Shopsmith Indoor Furnishings 555970 User Manual

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

MARK V

MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................2

SAFETY ......................................................................................................................................3

TYPES OF ROUTER BITS .........................................................................................................8

TERMS TO KNOW ...................................................................................................................10

OVERARM ROUTER ASSEMBLY ........................................................................................... 11

ALIGNMENT AND ADJUSTMENT ...........................................................................................16

OVERARM PIN ROUTING OPERATIONS...............................................................................18

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR BOTH TYPES OF OVERARM ROUTING ..............................18

ROUTER DUPLICATION USING SHOP MADE FIXTURES....................................................20

CONVENTIONAL ROUTING OPERATIONS WITH THE OVERARM ROUTER .....................30

CARING FOR YOUR SHOPSMITH OVERARM PIN ROUTER ...............................................39

MAINTENANCE ........................................................................................................................41

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE .................................................................................................42

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

is traced over the table pin, creating a fin-

ished piece that’s exactly the same size and

shape as the groove in your template or

fixture

SAFETY

WARNING

• Remove the workpiece, replace with a new

blank and repeat the process above . . . as

many times as you like

Read this safety section and complete

the Assembly procedures BEFORE op-

erating your Shopsmith Overarm Pin

Once you’ve made a template or fixture, cut

out as many parts as you like, then set the Router

template aside until the next time you want

to make more of the same project. It will be

ready when you are.

Shopsmith’s MARK V-mounted Pin Router

offers many built-in safety features. How-

ever, the effectiveness of these features de-

pends on you. Power tool safety requires

good common sense, and misuse of this

tool can cause serious injury.

We know that you’re eager to get started us-

ing your Overarm Router, but please take the

time to read this manual before you begin.

Then keep it handy for future reference.

To protect yourself from injury:

OVERARM ROUTER

SPECIFICATIONS:

• READ, UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW

ALL the information in this Owners

Manual.

Maximum router motor HP.......................... 3 hp

• Also, READ, UNDERSTAND AND FOL-

LOW ALL the information in the Own-

ers Manual that came with your router

motor.

Diameters of router motors

accepted (round motors only)................. 2-1/2" to 4"

Throat depth (router bit

centerpoint to Way Tubes)* .........10-1/2" to 18-1/2"†

• READ, UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW

ALL the information in the MARK V

Owners Manual.

Vertical motor travel (lever-controlled)............ 3-1/2"

Maximum workpiece thickness ............. Approx 11"‡

Worktable size

(laminate-covered MDF) .......18-1/2" d x 28" w x 3/4"

Fence size (2) .......................... 13-1/4" w x 1-1/4" h

Guide pin diameters furnished ...... 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"

Starter pin diameter furnished .......................... 1/4"

Maximum router bit diameter (with insert) ...... 1-3/8"

Maximum router bit diameter (without insert) ....... 2"

Dust port diameter ....................................... 2-1/4"

* With a 3-1/2" diameter router motor. Distances will

vary, depending on router motor diameter.

† Maximum dimensions, based on which set of four

Arm mounting holes are used

‡ Varies, depending on router motor and bit used

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

HEARING PROTECTION

Throughout this manual, we list WARN-

INGS, CAUTIONS, and NOTES. We advise

that when you come to one of these listings,

please read and understand it fully. Their

meanings are:

Prolonged exposure to high intensity noise

from high speed power tools will damage

your hearing.

• Hearing protectors screen out certain fre-

quencies and noise levels that can dam-

age your hearing. For that reason, we

recommend that you ALWAYS wear hear-

ing protection when using your Overarm

Pin Router.

WARNING

A WARNING is given when failure to

follow the directions is likely to result

in injury, loss of limb, or life.

GUARDING FOR ROUTING

Most shop accidents happen to woodwork-

ers who fail to follow instructions, or fail to

use guards and safety devices. Although

proper use of guards and safety devices of-

ten requires additional setup, the protection

for you and your family is well worth the

effort.

CAUTION

A CAUTION is given when failure to fol-

low the directions is likely to result in

damage to the equipment.

NOTE

DRESS

A NOTE is used to highlight an important

procedure, practice or condition.

Loose hair and clothing which could be en-

tangled in rotating bits are very hazardous.

• Tuck long hair under a hat or tie it up. Do

not wear ties, gloves, loose clothing, rings

or other jewelry. Roll sleeves up above

your elbows.

EYE PROTECTION

Always wear eye protection when you use

power tools. Use goggles, safety glasses or a

face shield to protect your eyes.

ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS

• Goggles completely surround and protect

your eyes. Many goggles will also fit over

regular glasses. Be sure your goggles fit

closely, but comfortably.

Follow the electrical requirements that ap-

pear in the Owners Manual that came with

your router. Do not overload your electrical

circuits.

• Safety glasses don’t fog as easily as

goggles and can be worn all the time.

Regular glasses normally have only im-

pact resistant lenses. They are not safety

glasses.

ROUTER MOTOR — OVERARM

Use the following specifications required to

mount a router in the OVERARM:

• A face shield protects your entire face, not

just your eyes.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

NOTE

MOUNTING ROUTER BITS

• Turn off and unplug the router motor be-

fore mounting router bits.

Customer Service representatives and Store

personnel will help you select the proper

motor.

• Follow the recommendations of the router

motor manufacturer as to the sizes and

types of router bits to use.

• Use only UL Approved router motors.

• Make sure the router bit is secured prop-

erly in the collet. Loose bits could work

free and cause serious injury. Insert the bit

all the way into the collet and retract it

about 1/8" to avoid the transition between

shank and cutter.

• Motor housing must be round, not square,

for router arm.

• Motor must be 2-1/2" to 4" in diameter.

• Motor power cord must be located so it

comes out the top section of the router.

• Motor power cord should be securely at-

tached to the top of the Arm during op-

eration with tape or rubber bands to keep

it safely out of your way during routing.

• If your using an arbor-style bit with inter-

changeable cutters, be sure the cutting

edge is facing to the left when mounted

on the arbor.

• Switch must be located so that it can be

positioned toward the front of the Over-

arm Router and be easily accessible dur-

ing operations.

• Listen for chatter or signs of looseness at

start-up. If you hear, see or suspect prob-

lems, stop the tool immediately, unplug it,

and check the tool thoroughly. Correct any

problem before proceeding. If you are un-

able to locate the problem, you can con-

tact your Shopsmith Service Representa-

tive or store personnel for advice. Never

operate the Overarm Router if it is not

functioning properly.

• You must be able to remove the handles

and base from the motor without remov-

ing the switch.

• Motor must properly mount on the Over-

arm Router so that base locating pins on

the motor housing do not interfere with

the router motor holding clamps.

• Keep bits clean, maintained and sharp.

• Motor must not exceed 3 hp.

• Don’t try to make your own collet adapter

to hold different sized bits. Balance is im-

portant at high speeds, so always buy

appropriately sized collets.

SAWDUST AND CHIPS

Sawdust and chips can be a fire hazard and

breathing sawdust can be a health hazard.

The sawdust from some woods is toxic. To

help protect yourself from sawdust:

GENERAL SAFETY RULES

FOR POWER TOOLS

• Know your power tool. Read the owners

manual. Learn its application and limi-

tations as well as the specific potential

hazards peculiar to this tool.

• Attach your Overarm Pin Router to a dust

collection system to help capture flying

chips and debris.

• Or wear a close-fitting dust mask. Clean

or replace the filters in the mask regularly.

Also, open a window or use a fan to ven-

tilate your shop.

• Ground all tools (unless double insu-

lated). If tool is equipped with an ap-

proved 3-conductor cord and a 3-prong

grounding type plug to fit the proper

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

grounding type receptacle, the green con- • Secure workpieces. Use clamps, fixtures,

ductor in the cord is the grounding wire.

Never connect the green wire to a live

terminal.

and other devices to hold workpieces

when practical. It’s safer than using your

hands and it frees your hands to operate

the tool.

• Wear proper eye and ear protection. Also,

wear a dust mask.

• Do not overreach. Keep proper footing

and balance at all times.

• Keep guards in place. Always keep

guards in working order and in proper • Turn off the tool and wait until it comes

alignment and adjustment. Most injuries

occur on unguarded power tools.

to a complete stop before removing

workpieces and scraps.

• Remove adjusting keys and wrenches.

• Do not try to stop the tool by grabbing

the workpiece or any part of the tool.

Turn off the tool and let it come to a com-

plete stop by itself.

• Wear proper apparel. Do not wear loose

clothing, ties, gloves, rings or other jew-

elry. Roll sleeves up above your elbows,

wear nonslip footwear, and tuck long • Do not leave the tool running unat-

hair under a hat.

tended. Turn power off. Don’t leave tool

until it comes to a complete stop.

• Do not operate power tools if you are

tired, taking medication, or under the in- • Avoid unintentional starting. Make sure

fluence of alcohol or drugs.

the switch is in the “off” position before

plugging in or unplugging the tool.

• Avoid dangerous environments. Don’t

use power tools in damp, wet or explo- • Disconnect tools. Turn off and unplug

sive atmospheres.

tools before changing accessories and set-

ups, making adjustments, and perform-

ing maintenance and repair.

• Keep work areas well lit, clean, and free

from clutter.

• Do not stand or lean on the tool. You

could fall onto the tool or it could tip

over injuring you and/or damaging the

tool.

• Do not force the tool. It will do the job

better and safer at the rate for which it

was designed.

• Use the right tool. Don’t force a tool or

accessory to do a job for which it is not

designed.

• Maintain tools. Keep parts and tools

sharp, clean and maintained according to

the Owners Manual.

• For direction of feed — ALWAYS feed the

workpiece into the cutter against the ro-

tation of the cutter. NEVER feed the

workpiece into the cutter with the rota-

tion of the cutter.

• Make your workshop childproof. Use

padlocks, master switches or remove

starter keys.

• Keep children away. All visitors should

stay a safe distance from power tools, and

wear eye and ear protection.

• Check damaged parts. A damaged guard

or part should be properly repaired or re-

placed before further use. If a strange • Do not permit anyone who is inexperi-

noise or vibration develops, immediately

turn off the power, unplug the machine

and correct the problem. Never operate

a power tool that is not functioning

properly.

enced to use your power tools without

supervision.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

wood. Limit depth-of-cut to 3/8" for each

pass when using bits up to 1/2"

diameter in softwood. When using bits

over 1/2" diameter, limit depth-of-cut to

half the recommended depths for 1/2"

diameter bits.

SAFETY RULES FOR THE

SHOPSMITH OVERARM ROUTER

• Be sure to read and understand this entire

Owners Manual before using the Overarm

Router. Also, do not use the Overarm

Router unless you are sure it is assembled

properly, all safety devices are installed,

and you understand the operations you

are attempting to perform.

• Always use a fixture, fence, and/or starter

and guide pins to help control the

workpiece.

• Always feed the workpiece against the

rotation of the bit, not with it. Otherwise

the bit will grab and throw the

workpiece.

• Keep the guard in place and in working

order. Always set the guard no more than

1/4" above the workpiece.

• Keep your hands, fingers and other parts

of your body at least 3" away from the

rotating bit.

• Keep a firm grip on the workpiece at all

times and never hold the workpiece with

your hands in line with the router bit.

• Use a push stick, push block, feather-

board(s), miter gauge with safety grip,

fixtures, or other safety devices to maneu-

ver a workpiece into a rotating bit. If a

kickback occurs, these devices help to

protect your hands and fingers.

• Always clamp a straight piece of scrap

stock to your worktable surface for use

in holding your workpiece against the

fence during straight-line routing opera-

tions. Also use a long piece of scrap stock

to feed a narrow workpiece underneath

the guard to complete a cut.

• Use only Shopsmith parts and accesso-

ries on your Overarm Router. NEVER use

non-Shopsmith replacement parts or ac-

cessories. They are not designed like

Shopsmith parts. Using non-Shopsmith

parts may create a hazardous condition

and will void your warranty. Follow your

router manufacturer’s recommendations

as to replacement of router parts.

• Cut with the grain instead of against the

grain. You will get a smoother cut and

the operation will be safer.

• Avoid standing in-line with the

workpiece being fed. In the event of a

kickback you could be hit.

• Feed the workpiece slowly. Use extra care

in routing workpieces that contain fig-

ured grain or knots, as these may cause

kickbacks.

• Do not rout second-hand lumber. If you

hit a nail, screw, or other foreign object,

you could be hit by pieces of metal or

there could be kickback.

• When you are routing stock up to 10"

wide across the grain, use a piece of scrap

stock cut at a 90° angle to guide the

workpiece through the cut. The

workpiece must extend 5-1/2" away from

router bit.

• Do not “freehand” rout stock less than

12" X 12" or equivalent.

• Support long boards and sheet materials

with a roller stand(s) placed 1' -4' from

the worktable.

• When stop routing, always use stop

block(s) to control the length of cut. Fail-

ure to use stop block(s) could cause the

bit to grab and throw the workpiece.

• Avoid taking deep cuts. With the excep-

tion of single-pass dovetail cuts, limit

depth-of-cut to 1/4" for each pass when

using bits up to 1/2" diameter in hard-

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

• When routing oversize stock, always use speed steel bits are heat treated for extra

at least one push block to help control hardness and to hold keen cutting edges.

the workpiece firmly against the fence.

Carbide bits (solid or tipped) are the finest

bits available today. Although more expen-

sive, they will outlast high speed steel bits

at a 15 to 1 ratio on softwoods and are highly

recommended for use on hardwoods, plas-

tic laminates, plywood and particleboard.

• Do not work with stock that is too small

or too large to handle safely; that is

warped, bowed or cupped; or that has

loose knots or other defects.

• Plan the operation before you begin. If

you are in doubt about how to complete Router bits are generally classified into four

an operation safely, do not attempt it. You different categories — grooving bits, edge

can contact your Shopsmith Customer cutting bits, panel bits and laminate and ve-

Service Representative or Store person- neer trimming bits. (See Chart.)

nel for advice.

• Secure the router, overarm assembly,

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

depth stop rod, depth control handle,

You’ll enjoy longer use of your router bits if

worktable, accessories, safety devices,

you make it a point to handle, use and

fences, and fixtures before turning on the

sharpen them properly.

motor.

• Use your router bits only for the job they

are intended to do.

TYPES OF

• Make sure the bit is mounted rigidly in

ROUTER BITS

the collet.

Router bits come in a wide variety of shapes

and sizes designed to be used at very high

speeds.

• Learn to cut your workpiece at the proper

speed to prevent heat buildup that can

cause the loss of bit hardness.

• Between operations, set your bits in a safe

place where they will not fall or get hit.

CAUTION

Never use solvent on a bearing piloted

bit without first removing the bearing.

The part of the bit mounted in the router

chuck is called the shank and the rounded

extension beyond the cutter on some bits is

called the pilot. The cutting edge of the bit

is called a flute. Router bits have one, two

or three flutes and the more flutes there are

on the bit, the more cuts that can be made

per minute. A higher number of flutes re-

duces the load on the motor and produces a

smoother cut.

• After use, clean bits thoroughly.

• Sharpen your bits with a small slip-stone

or oilstone with oil. Hone the face of each

cutter with light strokes in one direction.

Never hone the outside edge because it re-

duces the diameter of the cutter. Hone

each cutter edge with the same number

of strokes.

• If the cutting edge is nicked, take the bit

to a professional sharpening service.

Quality bits are made of high speed steel,

solid carbide or carbide-tipped steel. High

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

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555970

T-NUT

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

DEPTH

STOP ROD

DOVETAIL

ASSEMBLY

DEPTH

CONTROL

HANDLE

MOUNTING

BRACKET

CLAMPS

BRASS GIB

MOTOR

BRACKETS

WAY TUBE

MOUNTING

BRACKETS

WORKTABLE

GUARD

ASSEMBLY

DUST

CHUTE

CIRCULAR

TABLE INSERTS

TWO-PIECE

ROUTER FENCE

holes in your Model 500 MARK V

with two buttonhead setscrews and

washers through the elongated

travel slots in the Overarm Router

Table surface.

TERMS TO KNOW

It’s important that you become familiar with

all of your Overarm Router‘s functions and

parts before you begin to use it.

Two sets of threaded inserts are pro-

vided in the Worktable surface for at-

taching the two-piece Router Fence.

The functioning parts of the Router Arm are:

1. Worktable – Made of a durable lami-

nate-covered MDF (medium density

fiberboard) the Overarm Router’s Work-

table mounts to your MARK’s Work-

table in one of two ways:

2. Guard Assembly – The clear guard pro-

tects your fingers and hands, keeps

chips away from you and gives you a

clear, open view of the surface being

routed at all times.

Models 505, 510 and 520 – Mounts

into the right-hand Worktable Miter

Gauge slot with two sliding T-Nuts

and setscrews.

3. Dust Chute – Your dust collection sys-

tem attaches to the chute to help collect

sawdust and chips.

Model 500 – Mounts into the two

threaded Table Insert mounting

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

4. Motor Brackets – Firmly hold any

round, hand-held router motor from

2-1/2" to 4" in diameter. These dimen-

sions are for the motor only (the router

base is removed during operations).

head capscrews, threaded into the holes

on the back sides of the Mounting

Brackets.

13. SLIDING T-Nuts – Used to attach your

Overarm Router Table to your Model

505, 510 or 520 MARK V Worktable.

5. Brass Gib – Adjusts with four Allen set

screws to eliminate side-to-side move-

ment of the motor while allowing

smooth, vertical movement of the dove-

tail slide.

OVERARM ROUTER

ASSEMBLY

6. Depth Stop Rod – Locks into any po-

sition to limit your depth-of-cut during

operations.

WARNING

7. Dovetail Assembly – Moves up-and-

down by means of a steel rack-and-pin-

ion gear mechanism. The dovetail slide

provides 3-1/2" of vertical motor travel.

Your safety and the ability to use your

new Shopsmith Overarm Pin Router

properly depends on your following

these assembly and use instructions

exactly.

8. Depth Control Handle – Conveniently

raises and lowers the router motor. A

simple twist locks the handle in place.

NOTE

9. Circular Table Inserts – Two provided:

One with a 1-3/8" diameter center hole

and an offset threaded insert for the

Starting Pin (included) . . . and another

with a center threaded insert for the

three interchangeable Overarm routing

Guide Pins (three included: 1/4", 3/8"

and 1/2" diameters).

Reference numbers that appear in paren-

theses following the part names correspond

with the numbers on the figures in this sec-

tion and the exploded view in the Parts List

section of this Manual.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED:

10. Two-Piece Router Fence – Adjustable

aluminum Fences attach to the Work-

table mounting holes with threaded

plastic Knobs, Spacers and washers for

straight-line routing operations.

• 1/8" Allen wrench

• 5/32" Allen wrench

• 1/4" Allen wrench

• 5/16" Allen wrench

• 7/16" Open end wrench

11. MARK V Way Tube Mounting Brack-

ets – Upper and lower Mounting Brack-

ets attach to the Overarm . . . then around

the MARK V Way Tubes with mating

Clamps, supporting the Overarm

Router above the Worktable.

• Furniture or floor paste wax (do NOT use

car wax or spray furniture polish)

• Mineral spirits

• Fine file or emery cloth (optional)

12. Mounting Bracket Clamps – Clamp

around the “back side” of your Way

Tubes with 3" long x 3/8" dia. socket

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

sitions in the Brackets. For most operations,

the 2nd and 3rd set of holes nearest the busi-

ness-end of the Arm are used as shown in

Figure 1. If you need more throat depth,

choose the four holes that best suit your

needs.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN...

It’s a good idea to clean all major metal parts

with mineral spirits to remove any dirt or

grease residue. Any burrs found on parts

should be removed with a fine file or emery

cloth. If required, clean your router motor

according to the instructions in its Owner’s

Manual.

Wax and buff the Worktable surface, apply-

ing the wax sparingly, then buffing it out

thoroughly. If you apply too much wax or

fail to buff it out properly, the wax will mix

with the sawdust you generate, impede the

movement of the Overarm Router’s parts

and leave residue on your workpieces.

Remove all accessories from the MARK V’s

Headstock and prepare the machine as you

would for Drill Press operations. Remove the

Worktable from the Carriage (this will make

it easier for you to raise the machine to ver-

tical position).

Figure 1. Normal Mounting Position

NOTE

When mounting, drop the capscrews

through the TOP of the Brackets and into

the Arm, with flat washers and wing nuts

on the bottom. This way, the bolts won’t

drop out of position when you remove the

wing nuts and washers to change Arm po-

sitions.

Slide the Headstock all the way to the left

until it rests against the Way Tube Tie Bar.

Tighten the Headstock Lock lever.

Position the Carriage so the distance between

the Carriage and the Headstock is about 15".

Tighten the Carriage Lock Handle. Raise the

MARK V into Drill Press position. NOTE:

Shopsmith’s Lift-Assist Accessory will make

this task much easier.

INSTALL THE

DEPTH STOP ROD (6)

WHICH MOUNTING HOLES ?

Thread the 1/4"-20 wing nut onto the Depth

Stop Rod, then thread the Rod (with wing

nut) into the threaded hole in the top of the

Dovetail Slide.

Before mounting the Overarm Router to the

MARK V, the two Mounting Brackets (11)

must be bolted to the Arm of the tool with

four 5-1/4" long x 5/16" dia. socket head cap

screws, washers and wing nuts (finger-tight

only at this time). Do not install your router

motor yet.

Once the Brackets are mounted to the Arm,

use the Depth Control Handle (8) to “lower”

your Motor Brackets (4) to the “bottom” of

their travel in the Dovetail Assembly

(7) . . . and unscrew the Depth Stop Rod (6)

so it is all the way to the “top” of its travel.

There are six pairs of mounting holes in the

Arm, providing a total of five mounting po-

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

Adjust the Overarm’s position so the Depth

Stop Rod Knob doesn’t collide with the end

of the MARK V’s Quill when the Stop Rod

is adjusted to its full “up” position and

tighten the two large capscrews using a

5/16" Allen wrench.

RE-INSTALL THE MARK V

WORKTABLE

Loosen the Table Tilt Lock Lever, tilt your

Table to 90° (as you would when setting up

for Drill Press) and tighten the Lever. Install

the Worktable in the Carriage, slide it “back”

until its edge is 3" from the Way Tubes.

Tighten the Table Height Lock.

INSTALL YOUR ROUTER MOTOR

IN THE OVERARM

Place a piece of scrap plywood or cardboard

on your table. With the Overarm Router’s

Deflector (20) resting on your MARK V’s

Worktable surface (See Fig. 2), position the

semi-circular cut-outs of the Brackets (29)

against the Way Tubes. Hold the assembly

in position while you screw the two 3" long

x 3/8" dia. socket head capscrews through

the Clamps (30) and into the threaded holes

in the Mounting Brackets (29). See Fig. 3.

Remove your Router motor from its base (see

instructions included with your router.)

Place the motor between the front and rear

motor Brackets on the Overarm until it bot-

toms out against the Deflector (20) . . . then

raise it approximately 1/8" to allow for

proper air circulation.

CAUTION

Always position the Router Motor so it is

raised about 1/8" off the Deflector to al-

low for proper airflow and cooling dur-

ing operation. Without this 1/8" clearance,

overheating and damage to your router

motor will result.

Use a 7/16" open end wrench to tighten the

two Motor Bracket nuts (See Fig. 4). Be sure

your router’s switch is located for easy ac-

cessibility during operations . . . and that none

of the small lugs or other protruding parts

on the motor’s housing interfere with a good

“seating” in the Motor Brackets. When posi-

tioning your router motor, be sure its collet

or bit locking nuts are accessible without the

need for additional motor adjustments.

Figure 2. Attaching the Overarm Router

to the MARK V

Figure 4. Install the

router motor in

the Overarm.

Figure 3. Tighten the Clamp capscrews

with the 5/16" Allen wrench.

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

CAUTION

Over-tightening the Motor Bracket nuts

may cause damage to the motor and/or

housing of your router.

FOR MODEL 500

INSTALL THE REAR GUARD AND

DUST COLLECTOR ASSEMBLY

FOR MODELS 505, 510,520

Install a flat washer over each stud of the

front Motor Clamp, and then slip the rear

guard/dust chute with strip brushes onto

the clamp studs and secure with two more

flat washers and wing nuts. See Figure 5 for

correct assembly order.

Figure 6. Use the left hole of each pair

when mounting the Worktable on

Model 505, 510 and 520 MARK V’s for

most applications. Use counterbored

slots for Model 500.

Models 505, 510, 520

Use the sliding T-nuts and 1/4"-20 flat head

machine screws provided. Lay the Router

Table right-side-up on a flat surface in front

of you with the eight threaded insert holes

away from you. You will notice two pairs of

countersunk holes in the Table surface, about

7-1/2" in from the “front” edge of the Table

(See Fig. 6). These are the holes you will use

to mount your Overarm Router’s Table to

your Model 505, 510 or 520 MARK V’s Work-

table.

Figure 5. Overhead view of proper motor

clamp hardware assembly order

(looking down from above).

For the majority of your conventional and

pin routing operations, you will use the two

left holes in each pair to mount the Table to

the “front” Miter Gauge slot in your MARK

V’s Worktable. This approach will provide

the maximum workpiece support in “front”

of your Router bit and motor. . . and allow

you to use your Two-Piece Router Fence (in-

cluded).

MOUNT THE OVERARM ROUTER

TABLE ONTO THE MARK V

WORKTABLE

Model 500

Remove the MARK V Table Insert. Use the

two buttonhead Allen capscrews with wash-

ers to mount the Overarm Router Table to

the MARK V Worktable by inserting them

through the two elongated mounting holes

in the Router Table and threading them di-

rectly into the Model 500 MARK V Table In-

sert mounting holes (See Fig. 6).

If you would prefer to have more workpiece

support “behind” your Router bit and mo-

tor, use the two right holes in each pair to

mount the Table to the “back” Miter Gauge

slot in your MARK V’s Worktable. When us-

ing this approach, the Table must be rotated

180° and installed with the eight threaded

Fence inserts toward the “front” of the Table.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

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CAUTION

WARNING

Never operate the Overarm Router unless

the Table Tubes are extending flush with

the bottom of the Carriage or beyond. Do-

ing so will not provide adequate support

for the Table and could result in damage

to the machine.

This set-up will make it impossible for

you to use your Two-Piece Overarm

Router Fence safely.

Position the two T-nuts in the “front” Miter

Gauge slot of your MARK V’s Worktable,

near the two ends of the slot. Lay the Over-

arm Router Table onto the surface of the

MARK V Table.

For any operation where the cut profile is

such that the Router Bit extends below the

top surface of the Worktable, the Table

should always be aligned so that its center

hole is aligned with the centerpoint of the

Router Bit.

Align the left hole in the left pair of coun-

tersunk mounting holes in your Router Table

surface over the outside (or left) 1/4"

threaded hole in the left T-Nut. Insert a

1/4"-20 flathead machine screw through the

countersunk Table hole and thread it into the

T-Nut hole. Use a 5/32" Allen wrench to run

the screw down into the hole but do not

tighten it at this time.

CAUTION

Adequate Worktable Support is

critical for the best results.

It is recommended that you always use

the Telescoping Legs and Connector

Tubes that came with your Model 510 or

520 MARK V to support the outer edge of

the Overarm Router Worktable during op-

erations.

Slide the Router Table to the right slightly

until the left hole in the right pair of coun-

tersunk mounting holes in your Router Table

surface align over the outside (or right)

1/4" threaded hole in the right T-Nut. In-

sert a 1/4"-20 flathead machine screw

through the countersunk Table hole and

thread it into the T-Nut hole. Use a 5/32"

Allen wrench to run the screw down into the

hole but do not tighten it at this time.

This is especially true if you’re working

with heavier-than-normal workpieces – or

if you have the Arm of your Overarm

Router extended far forward to provide

additional throat capacity.

Loosen MARK V Carriage Lock and raise the

Worktable and Carriage assembly up on the

way tubes to within 5" to 6" of the Deflector

bottom (20). Lock the carriage in place.

If you own a Model 505 Anniversary

Edition MARK V, you must purchase two

Connector Tubes (Part # 514439), two

Telescoping Legs (Part # 514529) and two

Adjustable Fittings (514620).

Extend the Worktable until the bottoms of

the MARK V Table Tubes are flush with the

bottom of the carriage, then lock the MARK

V table into position.

If you own a Model 500 MARK V, a single

Support Leg (Part # 555627) is available

for your machine that attaches around the

lip of the front edge of your Worktable.

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This approach allows you to make whatever

minute adjustments may be required to bring

the Inserts to a flush position by shimming

them with small pieces of masking or duct

tape stuck to the underside of the Inserts on

either side of the mounting screw holes.

Once the Inserts are flush, further adjust-

ments shouldn’t be necessary.

Attach the table insert with the 3 screws and

the 1/8" Allen wrench provided.

ALIGNMENT AND

ADJUSTMENT

Figure 7. The two Table Inserts: Left insert

for common routing operations –

Right insert for pin routing.

RE-POSITIONING THE DEPTH

CONTROL HANDLE

There are 2 Table Inserts (60/61), see Fig. 7).

• The one on the left in Fig. 7 offers a 1-3/8"

diameter round hole in the center and a

brass threaded insert at its outer edge for

a Starter Pin. This insert is used for most

conventional, non pin-routing operations.

If the Depth Control Handle (40) is posi-

tioned too far forward or backward for com-

fortable operation, its position can be

changed. Here’s how. First, raise the depth

stop rod, then loosen the depth control

handle by twisting its knob counterclockwise

about one-half turn.

• The other features two brass threaded

inserts . . . one in the center and another at

its outer edge for a Starter Pin. This insert

is used when performing pin routing op-

erations.

Rotate the Depth Control Handle forward so

the Router motor is in its approximate cut-

ting position (Typically with the Router collet

approximately 2" to 3" above the Worktable

surface.)

Both inserts are installed in the Overarm

Router Table surface with three 10-24 x 3/4"

machine screws, using a 1/8" Allen wrench.

If the handle position is uncomfortable, re-

position it by twisting the handle counter-

clockwise about one-half turn . . . grasping the

clutch and handle assembly. . . and pulling it

outward (to the right) to disengage it from

the rack. Move it to a comfortable position

and push it back inward (to the left) to re-

engage the rack and pinion mechanism.

Twist the Depth Control Handle clockwise

to lock your height setting. If this is diffi-

cult, loosen the setscrew (41) until the clutch

BRINGING THE INSERT FLUSH

WITH THE WORKTABLE SURFACE

It’s important to note that the Overarm

Router Worktable is made of MDF. . . an un-

stable material that can fluctuate in size

based on humidity and other factors. It’s also

important to note that MDF is a wood-based

material and holding exact tolerances when

machining the Insert cutouts is virtually

impossible. For those reasons, we have pur-

posely made the Insert cutout slightly

deeper, so the Inserts are sub-flush once

installed.

and

handle

snap

and

out

easily.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

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ROUTER BIT TO GUIDE

PIN ALIGNMENT

CAUTION

Before disengaging the Clutch and

Handle assembly, always adjust the Depth

Stop Rod so it makes contact with the top

of the Arm or hold the Dovetail Slide so

the Router Motor doesn’t drop and dam-

age your workpiece or the Worktable.

When performing pin routing operations, it’s

critical that the Router Bit and Guide Pin be

in perfect alignment with one another.

To check this alignment, insert a 3/8" diam-

eter straight Router Bit into the collet of your

Router Motor and tighten securely. Screw the

3/8" Guide Pin into the threaded center hole

in the Overarm Router Table Insert. Lower

the motor so your Bit is approximately 1"

above the Guide Pin.

ADJUSTING THE BRASS GIB

The tightness of the Brass Gib should be ad-

justed so the Router Motor won’t slip and

drop abruptly when the Depth Control

Handle is unscrewed prior to re-setting your

depth-of-cut.

Figure 9. Use the handle portion of a

combination square as a gauge for

checking the bit-to-guide-pin alignment

at three points, 90° apart.

Figure 8. If required, use a 1/8" Allen wrench

to achieve proper Gib pressure.

Use the base of the combination square (See

Fig. 9) to check Bit-to-Guide-Pin alignment

at three points 90 degrees apart. If the Bit

and Guide Pin are not in perfect alignment,

front-to-back and/or left-to-right Worktable

adjustments will be required.

If it does slip, the Brass Gib is set too loose

against the side surface of the Dovetail Slide.

To adjust the Gib, use a 1/8" Allen wrench

to tighten the four setscrews (26) uniformly

in small increments until the proper Gib

pressure is achieved (see Figure 8). When ad-

justed properly, the Depth Control Handle

should move the motor freely without any

“slop” between the arm and the dovetail

slide.

Front-to-back adjustments are made by loos-

ening the MARK V Table Height Lock Knob

and using the MARK V’s Table Height ad-

justment handles or knobs.

Left-to-right adjustments are made on

MARK V Models 505, 510 and 520 machines

by loosening the two 1/4"-20 flathead ma-

chine screws that hold the Overarm Router

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

Table to the MARK V Worktable . . . then slid- Before we look at each of the different types

ing the table left or right and tightening the of operations in-depth, let’s review some ba-

screws once proper alignment is achieved.

sic Overarm Routing guidelines that apply

to both approaches.

On Model 500 MARK V’s, these adjustments

are made by loosening the two roundhead

machine screws in the elongated slots to the

left and right of the Router Table Insert cut-

out.

GENERAL GUIDELINES

FOR BOTH TYPES OF

OVERARM ROUTING

1. Installing the Router Bit . . . Always in-

sert the router bit all the way into the

router motor’s collet . . . then retract it

about 1/16" to 1/8" to avoid locking the

router collet on the transition between

the shank and the cutter of the router

bit.

OVERARM PIN

ROUTING OPERATIONS

SAFETY FIRST

WARNING

To protect yourself from injury, read,

understand, and follow all the instruc-

tions in the safety section before you

operate the routing system.

WARNING

Always make sure the router bit is se-

cured properly in the collet. Loose bits

can easily work free and cause serious

injury.

USING YOUR SHOPSMITH

OVERARM PIN ROUTER

2. Mounting your accessories . . . Depend-

ing on the type of routing you’re doing,

mount the pin insert, appropriate starter

and/or guide pins, fixture, fences, and/

or other safety devices to help you

maintain control of your workpieces

during operation and avoid personal

injury.

The information in this section of your

manual will provide the basic understand-

ing you’ll need to perform overarm routing

operations. To get the “feel” of your Over-

arm Pin Router, it’s best to practice doing

simple work before you tackle more difficult

operations.

There are two ways to use this versatile tool:

1. As a duplication tool . . . for making

multiples with fixtures or other guiding

devices

WARNING

• Always use a starter pin, guide pin,

fixture, fence, shop-made feather-

board(s), push stick, push block or

other safety device to control

workpieces. Never freehand rout

stock less than 12" x 12" or equiva-

2. As an overhead routing tool . . . for per-

forming common routing operations

such as decorative edging, dadoing,

grooving, mortising and creating other

types of specialized joinery.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

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lent size. Small workpieces can be

very difficult to control during op-

erations without appropriate holding

and guiding devices.

the recommended depths for bits less

than 1/2" diameter.

4. Adjusting the Guard . . . Lower the

Guard so it clears the workpiece by

1/4", then tighten its wing nut securely.

• For overarm routing operations, the

Table Insert must always be posi-

tioned with the threaded brass starter

pin hole to the left of the threaded

Guide Pin hole or center hole

(depending on which Insert you’re

using.

WARNING

• Never rout without the Guard in

place

• Always position the Guard about

1/4" to not more than 1/2" above the

workpiece surface.

3. Setting your final depth-of-cut . . . With

the Depth Control Handle unscrewed

about one-half turn, lower the router

motor by rotating the Depth Control

Handle counter-clockwise. Position

your workpiece next to the bit and de-

termine your final depth-off-cut. Tighten

the Depth Control Handle to lock the

motor in position, then screw the Depth

Stop Rod downward until it contacts the

Overarm casting. Tighten the wing nut

to lock the Rod in position

5. Making your cut . . . Loosen the Depth

Control Handle, raise the motor and re-

tighten the Handle. Set the workpiece

in position on the Worktable.

Turn on the motor, loosen the Depth

Control Handle and pull it forward to

lower the router bit slowly into your

workpiece until the approximate depth

for the first pass is reached.

Tighten the depth control handle, then

make your cut . . . ALWAYS moving

the workpiece counter-clockwise,

AGAINST the rotation of the Router

Bit.

WARNING

• Avoid taking deep cuts. Your depth-

of-cut should typically be limited to

no more than 1/4" for each pass when

using bits up to 1/2" diameter in

hardwoods.

WARNING

• For single-pass dovetail bits, always

cut a groove first, then cut the dove-

tail profile in the groove.

ALWAYS move your workpiece

AGAINST the direction of the rotat-

ing router bit and NEVER WITH the

rotation of the bit. Moving WITH the

rotation of the bit is referred to as a

“climb-cut”, which could cause the bit

to grab the workpiece, resulting in per-

sonal injury.

• Limit your depth-of-cut to 3/8" for

each pass when using bits up to 1/2"

diameter in soft woods.

• When using bits over 1/2" in diam-

eter, limit your depth-of-cut to half

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Re-position the depth control handle for

market electronic router speed control

device. Such devices are fairly inexpen-

sive and allow you to slow your Router

motor down to the correct speed for

making smooth, burn-free cuts on even

the hardest of woods.

each additional pass until the final

depth-of-cut is attained. Once you’ve

completed your final pass, loosen the

Depth Control Handle, raise the motor,

retighten the Handle and turn off the

motor. Only when the motor has

stopped completely should you re-

move and inspect your workpiece.

ROUTER DUPLICATION

USING SHOP-MADE

FIXTURES

NOTE

If you’re planning to make a large quantity

of the same product, the fixture duplicating

method is best for speed and accuracy – and

making your own fixtures to cut out and

shape these products is easier than you

might think.

The quality of your cut will depend on

three factors: (1) The depth-of-cut, (2) Your

feed rate and (3) The condition of your

Router Bit. Shallow cuts, a slow feed rate

and a sharp Bit will always produce the

best quality cut.

Fixtures are usually made from plastic lami-

nate-covered materials such as countertop

cut-outs for sinks. That’s because these ma-

terials will hold up under continuous use

much better than ordinary wood. Sink cut-

outs are readily available at plumbing sup-

ply houses, from contractors, at cabinet

shops, or even at many home centers or

hardware stores...and are usually very inex-

pensive.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT

ROUTER MOTOR SPEEDS

Router motors operate at the highest speeds

of any woodworking tools. For this reason,

unsightly burn marks can often appear

where the Bit meets the wood. This is espe-

cially true with hard woods such as maple,

cherry, oak, etc. which are best worked at

slower speeds.

Here are three valuable tips for avoiding

burn marks:

TYPES OF FIXTURES

There are three basic types of fixtures for pin

routing:

1. Always use sharp, clean bits.

2. Never attempt to make deep cuts in a

single pass. Taking multiple light passes

will always produce better results. For

best results, make the depth-of-cut on

your final pass 1/16" or less.

1. Screw-down fixtures . . . are the easiest

fixtures to make, but require more time

to attach and remove your workpieces

than clamp-in or profile fixtures With

this type of fixture, screws (or nails) are

used to hold your workpiece to the fix-

ture.

3. Always work in a continuous motion

without dwelling and don’t forget to

raise the rotating bit from the workpiece

before turning the motor off.

When building a screw-down fixture, be

sure to position the screw holes so your

router bit will not cut into the screws

once the workpiece is attached. The ex-

4. If your Router is a single speed model,

consider purchasing a plug-in after-

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

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ample fixture shown in Figure 10 will

produce two different sized oval picture

frames, one oval plaque and a rectan-

gular picture frame with an oval

opening . . . all from a single workpiece.

2. Clamp-in fixtures . . . are best used when

the outside profile of the product you’re

building is already cut, since any cut-

ting on outside edges will damage the

clamping device (See Fig. 11).

In our example, we’ve used a clamp-in

fixture to cut out a coach lantern that

just happens to have straight, square

outside edges. This fixture features at-

tached sides that form a perimeter

around your workpiece (protruding

above the surface of the fixture, not

quite as high as your workpieces will

be thick) . . . and uses a straight, wooden

clamping bar on the left side that’s

clamped down with thumbscrews

threaded through ordinary drive-in T-

nuts.

Figure 10. A typical screw-down fixture

(lower left) — and the projects made with it.

CAUTION

Be sure to use screws to hold every piece

of stock that will be separated when you

make your through-cuts. If you fail to do

this, once these cuts are made, scrap

stock could be caught by your rotating

router bit, causing a dangerous kick-back.

This does not apply to the outside scrap

piece that may be removed after you

make your first cut.

Figure 11. A typical clamp-in fixture and

the project made with it.

As an alternative to this side clamping

method, the clamp could just as easily

work from the top of the fixture, as long

as your clamping device won’t interfere

with your cuts.

NOTE

When using screw-down fixtures for mass-

production, it’s a good idea to use your

original fixture to make several more of the

same design. This way, you won’t be con-

tinually removing and replacing work-

pieces to make different types of cuts with

different profile bits.

3. Profile fixtures . . . are used for shaping

edges only, such as candle sconces or the

tops of picket fences (See Fig 12). This

type of fixture features protruding screw

or nail tips which help hold the

workpiece in position in the fixture and

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

keep it from sliding around while you

4. Trace the grooves you cut in step two

over the Table Pin, transferring your de-

sign to the workpiece

make your cuts. To seat the stock in a

profile fixture, just position it properly

and tap it gently with the heel of your

hand or a non-metallic mallet to seat the

screw or nail tips.

Now, let’s review the specific procedures for

making the various types of fixtures and us-

ing them to duplicate your projects.

HOW TO MAKE SCREW-DOWN

AND CLAMP-IN FIXTURES

The fixture-making process is really quite

simple. Here’s the step-by-step process:

1. Make a Template – Start by tracing a

full-size pattern for your project onto a

piece of 1/2" thick solid (without voids)

plywood or MDF.

Figure 12. A typical profile fixture and

the picket fence top made with it.

Why 1/2" thick? Because the screw-in

Pins that you’ll be routing against (and

over) are 3/8" high and the template

must be thicker than the height of the

pin to allow for free movement.

AN OVERVIEW OF PIN ROUTING

WITH FIXTURES

The basic principle of all Pin Routing fixtures

is the same, no matter which style of fixture

you decide to use, with one difference:

Cut out your shape carefully with a

Bandsaw and/or Scroll Saw. Keep out-

side of your cutting lines at all times.

Always leave a small amount of mate-

rial that you can sand down to its exact

shape when you’ve finished with a

drum sander or your choice of sanding

device.

• With screw-down and clamp-in style fix-

tures, a template is first cut and guided

against the Table Pin, while the router bit

transfers the design to the laminate side

of the fixture. This process creates the fix-

ture grooves that will guide the Router Bit

as it cuts your duplicates.

Alternative Method

As an alternative to making a template

from scratch, you can also use an exist-

ing item as your fixture-making tem-

plate. In our Figure 13 example, we’ve

screwed an existing awards plaque to

our fixture blank.

• With profile style fixtures, the cut-out

template IS the fixture.

The basic, four-step Pin-Routing

process, in a nutshell:

1. Make a template in the shape of your

desired finished piece.

With the item attached to the particle-

board side of your fixture blank, trace

it against the table pin to form the

grooves in the laminate side of your fix-

ture (See Fig. 14).

2. Use the template to cut the grooves in

the laminate side of your fixture

3. Attach a workpiece blank to the oppo-

site side of the fixture

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WHY MAKE A GROOVED FIXTURE?

The question is often asked...

”Why should I cut grooves in a fixture instead of just screwing a template to one side of

the fixture, the workpiece to the other, and guiding my template against the Table Pin,

as I would when making the fixture?”

The answer is simple. When guiding your fixture against a Table Pin, you must con-

stantly maintain a steady pressure against the Pin at all times. A momentary lapse in

concentration can easily result in a cut going outside your desired shape. As a result,

against-the-pin routing is always a slower, more risky process than dropping the fixture

over the Table Pin.

When routing over a Table Pin, the Pin is captive in its groove and cannot go outside

your desired shape unless the fixture is raised off the table surface, releasing the Pin from

its groove. Over-the-Pin routing allows you to move more rapidly through the cut, with

little fear of slip-ups that could ruin your workpieces.

2. Cut out your fixture blank – As men-

tioned, fixtures should be made of a

laminate-covered material, such as 3/4"

thick sink cut-outs. Be sure to make

your fixture blank about 4" longer and

4" wider than your finished project, so

you have room to grip your fixture and

still keep your hands well out of harm’s

way.

3. Mount your template to the fixture

blank – Mount it to the non-laminate-

covered side of your fixture blank. Cen-

Figure 13. Using an existing item

(in this case a plaque) as a template

ter the template in the fixture and use

screws or nails to hold the template

firmly in position. Be sure to put screws

for making your fixture

or nails through each segment of the

template and don’t forget to counter-

sink all screw or nail heads to keep

them from marring your Router Table

surface.

If there are to be multiple grooves in

your fixture (such as those in Figure 10),

be sure to leave adequate space between

the template segments for your Guide

Pin to ride in while you make your

fixture.

Figure 14. Guide the edge of your existing

item against the pin to cut a matching

groove in the laminate side of your fixture.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

For most applications, we recommend

using a 3/8" diameter Guide Pin.

6. Cut all remaining guide grooves – Fol-

low the same procedures outlined in

step #5 above. Remove the template

pieces from the particleboard side of the

fixture.

IMPORTANT: The distances between

your template segments must remain

exact, all the way around its perimeter.

Any variations here and your fixture

will not function properly.

7. SCREW-DOWN FIXTURES – Drill

your mounting screw pilot holes

through the laminate side of your fix-

ture, being sure to countersink your

screw heads well below the surface.

4. Set up your Overarm Router for fix-

ture-making – For most projects, we rec-

ommend using a 3/8" Guide Pin and a

matching 3/8" carbide-tipped straight

router bit. Align the Pin and bit exactly

with one another as shown in Figure 8.

Adjust the Overarm Router’s Depth

Stop Rod to make a cut 7/16" deep

(remember. . . the Guide Pins are 3/8"

high). Lower your see-through Guard to

about 1/2" above the fixture surface. At-

tach your dust collection hose to the

port.

CLAMP-IN FIXTURES – Attach sides

around the perimeter of your fixture

(protruding above the surface of the fix-

ture, but not quite as high as your

workpieces will be thick). For durabil-

ity, use oak, maple or similar hard

woods for the sides and clamping bar.

Before attaching the side you select to

contain your clamp-down thumbscrews,

insert ordinary drive-in, threaded T-

Nuts from the INSIDE of your frame

piece. Cut a straight, wooden clamping

bar to fit inside the perimeter. Once as-

sembled, tightening the thumbscrews

will press the clamping bar against the

blank workpiece, holding it in position

while you cut out your shape. See Fig-

ure 15.

5. Cut the outside groove first – With the

router motor turned off, position your

fixture blank on the Overarm Router’s

Table...laminate side up and template

side down. Move the outside edge of

your template forward until it rests sol-

idly against the Guide Pin.

Turn on your router (and dust collec-

tor) and slowly lower the rotating bit

into the top of your fixture. Lock the

Depth Control Handle into position and

make an initial cut about 1/8" deep. Ro-

tate your workpiece slowly and cau-

tiously in a counter-clockwise direction

(Against the rotation of the bit) – being

careful to maintain a steady, even pres-

sure against the Table Pin at all times

– until you’ve completed the first 1/8"

deep pass.

Repeat the process above two more

times, until you’ve created a guide

groove in the laminate side of your fix-

ture that’s 7/16" deep.

Figure 15. Construction of a typical

clamp-in fixture

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

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8. Save your fixture-making templates –

Set your templates aside in the event

you need to make more fixtures or re-

place one that has been damaged.

If you’re able to include sides on your

fixture to help hold your workpiece, you

should only need two or three holding

points. If your workpiece is odd-shaped

and sides are not an option, you may

need more holding points. Be sure

screw or nail heads are countersunk

below the surface of the fixture

bottom.

HOW TO MAKE

PROFILE FIXTURES

Profile fixtures are used for shaping the out-

side edges of workpieces only. In our picket

fence example (See Fig. 12), the protruding

screw or nail tips and sides hold the

workpiece in position during operations.

NOTE

If you’re planning to make a large quantity

of any project, it’s often a good idea to make

several identical fixtures. This is especially

true if you’ll be using different shaped router

bits to cut out your shape, form decorative

edges and cut sliding dovetails, grooves, da-

does or rabbets using different bits.

Here’s the simple, three-step process:

1. Cut the profile shape – In our example,

we selected a piece of 3/4" thick, lami-

nate-covered sink cut-out for our fixture

base that was the same, exact width as

our fence pickets. Make it a minimum

of 18" long, if possible to provide ad- This way, you can have several components

equate support for the workpiece. We

used a bandsaw to cut out the profiled

mounted in their fixtures and make a num-

ber of cuts with the same profile bit, in-

shape on one end of our fixture . . . then stead of frequently changing from bit-to-

sanded the edges smooth with a drum bit.

sander.

2. Attach fixture sides, if practical – Since

our fence pickets will have straight

sides, we were then able to attach 8"

long side pieces to the fixture, being sure

to keep them away from the shaped area

so they won’t interfere with the router

bit while we’re making our cuts. Make

the sides out of an appropriate hard-

wood such as oak, maple, hickory or

ash.

HOW TO USE PIN

ROUTING FIXTURES

Routing over a pin with a

screw-down fixture

As we’ve explained, with a screw-down fix-

ture (See Fig 16), your workpiece is secured

to the non-grooved (particleboard) side of

the fixture with screws. The fixture is then

flipped over and the grooves (in the shape

of your intended finished piece) in the lami-

nate side of the fixture are traced over the

Guide Pin.

3. Install holding points – Use 8-penny

nails or 1" long drywall screws with

sharp points...driven up through the

bottom of the fixture, so they protrude

no more than about 1/4" above the sur-

face. We prefer screws because they

won’t drive back out when you tap the

workpiece down onto the fixture.

This process transfers your design exactly to

the workpiece you’ve mounted to the oppo-

site (or particleboard) side of the fixture.

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(2) A plaque-shaped picture frame with a

plaque-shaped opening.

(3) A smaller plaque for tole painting or

decoupage.

Figure 16. Routing with a screw-down

fixture.

Screw-down fixtures are the easiest type of

fixture to use and generally take less time to

make than clamp-in fixtures. As shown in

our example, they can be used to duplicate

such things as award or tole painting

plaques, round or oval picture frames and

similar items.

Figure 17. Getting multiple projects from

a single workpiece.

If you’re making a large quantity of dupli-

cate products, assembly and disassembly

time can be reduced by using needlepoint

utility screws to eliminate starter holes, and

a power screwdriver or variable speed re-

versible hand drill with a screwdriver bit to

drive them into position.

Step 1: Screw the appropriate sized guide

pin into the center hole of the Router Table

Insert and align it with the same sized router

bit, as explained previously.

This approach may not work and pilot holes

could be required if the screws are near the

edges of your workpieces. And remember. . .

making several identical fixtures also will

speed up large quantity production time.

Step 2: Drop the fixture groove over the

Table Pin, turn on your router motor, and

set your final depth-of-cut so the bit just

barely breaks through the surface of the par-

ticleboard side of your fixture. Turn off your

router motor.

Step 3: Attach your workpiece to the fixture

NOTE

Step 4: Drop the fixture groove over the

Table Pin, turn on your router motor, plunge

your rotating bit into the workpiece about

1/4" and start moving your fixture (with

workpiece attached) in a counter-clockwise

motion until you’ve completed your initial

cut in the first groove.

In our plaque example, by adding an addi-

tional groove to the fixture (see broken

lines in Figure 17) and making the overall

size of the fixture larger, you can actually

form three projects from a single piece of

stock .

Step 5: Repeat the process for each groove

in your fixture.

(1) A square picture frame with a plaque-

shaped opening.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

Step 6: Remove your completed project

from the fixture, attach a new workpiece

blank and repeat steps 4, 5 and 6.

NOTE

• Apply a coating of furniture PASTE wax

to the Guide Pin, the bottom of your fix-

ture and the insides of the grooves to

ease the movement of the fixture through

your cuts. Be sure to buff out the wax and

not leave blobs in the grooves that could

mix with sawdust and inhibit proper fix-

ture movement.

• When guiding the fixture over the pin,

always move in a counter-clockwise di-

rection, against the rotation of the bit and

maintain a steady force against the same

groove wall (push in against the inner

wall — or pull out against the outer wall)

throughout your cut. Don’t let the fixture

shift from wall-to-wall against the Guide

Pin.

Figure 18. A typical clamp-in fixture.

workpiece insertion and removal times and

not damaging any surface of the workpiece.

Routing over a pin with

a clamp-in fixture

Clamp-in fixtures are best for projects where

only internal cuts are made and two oppos-

ing sides of the workpiece can be left uncut

and used to clamp against. (The clamp and

fixture could be designed to follow a profile

of a workpiece.)

With a clamp-in fixture (See Fig 18), your

workpiece is secured to the non-grooved

(particleboard) side of the fixture by a mov-

able clamp bar. The fixture is then flipped

over and the grooves (in the shape of your

intended finished piece) in the laminate side

of the fixture are traced over the Guide Pin.

Step 1: Screw the appropriate sized guide

pin into the center hole of the Router Table

Insert and align it with the same sized router

bit, as explained previously.

As with a screw-in fixture, this process trans-

fers your design exactly to the workpiece

you’ve mounted to the opposite (or particle-

board) side of the fixture.

Step 2: Drop the fixture groove over the

Table Pin, turn on your router motor, and

set your final depth-of-cut so the bit just

barely breaks through the surface of the par-

ticleboard side of your fixture. Turn off your

router motor.

Clamp-in fixtures take longer to make than

screw-down fixtures and function much like

screw-down fixtures, except that the

workpiece is clamped into rather than

screwed to, the fixture. As a result, they of-

fer the advantages of greatly reduced

Step 3: Clamp your workpiece firmly to the

fixture.

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Step 4: Drop the fixture groove over the

Table Pin, turn on your router motor, plunge

your rotating bit into the workpiece about

1/4" and start moving your fixture (with

workpiece attached) in a counter-clockwise

motion until you’ve completed your initial

cut in the first groove (See Fig. 19).

Figure 20. Construction of a typical

profile fixture.

However, this lack of guiding grooves means

that you must be certain to maintain a con-

stant, steady pressure against the edge of the

fixture throughout the routing process. A

momentary loss of concentration could ruin

your project and result in personal injury.

Here’s the 4-step process for using a profile

fixture:

Figure 19. Routing with a clamp-in fixture.

Step 1: Screw the appropriate sized guide

pin into the center hole of the Router Table

Insert and align it with the same sized router

bit, as explained previously.

Step 5: Repeat the process for each groove

in your fixture.

Step 6: Remove your completed project

from the fixture, clamp a new workpiece

blank into position and repeat steps 4, 5

and 6.

Step 2: Position the workpiece on top of the

fixture with its tip either flush with or pro-

truding 1/8" beyond the end of the fixture

so the router Guide Pin will engage the fix-

ture before the router bit begins cutting the

workpiece. Tap the workpiece firmly with a

mallet or the heel of your hand to “seat” it

properly in the fixture.

Routing against a pin using

a profile fixture

Our example profile fixture shown in Fig-

ure 20 is used to cut the shaped tops of fence

pickets. Similar fixtures could be used for the

tops of wall sconces, shaped fence or porch

rail balusters and similar projects. You can

even make double-ended fixtures, with a dif-

ferent design on each end.

Step 3: Cut one side of your profile. Once

again, it’s important that you be careful to

maintain a constant, steady pressure against

the Guide Pin throughout the cut.

Blank workpieces can be inserted and re-

moved from profile fixtures very rapidly and

they’re usually much easier to make that

screw-in or clamp-in fixtures because they

require no template (they are the template)

and have no grooves.

Step 4: Rotate the fixture and cut the oppo-

site side of your profile. Remove the

workpiece and repeat the process with all

subsequent workpieces.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

Cutting decorative internal and external

edges using a fixture

Step 2. Cut the edge. The routing method

used is similar to routing against a pin. Re-

member to always move the fixture against

the rotation of the bit, and keep the same

wall of the groove against the Guide Pin at

all times. Usually, only two passes are re-

quired to achieve the final depth-of-cut. It’s

OK to make about 75 percent of the cut on

the first pass, and the balance on the second.

Figure 21 shows a finished plaque, still at-

tached to its fixture. Only the top surface of

the edge was cut.

Cutting decorative surface

features using a fixture

An unlimited variety of attractive surface

decorations can be created by guiding an ex-

isting (or additional) groove in your fixture

over a Guide Pin, such as our Figure 22 ex-

ample of cutting a V-groove in the surface

of an oval picture frame.

Figure 21. A plaque with external

decorative edging completed. We used

a 1/2", non-piloted core box bit to form

our example edge.

Step 1. Set your router bit to produce the

desired depth-of-cut. To do this, use your

fixture to cut out a practice sample of your

finished product. Be sure it’s the same thick-

ness as the finished piece you plan to make.

Use this practice sample to make a few cuts

until you achieve your desired profile.

NOTE

When using a fixture to guide your

workpiece through decorative edging cuts,

you can alter the profiles produced by

changing to a Guide Pin that’s smaller than

your groove and/or changing the side of the

fixture groove you guide against.

Figure 22. Using a V-groove bit to cut

a decorative surface feature in an

oval picture frame.

During operation, it’s important that you al-

ways guide your fixture against the same

side of the groove throughout your cut. If

you’re using the outside edge of the groove,

you must pull against the Guide Pin as you

make your cut. If you’re using the inside

edge of the groove, you must push against

the Guide Pin as you make you cut.

Remember. . . changing groove sides in mid-

cut will alter the profile of the cut and ruin

your edge.

Since the entire bit is in contact with the

workpiece while making surfacing cuts, you

must always use a Guide Pin that’s the same

size as the groove in your fixture for safety

reasons. As a result, the profile of your cut

is controlled entirely by altering the depth-

of-cut of the bit. Decorative surfacing cuts

cannot be made with a piloted router bit

unless a straight bit is used first to form a

groove that the pilot can ride in.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

rative cuts with non-piloted profile Bits.

Here’s the step-by-step process.

CONVENTIONAL

ROUTING OPERATIONS

WITH THE OVERARM

ROUTER

The Shopsmith Overarm Pin Router is also

well suited for more ordinary routing

operations . . . functioning in a very similar

fashion to more conventional under-table

router set-ups. There are a few differences:

1. Set up your Overarm Router, following

the “General guidelines for overarm

routing” on page 18 in the front section

of this Manual.

2. Once you get started, always set your

depth-of-cut to make your first pass

very shallow. Doing so will give you far

better control over the accuracy of your

cut, since the rotating bit is much less

likely to grab or pull your workpiece off

your planned profile when your cuts are

shallow.

• With the Overarm Router, your rotating

bit is almost always in plain view, provid-

ing an added measure of accuracy.

• Changing your depth-of cut (and seeing

your change as you make it) is a much

simpler matter with an Overarm Router.

For maximum efficiency, under-table rout-

ing requires a special router lifting device.

Such devices often expensive, adding a

couple of hundred dollars to the cost of a

router table.

NOTE

In some cases, your lateral depth-of-cut

must also be adjusted to produce the pro-

file you desire. With straight-edged work-

pieces, this can be accomplished by slid-

ing your guiding Fence in or out. With ir-

regular-shaped edges, just change the size

of the Guide Pin you’re using.

• The improved visibility of your work-in-

process also makes forming stopped cuts

(such as travel slots, grooves, dadoes and

mortises) much easier and safer with an

Overarm Router.

3. Screw the appropriate sized Guide Pin

into the threaded hole in the center of

the Pin Routing Table Insert and tighten

it securely.

ROUTING AGAINST A TABLE PIN

Against-the-Guide-Pin routing is usually

performed with a non-piloted router bit – on

a workpiece with irregular or rounded edges

that cannot be guided by the Fences. That’s

because the job of the pilots (solid or bear-

ing-types) on piloted Bits are to control your

lateral depth-of-cut . . . and the profile they’re

making.

4. Position the Table Insert as shown in

Figure 23 and screw the 1/4" Starter Pin

into the threaded hole just to the left of

the center hole in the Plate. Tighten se-

curely. When installing the Table In-

sert, the Starter Pin must always be po-

sitioned in the Insert so it is to the left

of the Guide Pin.

Since non-piloted Bits have no pilots to con-

trol their lateral depths-of-cut, you must rely

on Guide Pins to control this for you. Some

typical against-the-Pin operations include

creating special rabbet cuts (usually with

straight bits or slot cutters) and making deco-

5. Prepare to make your cut. Lower the

Router into the position and lock it se-

curely. Turn on your Router motor. Rest-

ing the edge of your workpiece against

the Starter Pin, ease it gradually into the

rotating bit to start your cut. Continue

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

With the Overarm Router, the process is al-

most identical . . . with two differences:

GUIDE

• First and foremost, with the Overarm

Router, your hands are used to grip the

workpiece instead of the router motor.

This provides improved visibility of the

cut and allows you to rout the edges of

workpieces that may be too small or

oddly-shaped to grip properly with

clamping devices.

STARTER

Figure 23. Use the Pin Routing Table Insert

when routing against a pin.

moving your workpiece into the bit un-

til the edge of your stock also makes

contact with the Guide Pin.

WARNING

Once contact is made with the Guide

Pin, move the workpiece around and

away from the Starter Pin, maintaining

contact with the Guide Pin at all times

until you’ve completed your cut.

NEVER attempt to work with a small

piece of stock less than 12" x 12" or that

puts your hands closer than 3" from

the guard.

Re-position the Depth Control Handle

for each subsequent pass until your de-

sired final depth-of-cut is reached. Once

you’ve completed the final pass, loosen

the Depth Control Handle, raise the

Router, re-tighten the Handle and turn

off the Motor. Only when the Motor has

stopped completely should you remove

and inspect the workpiece.

• And secondly, with the Overarm Router,

your stock is supported by the Worktable,

while your vertical depth-of-cut is con-

trolled with micro-precision by the up-

down action of the Arm.

Piloted router Bits come in two styles: 1) Bits

with solid steel pilots . . . or. . . 2) Bits with a

ball bearing pilot.

When making cuts with a piloted Bit, your

up-down depth-of-cut — and the number

of cuts you’ll have to make to form the

complete profile — can vary, based on two

factors:

USING PILOTED BITS FOR

DECORATIVE EDGING

Cutting decorative edges on workpieces with

piloted bits is a common operation for a

hand-held router. With this operation, the Bit

pilot controls your lateral depth-of-cut, while

the vertical depth-of-cut is controlled by the

plunge mechanism of your hand-held router

(in the case of plunge-style routers), or by

changing the height relationship between the

router motor and its base through some

other method.

• The amount of stock that must be re-

moved to produce the profile you want.

If you’re forming an edge on thick stock,

you may not be able to cut a full profile

all at once without workpiece burning or

tear-out. In these cases, you’ll have to

make more than one pass . . . l owering the

Arm with each subsequent pass until the

profile you desire is achieved.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

• The hardness of the stock you’re cutting.

If you’re working with hard maple, oak,

ash, cherry, hickory or other tough stock,

it may be necessary to make two or three

passes to produce your full profile with-

out burning or tear-out.

your cut. When the Bit pilot contacts the

workpiece edge, gradually rotate the

workpiece off the Starter Pin and con-

tinue to move the workpiece against the

rotation of the bit, pushing steadily

against the Bit Pilot, which now serves

as your guide. (See Figure 24). If a sec-

ond pass is required, repeat the proce-

dure until the desired profile is

achieved.

Performing these operations is basically the

same, whether you’re cutting an external

edge or an internal edge.

External edges

1. Set up your Overarm Router, following

the “General guidelines for overarm

routing” on page 18 in the front section

of this Manual and install the Bit of your

choice.

2. With your router motor turned off,

move the workpiece next to the Bit and

adjust your up-down depth-of-cut

NOTE

Figure 24. Cutting a decorative external

edge on an oval picture frame using a

solid pilot router bit.

In some cases, your lateral depth-of-cut

must also be adjusted to produce the pro-

file you desire. In the case of a bearing-pi-

loted Bit, this is accomplished by chang-

ing the size of the bearing. Most Bit manu-

facturers offer a variety of bearing pilots

with the same I.D. (internal diameter) and

differing O.D.’s (outside diameters). With

a solid-piloted Bit, the lateral depth-of-cut

cannot be altered.

Internal edges

To decorate the internal edges of projects, fol-

low steps one through three, as outlined

above . . . then move to step four below.

4. Move the workpiece away from the Bit

area, turn on the motor and lock every-

thing in position to make your first pass.

Resting the internal edge of your

workpiece against the Starter Pin, pull

it against the Pin. Maintain a steady

pulling force against the starter pin un-

til the Bit pilot contacts the workpiece

edge, then move it gradually off the

Starter Pin and against the rotation of

the Bit, as its pilot takes over as your

guide. If additional passes are required,

repeat this procedure until the desired

profile is achieved.

3. Screw the 1/4" diameter Starter Pin into

the threaded Starter Pin hole in the Pin

Routing Table Insert and tighten it se-

curely.

4. Move the workpiece away from the Bit

area, turn on the motor and lock every-

thing in position to make your first pass.

Resting the external edge of your

workpiece against the Starter Pin, ease

it gradually into the rotating Bit to start

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

round workpieces, build a special V-shaped

Fence like the one shown in Figure 25

below.

USING NON-PILOTED BITS

FOR DECORATIVE EDGING

This method is basically the same as for

decorative external or internal edging with

a piloted Bit. However, since these Bits have

no pilot to control your lateral depth-of-cut,

you’ll have to rely on a Guide Pin (of a

smaller diameter than your router Bit) to

control this for you.

One half the difference between the Guide

Pin diameter and the outside diameter of

your router Bit will be your lateral depth-

of-cut.

If using a smaller Guide Pin fails to produce

the desired results on a piece of scrap stock,

set the machine up so the Guide Pin and the

Bit are offset about the same distance as the

lateral depth-of-cut you want.

Figure 25. A shop-made, wooden

V-shaped Fence like the one shown here

is used for edging round workpieces

with non-piloted router Bits.

MAKING RABBET CUTS

Re-position the edge of the workpiece

against the Guide Pin, turn on your router

motor and gradually move the workpiece

from the Guide Pin into the Bit, taking a very

light pass as first.

Rabbets are edge or step cuts for such things

as the inside back edges of picture frames

(See Fig. 26).

NOTE

Since the bit and Guide Pin are not in per-

fect alignment during this operation, it’s

important that you always keep the

workpiece in the same plane throughout

the cut. If you begin by feeding the stock

into the Bit from a position in front of the

Guide Pin and end by feeding the stock

into the bit from a position to the left or

right of the Guide Pin, you will change

your lateral depth-of-cut and not achieve a

smooth, consistent profile. It’s a good idea

to make some practice cuts before attempt-

ing this operation on an actual project piece

Figure 26. Cutting a rabbet in the back side

of a round picture frame.

This method is basically the same as cutting

decorative internal edges using a pilot

bit . . . except . . . a large diameter straight Bit

and a Guide Pin are used.

When forming decorative edges on straight

workpieces with a non-piloted Bit, use your

Overarm Router Fence to control your lat-

eral depth-of-cut. If you’re working with

The following equation will help you deter-

mine the size Bit and Guide Pin to use for

producing a rabbet of a specific size.

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Bit dia. minus Guide Pin dia. = rabbet width

For example: A 3/4" diameter straight bit mi-

nus a 1/4" diameter Guide Pin equals 1/2".

1/2" divided by 2 equals a 1/4 wide rabbet.

STRAIGHT-LINE ROUTING

To perform straight-line routing, you will

need to use the two-piece aluminum Over-

arm Router Fence that came with your ma-

chine.

This fence can be used for decorative edg-

ing of projects as well as for jointing the

edges of workpieces for assembly, making

grooves, dadoes, rabbets, stop cuts and other

joints in straight workpieces.

Figure 27. When removing the entire edge

of a workpiece, the two halves of the

Fence must be offset (A). When removing

only a portion of the edge, the two halves

of the Fence must be perfectly aligned

with one another (B).

The position of the fence is determined by

its intended use. If your operation calls for

removing the entire edge of a workpiece, it

is important that the outfeed side of the

Fence be moved forward to provide ad-

equate support for the stock after its edge

has been removed (See Fig. 27).

CAUTION

If you’re using a Bit with a pilot, the pilot

must be behind the plane of the Fence’s

contact surface in order to prevent inter-

ference with the leading edge of the

workpiece.

If you’re not going to be removing the en-

tire edge of the workpiece, attach a one-piece

shop-made face to the two-piece face; or ad-

just both sides of your two-piece Fence so

that they are exactly in-line, with no offset.

Follow all “General guidelines for overarm

routing” on page 18 in the front section of

this Manual for installing and aligning your

router Bit and Guard.

NOTE

Your Overarm Router Table contains eight

#10-24 threaded holes in its surface to ac-

commodate the included Router Fence. It

also includes four #10-24 x 1" plastic Knobs,

four plastic Spacer/Bushings and four #10

Washers for attaching the Fence to the

Table.

Turn on your router the motor and feed the

workpiece from left to right, maintaining

pressure against the Fence and Bit through-

out the cut.

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WARNING

Depending on the size of your

workpiece, you may have to use a push

stick (see Fig. 28), push block (see Fig.

29) or Feather Board(s) (see Fig. 30) in

order to keep you hands at a safe dis-

tance when feeding the workpiece

against the Fence and Bit.

Figure 29. Cross-grain routing using

a push block.

NOTE

For some operations, you may need to use a

featherboard to hold your workpiece down

to provide additional accuracy and safety. To

do this, you will need to build a vertical

Fence extension with a 3/4" wide groove to

accommodate the Shopsmith Featherboard

(see Figure 30).

LEFT FENCE BOARD

5/32" DIA. x 5/8" DEEP HOLES ON

BACK FACE FOR #12 SCREWS AND

WASHERS. ALIGN MOUNTING HOLES

WITH FENCE SLOTS.

END

VIEW

FACE VIEW

Figure 30. Straight-line routing using

feather boards mounted to wooden

fence boards and push sticks.

Figure 28. Straight-line routing using

a push stick.

routing” on page 18 in the front section

of this Manual and install the Bit of your

choice.

CUTTING GROOVES AND DADOES

Grooves are cuts made with the wood grain,

while dado cuts are made across the grain.

Both of these straight line cuts must be per-

formed using a Fence.

2. Install the two-piece Overarm Router

Fence, as described in the straight-line

routing section above. For this opera-

tion, both halves of the Fence should be

installed in perfect alignment with one

another.

Grooves

1. Set up your Overarm Router, following

the “General guidelines for overarm

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

3. Select and install the appropriate

straight router Bit and set your depth-

of-cut. It’s best to make a trial cut in a

piece of same-sized scrap stock first, to

“prove” the location and depth of your

cut, before cutting your actual work-

piece. Adjustments to the position of

your groove can be made by moving

your MARK V Worktable in and out.

Similar adjustments can be made for cre-

ating odd-width grooves (or dadoes) by

starting with a Bit that’s narrower than

your intended groove or dado, then mov-

ing the MARK V Worktable in or out to

widen your cut.

Figure 32. Cutting a dado across

the grain with a wooden pusher. Guide

stock against the Fence.

4. Turn on your router motor and feed the

workpiece from left to right (against the

rotation of the Bit), maintaining a steady

pressure against the fence during the cut

(See Fig. 31).

workpiece, be sure your wooden push block

has a 90° corner.

Place one of the block’s 90° edges against the

Fence and the other against your

workpiece . . . then use the block to push the

stock through the cut, as shown in Fig. 32.

NOTE

If you’re planning to cut a dado that is to

be at an angle other that 90°, you’ll need to

make a push block with one corner cut at

the same angle as your intended dado.

Then, position one edge of that corner

against the Fence and the other against your

stock as you guide it through the cut.

Figure 31. Cutting a groove with the grain

by guiding it against the Overarm

Router Fence.

Dadoes

WARNING

The dado-cutting process is identical to the

process for cutting grooves, except that you

will need to make a wood back-up block to

hold the workpiece perpendicular to the

Fence and guide it through the cut. If your

cut is to be 90° to the edge of your

Always use push sticks, push blocks,

and similar safety devices to keep you

hands out of harm’s way when mak-

ing your cuts.

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

Making stopped cuts

using the Fence

A stopped cut is any cut made in a

workpiece that does not go completely from

end-to-end or from side-to-side. Some ex-

amples of stopped cuts include mortises,

travel slots and similar cuts. If your project

calls for square-ended cuts, the rounded ends

left by routing will need to be squared with

a chisel once you’ve finished.

Start by following steps one through three

outlined above for cutting grooves and dadoes.

Figure 33. Making a stopped cut for

a mortise.

4. Limiting the length of your cut. Mark

your workpiece where the stop cut is to

start and end. Clamp a stop block or a

wooden handscrew clamp onto the

Fence to limit the length of your cut. If

you’re using a stop block, position the

block above the worktable so that the

sawdust will not be trapped at the side

of the stop block (See Fig. 33). If the cut

is to be in the center of the workpiece

and the workpiece is short enough, use

a stop block to limit the travel at both

ends.

6. Turn on the router motor, lower it into

your stock, lock it firmly in position,

then move the workpiece against the ro-

tation of the bit and through the cut un-

til it contacts the stop block. If your cut

is to be deep, multiple passes will be re-

quired.

Repairing furniture and veneers

Another handy use for your Shopsmith

Overarm Router is the repair of damaged

furniture and veneers. This is accomplished

by routing out the damaged area, making a

plug to match and then gluing it into the

routed area.

If the piece is longer than the Fence,

screw a suitable extension board to the

Fence . . . then clamp the second stop

block to that extension board. Another

option for long workpieces is to clamp

your stop block directly to your

workpiece so that it will limit your cut

by engaging the edge of the Router

Table.

1. Install the two-piece Overarm Router

Fence, as you would for any straight-

line routing operation, positioning the

faces of both Fences in perfect alignment

with one another.

5. With the router motor turned off, posi-

tion the workpiece so the bit will be at

your starting mark.

2. Select a straight router Bit that’s larger

in diameter than your damaged area is

wide. If the damaged area is wider than

any of your Bits, plan on making mul-

tiple passes.

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

3. Rout out a slot. To repair damage such

as that shown in Figure 34, rout out a

rounded-end slot that’s longer and

wider than the damaged area (See Fig.

35). Set your depth-of-cut to be only as

deep as the damaged wood. If you’re

repairing a surface defect on a veneer,

cut only to the depth of the veneer.

case of our thin panel cabinet door), you

can turn the damaged piece over and

use a pencil to trace around the outline

directly onto your workpiece . . . rather

than using the tracing paper approach.

As with the tracing approach, you

should cut your plug about 1/16" larger

than your routed slot.

5: Sand the plug to size. Use a Disc

Sander to sand around the edges of the

plug with your MARK V Worktable

tilted to about a 2° angle so it will be

tapered slightly and smaller at the bot-

tom than it is at the top. Start by sand-

ing it to within about 1/64" of your pen-

cil line. Be careful! If you sand it too

far, you’ll have to make the plug over

again (See Fig. 36).

Figure 34. A damaged area on a

cabinet door.

Figure 36. Cut and sand a plug to fit.

Stop frequently and test the plug for

size to see if it fits. Continue sanding

the edges of the plug until it drops into

the opening and its top surface rests

flush with the surface of the item you’re

repairing.

Figure 35. Rout a slot to remove the

damaged area.

4. Make the plug. Tape a piece of tracing

paper over the slot and pencil an out-

line about 1/16" larger all around than

the slot to allow for sanding your plug

to size. Transfer the outline to a piece of

the same species of wood. Try to match

the wood grain as closely as possible.

6. Install and finish the plug. Glue the

plug into position. If necessary, use glue

or plastic wood to fill in any voids on

the backside of your restored item left

by the plug’s taper. Use a test stick

method to stain or finish the plug until

it matches the original item perfectly.

Cut out your plug with your Scroll Saw

or Bandsaw. If your slot has to go all

the way through your wood (as in the

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

STRUCTURAL JOINTS

The versatile Shopsmith Overarm Pin Router

makes easy work of forming all the joints

you need for structural framework- with

greater accuracy and finer precision than

most other tools. Here are some examples

of the joints that can be formed with the

Overarm Router (See Fig. 37).

CARING FOR YOUR

SHOPSMITH OVERARM

PIN ROUTER

As is the case with all Shopsmith tools, your

Overarm Router is designed to deliver years

of reliable service with a minimum of main-

tenance. However, like any other power tool,

it performs better and safer if you maintain

it properly.

WARNING

Always turn off and unplug your

router motor before you begin any

maintenance procedure.

Before you begin any maintenance proce-

dure, be sure that the motor is unplugged.

Then remove the router Bit and any other

accessories, Fences or fixtures that are

mounted on the Overarm Router.

CLEANING

As you work, sawdust will accumulate on

the Overarm Router and this residue can af-

fect its performance. We suggest that you

clean the Overarm Router and motor fre-

quently with your shop vacuum. Use

brushes on all surfaces and crevice tool at-

tachments to get into the tightest spots.

Figure 37. Structural joints that can

be formed with the Shopsmith Overarm

Pin Router.

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

After vacuuming, clean all major metal parts • The router motor holds its position when

of the Overarm Router (except the router

motor) with mineral spirits to remove all

dirt, grease, and any built-up wood pitch.

the Depth Control Handle is unscrewed

• The Worktable slides forward or backward

without side play and locks securely in po-

sition

Use a clean, slightly damp cloth to wipe all

residue from the Guard and Worktable. • The router Bit and Guide Pin (if being

Clean your router motor as instructed in the

router owners manual.

used) are in alignment.

If any part of the Overarm Router requires

alignment or adjustment, follow the proce-

dures in the Overarm Router’s assembly,

setup & alignment, and adjustment sections.

WAXING

After a through cleaning, wax and buff the

Overarm Router’ Worktable surface. Apply

the wax sparingly, then buff it thoroughly. If

you apply too much wax or don’t buff it

thoroughly, the wax will mix with the saw-

dust, impede the movement of parts, and

leave residue on the stock.

STORING YOUR

OVERARM ROUTER

In normal use, regular cleaning, lubricating

and waxing will prevent the ferrous parts of

the Overarm Router from rusting. However,

if the machine is to be stored for an extended

period or under unusually humid or corro-

sive conditions, spray all ferrous parts in-

cluding pins, bits and accessories with a rust-

inhibiting light oil. Remove this oil with min-

eral spirits and re-wax the Overarm Router

before using it again.

CAUTION

Do not wax or use solvents on plastic

parts.

RE-ALIGNING AND RE-ADJUSTING

ADJUSTING THE BRASS GIB

Proper alignment and adjustment of all ma-

jor parts of your Overarm Router are essen-

tial for good woodworking results. Check

that:

If you find that your router motor fails to

hold its position when the Depth Control

Handle is released (unscrewed), adjust the

Brass Gib, following the instructions in the

Alignment and Adjustment section of this

Manual.

• The Depth Control Handle works prop-

erly

• The Dovetail Slide moves freely without

binding

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

MAINTENANCE

The maintenance intervals listed here are

based on normal operation and assume that

you will be careful not to abuse your Over-

arm Router. Obviously, if you work the unit

unusually hard, you’ll need to maintain it

more often. If an unusual noise or vibration

develops, turn off the motor immediately

and check to see what could be causing the

problem. Do not operate the routing system

again until you have corrected the cause of

the unusual noise or vibration.

As needed: Have your router Bits sharp-

ened.

Every 5 hours of running time: Clean the

Overarm Router thoroughly. Check align-

ments and adjustments. Check tightness of

all critical hardware.

Every 6 months or as needed: Clean and

wax the Overarm Router

To estimate running times, use this rule:

The average woodworker will use power

tools only 10 percent of the total time spent

in the shop, at the most. You may not use

your Overarm Router as much as other

power tools. If you work in your shop for

25 hours, you’ve probably logged less than

an hour of running time on your Overarm

Router.

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Problems with your Overarm Router usually have simple solutions. Under normal use, you should

rarely have to service the Tool. Most problems can be corrected by simple maintenance, alignment,

adjustment or a change in your work habits. This Troubleshooting Guide has been developed to

help you diagnose and remedy any problems which may arise when using your Shopsmith Over-

arm Router.

Problem

Possible Cause

Solution

Poor quality cut

Depth-of-cut excessive

Feed rate too fast

Router bit dull

Reduce depth-of-cut on each pass

Feed workpiece into the bit at a slower rate

Sharpen or replace bit

Overarm or motor loose,

causing “wobble”

Tighten Overarm on MARK V Way Tubes, Gibs

or Router Motor Clamp

Workpiece “burning”

Dull Router Bit

Sharpen or replace Bit

Motor running too fast

Slow down your variable speed Router Motor or

purchase an electronic motor speed control for

single-speed Routers

Guide Pin and Router

Bit work out of alignment

Router Table – to MARK V

Table mounting screws loose

Tighten screws – re-align Pin & Bit

Table Insert loose

Arm Clamps loose

Tighten Table Insert - re-align Pin & Bit

Tighten Arm Clamps around MARK V Way Tubes

– re-align Pin & Bit

Motor Clamp and Guard loose

Tighten Motor Clamp and Guard - re-align Pin & Bit

Tighten nut (44)

Depth Control Handle won’t

hold position when tightened

Loose nut (44) on left side

of Clutch Shaft

Poor seating surface on

Control Handle

Unscrew Depth Control Handle from Clutch Hub and

examine seating surface at end of Handle shaft. If

surface is rounded, file a new, FLAT seating surface

on end of Handle shaft.

Dovetail Slide sticks or grabs

Brass Gib adjusted too tightly

Loosen Gib adjustment setscrews (26)

Depth Control casting

won’t release

Ball Plunger (41) screwed in

too far – or defective

Unscrew Ball Plunger in quarter-turn increments until

casting releases from and engages groove in Depth

Control casting shaft, replace Ball Plunger if defective.

Walls of your cuts are

“stepped”

Worktable and Router Bit are

Adjust MARK V Worktable

not perpendicular to one another

Router motor overheats

Motor too close to Deflector (20)

Loosen motor and raise to allow 1/8" clearance

between bottom of router motor and Deflector

Overworking motor

Stop and allow motor to cool

Reduce depth-of-cut

Taking too heavy a cut

Feeding stock too rapidly

through the cut

Slow down your feed rate

Depth-of cut changes while

making a cut

Bit loose in Router motor

Tighten Bit

Router motor loose in Motor

Clamp (1 & 9)

Tighten Clamp, by tightening nuts (7)

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MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

555970

Where to Phone — Shopsmith maintains toll-free

telephone numbers during normal business

hours.

How to Order Parts

To order replacement parts, first consult the Parts

List. Then write or call for current price informa-

tion.

For service call:

1-800-762-7555 (Continental U.S., Hawaii, Alaska,

Puerto Rico and U.S. Virgin Islands)

How to Return Parts

To place an order call:

1-800-543-7586 (Continental U.S., Hawaii, Alaska,

Puerto Rico and U.S. Virgin Islands)

Should you need to return the equipment, call

Customer Services for packing and shipping in-

formation.

When you write or call, tell us your Customer

Number and the Date Code of your equipment.

(Your customer number appears on the invoice

and the mailing labels of the literature we send

you. The date code is stamped on the equipment.)

Customer Services

Where to Write — Send inquiries to:

Shopsmith, Inc.

Customer Services

3931 Image Drive

Dayton, Ohio 45414

Please write the numbers in the space provided

here.

Customer No. _____________________________

Date Code ________________________________

Email — [email protected]

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555970

MARK V – MOUNTED OVERARM PIN ROUTER

– NOTES –

The contents of this publication may not be reproduced either in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner.

Shopsmith^®is a registered trademark of Shopsmith, Inc. Patents pending on the design of the Shopsmith Overarm Router.

845556 Rev. A 6/05

6530 Poe Avenue

Printed in U.S.A.

Dayton, OH 45414-2591

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