MODEL SB1224
12" 3-JAW SCROLL CHUCK
Instruction Sheet
PHONE: (360) 734-1540 • www.southbendlathe.com
Introduction
This chuck uses a direct-mount camlock system
to attach to the spindle. Direct-mount chucks
provide a number of advantages over chucks that
require a back plate for mounting.
Incorrect use of this tool
can result in death or
serious injury. For your
own safety, read and
understand this entire
document before using.
The main benefit is a larger maximum working
area between the chuck jaws and tailstock. The
increased space is created by the absence of a
back plate between the chuck and spindle.
Specifications
Another benefit is that direct-mount chucks
require less initial setup time because the
machinist is not required to machine a back plate
Mounting Type......... Direct Mount D1-8 Camlock
Chuck Outer Diameter ...................12.2" (310mm)
Chuck Bore Diameter .....................4.05" (103mm)
OD Clamping Range ...... 0.12"–4.65" (15–300mm)
ID Clamping Range ....... 1.78"–4.61" (90–290mm)
Static Clamping Force .............................. 9890 lbs
Maximum Chuck Key Torque .................137 ft/lbs
*Maximum Speed.................................. 1800 RPM
Chuck Jaw M12 Cap Screw Torque.......78.8 ft/lbs
Rear Chuck M12 Cap Screw Torque......78.8 ft/lbs
Chuck Weight.............................................. 105 lbs
Country of Origin....................................... Taiwan
Reversible Top Jaws
Two-Piece Jaws
Two-Piece
Center
Split
Chuck
*
Even if a tailstock and steady rest are used,
the maximum speed rating may not be
SAFELY reached with certain workpieces.
The workpiece must be balanced and
appropriately sized for the chuck and lathe,
and the chuck must be properly maintained
to achieve maximum clamping force. As
spindle speeds increase, centrifugal force
also increases. If centrifugal force becomes
too great, the workpiece can be thrown from
the chuck with deadly force. Always use good
judgment with each setup!
Camlock
Direct
Rear
Studs
Mount
Back
Chuck Cap
Screws
Threaded
Pinion
Retaining
Pins
Figure 1. Main features of this chuck.
Copyright © April, 2011 by South Bend Lathe Co.
WARNING: No portion of this manual may be reproduced without written approval.
#CR13937 Printed in Taiwan
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Mfg. Since 1/11
Model SB1224
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Camlock Stud
Installation
Chuck Installation &
Removal Devices
This section provides information about how to
install and adjust the camlock studs so the chuck
properly mounts to the spindle.
A dropped chuck can cause amputation,
serious crushing injuries, or property damage.
Always use a lifting, support, or protective
device to reduce this risk when installing or
removing a chuck.
Note: You can skip this section if the camlock
studs are already installed.
To install the camlock studs:
1. Lightly oil the threads of each stud.
Because chucks are heavy and often awkward to
hold, some kind of lifting, support, or protective
device should be used during installation or
removal. The weight and size of the chuck will
determine the appropriate device to use (refer to
the following figure for examples).
2. Thread the studs into the chuck until the
datum line is flush with or just above the
surface of the chuck, and the alignment
groove is positioned over the hole.
SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT CHUCKS
Datum Line
Flush with Chuck
Surface
Alignment
Groove
Plywood Protection
Plate for Chucks
Installed by Hand
Cap
Screw
MEDIUM-SIZE, HEAVY CHUCKS
Plywood & 2x4
Chuck Cradle
Solid Block
Chuck Cradle
Figure 2. Camlock stud installation.
Way Slot
Jaw Slot
3. Install a cap screw in the hole next to each
stud. These cap screws prevent the studs
from rotating so they properly engage with
the camlock during installation.
Plywood Chuck Cradle
(Straight Cuts)
Plywood Chuck Cradle
(Curved Cuts)
Note: It is normal for studs to have a small
amount of play or looseness after installing
and tightening the cap screws.
LARGE, VERY HEAVY CHUCKS
Pre-Threaded Hole
for Lifting Eye
Fabricated Steel
Lifting Hook
Figure 3. Examples of common devices used during
chuck installation and removal.
-3-
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5. Incrementally tighten the camlocks in a
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Chuck Installation
criss-cross or star pattern to ensure that the
chuck seats evenly against the spindle.
To ensure accurate work, it is extremely
important to make sure the spindle nose and
chuck mating surfaces/tapers are clean. Even
a small amount of lint or debris can affect
accuracy.
6. When the chuck is fully seated and all the
camlocks are tight, verify that the cam line
is between the two "V" marks on the spindle
nose, as shown in the following figure.
The chuck is properly installed when all
camlocks are tight, the spindle and chuck tapers
firmly lock together, and the back of chuck is
firmly seated against the face of the spindle all
the way around—without any gaps.
To install the chuck:
1. DISCONNECT LATHE FROM POWER!
2. Use an appropriate lifting, support, or
protective device to protect the ways and
support the chuck.
Camlock between “V”s
Figure 5. Cam line positioned between the "V" marks
after the camlocks are fully tightened.
3. Clean and lightly oil the camlock studs, then
thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the
spindle and chuck.
— If the cam line is NOT between the "V"
marks when the camlock is tight, the stud
may be installed at the incorrect height.
To fix this, adjust the stud height as
4. Install the chuck by inserting the camlock
studs straight into the spindle cam holes.
shown in the following figure. Make sure
to re-install the stud cap screw afterward.
Important: Avoid inserting the studs by
pivoting them in from an angle or rotating
the spindle. This can damage studs or bores.
— If adjusting stud height does not correct
the problem, try swapping stud positions
on the chuck.
CORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
INCORRECT
Stud Too High:
Turn In
Stud Too Low:
Turn Out
One-Turn
One-Turn
Figure 4. Inserting camlock studs into spindle bores.
Figure 6. Correcting an improperly installed stud.
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Model SB1224
I N S T R U C T I O N S
7. Verify that the chuck fits the spindle
properly by checking for any gaps between
the mating surfaces.
Chuck Removal
To remove the chuck:
1. DISCONNECT LATHE FROM POWER!
— If there are no gaps, proceed to Step 9.
2. Use an appropriate lifting, support, or
protective device to protect the ways and
support the chuck.
— If there is a gap, remove the chuck, re-
clean the mating surfaces carefully, and
re-install. If the problem persists, refer to
Troubleshooting.
3. Loosen the camlocks by turning the key
counterclockwise until the cam lines are
aligned with the mark on the spindle nose.
8. Verify that the chuck/spindle tapers
are seating firmly together by removing
the chuck, per the Chuck Removal
instructions, and paying close attention to
how easily the tapers release.
Tip: Camlocks can become very tight. A cheater
pipe may be used as a last resort to add
leverage when loosening. After loosening,
you may need to wiggle the chuck key in the
camlock to fully disengage the stud.
— If it was necessary to bump the chuck or
use a mallet to release the tapers, then
they are seating together properly.
Cam line aligned with spindle mark
— If the tapers released easily with little
intervention, they are not seating together
firmly as required. Remove the chuck, re-
clean the mating surfaces carefully, and
re-install. If the problem persists, refer to
Troubleshooting.
Registration Marks
Lightly stamp registration marks across the
mating seams of chuck components. These marks
will help you re-install the chuck in the same
position after removal, which ensures consistent
chuck balance and turning results, and allows
the same camlocks and studs to operate together
for consistent locking and unlocking.
Figure 8. Camlock is fully loosened when the cam line
is aligned with the spindle mark.
4. Using a dead blow hammer or other
soft mallet, lightly tap around the outer
circumference of the chuck body to loosen it
from the spindle.
Spindle & Chuck
5. Remove the chuck from the spindle, using
a light rocking motion to carefully slide the
studs out of the bores.
Camlock
Spindle
Registration Marks
Chuck
Halves
— If the chuck does not immediately come
off, rotate it approximately 60˚ and tap
it again. Make sure all the marks on the
cams and spindle are in proper alignment
Marks
2-Piece
for Chuck
Reassembly
Direct Mount
Camlock Chuck
Figure 7. Registration mark locations.
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I N S T R U C T I O N S
Scroll Chuck Clamping Chuck Jaw Reversal
This scroll-type chuck has an internal scroll-gear
This chuck has 2-piece jaws that consist of a
that moves all jaws in unison when adjusted with top jaw and a master jaw. The top jaw can be
the chuck key. This chuck will hold cylindrical
parts on-center with the axis of spindle rotation
and can be rotated at high speeds if the
removed, rotated 180°, and re-installed in the
reverse position for additional work-holding
options. When reversing the top jaws, always
keep them matched with their original master
jaw to ensure the best fit.
workpiece is properly clamped and balanced.
Never mix jaw types or positions to
accommodate an odd-shaped workpiece.
The chuck will spin out of balance and
may throw the workpiece! Instead, use an
independent jaw chuck or a faceplate.
To reverse 2-piece jaws:
1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Remove the cap screws that secure the top
jaw to the master (bottom) jaw.
Insufficient
Safer Inside
Jaw Use
Jaw Clamping
3. Remove the top jaw, rotate it 180°, then re-
install it with the longest cap screw in the
tallest portion of the jaw.
Bar Stock
Unstable
4. Repeat Steps 2–3 with each remaining jaw
(we recommend only reversing one jaw at a
time to keep all original parts together).
Workpiece
Unsafe Jaw Position and
Safer Outside
Jaw Use
Poor Scroll Gear Engagement
Poor
Grip
Shallow
Bar Stock
Short Cap Screw
Long Cap Screw
Unstable
Workpiece
Rotate Top
Jaw 180º
Unsafe Inside
Jaw Use
Safer Outside
Jaw Use
Shallow
Bar Stock
Unsafe Jaw Position and
Figure 10. Reversing the chuck jaws.
Poor Scroll Gear Engagement
Safer Inside
Jaw Use
Unsafe Jaw Position
Remove all tools before
turning lathe ON. Thrown
tools can cause serious
injury or death to operator
or bystanders.
Cylinder
Poor Scroll
Gear Engagement
Figure 9. Jaw selection and workpiece holding.
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Model SB1224
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Maintenance
Chuck Service
A chuck can only achieve its maximum clamping
Proper chuck service requires full disassembly,
force when its internal components are clean and cleaning, and lubrication. Perform this service
well lubricated.
every six months, or more frequently if the chuck
is exposed to dirty work environments, heavy
workloads, or cutting fluid.
During operation, centrifugal force displaces
and thins the lubricant inside the chuck, forcing
it out over time. If the chuck is exposed to
To avoid damage when servicing the chuck:
cutting fluid, this process happens even faster. If
maintenance is not followed daily, the chuck will
lose its internal lubrication and collect cutting
fluid sludge, rust, and metal chips—which can
cut the maximum chuck clamping force in half!
•
Only clamp chuck parts in a vise equipped
with soft jaws or wood/aluminum blocks.
•
•
Never use an open flame on chuck parts!
Never strike the chuck with a steel hammer.
Instead use a brass hammer or soft mallet.
A chuck with reduced clamping force has a much
higher risk of losing its grip during operation and
throwing the workpiece with deadly force.
•
•
Never apply force to stuck components if
you are unsure about how they are fastened
together. Refer to the instructions.
Daily Maintenance
•
•
Check/correct loose mounting bolts.
Use a vacuum, rag, or brush to clean the
chuck after use.
When separating or removing mated
components, do not attempt to pry or wedge
them apart. Instead, patiently tap them at
various locations with a brass hammer or
mallet while rotating and pulling on them.
•
Wipe down the outside of the chuck with a
light machine oil or way oil.
Regular Lubrication
•
If the scroll gear or retainer is stuck, soak
parts in penetrating oil or solvent (overnight
if needed) to break down grease suction, then
carefully rotate, lift, and tap it loose.
Recommended Lubricant
Chuck Grease ............................. Bison #7-799-025
(or Equiv. Moly-Disulphide Chuck Grease)
Oil ........................South Bend Way Oil #SB1365
Items Needed
Qty
Lubricate the scroll thread and jaw slides
regularly, using either chuck grease or way oil.
To lubricate, remove and clean the jaws, clean
chips off the scroll gear if necessary, then re-
install the jaws and apply lubricant to the scroll
gear and jaw sliding surfaces. Move the jaws in
and out to distribute the lubricant.
Hex Wrench Set (Metric)......................................1
High Resolution Caliper 8"...................................1
Crocus Cloth & Wire Brush............................ 1 Ea
Diamond Hone or Dressing Stones ...........Various
Files & Thread Chasing Tools...................Various
Mineral Spirits and Cotton Rags ...... As Required
Calibrated Torque Wrench ..................................1
Stiff 1" Brush for Applying Grease ......................1
Oil ........................South Bend Way Oil #SB1365
Chuck Grease ............................. Bison #7-799-025
(or Equiv. Moly-Disulphide Chuck Grease)
Chuck grease provides superior lubrication and
clamping force; its drawback is that chips easily
stick to it and get drawn into the chuck, leading
to binding and reduced clamping force.
Way oil is a good alternative lubricant to reduce
the amount of chips that stick to the chuck;
its drawback is a reduction of clamping force,
making it a poor choice for heavy clamping loads.
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I N S T R U C T I O N S
Disassembly
1. Verify that registration marks have been
made on the chuck and spindle. (Refer to
Registration Marks section for details.)
Inspection & Dressing
Inspect all components carefully for burrs, wear,
scoring, bent parts, cracks, and thread damage.
Carefully inspect the chuck jaw clamping surface
for tapered wear from front to back. For minor
wear, jaw regrinding may be more economical
than jaw replacement. If the taper is heavy,
or grip, or work holding accuracy is a problem,
chuck replacement is likely required.
2. Inspect the jaws and their slots to make sure
they have matching numbers or marks. If
none are found, stamp or scribe your own
before continuing. (During re-assembly, jaws
must be installed in the same slots.)
3. Use the chuck key to back out and remove
Burrs, dings, flakes, high spots, or galled
surfaces can usually be removed by lightly
dressing them away with diamond lapping
boards or honing stones with lapping oil. Be
sure not to change part dimensions while
dressing surfaces. Thread damage can usually be
corrected with files and thread chasing tools.
the chuck jaws.
4. Unthread all chuck fasteners and separate
the chuck halves, then remove the remaining
chuck components to completely disassemble
the chuck (see below).
If any parts are overly worn, bent, cracked,
or otherwise damaged, they must be replaced
(if available). Never attempt to repair chuck
components by welding them. If damaged parts
are unavailable, replace the chuck. Continuing
to use a chuck with damaged components will
increase the risk of accidental death or serious
injury. Do not risk it!
Rear
Pinion
and
Chuck Body
and Fasteners
Retaining Pin
Scroll Gear
Note: Some Features &
Fasteners are Excluded
for Clarity
Front
Chuck Body
If replacing fasteners, make sure to use the same
hardness or grade as the original fasteners that
Figure 11. Chuck components.
Cleaning
Reassembly
When cleaning chuck components, make sure to
remove all grease, sludge, and metal particles
using a brush and clear-type mineral spirits
or standard paint thinner. Avoid using white-
colored mineral spirits, acetone, brake parts
cleaner, gasoline, or acids. If an incorrect solvent
is used, stains, additives, acids, or contaminants
can be left behind as a corrosive coating. After
cleaning and drying parts, be sure to wipe down
parts with an oiled rag to prevent rust.
Brush all internal chuck components with a
generous coat of chuck grease, but do not pack
the chuck full of grease. Re-assemble components
in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure to
follow the Chuck Jaw Installation instructions
to ensure that the jaws are installed correctly.
Make sure you only use approved chuck
lubricants. Some lubricants can stain your
chuck or have unintended reactions with cutting
fluid, which will destroy their ability to properly
lubricate the chuck.
Light rust can be removed in a blast cabinet
with soda blasting media. For heavy rust, have
the chuck components “hot tanked” at a local
automotive machine shop (remove all non-ferrous
items first or they may dissolve).
To avoid stripping threads or cracking a casting,
never use fasteners to draw components together
and avoid using impact tools. Instead, be patient
and properly seat the mating parts, then use
hand tools and a recently calibrated torque
wrench to tighten fasteners.
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Model SB1224
I N S T R U C T I O N S
2. Insert jaw #1 into jaw guide #1, and hold the
Chuck Jaw Installation
jaw against the scroll-gear.
When installing the jaws on a scroll chuck, it
is important to make sure they are installed
correctly. Incorrect installation will result in
jaws that do not converge evenly and are unable
to securely clamp a workpiece.
3. Rotate the chuck key clockwise one turn to
engage the tip of the scroll-gear lead thread
into the jaw. Pull the jaw; it should be locked
into the jaw guide.
4. Install the remaining jaws in numerical
To install chuck jaws:
order, in the same manner.
1. Rotate the chuck key clockwise until you
see the tip of the scroll-gear lead thread just
begin to enter jaw guide #1.
— If installed correctly, the jaws will
converge evenly at the center of the chuck.
— If the jaws do not converge evenly, remove
them. Make sure the numbers of the jaws
and jaw guides match, then re-install the
jaws and make sure each one engages
with the scroll-gear lead thread during its
Lead Thread
1
(Locations
May Vary)
1
Figure 12. Installing jaw #1.
-9-
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I N S T R U C T I O N S
Troubleshooting
Symptom
Possible Cause
Possible Solution
The chuck key
is hard to turn,
or it binds
at some jaw
locations.
1. Jaws poorly positioned.
1. Re-install jaws in correct order and position.
2. Lack of lubrication; rust, burrs, metal
2. Disassemble, de-burr, clean, and re-lubricate chuck
chips, or contaminants inside chuck.
with chuck grease.
3. Jaw guides, scroll gear, or pinion
3. Replace damaged parts, or replace chuck.
distorted, worn, or broken.
Chuck mounts
or seats
1. Chuck is loose or cocked on spindle; gap
1. Remove chuck then clean and dress all mating
between spindle/chuck mating.
surfaces of spindle & chuck.
incorrectly;
gap exists
between chuck
and spindle;
chuck vibrates
during
operation
without a
workpiece
installed.
2. Chuck is too large for lathe.
3. Lathe spindle is loose.
2. Install smaller lathe chuck so spindle and bearings
will not become overloaded and vibrate.
3. Check and adjust lathe spindle end-play and
bearing preload.
4. Camlock studs are at fault.
4. Remove chuck and inspect/adjust/replace camlock
studs for wear or damage as required. Re-install
chuck with registration marks aligned.
5. Lathe spindle is loose.
5. Check and adjust lathe spindle end-play and
bearing preload. Adjust as required.
6 . Poor chuck/spindle taper fit causes
radial or axil runout from chuck shifting
when camlocks are tightened.
6 . Isolate component at fault by installing a different
chuck. If problem persists, lathe spindle may be at
fault. If problem goes away, chuck may be at fault.
7. Chuck is distorted or cracked.
7. Replace chuck.
Workpiece
has runout;
clamping
accuracy or
repeatability is
poor; turning
results are
poor.
1. Workpiece is too long for jaw clamping
1. Use tailstock, rests, and outboard spindle support;
only.
use slower spindle speeds.
2. Workpiece is improperly clamped or is
2. Remove jaws, then clean, de-burr, and re-install.
misaligned.
3. Jaws are positioned in the wrong jaw
3. Re-install jaws in their correct guides.
guides.
4. Top jaws are loose or improperly seated
4. Remove jaws, clean jaw teeth and guides, then re-
in their master jaws.
install jaws using the correct torque for fasteners.
5. Chuck is loose; mounting is off center or
5. Refer to troubleshooting for chuck mounting
improperly seated.
incorrectly.
6. Lathe spindle, tailstock, or cross slide is
6. Align lathe components.
misaligned with lathe bed.
7. Lathe bed is twisted.
7. Place shims under lathe to level bed ways.
The workpiece
slips in the
jaws.
1. Workpiece requires additional support
1. Use tailstock, rests, and outboard spindle support.
in addition to chuck jaws.
Use slower spindle speed.
2. Incorrect jaw or workpiece clamping
2. Re-position jaws and workpiece for maximum scroll
gear and jaw engagement. Verify that workpiece is
not too large or heavy for chuck.
position.
3. Two-piece jaw is loose; top jaw
3. Remove jaws, clean mounting surfaces, and re-
improperly seated in master jaw.
install with the correct cap screw torque.
4. Insufficient pinion and scroll gear
4. Lubricate chuck, and re-tighten the chuck key.
torque.
5. Jaws or jaw screws bind before full
5. Service the chuck as described in this document.
clamping force is achieved.
6. Cutting overload.
6. Reduce cutting depth or feed rate.
7. Jaw teeth worn; 2-piece jaw is loose.
7. Have jaws reground, replace jaws, or replace chuck.
-10-
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Model SB1224
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Parts Breakdown
15
9
7
5
8
16
10
12
1
17
6
2
13
4
14
3
REF PART #
DESCRIPTION
REF PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
PSB1224001
FRONT CHUCK BODY
SCROLL GEAR
TOP JAW
MASTER JAW
PINION GEAR
REAR CHUCK BODY
CHUCK WRENCH
PINION RETAINING PIN
9
PCAP171M
PCAP65M
PCAP73M
PAW10M
CAMLOCK STUD
2
3
4
5
6
7
PSB1224002
PSB1224003
PSB1224004
PSB1224005
PSB1224006
PSB1224007
PSB1224008
10
12
13
14
15
16
17
CAP SCREW M10-1.5 X 70
CAP SCREW M12-1.75 X 50
HEX WRENCH 10MM
CAP SCREW M12-1.75 X 25
CAP SCREW M8-1.25 X 14
COMPRESSION SPRING
GREASE FITTING
PCAP36M
PCAP155M
PSB1224016
PSB1224017
8
Please Note: We included this parts breakdown for service purposes only. Since many of the parts shown are machined to
each individual chuck, they may not be available as replacement items.
-11-
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Model SB1224
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I N S T R U C T I O N S
Other Great Items from South Bend
4-Jaw Independent Chucks
Quick Change Tool Post Sets
SB1405 Set 1 for 9" - 12" Swing Lathe
SB1406 Set 2 for 10" - 110" Swing Lathe
SB1407 Set 3 for 13" - 18" Swing Lathe
SB1408 Set 4 for 14" - 20" Swing Lathe
SB1232—14" 4-Jaw Independent Direct
Mount D1-8 Chuck
SB1214—12" 4-Jaw Independent Plain Back
Chuck
SB1404—121⁄2" Backplate D1-8 (for SB1214)
South Bend chucks are made for high precision
work with tight tolerances to satisfy the most
demanding machinists out there! Constructed of
fine grain cast iron with a super finish.
These are probably the smoothest and hardest
locking tool posts on the market today. Wedge-
locking design prevents tool holder from shifting
during the heaviest of cuts. The unique and
ergonomic locking handle was designed by
South Bend engineers to prevent fatigue during
frequent tool changes.
Set Includes:
• Turning Tool Holder
• Turing/Boring Holder
• Boring Bar Holder
• Parting Blade Holder
• Knurl/Facing Holder
• Tool Post w/ T-nut
SB1404
SB1232
SB1214
South Bend Shop Clocks
SB1298—SBL Bench Lathe Shop Clock
SB1299—SBL Toolroom Lathe Shop Clock
SB1300—SBL Lathe with Man
These fine traditional shop clocks are constructed
with a metal antique-finished frame. They are
easy to read from a distance and measure 14"
in diameter. Pictures just don't do them justice.
They are very nice quality clocks and perfect for
the South Bend Lathe aficionado.
Way Oil
SB1365 Way Oil (12 oz)
Engineered for the high
pressure exerted on horizontal
or vertical ways and slides.
Protects against rust and
corrosion. Ensures stick-
free, smooth motion which
maximizes finishes and
extends the life of your
machine. Won’t gum up! 12 oz.
AMGA#2 (ISO 68 Equivalent)
SB1298
SB1299
SB1300
-12-
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