TM
Instruction Manual
3680 12" Compound Miter Saw
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FOR YOUR SAFETY - ALL TOOLS
When using Electric Tools, basic safety precautions should always be followed to reduce
the risk of fire, shock, and personal injury, including the following:
READ AALL INNSSTRUCTTIONS
Table of Contents
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS..............................................................................................1
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES......................................................................................2
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION.........................................................................................2
GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS.....................................................................................2
EXTENSION CORDS.....................................................................................................3
UNPACKING YOUR SAW.............................................................................................3
FAMILIARIZATION.......................................................................................................3
SPECIFICATIONS.........................................................................................................3
BENCH MOUNTING .....................................................................................................3
INSTALLING THE BLADE.............................................................................................4
REAR LOWER GUARD ADJUSTMENT.........................................................................4
CUTTING THE KERF.....................................................................................................4
TRANSPORTING THE SAW .........................................................................................4
ADJUSTMENTS ...........................................................................................................4
MITER SCALE ADJUSTMENT......................................................................................4
MITER POINTER ADJUSTMENT..................................................................................5
BEVEL STOP ADJUSTMENT........................................................................................5
FENCE ADJUSTMENT..................................................................................................5
GUARD ACTUATION AND VISIBILITY .........................................................................5
AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC BRAKE...................................................................................6
SWITCH .......................................................................................................................6
CUTTING WITH YOUR SAW ........................................................................................6
CROSSCUTS................................................................................................................6
BEVEL CUTS ................................................................................................................6
QUALITY OF CUT.........................................................................................................6
BODY AND HAND POSITION .......................................................................................7
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE......................................................................................7
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES .....................................................................................7
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES .........................................................7
AND OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
WARNING:
1. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.
2. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES. Form habit of checking to see that keys and
adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.
3.
4.
KEEP WWORK AARREA CLEEAN. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents.
DON’T USEE IN DANGEERROUS ENVIRRONMENT.
Don’t use power tools in damp or wet locations, or
expose them to rain. Keep work area well lighted.
5. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY. All visitors should be kept at a safe distance from work area.
6. MAKE WORKSHOP KID PROOF with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter keys.
7. DON’T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and be safer at the rate for which it was designed.
USE RIGHHT TOOL.
8.
9.
Don’t force tool or attachment to do a job for which it was not designed.
WEAR PROPEER APPPAAREL.
No loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry
to get caught in moving parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear protective hair covering
to contain long hair.
10. ALWAAYS WWEEAARR SSAFEETY GLLAASSSESS. Also use face or dust mask if cutting operation is dusty.
Everyday eyeglasses have only impact resistant lenses. They are NOT safety glasses.
SECUREE WORK.
11.
Use clamps or vise to hold work when practical. It’s safer than using your hand
and it frees both hands to operate tool.
12. DON’T OOVVEERREACHH. Keep proper footing and balance at all times.
13. MAINNTAIINN TTOOOOLS WWITH CCAAREE. Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance.
Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
14. DISCCOONNECTT TTOOLLS before servicing; when changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters,
etc.
REDUCCE THEE RRISK OFF UNINNTENTIONALL STARRTTING.
plugging in.
15.
Make sure switch is in OFF position before
16. USEE RREECOMMMEENNDDED AACCCCESSSORRIESS. Consult the instruction manual for recommended acces-
sories. The use of improper accessories may cause risk of injury to persons.
17. NEVEER SSTANDD OON TOOLL. Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is
unintentionally contacted.
CHECK DAMAAGED PPAARTS.
18.
Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended
function—check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts,
mounting and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is
damaged should be properly repaired or replaced.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES.......................................................7
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS ..............................................................................7
DUAL RANGE MITER SCALE...................................................................................8
VERNIER SCALE .....................................................................................................8
CUTTING BASEBOARD MOLDINGS ............................................................................9
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ......................................................................................10
TROUBLE SHOOTING TIPS .........................................................................................11
MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................12
ACCESSORIES.............................................................................................................12
NEVER LLEAVE TTOOOL RUNNNING UNNATTENNDED. TUURN POWWEER OFF.
comes to a complete stop.
19.
Don’t leave tool until it
20. DO NOT OPERATTE EELLEECTRIC TTOOLS NNEEARR FFLLAAMMABBLLEE LIQUUIDDS OR IN GAASEOUS OR EXXPPLOO--
SIVE ATMOSSPHERREES. Motors in these tools may spark and ignite fumes.
1
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For your convenience and safety, the following warning labels are on your miter saw.
ON MOTOR HHOUSING:
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS - MITER SAWS
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING SAW.
WHEN SERVICING, USE ONLY IDENTICAL REPLACEMENT PARTS.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
1. CAUTION: FAILURE TO HEED THESE WARNINGS MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY AND
SERIOOUS DAMAAGE TO TTHHE SAW.
DO
DO
2.
3.
-Protect electric supply line with at least a 15 ampere time-delay fuse or a circuit breaker.
-Make certain the blade rotates in the correct direction and that the teeth at the bottom of the
ALWAYS ADJUST FENCE PROPERLY
ON MOVINNG FENCE: ALWAYS ADUST FENCE PROPERLY BEFORE
BEFORE USE. CLAMP SMALL PIECES
blade are pointing to the rear of the miter saw.
BEFORE CUTTING. SEE MANUAL.
USE. CLAMP SMALL PIECES BEFORE CUTTING. SEE MANUAL.
4. DO-Be sure all clamp handles are tight before starting any operation.
5. DO-Be sure all blade and clamp washers are clean and recessed sides of collars are against blade.
Tighten arbor screw securely.
DANGER
ON GUARD:
KEEP AWAY
FROM BLADE
DANGER –– KEEP AWWAY FROMM BLADE.
DO
DO
6.
7.
- Keep saw blade sharp and properly set.
-Keep motor air slots free of chips and dirt.
ON TABBLE: ((2 PLACES)
8. DO-Use blade guards at all times.
9. DO-Keep hands out of path of saw blade.
10. DO-Shut off power, disconnect cord from power source and wait for saw blade to stop before ser-
vicing or adjusting tool.
ALWAYS TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT KNOBS BEFORE USE. KEEP HANDS 6" FROM PATH OF SAW
BLADE. NEVER PERFORM ANY OPERATION FREEHAND. NEVER CROSS ARMS IN FRONT OF SAW
BLADE. THINK! YOU CAN PREVENT ACCIDENTS.
DO
DON’T
11.
12.
-Support long work with an outboard tool rest.
-Attempt to operate on anything but designated voltage.
DO NOT OPERATE SAW WITHOUT GUARDS IN PLACE. NEVER REACH IN BACK OF SAW BLADE.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION. SHUT OFF POWER AND WAIT FOR BLADE TO STOP BEFORE
SERVICING, ADJUSTING TOOL, OR MOVING HANDS.
13. DON’’TT-Operate unless all clamp handles are tight.
14. DON’T- Use blades larger or smaller than those which are recommended.
15. DON’’TT- Wedge anything against fan to hold motor shaft.
16. DON’’TT-Force cutting action. (Stalling or partial stalling of motor can cause major damage. Allow
motor to reach full speed before cutting.)
SSAAVVEE TTHHEESSEE IINNSSTTRRUUCCTTIIOONNSS FFOORR FFUUTTUURREE UUSSEE
DON’T
17.
- Cut ferrous metals (Those with any iron or steel content) or any masonry.
18. DON’’TT-Use abrasive wheels. The excessive heat and abrasive particles generated by them will
damage the saw.
19. DON’TT-Allow anyone to stand behind saw.
Electrical Connection
Be sure your power supply agrees with the nameplate marking.
120 volts, AC/DC means that your saw will operate on alternating
or direct current. A voltage decrease of 10 percent or more will-
cause a loss of power and overheating. All B&D tools are factory
tested. If this tool does not operate, check the power supply.
GROUNDED
OUTLET BOX
20. DON’T-Apply lubricants to the blade when it’s running.
A
DON’T
DON’T
21.
22.
-Place either hand in the blade area when the saw is connected to the power source.
-Use blades rated less than 4800 R.P.M.
23. DON’T-Attempt to cut small pieces (6”) without clamping.
24. DON’’TT-Operate saw without guards in place.
25. DON’TT-Perform any operation freehand.
Grounding
GROUNDING
PRONG IS
LONGEST OF
3 PRONGS
In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a
path of least resistance for electric current to reduce the risk of
electric shock. This tool is equipped with an electric cord having
an equipment-grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The
plug must be plugged into a matching outlet that is properly
installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and
ordinances. Do not modify the plug provided. If it will not fit the
outlet, have the proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
26. DON’TT-Reach around or behind saw blade.
27. DON’T-Place hands closer than 6 inches from the saw blade.
B
C
DON’T
28.
- Reach underneath the saw unless it is turned off and unplugged. The saw blade is
exposed on the underside of the saw.
29. DONN’’TT - Move either hand from saw or work piece or raise arm until blade has stopped.
DON’T
30.
- Use without Kerf Plate or when kerf slot is wider than 3/8”.
GROUNDING
MEANS
This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an outlet like the
one illustrated in sketch A. The tool has a grounding plug that
looks like the plug illustrated in sketch A. A temporary adapter,
which looks like the adapter illustrated in sketches B and C, may
be used to connect this plug to a 2-pole receptacle as shown in
31. CAUTTIONN:: Do not connect unit to electrical power source until complete instructions are read and
understood.
32. CAUTIONN: Some wood contains preservatives such as copper chromium arsenate (CCA) which
can be toxic. When cutting these materials extra care should be taken to avoid inhalation and min-
imize skin contact.
ADAPTER
2
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sketch B if a properly grounded outlet is not available. The temporary adapter should be used only
until a properly grounded outlet can be installed by a qualified electrician. The green-colored rigid ear,
lug, and the like, extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent ground such as a
properly grounded outlet box.
ADJUSTMENT AND SET UP
Specifications
ADAPTER SHOWN IN FIGURES B & C IS NOT FOR USE IN CANADA.
Capacitty of cut
Extension Cords
48˚ miter left and right
48˚ bevel left: 3˚ right
0˚ miter
Max. Height 3.9"
Max. Width 7.9"
Result Width 5.9"
Result Height 2.5"
Tools that have 3 wire cords requiring grounding must only be used with extension cords that have 3-
prong grounding type plugs and 3-pole receptacles. Only round jacketed extension cords should be
used, and we recommend that they be listed by Underwriters Laboratories (U.L.) (C.S.A. in Canada). If
the extension will be used outside, the cord must be suitable for outdoor use. The letters “WA” on the
cord jacket indicate that it is suitable for outdoor use. Any cord marked as outdoor can also be used
for indoor work.
45˚ miter
Max. Height 3.9"
Max. Width 5.5"
45˚ bevel
Max. Height 2.7”
Max Width 7.9”
Result Width 4.1"
Result Height 2.5"
Result Width 5.9”
Result Height 1.7”
Drive
An extension cord must have adequate wire size (AWG or American Wire Gauge) for safety, and to
prevent loss of power and overheating. The smaller the gauge number of the wire, the greater the
capacity of the cable, that is 16 gauge has more capacity than 18 gauge. When using more than one
extension to make up the total length, be sure each individual extension contains at least the mini-
mum wire size. To determine the minimum wire size required, refer to the following chart:
2000 Watts out 13 Amp Motor
Cut Helical Gears with Ball Bearings
Carbide Blade, 4000 RPM
Automatic Electric Brake
Bench Mounting
120 VOOLT TOOOLS: CHART FOR MINIMUM WIRE SIZE (AWG) OF EXTENSION CORDS
Holes are provided in all four feet to facilitate bench mounting. (Two different sized holes are provided
to accommodate different sizes of screws. Use either hole, it is not necessary to use both.) Always
mount your saw firmly to prevent movement. To enhance the tool’s portability, it can be mounted to a
piece of 1/2” or thicker plywood which can then be clamped to your work support or moved to other
job sites and reclamped.
Cord Length (feet) 25
Guage: 16
50
14
75
12
100
10
NOTE:: If you elect to mount your saw to a piece of plywood, make sure that the mounting screws
don’t protrude from the bottom of the wood. The plywood must sit flush on the work support. When
clamping the saw to any work surface, clamp only on the clamping bosses where the mounting screw
holes are located. Clamping at any other point will surely interfere with the proper operation of the
saw.
Before using an extension cord, inspect it for loose or exposed wires, damaged insulation, and
defective fittings. Make any needed repairs or replace the cord if necessary. B&D has extension
cords available that are U.L. (C.S.A. in Canada) listed for outdoor use.
Unpacking Your Saw
CAUTIOON: To prevent binding and inaccuracy, be sure the mounting surface is not warped or other-
wise uneven. If the saw rocks on the surface, place a thin piece of material under one saw foot until
the saw sits firmly on the mounting surface.
Check the contents of your miter saw carton to make sure that you have received all parts. In addition
to this instruction manual, the carton should contain: one 3680 miter saw, one carbide saw blade
and one blade wrench in wrench pocket.
Figure 2
Figure 3
Familiarization
Your miter saw is fully assembled in the carton. Open the box and lift the saw out by the convenient
carrying handle, as shown in Figure 1. Place the saw on a smooth, flat surface such as a workbench or
strong table. Examine Figures on inside front cover of this manual to become familiar with the saw
and its various parts. The following section on adjust-
LOCK DOWN
PIN
ments will refer to these terms and you must know what
the parts are.
Press down lightly on the operating handle and pull out
the lock down pin, as shown in Figure 2. Gently release
the downward pressure and allow the arm to rise to its
full height. Use the lock down pin when carrying the saw
from one place to another. Always use the carrying han-
dle or the hand indentations to transport the saw.
GUARD BRACKET
SCREW
Figure 1
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Installing the Blade
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
Transporting the Saw
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
In order to conveniently carry the miter saw from place to place, a carrying handle has been included
on the top of the saw arm. To transport the saw, lower the arm and depress the lock down pin shown
in Figure 2.
DO NOT CUT FERROUS METAL (THAT WITH AN IRON OR STEEL CONTENT) OR MASONRY WITH
THIS MITER SAW.
1. With the saw arm in the upper position, raise the lower guard as far as possible.
2. Loosen (but do not remove) the guard bracket screw, shown in Figure 3 until the guard bracket can
be raised enough to permit access to the blade screw.
NOTE: The saw arm cannot be fully lowered if the tool has a blade installed unless the kerf plate has
been cut. If you wish to transport the saw before cutting the kerf plate, remove the saw blade.
3. Hold the lower guard up and depress the spindle lock button with one hand and use the supplied
blade wrench in the other hand to loosen (clockwise) the left hand threaded blade screw. NOTE: To
use the spindle lock, depress the button as shown and rotate the spindle by hand until you feel the
lock engage. Continue to hold the lock button in to keep the spindle from turning.
4. Install the saw blade making sure that the teeth at the bottom edge of the blade are pointing toward
the back of the saw (away from the operator).
5. Replace the outer blade washer and tighten the blade screw (counterclockwise) while holding the
lower guard up and the spindle lock engaged with your other hand.
NEVER DEPRESS THE SPINDLE LOCK BUTTON WHILE THE BLADE IS ROTATING.
Adjustments
PERFOORM ALL AADJUSTTMMENTS WIITH THE MMITER SAAW UNPLLUGGED!
NOTE: Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at the time of manufacture. If
readjustment due to shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow the steps below to
adjust your saw. Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take a little time now to fol-
low these directions carefully to attain the accuracy of which your saw is capable.
Miter Scale Adjustment
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as shown in Figure 6. (Do not touch the tips of
the blade teeth with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.)
2. Loosen the miter clamp knob (Figure 7) and swing the miter arm until the miter latch locks it at the
0 miter position. Do not tighten the clamp knob.
3. If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the three screws that hold the
miter scale to the base (Figure 7) and move the scale/miter arm assembly left or right until the
blade is perpendicular to the fence, as measured with the square.
AFTER INSTALLING THE SAW BLADE, REPOSITION GUARD BRACKET MAKING SURE IT IS FULLY
SEATED ON GUARD SCREW. FIRMLY TIGHTEN SCREW. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL CAUSE SERIOUS
DAMAGE TO THE SAW.
Rear Lower Guard Adjustment
Check the rear lower guard to ensure that it is located such that the saw blade is in the center and
equidistant from each side, as shown in Figures 4 & 5. Adjust as necessary by loosening the two
screws and moving the guard. Firmly tighten both screws. Never remove this guard.
4. Retighten the three screws. Pay no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this time.
Cutting the Kerf
In order to adjust and use your miter saw, you must cut a slot through the kerf plate to allow for blade
clearance. To cut the kerf plate:
1. Set the saw at 0˚ miter.
2. Place a piece of scrap wood on the kerf plate at least 1"x6"x12".
3. Turn the saw on and allow the blade to reach full speed.
4. Pull the saw arm down as far as it will go and CUT SLOWLY THROUGH THE SCRAP WOOD AND
THE PLASTIC KERF PLATE.
5. Turn the saw off and allow the blade to stop before raising the saw arm.
6. Loosen and move the left side of the fence as far as it will go to the left.
7. Now adjust the bevel angle to 45˚.
8. Once again, turn on the saw and allow the blade to reach full speed.
9. Pull the arm down and cut slowly through the wood and kerf plate again. (This procedure will
widen the kerf plate cut so that the blade will pass through it at any angle from 0˚ to 45˚).
Be sure to adjust the left side of the fence so that it’s as close to the saw blade as possible without
interfering with arm up & down movement. Tighten the fence in position using both knobs. Don’t use
without kerf plate or when kerf slot is wider than 3/8”.
Figure 5
Figure 4
OUTER CLAMP
SAW BLADE
WASHER
INNER CLAMP
WASHER
BLADE
SCREW
REAR LOWER
GUARD
DISTANCES
FROM BLADE
MUST BE EQUAL
REAR LOWER
GUARD
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2. Adjust the stop screw up or down as necessary until the pointer indicates 45˚ with the bevel arm
resting against the left side bevel stop screw.
Figure 6
Figure 7
3. Hold the screw stationary while you firmly tighten the lock nut. DO NOT ADUST THE BEVEL
POINTER.
5
5
4
4
To achieve 3˚ right bevel or 48˚ left bevel, the top screws must be adjusted to allow the bevel arm to
move as necessary. Re-adjust the bevel stops when the cuts are finished.
5
5
5
3
45
45
75 5
1
70
20
50
40
65
25
55
35
60
30
MITER
SCALE
Fence Adjustment
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
So that the saw can bevel to a full 48˚ left, the left side of the fence can be adjusted to the left to pro-
vide clearance. To adjust the fence:
1. Loosen the 2 plastic knobs shown in Figure 11 and slide the fence to the left.
2. Make a dry run with the saw turned off and check for clearance.
MITER CLAMP
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
MITER
LATCH
3. Adjust the fence to be as close to the blade as practical to provide maximum work piece support,
without interfering with arm up & down movement.
4. Tighten both knobs securely.
Miter Pointer Adjustment
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Loosen the miter clamp knob and squeeze the miter latch to
move the miter arm to the 0 position, as shown in Figure 7.
2. With the miter clamp knob loose, allow the miter latch to snap
into place as you rotate the miter arm pass 0.
5. When the bevel operations are complete, don’t forget to relocate the fence to the right.
NOTE:: The guide groove - Figure 12, of the left side fence can become clogged with sawdust. If you
notice that it is becoming clogged, use a stick or some low pressure air to clear the guide groove.
65
25
1
Guard Actuation and Visibility
3. Observe the pointer and miter scale through the viewing
opening shown in Figure 8. If the pointer does not indicate
exactly 0, use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently pry it left or
right as required.
POINTER
Figure 8
MITER
SCALE
The blade guard on your saw has been designed to automatically raise when the arm is brought down
and to lower over the blade when the arm is raised.
The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw.
NEVER RAISE THE BLADE GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS THE SAW IS TURNED OFF.
Bevel Stop Adjustment
NOTE: Certain special cuts will require that you manually raise the guard. (See page 9- Cutting Base
Molding up to 3 7/8" High Vertically Against the Fence.)
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
1. Lower the saw arm so that the blade just slightly goes through the kerf plate.
NOTE: Do not touch the tip of
2. Place a square against the table and the blade, as shown in Figure 9.
The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while cutting. Although the louvers dramatical-
ly reduce flying debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should be worn at all times
when viewing through the louvers.
any blade teeth with the square; to do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.
3. Loosen the bevel clamp knob so that you can move the bevel arm.
4. Move the bevel arm as necessary so that the blade is at 0˚ bevel to the table.
5. If the bevel arm needs adjustment, loosen the lock nut on the right side bevel stop as shown in
Figure 10, and adjust the stop screw as necessary.
Figure 9
Figure 10
6. Hold the stop screw in place and tighten the lock nut.
BEVEL STOP
7. If the bevel pointer does not indicate 0, loosen the screw that holds it in place and move the point-
er as necessary. SSuuggggessttion: The bevel pointer is quite thick so for accuracy’s sake, set the point-
er so that its top edge aligns with 0. This way all reading will be on the top edge of the pointer.
STOP SCREW
BEVEL CLAMP
KNOB
8. Loosen the left side fence clamping knobs, as shown in Figure 11 and slide the left side fence as
far as it will go to the left.
9. Move the bevel arm to the left to the 45˚ setting.
If the bevel pointer does not indicate exactly 45˚, the bevel arm is out of adjustment. To adjust the arm:
1. Loosen the lock nut on the left side bevel stop screw as shown in Figure 11.
BEVEL POINTER
SCREW
LOCK NUT
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TOOL OPERATION
Plug the saw into any 120 volt 60 Hz power source.
Be sure the cord will not interfere with your work.
GUIDE GROOVE
HOLE FOR PAD LOCK
LEFT SIDE
BEVEL STOP
SCREW
Switch
E
C
N
E
E
F
R
T
O
S
EF
U
J
B
E
S
D
Y
A
L
U
S
Y
A
W
R
L
A
R
E
P
O
P
To turn the saw ON, depress the trigger switch- Figure 13.
To turn the tool OFF, release the switch. There is no provi-
sion for locking the switch ON, but a hole is provided in
the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the saw OFF.
LEFT SIDE
FENCE
CLAMPING
KNOBS
R
E
Y
WA E
B
LAD
G
N
A
D
P
A
E
KE
O
FR
M
If your saw will not start, check the following:
Make sure tool is plugged in.
Replace blown fuses or reset circuit breakers if needed.
Have damaged cords replaced.
Figure 11
Figure 12
TRIGGER
SWITCH
Have worn out brushes replaced.
Electric Brake
Figure 13
Your saw is equipped with an electric blade brake which stops the saw blade within 5 seconds of trig-
ger release. This is automatic and requires no adjustment.
Cutting with your saw
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion
Occasionally, under certain conditions, the brake will not function properly and won’t stop the saw in
the 5 seconds discussed above. If this condition persists, turn the saw on and off four or five times. If
the brake still does not stop the blade in about 5 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace
the brushes as described on page 12 and try the saw again. If this condition occurs, have the tool ser-
viced at a B&D authorized service center.
to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials.
DO NOT CUTT FERROUS
(IRON ANDD STEEL) MMATERIALLS OR MASSOONRY WITHH THIS SAWW. Do not use any abrasive blades.
Crosscuts
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the
miter arm at the 0˚ position. Set the miter arm at 0, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the
fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch shown in Figure 13.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly cut through
the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than 0˚. This angle is often 45˚ for
making corners, but can be set anywhere from 0˚ to 48˚ left or right. After selecting the desired miter
angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp knob. Make the cut as described above.
Bevel Cuts
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel,
loosen the bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary to move the left
side of the fence to allow clearance as you did under “Bevel Stop Adjustment”. Once the desired bevel
angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 3˚ right to 45˚ left and can be cut with the miter arm set between 0˚ and
45˚ right or left.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type,
blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth or greater
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
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Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade
come to a full stop before raising the arm. If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the work
piece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
When clamping small pieces requiring your hand to be dangerously close (within 6”) to the saw blade,
a clamp MUUSSTT be used to prevent loss of control. The left fence may be adjusted to aid clamping.
Support for Long Pieces
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended accessories for your saw and select
the blade that best fits your needs.
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
For best results, use the 36800 Extension Work Support to extend the table width of your saw.
Available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long work pieces using any convenient means such
as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Body and Hand Position (See Figure 14)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier,
more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6" from the
blade. Hold the work piece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until
the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes, and other four sided
projects
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects
using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE
PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS AS SHOWN BELOW.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 15. Sketch A shows a
joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45˚ each to produce
a 90˚ corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the 0 position and the bevel adjustment was
locked at 45˚. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against
the fence.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and
right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when
following a pencil line.
Clamping the Work Piece
TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames
ALWAYS CLAMP WOOD TO THE SAW IF POSSIBLE AND ALWAYS CLAMP IF SIZE OF WORK PIECE
REQUIRES YOUR HAND TO BE WITHIN 6" OF BLADE. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade
and remember to position your clamp against a solid, flat surface of the fence. For best results use the
36802 clamp made for use with your saw. Available from your dealer at extra cost.
Sketch B in Figure 15 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45˚ to miter the 2 boards to form
a 90˚ corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to 0 and the miter arm to 45˚. Once
again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The 2 sketches in Figure 15 are for four side objects only. As the number of sides changes, so do the
miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes. (The chart
assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the follow-
ing formula. 180˚ divided by the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
IMPROPER CUT
PROPER CUT
Figure 14
Cutting Compound Miters
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the
type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 16.
E
E
NC
FE
ST
JU
AD
US
S
ER
O
RE
AY
W
PR
B
EF
AL
LY
OP
E
NC
E
US
FE
ST
EF
JU
AD
S
ER
O
RE
AY
W
PR
B
AL
LY
OP
Y
E
AD
A
M
K
Y
W
E
D
P
M
- EXAMMPLES -
Figure 15
NO. SIDES
MITERR ANGLE
4
5
45°
36°
6
30°
7
8
9
25.7°
22.5°
20°
A
10
18°
B
7
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Figure V1
Figure 16
Figure 17
KERF PLATE
Figure V2
65
25
65
25
MITER ARM
ANGLE “A”
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock
knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or
miter.
CENTER MARK ON VERNIER SCALE ALIGNS
WITH DESIRED WHOLE ANGLE ON MITER
SCALE (24˚ RIGHT MITER)
1/4˚ VERNIER MARK ALIGNS WITH CLOSEST
WHOLE DEGREE MARK ON MITER SCALE
(24˚ 1/4˚ RIGHT MITER).
The chart shown on page 10 will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for com-
mon compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure 17) of your project
and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down
to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Vernier Scale
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. The vernier scale allows you to accu-
rately set miter angles to the nearest 1/4˚ (15 minutes). To use the vernier scale follow the steps listed
below.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together
until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
(As an example, let’s assume that the angle you want to miter is 24 1/4˚ right).
1. Turn off miter saw.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (Angle A, Table 1), use the upper right arc.
Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle setting
on saw (23°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle
setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.
2. Set the miter angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning the center mark in the vernier
scale, shown in Figure V1, with the whole degree number etched in the miter scale. Examine Figure
V1 closely; the setting shown is 24˚ right miter.
Dual Range Miter Scale
3. To set the additional 1/4˚, squeeze the miter arm lock and carefully move the arm to the RIGHT
until the 1/4˚ vernier mark aligns with the CLOSEST degree mark on the miter scale. In our exam-
ple, the closest degree mark on the miter scale happens to be 25˚. Figure V2 shows a setting of 24-
1/4˚ right miter.
The miter scale has two ranges of numbers for conve-
nience, as shown in Figure 18. One scale indicates 0˚
when the blade is square to the fence. At this position the
other scale reads 90˚.
For settings that require partial degrees (1/4˚, 1/2˚, 3/4˚) align the desired vernier mark with the CLOS-
EST degree mark on the miter scale, as described below (The plastic vernier plate is inscribed with
marks for 1/4˚, 1/2˚, 3/4˚ and 1˚. Only the 1/2˚ and the 1˚ are numerically labeled.)
The 0˚ scale (larger numbers closer to the front edge) is
used when calculating angles. To calculate the proper
miter angle, divide 180˚ by the number of sides of the box
or frame. Refer to the chart on page 7 for some exam-
ples.
MITER
SCALE
When Mitering to the Right
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier
mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle when mitering
to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter
scale to the left.
The 90˚ scale (smaller numbers behind the 0˚ scale) is
used when a corner of your box or frame is measured
with a protractor. For example: if you measure the cor-
ner of an 8 sided box, the protractor will read 135˚. To
determine the proper miter setting, divide the measured
angle by two. The proper miter setting in this example is
67-1/2˚. Set this angle on the 90˚ scale. This is most use-
ful when a corner is at an odd angle.
Figure 18
When Mitering to the Left
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier
mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to
the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to
the right.
8
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Cutting 3-7/8"– 5-1/2" base molding vertically against
the fence
Cutting Base Molding
Figure 21
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Position molding as shown in Figure 20. All cuts made with the
back of the molding against the fence.
INSIDE CORNER:
Straight 90˚ cuts –Position the wood against the fence and clamp it in place as shown in Figure 19.
Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Left side: 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the table of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Cutting base molding up to 3-7/8” high vertically against the fence
Position molding as shown in Figure 20. All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
and bottom of the molding against the table.
Right side: 1. Position molding with top of the molding resting
on the table of the saw
INSIDE CORNER
:
Left side:
1. Miter left 45°
2. Save left side of cut
1. Miter Right 45°
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Right side:
2. Save right side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side: 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the table of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
Left side:
1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
1. Miter left at 45°
Figure 22
NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the
end of the molding: cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" longer
than your final length then make the miter cut as described
above.
Right side:
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 3.9" (3-7/8)" can be cut as described above. For wider boards [up to 5.5" (5-1/2")] sev-
eral minor concessions must be made.
When cutting a board between 3.9" (3-7/8") and 5.5" (5-1/2") in width the guard will hang up on the
work piece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the
guard up just enough to clear the work piece, as shown in Figure 23. Once you have cleared the work
piece, you can release the guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider than 3.9" (3-7/8") standing vertically against
the fence as in Figure 20, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 inch from the end of the
board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw’s gear case to interfere with the work piece.
If you want to cut base molding between 3-7/8" and 5-1/2" wide vertically see the following the direc-
tions.
Right side: 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the table of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut
A third method of making the cut necessary for sketch A (Figure
15) is to make a 0˚ miter, 45˚ bevel cut. Your saw can cut a bevel
7 7/8” wide.
Cutting Base Molding Laying Flat and
Using the Bevel Feature
All cuts made with the saw set at 45˚ and 0 miter.
All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as
shown in Figures 21 and 22.
INSIDE CORNER:
Figure 20
Figure 19
Figure 23
Left side: 1. Position molding with top of molding against the
fence
2. Save left side of cut
Right side: 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side: 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
R
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
Right side: 1. Position molding with top of the molding against
the fence
2. Save right side of cut
9
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TABLEE 1 COMPOOUND MIITTER CUT
Figure 24
Figure 25
BOTTOM SIDE OF
MOLDING
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
45
5
0
8
8
5
7
CROWN
MOLDING
FENCE
0
7
5
6
40
40
35
30
25
20
0
6
TOP SIDE OF
MOLDING
5
5
TABLE
FENCE
0
5
SQUARRE BOX
TABLE
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
5
4
0
4
CROWN MOLDING FLAT ON TABLE
AND AGAINST FENCE
CROWN MOLDING FENCE AND
TABLE
5
3
5
0
8
8
5
7
0
7
0
3
5
6
0
6
Cutting Crown Molding
5
5
5
2
0
6-SIDDED BOX
5
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit
properly, crown molding must be mitered with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given
piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90˚. Most, but not all,
crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52˚ and a bottom
rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38˚.
5
0
8
8
5
5
4
7
0
7
5
6
0
0
2
0
4
6
5
5
8-SIDED35
BOX
0
5
15
10
5
5
4
0
3
5
1
0
4
5
5
2
3
Your miter saw has special preset miter latch points at 31.62˚ left and right for cutting crown molding
at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the bevel scale at 33.85˚.
0
3
0
2
0
1
5
2
2
5
1
1
0
1
The chart on the next page gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the
miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on your saw.) Since most
rooms do not have angles of precisely 90˚, you will have to fine tune your settings anyway.
5
0
5
5
0
1
5
BEVEL DEGRREE SEETTTING
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
ALTERRNATIVVE METTHHOD FOORR CUTTIING CRROOWN MOLLDING
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
SET THHIS BEVEEL ANGLLEE ON SAW
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the fence and the saw table, as shown in Figure
25.Use of the crown molding fence accessory is highly recommended because of its degree of
accuracy and convenience. The crown molding fence accessory is available at extra cost from your
local dealer or B&D service center.
Instructiions ffor cuuttting ccrownn molding laayingg flatt aand usiing thhe comppoundd features.
1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (See Figure 24).
2. The settings below are for all standard U.S. crown molding with 52˚ and 38˚ angles.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is that no bevel cut is required. Minute
changes in the miter angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This way, when corners
other than 90˚ are encountered, the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for them.
When setting bevel and
miter angles for all com-
pound miters, remember
that the angles presented
for crown moldings are
very precise and difficult to
set exactly. Since they can
easily shift slightly and very
few rooms have exactly
square corners, all settings
should be tested on scrap
molding.
Bevel SSetting
33.85°
Type oof Cut
LEFT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
RIGHT SIDE, INSIDE CORNER:
1. Bottom of molding against fence
2. Miter table set left 31.62°
3. Save left end of cut
LEFT SIDE, OUTSIDE CORNER:
1. Bottom of molding against fence
2. Miter table set left 31.62°
3. Save right end of cut
Use the 36807 crown molding fence accessory to maintain the angle at which the molding will be
on the wall. Place the bottom side (the side that will be against the wall) against the miter saw fence.
33.85°
33.85°
INSTRUCTTIONS FOR CCUTTING CRROWNMOLDINNG ANGLED BBETWEEEN THHEE FENCE ANDD THE TABLE
OF THEE SAW FFOOR ALL CCUTS:
1. Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part which goes against the wall when
installed) is against the fence and the top of the molding is resting on the base of the saw, as
shown in Figure 25.
RIGHT SIDE, OUTSIDE CORNER:
1. Top of molding against fence
2. Miter table set right 31.62°
3. Save right end of cut
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP
MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY
IMPORTANT!
2. The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest squarely on the fence and base of the saw.
33.85°
10
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INSIDE CORNER:
Figure 29
Figure 28
Left side: 1.Miter right at 45°
2. Save the right side of cut
Right side: 1.Miter left at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side: 1.Miter left at 45°
2. Save the right side of cut
Right side: 1.Miter right at 45°
2. Save left side of cut
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS TO CHECK FOR CLEARANCE AND CORRECTNESS OF CUTS.
RIGHT
WRONG
SPECIAAL CUTS
Cuttiing Larrge Matterial
NEVER MAKE ANY CUT WITHOUT FIRMLY CLAMPING THE MATERIAL.
Aluminumm Cuttting:
Aluminum extrusions such as those used when making aluminum screens and storm windows can
easily be cut with your saw. Position the material so that you will be cutting the thinnest cross section,
as shown in Figure 26. Figure 27 illustrates the wrong way to cut these extrusions.
Occasionally you will encounter a piece of wood a little too large to fit beneath the blade guard. A little
extra height can be gained by rolling the guard up out of the way, as shown in Figure 23. Avoid doing
this as much as possible, but if need be, the saw will operate properly and make the bigger cut.
NEVER TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE HOLD THE GUARD OPEN WHEN OPERATING THIS SAW.
Troubleshooting Tips
If your saw makes unsatifactory cuts:
Use a wax lubricant when cutting aluminum such as Johnson’s Stick Wax No. 140. Apply the stick
wax directly to the saw blade before cutting. Never apply stick wax to a moving blade.
The wax, available at most hardware stores and industrial mill supply houses, provides proper lubri-
cation and keeps chips from adhering to the blade.
Replace dull blades
Check to see if blade is mounted backwards.
Remove blade and clean with turpentine and coarse steel wool or household oven cleaner.
Check to make sure the blade you are using is appropriate for work being done.
Bowed Maaterial:
When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in Figure 28 and never like that shown in
Figure 29. Positioning the material incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade near the completion of
the cut.
If blade does not come up to speed:
Extension cord may be too light or too long.
You may have low house current.
Cutting Pllastiicc Pipe
If your machine vibrates excessively:
Saw may not be mounted securely to stand on work bench.
Stand may be on uneven floor.
CLAMPEDD OR HELD
Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut just like wood and
FIRMLLY TO TTHE FENCE TOO KEEPP IT FRROOM ROLLING.
Blade may be damaged.
Figure 27
Figure 26
BLADE
BLADE
FENCE
WRONG
RIGHT
FENCE
11
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MAINTENANCE
ACCESSORIES
1. All bearings are sealed ball bearings. They are lubricated for life and need no further maintenance.
Recommended accessories for use with your tool are available at extra cost from your distributor or
local service center. A complete listing of service centers is included with your tool.
2. Periodically clean all dust and wood chips from around AND UNDER the base and the rotary
table. Even though slots are provided to allow debris to pass through, some dust will accumulate.
CAUTION:: The use of any non-recommended accessory may be hazardous.
3. The brushes are designed to give you several years of use. If they ever need replacement follow
the instructions below or return the tool to the nearest service center for repair. Service center
locations are packed with your tool.
If you need any assistance in locating any accessory call 1-800-9-BD TOOL (1-800-923-8665) or con-
tact Black & Decker (U.S.) Inc., Consumer Service Department, 626 Hanover Pike, P.O. Box 618,
Hampstead, MD 21074.
Brushes
Extensiion, Worrkk Supportt: 36800
Inspect carbon brushes regularly:
1. TURN OFF TOOL AND DISCONNECT FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Remove the brush inspection cap.
3. Withdraw the brush assembly.
Used to support long overhanging work pieces, the work support is user assembled and stores con-
veniently under the saw table. Your saw table is designed to accept two work supports; one on each
side.
Adjusttable Lenngth Stoopp: 36801
Requires the use of one work support (see Figure). It is used to make repetitive cuts of the same
length from 0 to 42".
4. Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same ori-
entation in the holder as it was prior to its removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped
into their sides, and if the brush is worn down to the line closest to the spring, they must be
replaced. (If either brush is worn out, replace both.) Use only identical B&D brushes. Use of the
correct grade of brush is essential for proper operation of electric brake. New brush assemblies are
available at B&D service centers.
Clamp:: 36802
Used for firmly clamping work piece to the saw fence for precision cutting
Dust Bagg: 36803
Equipped with a zipper for easy emptying, the dust bag will capture the majority of the sawdust pro-
duced.
5. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load) for 10 minutes before use to seat new
brushes. The electric brake may be erratic in operation until the brushes are properly seated (worn
in).
Note:: Deflector on dust spout channels debris to ground. Spout has a provision to attach a vacuum
hose to collect sawdust. Lift deflector to connect hose.
NOTE:
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON.
HOLD BY HAND ONLY.
Crown MMoldinngg Fence:: 36807
Used for precision cutting of crown molding. Position crown molding consistently at the proper
angle from cut to cut.
Kit Boxx: 36806
Used to store and transport accessories.
APPLICCATION
BLADE
NO. OFF TEETH
60-100
TYPE OOF CUT
Fine Trim Molding
Precision
Ground Carbide
Very smooth
splinter free
Trim, Framing, Pressure-
Treated Decking
Combination
Multi-Purpose
32-60
60-80
Smooth fast cut
Aluminum
Non-Ferrous
Metal Cutting
____
12
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36800- EEXTENSIIOON, WORK SSUPPORT
Every B&D tool is of the highest quality.
If you wish to contact us regarding this product, please call toll free
between 8:00am and 8:00pm ET, seven days a week:
SELF-
TAPPING STUD
1-800-9-BD TOOL
LOCK NUTS
(1-800-923-8665)
STOP WASHER
AND SCREW
CLAMPING
BRACKET
END PLATE
IMPORTANT!
36801-- ADJUSTAABLE LENNGGTH STOP
To assure product safety and reliability, particularly for Double Insulated tools, repairs, maintenance
and adjustment (excluding maintenance described in this manual) should be performed by B&D ser-
vice centers or authorized service centers, using identical B&D replacement parts.
One Year Service/Safety Check
All B&D tools for Industry and Construction are covered under a service/safety check program where
B&D will inspect your tool for safety and provide necessary maintenance or repairs, including normal
wear and tear parts, for one year, FREE OF CHARGE.
TOP HOLE (USE
IF ON LEFT SIDE
BOTTOM HOLE
(USE IF ON
KNOBS
RIGHT SIDE)
Full Warranty
BRACKET
All B&D tools for Industry and Construction are warranted to be free of any defects in materials or
workmanship. Upon thorough examination of tool, B&D will repair or replace, at our option, any prod-
uct that is determined to be defective.
Conditions
The service/safety check and the warranty do not apply to: repairs made or attempted by anyone other
than an authorized B&D service location; misuse, abuse, neglect, improper application of the tool;
missing parts; or normal wear and tear (after first year of ownership). Please return the complete unit,
transportation prepaid, to any B&D factory owned or B&D authorized service center location (list pro-
vided with tool or see Yellow Pages under “Tools Electric”).
36802-- CLAMP
36807-- CROWNN MMOLDINGG FENCE
O
JU
F
BE
D
LY
A
S
ER
Y
A
LW
A
P
O
R
P
These symbols on the nameplate mean the product is
listed by Underwriter’s Laboratories, Inc. and certified
by the Canadian Standards Association.
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Black & Decker (U.S.) Inc. • 701 East Joppa Road, Towson, Maryland 21286
Printed in U.S.A. (JAN94-CD-1) Form No. 159185 Copyright © 1994
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