Vermont Casting Electric Heater 2479 User Manual
Non-Catalytic  
Convection  
Heater  
Model 2479  
Homeowner’s Installation and Operating Manual  
SAFETY NOTICE  
If this heater is not properly installed, operated, and maintained, a house fire may result.  
For safety, follow all installation, operation and maintenance directions. Contact local  
building officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your  
area.  
DO NOT DISCARD THIS MANUAL: Retain for future use  
30002291 10/06 Rev. 10  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Specifications  
A
D
C
G
F
B
E
H
Model 2479  
A
B
29¹⁄₄” (743 mm)  
29³⁄₄” (756 mm)  
C
D
E
32¹⁄₂” (826 mm)  
24¹⁄₂” (622 mm)  
19” (483 mm)  
F
G
H
30¹⁄₄” (768 mm) Center of Flue Collar, Rear Exit  
34” (864 mm)  
5³⁄₄” (146 mm)  
Log length  
24” (610 mm)  
Maximum burn time1  
Average area heated (sq. ft.)2  
Range of heat output4  
Up to 14 hrs.  
1000 - 2400 (93 - 223 m2)  
11,300 - 26,500 Btu/hr.  
55,000 Btu/hr.  
Maximum heat output1  
EPA emissions rating4 (g/h, non-catalytic)  
1.31  
Weight  
Loading  
480 lbs. (218 kg)  
Side or front  
Flue exit position (reversible)  
Air control  
Top or rear  
One  
Fig. 1 Dutchwest Convection Heater specifications.  
1. Maximum burn times and heat outputs are based on laboratory testing using full loads of seasoned hardwoods, and may vary in individual use  
depending on how the stove is operated, type and moisture content of fuels, and other factors. Maximum burn times are achieved under different  
operating conditions than are maximum heat outputs.  
2. These values are based on operation in building code-conforming homes under typical Winter climate conditions in the northeastern U.S. If your  
home is of nonstandard construction (e.g. unusually well-insulated, not insulated, built underground, or if you live in a more severe or more temper-  
ate climate), these figures may not apply. Since so many variables affect performance, consult your Dutchwest Authorized Dealer to determine  
realistic expectations for your home.  
4. Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions testing.  
30002291  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Installation  
SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-  
VECTION HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED,  
OPERATED AND MAINTAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY  
RESULT. FOR SAFETY, FOLLOW ALL INSTALLA-  
TION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE DIREC-  
TIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS  
ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION  
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.  
Masonry Chimneys  
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be  
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove  
is installed. Your local professional chimney sweep,  
building inspector, or fire department official will be able  
either to make the inspection or to direct you to some-  
one who can.  
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has  
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chim-  
ney should also be examined for cracks, loose mortar,  
other signs of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any  
defects before the chimney is used with your stove.  
Before you begin the installation, review your plans to  
confirm that:  
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enough  
from combustible material to meet all clearance require-  
ments.  
Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must  
be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney  
wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Open-  
ings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard  
and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.  
In the event of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may  
be forced out of these unused thimbles.  
• The floor protector is large enough and is constructed  
properly to meet all requirements.  
• You have obtained all necessary permits from local  
authorities.  
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-  
proving your installation as safe and for determining  
that it meets local and state codes.  
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.  
Clearance and installation information is printed on the  
metal label attached to the rear of the stove. Local au-  
thorities generally will accept the label as evidence that,  
when the stove is installed according to the information  
on the label and in this manual, the installation meets  
codes and can be approved.  
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the  
standards of your local building code or, in the absence  
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry  
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved  
masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel  
pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The  
chimney’s clean-out door must seal tightly.  
Codes vary in different areas, however. Before starting  
the installation, review your plans with the local building  
authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional  
information needed.  
Prefabricated Double-Wall  
Insulated Chimney  
Important: Failure to follow these installation instruc-  
tions may result in a dangerous situation, including a  
chimney or house fire. Follow all instructions exactly,  
and do not allow makeshift compromises to endanger  
property and personal safety.  
Chimney Types  
Tile Lined  
Masonry  
Chimney  
Your Dutchwest Convection Heater must be connected  
to 1) a chimney complying with the requirements for  
Type HT chimneys in the standard for Chimneys, Fac-  
tory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating Appli-  
ance, UL 103, or 2) a code-approved masonry chimney  
with a flue liner.  
ST241  
Fig. 2 If in sound condition and approved for use, either a  
Whatever kind you use, the chimney and chimney con-  
nector must be in good condition and kept clean.  
masonry or a prefabricated chimney may be used.  
30002291  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Guidelines for Installing  
the Chimney Connector  
Prefabricated Chimneys  
A prefabricated metal chimney must be one tested and  
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.  
The chimney connector is the single-wall pipe, or listed  
and approved double-wall pipe that connects the stove  
to the chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or  
prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chimney  
connectors are used only to make the connection from  
the stove to the chimney.  
A horizontal connector run should be inclined 1/4” per  
foot (20 mm per meter) from the stove toward the  
chimney. The recommended maximum length of a hori-  
zontal run is 3 feet (1m) and the total length of chimney  
connector should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5m).  
Do not pass the chimney connector through a combus-  
tible wall, floor, or ceiling, through an attic or roof space,  
or through a closet or similar concealed space. If pas-  
sage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, follow  
the recommendations in the following section on Wall  
Pass-Throughs. Keep the passage as short and direct  
as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns.  
Chimney Height  
For proper draft and good performance, the chimney  
should extend at least 16’ (5 m) above the flue collar of  
the stove.  
The chimney must also extend at least 3’ (914 mm)  
above the highest point where it passes through a roof,  
and at least 2’ (610 mm) higher than any portion of a  
building within 10’ (3 m). (Fig. 2)  
Two Types of Connector  
You may use either a single-wall steel connector of the  
size and gauge described below, or a listed and ap-  
proved double-wall connector.  
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY  
FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.  
Single-Wall Connector  
The single-wall chimney connector should be made of  
24 gauge or heavier steel, and must have a minimum  
internal diameter of 6” (150 mm) for model 2479.  
0 To 10'  
2' Min.  
0 To 10'  
3'  
Install single-wall chimney connector not less than 18”  
(450 mm) from the ceiling.  
Min.  
2' Min.  
3'  
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-  
cated chimney downward to within 8 feet (2.5 meters)  
of the stove. The entire chimney connector should be  
exposed and accessible for inspection and cleaning.  
Min.  
Reference  
Point  
Do not use galvanized chimney connector; it cannot  
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached  
by smoke and exhaust gases and it may release toxic  
fumes under high heat.  
AC246  
Fig. 3 The 2/3/10 rule for chimneys.  
Chimney Size  
Chimney  
Flue Liner  
The Model 2479 heater should be vented into a ma-  
sonry chimney with a square flue with nominal flue size  
of 8” x 8” (203 x 203 mm), or a round flue with nominal  
flue size of 6” (152 mm).  
Flue  
Elbow  
Thimble  
Slip Pipe  
Chimney liners larger than 8” x 12” (203 x 305 mm)  
may promote rapid cooling of smoke and reduction in  
draft, especially if they are located outside the home.  
These large chimneys may need to be insulated or  
have their flues relined for proper stove performance.  
Standard Connector  
Flue Collar  
Accessories to help make the connection between  
stainless steel chimney liners and the stove are avail-  
able through your local dealer.  
Floor Protector  
ST418  
Fig. 4 Sections of a steel chimney connector of at least 24  
gauge thickness are fastened together with screws to  
connect the stove to the chimney.  
30002291  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
2. Secure each joint between sections of chimney con-  
nector, including telescoping joints, with at least three  
sheet metal screws.  
Double-Wall Connector  
Information on assembling and installing double-wall  
connectors is provided by the manufacturer of the  
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s installation  
instructions exactly. Most manufacturers of prefabri-  
cated double-wall insulated chimneys also offer double-  
wall connector pipes. Using a chimney and connector  
pipe from the same manufacturer helps simplify the  
assembly and installation.  
3. Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-  
structions for various installations follow below.  
4
.
Confirm that the installed stove and chimney con-  
nector are correct distances from nearby combustible  
material. See the clearance charts on pages 12 and 13.  
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form  
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-  
nector are available to simplify installations. They can  
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.  
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.  
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connec-  
tors, minimum clearances must conform to listed  
clearances in the Stove and Chimney Connector  
Clearance Charts on Page 12 and 13 of this manual.  
Securing the Connector to a  
Prefabricated Chimney  
Assembling Single-Wall  
Chimney Connector  
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney  
manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The  
manufacturer of the chimney will supply the acces-  
sories to support the chimney, either from the roof of  
the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove is  
installed, or from an exterior wall.  
SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and safety  
goggles when drilling, cutting or joining sections of  
chimney connector.  
For double-wall connectors, follow the manufacturer’s  
instructions exactly. For single-wall connectors, follow  
the instructions below.  
Special adaptors are available from your local dealer  
to make the connection between the prefabricated  
chimney and the chimney connector. (Fig. 6) The top  
of such adaptors attach directly to the chimney or to the  
chimney’s ceiling support package, while the bottom of  
the adaptor is screwed to the chimney connector.  
1. Insert the crimped end of the first section into the  
stove’s flue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing  
toward the stove (Fig.5). Using the holes in the flue col-  
lar as guides, drill 1/8” (3 mm) holes in the bottom of the  
first section of chimney connector and secure it to the  
flue collar with three #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws.  
These adaptors are designed so the top end will fit  
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom  
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.  
Any soot or creosote falling from the inner walls of the  
chimney will stay inside the chimney connector.  
Toward  
Stove  
Prefab (Insulated)  
Chimney  
Flue Gas  
Direction  
Ceiling Support  
Package  
Prefab Chimney  
Adapter  
ST242  
Chimney Connector  
(Stovepipe)  
Fig. 5 Crimped sections always point toward the stove so  
that any liquid condensation will not leak out.  
ST419  
Fig. 6 Joining the chimney connector to a prefabricated  
chimney.  
30002291  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Securing the Connector  
to a Masonry Chimney  
Thimble  
Sleeve  
Flue  
The Dutchwest Convection heater may be connected  
to either a freestanding masonry chimney or a masonry  
fireplace chimney.  
Elbow  
Thimble  
Keep  
Sleeve  
End Flush  
with Flue  
Tile  
Freestanding Installations  
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-  
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-  
tions in the wall pass-through section that follows.  
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue  
(the “breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or  
metal cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely  
cemented in place. (Fig. 7) Most chimney breeches  
incorporate thimbles, but check to be sure the fit is snug  
and the joint between thimble and chimney wall firmly  
cemented.  
Chimney  
Connector  
ST243  
Flue Liner  
Fig. 7 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be  
cemented in place securely.  
Masonry Wall  
Ceramic Flue Liner  
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly  
smaller in diameter than the standard connector and  
most thimbles, will ease the removal of the chimney  
connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble  
sleeves should be available from your local dealer.  
Chimney Connec-  
tor Shield  
Block-Off Plate  
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until  
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Don’t extend it into  
the actual flue passage, as that could interfere with the  
draft.  
Chimney Connector  
The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2” (25-50 mm)  
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing  
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the  
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with  
sheet metal screws.  
ST796as  
Fireplace Installations -  
Above the Fireplace  
Fig. 8 The connector enters flue above the fireplace. If the  
clearance between the chimney connector and either the  
mantel and/or the ceiling is inadequate, special protective  
shields will be required.  
In this installation, the chimney connector rises from  
the stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into the  
fireplace chimney. The liner of the fireplace chimney  
should extend at least to the point at which the chimney  
connector enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines  
for installing a chimney connector into a freestanding  
masonry chimney, and pay special attention to these  
additional points:  
Flue Liner  
Extend Chimney  
Connector to the  
Damper  
First Tile of the Flue  
Plate is  
Liner  
Removed  
or Locked  
in Open  
Observe  
Miniumum Clearances  
Position  
• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances  
to combustible mantel or trim materials. Use the  
necessary combination of mantel, trim, and connec-  
tor heat shields to provide the required clearances.  
(Fig. 8)  
Close Off  
the Damper  
Opening with  
Sheet Metal  
and Sealant  
• Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.  
• The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed  
to prevent room air from being drawn up the flue,  
reducing the draft. However, it must be possible to  
re-open the damper to inspect or clean the chimney.  
ST797  
Fig. 9 The connector passes through the fireplace to enter  
flue. Special Fireplace Adapter Kits to simplify fireplace instal-  
lations are available from your local dealer.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Fireplace Installations -  
Through the Fireplace  
12”  
(305mm)  
Chimney Con-  
nector  
The Convection heater may be installed either without  
legs* as a fireplace insert, or with standard legs at-  
tached - depending on the safety regulations that apply  
to your situation, the height of the fireplace opening and  
your own preference. For either situation, the chimney  
connector/positive connection kit extends back from the  
stove, enters the fireplace cavity, and turns upward. It  
then passes through the fireplace damper opening and  
smoke chamber and connects to the chimney flue.  
12”  
(305mm)  
In such installations, a “positive connection” must be  
made to the chimney flue with a special kit available  
from your local dealer. Also, special clearance and floor  
protection provisions must be observed. These provi-  
sions are discussed in the Clearance and Floor Protec-  
tion sections respectively.  
ST420  
Fig. 10 Wall pass-through enclosed with noncombustible  
materials.  
Wall Pass-Throughs  
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-  
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you  
must use a wall pass-through in your installation, check  
with your building inspector before you begin and con-  
struct it in accordance with local building codes. Also  
check with the chimney connector manufacturer for any  
specific requirements.  
18” (450mm)  
Empty Space  
All Around the  
Chimney Con-  
Sheet Metal  
nector  
Cover  
(One side  
only)  
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-  
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been  
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.  
All combustible material in the wall is cut away a suffi-  
cient distance from the single-wall connector to provide  
the required 12” (305 mm) clearance for the connector.  
Any material used to close up the opening must be non-  
combustible.  
ST421  
Fig. 11 Hollow wall pass-through.  
The following wall pass-through methods may be ap-  
proved in your area:  
DO NOT CONNECT THE HEATER TO ANY AIR  
DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM  
• Use a section of listed factory-built chimney with a  
nine-inch clearance to combustibles.  
In Canada: The Canadian Standards Association has  
established different guidelines. Figure 11 shows one  
method, in which all combustible material in the wall is  
cut away to provide the required 18” (450 mm) clear-  
ance for the connector. The resulting space must  
remain empty.  
• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a ventilated  
thimble, which is then separated from combustibles  
by 6” (152 mm) of fiberglass insulating material.  
• If the stove is installed without legs, we recommend  
the use of noncombustible tiles or pavers as shims to  
allow air flow into the convection air inlets under the  
stove. Make sure not to block air slots instove bottom  
with shims or remove fan cover.  
• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a section of  
listed solid-insulated, factory-built chimney, with an  
inside diameter 2” (51 mm) larger than the chimney  
connector and having 1” (25 mm) or more of insula-  
tion and maintaining a minimum 2 inch air space  
between the outer wall of the chimney and combus-  
tibles.  
30002291  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
A flush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on one  
side only. If covers must be used on both sides, each  
cover must be mounted on non-combustible spacers  
at least 1” (25 mm) clear of the wall. Your Dutchwest  
dealer or your local building inspector can provide de-  
tails of other approved methods of passing a chimney  
connector through a combustible wall. In Canada, this  
type of installation must conform to CAN/CSA-B365,  
Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and  
Equipment.  
C
B
B
A
B
B
A
A
A
NOTE: Do not vent your Dutchwest stove into a factory-  
built (zero-clearance) fireplace. These appliances and  
their chimneys are specifically designed as a unit for  
use as fireplaces. It may void the listing or be hazard-  
ous to adapt them for any other use.  
U.S.  
16”  
6”  
Canada  
A.  
B.  
C.  
18” (457 mm)  
8” (203 mm)  
10” (254 mm)  
10”  
ST798  
Floor Protection  
Minimum Dimensions for Noncombustible Floor  
Protectors (Width x Depth):  
A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom  
plate of your Dutchwest stove. The floor area directly  
under and around the stove will require protection from  
radiant heat as well as from stray sparks or embers that  
may escape the firebox.  
(1”/25mm thick minimum with an R-value of at least 1.19)  
Model  
U.S.  
Canada  
2479 51³⁄₄” x 46¹⁄₂” 55³⁄₄” x 50¹⁄₂” (1416 mm x 1238 mm)  
Fig. 12 Be sure to follow exactly the minimum floor protection  
requirements on all four sides of the stove.  
Heat protection is provided by the CFM Corporation  
Bottom Heat Shield. Spark, ember and thermal protec-  
tion must be provided by a floor protector constructed  
with noncombustible material as specified.  
In the US and Canada most installations will require  
that the bottom heat shield must be attached. Only  
when the stove is placed on a completely noncombusti-  
ble surface such as unpainted concrete over earth may  
it be used without the heat shield.  
Even when the bottom heat shield is installed, you  
must provide special protection to the floor beneath.  
For installation with the heat shield attached, use an  
approved 1” (25mm) noncombustible hearth pad with K  
= 0.84 BTU/in ft2 hr °F or an equivalent material with an  
R-value of at least 1.19. (Refer to “How to Determine  
if Alternate Floor Protection Materials are Acceptable”  
section) The floor protector may be covered with a  
decorative noncombustible material if desired. Do not  
obstruct the space under the heater.  
A
ST799  
Fig. 13 Combustible supporting timbers (A) may lie beneath  
fireplace hearths; such situations require additional floor  
protection.  
Due to the side loading door, floor protector require-  
ments call for more protection on the left side than on  
the right. If you wish a more balanced look, increase  
the other side of the hearth as well. Do not reduce side  
protection under any circumstances.  
Protection requirements vary somewhat between the  
United States and Canada as follows:  
U.S. Installations: The floor protector is required under  
the stove and must extend at least 16” from the front  
and left (loading door) side of the stove, and at least 6”  
from the right side and rear. (Fig. 12)  
How to Determine if Alternate Floor Protection Ma-  
terials are Acceptable  
All floor protection must be noncombustible (i.e. metals,  
brick, stone, mineral fiber boards, etc.). Any organic  
materials (i.e. plastics, wood paper products, etc.) are  
combustible and must not be used. The floor protection  
specified includes some form of thermal designation  
such as R-value (thermal resistance) or k-factor (ther-  
mal conductivity).  
In Canada: a noncombustible floor protector is required  
under the heater also. The floor protector must extend  
18” (457mm) from the front and left (loading door) side  
of the stove, and at least 8” (203mm) from the right side  
and rear. (Fig. 12)  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Procedure:  
Many fireplaces do not satisfy the “completely non-  
combustible” requirement because the brick or con-  
crete hearth in front of the fireplace opening usually is  
supported by heavy wooden framing as in Figure 13.  
Because heat passes readily through brick or concrete,  
it can easily pass through to the wood. As a result, such  
fireplace hearths are considered a combustible floor.  
You may not install a heater on a combustible hearth  
without legs. Standard leg installations must include the  
bottom heat shield. The floor protector must also meet  
standard requirements for freestanding installations.  
1. Convert specifications to R-value:  
i. R-value given - no conversion needed.  
ii. k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in  
1
k
inches:  
R = x T  
iii. K-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in  
1
inches:  
R =  
x T  
K x 12  
iv. r-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in  
inches: R = r x T  
2. Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate  
floor protector:  
Floor Protection for Fireplace  
Installations with Standard Legs  
i. Use the formula in Step 1 to convert values not  
expressed as R.  
Fireplace installations with the standard legs and the  
bottom heat shield must have a floor protector of the  
same construction as that specified for freestanding in-  
stallations: use an approved 1” (25mm) noncombustible  
hearth pad with K = 0.84 BTU/in ft2 hr °F or an equiva-  
lent material with an R-value of at least 1.19 (that may  
be covered with a decorative noncombustible material  
if you desire). (Refer to “How to Determine if Alternate  
Floor Protection Materials are Acceptable: section) The  
floor protector must extend at least 16” (406 mm) [18” /  
457 mm in Canada] from the front of the stove and from  
the left (loading door) side, and at least 6” (152 mm)  
[8” (203 mm) in Canada] from the right side and rear.  
It must also provide protection beneath any horizontal  
runs of the chimney connector, including 2” to either  
side.  
ii. For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to  
determine overall R-value.  
3. If the overall R-value of the system is greater than  
the R-value of the specified floor protector, the alter-  
nate is acceptable.  
EXAMPLE: The specified floor protector should be 3/4-  
inch thick material with k-factor of 0.84. The proposed  
alternate is 4” brick with an r-factor of 0.2 over 1/8”  
mineral board with a k-factor of 0.29  
Step a: Use formula above to convert specification to  
1
k
1
0.84  
R-value:  
R = x T =  
x 1.00 = 1.19  
Step b: Calculate R of proposed system.  
4” brick of r = 0.2, therefore:  
R
brick = 0.2 x 4 = 0.8  
Many raised hearths will extend less than the required  
distance from the front of the heater when it is installed.  
In such cases, sufficient floor protection, as described  
above, must be added to extend the hearth 16” (406  
mm) [18” (457 mm) in Canada].  
1/8” mineral board of k = 0.29, therefore  
1
Rmineralboard  
=
x 0.125 = 0.431  
0.29  
R
total = Rbrick + Rmineralboard = 0.8 + 0.431 = 1.231  
Step c: Compare proposed system Rtotal of 1.231 to  
specified R of 1.19. Since proposed system Rtotal is  
greater than required, the system is acceptable.  
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor  
protection.  
Fireplace insert installations also have specific clear-  
ance requirements to the side walls, side decorative  
trim, and fireplace mantel. This information is found in  
“Fireplace Installation Clearances” in this section.  
Definitions  
(ft2)(hr)(°F)  
(Btu)(in)  
k =  
= K x 12  
R =  
(ft2)(hr)(°F)  
(ft2)(hr)(°F)  
Btu  
1
k
(Btu)(ft)  
r =  
K =  
=
REMINDER- FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATIONS  
WITHOUT LEGS ARE PERMISSIBLE ONLY IF THE  
HEARTH IS COMPLETELY NONCOMBUSTIBLE,  
SUCH AS UNPAINTED CONCRETE OVER EARTH.  
(ft2)(hr)(°F)  
(Btu)(in)  
Fireplace Installations  
The Dutchwest Model 2479 has a reversible flue collar  
to allow for either top exit or rear exit installations.  
You may install your Dutchwest Model 2479 in an exist-  
ing fireplace as a fireplace insert with no legs, or with  
the standard legs attached.  
To install the heater without legs as a fireplace insert,  
the floor must be completely noncombustible, such as  
an unpainted concrete floor over earth.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Clearances  
Keep the Stove a Safe Distance  
From Surrounding Materials  
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in  
all directions when operating. A safe installation re-  
quires that adequate clearance be maintained between  
the stove and nearby combustible materials to ensure  
that such materials do not overheat.  
Clearance is the distance between either your stove or  
chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the ceiling,  
and any other fixed combustible surface. Keep furnish-  
ings and other combustible materials away from the  
stove as well. In general, a distance of 48” (1220 mm)  
must be maintained between the stove and moveable  
combustible items such as drying clothes, furniture,  
newspapers, firewood, etc. Keeping those clearance  
areas empty assures that nearby surfaces and objects  
will not overheat.  
ST8
Fig. 14 Extra floor protection may be required for the fire-  
place hearth, even if your stove is installed with the legs and  
the bottom heat shield.  
Fireplace Installation Clearances  
Safe Ways to Reduce Clearances  
A fireplace installation requires special clearance be-  
tween the:  
Your stove has specific clearance requirements that  
have been established through careful research and  
testing to UL and ULC standards.  
• Side of the stove and the right and left walls  
• Side of the stove and the decorative side trim on  
the fireplace face  
Clearance requirements have been established to meet  
every installation possibility, and they involve the combi-  
nation of basic variables:  
• Top of the stove and the mantel  
In addition, both Fireplace Adaptor and Fireplace Insert  
installations have special floor protection requirements  
that are addressed in the section on Floor Protection.  
• When the stove has no listed heat shield  
• When the stove has a listed heat shield  
• When the wall has no heat shield  
• When the wall has a heat shield  
• When the stove has a double-wall chimney con-  
nector  
M
• When the stove has a single-wall connector  
with heat shields, or without heat shields  
TT  
In general, the greatest clearance is required when you  
locate a stove with no heat shield near a wall with no  
heat shield. The least clearance is required when both  
the stove and the wall have heat shields. Reducing a  
stove clearance may require a listed heat shield on the  
chimney connector as well, or a double-wall connector.  
T
S
Clearances may be reduced only by means approved  
by the regulatory authority and in accordance with the  
clearances listed in this manual. The charts and sample  
installations that follow list all the clearances required  
for the various installation configurations of Dutchwest  
Convection Heaters.  
ST800  
Side Walls (S)................ 20¹⁄₂” (521 mm)  
Trim (T).......................... 8” (203 mm)  
Top Trim (TT)................. 13” (330 mm)  
Mantel (M) ..................... 27” (686 mm)  
Fig. 15 Minimum clearances for fireplace installation. Recom-  
mended clearances must be maintained between stove and  
the surrounding combustible components.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Designing a Safe Installation  
Clearance Chart Reference Diagrams  
Refer to the diagrams below when using the Stove and  
Chimney Connector Clearance Chart that follows. For  
example, the letter “A” gives the minimum side clear-  
ance for installations in which the stove is not equipped  
with any heat shield and the wall beside the stove is not  
protected. “D” gives the minimum side clearance when  
the stove does not have any heat shield, but the wall is  
protected.  
The section that follows contains charts with the infor-  
mation that you’ll need to make your installation safe.  
Included are a chart to tell you exactly where to cut the  
hole in the ceiling so that the stove will meet clearance  
requirements, a chart that gives stove clearances for  
all installations, and a chart to illustrate the required  
sizes of wall shields for various installations.  
Refer to these charts as you plan the installation and do  
not compromise on any of the dimensions listed.  
Measure clearance distances from the top plate of the  
stove or chimney connector to the wall, not the wall  
protector.  
Unprotected Surfaces  
Protected Surfaces  
Parallel Installations  
Corner Installations  
Parallel Installations  
Corner Installations  
C
F
B
E
A
D
C
F
Installations with no stove heat shields  
H
J
I
N / A  
N / A  
G
Rear exit, flue collar heat shield installations  
M
P
O
N
L
K
M
P
ST255a  
Top exit, flue collar heat shield, right side heat shield and chimney connector heat shields or double wall  
connector  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Stove and Chimney Connector Clearance Charts  
Model 2479 Large Convection Heater  
UNPROTECTED SURFACES  
Corner  
Installations Parallel Installations  
PROTECTED SURFACES  
Corner  
Installations  
Parallel Installations  
Stove Clearance  
No heat shields  
Side  
(A) 21”  
(533 mm)  
Rear3  
(B) 26”  
(660 mm)  
(H) 13”  
Corner  
(C) 21¹⁄₂”  
(546 mm)  
N/A  
Side  
(D) 8”  
(203 mm)  
Rear3  
(E) 20”  
(508 mm)  
N/A  
Corner  
(F) 16¹⁄₂”  
(419 mm)  
N/A  
Rear exit,  
(G) 23”  
N/A  
flue collar heat shields  
Top exit1,2, flue collar  
Single-wall connector  
w/connector heat shield  
and right side heat shield  
Top exit1 , flue collar  
heat shield,  
(584 mm)  
(K) 15”  
(381 mm)  
Right Side  
Only  
(330 mm)  
(L) 15”  
(381 mm)  
(M) 12¹⁄₂”  
(318 mm)  
(N) 8”  
(203 mm)  
Right Side  
Only  
(N) 8”  
(203 mm)  
(O) 12”  
(305 mm)  
(P) 10”  
(254 mm)  
(K) 20”  
(508 mm)  
(L) 16”  
(406 mm)  
(M) 12¹⁄₂”  
(318 mm)  
(O) 14¹⁄₂”  
(368 mm)  
(P) 12”  
(305 mm)  
Double wall connector  
Chimney Connector Clearance: To Rear Wall Combustible Surface  
Single-wall connector  
20”  
14”  
No connector heat shield  
Single-wall2 connector  
w/connector heat shield  
& flue collar heat shield  
Double-wall connector  
(508 mm)  
(356 mm)  
9”  
(229 mm)  
10”  
6”  
(152 mm)  
8¹⁄₂”  
& flue collar heat shield  
Front Clearance to Combustibles:  
(254 mm)  
(All Installations)  
(216 mm)  
48” (1219 mm)  
1. Shielding for a top exit stove must include a flue collar shield to protect the area behind the flue collar.  
2. Chimney connector heat shields must extend exactly 24” (610 mm) above the flue collar of the stove.  
3. Dimension is to the top plate of the stove, not the back wall of the stove.  
Important:  
When choosing an installation utilizing the side loading door located on the left side of the stove, follow the  
minimum dimensions given in the Stove and Chimney Connector Chart on Page 4 and the Minimum Dimen-  
sions for Noncombustible Floor Protectors given on Page 9, Figure 12.  
For operation of the side loading door, the minimum clearances on the left side of the stove for usable opera-  
tion is 14¹⁄₂” (368 mm) in a corner installation and 20” (508 mm) in a parallel installation.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Distance from Center of Flue Collar to Wall in Top-Exit Installations  
Dutchwest Convection Heater Model 2479  
NOTE: These are not clearance distances. These measurements indicate where the centerline of the flue col-  
lar will be for various installations. Measurements are from the centerline of the flue collar to the wall, not the  
wall protector.  
A
D
B
E
C
F
C
F
ST427  
UNPROTECTED SURFACES  
Corner  
Installations Parallel Installations  
PROTECTED SURFACES  
Corner  
Installations  
Parallel Installations  
Chimney Connector  
Listed, Approved  
Double-wall, with  
flue collar shield  
Side  
(A) 34¹⁄₂”  
(846 mm)  
Rear  
(B) 12¹⁄₂”  
(318 mm)  
Corner  
(C) 21”  
(533 mm)  
Side  
(D) 22¹⁄₂”  
(572 mm)  
Rear  
(E) 12”  
(305 mm)  
Corner  
(F) 20¹₂”  
(521 mm)  
Single wall, with  
(A) 29¹⁄₂”  
(B) 12¹⁄₂”  
(C) 21”  
(D) 22¹⁄₂”  
(E) 9¹⁄₂”  
(F) 18¹⁄₂”  
Connector heat shields  
and flue collar shield  
Single wall with no  
heat shields  
(749 mm)  
(318 mm)  
(533 mm)  
(572 mm)  
(241 mm)  
(570 mm)  
(A) 35¹⁄₂”  
(902 mm)  
(B) 23¹⁄₂”  
(967 mm)  
(C) 30”  
(762 mm)  
(D) 22¹⁄₂”  
(572 mm)  
(E) 17¹⁄₂”  
(445 mm)  
(F) 25”  
(635 mm)  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Wall Heat Shield Dimensions  
DutchWest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater Model #2479  
48”  
(1219 mm)  
48”  
(1219 mm)  
Rear Exit  
48” (1219 mm)  
48” (1219 mm)  
Centered Behind Stove  
Spaced 1”  
(25 mm)  
from Floor  
Spaced 1”  
(25 mm)  
from Floor  
ST802  
ST801  
Fig. 16 Rear wall protection.  
Fig. 17 Sidewall protection.  
Wall Shields  
Meet at  
Corner  
48”  
(1219 mm)  
48”  
(1219 mm)  
Spaced 1”  
(25 mm)  
from Floor  
ST803  
Fig. 18 Corner wall protection.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Assembly  
Your convection heater requires some assembly.  
Bottom Heat Shield  
Follow the directions carefully and refer to the parts  
diagram at the back of this manual.  
Unpack the Parts  
Remove the bottom heat shield strapped to the top of  
the stove and all loose parts from the firebox and the  
ash pan. Check to make sure all the parts are included  
and intact. You should have received:  
• 1 fully assembled heater body  
• 1 bottom heat shield*  
• 4 legs  
• 1 ash pan  
• 1 ceramic handle assembly  
• 1 hardware bag, containing the following parts:  
• (3) #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws, (to attach the  
chimney connector to the flue collar)  
• (1) 1/8” Allen wrench, (to tighten the door latch)  
• (1) 5/32” Allen wrench, (to tighten the damper  
handle)  
ST813  
Fig. 19 Remove bands holding stove to pallet and remove  
heat shield from to of stove.  
• (4) washers, (used with the leg bolts to attach  
legs to the stove)  
• (1) door handle insert holder (for storing the ce-  
ramic handle assembly when it is not in use.)  
• (4) 1/4-20 x 1” hex head screws, (to attach legs)  
If any parts are missing or damaged, immediately notify  
your Dutchwest dealer for replacements. Do not install  
your stove without having all necessary parts or using  
damaged parts.  
Leg  
Bolt  
* A Bottom Heat Shield is required in many instal-  
lations. Refer to the floor protection information  
found in the Installation Section of this manual.  
Attach the Legs and Heat Shield  
NOTE: To avoid damaging the sheet metal compo-  
nents, do not place the stove on its back to install the  
legs. Follow the instructions below.  
Handle Insert  
Holder  
ST814  
1. Remove the band that holds the stove to the pallet  
and remove the bottom heat shield that was posi-  
tioned on top of the stove. (Fig. 19)  
2. Rotate the stove counterclockwise until the front left  
corner overhangs the pallet and the leg-mounting  
hole is accessible. (Fig. 20)  
3. Remove and discard the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head  
bolts that are in the leg holes on the bottom of the  
stove.  
Fig. 20 Rotate stove on pallet to expose front left corner.  
4. In the hardware bag, locate the four legs, the door  
handle insert holder, (on this leg only, the door  
handle insert holder is used along with a washer),  
(4) 1/4-20 x 1” leg bolts and four (4) washers.  
5. Place the bolt through a washer and then the door  
handle insert holder and align the leg with the bolt  
hole in the bottom of the stove. Tighten securely.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
6. Reposition the stove so the other front corner over-  
hangs the pallet and remove the leg bolt from the  
bottom of the stove. Align the leg with the bolt hole  
in the bottom of the stove, and attach it with the bolt  
and washer. Tighten securely.  
7. Reposition the stove so the first rear leg can be at-  
tached. Attach the leg using the procedure described  
in Step 6. (Fig. 21)  
Fan Kit Installation  
1. Secure the fan assembly to the inner back with two  
(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex head screws and one (1) 1/4”  
star washer as shown in Figure 22.  
2. Attach snapstat to the mounting holes on the un-  
derside of the bottom with two (2) 1/4-20 pan head  
screws.  
3. Attach the rheostat to the door handle insert holder  
near the front left leg. Insert the rheostat control  
shaft through the handle holder hole. Install the  
retaining ring and rheostat knob onto the shaft.  
8. Reposition the stove so the remaining leg can be  
attached. Attach it using the procedure described in  
Step 6. Remove the pallet from beneath the stove.  
9. Remove the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head bolts from  
the mounting bosses and attach the bottom heat  
shield using the same bolts.  
4. Place cables where they won’t be harmed by traffic.  
5. Fan will not operate until stove reaches approxi-  
mately 109°F.  
Carefully move the stove to its final position. One way  
to lessen the effort of moving the stove over smooth  
flooring is to slide it on a piece of inverted carpet. Move  
it slowly to ensure the floor is not scratched.  
Retighten all leg fastening hardware.  
Rheostat  
Knob  
Pan  
Snapstat  
Head  
Screws  
Rheostat  
ST813  
Fig. 22 Fan installation.  
ST816  
Fig. 21 Reposition stove so one rear leg can be attached.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Operation  
Heater Controls and Features  
Air Control  
The Dutchwest Convection Heater Model 2479 has a  
control that regulates the amount of air drawn into the  
stove. Generally, more air entering the stove allows the  
fire to burn hotter and faster, while less air decreases  
heat output and prolongs the overall burn time.  
The Air Control Lever is located at the lower front  
edge of the left side (looking from the front of the  
stove). (Fig. 23) The lever operates two internal shut-  
ters. Opening the inlet shutters provides air for primary  
combustion.  
Primary Air  
Control Lever  
ST811  
Fig. 24 Turn primary air control lever clockwise to open.  
Damper  
Side Loading  
Door  
Primary  
Air Control  
Lever  
ST812  
Front Loading Door  
ST810  
Fig. 25 Turn primary air control lever counterclockwise to  
close.  
Fig. 23 The heater controls.  
To open the shutters, turn the lever clockwise. The  
shutters are all the way open when the lever points to-  
ward the rear at a “9:00” position. (Fig. 24) To close the  
shutters, turn the lever counterclockwise. The shutters  
are fully closed when the lever points straight down.  
(Fig. 25)  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Damper Function  
Successful Wood Burning  
The Damper is operated by moving the handle on  
the upper left side of the stove. (Fig. 26) It has two  
positions: OPEN, to start the fire and load fuel, and  
CLOSED, for greatest efficiency and heat. When the  
damper is closed, exhaust gases travel through a  
secondary combustion chamber at the rear of the stove  
before flowing into the chimney.  
Woodburning is often said to be more of an art than a  
science. You’ll easily master the art if you start by using  
good, dry fuel and by understanding how the stove’s air  
supply system operates.  
Burn Only High-Quality Fuel  
Your heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Do  
not burn other fuels. Never burn pressure-treated wood,  
painted or stained wood, or glossy newsprint.  
Use the door insert handle to rotate the damper handle.  
Turn it counterclockwise to open the damper and clock-  
wise to close it. You will feel resistance as the damper  
mechanism engages into the open (counterclockwise)  
position.  
High efficiencies and low emissions are only possible  
when burning air-dried, seasoned woods. Avoid burning  
“green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.  
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,  
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and  
air-dried outside under cover for at least one year. If  
hardwood is not available, tamarack, yellow pine, white  
pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood are softwoods  
that are commonly burned. They too should be prop-  
erly dried. The length of the wood should be the same  
as that specified for your particular stove. Avoid using  
wood that has been dried more than two years. Often  
gray in color, this wood burns very quickly, resulting in  
short burn time and dimin-  
The stove damper must be open when you start a  
fire, load fuel, or before you open either door for  
any reason.  
Load Doors  
A Side Loading Door allows the easiest loading of  
wood logs. The Front Door opens for adding an occa-  
sional log to the fire. Always be sure to open the stove  
damper before opening either door.  
ished stove performance.  
If you must burn it, mix it in  
with greener wood to slow  
the burn.  
Open  
Closed  
Door Insert Handle  
Store your firewood under  
cover to keep it dry. Even  
for short-term storage, keep  
wood outside of the heater’s  
installation clearances and  
outside of the space around  
the heater required for refu-  
eling and ash removal.  
ST804  
Fig. 26 Damper operating positions.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Use the Air Control Settings  
that Work Best for You  
High  
No single control setting will fit every situation. Each  
installation will differ depending on the quality of the  
fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish  
the fire to burn.  
Medium  
Control settings also depend on your particular instal-  
lation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the  
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such  
things as the height, type, and location of the chimney,  
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.  
Low  
Closed  
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in  
the stove. On the other hand, too little draft can cause  
backpuffing into the room and/or insufficient heat.  
ST817  
Fig. 27 Position the primary air control lever for different burn  
rates.  
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or  
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncon-  
trollable burn or a part of the stove or chimney con-  
nector glowing-red. Inadequate draft may is indicated  
by smoke leaking into the room through the stove or  
chimney connector joints.  
DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH  
DOOR OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOR  
OPEN CAN CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITION  
TO OCCUR. OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGER-  
OUS AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE,  
INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.  
When first using the stove, keep a record of the results  
you achieve from different control settings. You will  
find that specific settings will give you a fixed amount  
of heat. It may take a week or two to determine the  
amount of heat and the length of burn you should ex-  
pect from various control settings.  
How to Build and Maintain a Wood Fire  
Loading Wood  
You can load wood into your Dutchwest Convection  
Heater through either the front or side doors. Front  
loading is useful for kindling a new fire and adding an  
occasional log; however, we recommend side-loading  
as most convenient when adding several logs at a time.  
Always be certain that the stove damper is open before  
opening either door.  
Notice that changes in the weather have a strong effect  
on chimney draft. Higher outdoor temperatures and  
lower air pressure both weaken draft; lower tempera-  
tures and higher air pressure encourage a stronger  
draft. An exception to this is in installations with outdoor  
chimneys; since these lose heat to the outdoors, it  
takes longer to warm them up initially, and it takes more  
heat to keep them warm, especially when temperatures  
are very low outdoors.  
WARNING: OPERATE YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-  
VECTION HEATER ONLY WITH THE DOORS FULLY  
CLOSED EXCEPT WHEN REFUELING.  
THIS STOVE IS HOT WHILE IN OPERATION! KEEP  
CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY.  
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.  
Most installations do not require a large amount of  
combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.  
Do not attempt to increase the firing rate of your heater  
by altering the air control adjustment range outlined in  
these directions.  
Break-in Fires  
If your stove is new or has new cast iron replacement  
parts, “season” the new cast iron with a few break-in  
fires. Follow Steps 1-3 below. Then let the fire burn  
out. Do not close the damper. Maintain a small but not  
smoky fire by adjusting the air control. After the break-  
in fires, continue with Step 4.  
In some newer homes that are well insulated and  
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient  
air in the house. In such instances, an open window  
near the stove on the windward side of the house (side  
against which the wind is blowing) will provide the fresh  
air needed. Another solution is to equip the stove with  
an Outside Air Kit, available from your local dealer.  
The stove’s paint and cement will emit a slight odor  
as these materials cure during the first few fires. You  
may wish to provide extra ventilation near the stove by  
partially opening a door or window until the odor disap-  
pears  
Use the air control settings indicated in Figure 27 as  
a starting point to help determine the best settings for  
your installation.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
You’ll soon find that this stove is HOT WHILE IN OPER-  
ATION! KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNI-  
TURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.  
Lighting the Fire  
Step 1. Open the stove damper. Open the primary air  
control fully.  
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may  
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage  
to the stove. If a part of the stove or the chimney con-  
nector glows, you are overfiring.  
Step 2. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove.  
Place six or eight finger-width size pieces of dry kin-  
dling on the paper. On the kindling, lay two or three  
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2” (25-50  
mm) thick.  
Reloading and Reviving the Fire  
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START  
THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAM-  
MABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPTHA, OR  
ENGINE OIL.  
Reload your stove while it is still hot and there are  
plenty of embers to re-kindle the fire quickly. Include  
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to  
help the stove regain high temperatures quickly.  
Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,  
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or  
“freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids  
well away from the heater while it is in use.  
Follow this procedure when you reload the stove:  
• Open the damper and move the primary air lever to  
the “HIGH” position.  
• Open the front door and check the ash level on the  
grates and in the ash pan. Clear excess ash from  
the grates, particularly at the rear area. Level the  
ember bed. Empty the ash pan if necessary.  
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The  
fire soon will be well-established and you may gradually  
build it up by adding a few sticks at a time of a progres-  
sively larger size. For your initial three or four break-in  
fires, let the fire burn brightly for a short time, then let it  
die out.  
NOTE: An especially large, outdoor, or cold chimney  
may need to be “primed,” or warmed up, before it will  
draw sufficiently to start a fire. If this is the case, roll up  
a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the  
kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,  
and close the doors. This should heat the chimney  
enough to initiate a draft.  
• Replace the ash pan and close the front door.  
• Load wood, smaller pieces first, and close the load-  
ing door.  
• Allow the stove to regain its “thermal momentum”  
before closing the damper. This may take 15-20  
minutes.  
• Close the damper and set the air control lever for the  
desired heat output.  
NOTE: If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your  
fuel is well-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel  
(smaller pieces first), close the door and damper, and  
reset the air control within five minutes.  
Once the draft is established, open the front door and  
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light  
the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins draw-  
ing. Repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the  
initial attempt is unsuccessful.  
Step 4. Once the fire is burning steadily, continue  
adding fuel until a thick bed has been established on  
the grate. The bed should be about 2” (50mm) deep  
and should cover the throat opening into the secondary  
combustion chamber that is located in the lower center  
fireback.  
Step 5. Once the ember bed is formed, prepare the  
stove for high-efficiency operation. Load it with fuel, first  
with smaller splits of wood and then larger ones.  
Close the damper and set the air control lever to the  
“HIGH” position. Operate the stove for 15-20 minutes at  
this maximum air setting to guarantee the new load of  
fuel has fully ignited. Once the fuel is burning steadily,  
you may adjust the air supply to provide the desired  
heat output. Refer back to the air control settings chart  
on Page 20.  
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Safe Ash Handling  
Remove Ashes Frequently  
Ashes may contain hot coals and must be treated with  
extreme care. Ashes should be placed outdoors in a  
metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed con-  
tainer of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible  
floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible  
materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are dis-  
posed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed,  
keep them in the closed container until all cinders have  
thoroughly cooled. Note: It may take days for these  
coals to stop burning. Wood ash may be used as a  
garden fertilizer.  
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing ashes. Check  
the ash compartment before reloading the stove. If the  
ash pan is nearly full, empty the pan. Before replacing  
the ash pan, clear away any ash that may have spilled  
over the sides and back of the pan.  
Empty the ash drawer regularly - typically every one  
to three days. The frequency will vary depending on  
what kind of wood you use and how hot you run your  
stove—the hotter the fire, the more wood you burn, and  
the faster ash will accumulate.  
CAUTION: Never use a vacuum cleaner to remove  
ash from the stove; always remove and dispose of the  
ashes properly.  
ST805  
Fig. 28 Check the ash compartment before reloading the  
stove.  
ST438  
Fig. 29 Hot ashes can be dangerous and must be stored  
outdoors on a noncombustible surface in a metal container  
with a tight-fitting lid.  
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Maintenance  
Keep Your Stove Looking New  
And Working Its Best  
Small Locking  
Large Locking Nut  
Nut  
Pawl  
Care of the Cast Iron Surface  
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the  
painted cast iron of your Dutchwest Convection Heater  
looking new.  
Striker  
Screw  
If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to cool  
completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted.  
Remove non-painted components such as air controls  
or cover them with masking tape. Touch up the stove  
with high temperature stove paint available from your  
local dealer. Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats  
are better than one heavy one.  
Door  
ST806  
Cleaning the Glass  
Fig. 30 Door latch adjustment.  
You will find that most of the carbon deposits on the  
glass will burn off regularly during hot fires. You can  
wipe fly ash from the glass when hot using a crumpled  
piece of dry newspaper. Never use liquid cleaning  
agents on hot glass. If you wish to clean the glass  
more thoroughly, follow this procedure:  
Test and Repair the Door Gaskets  
Air leaks can be caused by low spots in the door gas-  
kets. To locate such low spots, close each door on a  
slip of paper and attempt to pull the paper free. If the  
paper slips out without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug  
enough at that spot.  
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.  
• Use a glass cleaner especially made for this pur-  
pose.  
If the seal cannot be improved by adjusting the door  
latch, try shimming the gasket. Pack a small quantity of  
cement or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel  
beneath the gasket to lift the main gasket and thereby  
improve its contact with the door frame.  
• Dry the glass completely.  
Adjust the Door Latch  
The door latches must close tightly to ensure a good  
seal between the each door and the stove plates. With  
time and use, the door latches will require periodic  
adjustment. Follow this procedure: (Fig. 30)  
If shimming does not improve the seal, replace the  
gasket following these steps:  
1. Remove the original gasket by grasping an end and  
pulling firmly.  
1. Loosen the small locking nut with an open end  
wrench.  
2. Wearing safety goggles, use a wire brush or the tip  
of a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remain-  
ing cement or bits of gasket.  
2. Use the allen wrench (included with the stove) to  
turn the striker screw clockwise one quarter-turn  
and close the door to test the engagement. The  
door latch should engage tightly when closed. Make  
further adjustments in small increments.  
Remove the old gasket by  
pulling gently, but firmly.  
3. When the striker screw is properly adjusted, tighten  
the small locking nut against the pawl without allow-  
ing the striker screw to turn.  
ST440  
Fig. 31 Door gasket.  
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3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newly-  
cleaned groove.  
4. Lay the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are a  
couple inches from the end before you cut it.  
5. Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper  
as described above. Adjust the gasket in any areas  
where an inadequate seal is evident.  
Adjusting Bolt  
(on underside)  
Front of  
Stove  
All rope-type gasketing used in the Dutchwest Convec-  
tion Heater is made of fiberglass. The gasket is 3/8”  
diameter for front and side doors and the ash door and  
3/8” for the top plate. 3/16” gasket is used behind the  
glass.  
Lock Nut  
Anchor Bolt  
Damper Rod  
Avoid Damaging the Glass Door Panel  
ST441  
Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking  
the glass with a log. Never operate your stove if it has  
damaged or broken glass. If you need to replace the  
glass, use only replacement glass provided by your lo-  
cal Dutchwest dealer.  
Fig. 32 Damper adjustment.  
Over time, the air control may tighten or loosen. To  
adjust the tension on the control, let the stove cool to  
room temperature. Open the side-loading door and look  
in toward the inner side of the front panel of the stove.  
(Fig. 33) Locate the lower hex head bolts (A) on the pri-  
mary air manifold rods on either side of the door. Adjust  
with a 7/16” wrench.  
Damper Adjustment  
With time, you may need to adjust the damper link-  
age to ensure that the damper plate seals tightly when  
closed. Test the damper when the stove is cold. When  
turned into the closed position, the damper should be  
feel “snug” but not too tight. It will become a little tighter  
as the stove heats up. Use a 7/16” socket wrench with  
socket extension to adjust the linkage:  
Note that the mechanism may tighten slightly as the  
stove heats up. Your adjustment should leave the air  
control snug, but not overly tight.  
1. From inside the stove, first loosen and then remove  
the two (2) nuts on the threaded rods that secure the  
top plate to the inner top of the stove.  
Air Manifold  
2. Remove the top plate and open the damper.  
3. Loosen the adjusting bolt’s lock nut. (Fig. 32)  
Adjustment  
Screw  
4. Loosen the anchor bolt’s lock nut, located on the  
underside of the damper.  
Air Control  
5. Loosen the anchor bolt a turn or two.  
6. Tighten the adjusting bolt.  
7. Test the damper. Make further adjustments if neces-  
sary.  
ST808  
Fig. 33 Primary air control adjustment.  
8. When final adjustment has been made, tighten the  
adjusting bolt lock nut, the anchor bolt, and the an-  
chor bolt lock nut.  
Primary Air Control Adjustment  
Simple spring-loaded tabs maintain tension on the  
primary air control lever. The air control should be loose  
enough for you to easily set its position by hand, but  
also snug enough to remain in that position until you  
change it.  
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cleaning brush, the same size and shape as the flue  
liner, attached to flexible fiberglass rods designed for  
this purpose. Run the brush up and down the liner  
so that any deposits fall to the bottom of the chimney  
where they can be removed through the clean-out door.  
Cleaning the Chimney System  
The chimney system is composed of the chimney and  
the pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. Inspect  
the chimney and chimney connector at least twice  
monthly, and clean if necessary.  
Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sec-  
tions, taking them outside, and removing any deposits  
with a stiff wire brush. You can use a chimney brush of  
correct size to clean chimney connector pipe. Reinstall  
the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to  
secure the individual sections with three sheet metal  
screws per section.  
When you first begin using the stove, check daily for  
creosote — a substance that can look like either thick  
tar or black, crisp flakes. Experience will show how  
often you need to clean to be safe. The frequency  
may even vary during the year. In the colder months  
when the hottest fires producing the least creosote are  
burned, you may need to clean only every couple of  
months. During the warmer months when creosote is  
more likely to result from cooler-burning fires, weekly  
cleaning may be necessary.  
If you are unable to inspect and/or clean the chimney  
system yourself, contact your local Dutchwest dealer or  
hire a qualified chimney sweep in your area to do the  
job.  
At the very least, inspect the chimney connector and  
chimney at least once every two months during the  
heating season to determine if a buildup of creosote  
or soot has occurred. If a significant layer of creosote  
has accumulated (1/8” [3 mm] or more), or if soot has  
accumulated, either should be removed to reduce the  
risk of a chimney fire. Failure to keep the chimney and  
connector system clean can result in a serious chimney  
fire.  
Maintenance Schedule  
The Stove  
DAILY:  
• Clear any ash build-up from around the air holes and  
combustion flow path in the lower fireback.  
• Ashes should be removed before they reach the top  
of the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once a  
day.  
The conditions for a chimney fire develop as follows:  
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other  
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture  
to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in  
the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire.  
As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue  
lining. Creosote is flammable and, when ignited, makes  
an extremely hot fire within the flue system which can  
damage the chimney and overheat adjacent combus-  
tible material.  
• Keep the area around the stove clear of any com-  
bustible materials such as wood, furniture or cloth-  
ing.  
TWO MONTHS:  
• Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.  
Gasketing becomes compressed after a period of  
time. Adjust handle tightness if necessary.  
• Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if  
necessary.  
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, re-  
member to provide adequate air for combustion and to  
strive for small, intense fires rather than large, smolder-  
ing ones.  
ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:  
• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.  
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with a  
moisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to  
keep the interior of the stove dry.  
You can never be too safe. Contact your local fire  
authority for information on what to do in the event of  
a chimney fire, and have a clearly understood plan on  
how to handle one.  
• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or  
pipe heat shields if your stove is equipped with them.  
Clean surfaces are better heat reflectors than dirty  
surfaces.  
Inspect Regularly, Clean As Required  
Inspect the chimney and chimney connector twice  
monthly and clean if necessary. Let the stove cool  
completely before you inspect the chimney. Use a flash-  
light and mirror to sight up the flue through the chimney  
clean-out door or chimney connector inspection tee. If  
no inspection access is available, disconnect the pipe  
from the stove.  
• Touch up the black paint.  
• Inspect for and remove ash build-up behind the com-  
bustion package. This should be done in conjunction  
with annual cleaning of the chimney connector since  
this inspection is most conveniently done through the  
flue collar opening. Inspect the passages to either  
side of the combustion package (a mirror will be  
helpful) and vacuum away ash using a flexible vacu-  
Clean the chimney using a specially designed chimney  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
um hose inserted into each passage. Care should be  
taken not to damage the white fibrous material in this  
rear chamber. (Fig. 34)  
The Chimney Connector  
TWO WEEKS:  
• Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if  
necessary.  
TWO MONTHS:  
• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay  
particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney  
connector, and the elbows. Clean the system if nec-  
essary.  
ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:  
• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it  
outdoors for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak  
sections of connector.  
• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration. Re-  
pairs to a masonry chimney should be made by a  
professional mason. Replace damaged sections of  
prefabricated chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer  
or a chimney sweep can help determine when re-  
placement is necessary.  
Inspect and  
Vacuum Both  
Rear Corners  
Ash Build-Up  
ST876  
Fig. 34 Inspect and clean out ash accumulation on either  
• Thoroughly clean the chimney.  
side of the non-catalytic combustion system.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Draft Management  
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes  
the chimney, the operator, the fuel, and the home. The  
other parts of the system will affect how well the stove  
works. When there is a good match between all the  
parts, the system works well.  
this makes the steel chimney support a good draft  
more quickly than masonry does. Steel chimneys are  
not as attractive as masonry, but they are very durable  
and generally outperform masonry.  
Indoor/ Outdoor Location  
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)  
draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter  
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of  
the chimney. The greater the temperature difference,  
the stronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas rises out  
of the chimney, it generates suction that draws air into  
the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy fire when the  
stove’s air inlets are fully open indicates a weak draft.  
A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the stove  
through the air inlets, indicates a good draft. The inlets  
are passive; they regulate how much air can enter the  
stove, but they don’t force air into it.  
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke  
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This  
location uses the house as insulation for the flue and  
allows some radiant heat release from the flue into the  
home. Since an interior chimney doesn’t continuously  
lose its heat to the outdoors, less heat from the stove is  
required to get it warm and keep it warm.  
Flue Sizing  
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance  
should be based on the cross-sectional volume of the  
stove flue outlet. In this case, more is definitely not  
better. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if a  
stove with a six-inch flue collar (28 square inch area)  
is vented into a 10” x 10” flue, the gases will expand to  
over three times their original volume. As gases cool  
with expansion, draft strength decreases. If an over-  
sized flue is also outside the house, the heat it absorbs  
will be conducted to the outdoor air and the flue will  
remain relatively cool.  
The efficiency of a modern woodburning appliance,  
(in which the amount of air available for combustion is  
regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust  
gases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics  
of your chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior  
or exterior, matched or mismatched to the stove outlet,  
- determine how quickly it will warm up and how well  
it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary to  
maintain strong draft and efficient combustion. Here fol-  
lows a description of various flue system characteristics  
and the related effects on stove performance.  
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the  
stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm  
up and the stove performance will likely be disappoint-  
ing. The best solution to an oversize flue problem is  
the installation of an insulated steel chimney liner of  
the same diameter as the appliance flue outlet. The  
liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a  
stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice  
- although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to  
its original volume, the air around the liner will require  
time and heat energy to warm up.  
Masonry Chimney  
Although masonry is the traditional material used for  
chimney construction, it can have distinct performance  
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combus-  
tion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’  
- that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of  
time.  
The large mass, however, may take a long time to  
become hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The  
larger the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take  
to warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust  
gases enough to diminish draft strength. This problem  
is worse if the chimney is located outside the home or  
if the chimney flue has a cross-sectional volume much  
larger than the stove outlet.  
Check your local codes. You may be required to install  
a flue liner in any oversize or masonry flue.  
Pipe & Chimney Layout  
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the ex-  
haust as it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap.  
The ideal pipe and chimney layout is straight up from  
the stove through a completely straight chimney. Use  
this layout if at all possible as it will promote optimum  
stove performance and simplify maintenance.  
Steel Chimney  
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a  
layer of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation  
keeps the smoke warm and protects the surrounding  
structure from the high flue temperatures. Because the  
insulation is less dense than masonry, the inner steel  
liner warms up more quickly than a masonry chimney;  
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate  
the elbow about midway between the stove top and  
the chimney thimble. This configuration lets the smoke  
speed up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the  
room for heat transfer, and allows long-term flexibility  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
minimize creosote accumulation with an effective chim-  
ney design and the use of operational techniques that  
encourage good draft and complete combustion.  
for installing a different appliance without relocating the  
thimble.  
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall  
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer  
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and  
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for  
longer runs.  
Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it whenever  
accumulation exceeds 1/4”.  
Backpuffing  
Backpuffing is a condition that results when the draft is  
too weak to pull flue gases out of the chimney system  
as fast as the fire generates them. Volatile gases build  
up within the firebox until reaching a density and tem-  
perature at which they ignite. With this ignition, you may  
hear a muffled popping sound and see a bit of smoke  
forced out of the stove.  
Single Venting  
Your stove requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect  
the stove to a flue used by any other appliance. Chim-  
ney draft is a natural form of energy and follows the  
path of least resistance. If the stove is vented to a flue  
that also serves an open fireplace or another appliance,  
the draft will also pull air in through those avenues.  
This condition is most likely to occur in the Spring or  
Fall when moderate outdoor temperatures and low  
intensity fires produce weak draft. If your stove back-  
puffs, open the damper to let the smoke rise to the flue  
more quickly. Also, open the air inlets to induce a livelier  
fire and speed airflow through the stove. Avoid large  
loads of firewood at one time. You should always see  
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is  
inefficient and will promote draft problems.  
The additional air flow will lower flue temperatures,  
reduce draft strength and promote creosote develop-  
ment; overall stove performance will suffer. The effect  
is similar to that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the  
hose. In some extreme instances, the other appliance  
can even impose a negative draft and result in a dan-  
gerous draft reversal.  
Fuel  
Draft Testing  
Even the best stove installation will not perform well  
with poor fuel. If available, always use hardwood that  
has been air-dried (“seasoned”) 12-18 months. Soft-  
wood burns more rapidly than hardwood and has a high  
pitch content that can result in creosote. Decayed wood  
of any type has little heat value and should not be used.  
An easy way to determine whether your chimney draft  
is strong enough is to close the stove damper, wait a  
few minutes to let the airflow stabilize, and then test  
whether you can vary the strength of the fire by swing-  
ing the air control open and closed. Results here are  
not instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for a  
change in the air control setting to have an effect on  
the fire. If there is no change, the draft is not yet strong  
enough to let you close the damper. You will need to  
open it for a while longer and manage the fire with the  
air inlet until the draft strengthens.  
Unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture con-  
tent. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate  
moisture before the wood can burn. This significantly  
reduces the amount of energy available to warm your  
home, as well as the intensity of the fire and tempera-  
ture of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion and  
cool flue temperatures promote creosote formation and  
weak draft.  
Keep a record of your operating habits and relate them  
to their effects on the stove’s function. You’ll be reward-  
ed with safe and efficient performance.  
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its ap-  
pearance and weight or use a commercially available  
moisture meter for an exact measurement. Unsea-  
soned wood will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also,  
look for cracks (“checking”) in the ends of the log that  
result from contraction as the wood dries. The longer  
and wider the cracks are, the dryer the wood is.  
Negative Pressure  
Good draft also depends on a sufficient supply of air  
to the stove. The chimney can’t pull in more air than is  
available to it. Sluggish draft can be caused by a house  
that is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to  
the stove, or by competition between the stove and  
other appliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e.,  
exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom  
fans, etc.  
Creosote  
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove  
operation, weak draft, or both. It is a tar that results  
when unburned gases condense inside the flue sys-  
tem at temperatures below 290˚ F. Creosote is volatile  
and can generate a chimney fire. All of the installation  
characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also  
promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you can  
If the chimney draws well when all such equipment is  
turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or  
other stoves), you need to be attentive in timing the use  
of the other appliances. If you need to crack a nearby  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
window or door to enable the chimney to pull well, you  
should install an outside-air intake to bring combustion  
air into the room.  
Conclusion  
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art in-  
cludes technique; and since installations, homes, and  
fuel vary, the stove operator must also vary technique,  
(mostly timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over time,  
you will become familiar with the features of your par-  
ticular installation; you will be able to identify cause and  
effect in a variety of seasonal circumstances, and adapt  
your operating habits to changing conditions.  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
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33  
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17  
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35  
44  
43  
41  
1
25  
23  
39  
42  
13  
14  
4
CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,  
without notice.  
Dutchwest Convection Heater  
Model 2479  
Ref. Description  
1. Bottom  
2479  
30002078  
30002230  
1203560  
30002231  
30002171  
30002170  
30002205  
2. Inner Bottom  
Primary Air Manifold to Inner Bottom Gasket (1/4” Rd Fiberglass)  
3. Inner Back  
4. Right Side  
5. Left Side  
6. Outside Air Bracket  
30002291  
30  
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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater  
Dutchwest Convection Heater (continued)  
Models 2479  
Ref. Description  
2479  
7. Fountain Assembly  
8. Brick Support Bracket  
9. Shoe Refractory  
30002100  
30000986  
30002243  
30002296  
30002244  
30002251  
30002272  
30002209  
30002213  
30002222  
30002736  
30002233  
30002236  
7000954  
Shoe Gasket  
10. Lower Fireback Refractory  
11. Upper Fireback Refractory  
12. Lower Retainer  
13. Right End Insulation  
14. Right End Refractory  
15. Lower Load Door Refractory  
16. Primary Air Flap Assembly  
17. Inner Top  
18. Fireback Retainer  
19. Damper  
20. Damper Adjuster  
7000950  
21. Damper Crank  
7000951  
22. Damper Operating Rod  
23. Ash Door  
24. Ash Lip  
30002241  
30002235  
30002237  
30002177  
1203589  
30002250  
30002253*  
30002438  
30002787  
30002234*  
30002240**  
25. Front Door  
Door Gasket (Front, Ash and Load Doors)  
26. Load Door Insulation  
27. Load Door Refractory (to June 2005)  
Load Door Refractory II (replaces above)  
28. Handle w/Lifter (Wood)  
29. Load Door (to June 2005)  
Load Door II (replaces above)  
** When using to replace original door, use new refractory and load door insulation  
30. Grate  
31. Damper Handle  
32. Top  
33. Flue Collar  
Flue Collar Gasket  
34. Outer Back  
35. Ash Pan  
36. Ashdoor Handle  
37. Glass  
Glass Gasket  
38. Glass Clips  
30002087  
5004265  
30002232  
1305050  
1305050  
30002257  
7000G89  
5004237  
30002157  
1203556  
30002146  
30002086  
30002362  
5004245  
30002293  
30002172  
30002169  
7001117  
39. Leg  
40. Pawl Assembly 3/4” Short Adjuster  
41. Front & Side Door Handle  
42. Bottom Heat Shield  
43. Primary Air Manifold  
44. Front  
45. Andirons (2)  
46. Bracket, Rheostat  
47. Pawl Assembly 1” Long Adjuster  
30002216  
5004025  
30002291  
31  
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LIMITED LIFETIME Warranty  
For Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Wood Stove  
Limited Lifetime Warranty  
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by  
this warranty but is subject to a claim against the com-  
mon carrier. Contact the Dutchwest Authorized Dealer  
from whom you purchased your stove or CFM Cor-  
poration if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate  
the stove as this may negate the ability to process the  
claim with the carrier).  
CFM Corporation warrants that all refractory brick and  
material used in this product will be warranted against  
deterioration not resulting from physical damage or  
overloading of the woodstove for the lifetime of this  
product. This coverage includes the components of  
the EverBurn System: “shoe, fountain, and fireback.  
Coverage is provided only to the original purchaser.  
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not  
conform to local building and fire codes or, in their ab-  
sence, to the recommendations in our Owners Guide.  
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-  
humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porce-  
lain enamel finish. These conditions can cause rusting  
of the cast iron beneath the porcelain enamel finish,  
which will cause the porcelain enamel finish to flake  
off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by  
a salt air or high-humidity environment.  
Limited 3 Year Warranty  
All cast iron parts are warranted for a period of three  
years against breakage, cracking or burn-through.  
Limited 1 Year Warranty  
The following parts of the woodburning stove are  
warranted to be free of defects in material and work-  
manship for a period of one year from the date you  
receive it: The handles, glass door panels, door  
gasketing and porcelain finish. Any of these items  
found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at  
no charge, upon the return of the part with postage  
prepaid to a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.  
8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance  
or update any unit once manufactured.  
IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM CORPORATION BE LIABLE  
FOR INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.  
ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED  
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS,  
ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN  
WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL  
OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.  
Any parts repaired or replaced during the limited  
warranty period will be warranted under the terms  
of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the  
remaining term of the original limited warranty or six  
(6) months, whichever is longer.  
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of  
incidental and consequential damages or limitations on  
how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limi-  
tations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you  
specific rights and you may have other rights, which vary  
from state to state.  
Exclusions & Limitations  
1. This warranty is non-transferable.  
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove.  
Misuse includes overfiring, which will result if the stove  
is used in such a manner as to cause one or more of  
the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be identified later  
by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment  
has burned off. Overfiring in enamel stoves is identi-  
fied by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discoloration  
of the porcelain enamel finish. CFM Corporation offers  
no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces. Inspect  
your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any  
damage to the enamel.  
How to Obtain Service  
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the  
customer should contact a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer  
or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct with the  
following information:  
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-  
chaser  
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as  
described in the Owners Guide, nor does it cover a  
stove which has been modified unless authorized by a  
CFM Corporation representative in writing. This war-  
ranty does not cover damage to the stove caused by  
burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood,  
or any fuel not recommended in the Owners Guide.  
4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by  
someone other than a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.  
2. Date of Purchase.  
3. Serial number from the label on the back  
4. Nature of the defect or damage.  
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., instal-  
lation, mode of operation when defect was noted.  
A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corpo-  
ration reserves the right to withhold final approval of a  
warranty claim pending a visual inspection of the defect  
by authorized representatives.  
CFM Corporation  
2695 Meadowvale Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 8A3  
800-668-5323 • www.cfmcorp.com  
© CFM Corporation  
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