Vermont Casting Electric Heater 2478 User Manual

Non-Catalytic

Convection

Heater

Model 2478

Homeowner’s Installation and Operating Manual

SAFETY NOTICE

If this heater is not properly installed, operated, and maintained, a house ﬁre may result.

For safety, follow all installation, operation and maintenance directions. Contact local

building ofﬁcials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your

area.

DO NOT DISCARD THIS MANUAL: Retain for future use

30002278 10/06 Rev. 11

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Speciﬁcations

Model 2478

26³⁄₄” (683 mm)

27¹⁄₄” (695 mm)

29³⁄₄” (756 mm)

23” (584 mm)

17¹⁄₂ ” (445 mm)

27¹⁄₄” (692 mm) Center of Flue Collar, Rear Exit

30¹⁄₂” (775 mm)

5³⁄₄” (146 mm)

Log length

22” (560 mm)

Maximum burn time¹

Average area heated (sq. ft.)²

Range of heat output⁴

Up to 10 hrs.

800 - 1600 (74 - 149 m²)

10,600 - 25,300 Btu/hr.

40,000 Btu/hr.

Maximum heat output¹

EPA emissions rating⁴(g/h, non-catalytic)

1.49

Weight

420 lbs. (191 kg)

Side or front

Flue exit position (reversible)

Air control

Top or rear

One

Fig. 1 Dutchwest Convection Heater speciﬁcations.

1. Maximum burn times and heat outputs are based on laboratory testing using full loads of seasoned hardwoods, and may vary in individual use

depending on how the stove is operated, type and moisture content of fuels, and other factors. Maximum burn times are achieved under different

operating conditions than are maximum heat outputs.

2. These values are based on operation in building code-conforming homes under typical Winter climate conditions in the northeastern U.S. If your

home is of nonstandard construction (e.g. unusually well-insulated, not insulated, built underground, or if you live in a more severe or more temper-

ate climate), these ﬁgures may not apply. Since so many variables affect performance, consult your Dutchwest Authorized Dealer to determine

realistic expectations for your home.

4. Under speciﬁc conditions used during EPA emissions testing.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Installation

SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-

VECTION HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED,

OPERATED AND MAINTAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY

RESULT. FOR SAFETY, FOLLOW ALL INSTALLA-

TION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE DIREC-

TIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS

ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION

INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.

Masonry Chimneys

If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be

inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove

is installed. Your local professional chimney sweep,

building inspector, or ﬁre department ofﬁcial will be able

either to make the inspection or to direct you to some-

one who can.

An inspection of the chimney must conﬁrm that it has

a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chim-

ney should also be examined for cracks, loose mortar,

other signs of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any

defects before the chimney is used with your stove.

Before you begin the installation, review your plans to

conﬁrm that:

• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enough

from combustible material to meet all clearance require-

ments.

Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must

be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney

wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Open-

ings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard

and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.

In the event of a chimney ﬁre, ﬂames and smoke may

be forced out of these unused thimbles.

• The ﬂoor protector is large enough and is constructed

properly to meet all requirements.

• You have obtained all necessary permits from local

authorities.

Your local building ofﬁcial is the ﬁnal authority for ap-

proving your installation as safe and for determining

that it meets local and state codes.

The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.

Clearance and installation information is printed on the

metal label attached to the rear of the stove. Local au-

thorities generally will accept the label as evidence that,

when the stove is installed according to the information

on the label and in this manual, the installation meets

codes and can be approved.

A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the

standards of your local building code or, in the absence

of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry

chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved

masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel

pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The

chimney’s clean-out door must seal tightly.

Codes vary in different areas, however. Before starting

the installation, review your plans with the local building

authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional

information needed.

Prefabricated Double-Wall

Insulated Chimney

Important: Failure to follow these installation instruc-

tions may result in a dangerous situation, including a

chimney or house ﬁre. Follow all instructions exactly,

and do not allow makeshift compromises to endanger

property and personal safety.

Chimney Types

Tile Lined

Masonry

Chimney

Your Dutchwest Convection Heater must be connected

to 1) a chimney complying with the requirements for

Type HT chimneys in the standard for Chimneys, Fac-

tory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating Appli-

ance, UL 103, or 2) a code-approved masonry chimney

with a ﬂue liner.

ST241

Fig. 2 If in sound condition and approved for use, either a

Whatever kind you use, the chimney and chimney con-

nector must be in good condition and kept clean.

masonry or a prefabricated chimney may be used.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Guidelines for Installing

the Chimney Connector

Prefabricated Chimneys

A prefabricated metal chimney must be one tested and

listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.

The chimney connector is the single-wall pipe, or listed

and approved double-wall pipe that connects the stove

to the chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or

prefabricated structure that encloses the ﬂue. Chimney

connectors are used only to make the connection from

the stove to the chimney.

A horizontal connector run should be inclined 1/4” per

foot (20 mm per meter) from the stove toward the

chimney. The recommended maximum length of a hori-

zontal run is 3 feet (1m) and the total length of chimney

connector should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5m).

Do not pass the chimney connector through a combus-

tible wall, ﬂoor, or ceiling, through an attic or roof space,

or through a closet or similar concealed space. If pas-

sage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, follow

the recommendations in the following section on Wall

Pass-Throughs. Keep the passage as short and direct

as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns.

Chimney Height

For proper draft and good performance, the chimney

should extend at least 16’ (5 m) above the ﬂue collar of

the stove.

The chimney must also extend at least 3’ (914 mm)

above the highest point where it passes through a roof,

and at least 2’ (610 mm) higher than any portion of a

building within 10’ (3 m). (Fig. 2)

Two Types of Connector

You may use either a single-wall steel connector of the

size and gauge described below, or a listed and ap-

proved double-wall connector.

DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY

FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

Single-Wall Connector

0 To 10'

The single-wall chimney connector should be made of

24 gauge or heavier steel, and must have a minimum

internal diameter of 6” (150 mm) for model 2478.

2' Min.

0 To 10'

Min.

Install single-wall chimney connector not less than 18”

(450 mm) from the ceiling.

2' Min.

Min.

In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-

cated chimney downward to within 8 feet (2.5 meters)

of the stove. The entire chimney connector should be

exposed and accessible for inspection and cleaning.

Reference

Point

AC246

Do not use galvanized chimney connector; it cannot

withstand the high temperatures that can be reached

by smoke and exhaust gases and it may release toxic

fumes under high heat.

Fig. 3 The 2/3/10 rule for chimneys.

Chimney Size

Chimney

Flue Liner

The Model 2478 heater should be vented into a ma-

sonry chimney with a square ﬂue with nominal ﬂue size

of 8” x 8” (203 x 203 mm), or a round ﬂue with nominal

ﬂue size of 6” (152 mm).

Flue

Elbow

Thimble

Slip Pipe

Chimney liners larger than 8” x 12” (203 x 305 mm)

may promote rapid cooling of smoke and reduction in

draft, especially if they are located outside the home.

These large chimneys may need to be insulated or

have their ﬂues relined for proper stove performance.

Standard Connector

Flue Collar

Accessories to help make the connection between

stainless steel chimney liners and the stove are avail-

able through your local dealer.

Floor Protector

ST418

Fig. 4 Sections of a steel chimney connector of at least 24

gauge thickness are fastened together with screws to

connect the stove to the chimney.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

2. Secure each joint between sections of chimney con-

nector, including telescoping joints, with at least three

sheet metal screws.

Double-Wall Connector

Information on assembling and installing double-wall

connectors is provided by the manufacturer of the

double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s installation

instructions exactly. Most manufacturers of prefabri-

cated double-wall insulated chimneys also offer double-

wall connector pipes. Using a chimney and connector

pipe from the same manufacturer helps simplify the

assembly and installation.

3. Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-

structions for various installations follow below.

Conﬁrm that the installed stove and chimney con-

nector are correct distances from nearby combustible

material. See the clearance charts on pages 12 and 13.

NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form

telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-

nector are available to simplify installations. They can

eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.

Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.

NOTE: For installations using double-wall connec-

tors, minimum clearances must conform to listed

clearances in the Stove and Chimney Connector

Clearance Charts on Page 12 and 13 of this manual.

Securing the Connector to a

Prefabricated Chimney

Assembling Single-Wall

Chimney Connector

Follow the installation instructions of the chimney

manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The

manufacturer of the chimney will supply the acces-

sories to support the chimney, either from the roof of

the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove is

installed, or from an exterior wall.

SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and safety

goggles when drilling, cutting or joining sections of

chimney connector.

For double-wall connectors, follow the manufacturer’s

instructions exactly. For single-wall connectors, follow

the instructions below.

Special adaptors are available from your local dealer

to make the connection between the prefabricated

chimney and the chimney connector. (Fig. 6) The top

of such adaptors attach directly to the chimney or to the

chimney’s ceiling support package, while the bottom of

the adaptor is screwed to the chimney connector.

1. Insert the crimped end of the ﬁrst section into the

stove’s ﬂue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing

toward the stove (Fig.5). Using the holes in the ﬂue col-

lar as guides, drill 1/8” (3 mm) holes in the bottom of the

ﬁrst section of chimney connector and secure it to the

ﬂue collar with three #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws.

These adaptors are designed so the top end will ﬁt

outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom

end will ﬁt inside the ﬁrst section of chimney connector.

Any soot or creosote falling from the inner walls of the

chimney will stay inside the chimney connector.

Toward

Stove

Prefab (Insulated)

Chimney

Flue Gas

Direction

Ceiling Support

Package

ST242

Prefab Chimney

Adapter

Fig. 5 Crimped sections always point toward the stove so

that any liquid condensation will not leak out.

Chimney Connector

(Stovepipe)

ST419

Fig. 6 Joining the chimney connector to a prefabricated

chimney.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Securing the Connector

to a Masonry Chimney

Thimble

Sleeve

Flue

The Dutchwest Convection heater may be connected

to either a freestanding masonry chimney or a masonry

ﬁreplace chimney.

Elbow

Thimble

Keep

Sleeve

End Flush

with Flue

Tile

Freestanding Installations

If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-

tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-

tions in the wall pass-through section that follows.

The opening through the chimney wall to the ﬂue

(the “breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or

metal cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely

cemented in place. (Fig. 7) Most chimney breeches

incorporate thimbles, but check to be sure the ﬁt is snug

and the joint between thimble and chimney wall ﬁrmly

cemented.

Chimney

Connector

ST243

Flue Liner

Fig. 7 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be

cemented in place securely.

Masonry Wall

Ceramic Flue Liner

A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly

smaller in diameter than the standard connector and

most thimbles, will ease the removal of the chimney

connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble

sleeves should be available from your local dealer.

Chimney Connector

Shield

Block-Off Plate

To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until

it is ﬂush with the inner ﬂue wall. Don’t extend it into

the actual ﬂue passage, as that could interfere with the

draft.

Chimney Connector

The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2” (25-50 mm)

into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing

to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the

chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with

sheet metal screws.

ST796as

Fireplace Installations -

Above the Fireplace

Fig. 8 The connector enters ﬂue above the ﬁreplace. If the

clearance between the chimney connector and either the

mantel and/or the ceiling is inadequate, special protective

shields will be required.

In this installation, the chimney connector rises from

the stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into the

ﬁreplace chimney. The liner of the ﬁreplace chimney

should extend at least to the point at which the chimney

connector enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines

for installing a chimney connector into a freestanding

masonry chimney, and pay special attention to these

additional points:

Flue Liner

Extend Chimney Con-

Damper

Plate is

Removed

or Locked

in Open

Position

nector to the First Tile of

the Flue Liner

Observe

Miniumum Clearances

• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances

to combustible mantel or trim materials. Use the

necessary combination of mantel, trim, and connec-

tor heat shields to provide the required clearances.

(Fig. 8)

Close Off

the Damper

Opening with

Sheet Metal

and Sealant

• Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.

• The ﬁreplace damper must be closed and sealed

to prevent room air from being drawn up the ﬂue,

reducing the draft. However, it must be possible to

ST797

Fig. 9 The connector passes through the ﬁreplace to enter

ﬂue. Special Fireplace Adapter Kits to simplify ﬁreplace instal-

lations are available from your local dealer.

re-open the damper to inspect or clean the chimney.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Fireplace Installations -

Through the Fireplace

12”

(305 mm)

The Convection heater may be installed either without

legs* as a ﬁreplace insert, or with standard legs at-

tached - depending on the safety regulations that apply

to your situation, the height of the ﬁreplace opening and

your own preference. For either situation, the chimney

connector/positive connection kit extends back from the

stove, enters the ﬁreplace cavity, and turns upward. It

then passes through the ﬁreplace damper opening and

smoke chamber and connects to the chimney ﬂue.

Chimney

Connector

12”

(305 mm)

In such installations, a “positive connection” must be

made to the chimney ﬂue with a special kit available

from your local dealer. Also, special clearance and ﬂoor

protection provisions must be observed. These provi-

sions are discussed in the Clearance and Floor Protec-

tion sections respectively.

ST420

Fig. 10 Wall pass-through enclosed with noncombustible

materials.

Wall Pass-Throughs

18” (450 mm)

Empty Space

All Around the

Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-

nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you

must use a wall pass-through in your installation, check

with your building inspector before you begin and con-

struct it in accordance with local building codes. Also

check with the chimney connector manufacturer for any

speciﬁc requirements.

Chimney Con-

Sheet Metal

nector

Cover

(One side

only)

Accessories are available for use as wall pass-

throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been

tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.

All combustible material in the wall is cut away a sufﬁ-

cient distance from the single-wall connector to provide

the required 12” (305 mm) clearance for the connector.

Any material used to close up the opening must be non-

combustible.

ST421

Fig. 11 Hollow wall pass-through.

The following wall pass-through methods may be ap-

proved in your area:

DO NOT CONNECT THE HEATER TO ANY AIR

DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM

• Use a section of listed factory-built chimney with a

nine-inch clearance to combustibles.

In Canada: The Canadian Standards Association has

established different guidelines. Figure 11 shows one

method, in which all combustible material in the wall is

cut away to provide the required 18” (450 mm) clear-

ance for the connector. The resulting space must

remain empty.

• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a ventilated

thimble, which is then separated from combustibles

by 6” (152 mm) of ﬁberglass insulating material.

• If the stove is installed without legs, we recommend

the use of noncombustible tiles or pavers as shims to

allow air ﬂow into the convection air inlets under the

stove. Make sure not to block air slots instove bottom

with shims or remove fan cover.

• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a section of

listed solid-insulated, factory-built chimney, with an

inside diameter 2” (51 mm) larger than the chimney

connector and having 1” (25 mm) or more of insula-

tion and maintaining a minimum 2 inch air space

between the outer wall of the chimney and combus-

tibles.

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A ﬂush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on one

side only. If covers must be used on both sides, each

cover must be mounted on non-combustible spacers

at least 1” (25 mm) clear of the wall. Your Dutchwest

dealer or your local building inspector can provide de-

tails of other approved methods of passing a chimney

connector through a combustible wall. In Canada, this

type of installation must conform to CAN/CSA-B365,

Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and

Equipment.

NOTE: Do not vent your Dutchwest stove into a factory-

built (zero-clearance) ﬁreplace. These appliances and

their chimneys are speciﬁcally designed as a unit for

use as ﬁreplaces. It may void the listing or be hazard-

ous to adapt them for any other use.

U.S.

16”

6”

Canada

18” (457 mm)

8” (203 mm)

10” (254 mm)

10”

ST798

Floor Protection

Minimum Dimensions for Noncombustible Floor

Protectors (Width x Depth):

A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom

plate of your Dutchwest stove. The ﬂoor area directly

under and around the stove will require protection from

radiant heat as well as from stray sparks or embers that

may escape the ﬁrebox.

(5/8” /16mm thick min. with an R-value of at least 0.744)

Model

U.S.

Canada

2478 49¹⁄₂” x 45” 53¹⁄₂” x 49” (1359 mm x 1245 mm)

Fig. 12 Be sure to follow exactly the minimum ﬂoor protection

requirements on all four sides of the stove.

Heat protection is provided by the CFM Corporation

Bottom Heat Shield. Spark, ember and thermal protec-

tion must be provided by a ﬂoor protector constructed

with noncombustible material as speciﬁed.

In the US and Canada most installations will require

that the bottom heat shield must be attached. Only

when the stove is placed on a completely noncombusti-

ble surface such as unpainted concrete over earth may

it be used without the heat shield.

Even when the bottom heat shield is installed, you

must provide special protection to the ﬂoor beneath.

For installation with the heat shield attached, use an

approved 5/8” (16mm) noncombustible hearth pad with

K = 0.84 BTU/in ft²hr °F or an equivalent material with

an R-value of at least 0.744. (Refer to “How to Deter-

mine if Alternate Floor Protection Materials are Accept-

able” section)The ﬂoor protector may be covered with

a decorative noncombustible material if desired. Do not

obstruct the space under the heater.

ST799

Fig. 13 Combustible supporting timbers (A) may lie beneath

ﬁreplace hearths; such situations require additional ﬂoor

protection.

Due to the side loading door, ﬂoor protector require-

ments call for more protection on the left side than on

the right. If you wish a more balanced look, increase

the other side of the hearth as well. Do not reduce side

protection under any circumstances.

Protection requirements vary somewhat between the

United States and Canada as follows:

U.S. Installations: The ﬂoor protector is required under

the stove and must extend at least 16” from the front

and left (loading door) side of the stove, and at least 6”

from the right side and rear. (Fig. 12)

How to Determine if Alternate Floor Protection Ma-

terials are Acceptable

All ﬂoor protection must be noncombustible (i.e. met-

als, brick, stone, mineral ﬁber boards, etc.). Any organic

materials (i.e. plastics, wood paper products, etc.) are

combustible and must not be used. The ﬂoor protection

speciﬁed includes some form of thermal designation

such as R-value (thermal resistance) or k-factor (ther-

mal conductivity).

In Canada: a noncombustible ﬂoor protector is required

under the heater also. The ﬂoor protector must extend

18” (457mm) from the front and left (loading door) side

of the stove, and at least 8” (203mm) from the right side

and rear. (Fig. 12)

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Procedure:

To install the heater without legs as a ﬁreplace insert,

the ﬂoor must be completely noncombustible, such as

an unpainted concrete ﬂoor over earth.

1. Convert speciﬁcations to R-value:

i. R-value given - no conversion needed.

Many ﬁreplaces do not satisfy the “completely non-

combustible” requirement because the brick or con-

crete hearth in front of the ﬁreplace opening usually is

supported by heavy wooden framing as in Figure 13.

Because heat passes readily through brick or concrete,

it can easily pass through to the wood. As a result, such

ﬁreplace hearths are considered a combustible ﬂoor.

You may not install a heater on a combustible hearth

without legs. Standard leg installations must include the

bottom heat shield. The ﬂoor protector must also meet

standard requirements for freestanding installations.

ii. k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in

inches:

R = x T

iii. K-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in

inches:

R =

x T

K x 12

iv. r-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in

inches: R = r x T

2. Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate

ﬂoor protector:

i. Use the formula in Step 1 to convert values not

expressed as R.

ii. For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to

determine overall R-value.

Floor Protection for Fireplace

Installations with Standard Legs

3. If the overall R-value of the system is greater than

the R-value of the speciﬁed ﬂoor protector, the alter-

nate is acceptable.

Fireplace installations with the standard legs and the

bottom heat shield must have a ﬂoor protector of the

same construction as that speciﬁed for freestanding

installations: use an approved 5/8” (16mm) noncom-

bustible hearth pad with K = 0.84 BTU/in ft²hr °F or an

equivalent material with an R-value of at least 0.744

(that may be covered with a decorative noncombustible

material if you desire). (Refer to “How to Determine if

Alternate Floor Protection Materials are Acceptable”

section) The ﬂoor protector must extend at least 16”

(406 mm) [18” / 457 mm in Canada] from the front of

the stove and from the left (loading door) side, and at

least 8” (203 mm) from the right side and rear. It must

also provide protection beneath any horizontal runs of

the chimney connector, including 2” to either side.

EXAMPLE: The speciﬁed ﬂoor protector should be 5/8-

inch thick material with k-factor of 0.84. The proposed

alternate is 4” brick with an r-factor of 0.2 over 1/8”

mineral board with a k-factor of 0.29

Step a: Use formula above to convert speciﬁcation to

0.84

R-value: R = x T =

x 0.625 = 0.744

Step b: Calculate R of proposed system.

4” brick of r = 0.2, therefore:

_brick= 0.2 x 4 = 0.8

1/8” mineral board of k = 0.29, therefore

0.29

R_mineralboard

x 0.125 = 0.431

Many raised hearths will extend less than the required

distance from the front of the heater when it is installed.

In such cases, sufﬁcient ﬂoor protection, as described

above, must be added to extend the hearth 16” (406

mm) [18” (457 mm) in Canada].

_total= R_brick+ R_mineralboard= 0.8 + 0.431 = 1.231

Step c: Compare proposed system Rtotal of 1.231 to

speciﬁed R of 0.744. Since proposed system Rtotal

is greater than required, the system is acceptable.

(ft²)(hr)(°F)

Btu

Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for ﬂoor

protection.

Deﬁnitions

R =

k =

(Btu)(in)

Fireplace insert installations also have speciﬁc clear-

ance requirements to the side walls, side decorative

trim, and ﬁreplace mantel. This information is found in

“Fireplace Installation Clearances” in this section.

= K x 12

(ft²)(hr)(°F)

(Btu)(ft)

K =

r =

(ft²)(hr)(°F)

REMINDER- FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATIONS

WITHOUT LEGS ARE PERMISSIBLE ONLY IF THE

HEARTH IS COMPLETELY NONCOMBUSTIBLE,

SUCH AS UNPAINTED CONCRETE OVER EARTH.

(ft²)(hr)(°F)

(Btu)(in)

Fireplace Installations

The Dutchwest Model 2478 has a reversible ﬂue collar

to allow for either top exit or rear exit installations.

You may install your Dutchwest Model 2478 in an exist-

ing ﬁreplace as a ﬁreplace insert with no legs, or with

the standard legs attached.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Clearances

Keep the Stove a Safe Distance

From Surrounding Materials

Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat

in all directions when operating. A safe installation re-

quires that adequate clearance be maintained between

the stove and nearby combustible materials to ensure

that such materials do not overheat.

Clearance is the distance between either your stove or

chimney connector, and nearby walls, ﬂoors, the ceiling,

and any other ﬁxed combustible surface. Keep furnish-

ings and other combustible materials away from the

stove as well. In general, a distance of 48” (1220 mm)

must be maintained between the stove and moveable

combustible items such as drying clothes, furniture,

newspapers, ﬁrewood, etc. Keeping those clearance

areas empty assures that nearby surfaces and objects

will not overheat.

ST809

Fig. 14 Extra ﬂoor protection may be required for the ﬁre-

place hearth, even if your stove is installed with the legs and

the bottom heat shield.

Fireplace Installation Clearances

Safe Ways to Reduce Clearances

A ﬁreplace installation requires special clearance be-

tween the:

Your stove has speciﬁc clearance requirements that

have been established through careful research and

testing to UL and ULC standards.

• Side of the stove and the right and left walls

• Side of the stove and the decorative side trim on

the ﬁreplace face

Clearance requirements have been established to meet

every installation possibility, and they involve the combi-

nation of basic variables:

• Top of the stove and the mantel

In addition, both Fireplace Adaptor and Fireplace Insert

installations have special ﬂoor protection requirements

that are addressed in the section on Floor Protection.

• When the stove has no listed heat shield

• When the stove has a listed heat shield

• When the wall has no heat shield

• When the wall has a heat shield

• When the stove has a double-wall chimney con-

nector

• When the stove has a single-wall connector

with heat shields, or without heat shields

In general, the greatest clearance is required when you

locate a stove with no heat shield near a wall with no

heat shield. The least clearance is required when both

the stove and the wall have heat shields. Reducing a

stove clearance may require a listed heat shield on the

chimney connector as well, or a double-wall connector.

Clearances may be reduced only by means approved

by the regulatory authority and in accordance with the

clearances listed in this manual. The charts and sample

installations that follow list all the clearances required

for the various installation conﬁgurations of Dutchwest

Convection Heaters.

ST800

Side Walls (S)................ 14¹⁄₂” (368 mm)

Trim (T).......................... 8” (203 mm)

Top Trim (TT)................. 11” (294 mm)

Mantel (M) ..................... 17¹⁄₂” (445 mm)

Fig. 15 Minimum clearances for ﬁreplace installation. Recom-

mended clearances must be maintained between stove and

the surrounding combustible components.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Designing a Safe Installation

Clearance Chart Reference Diagrams

Refer to the diagrams below when using the Stove and

Chimney Connector Clearance Chart that follows. For

example, the letter “A” gives the minimum side clear-

ance for installations in which the stove is not equipped

with any heat shield and the wall beside the stove is not

protected. “D” gives the minimum side clearance when

the stove does not have any heat shield, but the wall is

protected.

The section that follows contains charts with the infor-

mation that you’ll need to make your installation safe.

Included are a chart to tell you exactly where to cut the

hole in the ceiling so that the stove will meet clearance

requirements, a chart that gives stove clearances for

all installations, and a chart to illustrate the required

sizes of wall shields for various installations.

Refer to these charts as you plan the installation and do

not compromise on any of the dimensions listed.

Measure clearance distances from the top plate of the

stove or chimney connector to the wall, not the wall

protector.

Unprotected Surfaces

Protected Surfaces

Parallel Installations

Corner Installations

Parallel Installations

Corner Installations

Installations with no stove heat shields

N / A

Rear exit, ﬂue collar heat shield installations

ST255a

Top exit, ﬂue collar heat shield, right side heat shield and chimney connector heat shields or double wall

connector

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Stove and Chimney Connector Clearance Charts

Model 2478 Medium Convection Heater

UNPROTECTED SURFACES

Corner

Installations Parallel Installations

PROTECTED SURFACES

Corner

Installations

Parallel Installations

Stove Clearance

No heat shields

Side

(A) 20”

(508 mm)

(G) 16”

(406 mm)

(K) 14”

(356 mm)

Right Side

Only

Rear³

(B) 25”

(635 mm)

(H) 12”

(305 mm)

Corner

(394 mm)

N/A

Side

(D) 7”

(178 mm)

N/A

Rear³

(E) 19”

(483 mm)

N/A

Corner

(F) 10¹⁄₂”

(267 mm)

N/A

Rear exit,

ﬂue collar heat shields

Top exit^1,2, ﬂue collar

Single-wall connector

w/connector heat shield

and right side heat shield

Top exit¹, ﬂue collar

heat shield,

(L) 15”

(381 mm)

(M) 7¹⁄₂”

(191 mm)

(N) 7”

(178 mm)

Right Side

Only

(N) 8”

(178 mm)

(O) 11”

(279 mm)

(P) 7”

(178 mm)

(K) 17”

(432 mm)

(L) 15”

(381 mm)

(M) 7¹⁄₂”

(191 mm)

(O) 14¹⁄₂”

(368 mm)

(P) 7”

(178 mm)

Double wall connector

Chimney Connector Clearance:

Single-wall connector

No connector heat shield

Single-wall²connector

20”

(508 mm)

14”

(356 mm)

6”

10”

w/connector heat shield

& ﬂue collar heat shield

(254 mm)

(152 mm)

Double-wall connector

10”

9¹⁄₂”

& ﬂue collar heat shield

(254 mm)

(241 mm)

Front Clearance to Combustibles:

(All Installations)

48” (1219 mm)

1. Shielding for a top exit stove must include a ﬂue collar shield to protect the area behind the ﬂue collar.

2. Chimney connector heat shields must extend exactly 24” (610 mm) above the ﬂue collar of the stove.

3. Dimension is to the top plate of the stove, not the back wall of the stove.

Important:

When choosing an installation utilizing the side loading door located on the left side of the stove, follow the

minimum dimensions given in the Stove and Chimney Connector Chart on Page 13 and the Minimum Dimen-

sions for Noncombustible Floor Protectors given on Page 9, Figure 12.

For operation of the side loading door, the minimum clearances on the left side of the stove for usable opera-

tion is 13” (330 mm) in a corner installation and 18” (457 mm) in a parallel installation.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Distance from Center of Flue Collar to Wall in Top-Exit Installations

Dutchwest Convection Heater Model 2478

NOTE: These are not clearance distances. These measurements indicate where the centerline of the ﬂue col-

lar will be for various installations. Measurements are from the centerline of the ﬂue collar to the wall, not the

wall protector.

ST427

UNPROTECTED SURFACES

Corner

Installations Parallel Installations

PROTECTED SURFACES

Corner

Installations

Parallel Installations

Chimney Connector

Listed, Approved

Double-wall, with

ﬂue collar shield

Side

(A) 30”

(762 mm)

Rear

(B) 13”

(330 mm)

Corner

(470 mm)

Side

(D) 21”

(533 mm)

Rear

(E) 12¹⁄₂”

(318 mm)

Corner

(F) 18”

(457 mm)

Single wall, with

(A) 27”

(B) 13”

(D) 20”

(E) 9”

(F) 15”

Connector heat shields

and ﬂue collar shield

Single wall with no

heat shields

(686 mm)

(330 mm)

(470 mm)

(508 mm)

(229 mm)

(381 mm)

(A) 33”

(838 mm)

(B) 23”

(584 mm)

(673 mm)

(D) 20”

(508 mm)

(E) 17”

(432 mm)

(F) 21¹⁄₂”

(546 mm)

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Wall Heat Shield Dimensions

DutchWest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater Model #2478

48”

(1220 mm)

48” (1220 mm)

Rear Exit

60” (1525 mm)

48” (1220 mm)

Centered Behind Stove

Spaced 1”

(25 mm)

from Floor

Spaced 1”

(25 mm)

from Floor

ST802

ST801

Fig. 16 Rear wall protection.

Fig. 17 Sidewall protection.

Wall Shields

Meet at

Corner

60”

(1525 mm)

48”

(1220 mm)

Spaced 1”

(25 mm)

from Floor

ST803

Fig. 18 Corner wall protection.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Assembly

Your convection heater requires some assembly.

Bottom Heat Shield

Follow the directions carefully and refer to the parts

diagram at the back of this manual.

Unpack the Parts

Remove the bottom heat shield strapped to the top of

the stove and all loose parts from the ﬁrebox and the

ash pan. Check to make sure all the parts are included

and intact. You should have received:

• 1 fully assembled heater body

• 1 bottom heat shield*

• 4 legs

• 1 ash pan

• 1 ceramic handle assembly

• 1 hardware bag, containing the following parts:

• (3) #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws, (to attach the

chimney connector to the ﬂue collar)

• (1) 1/8” Allen wrench, (to tighten the door latch)

• (1) 5/32” Allen wrench, (to tighten the damper

handle)

ST813

Fig. 19 Remove bands holding stove to pallet and remove

heat shield from to of stove.

• (4) washers, (used with the leg bolts to attach

legs to the stove)

• (1) door handle insert holder (for storing the ce-

ramic handle assembly when it is not in use.)

• (4) 1/4-20 x 1” hex head screws, (to attach legs)

If any parts are missing or damaged, immediately notify

your Dutchwest dealer for replacements. Do not install

your stove without having all necessary parts or using

damaged parts.

Leg

Bolt

* A Bottom Heat Shield is required in many instal-

lations. Refer to the ﬂoor protection information

found in the Installation Section of this manual.

Attach the Legs and Heat Shield

NOTE: To avoid damaging the sheet metal compo-

nents, do not place the stove on its back to install the

legs. Follow the instructions below.

Handle Insert

Holder

ST814

1. Remove the band that holds the stove to the pallet

and remove the bottom heat shield that was posi-

tioned on top of the stove. (Fig. 19)

2. Rotate the stove counterclockwise until the front left

corner overhangs the pallet and the leg-mounting

hole is accessible. (Fig. 20)

3. Remove and discard the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head

bolts that are in the leg holes on the bottom of the

stove.

Fig. 20 Rotate stove on pallet to expose front left corner.

4. In the hardware bag, locate the four legs, the door

handle insert holder, (on this leg only, the door

handle insert holder is used along with a washer),

(4) 1/4-20 x 1” leg bolts and four (4) washers.

5. Place the bolt through a washer and then the door

handle insert holder and align the leg with the bolt

hole in the bottom of the stove. Tighten securely.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

6. Reposition the stove so the other front corner over-

hangs the pallet and remove the leg bolt from the

bottom of the stove. Align the leg with the bolt hole

in the bottom of the stove, and attach it with the bolt

and washer. Tighten securely.

7. Reposition the stove so the ﬁrst rear leg can be at-

tached. Attach the leg using the procedure described

in Step 6. (Fig. 21)

Fan Kit Installation

1. Secure the fan assembly to the inner back with two

(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex head screws and one (1) 1/4”

star washer as shown in Figure 22.

2. Attach snapstat to the mounting holes on the un-

derside of the bottom with two (2) 1/4-20 pan head

screws.

3. Attach the rheostat to the door handle insert holder

near the front left leg. Insert the rheostat control

shaft through the handle holder hole. Install the

retaining ring and rheostat knob onto the shaft.

8. Reposition the stove so the remaining leg can be

attached. Attach it using the procedure described in

Step 6. Remove the pallet from beneath the stove.

9. Remove the (4) 1/4-20 x 3/8” hex head bolts from

the mounting bosses and attach the bottom heat

shield using the same bolts.

4. Place cables where they won’t be harmed by trafﬁc.

5. Fan will not operate until stove reaches approxi-

mately 109°F.

Carefully move the stove to its ﬁnal position. One way

to lessen the effort of moving the stove over smooth

ﬂooring is to slide it on a piece of inverted carpet. Move

it slowly to ensure the ﬂoor is not scratched.

Retighten all leg fastening hardware.

Rheostat

Knob

Pan

Snapstat

Head

Screws

Rheostat

ST813

Fig. 22 Fan installation.

ST816

Fig. 21 Reposition stove so one rear leg can be attached.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Operation

Heater Controls and Features

Air Control

The Dutchwest Convection Heater Model 2478 has a

control that regulates the amount of air drawn into the

stove. Generally, more air entering the stove allows the

ﬁre to burn hotter and faster, while less air decreases

heat output and prolongs the overall burn time.

The Air Control Lever is located at the lower front

edge of the left side (looking from the front of the

stove). (Fig. 23) The lever operates two internal shut-

ters. Opening the inlet shutters provides air for primary

combustion.

Primary Air

Control Lever

ST811

Fig. 24 Turn primary air control lever clockwise to open.

Damper

Side Loading

Door

Primary

Air Control

Lever

ST812

Front Loading Door

ST810

Fig. 25 Turn primary air control lever counterclockwise to

close.

Fig. 23 The heater controls.

To open the shutters, turn the lever clockwise. The

shutters are all the way open when the lever points to-

ward the rear at a “9:00” position. (Fig. 24) To close the

shutters, turn the lever counterclockwise. The shutters

are fully closed when the lever points straight down.

(Fig. 25)

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Damper Function

Successful Wood Burning

The Damper is operated by moving the handle on

the upper left side of the stove. (Fig. 26) It has two

positions: OPEN, to start the ﬁre and load fuel, and

CLOSED, for greatest efﬁciency and heat. When the

damper is closed, exhaust gases travel through a

secondary combustion chamber at the rear of the stove

before ﬂowing into the chimney.

Woodburning is often said to be more of an art than a

science. You’ll easily master the art if you start by using

good, dry fuel and by understanding how the stove’s air

supply system operates.

Burn Only High-Quality Fuel

Your heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Do

not burn other fuels. Never burn pressure-treated wood,

painted or stained wood, or glossy newsprint.

Use the door insert handle to rotate the damper handle.

Turn it counterclockwise to open the damper and clock-

wise to close it. You will feel resistance as the damper

mechanism engages into the open (counterclockwise)

position.

High efﬁciencies and low emissions are only possible

when burning air-dried, seasoned woods. Avoid burning

“green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.

The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,

ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and

air-dried outside under cover for at least one year. If

hardwood is not available, tamarack, yellow pine, white

pine, Eastern red cedar, ﬁr, and redwood are softwoods

that are commonly burned. They too should be prop-

erly dried. The length of the wood should be the same

as that speciﬁed for your particular stove. Avoid using

wood that has been dried more than two years. Often

gray in color, this wood burns very quickly, resulting in

short burn time and dimin-

The stove damper must be open when you start a

ﬁre, load fuel, or before you open either door for

any reason.

Load Doors

A Side Loading Door allows the easiest loading of

wood logs. The Front Door opens for adding an occa-

sional log to the ﬁre. Always be sure to open the stove

damper before opening either door.

ished stove performance.

If you must burn it, mix it in

with greener wood to slow

the burn.

Open

Closed

Door Insert Handle

Store your ﬁrewood under

cover to keep it dry. Even

for short-term storage, keep

wood outside of the heater’s

installation clearances and

outside of the space around

the heater required for refu-

eling and ash removal.

ST804

Fig. 26 Damper operating positions.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Use the Air Control Settings

that Work Best for You

No single control setting will ﬁt every situation. Each

installation will differ depending on the quality of the

fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish

the ﬁre to burn.

High

Medium

Control settings also depend on your particular instal-

lation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the

stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such

things as the height, type, and location of the chimney,

local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.

Low

Closed

Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in

the stove. On the other hand, too little draft can cause

backpufﬁng into the room and/or insufﬁcient heat.

ST817

Fig. 27 Position the primary air control lever for different burn

rates.

How do you know if your draft is excessively high or

low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncon-

trollable burn or a part of the stove or chimney con-

nector glowing-red. Inadequate draft may is indicated

by smoke leaking into the room through the stove or

chimney connector joints.

DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH

DOOR OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOR

OPEN CAN CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITION

TO OCCUR. OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGER-

OUS AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE,

INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

When ﬁrst using the stove, keep a record of the results

you achieve from different control settings. You will

ﬁnd that speciﬁc settings will give you a ﬁxed amount

of heat. It may take a week or two to determine the

amount of heat and the length of burn you should ex-

pect from various control settings.

How to Build and Maintain a Wood Fire

Loading Wood

You can load wood into your Dutchwest Convection

Heater through either the front or side doors. Front

loading is useful for kindling a new ﬁre and adding an

occasional log; however, we recommend side-loading

as most convenient when adding several logs at a time.

Always be certain that the stove damper is open before

opening either door.

Notice that changes in the weather have a strong effect

on chimney draft. Higher outdoor temperatures and

lower air pressure both weaken draft; lower tempera-

tures and higher air pressure encourage a stronger

draft. An exception to this is in installations with outdoor

chimneys; since these lose heat to the outdoors, it

takes longer to warm them up initially, and it takes more

heat to keep them warm, especially when temperatures

are very low outdoors.

WARNING: OPERATE YOUR DUTCHWEST CON-

VECTION HEATER ONLY WITH THE DOORS FULLY

CLOSED EXCEPT WHEN REFUELING.

THIS STOVE IS HOT WHILE IN OPERATION! KEEP

CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY.

CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.

Most installations do not require a large amount of

combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.

Do not attempt to increase the ﬁring rate of your heater

by altering the air control adjustment range outlined in

these directions.

Break-in Fires

If your stove is new or has new cast iron replacement

parts, “season” the new cast iron with a few break-in

ﬁres. Follow Steps 1-3 below. Then let the ﬁre burn

out. Do not close the damper. Maintain a small but not

smoky ﬁre by adjusting the air control. After the break-

in ﬁres, continue with Step 4.

In some newer homes that are well insulated and

weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufﬁcient

air in the house. In such instances, an open window

near the stove on the windward side of the house (side

against which the wind is blowing) will provide the fresh

air needed. Another solution is to equip the stove with

an Outside Air Kit, available from your local dealer.

The stove’s paint and cement will emit a slight odor

as these materials cure during the ﬁrst few ﬁres. You

may wish to provide extra ventilation near the stove by

partially opening a door or window until the odor disap-

pears

Use the air control settings indicated in Figure 27 as

a starting point to help determine the best settings for

your installation.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

You’ll soon ﬁnd that this stove is HOT WHILE IN OPER-

ATION! KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNI-

TURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.

Lighting the Fire

Step 1. Open the stove damper. Open the primary air

control fully.

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overﬁring may

cause a house ﬁre, or can result in permanent damage

to the stove. If a part of the stove or the chimney con-

nector glows, you are overﬁring.

Step 2. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove.

Place six or eight ﬁnger-width size pieces of dry kin-

dling on the paper. On the kindling, lay two or three

larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2” (25-50

mm) thick.

Reloading and Reviving the Fire

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START

THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAM-

MABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPTHA, OR

ENGINE OIL.

Reload your stove while it is still hot and there are

plenty of embers to re-kindle the ﬁre quickly. Include

some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to

help the stove regain high temperatures quickly.

Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,

charcoal lighter ﬂuid, or similar liquids to start or

“freshen up” a ﬁre in this heater. Keep all such liquids

well away from the heater while it is in use.

Follow this procedure when you reload the stove:

• Open the damper and move the primary air lever to

the “HIGH” position.

• Open the front door and check the ash level on the

grates and in the ash pan. Clear excess ash from

the grates, particularly at the rear area. Level the

ember bed. Empty the ash pan if necessary.

Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The

ﬁre soon will be well-established and you may gradually

build it up by adding a few sticks at a time of a progres-

sively larger size. For your initial three or four break-in

ﬁres, let the ﬁre burn brightly for a short time, then let it

die out.

NOTE: An especially large, outdoor, or cold chimney

may need to be “primed,” or warmed up, before it will

draw sufﬁciently to start a ﬁre. If this is the case, roll up

a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the

kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,

and close the doors. This should heat the chimney

enough to initiate a draft.

• Replace the ash pan and close the front door.

• Load wood, smaller pieces ﬁrst, and close the load-

ing door.

• Allow the stove to regain its “thermal momentum”

before closing the damper. This may take 15-20

minutes.

• Close the damper and set the air control lever for the

desired heat output.

NOTE: If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your

fuel is well-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel

(smaller pieces ﬁrst), close the door and damper, and

reset the air control within ﬁve minutes.

Once the draft is established, open the front door and

light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light

the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins draw-

ing. Repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the

initial attempt is unsuccessful.

Step 4. Once the ﬁre is burning steadily, continue

adding fuel until a thick bed has been established on

the grate. The bed should be about 2” (50mm) deep

and should cover the throat opening into the secondary

combustion chamber that is located in the lower center

ﬁreback.

Step 5. Once the ember bed is formed, prepare the

stove for high-efﬁciency operation. Load it with fuel, ﬁrst

with smaller splits of wood and then larger ones.

Close the damper and set the air control lever to the

“HIGH” position. Operate the stove for 15-20 minutes at

this maximum air setting to guarantee the new load of

fuel has fully ignited. Once the fuel is burning steadily,

you may adjust the air supply to provide the desired

heat output. Refer back to the air control settings chart

on Page 20.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Safe Ash Handling

Remove Ashes Frequently

Ashes may contain hot coals and must be treated with

extreme care. Ashes should be placed outdoors in a

metal container with a tight-ﬁtting lid. The closed con-

tainer of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible

ﬂoor or on the ground, well away from all combustible

materials, pending ﬁnal disposal. If the ashes are dis-

posed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed,

keep them in the closed container until all cinders have

thoroughly cooled. Note: It may take days for these

coals to stop burning. Wood ash may be used as a

garden fertilizer.

Wear heavy stove gloves when removing ashes. Check

the ash compartment before reloading the stove. If the

ash pan is nearly full, empty the pan. Before replacing

the ash pan, clear away any ash that may have spilled

over the sides and back of the pan.

Empty the ash drawer regularly - typically every one

to three days. The frequency will vary depending on

what kind of wood you use and how hot you run your

stove—the hotter the ﬁre, the more wood you burn, and

the faster ash will accumulate.

CAUTION: Never use a vacuum cleaner to remove

ash from the stove; always remove and dispose of the

ashes properly.

ST805

Fig. 28 Check the ash compartment before reloading the

stove.

ST438

Fig. 29 Hot ashes can be dangerous and must be stored

outdoors on a noncombustible surface in a metal container

with a tight-ﬁtting lid.

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Maintenance

Keep Your Stove Looking New

And Working Its Best

Small Locking

Large Locking Nut

Nut

Pawl

Care of the Cast Iron Surface

An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the

painted cast iron of your Dutchwest Convection Heater

looking new.

Striker

Screw

If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to cool

completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted.

Remove non-painted components such as air controls

or cover them with masking tape. Touch up the stove

with high temperature stove paint available from your

local dealer. Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats

are better than one heavy one.

Door

ST806

Cleaning the Glass

Fig. 30 Door latch adjustment.

You will ﬁnd that most of the carbon deposits on the

glass will burn off regularly during hot ﬁres. You can

wipe ﬂy ash from the glass when hot using a crumpled

piece of dry newspaper. Never use liquid cleaning

agents on hot glass. If you wish to clean the glass

more thoroughly, follow this procedure:

Test and Repair the Door Gaskets

Air leaks can be caused by low spots in the door gas-

kets. To locate such low spots, close each door on a

slip of paper and attempt to pull the paper free. If the

paper slips out without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug

enough at that spot.

• Be sure the glass is completely cool.

• Use a glass cleaner especially made for this pur-

pose.

If the seal cannot be improved by adjusting the door

latch, try shimming the gasket. Pack a small quantity of

cement or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel

beneath the gasket to lift the main gasket and thereby

improve its contact with the door frame.

• Dry the glass completely.

Adjust the Door Latch

The door latches must close tightly to ensure a good

seal between the each door and the stove plates. With

time and use, the door latches will require periodic

adjustment. Follow this procedure: (Fig. 30)

If shimming does not improve the seal, replace the

gasket following these steps:

1. Remove the original gasket by grasping an end and

pulling ﬁrmly.

1. Loosen the small locking nut with an open end

wrench.

2. Wearing safety goggles, use a wire brush or the tip

of a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remain-

ing cement or bits of gasket.

2. Use the allen wrench (included with the stove) to

turn the striker screw clockwise one quarter-turn

and close the door to test the engagement. The

door latch should engage tightly when closed. Make

further adjustments in small increments.

Remove the old gasket by

pulling gently, but ﬁrmly.

3. When the striker screw is properly adjusted, tighten

the small locking nut against the pawl without allow-

ing the striker screw to turn.

ST440

Fig. 31 Door gasket.

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3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newly-

cleaned groove.

4. Lay the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are a

couple inches from the end before you cut it.

5. Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper

as described above. Adjust the gasket in any areas

where an inadequate seal is evident.

Adjusting Bolt

(on underside)

Front of

Stove

All rope-type gasketing used in the Dutchwest Convec-

tion Heater is made of ﬁberglass. The gasket is 3/8”

diameter for front and side doors and the ash door and

3/8” for the top plate. 3/16” gasket is used behind the

glass.

Lock Nut

Anchor Bolt

Damper Rod

Avoid Damaging the Glass Door Panel

ST441

Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking

the glass with a log. Never operate your stove if it has

damaged or broken glass. If you need to replace the

glass, use only replacement glass provided by your lo-

cal Dutchwest dealer.

Fig. 32 Damper adjustment.

Over time, the air control may tighten or loosen. To

adjust the tension on the control, let the stove cool to

room temperature. Open the side-loading door and look

in toward the inner side of the front panel of the stove.

(Fig. 33) Locate the lower hex head bolts (A) on the pri-

mary air manifold rods on either side of the door. Adjust

with a 7/16” wrench.

Damper Adjustment

With time, you may need to adjust the damper link-

age to ensure that the damper plate seals tightly when

closed. Test the damper when the stove is cold. When

turned into the closed position, the damper should be

feel “snug” but not too tight. It will become a little tighter

as the stove heats up. Use a 7/16” socket wrench with

socket extension to adjust the linkage:

Note that the mechanism may tighten slightly as the

stove heats up. Your adjustment should leave the air

control snug, but not overly tight.

1. From inside the stove, ﬁrst loosen and then remove

the two (2) nuts on the threaded rods that secure the

top plate to the inner top of the stove.

Air Manifold

2. Remove the top plate and open the damper.

3. Loosen the adjusting bolt’s lock nut. (Fig. 32)

Adjustment

Screw

4. Loosen the anchor bolt’s lock nut, located on the

underside of the damper.

Air

Control

5. Loosen the anchor bolt a turn or two.

6. Tighten the adjusting bolt.

7. Test the damper. Make further adjustments if neces-

sary.

ST808

Fig. 33 Primary air control adjustment.

8. When ﬁnal adjustment has been made, tighten the

adjusting bolt lock nut, the anchor bolt, and the an-

chor bolt lock nut.

Primary Air Control Adjustment

Simple spring-loaded tabs maintain tension on the

primary air control lever. The air control should be loose

enough for you to easily set its position by hand, but

also snug enough to remain in that position until you

change it.

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Clean the chimney using a specially designed chimney

cleaning brush, the same size and shape as the ﬂue

liner, attached to ﬂexible ﬁberglass rods designed for

this purpose. Run the brush up and down the liner

so that any deposits fall to the bottom of the chimney

where they can be removed through the clean-out door.

Cleaning the Chimney System

The chimney system is composed of the chimney and

the pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. Inspect

the chimney and chimney connector at least twice

monthly, and clean if necessary.

When you ﬁrst begin using the stove, check daily for

creosote — a substance that can look like either thick

tar or black, crisp ﬂakes. Experience will show how

often you need to clean to be safe. The frequency

may even vary during the year. In the colder months

when the hottest ﬁres producing the least creosote are

burned, you may need to clean only every couple of

months. During the warmer months when creosote is

more likely to result from cooler-burning ﬁres, weekly

cleaning may be necessary.

Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sec-

tions, taking them outside, and removing any deposits

with a stiff wire brush. You can use a chimney brush of

correct size to clean chimney connector pipe. Reinstall

the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to

secure the individual sections with three sheet metal

screws per section.

If you are unable to inspect and/or clean the chimney

system yourself, contact your local Dutchwest dealer or

hire a qualiﬁed chimney sweep in your area to do the

job.

At the very least, inspect the chimney connector and

chimney at least once every two months during the

heating season to determine if a buildup of creosote

or soot has occurred. If a signiﬁcant layer of creosote

has accumulated (1/8” [3 mm] or more), or if soot has

accumulated, either should be removed to reduce the

risk of a chimney ﬁre. Failure to keep the chimney and

connector system clean can result in a serious chimney

ﬁre.

Maintenance Schedule

The Stove

DAILY:

• Clear any ash build-up from around the air holes and

combustion ﬂow path in the lower ﬁreback.

• Ashes should be removed before they reach the top

of the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once a

day.

The conditions for a chimney ﬁre develop as follows:

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other

organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture

to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in

the relatively cool chimney ﬂue of a slow-burning ﬁre.

As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the ﬂue

lining. Creosote is ﬂammable and, when ignited, makes

an extremely hot ﬁre within the ﬂue system which can

damage the chimney and overheat adjacent combus-

tible material.

• Keep the area around the stove clear of any com-

bustible materials such as wood, furniture or cloth-

ing.

TWO MONTHS:

• Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.

Gasketing becomes compressed after a period of

time. Adjust handle tightness if necessary.

• Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if

necessary.

To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, re-

member to provide adequate air for combustion and to

strive for small, intense ﬁres rather than large, smolder-

ing ones.

ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:

• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.

• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with a

moisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to

keep the interior of the stove dry.

You can never be too safe. Contact your local ﬁre

authority for information on what to do in the event of

a chimney ﬁre, and have a clearly understood plan on

how to handle one.

• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or

pipe heat shields if your stove is equipped with them.

Clean surfaces are better heat reﬂectors than dirty

surfaces.

Inspect Regularly, Clean As Required

Inspect the chimney and chimney connector twice

monthly and clean if necessary. Let the stove cool

completely before you inspect the chimney. Use a ﬂash-

light and mirror to sight up the ﬂue through the chimney

clean-out door or chimney connector inspection tee. If

no inspection access is available, disconnect the pipe

from the stove.

• Touch up the black paint.

• Inspect for and remove ash build-up behind the com-

bustion package. This should be done in conjunction

with annual cleaning of the chimney connector since

this inspection is most conveniently done through the

ﬂue collar opening. Inspect the passages to either

side of the combustion package (a mirror will be

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helpful) and vacuum away ash using a ﬂexible vacu-

um hose inserted into each passage. Care should be

taken not to damage the white ﬁbrous material in this

rear chamber. (Fig. 34)

The Chimney Connector

TWO WEEKS:

• Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if

necessary.

TWO MONTHS:

• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay

particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney

connector, and the elbows. Clean the system if nec-

essary.

ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:

• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it

outdoors for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak

sections of connector.

• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration. Re-

pairs to a masonry chimney should be made by a

professional mason. Replace damaged sections of

prefabricated chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer

or a chimney sweep can help determine when re-

placement is necessary.

Inspect and

Vacuum Both

Rear Corners

Ash Build-Up

ST876

Fig. 34 Inspect and clean out ash accumulation on either

side of the non-catalytic combustion system.

• Thoroughly clean the chimney.

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Draft Management

Your stove is only one part of a system that includes

the chimney, the operator, the fuel, and the home. The

other parts of the system will affect how well the stove

works. When there is a good match between all the

parts, the system works well.

this makes the steel chimney support a good draft

more quickly than masonry does. Steel chimneys are

not as attractive as masonry, but they are very durable

and generally outperform masonry.

Indoor/ Outdoor Location

Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)

draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter

(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of

the chimney. The greater the temperature difference,

the stronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas rises out

of the chimney, it generates suction that draws air into

the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy ﬁre when the

stove’s air inlets are fully open indicates a weak draft.

A brisk ﬁre, supported only by air entering the stove

through the air inlets, indicates a good draft. The inlets

are passive; they regulate how much air can enter the

stove, but they don’t force air into it.

Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke

warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This

location uses the house as insulation for the ﬂue and

allows some radiant heat release from the ﬂue into the

home. Since an interior chimney doesn’t continuously

lose its heat to the outdoors, less heat from the stove is

required to get it warm and keep it warm.

Flue Sizing

The ﬂue size for a controlled-combustion appliance

should be based on the cross-sectional volume of the

stove ﬂue outlet. In this case, more is deﬁnitely not

better. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if a

stove with a six-inch ﬂue collar (28 square inch area)

is vented into a 10” x 10” ﬂue, the gases will expand to

over three times their original volume. As gases cool

with expansion, draft strength decreases. If an over-

sized ﬂue is also outside the house, the heat it absorbs

will be conducted to the outdoor air and the ﬂue will

remain relatively cool.

The efﬁciency of a modern woodburning appliance,

(in which the amount of air available for combustion is

regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust

gases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics

of your chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior

or exterior, matched or mismatched to the stove outlet,

- determine how quickly it will warm up and how well

it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary to

maintain strong draft and efﬁcient combustion. Here fol-

lows a description of various ﬂue system characteristics

and the related effects on stove performance.

It is common for a masonry ﬂue to be oversized for the

stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm

up and the stove performance will likely be disappoint-

ing. The best solution to an oversize ﬂue problem is

the installation of an insulated steel chimney liner of

the same diameter as the appliance ﬂue outlet. The

liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a

stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice

- although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to

its original volume, the air around the liner will require

time and heat energy to warm up.

Masonry Chimney

Although masonry is the traditional material used for

chimney construction, it can have distinct performance

disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combus-

tion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’

- that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of

time.

The large mass, however, may take a long time to

become hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The

larger the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take

to warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust

gases enough to diminish draft strength. This problem

is worse if the chimney is located outside the home or

if the chimney ﬂue has a cross-sectional volume much

larger than the stove outlet.

Check your local codes. You may be required to install

a ﬂue liner in any oversize or masonry ﬂue.

Pipe & Chimney Layout

Every bend in the ﬂue will act as a brake on the ex-

haust as it ﬂows from the ﬁrebox to the chimney cap.

The ideal pipe and chimney layout is straight up from

the stove through a completely straight chimney. Use

this layout if at all possible as it will promote optimum

stove performance and simplify maintenance.

Steel Chimney

Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a

layer of insulation around the inner ﬂue. This insulation

keeps the smoke warm and protects the surrounding

structure from the high ﬂue temperatures. Because the

insulation is less dense than masonry, the inner steel

liner warms up more quickly than a masonry chimney;

If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate

the elbow about midway between the stove top and

the chimney thimble. This conﬁguration lets the smoke

speed up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the

room for heat transfer, and allows long-term ﬂexibility

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minimize creosote accumulation with an effective chim-

ney design and the use of operational techniques that

encourage good draft and complete combustion.

for installing a different appliance without relocating the

thimble.

There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall

stove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer

runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and

creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for

longer runs.

Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it whenever

accumulation exceeds 1/4”.

Backpufﬁng

Backpufﬁng is a condition that results when the draft is

too weak to pull ﬂue gases out of the chimney system

as fast as the ﬁre generates them. Volatile gases build

up within the ﬁrebox until reaching a density and tem-

perature at which they ignite. With this ignition, you may

hear a mufﬂed popping sound and see a bit of smoke

forced out of the stove.

Single Venting

Your stove requires a dedicated ﬂue. Do not connect

the stove to a ﬂue used by any other appliance. Chim-

ney draft is a natural form of energy and follows the

path of least resistance. If the stove is vented to a ﬂue

that also serves an open ﬁreplace or another appliance,

the draft will also pull air in through those avenues.

This condition is most likely to occur in the Spring or

Fall when moderate outdoor temperatures and low

intensity ﬁres produce weak draft. If your stove back-

puffs, open the damper to let the smoke rise to the ﬂue

more quickly. Also, open the air inlets to induce a livelier

ﬁre and speed airﬂow through the stove. Avoid large

loads of ﬁrewood at one time. You should always see

lively, dancing ﬂames in the ﬁrebox; a lazy, smoky ﬁre is

inefﬁcient and will promote draft problems.

The additional air ﬂow will lower ﬂue temperatures,

reduce draft strength and promote creosote develop-

ment; overall stove performance will suffer. The effect

is similar to that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the

hose. In some extreme instances, the other appliance

can even impose a negative draft and result in a dan-

gerous draft reversal.

Fuel

Draft Testing

Even the best stove installation will not perform well

with poor fuel. If available, always use hardwood that

has been air-dried (“seasoned”) 12-18 months. Soft-

wood burns more rapidly than hardwood and has a high

pitch content that can result in creosote. Decayed wood

of any type has little heat value and should not be used.

An easy way to determine whether your chimney draft

is strong enough is to close the stove damper, wait a

few minutes to let the airﬂow stabilize, and then test

whether you can vary the strength of the ﬁre by swing-

ing the air control open and closed. Results here are

not instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for a

change in the air control setting to have an effect on

the ﬁre. If there is no change, the draft is not yet strong

enough to let you close the damper. You will need to

open it for a while longer and manage the ﬁre with the

air inlet until the draft strengthens.

Unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture con-

tent. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate

moisture before the wood can burn. This signiﬁcantly

reduces the amount of energy available to warm your

home, as well as the intensity of the ﬁre and tempera-

ture of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion and

cool ﬂue temperatures promote creosote formation and

weak draft.

Keep a record of your operating habits and relate them

to their effects on the stove’s function. You’ll be reward-

ed with safe and efﬁcient performance.

You can judge the moisture content of wood by its ap-

pearance and weight or use a commercially available

moisture meter for an exact measurement. Unsea-

soned wood will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also,

look for cracks (“checking”) in the ends of the log that

result from contraction as the wood dries. The longer

and wider the cracks are, the dryer the wood is.

Negative Pressure

Good draft also depends on a sufﬁcient supply of air

to the stove. The chimney can’t pull in more air than is

available to it. Sluggish draft can be caused by a house

that is tight enough to prevent the ready ﬂow of air to

the stove, or by competition between the stove and

other appliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e.,

exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom

fans, etc.

Creosote

Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove

operation, weak draft, or both. It is a tar that results

when unburned gases condense inside the ﬂue sys-

tem at temperatures below 290˚ F. Creosote is volatile

and can generate a chimney ﬁre. All of the installation

characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also

promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you can

If the chimney draws well when all such equipment is

turned off (or sealed, in the case of ﬁreplaces and/or

other stoves), you need to be attentive in timing the use

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

of the other appliances. If you need to crack a nearby

window or door to enable the chimney to pull well, you

should install an outside-air intake to bring combustion

air into the room.

Conclusion

Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art in-

cludes technique; and since installations, homes, and

fuel vary, the stove operator must also vary technique,

(mostly timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over time,

you will become familiar with the features of your par-

ticular installation; you will be able to identify cause and

effect in a variety of seasonal circumstances, and adapt

your operating habits to changing conditions.

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CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, speciﬁcations, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,

without notice.

Dutchwest Convection Heater

Model 2478

Ref. Description

1. Bottom

2478

30002075

30002076

1203560

30002077

30002082

30002083

30002205

30002100

2. Inner Bottom

Primary Air to Inner Bottom Gasket (1/4” Rd Fiberglass)

3. Inner Back

4. Right Side

5. Left Side

6. Outside Air Bracket

7. Fountain Assembly

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Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Convection Heater

Dutchwest Convection Heater (continued)

Models 2478

Ref. Description

2478

8. Brick Support Bracket

9. Shoe Refractory

30000986

30002101

30002286

30002102

30002212

30002272

30002209

30002213

30002222

30002735

30002080

30002203

7000954

Shoe Gasket

10. Lower Fireback Refractory

11. Upper Fireback Refractory

12. Lower Retainer

13. Right End Insulation

14. Right End Refractory

15. Lower Load Door Refractory

16. Primary Air Flap Assembly

17. Inner Top

18. Fireback Retainer

19. Damper

20. Damper Adjuster

21. Damper Crank

7000950

7000951

22. Damper Operating Rod

23. Ash Door

30002274

30002091

30002204

30002085

1203589

24. Ash Lip

25. Front Door

Door Gasket (Front, Ash and Load Doors)

26. Load Door Insulation

30002210

27. Load Door Refractory (to June 2005)

Load Door Refractory II (replaces above)

30002214*

30002437

28. Ceramic Handle w/Lifter (Wood)

30002787

29. Load Door (to June 2005)

30002084*

30002439**

Load Door II (replaces above)

** When using to replace original door, use new refractory and load door insulation

30. Grate

30002092

5004265

30002079

7000969

1203591

30002226

7000G69

5004237

30002097

1203556

30002146

30002086

30002362

5004245

30002280

30002089

30002081

7001117

31. Damper Handle

32. Top

33. Flue Collar

Flue Collar Gasket

34. Outer Back

35. Ash Pan

36. Ashdoor Handle

37. Glass

Glass Gasket

38. Glass Clips

39. Leg

40. Pawl Assembly 3/4” Short Adjuster

41. Front & Side Door Handle

42. Bottom Heat Shield

43. Primar Air Manifold

44. Front

45. Andirons (2)

46. Bracket, Rheostat

47. Pawl Assembly 1” Long Adjuster

30002216

5004025

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LIMITED LIFETIME Warranty

For Dutchwest Non-Catalytic Wood Stove

Limited Lifetime Warranty

5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by

this warranty but is subject to a claim against the com-

mon carrier. Contact the Dutchwest Authorized Dealer

from whom you purchased your stove or CFM Cor-

poration if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate

the stove as this may negate the ability to process the

claim with the carrier).

CFM Corporation warrants that all refractory brick and

material used in this product will be warranted against

deterioration not resulting from physical damage or

overloading of the woodstove for the lifetime of this

product. This coverage includes the components of

the EverBurn System: “shoe, fountain, and ﬁreback.

Coverage is provided only to the original purchaser.

6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not

conform to local building and ﬁre codes or, in their ab-

sence, to the recommendations in our Owners Guide.

7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-

humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porce-

lain enamel ﬁnish. These conditions can cause rusting

of the cast iron beneath the porcelain enamel ﬁnish,

which will cause the porcelain enamel ﬁnish to ﬂake

off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by

a salt air or high-humidity environment.

Limited 3 Year Warranty

All cast iron parts are warranted for a period of three

years against breakage, cracking or burn-through.

Limited 1 Year Warranty

The following parts of the woodburning stove are

warranted to be free of defects in material and work-

manship for a period of one year from the date you

receive it: The handles, glass door panels, door

gasketing and porcelain ﬁnish. Any of these items

found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at

no charge, upon the return of the part with postage

prepaid to a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.

8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance

or update any unit once manufactured.

IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM CORPORATION BE LIABLE

FOR INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.

ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED

WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS,

ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN

WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL

OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.

Any parts repaired or replaced during the limited

warranty period will be warranted under the terms

of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the

remaining term of the original limited warranty or six

(6) months, whichever is longer.

Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of

incidental and consequential damages or limitations on

how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limi-

tations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you

speciﬁc rights and you may have other rights, which vary

from state to state.

Exclusions & Limitations

1. This warranty is non-transferable.

2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove.

Misuse includes overﬁring, which will result if the stove

is used in such a manner as to cause one or more of

the plates to glow red. Overﬁring can be identiﬁed later

by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment

has burned off. Overﬁring in enamel stoves is identi-

ﬁed by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discoloration

of the porcelain enamel ﬁnish. CFM Corporation offers

no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces. Inspect

your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any

damage to the enamel.

How to Obtain Service

If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the

customer should contact a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer

or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct with the

following information:

1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-

chaser

3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as

described in the Owners Guide, nor does it cover a

stove which has been modiﬁed unless authorized by a

CFM Corporation representative in writing. This war-

ranty does not cover damage to the stove caused by

burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood,

or any fuel not recommended in the Owners Guide.

4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by

someone other than a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.

2. Date of Purchase.

3. Serial number from the label on the back

4. Nature of the defect or damage.

5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., instal-

lation, mode of operation when defect was noted.

A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corpo-

ration reserves the right to withhold ﬁnal approval of a

warranty claim pending a visual inspection of the defect

by authorized representatives.

CFM Corporation

2695 Meadowvale Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 8A3

800-668-5323 • www.cfmcorp.com

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