Kenmore Dishwasher 63013952 User Manual

KENMORE ELITE  
DISHWASHERS  
630.13952  
630.13953  
630.13959  
Sears Brands Management Corporation  
Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.S.A.  
Sears Canada Inc.  
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 2C3  
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SAFETY  
I. SAFETY  
m
IA. General hazards  
Don’t use the dishwasher until it is completely installed. When opening the door on an  
uninstalled dishwasher, carefully open the door while supporting the rear of the unit.  
Failure to follow this warning can cause the dishwasher to tip over and result in serious  
injury.  
In some conditions, hydrogen gas can form in a hot water system that has not been  
used for weeks. Hydrogen gas is explosive. Before filling a dishwasher from a system  
that has been off for weeks, run the water from a nearby faucet in a well ventilated  
area until there is no sound or evidence of gas.  
Temperatures required for soldering and sweating will damage the dishwasher’s base  
and water inlet valve. If plumbing lines are to be soldered or sweated, keep the heat  
source at least 6 inches (152.4 mm) away from the dishwasher’s base and water inlet  
valve.  
Removing any cover or pulling the dishwasher from the cabinet can expose hot water  
connections, electrical power and sharp edges or points. Handle with care. Always  
wear gloves and safety glasses.  
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IB. Electrical shock / fire hazards  
Don’t allow electrical and water supply lines to touch. Don’t work on an energized  
circuit. Doing so could result in serious injury or death. Only qualified electricians  
should perform electrical work. Don’t attempt any work on the dishwasher electric  
supply circuit until you are certain the circuit is de-energized.  
Make sure electrical work is properly installed. There should be no loose electrical  
connections. Ensure all electrical connections are properly made.  
The customer has the responsibility of ensuring that the dishwasher electrical  
installation is in compliance with all national and local electrical codes and ordinances.  
The dishwasher is designed for an electrical supply of 120VAC, 60 Hz, connected to a  
dishwasher-dedicated, properly grounded electrical circuit with a fuse or breaker rated  
for 15 amps. Electrical supply conductors shall be a minimum #14 AWG copper only  
wire rated at 75°C (167°F) or higher.  
This appliance must be connected to a grounded metal, permanent wiring system, or  
an equipment-grounding conductor must be run with the circuit conductors and  
connected to the equipment-grounding terminal or lead on the appliance. Don’t use  
extension cords.  
m
IC. Plumbing / scalding hazards  
Don’t perform any work on a charged hot water line. Serious injury could result. Only  
qualified plumbers should perform plumbing work. Don’t attempt any work on the  
dishwasher hot water supply plumbing until you are certain the hot water supply is shut  
off.  
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INSTALLATION  
Don’t over tighten the 90° elbow. Doing so may damage the water inlet valve and  
cause a water leak. Temperatures required for soldering and sweating will damage  
the dishwasher’s water inlet valve. If plumbing lines are to be soldered or sweated,  
keep the heat source at least 6 inches (152.4 mm) away from the dishwasher’s water  
inlet valve.  
Check local plumbing codes for approved plumbing procedures and accessories. All  
plumbing should be done in accordance with national and local codes.  
These instructions depict an installation method for stainless steel braided hose or  
PEX hot water supply lines. If using copper tubing or other material for water supply,  
defer to a licensed plumber for proper installation.  
II. INSTALLATION  
IIA. Pre-Install checklist  
Unpack unit. Retain packing material until installation is successful. Remove  
packing material from inside the dishwasher.  
Inspect parts to ensure you have all the necessary materials.  
Flush household hot water supply for at least two minutes.  
Measure the enclosure area. The opening must be at least 34" (87 cm) high and  
23-5/8" (60-61 cm) wide.  
The opening must be close enough to the sink for water line and drain hose  
plumbing access.  
Unit must be installed close enough to the sink so that drain hose length does not  
exceed 92" (234 cm) and a high loop is raised at least 20" (51 cm) above the floor.  
Wooden openings must be sanded smooth and metal openings must be covered  
by a protective gasket.  
Is your water heater set at 120°F (49°C) and does water pressure measure 15-145  
psi (1-10 bar)?  
If installing in a corner, the dishwasher door must clear cabinet hardware.  
Determine mounting method based on dishwasher model and countertop type,  
whether top or side mount.  
IIB. Alignment  
Gently rest the unit on its back, taking care not to crush the drain hose. Remove the  
toe panel(s). Loosen front feet slightly. Remove junction box cover and retain for later  
use. Place dishwasher upright, then level side to side and front to back.  
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INSTALLATION  
If your dishwasher has pre-attached mounting brackets and you have a wooden  
under-counter, position brackets as far apart as possible by sliding them within slots in  
direction of arrows. Do not attach them to the countertop yet.  
If your dishwasher has pre-attached mounting brackets and the counter top is stone,  
use pliers to rotate bracket flanges to remove brackets from the top. Grasp brackets  
with pliers at perforation and bend until the rounded end breaks free. Discard the  
ends. Slip brackets through side slots. Using pliers, bend bracket flanges so the  
brackets will not slip through slots. Do not attach them to the countertop yet.  
IIC. Electrical connection  
Install according to national and local codes.  
Carefully place dishwasher on its back to make electrical connections to the terminal  
block. Turn power off at the fuse box. Extend power cord approximately 21” from the  
left side of the opening, and 30” from the back wall, making sure the cord doesn’t  
contact any moving parts.  
Strip outer casing of electrical wire to expose 2.5" - 3" (65 - 76 mm) of inner wires,  
then strip 1/2" (13 mm) casing from each wire. If plugging the dishwasher into an  
outlet, use an approved appliance power cord. Insert cord through a strain relief (not  
included) and install to strain relief plate. Attach wires to terminal block (black – L  
(hot), white – N (neutral) & green – G (ground). Unscrew terminal screws, but don’t  
loosen or remove them as they may become damaged. Attach wires snugly, but don’t  
overtighten.  
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INSTALLATION  
IID. Water connection  
Install according to national and local codes.  
Carefully place dishwasher on its back to make water connections to the water inlet  
valve. Use a 90º elbow fitting with Teflon tape as needed. Don’t overtighten.  
Attach the hot water line to the 90° elbow and route it underneath the unit toward the  
hot water connection. Make sure the line doesn’t contact any moving parts.  
IIE. Drain and condensation hose connections  
Plumbing installations will vary - refer to local codes. The maximum length of the drain  
hose, including leading to an air gap (if any) is 150" (381 cm). Make sure a high loop  
is raised at least 20" (51 cm) above the floor.  
Drain hose has its own adapter – connect directly to plumbing connection and secure  
with supplied hose clamp. Don’t connect to condensation hose.  
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OPERATION  
III. OPERATION  
IIIA. Control layout  
IIIB. Features  
Sanitized and Refill Rinse Agent lights  
The Sanitized light comes on after certain wash programs have finished,  
showing dishes have been sanitized according to NSF standards. Check the  
Use & Care Guide to confirm which programs qualify as NSF rated.  
The Refill Rinse Agent light shows rinse-aid needs to be added.  
Reset (“Cancel – Reset”)  
To reset, push Cancel-Reset buttons at the same time.  
Dry Assist  
With Dry Assist the temperature of the rinse water can be raised and the drying  
time increased for improved drying.  
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OPERATION  
Changing basic features  
Some features can be changed on the fascia panel.  
End of cycle tone  
The End of cycle tone volume can be changed.  
Turn the dishwasher off and then push and hold the right Cancel Reset button  
while turning the dishwasher on – release buttons when a tone sounds or the  
right Cancel Reset button LED lights up.  
Pushing the right Cancel Reset button changes the setting – push it until the  
tone is at the desired volume (or the tone stops if it’s to be turned off). Push the  
on/off button to save the setting.  
IIIC. Entering special programs and coding  
Controls contain codes for sales demo mode, factory tests, customer service  
test program, dishwasher configuration and error codes.  
While pushing (and holding) any two wash cycle buttons, turn the dishwasher  
on with the on/off switch. The current coding (e.g. “C2”) will show in the display  
or LED's until you release the buttons. After releasing the buttons, LED “B” will  
be lit and LED “C” will flash, confirming you’re in the special programs menu.  
Push button “B” repeatedly until you’ve selected your desired program (see  
P(X) Program codes, “P1” or “P4” -- programs “P0” and “P3” are factory tests  
that aren’t to be used).  
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OPERATION  
P(X) Program codes  
P0 = Functional test - used for assembly (do not use)  
P1 = Customer service test program (see E(X) error codes)  
P3 = Endurance / Life test (do not use)  
P4 = Control coding (see C(X) control codes)  
E(X) Error codes  
E0 = No errors  
E1 = Heating error  
E2 = NTC error  
E3 = Filling error  
E4 = Water switch cannot be positioned  
E5 = Safety float water level reached  
E6 = Aqua sensor error  
C(X) Control codes  
C9 = Sales demo mode  
Codes C1 through C9 are possible, depending on the model.  
HINT: Customers pushing and holding Cancel-Reset buttons while turning  
dishwashers on can see strange displays. Whenever you get call about a  
“strange” display, check if the customer put the dishwasher into the test  
program or some other program.  
Sales demo (showroom) program  
Entering sales demo program  
Enter the special program mode – see section IIIE. Before releasing the two  
buttons held while you turned the dishwasher on, note the coding on the digital  
display (e.g. “C2”) -- the dishwasher must be returned to this code for resale.  
Push button “B” repeatedly until the display shows sales demo program mode  
P4”. Push button “C” to confirm it.  
Push button “B” repeatedly until the display shows sales demo code “C9”. Push  
button “C” to confirm it.  
Turn power off and then back on. The dishwasher is now in demo mode -- all  
button lights will light up.  
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OPERATION  
Preparing a dishwasher for showroom use  
Turn off the power to the dishwasher or disconnect the dishwasher from the  
electrical power.  
WARNING: Danger of electrical shock!  
Remove the toe kick and locate the drain pump terminal shown below.  
Disconnect the terminal from the drain pump by squeezing and pulling it out.  
Cover the terminal with electrical tape to prevent electrical shock.  
Disconnect both ends of the short heater red wire – see section 5.2.3 to remove  
right side panel for access. Tape the wire with electrical tape to the plastic base  
so it can be reconnected for resale.  
Do NOT connect dishwasher to a water line, but slowly pour about 4.5 liters of  
distilled water into the tank. The water level should be near the bottom of the  
fine filter screen in the sump.  
Add a small amount of rinse aid and a 1/2 capful of antibacterial agent  
(bacteriastat) onto the inner door. Do NOT add bleach.  
Reconnect the dishwasher and turn it on by pushing the on/off button. Close  
the door and run dishwasher for one minute. If necessary, add more water until  
level reaches the fine filter screen.  
Preparing a showroom dishwasher for resale  
To return the dishwasher back to it’s original condition for resale, enter the  
special program mode – see section 3.4. Push button “B” repeatedly until the  
display shows sales demo program mode “P4”. Push button “C” to confirm it.  
Push button “B” repeatedly until the display shows the original dishwasher code  
(e.g. “C1”, “C2”, etc). Push button “C” to confirm it.  
Turn power off and then back on. The dishwasher now has it’s original coding.  
Reconnect the pump and heater that was previously disconnected.  
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OPERATION  
Dispenser  
Adjusting rinse-aid dosage  
The amount of rinse-aid can be adjusted at the dispenser.  
Rinse-aid can be added by pouring it onto the arrow.  
Closing dispenser doors  
Slide cover fully left.  
Push back end of the cover (onto the arrow) down  
firmly until you hear a click.  
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COMPONENTS  
IV.COMPONENTS  
IVA. Dishwasher components  
Tank  
The tank, made of 304 stainless steel, isn’t available as a service part.  
Heater Operation  
Dishwashers use flow-through heaters instead of exposed elements, saving  
space and allowing taller tanks holding larger dinner plates.  
Flow-through  
heaters prevent dishware damage from exposed elements and allow water to  
be continuously filtered and heated.  
Heating element  
Seal  
NTC/Hi-limit  
Flow  
switch  
To upper  
spray arm  
To lower  
spray arm  
From circulation pump  
Filtered water from the sump flows through the circulation pump into the flow-  
through heater. All heaters are protected by a 185ºF Hi-limit (high temperature  
cutout) and by a flow switch which prevents heaters from operating when no  
water is flowing.  
Heater ratings  
120 VAC, 60 Hz, 1200 W  
Heats water about 2ºF / minute  
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COMPONENTS  
Leveling feet (front and rear)  
The base is supported by three leveling feet, two front and one rear. The rear  
leveling foot is adjusted from the front. Front feet have provisions for set screws  
(in installation parts bag).  
Water switch  
Motor operated water switches are mounted underneath heater assemblies.  
They consist of a motor-controlled disk with 3 holes which rotates and lines up  
over two sump ports (upper / lower spray arms) to provide precise water control  
to upper, lower or both spray arms.  
Water switches are used to divert water to upper or lower spray arms. Separate  
actuators aren’t needed.  
Cam  
Microswitch  
European disk shown,  
which is different than  
U.S. disk  
Disk  
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COMPONENTS  
Circulation pumps, heaters & sumps for water switch / non-water switch models  
can’t be interchanged.  
Circulation pumps  
Bosch dishwashers use separate circulation and drain pumps to reduce overall  
size, noise, vibration and energy consumption. This allows the use of tall tanks,  
increasing overall space inside dishwashers where full-sized plates can be  
placed in both upper and lower racks. Circulation pumps are suspended by  
rubber straps to further reduce noise and vibration.  
BLDC  
Pump, motor and control come as one unit (# 665510). Speed changes as  
needed for wash cycle and washability. Pump is isolated from motor, so there’s  
no seal needed and no need to loosen or replace impellers.  
Float  
The float is a safety device which starts the drain pump if there’s too much  
water in the tank. It doesn’t act like a bilge pump (i.e. it won’t drain water from  
the base).  
If there’s water in the base or the float switch isn’t working, error code E5 is  
possible.  
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COMPONENTS  
Drain pump  
Drain pumps are mounted to sumps in the front of dishwashers -- they’re easily  
accessible from the front of dishwashers by removing toe kicks.  
Pump specifications  
Drain pump is rated 120V, 60 Hz, 35W, 0.85A.  
Solving installation issues  
Often improper installations, not drain pump issues, cause dishwashers to not  
drain properly.  
Must have drain hoses with high loops (min. 20” high) or drains with  
air gaps.  
Drain hoses are 6’ long and can be up to 10’ long.  
Secure drain hoses to rear of dishwashers with non-metal bands.  
Make sure drain hoses aren’t kinked.  
Cavitating  
Cavitating may occur in any type of pump when impellers spin faster (from low  
inlet or outlet pressure), creating air pockets around impellers. Cavitating  
pumps can be noisy. Air gaps/high loops keep water contacting pump outlets,  
preventing air pockets from forming.  
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COMPONENTS  
Siphoning  
Siphoning may occur in any type of drain pump when low water flow allows a  
siphon (suction) to develop, pulling waste water back into the pump. Sump  
check valves along with air gaps/high loops prevent siphons from being created.  
Terminal connections (Rast 5 connectors)  
Rast 5 terminal connectors provide more positive connections than spade  
terminals.  
Johnson Tee installations (Washington State)  
Drain pumps in installations with Johnson Tees (in Washington State) must use  
stronger 4-vane pumps (607468).  
Standard 9-vane drain pumps (642239) are quieter  
and smoother than 4-vane pumps.  
Water fill assembly  
The water fill assembly is easily accessed from the left side.  
Time fill  
The time-fill water inlet system doesn’t have a diaphragm or water level switch.  
Dishwasher controls allow water to fill for a specific time, relying on consistent  
water flow through the water inlet valve to provide the correct water level.  
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COMPONENTS  
Time-fill water valves look like pressure-fill valves, but have tight part tolerances  
to insure consistent water levels. Time-fill valves can replace pressure-fill  
valves, but pressure-fill valves can’t replace time-fill valves.  
Flowmeter  
Dishwashers use a flowmeter to provide more accurate water filling. An  
impeller mounted magnet activates a reed switch.  
Flowmeters are rated:  
3.8 – 14 VDC, 1 ma  
2.5 L / min, 0.5 – 10 bar  
208 output pulses per liter  
An arrow on the back of the flowmeter shows the  
water flow direction.  
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COMPONENTS  
Condensation tube  
The condensation tube is crucial for condensation drying, which dries dishes  
without a heating element in the bottom of the tank. Condensation tubes exit  
the dishwasher at the right side of the tank.  
Condensation tubes exit in the rear of dishwasher bases, allowing water vapor  
to evaporate, and aren’t connected to customer drains.  
Door spring  
Using hinge slider (sliding pulley)  
Hinge sliders (sliding hinge pulleys) are used instead of hinge pulleys. Instead  
of rolling over rotating pulleys, door spring cords slide over pulley sliding  
surfaces. The sliding surfaces provide better control than rotating pulleys (i.e.  
reduces possibility of doors slamming closed or falling open).  
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COMPONENTS  
618605 sliding hinge pulley kit consists of (2) sliding pulleys and (2) cords.  
Hinge bushing  
Hinge bushings hold doors in place (at hinges), using latches instead of  
separate locks. Replacement door hinge levers contain hinge bushings.  
Water inlet valve  
Dishwashers use standard horizontal coil water inlet valves with (Rast 5)  
connectors. The valve nestles in the left side of the base and is held into place  
with two screws.  
When reconnecting the water supply to the water valve, don’t overtighten the  
elbow fitting.  
Using Teflon tape on water fittings can help prevent leaking.  
The water valve can be accessed without removing outer door or base  
cover. However, removing them will provide easier access.  
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COMPONENTS  
On/off switch  
The on/off switch turns the dishwasher on and off and is  
crucial in resetting controls.  
Contacts 5 & 6 reset the control. Whenever a control won’t  
reset or won’t go into wash programs, check the on/off  
switch and jumper. Replace switch and jumper if they’re  
faulty.  
Door latch  
Other than occasional misalignment, the only door latch  
repairs will be replacing microswitches. Door latches are  
held in place in console (frames) by tabs. It’s important  
latches are properly seated in consoles and tabs are fully  
inserted into latches.  
Terminal block  
Terminal blocks clearly show line (L), neutral (N) & ground (G) connections.  
Dishwasher wire harnesses have spade terminals which connect to terminals  
on the rear of the terminal block.  
Terminal blocks can’t be installed in the field – the terminal box assy with  
terminal block must be ordered. The terminal box assy assures the terminal  
block is properly grounded to the terminal box.  
Terminal box  
All dishwashers have terminal boxes with covers and conduit exits.  
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COMPONENTS  
Drain hose  
Dishwashers use a two-hose (internal / external) drain hose system.  
A
customer (external) drain hose (during installation) is connected to the internal  
drain hose, with the 90º elbow pointing toward the customer drain. The external  
drain hose connects directly to the customer drain system without an adapter.  
Dispenser  
The dispenser is located near the top of the inner door and reliably dispenses  
detergent and rinse-aid.  
During each wash program, the wax motor opens twice, once to dispense  
detergent and again to dispense rinse-aid. The wax motor opens the same --  
linkages open the detergent door & operate the rinse-aid dosage plunger.  
Dispensers can have reed switches or optical rinse-aid sensors.  
CAUTION: Inner door edges are sharp! Cover door edges and remove  
dispenser carefully.  
The white plastic linkage opens the detergent dispenser door, then cocks in  
place to dispense rinse-aid when the wax motor operates again. After the 2nd  
operation, the linkage resets for the next wash.  
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COMPONENTS  
Optical rinse-aid sensors  
Optical rinse-aid sensors determine if rinse-aid is present using a light beam  
and sensor.  
With rinse-aid present, the optical  
receiver senses a diffused light  
beam.  
When rinse-aid has run out, the  
optical receiver senses a strong  
light beam.  
TIP:  
It’s possible for some clear rinse-aid brands to not diffuse light  
adequately to show rinse-aid isn’t needed.  
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COMPONENTS  
Aqua sensor  
The aqua sensor is located behind the sump, to the left of the heater. It’s a two-  
piece assembly, with a small circuit board in a plastic housing). It senses water  
cleanliness and allows the dishwasher control to remove pre-wash and/or pre-  
rinse cycles to save energy (~ 20% energy savings).  
.
If water is clean enough, it will be kept for the wash cycle. If not, the aqua  
sensor directs the dishwasher to add an additional pre-rinse or pre-wash cycle.  
Dishwashers still operate adequately if aqua sensors fail. Customers will only  
notice aqua sensors failing if they see their dishwashers running slightly longer  
or their electric and water usage getting slightly higher.  
Display and power modules  
Dishwashers have two controls: a control module in the fascia (control) panel)  
and a power module in the base on the right side. The power module controls  
the circulation and drain pumps, while the control module controls the wash  
programs.  
Power module  
Control module  
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COMPONENTS  
Sump parts  
Sump  
The sump contains a filter screen, large item (coarse) filter and micro filter.  
The sump holds the drain pump cover and check valve.  
Backflow (check) valve  
The backflow (check) valve is located in the bottom of the sump near the  
circulation pump inlet. It prevents waste water from entering the sump.  
The valve material is clear, material doesn’t swell and provides improved  
seating after many uses. Part # is 165262.  
Old valve  
New valve  
TIP: When washability issues arise, replace check valve along with other  
repairs.  
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COMPONENTS  
Spray arm feed tube  
When water doesn’t spray from upper spray arms, check feed tube where it  
enters the sump. Occasionally, the joint between the feed tube and its base  
can loosen -- the entire feed tube must be replaced.  
Info lights  
Info lights shine a blue light onto floors, letting customers know their quiet  
dishwashers are running. When dishwashers finish wash cycles, info lights shut  
off.  
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COMPONENTS  
Operation  
Water circulation  
The circulation pump pumps water from the sump through a triple filter system  
to the heater. When water enters the heater, a flow switch determines water is  
present and allows the heater to be activated. As water flows, it’s heated until it  
reaches the pre-set temperature determined by the cycle. Once it leaves the  
heater, it flows through the sump into the upper and lower spray arms.  
Aqua  
sensor  
NTC  
Hi-limit  
Heating  
element  
To upper  
spray arm  
To lower  
spray arm  
Backflow  
valve  
Circulation  
pump motor  
Drain pump  
cover  
Sump  
Drain pump  
Impeller  
Seal  
The aqua sensor, drain pump, NTC, Hi-limit and backflow valve are near the  
heater under the sump. The aqua sensor senses water cleanliness –  
dishwashers add or subtract rinses as needed. The NTC senses water  
temperature. The Hi-limit shuts off the heater if the water gets too hot. The  
backflow valve prevents waste water from entering the dishwasher.  
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COMPONENTS  
Serial label (warranty information)  
The serial label, located on the right side of the inner door, contains the  
dishwasher model, serial and index (KI) #’s.  
Understanding the 17-digit serial #  
This is detailed serial # is used by the factory for analysis of returned units. It’s  
located in the bottom right corner of the label.  
For example, for serial # 10 3 03 0081344 00011 5 (not shown on label above)  
The first 2 #’s represent a factory code: 10 = dishwasher  
The 3rd # represents the last digit of the year: 3 = 2003  
The next 2 #’s represent the month: 03 = March  
The next 7 #’s represent the model: 0081344 = SHY99A05UC  
The next 5 #’s represent the unit made that month: 00011 = 11th SHY99A05UC  
made that month  
The last # represents a check digit = 5 in this case (is dependent on all  
preceding #’s)  
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Repair  
V. Repair  
VA. Disassembly procedures  
Use the following disassembly procedures to access parts such as fascia panels,  
circulation pumps, heaters and controls.  
To remove outer door  
Tools needed: T20 Torx screwdriver.  
1. Remove six T-20 Torx inner door screws below fascia panel -- three per  
side (1).  
2. Carefully pull bottom of outer door out from dishwasher until top door  
tabs clear, then pull door down until it releases from dishwasher (2).  
Take care to not scratch outer door.  
TIP: 1-piece foam door guards don’t need to be removed from doors.  
NOTE: Outer doors don’t need to be removed when dishwashers are flipped  
upside-down or when fascia panels are removed, but can be if it makes  
repairs easier.  
To remove toe kick  
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver.  
1. Remove two Phillips screws and tilt toe kick out from dishwasher.  
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Repair  
To flip dishwasher upside-down  
Tools needed: T20 Torx screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver and pliers.  
1.  
Turn off water and electricity. Disconnect dishwasher mounting  
brackets (1).  
2.  
Remove toe kick by removing two Phillips screws and tilting toe kick  
out from dishwasher (2).  
3.  
4.  
Disconnect water line and electric supply (3).  
Pull dishwasher out, place a pad or cardboard on the floor and carefully  
flip the dishwasher upside-down (4).  
5.  
6.  
Remove four base screws from front of dishwasher (5).  
Remove two screws securing water valve to base. There’s no need to  
disconnect valve wire harness or inlet hoses (6).  
7.  
8.  
Pull wire harness connector from rear of terminal box (7).  
Push latch on base-mounted control to disconnect it from base (8).  
9.  
Remove both door springs from base (9).  
10. Remove two tank screws from rear of dishwasher (10), disconnect both  
rubber circulation pump supports (11) and carefully lift up base from  
dishwasher (12).  
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Repair  
Sump  
Access to circulation pump,  
heater and sump after base  
has been removed.  
Pump  
Heater  
To raise (block up) right side of tank  
Tools needed: T20 Torx screwdriver and pliers.  
1. Remove one T-20 Torx screw from both rear corners holding tank to base  
(1) -- removing screw from both sides allows tank to be blocked upward.  
2. Remove T-20 Torx screws from front right bottom corner holding tank to  
base (2).  
3. Remove right hinge cover (3) and release right door tension cord from  
hinge (4).  
4. Raise and block up tank as shown with strut onto base (5a), sliding a piece  
of wood or other solid material between the tank and base to keep tank  
from falling back onto base (5b).  
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Repair  
VB. Water valves  
Access the water valve from the front of the dishwasher base by removing the  
toe kick.  
To remove water valve  
Tools needed: T20 Torx screwdriver & pliers.  
1. Remove toe kick by removing two Phillips screws and tilting toe kick out  
from dishwasher.  
2. Remove base insulation (on models with insulation).  
3. Move sump inlet hose away from water valve (without disconnecting it).  
4. Disconnect wires from water valve, including ground wire.  
5. Remove two T-20 Torx screws from water valve.  
6. Pull valve out from dishwasher and disconnect water hose from rear of  
valve. Remove any water from sump & base.  
Connection hints:  
Water connection 3/8” NPT female. Inlet water pressure range 5 - 120 psi  
(0.3 – 8.27 bars).  
When reconnecting the water supply to the water valve, don’t overtighten the  
elbow fitting. On valves with vertical solenoids, the plastic can crack and  
cause leaking if excessive force is used.  
Using Teflon tape on water fittings can help prevent leaking.  
The water valve can be accessed without removing outer door or base  
cover. However, removing them will provide easier access.  
VC. Circulation pumps  
The circulation pump can be accessed by flipping the dishwasher upside-down.  
Use the same process to access the heater.  
For access to circulation pump  
Tools needed: Phillips and T-20 Torx screwdriver, pliers.  
1. Remove toe kick – see section VA.  
2. Flip dishwasher upside-down & remove base – see section VA.  
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Repair  
To remove complete pump  
Tools needed: flat blade screwdriver.  
1. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully push in the pump housing  
latch and rotate the pump clockwise (cw) to remove the pump (1).  
2. Disconnect wire harness from pump motor after carefully noting  
connections (2).  
CAUTION: Don’t grab motor next to the capacitor to avoid jamming your  
hand on the capacitor.  
TIP: Pump motors can have a plastic (newer) or metal (older) housing.  
Pumps with plastic motor housings cannot be removed by blocking up  
the tank unless the capacitor is removed first (since the capacitor hits the  
tank when the pump is rotated).  
VD. Controls  
Fascia panel mounted controls  
Controls are easily removed from fascia panels by bending console tabs.  
Tools needed: T-20 Torx & flat blade screwdrivers.  
1. Remove fascia panel by removing T-20 Torx inner door screws.  
2. Disconnect wire harnesses from module after noting connector locations.  
3. Pry out metal console tabs holding module to console.  
4. Carefully pry back plastic tabs, then slide module from console.  
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Repair  
m CAUTION – 75% of all controls returned  
for analysis check out OK. Most control  
issues are due to loose connections.  
Base mounted controls  
Base mounted controls are located on the base between circulation pumps and  
heaters, not behind fascia panels. So:  
Dishwashers must be pulled out to change controls.  
Dishwashers must be pulled out to measure voltages & resistances.  
To access base-mounted controls  
Tools needed: T-20 Torx screwdriver & pliers.  
1. Remove outer door – see section VA.  
2. Remove toe kick – see section VA.  
3. Raise (block up) tank – see section VA.  
To remove right side panel  
Tools needed: T20 Torx screwdriver.  
Dishwashers have a short side panel on the right side. Removing it provides  
access to the circulation pump and heater and base-mounted control.  
1. To remove right side plastic side panels, tilt top of panel and lift out.  
Blocking the tank up makes it easier (a screwdriver is needed to remove  
base screws first).  
To remove base-mounted controls  
1. Locate control, open control cover and disconnect wire harnesses from  
module after noting connector locations.  
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Repair  
2. Push latch on back of control toward rear of dishwasher, then slide  
control from base.  
m CAUTION – 75% of all controls returned  
for analysis check out OK. Most control  
issues are due to loose connections.  
VE. Heaters  
The heater, NTC and flow switch can be accessed or measured from the right  
side of the dishwasher, but the heater and NTC can only be removed by  
removing the base (by flipping the dishwasher upside-down) since the heater  
fits tightly underneath the tank.  
For access to heaters & NTC’s  
Tools needed: Phillips and T-20 Torx screwdriver, pliers.  
1. Remove toe kick – see section VA.  
2. Flip dishwasher upside-down & remove base – see section VA.  
To remove heater, NTC & flow switch  
1. Loosen pump - heater hose clamp and remove two T-20 Torx screws  
holding heater assembly to sump.  
2. Carefully pull heater from sump & pump. The heater comes as an  
assembly with housing & gasket.  
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Repair  
3. Note connections, remove NTC cover and disconnect wires from heater,  
flow switch, NTC & Hi-Limit.  
4. Push NTC latches and lift NTC from heater.  
5. To remove flow switch, carefully pry housing away from switch (until tabs  
clear switch), then snap switch out. Note flow switch can be removed  
from right side without flipping dishwasher upside-down.  
TIP: If needed, use rinse-aid to lubricate gaskets to make it easier to  
assemble heater to sump and pump.  
Softer bearing heaters  
All heaters are “softer bearing” and have a gasket assembled to it (to connect to  
the circulation pump) and use a hose clamp (172272 provided separately).  
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Repair  
VF. 2-piece drain hose connection  
Drain hoses come in two pieces, an external (customer) drain hose and an  
internal drain hose. The 90º elbow of the external hose is connected to the  
outlet of the internal hose (pointing toward the drain) and is held in place by a  
hose clamp.  
To remove the internal drain hose, remove a white plastic hose lock and pull the  
hose from the water level control.  
VG. Drain pumps  
To access pump, disconnect inlet hose and pump harness. To remove pump,  
(1) pull latch (on circular collar), (2) rotate pump clockwise (cw) ~ 1/8 turn and  
(3) pull out pump. To install new pump, insert @ 2:00 position & rotate  
counterclockwise (ccw).  
VH. Dispensers  
Dispensers can be accessed from the front by removing the outer door.  
Tools needed: Small flat blade and T-20 Torx screwdrivers.  
To remove dispensers  
1. Remove outer door -- section VA.  
2. Disconnect wire harnesses from dispenser. Don’t remove the cable tie  
keeping the harness away from the dispenser. It must be replaced if it’s  
removed.  
3. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, push the six inner door tabs holding  
the dispenser.  
4. Carefully push the dispenser in toward the inside of the inner door.  
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Repair  
CAUTION: Inner door edges are sharp! Cover door edges and remove  
dispenser carefully.  
m
VI.  
Door latches  
Other than occasional misalignment, the only door latch repairs will be replacing  
microswitches.  
To remove door latches  
1. Remove fascia panel -- section VD.  
2. Locate door latch in console and bend out console metal tabs to allow  
latch removal.  
3. Remove door latch from console.  
4. If door latch has a microswitch cover, disconnect wire harness and  
remove microswitch & cover.  
5. Remove microswitch from door latch.  
HINT: Make sure plastic latch tabs are aligned & metal console tabs are  
bent back completely during reassembly.  
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Repair  
Misaligned door latches  
Occasionally integrated dishwasher door latches can be misaligned, causing  
doors to not close properly or dishwashers to run with doors open (when latches  
don’t reset). Follow these steps to realign door latches.  
1. Insert latch tabs into frame.  
2. Bend tabs down into latch.  
3. Reset latch to open position.  
HINT: Make sure latch tabs are seated, all fascia frame  
(console) tabs are bent completely, door strikes are  
aligned with latches and door latches get reset.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
VI.Fault Diagnostics  
VIA. Customer service test program  
Entering customer service test program  
Controls contain codes for factory tests, customer service test program,  
dishwasher configuration and error codes. Consult test programs and error  
codes for your dishwasher before using the codes from this manual.  
1. Open the door.  
2. While pushing (and holding) any two wash cycle buttons, turn the  
dishwasher on with the on/off switch. While the buttons are held, the  
model coding will show (e.g. “C2”, “C5”, etc.). After releasing the  
buttons, LED “B” will be lit, LED “C” will flash and “P0” will display,  
confirming you’re in the special programs menu.  
3. To select the test program, push button “B” repeatedly until “P1” is  
displayed or until LED “C” is lit.  
4. Push button “C” to start the program -- LED “C” will blink. Close the door  
after pushing button “C”). The steps will show on the digital display (e.g.-  
"S:01") -- push button “B” to skip a step.  
Stored error codes will show on the digital display and LED’s (see Error code  
displays on the next page).  
The test program can only be stopped / reset by pushing the on/off button – it  
can’t be done by turning off the power.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Error code displays  
Error codes can be found using the customer service test program.  
1. Open the door.  
2. While pushing (and holding) any two wash cycle buttons, turn the  
dishwasher on with the on/off switch. While the buttons are held, the  
model coding will show (e.g. “C2”, “C5”, etc.). After releasing the  
buttons, LED “B” will be lit and LED “C” will flash and “P0” will display,  
confirming you’re in the special programs menu.  
3. Push button “C” to start the Error Code program (instead of pushing “B”  
to select the test program). As button “C” is held, the earliest cycle with  
an error code is displayed (“00”) – when button “C” is released, the error  
code is displayed. If there’s more than one error code, the code with the  
highest priority is displayed (see chart below).  
4. The last 8 error codes are stored. Repeatedly pushing and releasing  
button “C” scrolls from the oldest cycle with an error code (“00”) to the  
latest (“07”).  
Dishwashers can show the following error codes.  
Error code E5 is safety float water level reached. If this error code occurs,  
check the float and float switch, check if water is in the base and check if the  
water inlet valve has re-seated after closing.  
Clearing error codes  
To clear error codes, run the customer service test program.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Viewing customer service program  
Open the door to (push the buttons to) enter the test program. Close the door  
to run the test program.  
Push button “B” to skip a step.  
Symbol  
AS_KAL_IR = Calibrate aqua sensor  
F = Water fill  
FWW = Soft water fill  
H = Heating  
UK = Bottom rack  
OK = Top rack  
P = Drain pump  
PA = Pause  
SP = Intermittent pump  
U = Circulate  
VF = Pre-fill  
WP = Alternate pumping  
WWP = Water switch positioning  
WS = Alternate rinsing  
ZK = Dispense rinse aid  
ZR = Dispense detergent  
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Fault Diagnostics  
VIB. Troubleshooting  
Dishwasher troubleshooting  
Fault  
Steps to determine failure  
Failure Resolution  
dishwasher connections  
improper, replace cord / wiring with  
minimum 14 awg (rated 75˚C). If  
voltage isn’t 120V, check for open  
circuit breakers or fuses.  
No power  
1. Check wiring connections to 1. If  
dishwasher and if supply voltage is  
120V.  
are  
2. Check if wiring connections at 2. If connectors aren’t seated, reseat  
interference suppressor (RFI filter)  
are properly seated.  
them. If connectors are damaged,  
replace wire harness.  
3. Disconnect power and check 3. Replace parts as follows:  
resistance between following  
terminals. For all measurements, push  
on/off switch to close it.  
A. If resistance is 0 go to step  
3B. If not, replace interference  
suppressor (RFI filter).  
A. Black wires of interference  
suppressor (RFI filter) “L1”  
terminals.  
B. On/off switch “L1” terminals 4  
(black wire) and 3 (gray-black  
wire to control).  
B. If resistance is 0 , go to step  
3C. If not, replace on/off switch.  
C. “N” white wire and control  
connector 6-4 yellow wire (with  
door closed).  
C. If resistance is 0 , control is  
shorted and should be replaced.  
If not, go to step 3D.  
D. White wires of interference  
suppressor “N” terminals.  
D. If resistance is 0 , replace  
on/off switch. If not, replace  
interference suppressor.  
No heat,  
heating  
error or  
NTC error  
1. Run customer service test program 1. If spray arms aren’t turning, see  
and check if spray arms are turning.  
Circulation Pump Not Running.  
2. Measure resistance between the 2. If resistance isn’t within the values  
NTC orange wires.  
below, check NTC connections. If  
connections are OK, replace NTC.  
77º F (25ºC) 45840 Ω  
22º F (50ºC) 16542 Ω  
140º F (60ºC) 11067 Ω  
3. If resistance is not 12 , go to step  
4. If resistance is 12 , go to step 5.  
3. Check resistance between red wire  
from control to heater thermostat  
and white or white-red (“N”) wire  
from flow (pressure switch). Before  
measuring,  
close  
the  
flow  
(pressure) microswitch by removing  
it from heater housing and pushing  
the button.  
4. Check  
resistance  
between 4. If thermostat is open (∞ Ω), replace it.  
thermostat terminals and between  
heating element terminals (r1).  
If heating element is open (∞ Ω),  
replace heater. If thermostat and  
heating element aren’t open, replace  
pressure switch.  
5. With pressure switch removed, 5. If pressure plate moves freely,  
check if heater pressure plate  
moves freely.  
replace control. If not, replace heater.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Fault  
Steps to determine failure  
Failure Resolution  
Dispenser  
not  
operating  
or rinse aid  
not being  
dispensed  
1. Check if detergent dispenser cover 1. Free jammed cover (by opening and  
is jammed.  
2. Check  
closing it) or replace damaged cover.  
harness 2. If connectors aren’t seated properly,  
dispenser  
connections to rinse aid dispenser,  
dispenser actuator (A2) and control.  
reseat them. If connectors are  
damaged, replace wire harness.  
3. Run customer service test program 3. If actuator operates, but doesn’t open  
with outer door removed and check  
if actuator operates. It should  
operate once to open detergent  
dispenser door and a second time  
to dispense rinse aid.  
detergent dispenser cover or release  
rinse aid, replace dispenser linkages.  
4. Check  
resistance  
between  
4. If resistance is not between 2050 -  
2250 , replace dispenser actuator. If  
not, replace control.  
dispenser actuator terminals.  
Will not  
drain  
1. Check if house drain line is clogged. 1. Unclog drain and check operation.  
2. Check that drain hose is no longer 2. Shorten or replace drain hose and  
than 150” and includes a 20” high  
add 20” high loop.  
loop.  
3. Remove garbage disposal plug.  
3. Check if garbage disposal plug is  
removed.  
4. Check if drain hose is clogged or 4. Unclog or replace drain hose.  
pinched.  
5. Unblock  
operation.  
impeller  
and  
check  
5. Check if drain pump impeller is  
blocked.  
6. If current is 0.68 A and water does  
6. Run customer service test program  
and measure drain pump current  
while drain pump is activated.  
not drain, replace drain pump.  
7. Check wiring connections at 7. If connectors aren’t seated properly,  
terminal 1 of float switch (white  
wire), drain motor and control.  
reseat them. If connectors are  
damaged, replace wire harness.  
8. Measure drain pump resistance 8. If the resistance is between 23 - 28 ,  
(between “N” and gray wire from  
drain pump to control).  
replace control. If not, replace drain  
pump.  
Circulation  
pump not  
running or  
dishes still  
dirty  
1. Run customer service test program 1. If not filling, see Will Not Fill.  
and check if dishwasher is filling  
with enough water.  
2. Check if water switch failed (i.e. 2. Replace heater assembly (with water  
check if only one rack is dirty).  
switch).  
3. Run customer service test program 3. If current draw is 11A, go to step 4.  
and check incoming current to  
dishwasher while the heater is on.  
4. Check for clogged spray arms or  
filters.  
If not, go to step 5.  
4. Clear any obstructions from filter and  
spray arms.  
5. Check if circulation pump rotates  
freely with power disconnected.  
5. If pump doesn’t rotate freely, check  
for obstructions in pump housing. If  
there are no obstructions, replace  
pump.  
6. Check  
that  
connections  
to  
6. If connectors aren’t properly seated,  
reseat them. If connectors are  
damaged, replace wire harness.  
circulation pump motor, door switch  
(e1) and control are seated properly  
and aren’t damaged.  
7. Measure door switch resistance 7. If the resistance is approximately 0 ,  
(between door switch terminals 1  
and 2) with dishwasher door closed.  
replace circulation pump. If not,  
replace door switch.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Fault  
Steps to determine failure  
Failure Resolution  
Will not fill  
or does not  
fill with  
1. Check if water supply is turned on 1. Turn water supply completely on and  
and water pressure is between 15-  
145 psi (1-10 bar).  
adjust to proper water pressure.  
enough  
water  
2. Check if water inlet screen is  
blocked.  
2. Clean out water line and screen.  
3. Check if float switch (e6) has 3. Check for leaks and drain water from  
activated or water is in dishwasher  
base.  
the base to disengage the float  
switch. If water won’t drain from  
dishwasher tub, see Will Not Drain.  
4. If voltage is not 120V, go to step 5.  
If the voltage is 120V, replace water  
inlet valve.  
4. Run customer service test program  
and measure voltage between  
water inlet valve terminals.  
5. Check that orange wire connections  
to flow meter are seated properly  
and not damaged.  
5. If connectors aren’t properly seated,  
reseat them. If properly seated,  
replace flow meter or harness.  
6. Check that connections to float  
switch (e6) and control are seated  
properly and not damaged.  
6. If connectors aren’t properly seated,  
reseat them. If connectors are  
damaged, replace wire harness.  
7. If resistance is 0 , the float switch  
is stuck closed and should be  
replaced. If resistance is not 0 , go  
to step 8.  
7. Measure float switch (e6) resistance  
between terminals  
4
&
1
(by  
measuring between gray wire (“L”  
terminal) of drain pump (m3) and  
terminal 3 of on/off switch (a1)).  
8. Measure  
water  
inlet  
valve  
8. If resistance is 950 , replace  
resistance (between violet wires).  
control.  
Heater diagnosing  
Test programs heat the water to 150ºF at ~ 2ºF / minute. To save time, don't  
run the entire test – when water circulates and the heater is on, measure the  
incoming current to the dishwasher. If the current is ~ 11A, the heater is OK. If  
the current is ~ 1.5 2A, the control or heater could be faulty.  
At the control or heater, measure the voltage between the large red heater wire  
and a chassis ground or the dw neutral (WHRD on/off switch or flow switch  
wire). If the voltage is 120 VAC, the control is OK. If the voltage is 0, the heater  
relay has failed – replace the control.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
To check the heater, turn off the dishwasher, block up the tank and check the  
resistance of each part of the heater as follows.  
Heater ~ 11  
Hi-Limit ~ .3 Ω  
Flow switch ~ .4. A spring loaded plunger closes it when  
water is flowing, so you must remove the microswitch from  
the heater and close its contacts to measure the resistance.  
TIP: Current can be measured through the red heater wire at the control or  
heater (~ 9.5A). There can be more than one red wire, so check the wiring  
diagram to select the heater wire.  
NOTE: Open door to run test program.  
Making NTC and Hi-  
Limit measurements  
Flow  
switch  
Controls timing out and showing “1”  
Occasionally dishwashers can run for hours, not finish washing & show a “1” in  
the display. This means the module has timed out due to an unidentified  
heating problem -- all heating related parts must be checked until the problem is  
found.  
Heating system checklist if controls time out:  
Check control module heater relay & solder joints.  
Check wire harness & terminals (to control and heater). Controls have been  
replaced when the problem was loose connections.  
Check heater resistance (~ 11).  
Check flow switch (~ 0.4). If flow switch is OK & water doesn’t flow, check  
circulation pump.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Check NTC (~ 55k@72ºF) and Hi-Limit. See NTC resistance chart  
(below).  
IMPORTANT: Whenever a “1” shows in the control display, reset the control  
after fixing the heating problem by running the dishwasher. The module resets  
after the 1st run.  
NTC resistance chart  
Where to  
measure NTC  
resistances  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Water Leaking Past Doors  
Water seldom leaks out of bottom of dishwasher doors. Usually it’s a customer  
or installation issue. Occasionally air pockets (from standing water in loops) or  
kinks in condensation tubes block condensation tubes and cause leaking.  
Pressure builds in tanks, blowing water past lower door seals (usually at start of  
cycles). Draining condensation tubes and straightening out kinks solves these  
occasional problems.  
Checklist if water leaks past doors:  
Make sure condensation tubes are inserted into bases, not connected to  
drains or air gaps.  
Clear and drain condensation tubes, including debris in bases.  
Re-drill wood doors to make them square.  
Straighten kinks in condensation tubes.  
Educate customer on oversudsing (from too much detergent/rinse-aid or  
overly soft water).  
Level dishwasher before attaching under-counter brackets.  
Replace damaged door seals, including replacements cut too short.  
Refill lower racks overfilled with dishes.  
Move flexible cutting boards to left side of dishwasher.  
Cosmetic / Customer Use / Installation Issues  
Control codes during Cancel - Reset -- Customers have pushed / held  
Cancel - Reset buttons while turning dw’s on and entered control coding  
selection or customer service test programs showing codes such as E0, P0,  
P1, C1, P2, etc.  
Not cleaning or locking sump filters.  
Smelly dishwashers -- Often occurs from filters not being cleaned, drain  
hose high loops missing or drain gases being present. If all else is OK, then  
problem can be preservative not purged from tank door gasket.  
Doors leaking or not latching -- Usually an installation issue (dishwasher  
brackets installed before dishwashers are leveled front to back, tanks &  
doors out of square, wooden doors not drilled accurately). Can be blockage  
in condensation tubes or condensation tubes connected to drain hose air  
gaps.  
Inner door damage -- From upper rack during improper shipping and  
handling (dishwashers clamped on wrong sides or dropped).  
Doors hit toe kicks -- Toe kick installation issue.  
Junction boxes -- Comes from wires not being connected correctly during  
installation.  
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Fault Diagnostics  
Dispensers -- Customers using too much detergent, not using rinse-aid &  
not knowing how to close the door.  
Drain hoses not installed properly -- Often no air gap or high loop +  
pinched hoses -- causes poor draining & smelly dishwashers. Most drain  
pumps are mistakenly replaced for drain hose installation issues.  
Outer doors -- Most are dinged during shipment.  
Damaged water valves -- Primarily from fittings being overtightened. A  
damaged valve can allow some water onto kitchen floors.  
Customer self-help diagnosing  
Dishwashers may occasionally exhibit problems unrelated to a dishwasher  
failure. The following fixes can be made by customers without calling for repair.  
Dishes do not dry -- The rinse agent dispenser may be empty. Check the  
rinse-aid dispenser and refill it if necessary. Dishware drying can be  
accelerated and enhanced by opening the dishwasher door slightly and  
propping it open with the top rack.  
Indicator light(s) do not come on -- A fuse may have blown or a circuit  
breaker tripped. Check the fuse or circuit breaker at your fuse box/breaker  
box and replace the fuse or reset the breaker if necessary.  
Dishwasher does not start -- The dishwasher door may not be properly  
shut. Make certain the dishwasher door is shut and latched.  
Dishwasher runs a long time -- If the dishwasher completes the cycle, but  
the run time seems exceptionally long, it may be due to cold incoming water.  
Before starting the dishwasher, open the hot water faucet at the sink nearest  
the dishwasher. Run the water until it runs hot, then turn off the water and  
start the dishwasher.  
Machine cycle does not advance to rinse -- The water supply line may be  
shut off. Check the water supply valve and open it if it’s shut.  
White spots left on dishes -- More rinse agent is needed.  
Water not pumped from dishwasher –  
o Make certain the drain hose isn’t kinked, clogged, or improperly  
installed. Make sure the drain hose is at least 20 inches above the  
floor.  
o Make certain the dishwasher filter system and kitchen sink drain  
aren’t clogged. You may need a plumber rather than a serviceman for  
the dishwasher. If an air gap is installed at sink, it may be clogged.  
Detergent dispenser cover will not shut – The cover may not have been  
shut correctly or a cycle was not finished and should’ve been cancelled.  
Streaks on glassware -- Too much rinse agent is being dispensed.  
Rattling noises -- Utensils may not be properly arranged.  
Suds in dishwasher – The customer may have used the wrong type of  
dishwashing detergent. Use only automatic dishwasher detergents.  
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Technical Specifications  
Unsatisfactory washing results  
o Incorrect amount of detergent.  
o Utensils incorrectly arranged or rack overloaded.  
o Spray arm rotation blocked by utensils.  
o Spray arm nozzles need cleaning.  
o Filters not properly fitted into position.  
o Unsuitable cycle selected.  
VII.  
Technical Specifications  
Dishwasher ratings – Dishwashers are rated 120VAC, 60 Hz, 15A, 1450W (max.).  
Maximum amp draw when heaters running ~ 11A.  
Heater ratings – 120VAC, 1200W, flow-through, heats water ~ 2ºF / minute.  
Noise level – Dependent on model, from 44 db – 56 dB.  
Circulation pump ratings (BLDC motor) – 120VAC, 60 Hz, 100W (~ .13 HP), 3-phase.  
Drain pump ratings – 110 - 127 VAC, 60 Hz, 35W, .84A, 17(9-vane)  
Water inlet pressure range – From 5 120 psi (.3 – 8.27 bar).  
Circulation pump flow rate – Approximately 60 liters/minute (~ 15.85 gallons/minute)  
at a pressure of 420 mbar (6.1 psi).  
Drain pump flow rate – Approximately 10 liters/minute (~ 2.64 gallons/minute) at a  
delivery height (head) of .9m (2.95’).  
Water inlet valve flow rate – Approximately 2 liters/minute (~ .5 gallons/minute).  
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Wiring Diagrams  
VIII.  
Wiring Diagrams  
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Wiring Diagrams  
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