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Enclosed Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your retailer.
Accessories
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this machine model CS-8075.
● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.*
20.
11.
21.
12.
22.
13.
23.
14.
15.
24.
16.
25.
17.
18.
19.
* 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
Part Code
Part Code
No.
Part Name
No.
Part Name
U.S.A.
Others
U.S.A.
Others
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
XC2691-051
XC3098-051
X53840-351
X59370-051
XC3021-051
XC4051-051
X59375-151
14 Screwdriver
XC4237-021
15 Spool cap (large)
16 Spool cap (small)
17 Extra spool pin
18 Spool net
19 Foot controller
20 Thread cassette (on machine)
130012-054
130013-154
XC3834-021
XA5523-050
XC1154-021
XC3664-021
Spool cap (orange)
(on machine)
8
Seam ripper
X54243-001
21
XC3673-021
9
Bobbin (4)
SA156 XA5539-151 22 Needle-changing tool
XC4551-021
XC5247-021
XC5256-021
XA5752-021
10 Needle set
X58358-051
X59296-051
X59476-051
135793-051
23 Operation manual
24 Quick reference guide
25 Spool cap (special)
11 Twin needle
12 Cleaning brush
13 Eyelet punch
Cover A
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
1
2
E
D
3
C
B
A
4
?
5
6
9
8
7
7
1 Thread cassette compartment cover
Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine
and raise and lower the needle. (page Cover D)
2 Thread cassette compartment
Insert a thread cassette into the thread cassette
compartment.
0 Operation panel
Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation
panel. (page Cover E)
3 Thread cassette eject lever
Press this lever to eject the installed thread cassette.
A Bobbin winder
4 Thread tension dial
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
B Bobbin thread spool pin
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto this spool
pin in order to wind the bobbin.
5 Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
C Bobbin storage compartment
6 Arm
Store the bobbins designed specifically for this sewing
machine in this compartment.
7 Flap
Use the flap to create a table. When the sewing
machine is not being used, store the machine with the
flap folded up. Remove the flap to sew cylindrical
pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
D Bobbin winder cover
Open this cover when winding the bobbin.
E Thread guide for bobbin winding
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.
8 Sliding leg
Pull out the sliding leg during free-arm sewing.
Cover B
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———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
Right-side/rear view
Needle and presser foot
section
1
1
2
2
3
3
7
7
6
4
4
6
5
5
1 Buttonhole lever
1 Handle
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
2 Needle bar thread hook
2 Balance wheel
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
hook.
Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower
the needle to sew one stitch.
3 Needle plate
3 Main power switch
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.
4 Bobbin cover/shuttle
4 Power supply jack
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the shuttle.
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
5 Feed dogs
5 Foot controller jack
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
6 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
6 Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
7 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
7 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
Memo
● Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you
are learning to use your machine.
Cover C
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
1
2
7
3
6
5
4
1 Thread cassette indicator
6 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the
condition of the sewing machine.
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 47).
Green:
Red:
Off:
A thread cassette can be inserted.
A thread cassette cannot be inserted.
The sewing machine has been turned off
2 Thread cutter button
(Only for models equipped
7 Sewing speed controller
with the thread cutter button)
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 49).
CAUTION
3 Needle position button
● Do not press the thread cutter button after
the threads have already been cut, otherwise
the needle may break, the threads may
become tangled or damage to the machine
may occur.
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
4 Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 45).
Note
● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
5 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
● When cutting thread thicker than #30,
nylon thread or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 49).
Cover D
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and sliders for
specifying how the stitch will be sewn.
1
2
4 5
6
3
7 8
9
1 Stitches
There are 50 stitches. Select stitch 00-49.
A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number.
2 Stitch indicator / 3 Stitch selection key
Press the stitch selection key, and then select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. 50 stitches are available. For
details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 58).
4 Stitch length adjutment indicator/ 5Stitch length adjustment button / 6Stitch length adjustment slider
These are used to adjust the length of the stitch. After pressing the stitch length adjustment button so that the indicator
lights up, slide the stitch length adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length.
7 Stitch width adjustment indicator / 8Stitch width adjustment button / 9Stitch width adjustment slider
These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position. After pressing the stitch width adjustment button so
that the indicator lights up, slide the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width.
Cover E
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———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Enclosed Accessories
Optional Accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1. Side cutter
Part code: SA177, XC3879-002
2. Quilting guide
Part code: SA132, XC2215-002
3. Guide foot
Part code: SA133, XC1957-002
4. Walking foot
Part code: SA140, XC2214-002
5. Quilting foot
Part code: SA129, XC1948-002
Memo
● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized
service center.
1
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6), and then study this
manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.
Sewing Machine Features
2
1
3
4
1 Thread cassette
Easily thread the upper thread by loading a spool of thread into the thread cassette. In addition, simply insert the thread
cassette into the compartment to thread the needle.
2 Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 12)
3 Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches. (page 58)
4 One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 16)
2
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Enclosed Accessories ................................................................................................Cover A
Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B
Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B
Needle and presser foot section ..............................................................................................................Cover C
Right-side/rear view ................................................................................................................................Cover C
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D
Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................2
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................2
Contents ..............................................................................................................................3
Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6
GETTING READY ..............................................................................................9
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................10
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...........................................................................................12
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 12
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 16
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................18
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 22
Using the extra spool pin ................................................................................................................................ 24
(without using the needle threader) ................................................................................................................. 25
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 26
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................30
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 30
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 31
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................35
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 35
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 35
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 37
Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 38
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces ..................................................................................................40
Free-arm sewing .............................................................................................................................................. 40
3
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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................41
Sewing ...............................................................................................................................42
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 43
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 44
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 49
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................50
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................51
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................53
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 53
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 53
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 53
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 54
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 55
UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................57
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................58
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 58
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................60
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 60
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 62
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................64
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 64
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................65
Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................67
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 68
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 71
Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................73
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 74
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................77
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 77
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................79
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 80
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 81
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 81
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 82
Reinforcement Stitching ....................................................................................................85
Eyelet Stitching ..................................................................................................................87
Decorative Stitching ..........................................................................................................88
Fagoting .......................................................................................................................................................... 89
Scallop stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 90
Smocking ........................................................................................................................................................ 90
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 91
Heirloom stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 92
4
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Stitch Settings ....................................................................................................................96
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 96
Maintenance ....................................................................................................................100
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 100
Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 100
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................102
Error messages .................................................................................................................106
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 106
Changing the needle stop position ...................................................................................107
Index ...............................................................................................................................108
5
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Important Safety Instructions
When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:
Read all instructions before using.
DANGER
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine
from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “{” position which represents off, then
remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the machine to the symbol “{” position when making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.
18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
6
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.
IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut
off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in
the plug.
NOTE
The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is
hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
WARNING
DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE
LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL
OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.
The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code:
Blue
Neutral
Live
Brown
As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored
markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.
The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘N’ or colored black or blue.
The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter
‘L’ or colored red or brown.
7
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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully
enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-
up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
•
•
•
•
•
Operation is completed
Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
A power failure occurs during use
Maintaining the machine
Leaving the machine unattended
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or
store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com
8
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1
GETTING READY
Turning the Machine On/Off .................................................................................10
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ...............................................................................12
Upper Threading ....................................................................................................18
Replacing the Needle .............................................................................................30
Replacing the Presser Foot .....................................................................................35
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces .......................................................................................40
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
10
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Turning on the machine
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
1
off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
1
Press the left side of the main power switch on
the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
household electrical outlet.
2
2
1
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
electrical outlet.
3
1 Power supply jack
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
Press the right side of the main power switch
on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
3
Unplug the power supply cord from the
power supply jack.
4
Note
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
Fold the flap at the front of the sewing
machine down toward you.
4
(For U.S.A only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any
way.
Turning the Machine On/Off 11
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing
machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Older model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
Turn on the sewing machine.
Swing up the bobbin thread spool pin.
Move the bobbin thread spool pin up as far as
possible.
1
3
1
Open the bobbin winder cover at the top on
the right side of the sewing machine.
2
1 Bobbin thread spool pin
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
4
1
2
1 Notch
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
12
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Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
CAUTION
5
● Two spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If
the spool cap is too small for the spool
being used, the thread may catch on the
slit in the spool or the needle may break.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
the bobbin thread spool pin.
6
Note
● If a spool of thread 12 mm (1/2 inch) in
diameter and 75 mm (3 inch) high is
inserted onto the bobbin thread spool pin,
use the special spool cap.
Slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread
spool pin.
7
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the bobbin thread spool pin as far as
possible until the right side of the spool
touches the right end of the bobbin thread
spool pin.
2
1
1 12 mm (1/2 inch)
2 75 mm (3 inch)
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 13
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
While using your left hand to hold the end of
9
Memo
the thread that wraps around the thread guide
for bobbin winding, use your right hand to
wind the free end of the thread clockwise
around the bobbin five or six times.
● When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the enclosed spool net over
the spool before placing the spool of thread
onto the spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
1
4
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
0
3
2
1 Spool net
2 Spool
3 Spool pin
4 Spool cap
1
1 Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
Pull out some thread, and then thread the
thread guide for bobbin winding.
Hold the thread with both hands, and then
securely pass the thread as far as possible into
the two slits in the thread guide.
8
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit
in the bobbin winder seat, the thread
may become tangled in the bobbin or the
needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
1
2
1 Thread guide for bobbin winding
2 Two slits
14
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Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(so that the speed will be fast).
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
a
e
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
f
1
1 Sewing speed controller
Press
(start/stop button) once.
b
Remove the spool cap and spool.
g
h
Swing down the bobbin thread spool pin,
close the bobbin winder cover, and then slide
the sewing speed controller back to its
original position.
1
1 Start/stop button
Memo
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is
● When the sewing machine is started or the
balance wheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
wound around the bobbin.
X The bobbin spins slowly when it is full.
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly,
c
d
press
(start/stop button) once.
X The sewing machine stops.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
wound around the bobbin.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 15
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Remove the bobbin cover.
2
Installing the bobbin
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and
hold the end of the thread with your left.
3
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin thread that has been
correctly wound, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the
thread unrolls to the left.
4
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
older models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).
Actual size
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
CAUTION
This model
Older model
● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may
break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the needle plate is indicated
by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
5
hand, and then guide the thread as shown
with your left hand.
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
1
1
2
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
then pull the thread out toward the front.
6
1
1 Bobbin cover
2 Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
1 Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
16
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Reattach the bobbin cover.
7
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
1
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (on the
next page).
● You can begin sewing without pulling up
the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull
up the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 29).
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 17
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
When using the extra spool pin, attach either the
large or small white spool cap, depending on the
About the spool of thread
size of the spool. Use the spool cap with a diameter
With this sewing machine, a spool of thread can be
that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool.
loaded into the enclosed thread cassette, and then
the thread cassette can be threaded. Information
about the spools of thread is described below.
1
2
■ Spools that can be loaded into the thread
cassette
Normally, a spool of thread is loaded into the
thread cassette and used. The spools that can be
loaded must have a diameter smaller than the
orange spool cap and a height shorter than the
mark on the cover of the thread cassette.
1
3
3
1 Spool cap (large)
2 Spool cap (small)
3 Spool
1
Memo
● For details on using the extra spool pin,
refer to “Using the extra spool pin”
(page 24).
2
● When using a spool of cross-wound thread,
install the small white spool cap with some
space between the cap and the spool.
1 Spool cap (orange)
2 Spool
3 Mark on thread cassette compartment cover
■ Spools that cannot be loaded into the thread
cassette
When using spools that cannot be loaded into the
thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool pin.
1
2
3
1 Spool cap (small)
2 Gap
3 Spool
18
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CAUTION
Loading the spool into the
thread cassette
● Two spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If
the spool cap is too small for the spool
being used, the thread may catch on the
slit in the spool or the needle may break.
Load the spool of thread into the enclosed thread
cassette to prepare the upper thread.
Memo
● The order for threading the thread cassette is
indicated on the thread cassette. Also check
the markings on the thread cassette while
threading it.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
Open the thread cassette compartment cover
at the top on the left side of the machine.
2
Upper Threading 19
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left
side of the machine toward the back.
Place the spool for the upper thread onto the
spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the spool pin so that the
thread unwinds from the left, as seen from the
top.
3
6
1
1
1 Thread cassette eject lever
1 Spool
X The thread cassette is raised.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the top, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible until the
down side of the spool touches the down end
of the spool pin.
• If the sewing machine is turned off, the
thread cassette will not be ejected
correctly.
7
Remove the thread cassette.
4
• Only the orange spool cap should be placed
on the spool pin in the thread cassette.
CAUTION
Pull the cover of the thread cassette out
toward you, and then pull off the spool cap
that is inserted onto the spool pin.
5
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin or
the needle may break.
1
2
3
1 Spool cap (orange)
2 Spool pin
3 Cover
20
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While holding the end of the thread with your
right hand and the thread cassette with your
left hand, close the cover.
• When using special thread such as metallic
thread, use the thumb of your left hand to
press down on the area indicated in the
illustration to create an opening that allows
for easier threading.
8
1
2
Pass the thread through the slit in the top of
the thread cassette.
Follow arrow 2 indicated on the thread
9
1 Push
2 Gap
cassette.
Pass the thread along the bottom of the thread
cassette.
a
Follow arrow 4 indicated on the thread
cassette.
Pull the thread to the left and pass it through
the slit along the left side of the thread
cassette.
Follow arrow 3 indicated on the thread
cassette.
0
Pass the thread through the notch in the
lower-right corner of the thread cassette, and
then pull the thread to the left.
Follow arrow 5 indicated on the thread
cassette.
b
1
1 Notch
Upper Threading 21
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Pull the thread under the disc at the front in
c
the lower-left corner and around to the right,
and then cut the thread with the cutter.
Follow arrow 6 indicated on the thread
cassette.
Threading the needle
In this section, the procedures for installing the
thread cassette and threading the needle are
described. The needle threader is used to thread the
needle at the same time that the thread cassette is
inserted.
Memo
● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually”
(page 25).
1
2
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit
up in green.
1
1
1 Disc
2 Cutter
X The spool of thread is now loaded in the
thread cassette.
Note
● Be sure to cut the thread as described
above, otherwise the needle threader
cannot be used to thread the needle.
1 Thread cassette indicator
If the thread cassette indicator is lit up in red,
the needle has not been raised to the correct
position. Press
(needle position button)
once to raise the needle.
1
1 Needle position button
22
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• If the needle is not raised to the correct
position, the needle cannot be threaded with
the needle threader. Be sure to check that
the thread cassette indicator is lit up in green
before inserting the thread cassette.
1
Insert the thread cassette into the thread
cassette compartment.
Slowly press down on the thread cassette until
2
1 Needle bar thread hook
it clicks into place.
X At the same time that the thread cassette is
inserted, the needle is threaded.
X The thread cassette indicator goes off.
• If the needle could not be threaded or the
thread was not passed through the needle
bar thread hook, refer to “Loading the spool
into the thread cassette” (page 19) and
perform the procedure again starting from
step
2
.
CAUTION
● The needle threader is operated when the
needle is threaded. Be sure to keep your
hands and other items away from the
needle, otherwise injuries may occur.
Raise the presser foot lever, carefully pull on
3
the loop of thread passed through the eye of
the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
Carefully pull the loop of thread toward the
rear of the machine.
1
1 Push here
Pass the thread through the presser foot, and
then pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)
of thread toward the rear of the machine.
4
1
1 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch)
X The upper threading is finished.
Upper Threading 23
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Close the thread cassette compartment cover.
5
Using the extra spool pin
When using spools with a size that cannot be loaded
into the thread cassette, use the enclosed extra spool
pin.
X Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
Place the spool of thread onto the extra spool
pin.
1
1
2
Note
● When inserting the thread cassette into its
compartment, slowly press it down.
● If the sewing machine could not be
threaded, try performing the procedure
again starting from loading the spool of
thread into the thread cassette.
1 Extra spod pin
2 Spool
Slide the spool cap for the size of the spool
onto the spool pin.
2
1
1 Spool cap
• For more details, refer to “About the spool of
thread” (page 18).
Insert the tabs on the extra spool pin into the
holes on the top of the thread cassette.
3
24
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Thread the thread cassette with the thread
from the spool on the extra spool pin.
4
Thread the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)
When using special thread, thread with a thickness
of 130/20 or less, the wing needle or the twin needle
which cannot be used with the needle threader,
thread the needle as described below.
Remove the needle.
• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
1
• When using the wing needle, the twin
needle or thread that cannot be used with
the needle threader, be sure to remove the
needle, otherwise the machine may be
damaged.
Check that the thread cassette indicator is lit
up in green, and then insert the thread cassette
into the thread cassette compartment.
• For more details, refer to “Loading the spool
into the thread cassette” (page 19).
2
• For details, refer to
(page 22).
1
through
2
Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool
pin attached) into the thread cassette
compartment.
Use both hands to press down on both sides of
the extra spool pin.
5
X Pass the thread through the needle bar
thread hook.
1
1 Needle bar thread hook
Install a needle.
• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
3
4
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from front to back.
X At the same time that the thread cassette is
inserted, the needle is threaded.
X The extra spool pin is now installed.
Upper Threading 25
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Load the spool for the second thread color
onto the extra spool pin.
3
Using the twin needle
Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel
lines of the same stitch with two different colors.
Both upper threads should have the same thickness
and quality. Be sure to use the enclosed twin needle
and the extra spool pin.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 96).
CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (Part code :
X59296-051).
Use of any other needle may bend the
needle or damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Do not try installing the twin needle
while the thread cassette is not installed,
• For more details, refer to steps
in “Using the extra spool pin” (page 24).
1
through
4
Use the two threads to thread the thread
cassette, and then cut the threads.
Thread the thread cassette along arrows 3
damage to the machine may result.
through 6, indicated on the thread cassette.
Remove the needle.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the needle”
1
(page 32).
Load the spool for the first thread color into
the thread cassette.
2
Thread the thread cassette up to arrow 2,
indicated on the thread cassette.
• For more details, refer to steps
0
through
c
in “Loading the spool into the thread
cassette” (page 19).
• For more details, refer to steps
1
through
9
in “Loading the spool into the thread
cassette” (page 19).
26
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Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool
pin attached) into the thread cassette
compartment.
Remove the thread for the right side of the
stitch from the needle bar thread hook, and
then use it to thread the right needle.
5
8
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
9
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 35).
CAUTION
• For more details, refer to step
the extra spool pin” (page 24).
5
in “Using
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
X Pass both threads through the needle bar
thread hook.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
the sewing machine may be damaged.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
0
Install the twin needle.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the needle”
(page 32).
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 58).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 96).
6
7
Manually thread the left needle with the
thread for the left side of the stitch.
• For details, refer to “Thread the needle
manually” (page 25).
• Select a stitch width of 5,0 mm (3/16 inch) or
less.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
● Slect a stitch width of 5,0 mm (3/16 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may break
or the machine may be damaged.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle dose not touch the
presser foot.
If the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
Upper Threading 27
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to
a
“Starting to sew” (page 45).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Note
● When changing the sewing direction, press
(needle position button) to raise the
needle from the fabric, and then raise the
presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
CAUTION
● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left in the fabric, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
28
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Pull out about 10-15 cm (3/8-5/8 inch) of the
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
the rear of the machine.
5
Pulling up the bobbin thread
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.
1
• Refer to steps
1
through
5
of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 16).
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
2
Reattach the bobbin cover.
6
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
While lightly holding the upper thread with
3
2
your left hand, press
(needle position
button) twice to raise the needle.
1
1
1 Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
out the end of the bobbin thread.
4
Upper Threading 29
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Thread
Fabric Type/Application
Broadcloth
Size of Needle
Type
Size
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
60–80
Medium
Taffeta
weight
75/11–90/14
fabrics
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread
50–80
60–80
Lawn
Georgette
Challis, Satin
Denim
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thin
65/9–75/11
fabrics
50–80
30–50
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thick
fabrics
90/14–100/16
Corduroy
Tweed
50
Jersey
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Stretch
fabrics
Thread for knits
50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
50–80
65/9–90/14
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30
90/14–100/16
30
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Memo
Checking the needle
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
● A 75/11 needle is already installed when
the sewing machine is purchased.
1
2
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and
needle combinations are shown in the
table on the previous page. If the
1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking
combination of the fabric, thread and
needle is not correct, particularly when
sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with
thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the
needle may bend or break. In addition,
the stitching may be uneven or puckered
or there may be skipped stitches.
■ Correct needle
1
1 Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1
1 Flat surface
Replacing the Needle 31
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
4
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
1
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle”.
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
2
1 Screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
1
1 Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
5
1
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
1 Needle stopper
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
1
1 Presser foot lever
32
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While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
■ Using the needle-changing tool
6
Use the enclosed needle-changing tool to replace
the needle as described below.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
Pass the needle through the hole in the
needle-changing tool.
1
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.
2
Using the screwdriver, loosen the needle
clamp screw.
3
Replacing the Needle 33
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Lower the needle-changing tool.
Insert the needle until it touches the needle
stopper, and then use the screwdriver to
tighten the needle clamp screw.
4
7
X The needle can be removed from the needle
bar.
X The needle is installed.
Insert the new needle into the hole in the
needle-changing tool.
Insert the needle with the flat side of the needle
5
Lower the needle-changing tool off of the
needle.
8
toward the rear of the machine.
Lift up the needle-changing tool so that the
fork hooks onto the needle clamp screw.
6
34
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Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
CAUTION
Replace the presser foot as described below.
For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
cutter” (page 62).
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the start/stop
button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever.
3
1
1
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Replacing the Presser Foot 35
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
4
7
1
2
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
Note
foot.
● For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 96).
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
5
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
1
3
2
1 Presser foot holder
2 Notch
3 Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
6
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
36
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Hold the presser foot holder in place with
your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
2
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
1
1 Screwdriver
foot” (page 35).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
Note
2
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
2
1
3
1 Screwdriver
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
1
Replacing the Presser Foot 37
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
CAUTION
Using the optional walking
foot
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
balance wheel toward you and check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
■ Attaching the walking foot
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
■ Removing the walking foot
1
foot holder” (on the previous page).
Press
(needle position button) once or
1
twice to raise the needle.
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
2
onto the needle clamp screw.
1
1
2
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
3
with the screwdriver.
1
1 Presser foot holder screw
38
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Raise the presser foot lever.
3
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.
4
1
1 Presser foot holder screw
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 37).
5
Memo
● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 96).
Replacing the Presser Foot 39
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GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces
Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.
Then, install the flap back to its original
position.
5
Free-arm sewing
Removing the flap allows for free-arm sewing,
making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as
sleeve cuffs and pant legs.
Slide the flap off to the left.
1
X With the flap removed, free-arm sewing is
possible.
Pull the sliding leg (at the bottom of the
machine) out toward you.
2
1
1 Sliding leg
• During free-arm sewing, be sure to pull out
the sliding leg.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
3
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
push the sliding leg back into position.
4
40
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2
SEWING BASICS
Sewing ....................................................................................................................42
Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................50
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...................................................................51
Useful Sewing Tips .................................................................................................53
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
42
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General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Turn on the sewing machine.
Turn on the
machine.
1
2
3
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 11).
↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
Select the stitch.
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Attach the presser
foot.
↓
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
4
Position the fabric. the fabric are aligned correctly.
For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric”
(page 44).
↓
Start sewing.
5
6
Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 45).
↓
Cut the thread at the end of sewing.
For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 49).
Cut the thread.
Sewing 43
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the sewing machine.
1
Lower the presser foot lever.
5
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
Press
(needle position button) once or
2
twice to raise the needle.
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
1
1 Needle position button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
3
4
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the balance
wheel toward you with your right hand to
lower the needle to the starting point of the
stitching.
44
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When the end of the stitching is reached,
press (start/stop button) once.
3
4
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the operation buttons or the foot
controller.
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 49).
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button
(start/stop button).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure
1
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
1
1 Sewing speed controller
Press
(start/stop button) once.
2
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
the side of the sewing machine.
2
1
1
1 Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
1 Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model CS-8075.
• If you continue to hold the start/stop button
pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
the machine will sew at a slow speed.
Sewing 45
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Turn on the sewing machine.
When you are finished sewing, raise the
needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 49).
3
7
Memo
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start or
stop sewing.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
4
● When sewing is stopped, the needle
stay up when sewing is stopped. For details
on setting the machine so that the needle
stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to
“Changing the needle stop position”
(page 107).
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot
controller, otherwise a fire or an electric
shock may occur.
1
1 Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
5
Slower
Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
completely release the foot controller.
6
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
46
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After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until you reach the beginning of the
stitching.
3
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
1
presser foot lever.
1
1 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch
button is held pressed, reverse stitches are
sewn.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button.
4
5
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(start/stop button) or press down
2
on the foot controller.
Press
(start/stop button), or press down
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
1
1 Start/stop button
When the end of the stitching is reached,
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 45).
6
press
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
button).
X The machine starts sewing.
Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.
X
While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.
Sewing 47
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
7
release
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
button).
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing
(reverse/reinforcement stitch
X The machine stops sewing.
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches
on top of each other.
Press
(start/stop button), or press down
8
on the foot controller.
At this time, if the start/stop button is held
pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
2
1
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
sewing machine stops.
Release the start/stop button or foot controller.
9
1 Reverse stitching
2 Reinforcement stitching
1
Memo
3
1
2
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 96).
5
6
4
2
1 Beginning of stitching
2 End of stitching
48
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■ Using the thread cutter button
(Only for models equipped with the thread
cutter button)
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.
When using a model equipped with a thread
cutter button, the thread can easily be cut if the
button is pressed.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
sewing machine is stopped, press
1
(needle position button) once to raise the
needle.
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
1
(thread cutter button) once.
1
1
1 Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
1 Thread cutter button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
2
1
1
1 Presser foot lever
1 Presser foot lever
CAUTION
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
3
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
● Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
1
Note
● Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.
1 Thread cutter
● When sewing with thread thicker than #30,
nylon or metallic threads, or other special
threads, use the thread cutter on the side of
the machine to cut the threads.
Sewing 49
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are
equal.
Turn the thread tension dial downward to loosen
the upper thread.
upper thread
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
If the thread and needle combination is correct for
the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle
types and their uses” on page 30), the thread tension
will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate
setting. However, if the preset thread tension does
not give the desired result or if you are sewing with
special thread or on special fabric, use the thread
tension dial on the left side of the machine to adjust
the tension of the upper thread.
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
1
2
■ Correct thread tension
3
4
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
1
Turn the thread tension dial upward to tighten the
upper thread.
2
Tight
3
4
Loose
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
1
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
1 Thread tension dial
1
2
5
3
4
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Bobbin thread
5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
50
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within
which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 96).
CAUTION
Adjusting the stitch width
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
Press the stitch width adjustment button in
the operation panel.
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
X The stitch width adjustment indicator lights
up.
Slide the stitch width adjustment slider to the
left or right.
2
Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider to the
right makes the stitch width wider; sliding the
slider to the left makes the stitch width
narrower.
1
2
3
1 Stitch width adjustment indicator
2 Stitch width adjustment button
3 Stitch width adjustment slider
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment
slider to the right moves the needle to the right;
sliding the slider to the left moves the needle to
the left.
• To automatically select the stitch width most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch width adjustment button again.
Adjusting the Thread Tension/Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
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51
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the stitch length
Press the stitch length adjustment button in
the operation panel.
1
X The stitch length adjustment indicator lights
up.
Slide the stitch length adjustment slider to the
left or right.
2
Sliding the stitch length adjustment slider to
the right makes the stitching coarser; sliding
the slider to the left makes the stitching finer.
1
2
4
3
5
1 Stitch length adjustment indicator
2 Stitch length adjustment button
3 Stitch length adjustment slider
4 Straight stitch
5 Zigzag stitch
• To automatically select the stitch length most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch length adjustment button again.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
52
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Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 55).
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing
direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
1
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine
stopped sewing, press
(needle position
button) to lower the needle.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
2
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
3
Useful Sewing Tips 53
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
CAUTION
Sewing thick fabrics
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
1
1 Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
1
lever.
Press the black button on the left side of the
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
2
presser foot.
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
3
feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
54
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Sewing thin fabrics
Sewing an even seam
allowance
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
1
1 Stabilizer material or paper
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
1
5
1 Basting
4
3
1
2
6
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
3 Centimeters
4 Inches
5 Needle plate
6 16 mm (5/8 inch)
Useful Sewing Tips 55
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SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————
56
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3
UTILITY STITCHES
Blind Hem Stitching ...............................................................................................65
Zipper Insertion .....................................................................................................73
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .................................................................77
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ...............................................................79
Reinforcement Stitching .........................................................................................85
Eyelet Stitching....................................................................................................... 87
Decorative Stitching ...............................................................................................88
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Press
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Each press of increases the number by
(stitch selection key). The
5
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
one. After “9” (“4” for the number on the left) is
reached, the number returns to “0”. Pressing
on the right changes the second digit
stitch (
left needle position) is selected.
(ones) and pressing
the first digit (tens).
on the left changes
A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot
that should be used appears below the stitch
number.
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
X The stitch is selected.
1
Determine which presser foot should be used
with the selected stitch.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
Settings” (page 96).
If necessary, width and length adjust the stitch
length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
2
6
stitches, refer to the following pages.
■ [Example] Selecting stitch
.
Attach the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch
04.
3
1
With
on the right, select “4”, and with
on the left, select “0”.
Turn on the sewing machine.
4
...
...
X When the machine is first turned on, “00”
will be displayed.
58
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To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch
width adjustment slider to the left or right.
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch width.
2
1
2
3
4
5
1 Stitch width adjustment indicator
2 Stitch width adjustment button
3 Stitch width adjustment slider
4 Narrow
5 Wide
To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch
length adjustment slider to the left or right.
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch length.
3
1
2
4
3
5
1 Stitch length adjustment indicator
2 Stitch length adjustment button
3 Stitch length adjustment slider
4 Short
5 Long
Memo
● For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 51).
Selecting Stitching 59
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Seven stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Two stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Preventing fraying in medium weight
and thin fabrics
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
G
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and 5.0
fabrics that fray easily (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
1
4
G
1
foot” (page 35).
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
2
3
1 Needle drop point
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
1 Guide
60
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Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzagstitch
(center
Preventing fraying (center baseline/
reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
needle
(1/16) (0–3/16)
position)
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and 5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
stretch fabrics
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
1
foot” (page 35).
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
1 Needle drop point
2
3
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
1
1 Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches 61
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. The following four
stitches can be used to sew overcasting. When the side cutter is attached, be sure to use the settings in the
ranges listed below.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Sewing straight stitches while cutting
the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–2.5
2.5
0.2–5.0
(0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Preventing fraying in thin and
mediumweight fabrics while cutting
the fabric
3.5
3.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
S
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
while cutting the fabric
5.0
3.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting
the fabric
3.5
3.5–5.0
1.4
0.0–4.0
(1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16)
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
onto the needle clamp screw.
2
1
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
1
foot” (page 35).
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
3
2
1
1 Notch in presser foot holder
2 Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
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Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
side cutter is securely attached.
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
4
8
CAUTION
● If the thread cassette is to be installed
with the side cutter attached, be sure to
lower the presser foot lever. If the
presser foot lever remains raised, the
needle threader will hit the presser foot,
which may result in damages.
1
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
5
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
sewing.
9
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
6
(page 58).
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
7
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
1
Memo
● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
● After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
1 2 cm (1/16 inch)
● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
Overcasting Stitches 63
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch (left
needle
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or
pintucks (left baseline/reverse
stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
position)
Straight
stitch
(center
needle
position)
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or
pintucks (center baseline/reverse
stitching)
2.5
0.2–5.0
J
–
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Triple
stretch
stitch
Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch
fabrics
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.5–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 49).
6
Basic stitching
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider
to the right moves the needle to the right; sliding
the slider to the left moves the needle to the left.
foot” (page 35).
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
3
(page 58).
beginning of the stitching.
4
5
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 45).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 47).
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Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem stitching on mediumweight 0.0
2.0
1.0–3.5
+3 – –3
R
R
fabrics
(0)
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics
+3 – –3
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and then baste it about 5 mm
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
1
3
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.
4
foot” (page 35).
2
1
3
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
4
5
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Desired edge of hem
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
then position the fabric with the wrong side
2
R
facing up.
2
1
3
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Guide
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting
Blind Hem Stitching 65
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch enough of the
hem fold, move the stitch width adjustment
lever to the right. This makes the stitch wider
to move the needle closer onto the fold.
6
R
1
1 Needle drop point
1
2
1
2
3
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and
Length” (page 51).
3
2
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
1 Needle drop point
2 Wider stitch
7
8
3 Narrower stitch
Remove the basting stitching.
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold, move the stitch width adjustment lever
to the left. This makes the stitch narrower to
move the needle away from the fold.
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
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Buttonhole Stitching
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Five stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and
mediumweight fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Buttonholes with bar tacks on both
ends for stabilized fabrics
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Buttonhole
stitch
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
A
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16)
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
(15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush 7.0
3.0–7.0
0.5
0.3–1.0
fabrics
(1/4)
(1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing
stitch
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
Button sewing
M
(1/16) (0–3/16)
Buttonhole Stitching 67
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
1 Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
and length of the buttonhole.
1
1
1
2
5
3
1 Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
4
2
A
1 Button guide plate
2 Presser foot scale
3 Pin
4 Marks on buttonhole foot
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
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■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
1
1 Do not reduce the gap.
1 Presser foot scale
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
2 Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
1
1
2
1 Buttonhole lever
1 10 mm (3/8 inch)
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
1
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
foot” (page 35).
3
4
5
2
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
7
1
A
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
2
1 Mark on fabric
2 Red marks on buttonhole foot
Buttonhole Stitching 69
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
CAUTION
8
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
9
0
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch length.
1
3 1
2
1 Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin
and open the buttonhole.
1 Stitch length adjustment button
2 Stitch length adjustment slider
a
3 Stitch length adjustment indicator
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 52).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
■ Changing the stitch width
1
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch width.
1 Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
3 1
2
1 Stitch width adjustment button
2 Stitch width adjustment slider
3 Stitch width adjustment indicator
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
1
width” (page 51).
1 Eyelet punch
Memo
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
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■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
1
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
1
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
2
machine on the base, to
(to the right as
seen from the front of the machine).
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
2
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
or
.
3
4
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
1
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
1 Drop feed lever
5
6
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
3
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
7
8
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Buttonhole Stitching 71
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
CAUTION
4
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Start sewing.
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
9
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement
1
stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
1 Button
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
0
Select stitch
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
.
5
When you are finished attaching the button,
a
slide the drop feed lever to
(to the left as
seen from the front of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
6
7
8
Set the stitch length adjustment slider to the
shortest stitch length setting.
Turn the balance wheel toward you to check
that the needle correctly goes into the two
holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
72
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Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch(center
needle
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and pintucks
2.5
0.2–5.0
–
–
I
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
position)
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
3
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
1
2
3
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
and then baste the zipper in place.
4
1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening
2
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
1
1
3
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 64).
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Zipper
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
2
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
1
5
1
3
2
I
4
2
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Zipper Insertion 73
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Select stitch
.
Inserting a side zipper
6
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper for side openings and back
openings.
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
1
2
3
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 End of zipper opening
Topstitch around the zipper.
7
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
1
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 64).
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 Basting stitching
4 End of zipper opening
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
edge of the fabric.
2
1
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
3
2
4
Remove the basting stitching.
8
1 Basting stitching
2 Reverse stitches
3 Wrong side of fabric
4 End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the
wrong side of the fabric.
3
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
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Press the seam allowance so that the right side
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
CAUTION
4
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the balance
wheel toward you to check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
a different stitch is selected or the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may
bend or break.
1
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
8
of the zipper.
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge
of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
5
2
1
1 Zipper teeth
2 Basting stitching
CAUTION
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
6
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
9
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
I
2
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
.
7
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Zipper Insertion 75
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and
then baste the other side of the zipper to the
fabric.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and
then raise the presser foot lever.
0
c
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,
and then continue sewing.
d
1
1 Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
of zipper foot “I”.
a
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
6
, change it to the left pin.
1
I
2
1 Pin on the left side
2 Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
b
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the
side of the presser foot.
3
2
4
1
5
1 Right side of fabric
2 End of zipper opening
3 Reverse stitches
4 Beginning of stitching
5 Basting stitching
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Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stretch
stitch
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Stretch fabrics
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
J
3-point
zigzag stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Attaching elastic
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
1
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
.
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
1
2
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
1 Elastic tape
2 Pin
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 77
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Select stitch
.
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
4
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Zigzag stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Attaching appliqués (center baseline/
reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(1/16) (0–3/16)
Appliqué quilting, free-motion
quilting, satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.0–4.0
(1/16) (0–3/16)
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Attaching appliqués
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
Attaching appliqués and binding
Attaching appliqués and binding
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm from the right edge
of the presser foot)
5.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
(7/32)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Piecing
straight
stitch
J
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm from the left edge
of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Joining
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Patchwork stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Mock hand
quilting
stitch
Straight stitch quilting that looks hand 0.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
quilting
(0)
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
7.0
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Stippling
(1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 79
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
5
Appliqué stitching
(page 58).
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm
(1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1
Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then
begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué,
making sure that the needle drops just outside
of the appliqué.
6
1
1 Seam allowance
Place a pattern made of thick paper on the
back of the appliqué, and then fold over the
seam allowance using an iron.
2
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
3
1
1 Basting stitching
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
4
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
80
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Piecing
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
1
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans over both pieces.
2
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
or
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
.
1
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
.
1
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 81
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Memo
Quilting
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
1
Attach the walking foot.
2
walking foot” (page 38).
Select stitch
or
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly stretch the fabric while
sewing.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
82
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■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric
can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
1
holder.
ꢀ Walking foot
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
1
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 37).
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
2
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
ꢀ Presser foot holder
1
2
3
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
guide aligns with the seam that has already
2
been sewn.
1 Pin on quilting foot
2 Presser foot holder screw
3 Needle clamp screw
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
3
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1
1 Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 83
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear
of the machine on the base, to (to the
right as seen from the front of the machine).
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
lever to (to the left as seen from the
front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned
at the left.
4
7
1
1 Feed dog position switch
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
5
6
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and
then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
1
1 Pattern
84
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Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Triple
stretch
stitch
Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and
inseams
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Bar tack
stitch
Reinforcing the ends of openings,
such as the corners of pockets
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
A
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Triple stretch stitching
Bar tack stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
1
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
Select stitch
.
2
3
(page 58).
1
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 45).
2
3
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of bar tack
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
Reinforcement Stitching 85
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
2
1
Select stitch
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
2
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
6
1
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
7
8
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 52).
1
1 Do not reduce the gap.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
5
1
1 Buttonhole lever
86
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Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4,
15/64 and 3/16 inch).
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Eyelet stitch
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7.0, 6.0 or
5.0 (1/4,
15/64 or
3/16)
Sewing eyelets, for example,
on belts
7.0
(1/4)
–
–
N
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
Start sewing.
1
5
6
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
center of the eyelet.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
.
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Adjust the stitch width to select the desired
eyelet size.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
6 mm
(15/64 inch)
7 mm
(1/4 inch)
5 mm
(3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch
Width and Length” (page 51).
Memo
● If thin thread is used, the stitching may be
coarse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice
before remove the fabric, one on top of the
other.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
4
Eyelet Stitching 87
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Presser
Foot
Pattern
Stitch Name
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Fagoting
stitch
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/25–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Joining
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Decorative bridging stitches
J
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Smocking
stitch
Smocking fabrics to add
texture and elasticity
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Scallop
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Satin scallop stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
3.5
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
(1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching,
etc.
6.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
N
Decorative
stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.5
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on
5.0
1.5–7.0
4.0
1.5–4.0
thin, mediumweight and plain (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
weave fabrics
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
J
Decorative
stitch
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Decorative stitching
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
88
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Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
6
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
1
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
2
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
3
1
2
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
7
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
2 Basting stitching
3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
3
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
or
.
4
5
(page 58).
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 51).
Decorative Stitching 89
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Scallop stitching
Smocking
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 52) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 50).
Select stitch
.
2
2
3
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
3
1
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
Trim along the stitches.
4
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
4
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
90
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Select stitch
or
.
Joining
5
6
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Stitch between the straight stitches.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
2
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
allowances.
7
2
1
1
3
1 Wrong side of fabric
3 Straight stitch
Select stitch
,
or
.
3
4
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
1
1 Right side of fabric
Decorative Stitching 91
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
Start sewing.
4
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
Install the wing needle.
1
CAUTION
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
turn the balance wheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
“Replacing the needle” (page 32).
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Threading
the needle manually“ (page 25)
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
2
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
The fabric is turned and sewn twice
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select a stitch.
3
The stitches that can be used are
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
1
,
,
or
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less.
92
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Attach monogramming foot “N”.
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
2
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
.
Pull out several threads from two sections of
the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
3
4
1
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
along the right edge of the frayed section.
N
1
1 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
2
Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite
side.
5
6
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
so that it looks like the previous stitching.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 35).
Select stitch
.
3
4
N
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 58).
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
N
Decorative Stitching 93
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UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
94
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4
APPENDIX
chapter.
Stitch Settings .........................................................................................................96
Maintenance ........................................................................................................100
Troubleshooting ...................................................................................................102
Error messages .....................................................................................................106
Changing the needle stop position .......................................................................107
Index.....................................................................................................................108
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–5.0
J
No Reverse
Yes Reverse
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Straight
stitch
Attaching zippers, basic
J/I stitching, sewing gath-
ers or pintucks, etc.
2.5
0.2–5.0
–
–
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Attaching sleeves, sew-
Triple stretch
stitch
ing inseams, sewing
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
No
stretch fabrics and dec-
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
orative stitching
Sewing stretch fabrics
J
1.0
1.0–3.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
Stretch stitch
Zigzag stitch
Yes
and decorative stitching (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
J
Yes Reverse
Overcasting on medi-
umweight or stretch
fabrics, attaching elas-
tic, darning, etc.
3-point zigzag
stitch
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
Yes
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Overcasting on thin or
mediumweight fabrics
3.5
2.5–5.0
2.0
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
G
G
J
No
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
2.5–5.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
No
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
Yes
(3/32) (1/32–3/16)
Blind hem stitching on
mediumweight fabrics
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforce-
ment
R
R
J
+3– –3
No
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem stitch
Appliqué stitch
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0.0
(0)
2.0
1.0–3.5
Reinforce-
ment
+3– –3
2.5–5.0
No
(1/16) (1/16–1/8)
3.5
2.5
1.6–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
Appliqué stitching
Scallop stitching
Yes
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Satin scallop
stitch
5.0
2.5–7.0
0.5
0.1–1.0
Reinforce-
ment
N
Yes
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
96
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name
Joining stitch
Fagoting stitch
Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching (3/16)
4.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
J
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
sewing overcasting on
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching (3/16)
5.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
J
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Fagoting and decora-
tive stitching
5.0
2.5–7.0
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
2.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
Decorative stitching
Decorative stitching
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching
5.0
1.5–7.0
1.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
N
N
N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Lace sewing, decora-
tive hemming, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.6–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4)
6.0
1.5–7.0
3.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
5.0
1.5–7.0
3.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
N
N
N
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
No
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/16–1/4)
(1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
5.0
1.5–7.0
4.0
1.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
Decorative hemming
on thin, mediumweight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitch-
ing, etc.
5.0
1.5–7.0
2.5
1.5–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Stitch Settings 97
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium-
weight fabrics
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
A
A
A
A
A
A
N
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have back-
ings
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
5.0
3.0–5.0
0.4
0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Buttonhole
stitch
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.0
0.5–2.0
(15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
1.5
1.0–3.0
(15/54) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/32) (1/64–1/16)
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes
loose
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
2.0
1.0–3.0
0.4
0.3–1.0
Bar tack stitch
Eyelet stitch
(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
7.0, 6.0,
Automatic
No reinforce-
ment
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
5.0 (1/4,
15/64,
3/16)
–
–
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the right edge of the
presser foot)
5.5
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
Reinforce-
J
J
No
No
No
No
(7/32)
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
ment
Piecing straight
stitch
Piecing straight stitch-
ing (with a seam allow-
ance of 6.5 mm from
the left edge of the
presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
0.2–5.0
Reinforce-
ment
No
Yes
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Straight stitch
that looks hand-
sewn (for quilt-
ing)
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
J
J
No
No
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
(3/32) (1/16–3/16)
ment
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Reinforce-
ment
No
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
No
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
0.5–5.0
1.2
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
No
(1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Quilting stitch
(for stippling)
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
1.6
1.0–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
J
No
(1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
N
N
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
No
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
Cross-stitches
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
No
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
98
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Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7.0
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
For decoration, etc.
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
(1/4)
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Decorative
stitches
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
0.2–4.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32) (1/64–3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Satin stitches
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
0.4
0.1–1.0
Reinforce-
ment
(3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
Stitch Settings 99
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the shuttle
Cleaning the machine
surface
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
Turn off the sewing machine.
1
CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries
or an electric shock may occur.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you.
2
1
1 Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
100
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Turn the balance wheel toward you until the
tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of
the race shelf.
Check that the edge of the race shelf is
positioned as in step , and then insert the
shuttle so that the projection on the shuttle
aligns with the spring.
3
6
3
3
1
4
1
2
1 Shuttle race
2 Shuttle
3 Edge of the shuttle race
4 Tip of the shuttle hook
2
• Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward
you. Turning the balance wheel away from
you may damage the machine.
2
Remove the shuttle.
Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out.
4
1
1 Projection
2 Spring
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.
7
1
1 Shuttle
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
5
CAUTION
● Never use a shuttle that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
shuttle (part code: XC3153-051), contact
your nearest authorized service center.
● Be sure that the shuttle is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may
break.
1
2
1 Cleaning brush
2 Shuttle race
• Do not apply oil to the shuttle.
Maintenance 101
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The machine is not turned on.
Turn on the machine.
page 11
The start/stop button was not
pressed.
Press the start/stop button.
Lower the presser foot lever.
page 45
page 44
The sewing
machine does
not operate.
The presser foot lever is raised.
Do not use the start/stop button
when the foot controller is con-
nected. To use the start/stop button,
disconnect the foot controller.
The start/stop button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected.
page 45
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Correctly install the needle.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
page 35
Replace the needle.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 30
page 96
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
page 50
–
The fabric is pulled too much.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Lightly guide the fabric.
The needle
breaks.
Correctly install the spool.
page 18
The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
–
–
–
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 12
102
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Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the nee-
dle bar thread hook).
Correct the upper threading.
page 18
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The selected needle is not appropri- Select a needle that is appropriate
ate for the thread being used. for the type of stitch being used.
page 30
page 50
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
The thread is tangled, for example,
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
in the shuttle.
page 100
page 31
–
the shuttle.
The upper
thread breaks.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
The area around the hole in the nee- Replace the needle plate.
dle plate is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
–
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 12
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
Replace the bobbin.
page 16
–
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the shuttle.
The thread is tangled.
page 100
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 12
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 18
page 16
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 30
The thread ten-
sion is incorrect.
The presser foot holder is incorrectly Correctly install the presser foot
page 37
page 50
installed.
holder.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin
designed specifically for this
machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 12
Troubleshooting 103
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Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
page 16, 18
page 18
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly, or the bobbin is incor-
rectly installed.
Correctly thread the upper thread
and correctly install the bobbin
thread.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the spool.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 30
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 31
page 52
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too coarse.
Shorten the stitch length or sew with
stabilizer material under the fabric.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
page 50
page 18
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
page 30
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 31
page 32
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the shuttle.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the shuttle.
page 100
page 100
page 18
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the shuttle.
Clean the shuttle.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
A high-pitched
noise is made
while sewing.
Replace the shuttle.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The shuttle is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
–
Incorrect bobbins will not work prop-
erly. Only use a bobbin designed spe-
cifically for this machine.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
page 12
The needle was not raised.
Press the needle position button. The
The thread does
not pass through
the eye of the
needle.
The thread cassette indicator is lit in thread cassette indicator lights up in
page 22
page 32
page 96
red.
green.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
The presser foot that is used is not
Correctly install the needle.
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
The thread tension is incorrect.
page 50
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
page 100
104
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Symptom
Probable Cause
The feed dogs are lowered.
The stitch is too fine.
Remedy
Reference
page 83
page 52
Slide the drop feed lever to the left.
Lengthen the stitch length.
The presser foot that is used is not
Attach the presser foot that is appro-
The fabric does
not feed.
appropriate for the type of stitch that priate for the type of stitch that you
page 96
you wish to sew.
wish to sew.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean
the shuttle.
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the shuttle.
page 100
The sewing lamp
does not come on.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
–
Troubleshooting 105
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Error messages
If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed
incorrectly, an error message appears in the stitch indicator. Follow the instructions that appear.
If you press
(Stitch selection key) or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Error Message
Probable Cause
The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button
or thread cutter button was pressed while the presser
foot was raised.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was
selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the
buttonhole lever is lowered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the
start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever
is raised.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position
button or thread cutter button was pressed while the
bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot control-
ler was connected.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button
or the thread cutter button was pressed while no thread
cassette was installed.
You tried to start sewing while the needle is lowered.
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed, a beep is sounded.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops. Be
sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
106
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Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the
machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
Turn off the sewing machine.
1
While pressing the left stitch selection key
2
(
), turn on the sewing machine.
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.
Memo
• Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.
Changing the needle stop position 107
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APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Index
Symbols
+ key ....................................................................Cover E
fagoting .........................................................................89
features ...........................................................................2
foot controller jack ............................................... Cover C
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................61
A
accessories ........................................................... Cover A
B
bar tack .........................................................................85
bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................12
bobbin-winding ............................................................12
button sewing ...............................................................71
M
C
changing the needle ......................................................32
changing the needle stop position ...............................107
cleaning ......................................................................106
cleaning brush .............................................Cover A, 101
crazy quilt stitching .......................................................81
curves ...........................................................................53
operation beep ............................................................106
operation manual ................................................. Cover A
operation panel ......................................Cover B, Cover E
optional accessories ........................................................1
overcasting stitches .......................................................60
E
elastic tape ....................................................................77
electrical outlet .............................................................11
error messages ............................................................106
even seam allowance ....................................................55
eyelet ............................................................................87
eyelet punch ...........................................Cover A, 70, 87
108
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P
T
patchwork stitching .......................................................81
piecing ..........................................................................81
pocket corners ..............................................................85
positioning fabric ..........................................................44
presser foot lever ..................................................Cover D
thread tension dial .........................................Cover B, 50
trial sewing ...................................................................53
Q
quick reference guide .......................................... Cover A
quilting .........................................................................82
U
R
upper thread .................................................................18
rear view .............................................................. Cover C
V
S
screwdriver ...................................................................32
stitch length ..................................................................52
stitch selection key ................................................Cover E
stitch settings ................................................................96
stitch width ...................................................................51
straight stitch .................................................................64
stretch fabrics ................................................................55
wing needle ..................................................................92
Index 109
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ENGLISH
885-S06
XC5247-021
Printed in China
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