SV Sound
OWNERS’
GUIDE
SVS PB12-NSD/2 Powered Box,
Dual 12” Plus Driver Subwoofer
Contents:
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Page 1 Welcome
Page 2 About your new SVS Subwoofer
Pages 4- 7 Setup, integration, and calibration
Pages 7- 8 Powered box amp features
Pages 9 - 10 Variable tuning
Pages 11 - 12 Bass demos
Page 13 Home Theater Terms
Pages 14 - 15 Notes
Page 16 Warranty
Last update: 31 August, 2007
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SV Sound
About your SVS Subwoofer
Other subwoofers might look like them — but virtually none work like them.
Not at this price. SVS’s are decidedly different, in how they are designed, built, sold,
and even in the exceptional customer service after the sale. No surprise then, you could
have spent much more and still not come close to the value and performance our
Powered Box lines provide. But what makes a subwoofer an SVS?
Quality parts, sane prices. You might be surprised at how inexpensive the
components in most not-so-inexpensive subwoofers might be. At SVS we scour the
earth for the best, most cost effective parts (the few we don’t make ourselves), and
meld them into finely tuned designs that define high performance home theater and
music bass. Still, cost is always the second consideration at SVS. Want woofers,
amps, or even binding posts? We’ve tested and discarded plenty that didn’t meet our
tough standards. If we use it, whatever “it” is, you know it made the grade.
Get “cube-ular”. Many subwoofers we’ve seen are simply poorly made. We did a
host of studies that optimized the materials, the size, and even the enclosure finish to
ensure a rigid design that was still compact for its performance and able to take the
abuse your family and friends can dish out. Either made in the USA or imported, like
most other SVS parts, our cabinet is no ordinary box. Selling direct means your sub,
and not glossy ads, get first priority. SVS is quality you can hear.
Stable downward firing woofer. Our contemporary enclosure design is one plus,
but we’ve also taken great lengths to allow for downward firing woofers. Coupled
with our unique base-plates, which minimize driver reactive forces, you’ll find our subs
can take a tremendous amount of power and remain rock solid. Compliant rubber feet
on allow for stable placement on a variety of surfaces. No rattling, or buzzing allowed!
Custom low turbulence port designs. When you listen to your trend-setting
ported sub you’ll hear (and feel) bass like never before, with a exceptionally low noise
and distortion. Huge, patented flared vents make the difference. One DVD or music
CD and you’ll realize something special went into this product.
Stylish, and understated. From the hand-finished exterior, to the elegant base,
you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to lose your sub in a corner. SVS’s aren’t tiny, but
this is one of those times size does matter. There are countless brands of “wannabe”
subs out there. Fortunately, you didn’t just unpack one.
World-class power. Our exclusive Canadian-built amps are manufactured with a
level of fit and finish, and a collection of features and power practically unheard of at
this price. Did we mention power? It’s there in spades (though we rate them
conservatively). And SVS starts with efficient subwoofer designs which don’t require
significant levels of power-robbing equalization to go low and flat. So our amps can
work harder at reproducing low frequencies, instead of struggling against a lack of
enclosure space (the bane of clean, deep bass). As a result, we don’t require the
megawatts some subs do, instead running cool and reliable in our vented enclosures.
These digital hybrid amps run so cool, we can even dispense with old-fashioned
“cooling fins”!
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Setup, calibrating and integration
W
hat’s to know? Well, first of all, setting up an SVS Subwoofer is
pretty darn easy. There are a few key things to get right if you want to
get the most out of your new equipment however!
U
npacking. You’re probably eager to fire up your sub (we’re the
same way), but take time to carefully unpack your sub. Set the box and
other protective shipping materials aside; saving them in case you ever
need to return the subwoofer for any reason. Fold your box flat for
storage even.
L
ocation. They say it’s “all about location”, right? It’s the same with
setting up your subwoofer. So, where to put it? Go for a corner if you
can, and avoid putting your sub where it might adjoin large open areas
Studies have shown the deepest and flattest bass response is typically
attained when a subwoofer is placed within a few feet of one of your
.
room’s corners. Whether you put the sub in front or to the rear of your
seating area usually makes surprisingly little audible difference. Deep
movie and music bass, like that from Dolby Digital (DD) “5.1 channel”
DVDs and digital audio is largely non-directional. You can’t tell where
it is coming from, even though you can hear, and feel it.
Hook-up (see fig. 1). There are a variety of ways to configure your
new sub. Usually, a simple mono, shielded 75 Ohm A/V RCA type
cable (a.) is used to take the subwoofer output of your DD/DTS
surround sound receiver (b.) and feed the low-level input of the SVS’s
amp. There is no need to “split” the signal going to the sub (c.). You
can feed either one of the two amp inputs, it doesn’t matter, right or left.
NOTE: Stop now if you aren’t
TOTALLY familiar with your re-
ceiver’s manual. Ensure all power
to your equipment is off when
making these connections. Also, be cer-
tain your power outlet can handle a
minimum of 700 watts. (Use of
(a.)
“convenience outlets” on receivers are
not recommended for your SVS).
(c.)
(b.
DD/DTS Processor/Receiver
(Subwoofer “Out”)
Fig. 1
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SV Sound
More Setup, calibrating and integration
If you are running a pair of SVS Subwoofers (Fig. 2), you will need to
use a standard “Y” cable adapter (d.) The best adaptor to use for this task
has one male RCA connection and two female RCA outputs. (Radio
Shack ® stocks them.) From the “Y” cable you can run a standard 75
Ohm RCA to RCA signal cable (e.) to each sub, thus “splitting” the Low
Frequency Effects (LFE) and other bass signals from your receiver and
effectively feeding both subwoofers with the same signal.
NOTE: Now is a good time to select
if you want “ON” (always on) or
“AUTO ON” which turns your sub
on only when a bass signal is present.
“Y” cable/splitter from
receiver
(e.)
(d.)
DD/DTS Processor/Receiver
(Subwoofer “Out”)
Fig. 2
“
Calibration”: This isn’t only for tech minded folks, it’s critical to a
proper configuration of your home theater sound system. Fortunately,
adjusting channel balance (or, calibration) is as easy to do as it is impor-
tant. The first order of business is making sure your DD/DTS surround-
sound system is set up properly. We recommend you consult your audio/
video receiver (or processor) manual to refresh on the procedures to do
this. Generally, this requires ensuring the receiver’s test tones, or a spe-
cial test disk (like Ovation Software’s Avia DVD) signals play back at the
same volume from each of your system’s full range speakers and the sub.
(More on sub level in a second). Skip to page 7 (“Powered Box Fea-
tures”) if you aren’t familiar with your sub’s amp, and come back to cali-
bration.
Some things to check as you get ready to calibrate:
•
Are your speakers set to the correct “size”? Your receiver/
processor should allow you to indicate if your speakers are “Small” or
“Large”. Selecting the size accordingly will ensure bass goes to most appro-
priate speakers, and use the subwoofer correctly too. In most instances set-
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Page 6
ting ALL speakers to “Small” works best. Let your sub make the bass! Also, is
your subwoofer turned “ON”? We don’t mean “is your subwoofer amplifier
on?” (that’ll be important later too) but rather, is your receiver sending a bass
signal to your sub amp? This can only happen if you say “Yes” (or “ON”) in the
“Subwoofer” selection during the all-important setup menu of any typical Dolby
Digital/DTS capable receiver. If you have a choice of “crossover points” for your
bass, usually “80Hz” works best, unless you have unusually small main speakers.
•
•
Is your receiver connected to the sub amp? Use a well-shielded RCA
cable (sometimes called a “patch cord”) to connect the subwoofer output of your
DD/DTS receiver to either input jack of your subwoofer’s dedicated amplifier. As
mentioned earlier, you’ll need to “split” the bass signal with a “Y Cable” if you
bought a pair of subs. You only need feed one of the two inputs (Right or Left) of
any single Powered Box SVS however.
Is your Radio Shack ® sound pressure level (SPL) me-
ter ready? This tool is absolutely essential to proper home
theater audio setup. It’s akin to a tire pressure gauge for your car
(you don’t set your tires by “feel” right?). Set the meter to “Slow”
and “C-weighting” (and turn the dial to 70 or 80dB depending on
your test tone source). Haven’t got the meter yet? Order one
from SVS. We prefer the analog instead of the digital display
model.
Getting ready to start now: Make sure your receiver/processor master volume is
set at “00 dB” or some other easy to remember reference level. Finally, ensure your
SVS’s volume control is set no more than 1/4 to 1/3rd up at first. It’s also critical to
check the subwoofer level control of your surround receiver before you begin the test
tones. Set it to no higher than about one quarter of the way up to start (for instance that
will be –5dB if your receiver’s subwoofer channel levels have typical limits running
from -10 dB to +10 dB) . Your LFE “trim”, if you have one, should be set to 0dB to
start (that’s full up) but this can be dialed down later to tame peaks if needed. IMPOR-
TANT: Turn off ANY sound-field processing modes, “peak limiters”, “mid-night
mode” etc. Set the SPL meter to “Slow” and “C-weighting” (turn the range dial to
either 70 or 80dB).
Now play your receiver's internal test tones so you have something to
measure with your SPL meter. Better yet, buy a calibration disk, such as the Ova-
tion’s Avia test DVD. A test disk’s tones ensure your entire signal path, from the DVD
player to your speakers, is set correctly. Whatever you use, when the tones start alter-
nating from speaker to speaker (watch your sound meter now), set each full range
speaker’s level to about 75 dB (or 85dB if using Avia), by using the receiver’s dedi-
cated channel controls (leaving receiver’s master volume the same). We recommend
you turn down the receiver’s subwoofer output level before you significantly lower
your sub’s volume/gain control. This helps keep input distortion to a minimum. You
should not set the receiver’s subwoofer level much lower than -5 dB however, since
some adjustment room is needed to lower bass as needed later. If your subwoofer read-
ing is still too high then turn down the sub’s amp volume a little with each run.
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Page 7
SV Sound
But what’s “too high”?? Tastes vary, and so do movie soundtracks, but your SVS
is capable of tremendous levels of low distortion, low frequency bass — far more than
most commercial subs. Take advantage of this, especially if you like action movies with
lots of “.1” channel (LFE) action, and give the sub a bit more “bump” during calibration
(also known as running the sub “hot”). Keep in mind too that the human ear is relatively
insensitive to low frequencies. This, coupled with the fact most folks don’t watch mov-
ies at Dolby Digital theater reference level , means turning the bass up a few decibels
usually yields a better movie sound experience.
What sub levels do we recommend? If you watch movies at relatively moderate
sound levels, a good start is a range of +2dB to +3dB above your other channels (as
measured with your sound meter). This means the test tone will waiver about 75-78 dB
for the subwoofer portion of the calibration run (88dB with Avia). (Note: You may
want to rotate the sound meter SPL meter dial to 80dB to get a good reading with these
higher levels.) Note too that many modern surround sound receivers allow a variety of
different subwoofer level settings, depending on the “listening mode” you are in. With
“Dolby Digital” as your “mode” use the above calibration routine. You may well find
that CD “Stereo” music calls for a lower bass settings. The above is a guide… experi-
ment some. The louder your master volume though, the more you should back off the
sub level to compensate. Avoid your woofer “bottoming”, resulting in a loud “clack”!
Location and measurement. You should take the above measurements from your
typical preferred seat for watching movies. Be advised, strong bass levels can vary sig-
nificantly simply by moving a few feet. Such is the nature of long wave-length, low
bass sound. Try different locations and different levels for your subwoofer. Calibrating
with the subwoofer’s volume too high (and often, too low) is the most common sub-
woofer setup error.
Powered Box Features. We looked the world over for the best sub amp
that’s still affordable. In the end we designed our own. The result? A custom, North
American-made amp with amazing build quality, durability and unbeatable features.
Volume/Gain Use “gain” (in conjunction with your receiver’s subwoofer output
level control) to dial in a bass calibration to your liking. Start calibration with the sub’s
volume/gain no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up (turned clockwise from the left).
Crossover Frequency. If you use your Dolby Digital receiver/processor’s internal
crossover to manage bass frequencies (highly recommended), the setting of this knob on
the sub is irrelevant. (Note: Use the SVS’s crossover “Enable/Disable” switch discussed
below to take advantage of this configuration.) Otherwise this knob is used to best blend
your SVS to your other speakers. Typically used in stereo only systems today.
Phase. Think of bass waves as conflicting or enhancing each other, depending on the
timing of their arrival at your listening location (either together, or not). Since some of
your room’s bass might come from main, center and/or surround speakers, as well as
your sub, getting these bass waves to arrive in a complementary, enhancing fashion is
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Page 8
the difficult job of the phase control. Essentially, “phase” varies the timing of the bass
coming from the sub. But don’t despair if you don’t hear much difference with changes
to the phase knob — the effect of bass cancellation will vary by volume and frequency
in your room, and no single setting is likely to ever be “perfect”. One technique to opti-
mize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of “Godzilla” movie DVD)
and measure the loop’s SPL response at various points. As the loop runs, you can have
an assistant adjust the phase control. When you see the most response on a given bass
passage, typically that’s the setting with the least room-induced cancellation (for the
frequencies of the demo loop).
Line In/Out. Use one of the sub’s “Line In” jacks to connect the subwoofer to the
output jack of your receiver/processor. Feeding just one input is enough. If you are
using a conventional amp and/or a stereo setup you can use the “Line Out” jacks to send
sound (filtered of deep bass information) back to your system amp. A simple RCA to
RCA cable is all you need for either type configuration.
Auto On. Your sub allows an “Auto On” mode… or can be on all the time. With the
switch in the “Auto” position your subwoofer will “sense” that a DVD or CD etc. has
begun and switch on immediately (the “hard power switch” mentioned below must be
on, naturally). A few minutes after a movie finishes, the Green auto-on light will turn
Red, switching the sub back off. Sometimes, with very low listening levels, your sub-
woofer might not get enough of a bass signal from your surround sound processor to
“trip” the auto-on circuit. Should you ever find this to be the case you may leave this
switch to “On”, or turn the receiver’s subwoofer output up, and the sub down. Recali-
brate your levels if you change the subwoofers gain knob however.
Crossover enable switch. If you allow your DD/DTS surround-sound receiver or
processor to manage bass frequencies (recommended), this switch should be set to
“Disabled”. This eliminates the effects of the “Crossover Frequency” knob and allows
your sub to reproduce just what it’s fed from the receiver. If you use the sub in a two
channel (stereo only) configuration, then “Enable” the crossover and adjust the knob to
best blend the sub into the low frequency output of your speakers.
High level inputs/outputs. Not commonly used today, but binding posts are there
in case you don’t have low-level inputs/outputs on your receiver/processor. Typically
utilized only if you are not using a DD/DTS compatible system.
Power. This heavy duty two-position switch next to the power cord will completely
cut the power to your sub amp. Flip this switch to off before you ever move the sub or
change inputs or outputs.
A/C Connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience” outlets
of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current. Avoid them.
Fuse. User replaceable, contact SVS if you have trouble finding one. The fuse can be
accessed by a small door immediately next to the power cord fitting (where you should
also find a spare one for your use).
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Page 9
Subsonic Filter and Port Tuning
Your new SVS Subwoofer not only comes with
our “Tri-Power” port flares, but custom port
plugs and variable subsonic filter which allow
your sub to produce even lower frequencies than
its stock configuration. For most people and most
rooms, your SVS is already configured for the best
blend of extension (how deep/low your sub goes) and output (how loud it gets at a
variety of bass frequencies). However, we know that bass is a very personal taste
and no two rooms will react exactly the same with any subwoofer. So we include a
custom “port plugs” which, when inserted into a port, allows you the user to experi-
ment with a substantially deeper response.
As with all such devices, there are compromises when tuning a sub lower. Installing
a port block takes some capacity from upper reaches of bass, installing two port
plugs naturally limits upper bass response even more. So while you will indeed get
more bass down low (where DVD and music bass is more rare, but quite exciting!),
you’ll sacrifice total output capacity above the stock tuning point of the sub (where
bass is more common). You should decide if the effect is pleasing on the sorts of
movies and music you enjoy.
How to do it? To insert a port plug, simply squeeze the foam on one end and press
the plug into a port flare until it is about 1” lower than the edge of the surface of the
sub. You can remove the plug by inserting your fingertips into the port flare and
squeezing and pulling on the foam plug at the same time. Be sure to select the sub-
sonic filter point on the back of your SVS’s amp which coincides correctly with
your new bass extension mode. NOTE: We strongly recommend you do NOT run a
different subsonic filter setting than your port plug configuration would dictate —
especially if you are running the subwoofer at high sound pressure levels. This
simple table indicates the settings you should use in setting up your sub blockers and
the subsonic filter knob.
PB12-NSD/2
Subsonic Filter Knob
Stock (no ports blocked)
With one port-blocked
With two ports-blocked
25Hz
20Hz
16Hz
Look to the next page for a computer simulated response chart showing the reduc-
tion of upper bass when adding one, and then two port-blockers to your SVS (along
with addition woofer excursion needed to keep up with the lower frequencies). The
bottom line? Many customers feel the slight loss in upper bass output to be insig-
nificant compared to the deeper response the port block gives. We let you decide.
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Page 11
Bassy demo scenes to die for.
So now what?? You’ve got one of the best theater and music bass sub-
systems on the planet, you’re calibrated...want to see what she’ll do?
But of course! Since finding those scenes can be a bit trying, we’ve
compiled a list of our old favorites below. After all, calibration with test
tones is important, but it’s movies and music this sub is itching to show
off. Chapter stops for DVDs are shown, with movie time in hours: min-
utes: seconds. What are you waiting for? Just hit PLAY!
•
“The Iron Giant” Great family animation with SERIOUS bass,
including strong peaks below 25 Hz. Jump to:
1. “Chase thru the forest” Scene 8 (20:00 into the movie)
2. “Robot Landing” (Train Impact) Scene 10 (25:40)
3. “Green Boom” Scene 27 (1:11:40)
•
•
“Antz” Another good family movie, though not perhaps for small
children. Extremely loud bass above 30 Hz.
“Terror from Above”, Scene 17 (51:48)
“The Matrix” Modern, violent, science fiction classic with plenty
of shoot-’em-up bass blasts. Here’s some subtle and not so subtle.
1. “Where we are grown”, Scene 12 (42:55)
2. “Landing in fight”, Scene 15 (50:51)
3. “Chopper shootout”, Scene 31 (1:47:15)
•
•
“Das Boot” Arguably one of the most compelling war pictures of
all time with bass approaching 20 Hz. Very loud, very deep.
1. “Depth charges”, Scene 21 (59:30)
2. “Storm surfing”, Scene 25 (1:15:15)
3. “Hitting bottom”, Scene 17 (53:15, Side “B”)
“Apollo 13” Moving story, with some surprisingly subtle but re-
vealing bass where it counts.
1. “Lift off”, Scene 13 (35:15)
2. “Coming home”, Scene 53 (2:05:43)
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Page 12
More Bassy demo scenes.
•
“Titanic” You love it...or you hate it. Regardless of which side
of the ship you sit on, this flick does some serious rumbling for
you:
1. “We can’t leave him” Scene 22 (2:21:50)
2. “Ship Splitting” (2:41:30)
3. “Last Gasp” (2:42:05)
•
•
“Blade” Not one for the kiddies, but loaded with deep bass.
1. “Footstep”, Scene 4 (7:15)
2. “Door blown” Scene 20 (50:05)
“Aliens” Not just another modern sci-fi horror classic, this one
rocks from intro to final scene.
1. “Ship drop”, Scene 9 (41:20)
2. “Awakenings”, Scene 15 (1:12:52)
•
"Apocalypse Now" Making This Vietnam war movie, Francis
Ford Copolla nearly went crazy...imagine what it'll do to your
subwoofer!
1. "Chopper ride" Scene 2 (0:19:47)
2. "ARC LIGHT" Scene 4 (0:26:02)
3. "Grenade launch" Scene 12 (1:27:58)
“Contact” SETI with a (bass) twist or two along the way.
1. “Bombing”, Scene 28 (1:36:30)
•
•
2. “Space truckin”, Scene 33 (1:55:56)
“Dark City” One of Roger Ebert’s favorites, think he likes bass
too?
1. “Let the tuning commence”, Scene 8 (34:30)
2. “City makeover”, Scene 15 (1:27:45)
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Page 13
A Glossary of Home Theater Terms
Don’t feel guilty if you want to skip over the below. But if you are curi-
ous about what some of the terms and abbreviations stand for, read on:
dB - Short for “deci-Bell” a unit of sound, a 3dB increase takes twice
the acoustic power to attain!
DD - “Dolby Digital”, the most popular form of digital surround sound,
usually found on DVD soundtracks. Actually a compression algorithm
that can provide 1 to 6 channels of movie audio .
DPL - “Dolby Pro Logic”. The last generation of non-discreet channel
surround sound. Derived from 2 “matrixed” channels.
DTS - “Digital Theater System” similar to DD, but with less compres-
sion. Many feel it sounds better than DD, but you be the judge.
DVD - Amazing little video disk, DVD, doesn’t “mean” anything!
HT - “Home Theater”. What you make of it. But a home (theater)
without a subwoofer, isn’t quite up to our definition!
Hz - Short for Hertz, the German scientist who came up with a scheme
of measuring the frequency of sound waves. 15-30 Hz is very low bass
and very rare in anything but movie soundtracks. 60 Hz is generally
considered mid-bass above which most large full range speakers can
easily produce. The real fun (and real) bass, is in the middle of that
range, call it 20-40 Hz.
LD - Laserdisc, grandfather to the DVD. Still capable of great picture
and sound. Increasingly going the way of the vinyl 33 1/3 LP record.
LFE - “Low Frequency Effects” are the “.1” channel in 5.1 or 6.1 chan-
nel sound-tracks. If you have a sub selected in your system, any LFE
signal goes there. The sub may get bass from other channels as well
however, depending on the “size” of speakers in your set-up.
RMS - A common and accurate way to rate the power of an amplifier.
Literally “Root Means Squared”. Typically measured in “watts”.
SPL - “Sound Pressure Level”, a fancy way of saying “Volume”. Usu-
ally measured in dBs.
Sub - Short for subwoofer
“5.1” - Refers to 5 full range channels and one bass only channel. Now
often reproduced as “6.1” channels, including a center rear speaker.
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Page 14
Notes:
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Page 15
Notes:
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Warranty:
45-day money back warranty. If you are not completely
satisfied with the performance of your subwoofer, return it to us
for a full refund of the purchase price. Just a few minor stipula-
tions should you choose to do this:
•
•
The subwoofer must be returned in original shipping box.
E-mail SVS first for a return of merchandise number
(RMA) and display this on the outside of the box.
•
•
The sub must be insured during shipping (SVS may arrange
UPS pickup to ease any shipping damage issues).
Shipping costs are not refundable.
3 year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship.
SVS will repair or replace any item at its discretion and return
to the customer as soon as possible. Naturally, this warranty
does not cover any product subjected to misuse, abuse, or acci-
dental damage discovered by SVS.
Except as provided above, SVS Subwoofers makes no other war-
ranties express or implied. Some states do not permit limitation
or exclusion of implied warranties, so exclusions may not apply
to the purchaser.
The bottom line: We’re proud of these subwoofers and want
you to be as happy owning one, as we are selling one (or more)
to you. E-mail us if you have any warranty question.
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