Installation Instructions
Corvette C5
1997 - 2004
355mm Front
Big Brake Upgrade
ST-40 Caliper
98-180-1470
Rev. C 03-02-06
APPLICATION DISCLAIMER
Caliper Clearance
Most 17” wheels will clear the outer diameter of the caliper for a 328mm or 332mm rotor kit. For a
355mm kit, a minimum 18” wheel is typically required, and for a 380mm rotor kit, a minimum 19”
wheel is needed. The more critical clearance, however, is the gap between the spokes of the wheel
and the face of the caliper. Do not assume that a larger-diameter wheel will automatically clear the
face of the caliper.
To determine the actual metal-to-metal distance from the stock rotor face to the inside of the wheel
spokes, refer to the StopTech website at www.stoptech.com, and click on the ‘Wheel Fitment’ link
in the ‘Technical Information’ section. Review the instructions carefully, to ensure that you have a
full understanding of how to accurately measure the critical wheel clearances.
It is very important that you verify the accuracy of the scale of the printout by matching both a
width and length dimension on your vehicle. Dimensions are shown in millimeters, but one di-
mension in each direction is also shown in inches, and StopTech recommends adding at least 2mm
of additional clearance to these dimensions. Follow the instructions carefully, to produce a fitment
template, and take care to ensure that your measurements are very precise. If you have any ques-
tions or difficulties, please contact the StopTech Customer Service Department on (310) 325-4799 -
extension 105, or send an e-mail to support@stoptech.com.
Note: Final fitment of the wheel to the caliper is the responsibility of the customer.
Wheel Spacers
Wheel spacers can provide extra clearance to the outer face of the caliper. This will also space out the
entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Fender clearances should be checked on
lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts are usually required.
Note: The Wheel Industry Council has issued guidelines advising that wheel spacers not be
used. It is the responsibility of the customer to ensure that wheel spacers are properly
specified and installed.
Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the finish on any caliper or
aluminum anodized finish, especially the plating on the hardware. Check for adverse effects by
trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an inconspicuous area. Avoid over-spraying,
and rinse cleaning solutions off as quickly as possible. StopTech is not liable for damage to calipers,
hats or bracket finishes, due to corrosive chemical exposure.
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APPLICATION DISCLAIMER (Cont’d.)
Brake Noise
Certain brake pad compounds make more noise than others. Proper anti-squeal shim plates be-
tween the caliper pistons and backing plate of the pad help to reduce the problem. Anti-squeal
lubricants are also available, to reduce some of the noise. The reality is that performance pads are
more prone to brake squeal.
Note: The customer is responsible for any squeal-related problems due to pad selection.
Permanent Modification to Lower Ball Joints
It may be necessary to grind a portion of each lower ball joint, to clear the inboard face of the rotor
during full suspension travel. If done carefully, this modification will not affect the strength or
structural integrity of the vehicle. Although a coarse file will remove the material, a power grinder,
if used properly, will be more efficient. If you are uncomfortable making this modification, seek
the help of a qualified professional.
Brake Vibration - THIS IS IMPORTANT!
The most common cause of brake vibration is improper bed-in of pads and rotors, or improper pad
selection for the specific driving environment. Rotor run-out may also cause vibration, but preci-
sion manufacturing and inspection typically mean that run-out is not an issue. Modern produc-
tion methods ensure that the rotor run-out is within +/- 0.002” when installed on a StopTech alumi-
num hat, and it controls thickness variation to within 0.0003”. Under the most extreme conditions,
any rotor may warp, but uneven pad deposition is a more typical cause of vibration. If the system
is not properly bedded-in, or if street pads are run on an open track, uneven pad deposits will occur,
causing an ever-worsening vibration. Failure to immediately address a pad deposition/vibration
issue may lead to permanent damage of the rotors. Please read and understand the bed-in proce-
dure included in this manual. If you have any questions, please contact the StopTech Customer
Service Department on (310) 325-4799 - extension 105, or you can e-mail directly to
support@stoptech.com.
Note: StopTech is not liable for vibrations caused by extreme usage or improper bed-in of
pads and rotors.
All trademarks are properties of their respective owners. StopTech LLC is neither associ-
ated nor affiliated with, nor sponsored by General Motors.
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Important Notices
Wheel Fitment
Do not assume that your wheels will fit. An outline drawing of your StopTech Big Brake kit is
available in the ‘Technical Information’ section of our website at www.stoptech.com. Measure the
distance from the outer face of your stock caliper to the inner face of your wheel spokes, or make a
template according to the instructions on the website, to determine if a wheel spacer is necessary.
DO THIS BEFORE YOU INSTALL YOUR KIT!
Cleaning of Rotors
The AeroRotors supplied with this kit are coated with a water-soluble, environmentally friendly
rust inhibitor. This coating MUST BE WASHED OFF WITH SOAP AND WATER before installa-
tion. Brake cleaner is not as effective as soap and water. Even if it doesn’t look as if anything is
coming off the rotor, the rust inhibitor is there, and must be entirely cleaned. Rotors will quickly
rust without protection, so if the rotor is not rusty, it’s still coated. After cleaning, you may see the
rotor start to develop a slight rust color. This is normal, and indicates that all of the rust inhibitor
has been removed.
Rotor and Pad Bed-in
Proper rotor and pad bed-in is essential to the performance of your new brake system. Failure to
properly bed-in the brakes will seriously impact how well they work, and how long they will last.
The number one cause of brake vibration is uneven pad material deposition on the rotor. Proper
bed-in will greatly minimize such problems. Follow, as closely as possible, the bed-in procedure
detailed later in this manual, or refer to the StopTech website at www.stoptech.com for further
information.
Safety Notice
Improper handling of a vehicle, especially while raised and supported by jack stands, ramps or
other mechanical means, can cause serious bodily injury or even death. It is strongly recommended
that a trained, experienced mechanic, with proper equipment, install the Big Brake Kit supplied by
StopTech LLC. StopTech LLC assumes no liability, expressed or implied, for the improper installa-
tion or use of this product or its components.
Liability No Warranty
Automobile racing and performance driving, whether sanctioned or not, on or off the road, are
dangerous. Products used in such environments/applications are subject to stresses and conditions
outside of normal use, wear and tear. All equipment sold or provided by StopTech LLC is sold
WITHOUT WARRANTY, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. No warranty or representation is made to
the product’s ability to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes all risk. StopTech
LLC is NOT responsible for any damage, consequential or otherwise, for equipment failure or mal-
performance after installation. Under no circumstances is StopTech liable for labor charges or loss
of use.
Contact StopTech
If you have any questions about wheel fitment, rotor cleaning, or bed-in of a particular pad type,
please call StopTech’s Customer Service Department on (310) 325-4799 - extension 105, or you can
e-mail directly to support@stoptech.com.
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Corvette C5 Front Axle Kit
Note: It is important to read and understand this ENTIRE installation manual, including
the bed-in procedure, before starting the installation.
Kit Contents
Your StopTech Big Brake kit includes the following:
1 pair of ST-40 four-piston calipers, sized specifically for your vehicle
1 set of high-performance street pads (not suitable for track use)
1 pair of 355 x 32mm two-piece rotor assemblies
1 pair of aluminum caliper adapter brackets
2 pair of 7/16-20 self-locking Jet nuts
2 pair of 12mm washers
1 pair of stainless steel brake lines
1 pair of banjo bolts
2 pair of copper crush washers
1 pair of rubber end caps
1 caplet of Loctite 262
Tools and Equipment Required
Note: Different models and years of vehicle use different-sized fasteners, and every effort has
been taken to correctly identify the proper sized tool for each step of the installation. Occa-
sionally, however, manufacturers use alternate fasteners, so it’s advisable to check that each
tool correctly fits the fastener before loosening or tightening it.
The following tools and equipment will be needed:
21mm wrench or socket (1/2” drive suggested)
14mm wrench or socket
13mm flare wrench
11mm box wrench
11/16” wrench
1/2” wrench or socket (3/8” drive suggested)
Torque wrenches capable of 10-125 lb-ft settings
5mm Allen (hex) wrench
Needle-nose or small standard pliers
Coarse file or power grinder
Anti-seize compound
Small drip tray or several rags
Small funnel or suitable means of filling master cylinder reservoir
Brake bleed bottle
Plastic or non-marring mallet
1 pair of jack stands or other means of supporting vehicle
DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid (Check manufacturer’s recommendation for compatibility. StopTech rec-
ommends flushing brake fluid every one-to-two years, or more often under severe usage conditions.
If not done recently, the installation of a brake kit is an excellent opportunity to refresh your brake
fluid, or to upgrade to a higher-performance fluid, such as Motul 600.)
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Step 1
Raise Vehicle, and Remove Wheels
Note: All photographs show a right-hand side installation, unless otherwise noted.
A level, stable and clean surface, suitable for sup-
porting the vehicle on jack-stands, should be
used for the installation.
Warning: Never leave any vehicle supported
with only a jack. Always use jack-stands.
For a front kit installation, apply the parking
brake, then break loose the lug nuts on both
front wheels before jacking up the vehicle.
Jack up the vehicle, and secure it on a pair of
jack-stands, referring to the owner’s manual to
identify the correct jack and support locations.
After securing the vehicle at a convenient height,
remove the front wheels.
Note: To ensure safety, the parking brake
must be applied before removing the front
wheels.
If necessary, place a wheel nut on one of the
studs, to prevent the rotor from falling.
To make it easier to access the brake line fittings,
turn the steering either toward or away from the
side that you’re working on, depending on the
orientation of the caliper.
If you’re installing a leading caliper, turn the
steering toward the side that you’re working on,
and if you’re installing a trailing caliper, turn
the steering away from the side that you’re work-
ing on. This will make access to the caliper bolts
easier.
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Step 2
Disconnect Stock Brake Line
Warning: Brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake
fluid from any painted surface. Also be sure that the cap is securely installed on the master
cylinder. If the cap is loose or removed, it is likely that more fluid will drip during brake
installation.
Place a drip tray or several rags directly below
the inboard brake line connection. If the area
around the brake line connection to the chassis
is dirty, clean it using brake cleaner or an ap-
propriate cleaning agent.
Use a 13mm flare wrench to slightly loosen the
hard line fitting.
Use needle-nose or small standard pliers to re-
move the bracket holding the inboard end of
the stock brake line to the chassis bracket. Take
care to retain the clip for later use.
Remove the hard line fitting, and quickly place
one of the rubber caps over the end of the hard
line, to control fluid loss during the installation.
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Step 3
Remove Stock Caliper & Rotor
Remove the two stock caliper bolts, using a 21mm
wrench or socket, and retain the bolts for later
use.
Note: Factory-installed caliper bolts may be
very tight. Ensure that you have a good pur-
chase on the bolt head, and that you are in a
good position to turn the wrench or socket.
Remove the caliper with the stock brake line at-
tached. There may be some leakage from the
open end of the brake line, especially if the pads/
pistons on the caliper are retracted.
Remove the stock rotor, by pulling it off of the
hub by hand.
Note: It may be necessary to strike the outer
edge of the rotor with a non-marring mallet,
if corrosion prevents the rotor from simply
being pulled off. If so, place a wheel bolt in
one of the holes first, to prevent the rotor
from falling when it comes loose.
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Step 4
Install Caliper Bracket
Remove the Jet nuts and washers from the caliper
mounting bracket, and put them aside for later
use.
Place a few drops of the supplied Loctite 262 on
the threads of each stock caliper bolt.
Install the caliper bracket, using the stock cali-
per mounting bolts, with the bracket mounted
on the outboard side of the mounting lugs, and
the bolts inserted from the inboard side.
Tighten the caliper bracket bolts, using a 21mm
wrench or socket, then torque the bolts to 125
lb-ft.
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Step 5
Install AeroRotor Assembly
AeroRotors MUST be cleaned with soap and water prior to installation. Not doing so will damage
the rotors and pads, and will prevent the brakes from performing properly.
Even though the rotors may look clean, the rust
inhibitor is in place, and it must be removed.
Not cleaning the rotors will severely impact the
performance of your new brake system.
Warning: Do not skip this step!
Install the hat and rotor assembly, ensuring that
the rotor is seated squarely on the hub face. If
necessary, clean the face of the hub, using a wire
brush or similar means.
Place a couple of wheel nuts on the studs, to pre-
vent the rotor from falling during brake installa-
tion.
Note: Take care to ensure that the rotor assembly is on the correct side of the car, as reversing
the rotors will severely decrease the cooling capacity of the system. The rotors are clearly
marked “L” and “R” with orange tags on the rotor hats. If the tags are not legible, the vanes
inside the rotor should lean to the rear of the car on the top side of the rotor (see pages 13
and 14 for more-detailed images).
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Step 5 (Cont’d.)
Install AeroRotor Assembly
It may be necessary to clearance the lower ball
joint slightly, to clear the inboard face of the
AeroRotor during full suspension travel. A coarse
file can remove the material, although a power
grinder is more efficient, if used properly.
Install the rotor, and check the proximity of the
lower ball joint to the inner rotor face. Turn the
wheel lock-to-lock, to determine how far around
the front and back edge needs to be clearanced.
Note: If only the lip around the outer ridge is
removed, the structural integrity of the lower
ball joint will not be compromised. If you are
not comfortable making this modification, seek
the help of a qualified professional.
Remove the lip which protrudes around the outer
edge of the ball joint (the approximate area is
shown in the photograph to the left).
Ridge Width
Remove ridge in this area
With the suspension at FULL DROOP, there
should be a clearance of 3.5 - 4.8mm (1/8 - 3/16)
between the inner face of the rotor and the outer
diameter of the lower ball joint.
3.5 - 4.8mm
at full droop
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Left-Side Rotor
Outboard Side
Driver’s Left
Right-Side Rotor
Outboard Side
Driver’s Right
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Caliper Component Identification
Use a light film of anti-seize on the bridge
bolt shafts and threads
The ST-40 original equipment caliper uses a common Porsche-style pad.
The Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI) number for the pad backing plate is D372.
For further pad interchange information, please see the FAQ section of the StopTech website at:
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Step 6
Install Caliper and Pads
Note: The images in this section may not be of the vehicle noted, but they give a proper
representation of the correct installation.
Determine the left- and right-hand side calipers. They are clearly marked on the box, but as a check,
the bleed screws are always positioned at the top of the caliper. If installing a four-wheel kit, with ST-
40 calipers on the front and rear of the vehicle, be sure that the correct caliper is on each corner. The
calipers with the smaller piston sizes go on the rear of the vehicle.
Remove the two bolts holding the caliper bridge
in place, using a 5mm Allen wrench.
Bridge Bolts
Remove the caliper bridge, taking note of the di-
rection in which it is installed, and the correct
location of the pad-retaining wire clip, which
typically, but not always, remains attached to the
bridge.
Note: When the pad-retaining clip is oriented
correctly, its welded joint should not be vis-
ible through the bridge’s air-scoop opening.
In order to stiffen the caliper, the bridge must fit
snugly, and the bolts may be tight when remov-
ing them. Keep turning the bolts gently, with
pressure applied in the direction of removal.
After removing the bolts, it may be necessary to
tap the bridge out from the inside of the caliper,
using a mallet or similar tool (the handle of a
tool works well for this). With use, the bridge
and bolts will become easier to remove and in-
sert.
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Step 6 (Cont’d.)
Install Caliper and Pads
Install the caliper onto the adapter bracket, ori-
enting it so that the bleed screws are positioned
on the top side of the caliper.
Take care to ensure that the caliper is square and
evenly started on both studs. It may be necessary
to use a mallet to gently tap the caliper into posi-
tion.
Install a Jet nut onto each stud, with a 12mm
washer under each nut. Tighten the Jet nuts to
40 lb-ft of torque, using a 1/2” wrench or socket.
Slide the brake pads into position within the cali-
per, taking care to ensure that the friction side of
each pad is facing the rotor.
(Yes, they’ve been installed backward before!)
Apply a light film of anti-seize compound onto
the bridge bolt shafts and threads.
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Step 6 (Cont’d.)
Install Caliper and Pads
Install the bridge by sliding it into position, and
rocking it until one of the bolt holes lines up.
Take care to ensure that the bridge is slid straight
and parallel into the caliper body opening.
Note: The bridge is directional, and should
be positioned so that the air-scoop opening is
located in the bottom half of the bridge.
Insert the first bridge bolt, from the outside of
the caliper, and start the first few threads, using a
5mm Allen wrench.
Start the second bolt, and apply pressure to the
bridge, using the palm of your hand, or by gen-
tly tapping the bridge with a mallet, until the
bolt engages in the hole. Start the first few threads,
using a 5mm Allen wrench.
Double-check the orientation of the bridge, to
ensure that the air-scoop opening is located in
the bottom half of the bridge.
Torque each bolt to approximately 8-10 lb-ft,
using a 5mm Allen wrench. Do not use a torque
wrench, as the use of anti-seize compound will
cause a false reading. Do not over-torque the
bridge bolts - snug is tight enough.
Warning: Do not hammer the bridge bolts
into place. Tap the bridge, not the bolts!
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Step 7
Attach Stainless Steel Brake Line
Install the caliper end of the stainless steel brake
line by first placing a copper crush washer on
either side of the banjo fitting, then inserting the
banjo bolt into the fitting.
Copper
Banjo bolt
Insert the banjo bolt into the caliper, angling the
banjo fitting so that it is leaning slightly forward.
Torque the banjo bolt to approximately 14 lb-
ft, using a 14mm wrench or socket.
Note: Do not use a torque wrench, as over-
tightening the bolt can strip the aluminum
threads, causing irreparable damage to the
caliper.
Remove the rubber cap from the hard line, and
screw the stainless steel brake line onto the hard
line fitting by hand for a few turns.
Use an 11/16” wrench to hold the stainless line
fitting, while using a 13mm flare wrench to
tighten the hard line fitting.
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Step 7 (Cont’d.)
Attach Stainless Steel Brake Line
Reinstall the line-retaining spring clip, to secure
the stainless brake line in place.
Take care to ensure that the prongs on the spring
clip are seated within the recesses on the brake
line fitting, then use a mallet to gently tap the
spring clip into place.
After securing the brake line, turn the wheels lock-
to-lock to ensure that the line is not binding or
touching any moving part of the suspension.
Adjust the line, if necessary, by re-clocking the
banjo bolt on the caliper, or by reorienting the
inboard line fitting.
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Step 8
Bleed Brakes
Complete the installation on both sides of the vehicle before bleeding the system.
Note: The calipers and lines will need to fill with fluid, quickly draining the master cylinder
reservoir. Keep a close watch on the fluid level when initially bleeding the system. Do not allow
the master cylinder reservoir to run dry, and to draw in air. Doing so may result in the brake
system needing to be serviced by a certified brake technician.
Bleed the brake system, using an 11mm box wrench, to loosen the bleed screws. The sequence for
bleeding the brakes should be:
1. Right outboard bleed screw
2. Right inboard bleed screw
3. Left outboard bleed screw
4. Left inboard bleed screw
Though a torque wrench is not typically used on bleed screws, as a reference, the torque for bleed
screws should be approximately 100-140 lb-INCH.
After initially bleeding the system, gently tap the caliper body with a mallet to dislodge any small
air bubbles, then re-bleed the brakes.
After bleeding, apply constant pressure to the brake pedal, and check all connections - including
bleed screws, and both ends of the brake line - for leaks.
Warning: Brake fluid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled brake
fluid from any painted surface, including the caliper. Though caliper paint is designed to resist
harsh chemicals, prolonged exposure will damage the finish.
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Step 9
Reinstall Wheels
It is very important to check the wheel-to-caliper clearance before installing wheels!
Note: Some wheels are balanced on the inside, with adhesive-backed lead weights. If the
weight is on the outboard edge, behind the spokes, it may interfere with the caliper. If neces-
sary, note the weight and location of the lead, and place a new piece of the same weight further
inboard or outboard, to clear the caliper. If you rotate the tires regularly, check the lead weight
positions on all four wheels, and also on the spare, if it is full-sized.
Reinstall the wheels, and torque the lug nuts to your wheel manufacturer’s specifications. It may be
necessary to snug the bolts before lowering the vehicle, and to then torque the wheels when the car is
on the ground. Alternatively, an assistant may depress the brake pedal while you tighten the wheel
nuts to the proper torque setting.
Carefully test-drive the vehicle in a safe area, at low speed, to ensure that all components are working
correctly. Then follow the pad and rotor bed-in procedure on the following pages.
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AeroRotor Installation & Bed-in Procedure
READ THIS NOW
FAILURE TO READ, UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW THESE PROCEDURES
WILL CAUSE PERMANENT DAMAGETO YOUR BRAKE ROTORS, AND WILL
KEEP THE SYSTEM FROM WORKING AT ITS FULL CAPACITY.
The majority of brake system problems are due to improper installation and/or bed-in of the rotors
and pads. By reading and understanding the following, you will avoid the most common causes of
poor brake performance and vibration. FAILURE TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THIS MAY
CAUSE SERIOUS PERMANENT DAMAGE TO YOUR NEW ROTORS.
Wash Non-Plated AeroRotors with SOAP
AND WATER before installation.
StopTech coats non-plated AeroRotors with a water-soluble, environmentally friendly rust inhibitor
that MUST be cleaned off before use. A non-plated rotor looks like bare metal, while plated rotors
are bright silver in color, and do not need to be washed. Even though you may not see a change in the
rotor color, if the rotor is not rusty, the rust inhibitor is there. Use soap and water, NOT BRAKE
CLEANER to wash the rotors. A small piece of Scotchbrite works well for scrubbing. When cleaned
and rinsed properly, the surface of the rotor may show a light rust color, which is normal.
Bed-in your new pads and rotors by carefully ob-
serving the procedure described on this and the
following page.
Bed-in of rotors and pads is critical to the optimum performance of your new brakes. When bedding-
in new parts, you are not only heat-cycling the pads, you are also depositing a layer of pad material
onto the rotor face. If not bedded-in properly, an uneven layer of pad material will be deposited onto
the rotor, causing vibration. Virtually every instance of a “warped” rotor is attributed
to uneven pad deposition.
Note: Plated rotors must be driven with gentle braking, until the CAD plating is worn off of the
rotor faces, BEFORE starting the bed-in procedure. Do not use brakes aggressively until the
plating is worn off, typically after several miles of driving.
Typically, a heavy-braking street driver will experience approximately 1 to 1.1G’s of deceleration. At
this rate, the ABS will be activated on such equipped vehicles. A moderate braking effort is needed to
properly bed-in rotors and pads. If ABS intervention or lockup were represented as 100% brake
effort, a stopping force of approximately 70-80%, just short of ABS intervention or lockup, is a
general estimate of the pedal effort you are trying to achieve.
(Continued on next page)
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Rotor and Pad Bed-in (Cont’d.)
Note: Bedding-in of pads should not be done in poor weather conditions, nor on wet roads.
After completing the installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each
stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle.
During the 60 to 5-10 MPH cycle of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately
60, then begin braking. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer.
Keep your eyes on the road, and approximate your speed at the end of each stop. DO NOT COME
TO A COMPLETE STOP, WHILE LEAVING YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, AS YOU
MAY IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.
If racing or higher-performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10 MPH, and
if full race pads are being used, add four stops from 100 to 5-10 MPH.
There are several indicators to look for while bedding-in the system:
On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may also be evident
after several stops.
Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction material will experience “green fade.” This is a slight fading
of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but will not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.
After the bed-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint on the rotor, with a light gray film on the
rotor face. The blue tint indicates that the rotor has reached the proper bed-in temperature, and the
gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal!
After the first bed-in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at
their best capacity. A second or third bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the
brakes really start to “come in.” A “cycle” is a series of stops, followed by a cool-
down.
StopTech does not endorse speeding on public roads. If going above the legal speed
limit, do so in a safe area, away from traffic, and at your own risk.
After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes, to cool off the
system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using them
again.
DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP WHEN THE SYSTEM IS HOT, WHILE LEAVING
YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. PAD MATERIAL MAY TRANSFER ONTO THE
ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.
If you have any questions about rotor and pad bed-in, any aspect of your StopTech brake kit, or
brakes in general, please contact the StopTech Customer Service Department at (310) 325-4799 -
extension 105, or e-mail us at support@stoptech.com
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Thank you for selecting StopTech.
We realize that you had a choice when selecting a big brake upgrade for your vehicle,
and we know that you’ll be happy with our system.
We proudly support our fine products. For any assistance or
questions, please contact our Customer Service Department
at
(310) 325-4799 - extension 105
or e-mail us at
support@stoptech.com
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