
4
Note  
G If a power outage occurs while the sewing  
machine is being operated, turn off the  
sewing machine and unplug the power  
supply cord. When restarting the sewing  
machine, follow the necessary procedure to  
correctly operate the machine.  
X The sewing lamp comes on when the  
machine is turned on.  
Fold the flap at the front of the sewing  
machine down toward you.  
4
(For U.S.A only)  
G This appliance has a polarized plug (one  
blade wider than the other). To reduce the  
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended  
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If  
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,  
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,  
contact a qualified electrician to install the  
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any  
way.  
Turning the Machine On/Off 11  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin  
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.  
Bobbin precautions  
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.  
CAUTION  
G Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing  
machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.  
G The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older  
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or  
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).  
Actual size  
11.5 mm  
(7/16 inch)  
This model  
Older model  
Winding the bobbin  
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
Swing up the bobbin thread spool pin.  
Move the bobbin thread spool pin up as far as  
possible.  
1
3
1
Open the bobbin winder cover at the top on  
the right side of the sewing machine.  
2
1 Bobbin thread spool pin  
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft  
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the  
notch in the bobbin.  
4
1
2
1 Notch  
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring  
12  
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Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.  
CAUTION  
5
G Two spool cap sizes are available,  
allowing you to choose a spool cap that  
best fits the size of spool being used. If  
the spool cap is too small for the spool  
being used, the thread may catch on the  
slit in the spool or the needle may break.  
1
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto  
the bobbin thread spool pin.  
6
Note  
G If a spool of thread 12 mm (1/2 inch) in  
diameter and 75 mm (3 inch) high is  
inserted onto the bobbin thread spool pin,  
use the special spool cap.  
Slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread  
spool pin.  
7
With the rounded side of the spool cap  
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap  
onto the bobbin thread spool pin as far as  
possible until the right side of the spool  
touches the right end of the bobbin thread  
spool pin.  
2
1
1 12 mm (1/2 inch)  
2 75 mm (3 inch)  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 13  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
While using your left hand to hold the end of  
9
Memo  
the thread that wraps around the thread guide  
for bobbin winding, use your right hand to  
wind the free end of the thread clockwise  
around the bobbin five or six times.  
G When using thread that winds off quickly,  
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic  
thread, place the enclosed spool net over  
the spool before placing the spool of thread  
onto the spool pin.  
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the  
size of the spool.  
1
4
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through  
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.  
0
3
2
1 Spool net  
2 Spool  
3 Spool pin  
4 Spool cap  
1
1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)  
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.  
Pull out some thread, and then thread the  
thread guide for bobbin winding.  
Hold the thread with both hands, and then  
securely pass the thread as far as possible into  
the two slits in the thread guide.  
8
CAUTION  
G Be sure to cut the thread as described. If  
the bobbin is wound without cutting the  
thread using the cutter built into the slit  
in the bobbin winder seat, the thread  
may become tangled in the bobbin or the  
needle may bend or break when the  
bobbin thread starts to run out.  
1
2
1 Thread guide for bobbin winding  
2 Two slits  
14  
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Slide the sewing speed controller to the right  
(so that the speed will be fast).  
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.  
a
e
1
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.  
f
1
1 Sewing speed controller  
Press  
(start/stop button) once.  
b
Remove the spool cap and spool.  
g
h
Swing down the bobbin thread spool pin,  
close the bobbin winder cover, and then slide  
the sewing speed controller back to its  
original position.  
1
1 Start/stop button  
Memo  
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is  
G When the sewing machine is started or the  
balance wheel is turned after winding the  
thread around the bobbin, the machine will  
make a clicking sound; this is not a  
malfunction.  
wound around the bobbin.  
X The bobbin spins slowly when it is full.  
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly,  
c
d
press  
(start/stop button) once.  
X The sewing machine stops.  
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread  
wound around the bobbin.  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 15  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Remove the bobbin cover.  
2
Installing the bobbin  
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and  
hold the end of the thread with your left.  
3
Install the bobbin wound with thread.  
CAUTION  
G Use a bobbin thread that has been  
correctly wound, otherwise the needle  
may break or the thread tension will be  
incorrect.  
Be careful not to drop the bobbin.  
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the  
thread unrolls to the left.  
4
G The bobbin was designed specifically for  
this sewing machine. If bobbins from  
older models are used, the machine will  
not operate correctly. Use only the  
enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same  
type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).  
Actual size  
Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.  
11.5 mm  
(7/16 inch)  
CAUTION  
This model  
Older model  
G Be sure to hold down the bobbin with  
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread  
correctly, otherwise the thread may  
break or the thread tension will be  
incorrect.  
Memo  
G The order that the bobbin thread should be  
passed through the needle plate is indicated  
by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to  
thread the machine as indicated.  
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right  
5
hand, and then guide the thread as shown  
with your left hand.  
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.  
1
1
2
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and  
then pull the thread out toward the front.  
6
1
1 Bobbin cover  
2 Latch  
X The bobbin cover opens.  
1 Cutter  
X The cutter cuts the thread.  
16  
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Reattach the bobbin cover.  
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the  
7
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on  
the right side.  
2
1
1
X The lower threading is finished.  
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with  
the procedure in Upper Threading(on the  
next page).  
Memo  
G You can begin sewing without pulling up  
the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the  
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull  
up the thread according to the procedure in  
Pulling up the bobbin thread(page 29).  
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 17  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Upper Threading  
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are  
described.  
CAUTION  
G When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is  
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.  
When using the extra spool pin, attach either the  
large or small white spool cap, depending on the  
About the spool of thread  
size of the spool. Use the spool cap with a diameter  
With this sewing machine, a spool of thread can be  
that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool.  
loaded into the enclosed thread cassette, and then  
the thread cassette can be threaded. Information  
about the spools of thread is described below.  
1
2
I Spools that can be loaded into the thread  
cassette  
Normally, a spool of thread is loaded into the  
thread cassette and used. The spools that can be  
loaded must have a diameter smaller than the  
orange spool cap and a height shorter than the  
mark on the cover of the thread cassette.  
1
3
3
1 Spool cap (large)  
2 Spool cap (small)  
3 Spool  
1
Memo  
G For details on using the extra spool pin,  
refer to “Using the extra spool pin”  
(page 24).  
2
G When using a spool of cross-wound thread,  
install the small white spool cap with some  
space between the cap and the spool.  
1 Spool cap (orange)  
2 Spool  
3 Mark on thread cassette compartment cover  
I Spools that cannot be loaded into the thread  
cassette  
When using spools that cannot be loaded into the  
thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool pin.  
1
2
3
1 Spool cap (small)  
2 Gap  
3 Spool  
18  
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CAUTION  
Loading the spool into the  
thread cassette  
G Two spool cap sizes are available,  
allowing you to choose a spool cap that  
best fits the size of spool being used. If  
the spool cap is too small for the spool  
being used, the thread may catch on the  
slit in the spool or the needle may break.  
Load the spool of thread into the enclosed thread  
cassette to prepare the upper thread.  
1
Memo  
G The order for threading the thread cassette is  
indicated on the thread cassette. Also check  
the markings on the thread cassette while  
threading it.  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
1
Open the thread cassette compartment cover  
at the top on the left side of the machine.  
2
Upper Threading 19  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left  
side of the machine toward the back.  
Place the spool for the upper thread onto the  
spool pin.  
3
6
Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the  
thread unwinds from the left, as seen from the  
top.  
1
1
1 Thread cassette eject lever  
1 Spool  
X The thread cassette is raised.  
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.  
With the rounded side of the spool cap  
positioned toward the top, slide the spool cap  
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the  
down side of the spool touches the down end  
of the spool pin.  
• If the sewing machine is turned off, the  
thread cassette will not be ejected  
correctly.  
7
Remove the thread cassette.  
4
• Only the orange spool cap should be placed  
on the spool pin in the thread cassette.  
CAUTION  
Pull the cover of the thread cassette out  
toward you, and then pull off the spool cap  
that is inserted onto the spool pin.  
5
G If the spool or the spool cap is not  
positioned correctly, the thread may  
become tangled around the spool pin or  
the needle may break.  
1
2
3
1 Spool cap (orange)  
2 Spool pin  
3 Cover  
20  
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While holding the end of the thread with your  
right hand and the thread cassette with your  
left hand, close the cover.  
• When using special thread such as metallic  
thread, use the thumb of your left hand to  
press down on the area indicated in the  
illustration to create an opening that allows  
for easier threading.  
8
1
1
2
Pass the thread through the slit in the top of  
9
1 Push  
2 Gap  
the thread cassette.  
Follow arrow 2 indicated on the thread  
cassette.  
Pass the thread along the bottom of the thread  
cassette.  
a
Follow arrow 4 indicated on the thread  
cassette.  
Pull the thread to the left and pass it through  
the slit along the left side of the thread  
0
cassette.  
Pass the thread through the notch in the  
lower-right corner of the thread cassette, and  
then pull the thread to the left.  
Follow arrow 5 indicated on the thread  
cassette.  
b
Follow arrow 3 indicated on the thread  
cassette.  
1
1 Notch  
Upper Threading 21  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Pull the thread under the disc at the front in  
the lower-left corner and around to the right,  
c
Threading the needle  
and then cut the thread with the cutter.  
In this section, the procedures for installing the  
Follow arrow 6 indicated on the thread  
thread cassette and threading the needle are  
cassette.  
described. The needle threader is used to thread the  
needle at the same time that the thread cassette is  
inserted.  
Memo  
G The needle threader can be used with  
sewing machine needles 75/11 through  
100/16.  
G Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or less  
1
cannot be used with the needle threader.  
G The needle threader cannot be used with  
2
the wing needle or the twin needle.  
G If the needle threader cannot be used, refer  
to “Threading the needle manually”  
(page 25).  
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit  
up in green.  
1
1
1 Disc  
2 Cutter  
X The spool of thread is now loaded in the  
thread cassette.  
Note  
G Be sure to cut the thread as described  
above, otherwise the needle threader  
cannot be used to thread the needle.  
1 Thread cassette indicator  
If the thread cassette indicator is lit up in red,  
the needle has not been raised to the correct  
position. Press  
(needle position button)  
once to raise the needle.  
1
1 Needle position button  
22  
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• If the needle is not raised to the correct  
position, the needle cannot be threaded with  
the needle threader. Be sure to check that  
the thread cassette indicator is lit up in green  
before inserting the thread cassette.  
1
1
Insert the thread cassette into the thread  
cassette compartment.  
Slowly press down on the thread cassette until  
2
1 Needle bar thread hook  
it clicks into place.  
X At the same time that the thread cassette is  
inserted, the needle is threaded.  
X The thread cassette indicator goes off.  
• If the needle could not be threaded or the  
thread was not passed through the needle  
bar thread hook, refer to “ Loading the spool  
into the thread cassette” (page 19) and  
perform the procedure again starting from  
step  
2
.
CAUTION  
G The needle threader is operated when the  
needle is threaded. Be sure to keep your  
hands and other items away from the  
needle, otherwise injuries may occur.  
Raise the presser foot lever, carefully pull on  
3
the loop of thread passed through the eye of  
the needle to pull out the end of the thread.  
Carefully pull the loop of thread toward the  
rear of the machine.  
1
1 Push here  
Pass the thread through the presser foot, and  
then pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)  
of thread toward the rear of the machine.  
4
1
1 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)  
X The upper threading is finished.  
Upper Threading 23  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Close the thread cassette compartment cover.  
5
Using the extra spool pin  
When using spools with a size that cannot be loaded  
into the thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool  
pin.  
X Now that the upper threading and the lower  
threading are finished, you are ready to  
begin sewing.  
Place the spool of thread onto the extra spool  
pin.  
1
1
2
Note  
G When inserting the thread cassette into its  
compartment, slowly press it down.  
G If the sewing machine could not be  
threaded, try performing the procedure  
again starting from loading the spool of  
thread into the thread cassette.  
1 Extra spod pin  
2 Spool  
Slide the spool cap for the size of the spool  
onto the spool pin.  
2
1
1 Spool cap  
• For more details, refer to “About the spool of  
thread” (page 18).  
Insert the tabs on the extra spool pin into the  
holes on the top of the thread cassette.  
3
24  
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Thread the thread cassette with the thread  
from the spool on the extra spool pin.  
4
Thread the needle manually  
(without using the needle threader)  
When using special thread, thread with a thickness  
of 130/20 or less, the wing needle or the twin needle  
which cannot be used with the needle threader,  
thread the needle as described below.  
1
Remove the needle.  
• Refer to “ Replacing the needle” (page 32).  
1
• When using the wing needle, the twin  
needle or thread that cannot be used with  
the needle threader, be sure to remove the  
needle, otherwise the machine may be  
damaged.  
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit  
up in green, and then insert the thread cassette  
into the thread cassette compartment.  
• For more details, refer to “Loading the spool  
into the thread cassette” (page 19).  
2
• For details, refer to  
(page 22).  
1
through  
2
Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool  
pin attached) into the thread cassette  
5
compartment.  
Use both hands to press down on both sides of  
the extra spool pin.  
X Pass the thread through the needle bar  
thread hook.  
1
1 Needle bar thread hook  
Install a needle.  
• Refer to “ Replacing the needle” (page 32).  
3
4
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle  
from front to back.  
X At the same time that the thread cassette is  
inserted, the needle is threaded.  
X The extra spool pin is now installed.  
Upper Threading 25  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Load the spool for the second thread color  
onto the extra spool pin.  
3
Using the twin needle  
Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel  
lines of the same stitch with two different colors.  
Both upper threads should have the same thickness  
and quality. Be sure to use the enclosed twin needle  
and the extra spool pin.  
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the  
twin needle, refer to “ Stitch Settings” (page 96).  
CAUTION  
G Only use the twin needle (Part code :  
X59296-051).  
Use of any other needle may bend the  
needle or damage the machine.  
• For more details, refer to steps  
in “Using the extra spool pin” (page 24).  
1
through  
4
G Never use bent needles. Bent needles can  
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.  
G Do not try installing the twin needle  
while the thread cassette is not installed,  
otherwise the needle may break or  
Use the two threads to thread the thread  
cassette, and then cut the threads.  
Thread the thread cassette along arrows 3  
through 6, indicated on the thread cassette.  
4
damage to the machine may result.  
Remove the needle.  
• For details, refer to “ Replacing the needle”  
(page 32).  
1
Load the spool for the first thread color into  
the thread cassette.  
2
Thread the thread cassette up to arrow 2,  
indicated on the thread cassette.  
• For more details, refer to steps  
0
through  
c
in “Loading the spool into the thread  
cassette” (page 19).  
• For more details, refer to steps  
1
through  
9
in “Loading the spool into the thread  
cassette” (page 19).  
26  
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Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool  
pin attached) into the thread cassette  
compartment.  
Remove the thread for the right side of the  
stitch from the needle bar thread hook, and  
then use it to thread the right needle.  
5
8
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.  
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer  
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 35).  
9
CAUTION  
• For more details, refer to step  
the extra spool pin” (page 24).  
5
in “Using  
G When using the twin needle, be sure to  
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the  
needle may break or the machine may be  
damaged.  
X Pass both threads through the needle bar  
thread hook.  
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the  
needle threader is used with the twin needle,  
the sewing machine may be damaged.  
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a  
0
stitch.  
Install the twin needle.  
• For details, refer to “Replacing the needle”  
(page 32).  
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to  
“ Selecting stitching” (page 58).  
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn  
with the twin needle, refer to “ Stitch  
Settings” (page 96).  
6
7
Manually thread the left needle with the  
thread for the left side of the stitch.  
• For details, refer to “Thread the needle  
manually” (page 25).  
• Select a stitch width of 5,0 mm (3/16 inch) or  
less.  
CAUTION  
G When using the twin needle, be sure to  
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise  
the needle may break or the machine  
may be damaged.  
G Slect a stitch width of 5,0 mm (3/16 inch)  
or less, otherwise the needle may break  
or the machine may be damaged.  
G After adjusting the stitch width, slowly  
turn the balance wheel toward you and  
check that the needle dose not touch the  
presser foot.  
If the needle hits the presser foot, the  
needle may break or the machine may be  
damaged.  
Upper Threading 27  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Start sewing.  
• For details on starting to sew, refer to  
a
“Starting to sew” (page 45).  
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to  
each other.  
Note  
G When changing the sewing direction, press  
(needle position button) to raise the  
needle from the fabric, and then raise the  
presser foot lever and turn the fabric.  
CAUTION  
G Do not try turning the fabric with the  
twin needle left in the fabric, otherwise  
the needle may break or the machine  
may be damaged.  
28  
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Pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of the  
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward  
the rear of the machine.  
5
Pulling up the bobbin thread  
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,  
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.  
1
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.  
1
• Refer to steps  
1
through  
5
of “ Installing the  
bobbin” (page 16).  
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.  
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.  
2
Reattach the bobbin cover.  
6
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the  
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on  
the right side.  
While lightly holding the upper thread with  
3
2
your left hand, press  
(needle position  
button) twice to raise the needle.  
1
1
1 Needle position button  
X The bobbin thread is looped around the  
upper thread and can be pulled up.  
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull  
out the end of the bobbin thread.  
4
Upper Threading 29  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Replacing the Needle  
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.  
Needle precautions  
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these  
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to  
read and carefully follow the instructions below.  
CAUTION  
G Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or  
damage the machine.  
G Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.  
Needle types and their uses  
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the  
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.  
Thread  
Fabric Type/Application  
Broadcloth  
Size of Needle  
Type  
Size  
Cotton thread  
Synthetic thread  
6080  
Medium  
Taffeta  
weight  
75/11– 90/14  
fabrics  
Flannel,  
Gabardine  
Silk thread  
5080  
6080  
Lawn  
Georgette  
Challis, Satin  
Denim  
Cotton thread  
Synthetic thread  
Silk thread  
Thin  
65/9– 75/11  
fabrics  
5080  
3050  
Cotton thread  
Synthetic thread  
Silk thread  
Thick  
fabrics  
90/14– 100/16  
Corduroy  
Tweed  
50  
Jersey  
Ball point needle  
(golden colored)  
75/11– 90/14  
Stretch  
fabrics  
Thread for knits  
5060  
Tricot  
Cotton thread  
Synthetic thread  
Silk thread  
Easily frayed fabrics  
For top-stitching  
65/9– 90/14  
5080  
Synthetic thread  
Silk thread  
30  
90/14– 100/16  
30  
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Memo  
Checking the needle  
G The smaller the thread number, the thicker  
the thread, and the larger the needle  
number, the thicker the needle.  
G Use the ball point needle when sewing on  
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped  
stitches easily occur.  
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous  
since the needle may break while the machine is  
being operated.  
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the  
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance  
between the needle and the flat surface is even.  
1
G Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with  
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the  
fabric being sewn.  
G A 75/11 needle is already installed when  
the sewing machine is purchased.  
1
2
CAUTION  
G The appropriate fabric, thread and  
needle combinations are shown in the  
table on the previous page. If the  
1 Flat side  
2 Needle type marking  
combination of the fabric, thread and  
needle is not correct, particularly when  
sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with  
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the  
needle may bend or break. In addition,  
the stitching may be uneven or puckered  
or there may be skipped stitches.  
I Correct needle  
1
1 Flat surface  
I Incorrect needle  
If the distance between the needle and the flat  
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use  
a bent needle.  
1
1 Flat surface  
Replacing the Needle 31  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then  
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp  
4
Replacing the needle  
screw counterclockwise to remove the  
needle.  
Replace the needle as described below. Use the  
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined  
1
to be straight according to the instructions in  
“Checking the needle”.  
Press  
(needle position button) once or  
1
twice to raise the needle.  
2
1 Screwdriver  
2 Needle clamp screw  
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening  
or tightening the needle clamp screw,  
otherwise certain parts of the sewing  
machine may be damaged.  
1
1 Needle position button  
Turn off the sewing machine.  
2
With the flat side of the needle toward the  
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it  
touches the needle stopper.  
5
1
CAUTION  
G Before replacing the needle, be sure to  
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise  
injuries may occur if the start/stop  
button is accidentally pressed and the  
machine starts sewing.  
1 Needle stopper  
Lower the presser foot lever.  
3
1
1 Presser foot lever  
32  
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While holding the needle with your left hand,  
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle  
clamp screw.  
I Using the needle-changing tool  
6
Use the enclosed needle-changing tool to replace  
the needle as described below.  
1
Install the twin needle in the same way.  
Pass the needle through the hole in the  
needle-changing tool.  
1
CAUTION  
G Be sure to insert the needle until it  
touches the needle stopper and securely  
tighten the needle clamp screw with the  
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may  
break or damage may result.  
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the  
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.  
2
Using the screwdriver, loosen the needle  
clamp screw.  
3
Replacing the Needle 33  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Lower the needle-changing tool.  
Insert the needle until it touches the needle  
stopper, and then use the screwdriver to  
tighten the needle clamp screw.  
4
7
X The needle can be removed from the needle  
bar.  
X The needle is installed.  
Insert the new needle into the hole in the  
needle-changing tool.  
Insert the needle with the flat side of the needle  
toward the rear of the machine.  
5
Lower the needle-changing tool off of the  
needle.  
8
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the  
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.  
6
34  
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Replacing the Presser Foot  
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.  
1
Presser foot precautions  
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.  
CAUTION  
G Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the  
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.  
G Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser  
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.  
Replacing the presser foot  
CAUTION  
Replace the presser foot as described below.  
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to  
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side  
cutter” (page 62).  
G Before replacing the presser foot, be sure  
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise  
injuries may occur if the start/stop  
button is accidentally pressed and the  
machine starts sewing.  
Press  
(needle position button) once or  
1
twice to raise the needle.  
Raise the presser foot lever.  
3
1
1
1 Needle position button  
X The needle is raised.  
1 Presser foot lever  
X The presser foot is raised.  
Turn off the sewing machine.  
2
Replacing the Presser Foot 35  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Press the black button at the back of the  
presser foot holder.  
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the  
presser foot is securely attached.  
4
7
1
2
1 Black button  
2 Presser foot holder  
X The presser foot holder releases the presser  
Note  
foot.  
G For details on the presser foot that should be  
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch  
Settings” (page 96).  
Place a different presser foot below the holder  
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the  
notch in the holder.  
5
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating  
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is  
positioned to be read.  
1
3
2
1 Presser foot holder  
2 Notch  
3 Pin  
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the  
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the  
presser foot holder.  
6
1
1 Presser foot lever  
X The presser foot is attached.  
36  
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Hold the presser foot holder in place with  
your right hand, and then tighten the screw  
using the screwdriver in your left hand.  
2
Removing the presser foot  
holder  
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the  
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that  
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the  
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the  
presser foot holder.  
1
I Removing the presser foot holder  
Remove the presser foot.  
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
1
1 Screwdriver  
foot” (page 35).  
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot  
holder screw.  
Note  
2
G If the presser foot holder is not correctly  
installed, the thread tension will be  
incorrect.  
2
1
3
1 Screwdriver  
2 Presser foot holder  
3 Presser foot holder screw  
I Attaching the presser foot holder  
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-  
left side of the presser bar.  
1
Replacing the Presser Foot 37  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
CAUTION  
Using the optional walking  
foot  
G Be sure to securely tighten the screw  
with the screwdriver, otherwise the  
needle may touch the presser foot,  
causing it to bend or break.  
G Before starting to sew, slowly turn the  
balance wheel toward you and check  
that the needle does not touch the  
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser  
foot, the needle may bend or break.  
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed  
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser  
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard  
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing  
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when  
quilting.  
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.  
Note  
G When sewing with the walking foot, sew at  
a speed between slow and medium.  
I Attaching the walking foot  
Remove the presser foot holder.  
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser  
I Removing the walking foot  
1
foot holder” (on the previous page).  
Press  
(needle position button) once or  
1
twice to raise the needle.  
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot  
2
onto the needle clamp screw.  
1
1
2
1 Needle position button  
X The needle is raised.  
1 Connecting fork  
2 Needle clamp screw  
Turn off the sewing machine.  
2
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser  
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw  
3
with the screwdriver.  
1
1 Presser foot holder screw  
38  
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Raise the presser foot lever.  
3
1
1
1 Presser foot lever  
X The presser foot is raised.  
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot  
holder screw, and then remove the walking  
4
foot.  
1
1 Presser foot holder screw  
Attach the presser foot holder.  
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser  
5
foot holder” (page 37).  
Memo  
G Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement  
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used  
with the walking foot. For details on the  
stitches, refer to “ Stitch Settings” (page 96).  
Replacing the Presser Foot 39  
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces  
Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.  
Then, install the flap back to its original  
position.  
5
Free-arm sewing  
Removing the flap allows for free-arm sewing,  
making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as  
sleeve cuffs and pant legs.  
Slide the flap off to the left.  
1
X With the flap removed, free-arm sewing is  
possible.  
Pull the sliding leg (at the bottom of the  
machine) out toward you.  
2
1
1 Sliding leg  
• During free-arm sewing, be sure to pull out  
the sliding leg.  
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the  
arm, and then sew from the top.  
3
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,  
push the sliding leg back into position.  
4
40  
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2
SEWING BASICS  
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.  
Sewing ....................................................................................................................42  
Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................50  
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...................................................................51  
Useful Sewing Tips .................................................................................................53  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Sewing  
Basic sewing operations are described below.  
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.  
CAUTION  
G While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,  
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise  
injuries may occur.  
G Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the  
needle may break.  
G Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.  
G Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or  
bend.  
42  
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General sewing procedure  
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
Turn on the  
machine.  
1
2
3
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “ Turning on the machine”  
(page 11).  
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.  
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “ Selecting stitching” (page 58).  
Select the stitch.  
2
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.  
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
Attach the presser  
foot.  
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric  
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of  
4
Position the fabric. the fabric are aligned correctly.  
For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric”  
(page 44).  
Start sewing.  
5
6
Start sewing.  
For details on starting to sew, refer to “ Starting to sew” (page 45).  
Cut the thread at the end of sewing.  
For details on cutting the thread, refer to “ Cutting the thread” (page 49).  
Cut the thread.  
Sewing 43  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Positioning the fabric  
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct  
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric  
are aligned correctly.  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
1
Lower the presser foot lever.  
5
The straight stitch (left needle position) is  
automatically selected.  
Press  
(needle position button) once or  
2
twice to raise the needle.  
1
1 Presser foot lever  
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.  
1
1 Needle position button  
Place the fabric under the presser foot.  
3
4
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the  
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier  
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.  
While holding the end of the thread and the  
fabric with your left hand, turn the balance  
wheel toward you with your right hand to  
lower the needle to the starting point of the  
stitching.  
44  
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When the end of the stitching is reached,  
press (start/stop button) once.  
3
4
Starting to sew  
X The machine stops sewing with the needle  
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the  
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted  
using either the operation buttons or the foot  
controller.  
down (in the fabric).  
When you are finished sewing, raise the  
needle, and then cut the threads.  
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”  
(page 49).  
Using the operation buttons  
Sewing can be started and stopped using the  
operation button  
(start/stop button).  
Using the foot controller  
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot  
controller.  
2
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or  
right to select the desired sewing speed.  
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to  
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed  
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.  
1
Turn off the sewing machine.  
When connecting the foot controller, be sure  
1
to turn off the sewing machine in order to  
prevent the machine from accidentally being  
started.  
1
1 Sewing speed controller  
Press  
(start/stop button) once.  
2
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on  
the side of the sewing machine.  
2
1
1
1 Start/stop button  
X The machine starts sewing.  
1 Foot controller jack  
Note  
(For U.S.A. only)  
Foot controller: Model N5V  
This foot controller can be used on this  
machine model CS-8060/CS-80.  
• If you continue to hold the start/stop button  
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,  
the machine will sew at a slow speed.  
Sewing 45  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
When you are finished sewing, raise the  
needle, and then cut the threads.  
• For details, refer to “ Cutting the thread”  
(page 49).  
3
7
Memo  
G When the foot controller is plugged in, the  
start/stop button cannot be used to start or  
stop sewing.  
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or  
right to select the desired sewing speed.  
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to  
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed  
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.  
4
G When sewing is stopped, the needle  
remains lowered (in the fabric). The  
machine can be set so that the needle will  
stay up when sewing is stopped. For details  
on setting the machine so that the needle  
stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to  
“Changing the needle stop position”  
(page 107).  
CAUTION  
G Do not allow thread or dust to  
accumulate in the foot controller,  
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may  
occur.  
G Do not place objects on the foot  
controller, otherwise damage to the  
machine or injuries may occur.  
G If the machine is not to be used for a long  
period of time, unplug the foot  
controller, otherwise a fire or an electric  
shock may occur.  
1
1 Sewing speed controller  
• The speed set using the sewing speed  
controller is the foot controller’s maximum  
sewing speed.  
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly  
press down on the foot controller.  
Pressing down on the foot controller increases  
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the  
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.  
5
Slower  
Faster  
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.  
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too  
quickly.  
X The machine starts sewing.  
When the end of the stitching is reached,  
completely release the foot controller.  
6
X The machine stops sewing with the needle  
lowered (in the fabric).  
46  
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After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press  
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).  
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button  
held down until you reach the beginning of the  
stitching.  
3
Securing the stitching  
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at  
the end of an opening or where seams do not  
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement  
stitching to secure the end of the thread.  
Lower the needle into the fabric at the  
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the  
1
presser foot lever.  
2
1
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button  
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch  
button is held pressed, reverse stitches are  
sewn.  
After sewing back to the beginning of the  
stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement  
stitch button.  
4
5
X The machine stops sewing.  
Press  
(start/stop button) or press down  
2
on the foot controller.  
Press  
(start/stop button), or press down  
At this time, if the start/stop button is held  
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.  
on the foot controller.  
X The machine starts sewing in the normal  
sewing direction.  
1
1 Start/stop button  
When the end of the stitching is reached,  
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”  
(page 45).  
6
press  
(reverse/reinforcement stitch  
button).  
X The machine starts sewing.  
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button  
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.  
X
While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button  
is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.  
Sewing 47  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,  
I Sewing reinforcement stitches  
7
release  
(reverse/reinforcement stitch  
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag  
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,  
button).  
pressing  
(reverse/reinforcement stitch  
X The machine stops sewing.  
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches  
on top of each other.  
Press  
(start/stop button), or press down  
8
on the foot controller.  
At this time, if the start/stop button is held  
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.  
X The machine starts sewing in the normal  
sewing direction.  
2
1
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the  
sewing machine stops.  
Release the start/stop button or foot controller.  
9
1 Reverse stitching  
2 Reinforcement stitching  
1
Memo  
3
1
2
G Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement  
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that  
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch  
Settings” (page 96).  
5
6
4
2
1 Beginning of stitching  
2 End of stitching  
48  
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I Using the thread cutter button  
(Only for models equipped with the thread  
cutter button)  
Cutting the thread  
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.  
When using a model equipped with a thread  
cutter button, the thread can easily be cut if the  
button is pressed.  
When you wish to finish the stitching and the  
sewing machine is stopped, press  
1
When you wish to finish the stitching, press  
(needle position button) once to raise the  
needle.  
1
(thread cutter button) once.  
2
1
1
1 Needle position button  
X The needle is raised.  
1 Thread cutter button  
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.  
Raise the presser foot lever.  
Raise the presser foot lever.  
2
2
1
1
1 Presser foot lever  
1 Presser foot lever  
CAUTION  
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,  
3
and then pass the threads through the thread  
cutter to cut them.  
G Do not press the thread cutter button  
after the threads have already been cut,  
otherwise the needle may break, the  
threads may become tangled or damage  
to the machine may occur.  
1
Note  
G Do not press the thread cutter button if there  
is no fabric under the presser foot or while  
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to  
the machine may occur.  
1 Thread cutter  
G When sewing with thread thicker than #30,  
nylon or metallic threads, or other special  
threads, use the thread cutter on the side of  
the machine to cut the threads.  
Sewing 49  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Adjusting the Thread Tension  
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are  
equal.  
Turn the thread tension dial downward to loosen  
the upper thread.  
Changing the tension of the  
upper thread  
I Upper thread is too loose  
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side  
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.  
If the thread and needle combination is correct for  
the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle  
types and their uses” on page 30), the thread tension  
will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate  
setting. However, if the preset thread tension does  
not give the desired result or if you are sewing with  
special thread or on special fabric, use the thread  
tension dial on the left side of the machine to adjust  
the tension of the upper thread.  
5
1
2
I Correct thread tension  
3
4
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should  
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper  
thread should be visible from the right side of the  
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be  
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.  
1 Wrong side of fabric  
2 Right side of fabric  
3 Upper thread  
4 Bobbin thread  
5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of  
the fabric.  
1
Turn the thread tension dial upward to tighten the  
upper thread.  
2
Tight  
3
4
Loose  
1 Wrong side of fabric  
2 Right side of fabric  
3 Upper thread  
4 Bobbin thread  
1
I Upper thread is too tight  
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side  
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.  
1 Thread tension dial  
1
2
5
3
4
1 Wrong side of fabric  
2 Right side of fabric  
3 Upper thread  
4 Bobbin thread  
5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of  
the fabric.  
50  
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length  
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is  
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within  
which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 96).  
CAUTION  
Adjusting the stitch width  
G After adjusting the stitch width, slowly  
Press the stitch width adjustment button in  
the operation panel.  
turn the balance wheel toward you and  
check that the needle does not touch the  
1
2
X The stitch width adjustment indicator lights  
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser  
foot, the needle may bend or break.  
up.  
Slide the stitch width adjustment slider to the  
left or right.  
2
Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider to the  
right makes the stitch width wider; sliding the  
slider to the left makes the stitch width  
narrower.  
1
2
3
1 Stitch width adjustment indicator  
2 Stitch width adjustment button  
3 Stitch width adjustment slider  
I Changing the needle position  
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and  
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be  
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment  
slider to the right moves the needle to the right;  
sliding the slider to the left moves the needle to  
the left.  
• To automatically select the stitch width most  
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the  
stitch width adjustment button again.  
Adjusting the Thread Tension/Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length  
51  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Adjusting the stitch length  
Press the stitch length adjustment button in  
the operation panel.  
1
X The stitch length adjustment indicator lights  
up.  
Slide the stitch length adjustment slider to the  
left or right.  
2
Sliding the stitch length adjustment slider to  
the right makes the stitching coarser; sliding  
the slider to the left makes the stitching finer.  
1
2
4
3
5
1 Stitch length adjustment indicator  
2 Stitch length adjustment button  
3 Stitch length adjustment slider  
4 Straight stitch  
5 Zigzag stitch  
• To automatically select the stitch length most  
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the  
stitch length adjustment button again.  
CAUTION  
G If the stitches are bunched together,  
increase the stitch length. Continuing to  
sew with the stitches bunched together  
may result in the needle bending or  
breaking.  
52  
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Useful Sewing Tips  
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when  
sewing your project.  
Trial sewing  
Sewing curves  
After you have set up the machine with the thread  
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being  
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread  
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that  
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be  
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and  
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be  
achieved.  
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing  
direction to sew around the curve. For details on  
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to  
“ Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 55).  
2
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread  
that are the same as those used for your project, and  
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.  
Since the results differ depending on the type of  
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,  
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions  
that will be used with your project.  
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag  
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain  
a finer stitch.  
Changing the sewing  
direction  
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the  
sewing machine.  
1
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the  
needle remained up when the machine  
stopped sewing, press  
(needle position  
button) to lower the needle.  
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the  
fabric.  
2
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.  
Lower the presser foot lever and continue  
sewing.  
3
Useful Sewing Tips 53  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
CAUTION  
Sewing thick fabrics  
G If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)  
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed  
with too much force, the needle may  
bend or break.  
I If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot  
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser  
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to  
bring the presser foot to its highest position.  
I If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does  
not feed at the beginning of stitching  
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that  
keeps the presser foot level.  
1
1 Sewing direction  
When you encounter a seam that is too thick  
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot  
1
lever.  
Press the black button on the left side of the  
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the  
2
presser foot.  
Release the button. The foot will lock in place  
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to  
3
feed.  
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the  
foot will return to its normal position.  
54  
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Sewing thin fabrics  
Sewing an even seam  
allowance  
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become  
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If  
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material  
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.  
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess  
paper.  
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam  
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the  
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge  
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.  
I Aligning the fabric with the presser foot  
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser  
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.  
2
1
2
1
1 Stabilizer material or paper  
1 Seam  
2 Presser foot  
Sewing stretch fabrics  
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then  
sew without stretching the fabric.  
I Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking  
The markings on the needle plate show the  
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn  
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew  
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with  
a marking in the needle plate. The distance  
between the markings in the upper scale is  
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the  
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).  
1
5
1 Basting  
4
3
1
2
6
1 Seam  
2 Presser foot  
3 Centimeters  
4 Inches  
5 Needle plate  
6 16 mm (5/8 inch)  
Useful Sewing Tips 55  
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
56  
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3
UTILITY STITCHES  
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.  
Selecting Stitching ..................................................................................................58  
Overcasting Stitches ...............................................................................................60  
Basic Stitching ........................................................................................................64  
Blind Hem Stitching ...............................................................................................65  
Buttonhole Stitching ...............................................................................................67  
Zipper Insertion .....................................................................................................73  
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .................................................................77  
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ...............................................................79  
Reinforcement Stitching .........................................................................................85  
Eyelet Stitching....................................................................................................... 87  
Decorative Stitching ...............................................................................................88  
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Selecting Stitching  
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.  
Press  
number of the selected stitch is displayed.  
Each press of increases the number by  
(stitch selection key). The  
5
Selecting stitching  
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired  
stitch.  
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight  
one. After “9” (“4” for the number on the left) is  
reached, the number returns to “0” . Pressing  
on the right changes the second digit  
stitch (  
left needle position) is selected.  
(ones) and pressing  
the first digit (tens).  
on the left changes  
A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot  
that should be used appears below the stitch  
number.  
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.  
X The stitch is selected.  
1
Determine which presser foot should be used  
with the selected stitch.  
If necessary, width and length adjust the stitch  
length, etc.  
2
6
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn  
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch  
Settings” (page 96).  
• For details on sewing with each of the utility  
stitches, refer to the following pages.  
I [Example] Selecting stitch  
.
Attach the presser foot.  
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch  
04.  
3
1
With  
on the right, select “ 4” , and with  
on the left, select “0”.  
Turn on the sewing machine.  
4
...  
...  
X When the machine is first turned on, “ 00”  
will be displayed.  
58  
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To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch  
width adjustment slider to the left or right.  
2
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and  
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to  
adjust the stitch width.  
1
2
3
4
5
1 Stitch width adjustment indicator  
2 Stitch width adjustment button  
3 Stitch width adjustment slider  
4 Narrow  
5 Wide  
3
To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch  
length adjustment slider to the left or right.  
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and  
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to  
adjust the stitch length.  
3
1
2
4
3
5
1 Stitch length adjustment indicator  
2 Stitch length adjustment button  
3 Stitch length adjustment slider  
4 Short  
5 Long  
Memo  
G For details on adjusting the stitch width and  
length, refer to “ Adjusting the Stitch Width  
and Length” (page 51).  
Selecting Stitching 59  
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Overcasting Stitches  
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Seven stitches are available for  
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.  
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”  
Two stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G” .  
Stitch Width  
[mm (inch.)]  
Stitch Length  
[mm (inch.)]  
Presser  
Foot  
Pattern  
Stitch Name  
Application  
Auto  
Manual  
Auto  
Manual  
Preventing fraying in medium weight  
and thin fabrics  
3.5  
2.5– 5.0  
2.0  
1.0– 4.0  
(1/8) (3/32– 3/16) (1/16) (1/16– 3/16)  
Overcasting  
stitch  
G
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and 5.0  
fabrics that fray easily (3/16) (3/32– 3/16) (3/32) (1/16– 3/16)  
2.5– 5.0  
2.5  
1.0– 4.0  
Attach overcasting foot “G”.  
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the  
presser foot guide.  
1
4
G
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
Select a stitch.  
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”  
(page 58).  
2
3
1 Needle drop point  
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric  
against the guide of the presser foot, and then  
lower the presser foot lever.  
CAUTION  
G After adjusting the stitch width, slowly  
turn the balance wheel toward you and  
check that the needle does not touch the  
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser  
foot, the needle may bend or break.  
1
1 Guide  
60  
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Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”  
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “ J” .  
Stitch Width  
[mm (inch.)]  
Stitch Length  
[mm (inch.)]  
Presser  
Foot  
Pattern  
Stitch Name  
Application  
Auto  
Manual  
Auto  
Manual  
Zigzagstitch  
(center  
Preventing fraying (center baseline/  
reverse stitching)  
3.5  
(1/8)  
0.0– 7.0  
(0– 1/4)  
1.4  
0.0– 4.0  
needle  
(1/16) (0– 3/16)  
position)  
J
3-point  
zigzag stitch  
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and 5.0  
1.5– 7.0  
1.0  
0.2– 4.0  
stretch fabrics  
(3/16) (1/16– 1/4) (1/16) (1/64– 3/16)  
Overcasting  
stitch  
5.0  
(3/16)  
0.0– 7.0  
(0– 1/4)  
2.5  
0.5– 4.0  
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics  
3
(3/32) (1/32– 3/16)  
Attach zigzag foot “J”.  
1
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
Select a stitch.  
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”  
(page 58).  
1 Needle drop point  
2
3
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the  
needle dropping off the edge at the right.  
1
1 Needle drop point  
Overcasting Stitches 61  
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter  
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. The following four  
stitches can be used to sew overcasting. When the side cutter is attached, be sure to use the settings in the  
ranges listed below.  
Stitch Width  
[mm (inch.)]  
Stitch Length  
[mm (inch.)]  
Presser  
Foot  
Pattern  
Stitch Name  
Application  
Auto  
Manual  
Auto  
Manual  
Sewing straight stitches while cutting  
the fabric  
0.0  
(0)  
0.0– 2.5  
2.5  
0.2– 5.0  
(0– 3/32) (3/32) (1/64– 3/16)  
Preventing fraying in thin and  
mediumweight fabrics while cutting  
the fabric  
3.5  
3.5– 5.0  
2.0  
1.0– 4.0  
(1/8) (1/8– 3/16) (1/16) (1/16– 3/16)  
Overcasting  
stitch  
S
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics  
while cutting the fabric  
5.0  
3.5– 5.0  
2.5  
1.0– 4.0  
(3/16) (1/8– 3/16) (3/32) (1/16– 3/16)  
Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting  
the fabric  
3.5  
3.5– 5.0  
1.4  
0.0– 4.0  
(1/8) (1/8– 3/16) (1/16) (0– 3/16)  
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter  
onto the needle clamp screw.  
2
1
Remove the presser foot.  
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
2
1
1 Connecting fork  
2 Needle clamp screw  
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin  
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot  
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot  
lever.  
3
2
1
1 Notch in presser foot holder  
2 Pin  
X The side cutter is attached.  
62  
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Raise the presser foot lever to check that the  
side cutter is securely attached.  
Position the fabric in the side cutter.  
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over  
the guide plate of the side cutter.  
4
8
CAUTION  
G If the thread cassette is to be installed  
with the side cutter attached, be sure to  
lower the presser foot lever. If the  
presser foot lever remains raised, the  
needle threader will hit the presser foot,  
which may result in damages.  
1
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,  
and then pull it out toward the rear of the  
5
1 Guide plate  
sewing machine.  
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the  
fabric will not be cut.  
3
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start  
sewing.  
9
Select a stitch.  
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”  
6
(page 58).  
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching  
is sewn.  
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the  
seam allowance will be about 5 mm  
(3/16 inch).  
CAUTION  
G After adjusting the stitch width, slowly  
turn the balance wheel toward you and  
check that the needle does not touch the  
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser  
foot, the needle may bend or break.  
1
Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in  
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.  
7
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)  
1
Memo  
G The side cutter can cut as much as one layer  
of 13-oz. denim.  
G After using the side cutter, clean it by  
removing any lint or dust.  
1 2 cm (1/16 inch)  
G If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,  
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to  
the cutting edge of the cutter.  
Overcasting Stitches 63  
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————  
Basic Stitching  
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.  
Stitch Width  
[mm (inch.)]  
Stitch Length  
[mm (inch.)]  
Presser  
Foot  
Pattern  
Stitch Name  
Application  
Auto  
Manual  
Auto  
Manual  
Straight  
stitch (left  
needle  
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or  
pintucks (left baseline/reverse  
stitching)  
0.0  
(0)  
0.0– 7.0  
(0– 1/4)  
2.5  
0.2– 5.0  
(3/32) (1/64– 3/16)  
position)  
Straight  
stitch  
(center  
needle  
position)  
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or  
pintucks (center baseline/reverse  
stitching)  
2.5  
0.2– 5.0  
J
(3/32) (1/64– 3/16)  
Triple  
stretch  
stitch  
Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch  
fabrics  
0.0  
(0)  
0.0– 7.0  
(0– 1/4)  
2.5  
1.5– 4.0  
(3/32) (1/16– 3/16)  
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.  
• For details, refer to “ Cutting the thread”  
(page 49).  
6
Basic stitching  
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.  
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.  
2
J
I Changing the needle position  
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and  
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be  
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider  
to the right moves the needle to the right; sliding  
the slider to the left moves the needle to the left.  
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser  
foot” (page 35).  
Select a stitch.  
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”  
(page 58).  
3
Lower the needle into the fabric at the  
beginning of the stitching.  
4
5
Start