Blaupunkt Car Amplifier PA2100 User Manual

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TABLE OF CONTENTS  
What is an amplifier? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2  
Key features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2  
Safety Concerns & installation warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3  
System planning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4  
Installation tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4  
Vehicle wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5  
Connections & controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-7  
System configurations 1 & 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8  
System configurations 3 & 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9  
Troubleshooting chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10  
Warranty information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11  
Blaupunkt technical support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11  
Assembly & Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Back Cover  
1 1 –  
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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING BLAUPUNKT!  
Congratulations! You are the now the owner of an exceptional car audio amplifier from the audio enthusiasts at  
Blaupunkt. Our engineering staff has spent considerable time refining our PA series amplifiers in order to introduce great  
sound to the consumer at an affordable price. With these products we focus on sonic performance but balanced with  
rugged design and flexible installation.  
Not only do we offer you a great product but also a supportive owners manual. This manual can be used as a teaching  
guide due to its brief, but informative, explanations of amplifier and system design. We are also very concerned about the  
end consumer using proper installation techniques for the highest performance possible from their new audio products.  
MOST important to us are the concerns with safety and the installation process. Since our Blaupunkt retail dealers have the  
tools and experience for an optimized and safe installation, we always recommend they do the final vehicle integration. But,  
should you choose to install these products yourself, please take the time to read this manual completely and abide by all  
precautions.  
ENGINEERING BENEFITS OF BLAUPUNKTS CLASS “T” AMPLIFIERS  
Audio amplifiers take power from the car battery and convert it to audio power. Although much of  
the energy output is sound, a considerable amount of power is lost as heat. Such heat loss must  
typically be dissipated via large heat sinks, thus creating heavy metal amps with a large footprint.  
Total  
In the audio world, Class ‘D’ amps have recently  
Energy  
helped reduce this wasted heat, allowing them to use  
HEAT DISSIPATION CURVES  
Lost as  
Heat  
(Watts)  
For 2x100 Watt Class ‘T’ and ‘AB’ Amps  
a smaller enclosure, but their poor fidelity limits them  
to bass reproduction only. In contrast, conventional  
Class ‘AB’ amps march on with their high fidelity, but  
poor efficiencies. Therefore, the need still exists for  
an amp with high fidelity, but with low heat and a  
small chassis.  
150W  
125W  
100W  
75W  
50W  
25W  
0W  
Conventional  
Class AB  
100W  
Excess  
Heat  
80W  
Excess  
Heat  
95W  
Excess  
Heat  
Class ‘T’, invented and patented by Tripath®  
Technologies, provides the best of both worlds with  
high quality sound, yet low heat dissipation. Due to  
the remarkably low heat generated we can design  
very small, hide-away boxes but also creatively shape  
the external housings from plastics or other materials.  
With heat losses of only 1⁄3 to 1⁄4 of an ‘AB’ design,  
Tripath opens up a whole new application world for  
compact, small design, attractive amps. Looks cool,  
runs cool!  
Excess Energy  
Wasted as Heat  
70W  
Excess  
Heat  
Blaupunkt Class T  
IDLE  
10  
20  
30  
40  
50  
60  
70  
80  
90  
100  
Audio Power Output (Watts/Channel)  
KEY FEATURES  
Your new Blaupunkt Amplifier offers some important features:  
I
“Break-away” design allowing the internal amplifier to be  
removed from the housing and mounted in a “hide-away”  
location  
I
I
REM1, Remote gain control (operates in bass mode only)  
HLA1, High Level Adapter allowing for speaker level voltage to  
drive the amplifier  
I
I
I
I
I
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Plugs that allow for wiring the vehicle first then connect the amp  
Continuously variable high-pass and low-pass crossover filters  
Bass boost control (fixed gain)  
Interchangeable colored plastic control lenses (optional)  
2 ohm (non-bridged) capability  
0.3-6.0Vrms input capability allowing for wide range drive voltage  
capability from a receiver or other media device  
2 –  
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SAFETY CONCERNS  
We always recommend you have your Blaupunkt amplifiers professionally installed but the  
installation process is often so easy that the average consumer can achieve success with little  
trouble. Regardless of the person installing, you should be sure to review the following points  
before proceeding with the installation:  
I
READ THE MANUAL! Understanding the product and installation limitations before  
lifting a screwdriver.  
I
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES - Flying debris are always dangerous.  
I
PROTECT THE VEHICLE - Always disconnect the negative battery cable before  
starting any kind of installation work. This prevents a possible high current electrical  
short (potential fires).  
I
HEAT - Keep all audio components away from nearby hot vehicle components that heat up over time such as hoses,  
high current wires, and braking system components.  
I
GIVE YOURSELF LOTS OF TIME - Rushing to complete an installation nearly always ends up with problems.  
I
DO NOT LISTEN AT HIGH SOUND LEVELS FOR A PROLONGED TIME - these amplifiers, used with high  
efficiency speakers from ANY manufacturer, have the potential to cause permanent hearing loss after listening at  
maximum volume levels for several hours.  
INSTALLATION WARNINGS!  
Before disassembling your beautiful new car you need some basic installation knowledge and skill with common hand and  
power tools. Following such basic installation tips and warnings will prevent possible damage to the vehicle and also  
prevent possible fires.  
I
AGAIN...READ THE MANUAL! There is a lot of helpful information in this manual that  
will save time and prevent problems later.  
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COVER THE VEHICLE WORK AREAS - Use fender covers or blankets to protect the  
work areas from scratches or dings.  
I
DISCONNECT THE (-) LEAD ON THE BATTERY - No sparks or fires please!  
I
“REVIEW” THE INSTALLATION - Before using any tools or moving vehicle  
components, take five minutes to review the installation intentions (e.g., verify that an  
amplifier will fit in an area of a car before tearing out all the interior).  
I
“REVIEW” THE VEHICLE - Before drilling any holes or cutting into any surfaces, make  
sure there are no fuel or hydraulic lines behind the surfaces. Also make sure there are no  
wires routed directly behind or near the desired mounting area (remember...screws can  
often extend 1-2 inches behind the mounting surface).  
I
ENSURE PROPER FIT - Before cutting or drilling, make sure the amplifier will physically  
fit in its desired location. Check for clearance around rear deck torsion bars or other  
structural elements.  
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EVERY CAR IS ASSEMBLED DIFFERENT - Every auto manufacturer uses different  
assembly techniques. Take care in removing/modifying all trim panels and mounting surfaces since they often use  
unique screws or snap fasteners that are difficult to replace if they are lost or broken.  
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BE CAREFUL WITH CABLE ROUTING - When routing audio cables, make sure RCA and speaker wires are  
routed away from high current power lines for audio amplifiers and vehicle systems lines when possible. This will  
help prevent noises from creeping into the audio system, plus prevent potential damage to the vehicle wiring itself.  
I
BE CAREFUL WITH ALL CONNECTIONS - When making connections, make sure each connection is clean  
and properly secured. Observe all polarity markings carefully to ensure proper end performance.  
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CAUTION - FUEL TANKS AND FUEL LINES ARE NOW LOCATED DIRECTLY BENEATH THE REAR  
DECK IN MANY CARS - CHECK FOR ADEQUATE CLEARANCE BEFORE EVEN CONSIDERING  
SUCH A MOUNTING LOCATION!  
3 –  
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SYSTEM PLANNING  
Before wiring up an audio system that may not achieve the  
sound quality you want, be sure to choose a system concept  
that fits your listening requirements. Basic systems, a  
receiver with internal 4x20 watts and 4 coax speakers, are  
adequate for many listeners. But, when you want to really  
“feel” the music, you will need some kind of subwoofer  
amplifier/speaker combination. Although many people might  
jump into an “add-on” amplifier to power to rear coaxial  
speakers, a better choice is usually a subwoofer  
amp/speaker system that supplements the existing 4 speaker  
system as shown in the adjacent drawing. Such a system  
provides a surprising improvement in sound quality due to  
the usually dramatic increase in bass response.  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
Subwoofer  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
The next dramatic step up in performance is with a “multi-  
channel” system that offers more dynamic range in the mids  
and highs due to higher power plus more bass response due  
to multiple woofers and/or more power. But, with such a  
system, the stereo image and overall listening experience  
usually becomes much more life-like due to better tonal  
quality midrange/tweeter speakers and usually better  
placement.  
Supplementary subwoofer system  
Tuner  
Passive X-over  
Sat Amplifier (4x100 W)  
To build such a system though, complexity goes up due to  
the addition of passive or active crossovers which take time  
to install and may inject noise into the system due to potential  
noise signal pick up. The results though of such a system  
can be dramatically pleasing.  
Sub Amplifier (2x100 W) Subwoofers  
High performance multi-channel system  
INSTALLATION TOOLS  
For most installations, simple hand tools are adequate to install an aftermarket amplifier. Depending upon the mounting  
locations used, you will need power tools for drilling and cutting plastics and metal. A good starting list is summarized  
below:  
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Tape measure and ruler  
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Marking pen and starting punch  
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Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (small and medium sizes)  
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Nylon wire bundle ties  
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Pliers: standard vice-grip and needle nose styles  
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Light-duty trim pry-bar for removing door trim  
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Cutting shears or nibbling tool for cutting thin and medium gauger metal  
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Wire cutters, wire strippers, electrical tape, crimping pliers and appropriate crimp-on  
terminals  
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Power drill with appropriate sized drill bits  
4 –  
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VEHICLE WIRING  
VEHICLE FUSING  
SYSTEM FUSE CHART  
For safety purposes, a high current fuse (or circuit breaker)  
MUST be installed in line with the amplifiers(s) immediately at  
the battery to prevent vehicle damage should the battery line  
in advertently shorted to the vehicle chassis. The chart at the  
right shows the recommended master fuse sizes for an  
average audio system with noted “rms” output power levels.  
(Fuse size for total amplifier system power in “rms” watts)  
100 W  
200 W  
500 W 1000 W  
Fuse Size  
(in amps)  
20 A  
30 A  
50 A  
100 A  
POWER WIRING  
SYSTEM POWER AND GROUND WIRE CHART  
Most vehicles built since 1990 have adequate current  
capability for your amplifier. Except for systems above about  
500 W rms, the factory charging system and battery should  
easily support it if properly installed. Proper wire size must  
be chosen to ensure adequate current delivery to the amp.  
Wire size (gauge) of the cables need to increase in size for  
higher power systems. (Wire sizes larger than those noted  
are usually a waste of time and money since they offer Little  
or no performance improvements.)  
(Wire gauge for total system in 'rms' watts)  
WIRE LENGTH  
5 ft. / 1.5 m  
100 W  
12  
200 W  
500 W 1000 W  
10  
10  
8
8
8
6
6
4
4
10 ft. / 3.0 m  
15 ft. / 4.5 m  
20 ft. / 6.0 m  
25 ft. / 7.5 m  
12  
4
10  
2
2
10  
8
Wire diameter must increase (decreased wire gauge number)  
for higher power systems. For long wire runs the wire  
diameter must also increase. The wire sizes noted allow for a  
maximum 0.5 volts DC drop over the give wire run which  
results in Sound Pressure Level drops inaudible to the  
average listener.  
10  
8
0 or 00  
SPEAKER WIRING  
LOUDSPEAKER WIRE CHART  
(Wire gauge per loudspeaker/speaker power in “rms” watts)  
As with power wire, speaker wire size (gauge) changes with  
the power required and the length of the wire run. The  
speaker wire chart shows the minimum recommended wire  
size for a single audio output channel driving a loudspeaker  
at a given distance with a maximum power loss of 0.5 dB,  
the threshold of audibility. (Wire sizes larger than those noted  
are usually a waste of time and money since they offer little or  
no performance improvements.)  
WIRE LENGTH  
5 ft. / 1.5 m  
20 W  
18  
50 W  
16  
100 W  
16  
200 W  
16  
10 ft. / 3.0 m  
15 ft. / 4.5 m  
20 ft. / 6.0 m  
25 ft. / 7.5 m  
18  
16  
16  
16  
16  
16  
16  
14  
16  
16  
16  
14  
16  
16  
14  
12  
FINAL VEHICLE WIRING  
Current requirements for an upgraded audio system dictate a  
dedicated power line be run from the amplifier directly to the  
battery of the vehicle. This line should NOT be run to the  
fuse panel of the vehicle but directly to the battery. DO NOT  
run to the alternator either. There MUST be a fuse installed at  
the battery with adequate amperage as shown in the chart  
above.  
Battery  
Battery  
Connector  
Fuse or  
Circuit  
Breaker  
Grommet  
To prevent  
damage to  
power wire  
Radio  
Power Wire  
(10 gage  
wire or  
As for the final signal wiring, be sure to route the audio cables  
down the side of the car opposite the power lines to avoid  
noise pick up from the lines. Also, try to route all audio  
cables away from noise sources such as engine computers  
and ABS brake computers.  
larger)  
Power Antenna  
Turn-On Wire  
(18-20 gage wire)  
Speaker Wires  
or  
RCA Cables  
Proper power grounding is important to insure adequate  
current flow. Be sure to grind the surface clean of all paint to  
ensure a solid electrical connection.  
Speakers  
Amplifier  
Ground Screw  
Drill 1/8” hole in  
chassis sheet metal  
Use the same ground if  
using multiple amplifiers  
5 –  
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CONNECTIONS & CONTROLS  
Line Level Input  
(high-level w/adapter provided)  
Ground  
+12 (Battery)  
Fuse  
Line Level Loop-Thru  
Remote Gain Control Input  
Speaker Outputs & turn-on “trigger” line  
POWER CONNECTIONS:  
Power Terminal (+12V)  
Connect directly to the vehicle battery (+)  
terminal with 10 gage wire (minimum)  
GROUND - This is the high current ground connection to the chassis of the  
car. It should be fastened to a clean ground connection in the vehicle, capable  
of handling high current loads. This wire should be no longer than 3 feet (1  
meter)  
GND  
+12V  
+12v - A high current line run direct from the batter is highly recommended to  
insure adequate current and voltage. This line MUST be run through a  
dedicated fuse of some kind and this fuse should be located immediately next  
to the power source. This in-line fuse is used to protect the vehicle should a  
short to chassis occur.  
NOT SUPPLIED  
TRIGGER - This line tells the amp to turn on and is remotely switched from  
the radio which normally provides an amp “trigger” output. This line is  
required to go “high” (+12V) to turn on the amp. If this line is not available, use  
the power antenna line trigger which is normally available in most radios.  
Fuse or  
Circuit Breaker  
To Battery  
Terminal  
10 Gage  
Wire  
Battery  
Terminal  
Adapter  
FUSE - This fuse is only for catastrophic situations should the amplifier begin to  
self-destruct or incur installation situations where gross amounts of current are  
being required from the amp beyond its design limits. Although another fuse  
should be installed inline with the high power line at the battery, this amplifier  
mounted fuse MUST remain in the circuit to protect the amplifier.  
Ground Terminal  
Connect to a good chassis ground. The  
ground connection should be clean,  
unpainted metal to provide a good  
electrical connection.  
SPEAKER OUTPUTS - The amplifier is connected to appropriate impedance  
speakers via these leads. It is IMPERATIVE that these leads NOT be  
connected or touch the vehicle chassis in any way or the amplifier will be  
damaged. The (+) and (-) leads of the amp are in no way inter-connected to  
one another. Also, NONE of the leads can touch each other, touch ground, or  
touch +12V or damage may occur to the amp or vehicle.  
GND  
+12V  
Sheet  
Metal  
Screw  
Ring  
Connector  
REMOTE GAIN CONTROL - This amplifier is provided with internal circuitry that  
allows for a remote gain control to adjust the bass output level depending  
upon the listener’s choice. ONLY the supplied gain control can be used with  
the amp or the circuitry for it to be used properly.  
10 Gage  
Wire  
Drill 1/8” hole  
in chassis  
sheet metal  
CAUTION!! Unfortunately you CANNOT use simple telephone “Y” connectors  
to daisy chain to multiple amps in hopes of controlling the gains of multiple  
amps.  
Remote Terminal  
Connect the radio power antenna lead from  
the receiver to the amplifier  
terminal.  
This turns the amplifier on whenever the  
receiver is turned on.  
LINE LEVEL INPUTS - The most commonly used inputs in the aftermarket world  
are RCA type line level inputs. These inputs can handle up to about 6 Volts  
rms without overdriving the amplifier. Such high voltages are rarely found from  
car audio head units so this is a very comfortable value. But, should the use  
need to drive the amp directly from speaker level leads, use the supplied “High  
Level Adapter” to connect to the amp.  
Butt  
Connector  
(not supplied)  
To Receiver  
LINE LEVEL LOOP-THRU - These connectors are simply hard wired to the other  
inputs and do not loop-through the crossovers in any way. If you wish to  
“daisy-chain” multiple amps simply connect them to the “loop-thru” leads.  
Power  
Antenna Lead  
18-20 Gage  
Wire  
6 –  
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CONNECTIONS & CONTROLS  
POWER ON LED  
CROSSOVER MODE: LP - FULLRANGE - HP  
(Crossover is either in Low-pass, Full-range, or High-pass mode)  
HIGH-PASS FREQUENCY: “50 - 250Hz”  
(Frequencies above this setting will be passed through)  
LOW-PASS FREQUENCY: “50 -250Hz”  
(Frequencies below this setting will be passed through)  
GAIN CONTROL : “0.3 - 6.0 Vrms”  
(this is the input voltage necessary at this position for full output power)  
BASS BOOST: ON/OFF”  
(+10dB when ON)  
POWER ON LED - This light will turn on when the amplifier receives a  
+12V turn on signal from the radio. If the amp is properly wired, but the  
light does not turn on, there may be a short circuit condition that the amp  
is protecting itself from.  
"Floating Ground"  
Radio Outputs  
(LOOP-THRU)  
INPUTS  
R
(BR)  
L
BASS BOOST - This control provides additional bass in the 45Hz area to  
give a stronger low end “feel” to the bass. Once switched on, this will  
also allow the amp to be driven into distortion sooner so the user must  
be aware.  
"HLA1"  
High Level Adaptor  
white  
L (+)  
white/black  
L (–)  
GAIN CONTROL - The gain control allows for a range of 0.3-6Volts input.  
This means that if the setting is a 0.3V, it only takes 0.3Volts to drive the  
amp to full output. (Such a low setting allows for the amp to be easily  
overdriven and more susceptible to noise so a mid-position is highly  
recommended for most radios.)  
black  
NOT  
USED  
gray  
R (+)  
R (–)  
gray/black  
LOW-PASS FREQUENCY - If the mode selector is in the “LP” position  
the amplifier passes only low frequency sound. The upper limit for such  
sound is set via this control. For bass, a value just below 100Hz is usually  
best.  
"Common Ground"  
Radio Outputs  
(LOOP-THRU)  
INPUTS  
R
(BR)  
L
HIGH-PASS FREQUENCY - If the mode selector is in the “HP” position  
the amplifier passes only mid and high frequency sound. The lower limit  
for such sound is set via this control. A common setting is just above  
100Hz.  
"HLA1"  
High Level Adaptor  
white  
L (+)  
CROSSOVER MODE - Depending upon the system design chosen, you  
need to set the amplifier in the proper “mode” be it LP, Fullrange, or HP.  
The low-pass and high-pass frequency settings are explained above. The  
“full-range” setting simply allows for the amp to pass all audio frequencies  
without any kind of crossover filter application. (This is common with  
6x9” fullrange coaxial speakers for example.)  
white/black  
NOT USED  
Radio chassis or  
common speaker  
ground  
black  
gray/black  
gray  
NOT USED  
R (+)  
REMOTE GAIN CIRCUITRY  
REMOTE GAIN  
CIRCUITRY  
(L) (GND) (R)  
Should the installer wish to create their own remote gain control, or  
attempt to daisy chain the gains of multiple amps, refer to the adjacent  
circuit design for proper connection. This should ONLY be attempted by a  
very highly qualified installation technician. If improperly done DAMAGE  
WILL OCCUR to the amplifier and WILL NOT be covered by warranty!  
(We put this information in this manual because of the interest of our  
highly skilled Blaupunkt installers - the average consumer should NOT  
attempt this on their own!)  
"Ganged" 20k/ch  
Resistor pack  
You should ONLY loop the SIGNAL pin to other amps - DO NOT carry the  
ground and +12V pin voltages to adjacent amps.  
7 –  
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SYSTEM CONFIGURATION #1  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
or  
High-Pass  
Connect Speakers as shown. For best sound,  
always make sure to connect + to + and - to -  
X-OVER  
MODE  
HP  
LP  
FULL  
Full-Range  
or  
High-Pass  
Full-Range  
2 Channel Full-range -or- High-Pass Mode  
This installation is most popular for listeners who want to simply  
increase the power to the rear speakers in a car. The resulting  
performance is most commonly a louder overall sound field from the rear.  
But, such a system’s biggest benefit is the additional bass response since the bass control of the radio can be turned up  
without distorting the amplifier. Such a system is not necessarily louder in the mids and highs but is able to play louder in  
the low frequencies due to this additional power. This leads to an overall richer and stronger sound experience for the  
listener without additional subwoofer boxes or electronics that may complicate the system or take up more room. Such a  
system WILL NOT equal the performance of a subwoofer system but will certainly be a pleasant improvement.  
With the addition of a high-pass filter, this amplifier is set up to complement a dedicated subwoofer amplifier/speaker  
system. This allows for smaller (e.g., 5" or 6") satellite speakers to operate most efficiently without being over-driven in the  
bass region where a dedicated subwoofer system operates most efficiently.  
SYSTEM CONFIGURATION #2  
Full-Range  
High-Pass  
X-OVER  
MODE  
HP  
LP  
FULL  
Subwoofer  
High-Pass  
Full-Range  
3 Channel Multi-Mode (Passive)  
The multi-mode system is a “poor-man’s” satellite/subwoofer  
system. This amplifier is able to drive speakers in stereo mode  
and at the same time drive low frequencies to a dedicated  
subwoofer speaker. By inserting inductors (coils) and capacitors,  
the result is an inexpensive solution to generating a ‘3' channel  
system with a 2 channel amplifier.  
Using passive components (coils and capacitors) the installation  
is simple and performs adequately for most listeners. Such a system will not perform as well as an “active” system because  
the slow attenuation (roll-off) of the frequency response resulting in a moderate amount of over-lapping of the sound  
spectrum between the satellites and subwoofers. It is important to remember that although surprisingly pleasant  
performance is achieved, this is a compromise system and will NOT perform as well as a dedicated 3 channel system with  
electronic crossovers.  
8 –  
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SYSTEM CONFIGURATION #3  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
X-OVER  
MODE  
HP  
LP  
FULL  
Subwoofer  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
2 Channel Dual Subwoofer Mode  
The largest improvement in sound quality always comes  
when adding some kind of subwoofer via a dedicated subwoofer amplifier and electronics crossover. The electronic  
crossover ensures minimal overlap of the bass response with the mid and high frequencies from the other speakers resulting  
in a more accurate performance compared to conventional coaxials with additional power.  
By installing this amplifier in the stereo mode, you are able to drive two subwoofer speakers and in to low impedance loads  
(e.g., 2 ohms) without over heating the amplifiers. Also, such an installation more easily supports a standard 2 speaker  
woofer box that may already be constructed. Since two woofers can play 6 decibels louder than one at a given power (due  
to acoustical laws of “mutual-coupling”), the resulting sound pressure level is substantial. This is probably the most  
common use for a conventional two channel amplifier there is.  
SYSTEM CONFIGURATION #4  
For higher output, you can connect a subwoofer to  
two output channels. Look for the + and – to  
indicate the correct connections.  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
X-OVER  
MODE  
Subwoofer  
HP  
LP  
Full-Range  
Full-Range  
FULL  
1 Channel Bridged Subwoofer Mode  
By electrically connecting a subwoofer speaker in the way shown  
above, you are able to greatly increase the output power delivered  
from the amplifier to the speaker. Such a circuit increases the  
voltage “swing” across the speaker which increase the power  
seen by a factor of 2 to 4 times that in stereo mode.  
4(main)  
This is a very logical set-up for systems that are space limited to allow for only one subwoofer in a vehicle. The number and  
box volumes are compensated by simply more amplifier power pushing a single speaker.  
Such a configuration is also a surprisingly good performer. These increases in power are always welcome but you must  
take care to avoid low impedances (below 4 ohms) since most amplifiers will overheat and shut down if over-driven into  
such a configuration. You must also take care that you are not exceeding the thermal, or excursion, power limiting values  
for the woofer. Surprisingly high power levels can be achieved with such a system without realizing it thus quickly damaging  
the woofer.  
9 –  
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TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE  
Below is a basic trouble-shooting guide to assist in seeking out and correcting a problem that may occur in the installation  
process. Although lengthy, this chart cannot address every single problem possible but mainly the ones most common.  
SYMPTOM  
PROBABLE CAUSE OR CORRECTION  
I
No power (power light not on)  
Check connections to amps +12 volt, ground, and remote lines.  
I
Use voltmeter to verify voltages are at terminals of amp.  
I
Check main power connection at battery.  
Check fuse in power line at battery.  
Disconnect all speakers but not power lines - if unit then turns on, a speaker short  
or speaker line touching vehicle chassis is likely.  
I
I
I
Power but no sound (power light is on)  
No sound from one channel or entire side  
Very low sound level  
Check all input cable lines for connection.  
I
Disconnect speakers from amp, test speaker lines with digital voltmeter to verify >2  
ohms per channel (non-bridged mode).  
I
Check radio’s balance and fader control positions - verify they are at center.  
Check speaker connections at amp and speaker.  
Check input leads for connection to amp.  
I
I
I
Verify radio balance and fader controls are at center positions.  
I
Check amplifier’s input gain control setting - adjust for higher output levels if  
necessary (gain settings closer to 0.3 volts).  
I
Receiver may have very low output voltage levels - a step up “line driver” may  
have to be used.  
I
Power amplifier turns on and off repeatedly  
(motor-boating sound)  
Make sure power connections at batter are tight.  
I
Verify battery voltage is >11.5 volts DC (12.5-15V engine on) at amplifier with engine off.  
I
Check all radio and amplifier ground connections.  
I
Amplifier turns off during loud or distorted  
passages  
Input stage being over-driven - lower input gain (closer to 4 volt setting).  
I
Verify battery voltage is >11.5 volts DC at amplifier with engine off.  
I
Check all radio and amplifier ground connections.  
Verify speaker loads >2 ohms on all channels (non-bridged mode).  
I
I
Amplifier performs fine but gets very hot to  
the touch  
Input gain control too high - lower accordingly (closer to 4.0 volt setting).  
I
Verify speaker loads >2 ohms on all channels (non-bridged mode).  
I
Verify the mounting location allows for free air movement around the amp.  
Preferably, the amp should be mounted with fins up and down so rising heat moves  
quickly away from amp.  
I
Amplifier turn-on/turn-off pops or noises  
“turn on race” - disconnect trigger from radio and turn on/off via a wire jumper to  
power terminal. If noise goes away, the radio is turning on/off too slowly. This is  
radio problem and can only be corrected with outboard turn-on delay relay system.  
Radio “thump” - disconnect the RCA input lines to the amp and turn on/off via radio  
I
trigger. If noise goes away without RCA lines connected, the radio is sending pops  
out through RCA lines. This is a radio problem and can only be corrected with  
outboard turn-on delay relay system.  
I
Cracking noises on AM/FM radio but not  
on tape or cd.  
Ensure the problem is “radiated noise” by placing a portable FM radio near the car  
engine. If noise is picked up, then it is a vehicle problem and not your system.  
Research to isolate the source and properly shield or bypass.  
I
Are spark plugs and wires > 3 years old? These can often radiate substantial noise  
when old.  
I
Verify the engine block has a good ground connection to chassis ground.  
I
Verify the engine compartment hood is grounded to vehicle chassis via a braided  
grounding strap.  
I
Whining noise, engine running, varies in  
pitch or loudness with engine speed, AND  
varies with radio volume control setting  
(this is generally a RADIO installation  
problem)  
Verify all power and ground connections are clean at radio.  
I
Re-route radio power and ground so they are sourced from same connections back  
at amplifier (this is called a “common” ground).  
I
Check all ground connections to ensure clean surfaces that have all paint removed  
and also not oxidation buildup over time.  
I
Verify there is some kind of power filtering choke assembly at back of radio. If not,  
install one.  
I
Whining noise, engine running, varies in  
pitch or loudness with engine speed, BUT,  
DOES NOT vary with radio volume control  
setting (this is generally an amplifier  
installation problem)  
Check battery ground connections at chassis are clean and tight, scraped free of  
oxidation, paint, and grease.  
I
Re-route radio power and ground so they are sourced from same connections back  
at amplifier (this is called a “common” ground).  
I
Bypass all equipment between radio and amp (e.g., equalizers) directly connecting  
radio. If noise goes away, signal processor has problem.  
I
Check for signal level “ground loops” - disconnect the outer shield of the RCA cable  
at one end of the cable (e.g., radio end). If noise goes away, modify cables  
accordingly. There are voltage differences at the ground connections of the  
components and these are NOT correctable any other way than such shield cutting  
or an outboard “ground loop isolator” which is a small transformer.  
10 –  
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LIMITED WARRANTY INFORMATION (UNITED STATES ONLY)  
Robert Bosch Corporation warrants new Blaupunkt car audio products it distributes in the United States through authorized Blaupunkt  
dealers, or which are imported as original vehicle equipment by the automobile manufacturer, to be free from defects in material and  
workmanship, in accordance with the following:  
For twelve (12) months after delivery to you, the original consumer purchaser, we will repair or at our option replace at no charge to you  
any car audio product which, under normal conditions of use and service, proves to be defective in materials or workmanship.  
However, this warranty does not cover expenses incurred in the removal or reinstallation of any car audio product, whether or not  
proven defective, and does not cover products not purchased from an authorized Blaupunkt dealer. This warranty is limited to the  
original consumer purchaser and is not transferable. Repaired and replacement car audio products shall assume the identity of the  
original for purpose of this warranty and this warranty shall not be extended with respect to such products.  
To obtain performance of this warranty, contact the nearest Blaupunkt authorized repair facility or our nearest office. A dated purchase  
receipt or other proof that the product is within the warranty period will be required in order to honor your claim. Carefully pack the unit  
and ship prepaid to the servicing location. For further information, write to the Robert Bosch Corporation, 2800 South 25th Avenue,  
Broadview, Illinois, 60153, attention Blaupunkt Customer Service Department or call 1-800-266-2528.  
Specifically excluded from this warranty are failures caused by misuse, neglect, abuse, improper operation or installation, dropping or  
damaging, unauthorized service or parts, or failure to follow maintenance instructions or perform normal maintenance activities.  
Normal maintenance activities for car audio products include but are not limited to cleaning and other minor maintenance activities and  
adjustments that are outlined in the owner's manual or that are normally required for continued proper operation. Also excluded from  
this warranty is the correction of improper installation and the elimination of any external electromagnetic interference. This warranty  
sets forth your exclusive remedies with respect to the products covered by it. We shall not be liable for any incidental, consequential,  
special or punitive damages arising from the sale or use of any Blaupunkt car audio products, whether such claim is in contract or tort.  
No attempt to alter, modify, or amend this warranty shall be effective unless authorized in writing by an officer of Robert Bosch  
Corporation.  
THIS WARRANTY IS IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES OR REPRESENTATIONS, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING ANY  
WARRANTY IMPLIED BY LAW, WHETHER FOR MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR OTHERWISE  
AND SHALL BE EFFECTIVE ONLY FOR THE PERIOD THAT THIS EXPRESS WARRANTY IS EFFECTIVE.  
In the event any provision, or any part or portion of this warranty shall be held invalid, void or otherwise unenforceable, such holding  
shall not affect the remaining part or portions of that provision or any other provision hereof.  
NOTICE TO CALIFORNIA OWNERS: If your Blaupunkt car audio product needs warranty repair service and there is no authorized  
service center reasonably close to you, you can return the defective unit to the dealer from whom you purchased it, or you can return it  
to any dealer who sells Blaupunkt car audio products. The dealer may, at the dealer's option, replace, repair or refund the purchase  
price for any Blaupunkt car audio products which prove defective under conditions of normal use. If the dealer fails to repair, replace, or  
partially refund your money, you may take your Blaupunkt car audio product to any repair shop and they can repair your unit at our  
expense unless the repair cost exceeds the depreciated value of the unit, but you must contact Blaupunkt to receive authorization to  
do this before your car audio product is repaired.  
ROBERT BOSCH CORPORATION  
BLAUPUNKT CUSTOMER SERVICE  
2800 SOUTH 25TH AVENUE  
BROADVIEW, IL 60155  
TEL: 1-800-266-2528  
BLAUPUNKT TECHNICAL SUPPORT  
These amplifiers are designed to install quickly and easily into most vehicles. Should you experience installation problems,  
we will make all reasonable efforts to help you, the end purchaser or Installation Technician, to competently install these  
components. Before calling us please carefully review this owners manual for  
the answers to your questions.  
Due to the limited print space of this owners manual, we also offer additional  
information regarding installation and systems on our Internet site. Via a  
standard Internet connection through a local Internet Service Provider or other  
providers (e.g., America Online), connect to our web site at the following  
on system design, vehicle integration, product fit guides where possible, and  
extensive information on loudspeaker design and installation. For the more  
adventuresome builder, we also offer our “BlauBox” computer program which  
assists in designing subwoofer enclosures. This program is FREE to down load  
and use. We also “link out” to other sites that provide additional theory and  
technical support for the consumer and the technically interested.  
11 –  
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MERCI D’AVOIR CHOISI BLAUPUNKT!  
Félicitations ! Vous êtes maintenant propriétaire d’un amplificateur pour autoradio exceptionnel, produit par les audiophiles  
enthousiastes de Blaupunkt. Notre équipe d’ingénieurs a passé un temps considérable à raffiner notre ligne d’amplificateurs  
PA, afin de vous apporter un son remarquable à un prix abordable. Nous nous concentrons avec ces produits sur la  
performance sonore, alliée à une conception solide et à une installation flexible.  
Nous vous offrons non seulement un produit remarquable, mais également un manuel du propriétaire pratique. Ce manuel  
peut être utilisé comme un guide d’apprentissage, grâce à ses explications brèves mais informatives sur la conception des  
systèmes et des amplificateurs. Nous voulons également nous assurer que le consommateur utilisera des techniques  
d’installation appropriées afin de tirer la meilleure performance possible de leur nouveau matériel audio. Nos préoccupations  
MAJEURES sont la sécurité et le processus d’installation. Nos revendeurs Blaupunkt ayant les outils et l’expérience  
nécessaires à une installation sûre et optimale, nous recommandons toujours qu’ils se chargent de l’intégration finale au  
véhicule. Toutefois, si vous décidez d’installer ces produits vous-même, veuillez prendre le temps de lire ce manuel jusqu’au  
bout et d’en observer toutes les précautions.  
AVANTAGES TECHNIQUES DES AMPLIFICATEURS DE CLASSE  
T
DE BLAUPUNKT  
Les amplificateurs audio reçoivent leur alimentation des batteries de voiture et la convertissent en puissance audio. Bien  
qu’une grande partie de l’énergie de sortie soit sonore, une puissance considérable est perdue sous forme de chaleur. Cette  
perte calorifique doit généralement être dissipée au moyen de dissipateurs thermiques de grandes dimensions, ce qui crée  
des amplis lourds en métal occupant une place importante.  
Dans le monde audio, les amplis de Classe “D” ont aidé récemment à réduire cette énergie gaspillée, ce qui leur permet  
d’utiliser une enceinte plus petite, mais leur fidélité médiocre les limite à ne reproduire que les graves. Par contre, les amplis  
“AB” classiques défilent avec leur fidélité élevée, mais  
cela au prix de rendements médiocres. Par  
Énergie totale  
conséquent, le besoin existe encore d’avoir un ampli  
qui ait une fidélité élevée, tout en émettant peu de  
chaleur et se logeant dans un châssis de petites  
dimensions.  
perdue sous  
forme  
Courbes de dissipation de chaleur  
de chaleur  
(Watts)  
Pour amplis de Classe “T” et “AB” 2x100 Watts  
150W  
125W  
100W  
75W  
50W  
25W  
0W  
Classe AB  
classique  
La Classe “T” inventée et brevetée par Tripath  
Technologies procure ce qu’il y a de mieux dans les  
deux mondes en ayant un son de haute qualité tout en  
dissipant peu de chaleur. Par suite de la chaleur créée  
remarquablement faible, nous pouvons concevoir de  
très petites boîtes qui se cachent, mais nous pouvons  
aussi donner de façon créative aux logements des  
formes en plastique ou en d’autres matériaux. Avec  
des pertes thermiques qui sont seulement entre 1/3 et  
_ de celles d’une conception “AB”, Tripath ouvre tout  
un monde nouveau d’applications à des amplis  
compacts, petits et séduisants. Ayez l’air froid,  
fonctionnez de manière froide !  
100W  
80W  
Chaleur  
en excès  
Chaleur  
95W  
en excès  
Chaleur  
en excès  
Énergie en excès gaspillée  
sous forme de chaleur  
70W  
Chaleur  
en excès  
Blaupunkt Class T  
IDLE  
10  
20  
30  
40  
50  
60  
70  
80  
90  
100  
Puissance de sortie audio (Watts/Canal)  
CARACTÉRISTIQUES PRINCIPALES  
Votre nouvel amplificateur Blaupunkt offre des particularités importantes :  
I Conception "Break-away" (À décollement) permettant à l’amplificateur  
interne d’être retiré du logement et monté dans un emplacement caché  
I REM1, Réglage du gain à distance (fonctionne seulement en mode des  
graves)  
I HLA1, Adaptateur à niveau élevé tenant compte de la tension au niveau  
haut-parleur pour piloter l’amplificateur  
I Fiches qui permettent de câbler d’abord le véhicule, puis de connecter  
l’amplificateur  
I Filtres de sélection de fréquences passe-haut et passe-bas continûment  
variable  
I Réglage d’amplification des basses fréquences (gain fixé)  
I Lentilles de réglage interchangeables en plastique coloré (en option)  
I Capabilité de 2 ohms (sans chevauchement)  
I Capabilité d’entrée de 0.3-6.0Veff prévoyant une capabilité de tensions de  
pilotage dans une gamme étendue provenant d’un récepteur ou d’un  
autre dispositif de média  
12 –  
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ASSEMBLY & MOUNTING  
Robert Bosch Corporation, Sales Group  
Mobile Communications Division  
2800 South 25th Avenue, Broadview, IL 60155  
Copyright 2001 by the Robert Bosch Corporation  
No portion of this work may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the Robert Bosch Corporation  
Tripath logo, name, and patents are protected by Tripath Corp, Santa Clara, CA  
Printed in China (May, 2001)  
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