Bose® Virtually Invisible® 191 Speakers
May 13, 2003 AM267565_00_V.pdf Bose Corporation
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Contents
Where to find...
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Before you begin... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
What makes this speaker better also makes it different . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
4
4
Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Unpacking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Other equipment you’ll need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Consider which shape you prefer for your speakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Considering your wall type and the approach it requires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Accessories that can help . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Use special care in cutting through plaster and lath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Installing in a pre-wired room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Installing in an exterior wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Deciding on speaker placement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Select the general wall area for one speaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
5
5
6
6
7
7
7
8
8
9
Using speaker cord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Prepare the cord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Planning to run speaker cord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Before the wallboard goes up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Where the walls are finished . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Steps to Installing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Before you make any holes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Drill a pilot hole for testing the wall space . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Using the template for this first step . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Drilling the pilot hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Testing the space behind the hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Repairing a pilot hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Passing the pilot hole test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Prepare the wall for inserting the speaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Using the template a second time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Cutting the speaker hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Insert and wire the speaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Insert the speaker into the opening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Make the speaker connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Test the speaker now . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Secure the speaker to the wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
If the speaker looks crooked . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
When the grille is finally in place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Choosing to paint the speakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Painting the grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Painting the frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Reference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Customer service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Warranty period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Technical information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
For your records
Serial numbers are located on the left side, near the top of each of the Virtually Invisible® 191
speakers.
Serial numbers:______________________________ and __________________________________
Dealer name:_______________________________________________________________________
Dealer phone:_____________________________Purchase date: __________________________
We suggest you keep your sales receipt and warranty card together with this owner’s guide.
3
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Introduction
Before you begin...
Please be sure to read this guide carefully before you do any cutting. There are many
factors to consider when choosing a location for your speakers.
Thank you for choosing to install Bose® Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers in your room.
Innovative engineering and advanced design enable these speakers to deliver Bose quality
performance for big impact in spite of their small size.
Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers feature an Articulated Array® speaker configuration
that delivers the type of clear, lifelike sound and even coverage known as Bose Stereo
Everywhere® speaker performance.
What makes this speaker better also makes it different
When installed, Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers take up very little wall space. What isn’t
apparent is their advanced enclosure design, shown in Figure 1. It ensures predictably fine
performance wherever the speakers are installed, regardless of the size and shape of the wall
space. It also helps prevent the speaker sound from invading other rooms, a common prob-
lem with installed speakers of more conventional design.
Figure 1
Speaker frame screws
Rectangular grille
Size and shape of the
speaker enclosure, as
shipped with the rectangu-
lar frame attached
Rectangularspeaker
frame
Speaker face
Dogleg clamps
Dogleg clamp
screws
Speaker enclosure
4
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Preparation
Unpacking
Carefully unpack the speakers. Save all packing materials, which provide the safest means to
transport your speakers as needed. If any part of the speaker pair appears damaged, do not
use the pair. Notify Bose or your authorized Bose® dealer immediately. For Bose contact infor-
mation, refer to the address list included in the carton.
Check to be sure the carton includes all the parts shown in Figure 2.
Note: Now is a good time to find the serial numbers on the side of each speaker. Copy those
numbers onto your warranty card and in the “For your records” space on page 3.
Figure 2
Round speaker frames
Round speaker grilles
Speakers
Contents of the carton:
• 2 Speakers, rectangular
frames attached
• 2 Rectangular speaker
grilles
• 1 Rectangular paint shield
• 1 Rectangular template
• 2 Round speaker frames
• 2 Round speaker grilles
• 1 Round paint shield
• 1 Round template
Rectangular
speaker grilles
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paint shield
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Other equipment you’ll need
Hardware for securing the speaker to a wall or ceiling comes attached to the speaker. But you
will need a variety of other equipment, including tools, to prepare the surface for installing the
speakers (Figure 3).
Figure 3
Phillips-head
Items required to install the
speakers as instructed
screwdriver
Carpenter’s level*
Speaker cord**
Tape measure
Sharp pencil
Half-inch spade bit
Power drill
Keyhole saw****
Sturdy wire
(such as a coat hanger)
that is 22 inches long
Wire cutter/stripper
Painter’s tape***
Protective eyewear
*Carpenter’s level is suggested for use when installing speakers in a wall.
**Speaker cord specifications are provided in “Using speaker cord,” beginning on page 11.
***Painter’s tape or other tape with light adhesive that will not damage paint or wallpaper.
****Cutting tool – For drywall: a keyhole saw, drywall saw, rotary cutting tool, or jigsaw
For plaster and lath: a saber saw or a rotary cutting tool
5
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Preparation
Wear clothing appropriate for the job, and consider using a drop cloth or other material to
protect the area from debris. How and where you install the speakers will determine your
need for optional equipment.
Optional items:
• A wire snake for running speaker cord behind wallboard
• A sturdy stool or ladder for installing speakers above your head
• Gloves and protection for your mouth, nose, and eyes for working with insulation
Consider which shape you prefer for your speakers
The design of your new Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers makes them well-suited to either wall
or ceiling installation. You also have a choice of a rectangular or round speaker face – the part
that is visible when the speaker is installed. Consider which shape will work best in the loca-
tion you choose for the speakers.
If you prefer the round shape, it is easy to remove the rectangular frames and replace them
with the round frames provided in the carton. You can do it now or wait until you know for
sure where each speaker will fit. However, be sure to make that change before you insert
either speaker into the wall or ceiling.
Note: The lip of the speaker frame prevents the speaker from slipping behind the wall and
out of reach. Do not remove the frame while the speaker is in the wall.
Figure 4
Replacing the rectangular
speaker frame with the
round frame
If you choose the round frames, use the round template provided in the carton. A round paint
shield is also supplied, in case you decide to paint the speaker.
Considering your wall type and the approach it requires
For working in a pre-wired room of finished construction with 2 x 4 stud walls covered with
wallboard, refer to “Steps to Installing,” beginning on page 15. These instructions cover
installation of the speakers, with either a rectangular or round grille, in a wall or ceiling.
If your installation is different, use the information below as it applies.
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Preparation
Accessories that can help
For installation in a drop ceiling (where tile is installed below the ceiling joists), Bose offers an
optional Drop Ceiling Kit (Product Code #031355) for two speakers. It protects the tile from
bearing the weight of the speakers. Instructions are included with the kit.
For installation in new construction, Bose offers a Rough-in Kit (Product Code #031353) for
two speakers. It is designed for use after the studs are in place and before the wallboard is
added to reserve a place for the speakers and indicate where the wallboard hole should be
made. It also protects the wallboard by providing additional support for the dogleg clamps
that secure the speaker to the wall. Instructions are included with the kit.
For more information or to order an accessory, contact your Bose® dealer. Or, to contact Bose
directly, refer to the address list included in the carton.
Use special care in cutting through plaster and lath
For wall construction of plaster and lath, use special care to prevent plaster from cracking:
• After you have drawn an outline of the hole to cut, tape around the outline and use a sharp
blade to make shallow cuts where the hole will be.
• Then, within the outline only, chip the plaster away until you expose the lath underneath.
• Finally, cut through the lath very carefully. Using an electric sabre saw can be quick but
risky. We recommend using a hand saw and proceeding cautiously to avoid damaging the
surrounding plaster.
Installing in a pre-wired room
An installation is simplest when the room has been pre-wired during construction. In that
case, the builder will have left speaker cord within easy reach of the intended speaker
positions.
How to determine pre-wiring
If you are not sure that you have a pre-wired room, or do not know where the wiring is
located, check the architectural drawings of your room or call the builder.
CAUTION: It is important to know where the pre-wired cord is to prevent damaging it while
drilling or cutting into the wall.
In the ideal situation, after cutting the speaker hole you can simply reach inside to locate the
length of cord the builder has installed.
What to do when the room is not pre-wired
In this case, you will need to run speaker cord from the receiver or amplifier through the wall
to the area you have chosen for installing the speakers.
If you have not done this before, be sure you understand the steps involved before you get
underway. Having a friend who can help with this step is advisable, too.
Information on running speaker cord in new construction is provided in “Before the wallboard
goes up,” beginning on page 13.
For running speaker cord inside finished walls, refer to “Where the walls are finished,” begin-
ning on page 13.
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Preparation
Installing in an exterior wall
If you choose to install these speakers in an exterior wall (abutting the outside of your house),
you will undoubtedly encounter insulation behind the wallboard. This can complicate the
installation, requiring you to trim and push malleable insulation out of the way. You will need
to wear eye protection and gloves for working with fiberglass insulation.
WARNING: If you believe the insulation inside a wall may be composed of asbestos, do not
cut into the wall. Choose a different location for the speakers instead.
Insulation will also impede your use of a pilot hole to test the size of the space behind the
wallboard. Doing such a test is recommended to make sure the space is large enough before
cutting a speaker-sized hole.
Special considerations in cold climate regions
With exterior wall installations in regions where outdoor temperatures dip below freezing for
days at a time, using a humidifier can cause condensation to form inside the speakers. This
can be more of a problem if the speakers are mounted upside down.
If you must mount in an exterior wall:
• Avoid installing the speakers upside down.
• Leave some of the insulation between the speakers and the exterior wall.
• Refrain from setting the humidifier on high, especially when outside temperatures are below
freezing.
Deciding on speaker placement
How and where you use the speakers will also affect your procedure for installing them. Con-
sider the options below, then follow the instructions that apply to your choices:
• How you will use the speakers?
– for stereo sound at the front of a room or seating arrangement, or
– as home theater front speakers, or
– as surround sound speakers at the rear of your viewing area
•
What surface you will install in?
– a wall or ceiling
– if a wall, will it be an interior (abutting another room) or exterior (abutting the outside
surface) wall
– in finished or new construction
– if finished, is it plaster and lath or wallboard construction
8
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Preparation
Select the general wall area for one speaker
As you decide where you want each speaker grille, use the guidelines below:
CAUTION: Do not install near any heat sources, such as halogen lamps, registers, stoves, or
other apparatus (including amplifiers) that produce heat.
• The two speakers should be a minimum of 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.
• For in-wall speakers providing stereo at the front of the room or home theater surround
sound from the rear, install them so each speaker grille is 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) from the
floor for best performance.
• Neither speaker should be installed sideways in a wall; the enclosure should be either
above or below the speaker face.
• For in-wall home theater front speakers, install the pair horizontally aligned with the center
of the video screen (Figure 5).
5´
(1.5m)
Figure 5
Orienting wall speakers for
front home theater use
• For ceiling installation, pay attention to the direction of the speaker enclosure for best per-
formance for stereo (Figure 6a) or for home theater (Figure 6b).
Figure 6
Orienting ceiling speakers
for the best coverage (a) for
stereo or (b) for home
theater front and surround
(b)
(a)
View of ceiling from below
View of ceiling from below
• Height guidelines for in-wall speakers do not apply to ceiling installations.
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Preparation
• Each speaker enclosure extends into the wall or ceiling, as shown in the gray DO NOT CUT
area on the template (Figure 7), and below the grille. The speaker enclosure can be inserted
either up or down.
Note: In cold climates where a humidifier is used, avoid inserting the speaker upside-down
in an exterior wall to prevent problems with condensation.
Allowing enough room both above and below the hole you draw provides a fallback in case
the area below your pilot hole is not suitable for the speaker enclosure.
TAPE
HERE
TAPE
HERE
FOR CUTTING
Large white area
represents what to cut
out for the speaker face.
Figure 7
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for cutting. Do not cut through
surfaces that have hazards, such as electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing,
concealed behind them. If you are not sure, consult
before you proceed.
a
professional installer
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for cutting.
Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards, such as
electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing, concealed behind
professional installer
T
APE
HERE
E
P
E
A
R
E
H
8 1
/
"
(20.5 cm)
T
16
Translations below
Template for either
rectangular-faced (left)
or round-faced (right)
speakers
them. If you are not sure, consult
before you proceed.
a
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for cutting. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards, such as electrical
professional installer before you proceed.
wiring, conduits or plumbing, concealed behind them. If you are not sure, consult
a
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for
Translations below
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for
drilling. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as electrical wiring,
drilling. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as electrical wiring,
conduits or plumbing. If you are not sure, consult
professional installer before you proceed.
a
conduits or plumbing. If you are not sure, consult
professional installer before you proceed.
a
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for cutting. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards, such as electrical
wiring, conduits or plumbing, concealed behind them. If you are not sure, consult professional installer before you proceed.
a
WARNING: Make
sure the spot chosen
is safe for drilling. Do
not cut through
Pilot
Hole
5 1
/
"
(14 cm)
2
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for
drilling. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as electrical wiring,
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for
drilling. Do not cut through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as electrical wiring,
surfaces that have
hazards concealed
behind them, such
as electrical wiring,
conduits or
WARNING: Make sure the
spot chosen is safe for
conduits or plumbing. If you are not sure, consult
professional installer before you proceed.
a
conduits or plumbing. If you are not sure, consult
professional installer before you proceed.
a
drilling. Do not cut through
surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them,
such as electrical wiring,
conduits or plumbing. If you
plumbing. If you are
not sure, consult
a
professional installer
before you proceed.
are not sure, consult
a
On the template at right,
small circles outside the
white area indicate
additional holes needed
for the round-faced
speaker only.
professional installer before
you proceed.
WARNING: Make
WARNING: Make
Pilot
Hole
sure the spot chosen
is safe for drilling. Do
not cut through
sure the spot chosen
is safe for drilling. Do
not cut through
WARNING: Make sure the spot
chosen is safe for drilling. Do not cut
through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as
electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing.
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe
for drilling. Do not cut through surfaces that have
hazards concealed behind them, such as
electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing. If you
are not sure, consult
before you proceed.
surfaces that have
hazards concealed
behind them, such
as electrical wiring,
conduits or
surfaces that have
hazards concealed
behind them, such
as electrical wiring,
conduits or
If you are not sure, consult
a
a
professional installer
professional installer before you
proceed.
plumbing. If you are
plumbing. If you are
not sure, consult
a
not sure, consult
a
professional installer
before you proceed.
professional installer
before you proceed.
WARNING: Make sure the spot
chosen is safe for drilling. Do not cut
through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as
electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing.
WARNING: Make sure the spot
chosen is safe for drilling. Do not cut
through surfaces that have hazards
concealed behind them, such as
electrical wiring, conduits or plumbing.
DO NOT
DO NOT
English
&
Translations
TAPE
HERE
TAPE
HERE
If you are not sure, consult
a
If you are not sure, consult
a
professional installer before you
proceed.
professional installer before you
proceed.
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
141
/
"
(36.9 cm)
English
&
Translations
2
9" (22.9 cm)
TAPE
HERE
TAPE
HERE
DO NOT
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
NOT FOR CUTTING
Large gray area
DO NOT
DO NOT
represents space to
reserve behind the wall
for the speaker
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
enclosure.
DO NOT
DO NOT
TAPE
HERE
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
TAPE
HERE
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
DO NOT
CUT AROUND
GRAY AREA
On the template at right,
small gray tabs also
TAPE
HERE
TAPE
HERE
indicate where not to cut.
CAUTION: When installed, the speaker enclosure cannot be seen behind the wall or ceiling.
Do not attempt to nail, cut, or drill on that surface area. Puncturing the speaker enclosure with
a tool will seriously damage the speaker.
• All electrical wiring, vents, and plumbing pipes located inside the walls must be avoided
(Figure 8). Check with a trained professional if you need instructions on how to locate and
avoid them.
(a)
(b)
Figure 8
Cautions against unseen
danger, such as (a) electri-
cal wires or (b) plumbing
pipes, behind the wallboard
• Use of a stud finder can help ensure that the speaker hole is at least 43
stud or joist.
/
4" (12 cm) from a
• The selected location should be at the height you want for both speakers and where you
can maintain the minimum distance of 5 feet (1.5 m) between them.
Keeping in mind the guidelines given:
1. Decide where the first speaker will go.
2. Select the location for the second speaker.
3. Use the provided template for drawing both a pilot hole and the speaker-face outline.
10
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Preparation
Using speaker cord
Before you cut any cord, estimate how much will be needed for each speaker.
To do so, measure the distance from the receiver/amplifier to where each speaker will be
installed. Make some allowance if the cord must go around corners or through walls, and
leave at least 14 inches (36 cm) of cord to pull from the wall for making the connections easily.
Note: If you are installing ceiling speakers, allowing extra cord will give you the freedom to
stand on the floor while making the connections.
Be sure to use the proper gauge (thickness) of speaker cord, determined by the length of
each piece.
Wire recommendations
Based on a maximum frequency response deviation of ±0.5 dB
Gauge
Maximum Length
18 AWG (0.82 mm2)
20 ft (6 m)
16 AWG (1.3 mm2)
14 AWG (2.1 mm2)
30 ft (9 m)
50 ft (15 m)
CAUTION: Before running speaker cord through a wall or under a floor, check your local
building code requirements and safety regulations. If necessary, contact an A/V installer or
electrician for this information.
Prepare the cord
You will need a wire cutter and wire stripper for this work.
Speaker cord consists of two insulated wires. The insulation around one wire is marked
(striped, collared, or ribbed) to identify it as positive. The other wire is negative. It is important
to connect each wire to the proper terminal, positive to positive (+) and negative to
negative (–).
Note: It is sometimes difficult to distinguish wire markings. Inspect both wires carefully.
At the ends of each cord:
• Strip approximately 1
⁄
inch (13 mm) of insulation from both wires.
2
• Twist the bare end of each wire so loose strands will not touch across terminals.
Planning to run speaker cord
The techniques for running cord differ according to the condition of the walls you are working
with: new, unfinished construction or finished construction with the walls completed.
In either construction type, you need to mount an open-backed junction box in the wall near
the receiver or amplifier for cord coming out of the wall (Figure 9).
Figure 9
An open-backed junction
box that allows for cord
coming through the wall
near the receiver or
amplifier
11
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Preparation
You also need to observe safe and practical standards:
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for drilling. Do not drill through surfaces that
may have hazards, such as electrical wiring, conduits, or plumbing concealed behind them.
Follow all other safety precautions.
• Consult local building codes to inform yourself of the requirements in your area.
• Use a drill bit large enough for the cord you will pull through the holes.
• Use an auger bit, if possible, to make the work of drilling multiple holes less tiring.
• Do not drill through a load-bearing beam. Consult the building contractor if this is an issue.
• Keep the cord 3 to 4 feet (1 to 1.3 m) away from electrical cord, which can create a hum or
buzz in the speakers (Figure 10).
• To avoid nails, drill holes in the center of each stud or joist.
• Use a nail plate to protect the cord if your only option is to notch a stud or joist.
Figure 10
Studs
Techniques to use for run-
ning speaker cord through
studs or joists
Nail
plate
Speaker
cord
Wire staple
3-4′
(1-1.3 m)
Plumb line
for chalk
mark
Electrical
wire
• Line up holes as perfectly as possible to make pulling the cord through easier.
• Keep the cord taut enough so there are no sags.
• Do not pull the cord tight enough to create tension.
12
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Preparation
Before the wallboard goes up
There are some standard guidelines for working in unfinished construction.
• Begin this work after the studs and joists are in and the electrical wiring is completed.
• Snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or the bottom of the joists and move back-
ward as you drill, so you can keep the last hole drilled in your line of sight.
• Never run speaker cord and electrical cable through the same hole or into the same junc-
tion box.
• If a short section of the cord must run parallel to nearby electrical cable, keeping that run to
the absolute minimum will result in less interference.
• Use metal conduit or shielded speaker cord if the cord must run next to electrical cable for
10 feet (3 m) or more.
• Use cable clamps or large wire staples to fasten the cord to a joist or stud wherever the
cord runs more than 41
/
2 feet (1.4 m) from a hole.
• Use protective guardstrips, raceways, or conduits to protect the cord from being stepped
on or compressed in an attic or crawl space.
Where the walls are finished
Here are some suggestions for how to make this job easier.
Look for ways to conceal cord outside the walls:
• Along or behind baseboards
• Under carpets (using special flat speaker cord for under-the-rug speaker runs)
• Under doorjams (Figure 11).
Figure 11
Running cord behind base-
boards and a doorjam
Find the easiest path for cord that must run behind the wallboard:
• Choose interior walls, which are less likely to have insulation packed behind the wallboard.
• Use an attic or basement run where possible, so you have easy access and can see where
plumbing, electrical wires, and other impediments occur.
• In slab construction, consider using plenum-rated wire run through heating or air condition-
ing vents.
13
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Preparation
Getting started
Choose a path for the cord that avoids impediments to drill through. Use a stud finder to
identify inaccessible studs.
It is common to run cord from the speaker location in a wall or ceiling to the attic and through
the wooden top plate that runs horizontally across the top of the vertical studs. From the attic,
you can then run the cord to the spot above the junction box near the receiver or amplifier.
Drill through the top plate at that point and route the cord through the hole and down into the
wall (Figure 12).
Figure 12
Running the cord up
through the attic
Top plate
Open-backed
junction box
If you must route cord around a corner, you will need to cut out a rectangular piece of wall-
board on either side of the joist at that corner. Use each regular-shaped cutout as the patch
for the wall when you finish. By reaching through the cutout, you can notch the joist to make
room for the cord and use nail plates to cover the cord in each notch (Figure 13a).
To patch the wall, reposition the cutout pieces (Figure 13b) and use joint tape and joint com-
pound to hold them in place. When they are dry, sand and paint the area to match surround-
ing surfaces.
Figure 13
(a)
(b)
Running cord around a cor-
ner with nail plates for pro-
tection (a) and cutout
Cutout pieces
Ceiling
Nail plates
pieces as patches (b)
Ceiling
Wall
Wall
Wall
Wall
14
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Steps to Installing
Before you make any holes
Be sure you have read and understand the considerations provided in “Preparation” starting
on page 5, so you can proceed with confidence.
Installation is basically the same, whether you are using these speakers with a rectangular
grille or round grille and installing in a wall or ceiling. There are a few exceptions.
Wherever special instructions apply to ceiling or round-faced speaker installation, those
instructions will appear in a gray box, like this.
CAUTION: If you are unsure of your ability to complete this process, contact a professional
installer.
Allow 30 to 60 minutes to complete the steps that follow.
Drill a pilot hole for testing the wall space
Before you make a sizeable cut into the wallboard, check the space by probing behind
the wall or ceiling through a small pilot hole. Time spent now can help ensure a successful
installation.
Note: If you are working in an exterior wall where there is insulation, it may be difficult to
probe behind a pilot hole. You may prefer to eliminate this step and skip ahead to “Prepare
the wall for inserting the speaker” starting on page 21. Do this only if you can be sure the
insulation is malleable and that nothing else behind the wall will impede the installation.
WARNING: If you believe the insulation behind the wall may be composed of asbestos,
do not drill or cut into that wall. Find a different location for the speakers instead.
Using the template for this first step
You will need a sharp pencil for this step.
The template is designed to show where to drill two half-inch (13 mm) pilot holes first, before
you make an opening large enough for the entire speaker. This allows you to probe behind the
wall to make sure your chosen location is spacious enough and there are no unseen materials
blocking the installation.
Notice the dotted lines extending at an angle from the pilot hole to the bottom corners of
the DO NOT CUT area on the template. Use them as a guideline for testing the area below the
pilot hole to make sure it is spacious enough behind the hole for the length and width of the
speaker enclosure.
To position the template
1. Select a spot on the wall or ceiling where you want the center of the speaker grille.
For ceiling installations, carefully consider how the position of the speaker enclosure
behind the wallboard affects the orientation of the Bose® logo on the speaker face. To main-
tain a consistent logo orientation, you can remove and rotate the speaker frame as needed
before inserting the speaker into the ceiling hole. See Figure 21 on page 20.
Tip: Remember to allow enough space for the speaker enclosure both above and below the
pilot hole. You may need that second option if you find an impediment in the space below the
hole. This does not apply to exterior walls in cold climate regions, where upside-down
speaker installation is not recommended.
15
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Steps to Installing
2. Center the pilot-hole circles on the selected spot as you press the template to the wall.
3. Use a pencil to trace around the inside of the circles (Figure 14).
Round-faced speakers require additional clearance holes on either side of the speaker
hole. Draw those circles as well as the pilot hole circles now. However, you may prefer to
drill those holes only after you have successfully explored behind the pilot hole and know
there are no impediments to installing the speaker there.
4. Remove the template.
Figure 14
Preparing to cut a pilot hole
At least 71
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16
AM267565_01_V.pdf May 13, 2003
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Steps to Installing
Drilling the pilot hole
You will need a half-inch spade bit and power drill, or a special rotary cutting tool for this
step.
Using the proper equipment and protection is important.
WARNING: Use eye protection and be sure to observe all safety precautions while using the
drill or cutting tool (Figure 15).
Figure 15
Caution against drilling
without eye protection
WARNING: Make sure the spot chosen is safe for cutting. Do not cut through surfaces that
may have hazards such as electrical wiring, conduits, or plumbing concealed behind them.
Follow all other safety precautions.
1. Center the tip of the drill bit in the top circle you have drawn).
2. Drill completely through the wallboard to create a hole that you can probe behind.
Note: If you encounter insulation in the wall, it will be difficult, if not impossible, to probe
behind the pilot hole. If you are certain that the location you have chosen is free of hazards
and impediments, you may choose to cut the hole for the speaker anyway, remove some of
the malleable insulation, and proceed from there. Refer to “Prepare the wall for inserting the
speaker” starting on page 21.
3. Drill the second hole just below the first one (Figure 16). This elongates the hole enough
to allow for testing the space for the length of the speaker enclosure.
Figure 16
Using a spade bit with the
power drill to create the
pilot hole
17
AM267565_01_V.pdf May 13, 2003
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Steps to Installing
Testing the space behind the hole
You need a tape measure and a sturdy wire (such as a straightened coat hanger)
22 inches (55.9 cm) in length for this step.
1. Bend the wire as shown in Figure 17.
Figure 17
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3 inches (7.6 cm)
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43
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extra length at that end.
WARNING: If there is a possibility of electrical wiring in the space behind the wallboard, wrap
the wire with electrical tape to prevent electric shock.
1
2. Make a mark 4
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to-back depth of the hole.
3. Use the bent wire to test for enough depth, front-to-back:
Insert the short end of the wire into the hole and straight back (Figure 18). Probe to make
sure nothing impedes inserting this end to a depth of 41
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8 inches (10.5 cm). This indicates
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dimension.
Figure 18
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/
• If the wire goes in without a problem, proceed to step 4, below.
• If you cannot insert the wire to the 41
hole elsewhere. Then repeat step 3.
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8-inch (10.5 cm) mark, you need to drill a new pilot
4. Use the wire again to test the width, side-to-side:
With the short end still in the hole, reposition it (as shown in Figure 19) and rotate it 360˚
around the hole. This indicates if the wall space is wide enough on each side of the hole
for the side-to-side dimension of the speaker.
18
AM267565_01_V.pdf May 13, 2003
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Steps to Installing
Figure 19
Checking the space for the
width of the speaker
360˚
• If the wire goes around the 360˚ arc without a problem, proceed to step 5 below.
Round-faced speakers require an additional 2 inches of clearance above the speaker.
• If you cannot rotate the wire all the way around up to the first bend, you need to drill a
new pilot hole elsewhere. Then repeat the preceding steps 3 and 4.
Now remove the wire.
5. Use the long end of the wire to check for enough length below the hole:
Holding the short end of the wire, insert the long end into the wall or ceiling and straight
down from the hole (Figure 20a).
Tip: You may want to use the template for this step, as shown in Figure 20b.
With the long end of the wire still in the hole, sweep it from side to side in a curve as
shown on the template. This indicates if the wall or ceiling space is long enough and
wide enough at the far end.
Tip: When testing for length, move the wire near the wall or ceiling, then farther back from it.
(a)
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• If the wire goes in and sweeps from side to side at the far end without a problem, pro-
ceed to the next major step: “Prepare the wall for inserting the speaker” starting on
page 21.
• If you find an impediment below the pilot hole, and you are working in an interior wall,
reinsert the wire upward. If there are no impediments above the pilot hole, you can
install the speaker upside-down. If you are working in an exterior wall, installing the
speaker upside-down is not recommended. In this case, if you find an impediment you
need to drill a new pilot hole elsewhere. Then repeat the preceding steps 3, 4, and 5.
19
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Steps to Installing
Note: To position the logo right-side-up if you insert the speaker upside-down, remove the
outer frame from the face of the speaker, rotate it 180˚, then reattach the frame. There are four
speaker frame screws, labeled GRILLE, that hold the frame in place. They should not be con-
fused with the dogleg clamp screws that are labeled WALL (Figure 21). Those screws hold
the dogleg clamps on the frame.
Figure 21
Removing the speaker
frame to reorient it as
needed
Logo
Logo
• If you cannot insert the entire length of the wire straight up in an interior wall, and
sweep it from side to side as shown on the template, you need to drill a new pilot hole
elsewhere. Then repeat the preceding steps 3, 4, and 5.
Repairing a pilot hole
If you need to patch the pilot hole, you can fill it with spackle. You may need to let the spackle
dry, then add more until the hole is slightly overfilled. When it is thoroughly dry, sand the area
to bring it back flush with the wall.
Passing the pilot hole test
If you have successfully determined that this location will work for one speaker, test the wall
or ceiling for the second speaker before making any larger holes. Refer to “Drill a pilot hole for
testing the wall space” starting on page 15 and repeat those steps.
If the location for the first speaker is fine, but the second is not, you may want to relocate
both speakers.
Round-faced speakers require additional clearance holes on either side of the main
speaker hole. If you have marked but have not drilled those holes yet, do so when it is clear
you will be installing a speaker in that spot.
20
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Steps to Installing
Prepare the wall for inserting the speaker
Use care in the steps that follow to ensure satisfaction with the end result.
CAUTION: Now is a good time to reconsider your comfort level with this job. If you have
doubts about cutting into or running cord behind the wall, it’s best to stop here. Then you can
contact a professional installer, describe the job, and request a cost estimate before engag-
ing the installer’s services.
WARNING: If you believe insulation in a wall may contain asbestos, do not cut into the wall.
Find a different location for installing the speakers instead.
Using the template a second time
You need a carpenter’s level, a sharp pencil, and optional tape with the template to com-
plete this step.
1. Position the template carefully over the pilot hole where you want to install one speaker.
For the round-faced speaker, you may want to bend the small tabs on either side of the
main cutout area behind it before positioning the template on the wall or ceiling.
2. Make sure the template is level (Figure 22).
Positioning the round-faced speaker on a ceiling does not require using a level.
Figure 22
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3. Tape or hold the template firmly in place as you trace around the sides and upper edge of
the WHITE CUT-OUT AREA portion.
4. Make a dotted line, using the slotted holes along the bottom of the WHITE CUT-OUT
AREA portion, for the bottom edge of the hole.
5. Remove the template.
21
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Steps to Installing
Tip: If necessary, use tape to hold the template temporarily in place (see TAPE HERE on the
template). Then run your pencil along the entire template edge, except where there is tape.
For ceiling installation, notice the orientation of the Bose® logo on the speaker frame.
Make sure it will be oriented as you want it when you position the speaker in the hole you
cut. If you need the logo to face in the opposite direction, you can do so by removing the
speaker frame, rotating it 180˚ and reattaching it to the speaker. Refer to Figure 21 on page
20.
Cutting the speaker hole
You need a small saw or specialized cutting tool (for example, a keyhole or drywall saw)
for this step of the installation.
Be sure to use the proper equipment and follow all safety precautions as you cut through the
wallboard.
WARNING: Use eye protection (Figure 23) and be sure to observe all safety precautions
while using the saw or cutting tool.
Figure 23
Caution against drilling
without eye protection
CAUTION: Use care in handling tools to avoid damage to the surrounding wall area.
Insert the blade into the pilot hole and cut down and at an angle until you reach one pencil
line. Or, before you begin cutting, you may prefer to drill holes inside each corner of the
rectangular outline you have drawn, to simplify the job.
Note: Making the corners perfectly square is not important.
Tip: While it is important to cut carefully, remember that the speaker frame overlaps the
wallboard by 1
/
4-inch (0.6 cm) when the speaker is in place. Minor cutting inaccuracies will be
hidden behind that frame.
22
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Steps to Installing
6. Cut around three of the four sides of the outline you drew, not all the way around
(Figure 24a).
WARNING: Keep fingers away from the cutting blade.
7. Hook your finger into the pilot hole and then make the final cut (Figure 24b).
8. Using your finger, pull out the piece of wallboard you have just cut.
Figure 24
(a)
Cutting along the outline
(a), and using a finger to
hold the cutout piece (b)
(b)
If you encounter insulation behind the wall
You can expect to find insulation in an exterior wall and sometimes it appears in an interior
wall as well. If the insulation found there is malleable, you can cut it and remove some of it to
make room for the speaker. Other types of insulation will be difficult or possibly dangerous to
handle.
CAUTION: Beware of hidden nails when reaching into the wall to remove insulation.
CAUTION: Wear gloves and protection for your mouth, nose, and eyes before handling
insulation that contains fiberglass.
Cut some insulation away from both above and below the speaker hole.
Insert and wire the speaker
You need a Phillips-head screwdriver and optional tape to complete this step.
If your wall is not pre-wired, refer to “Planning to run speaker cord” starting on page 11. When
wire is within reach of the hole you have cut, follow the procedure below:
1. From inside the newly cut speaker hole, locate and pull out 14 inches (36 cm) or more of
the pre-wired speaker cord (Figure 25).
23
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Steps to Installing
Figure 25
At least14 inches
(36 cm) of wire
Pulling the wire up and out,
to the left
2. Use tape or the assistance of another person to temporarily affix the loose end of
the wire above and to the left of the hole (Figure 26). This keeps the wire out of the
way until you have the speaker partially inserted in the wall and are ready to make the
connections.
Figure 26
Using tape to secure the
wire
Insert the speaker into the opening
Before you follow the steps below, check to be sure none of the dogleg clamps (two on each
side) are protruding from behind the frame of the speaker. If so, press them back behind the
frame so the speaker will fit into the hole.
Tip: Loosening the screw terminals on the upper left side of the speaker before inserting the
speaker into the hole may save you effort in making the connections.
Note: If you must insert the speaker upside-down due to a lack of space below the hole, you
need to reorient the logo before inserting it into the hole. If you have not done so yet, remove
the outer frame from the face of the speaker, rotate it 180˚, then reattach the frame. Refer to
Figure 21 on page 20.
In ceiling installations, pay attention to the orientation of the Bose® logo on the speaker
frame. Make sure it will be oriented as you want it when you position the speaker in the
speaker hole. If the logo should face in the opposite direction, change that before you insert
the speaker into the hole. Do so by removing the speaker frame, rotating it 180˚, and reat-
taching it to the speaker. Refer to Figure 21 on page 20.
Also you may notice a draft in the space above the ceiling. To stop the draft, you can wrap
some malleable insulation around the speaker enclosure before inserting it into the wall.
24
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Steps to Installing
1. Use both hands to support the speaker and angle it slightly, so it is diagonal to the hole.
This allows clearance for the wall stops.
2. Insert the bottom of the enclosure through the hole and down part of the way – or up,
depending on your clearance issues (Figure 27).
Dogleg clamps
Figure 27
Wall stop
Dogleg clamps
Partially inserting the
rectangular-faced or round-
faced speaker
Wall stop
3. Leave the speaker in this partially inserted position, resting on the wall stops that prevent
it from falling out (Figure 28). This allows ready access to the connection terminals on the
upper left-hand side of the speaker.
For ceiling installations, you may feel more secure holding the speaker while making the
connections.
Figure 28
Speaker held in place by
wall stops
Wall stop
25
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Steps to Installing
Make the speaker connections
You need a Phillips-head screwdriver for this step.
Tip: Pay attention to maintaining the proper polarity (+ to + and – to –) with these connec-
tions. An error here will adversely affect speaker performance. Also be sure to tighten each
screw securely, but not enough to cause undesirable compression of the wire.
1. If you have not done so earlier, loosen the screws on both terminals.
2. Insert the end of the marked wire (+) into the positive (+) terminal and tighten the screw
(Figure 29).
3. Insert the end of the unmarked wire (–) into the negative (–) terminal and tighten the
screw.
CAUTION: Do not allow exposed wires to brush against each other, which could damage
your components. Trim excess wire and reinsert as necessary.
4. Check for the consistent polarity (+ to + and – to –) of these connections at both the
receiver/amplifier and the speaker.
Figure 29
Attaching wires to the
terminals
+
Test the speaker now
With the connections still within reach, now is a good time to test the speaker to make sure it
functions properly before you secure it in the wall.
It may be preferable to begin installing the second speaker now, before you test either one.
When you get the second speaker connected, you can test both speakers, and make sure
they are both functioning fine before proceeding with the installation steps for each one.
CAUTION: If you are testing the first speaker before the other one is connected, make
sure the wire to that first speaker is the only one connected to the receiver/amplifier. This
will avoid any risk of unattached speaker wires making contact, which can damage the
receiver/amplifier.
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Steps to Installing
To test the speaker:
1. Turn on the receiver/amplifier and play a piece of music that is familiar to you.
2. Listen for clarity and accuracy of the performance from one speaker.
• If you hear a problem, refer to “Troubleshooting” starting on page 32.
• If the performance sounds fine, test the other speaker, or continue with the installation
steps for this speaker.
When the connections are completed, push any excess wire into the hole behind the speaker
(Figure 30).
Figure 30
Pushing excess wire behind
the speaker
3. Make sure the frame of the speaker is firmly screwed onto the face. The frame prevents
the speaker from slipping all the way into the hole. Refer to Figure 23 on page 22 if you
need to reverse the frame to properly orient the Bose logo on the speaker face.
4. Now push the speaker into the hole until the face is straight and flush with the wall
(Figure 31).
Figure 31
Positioning the speaker all
the way in the hole
Or
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Steps to Installing
Secure the speaker to the wall
CAUTION: If you use a screw gun to tighten any screws, first select the gun’s lowest torque
setting (do not exceed 2-4 inch-pounds or 0.2-0.5 N-m of torque). If the screw does not seat
properly, finish installing the screw at the next highest torque setting, or by hand.
When the speaker is positioned inside the hole with the face straight and flat against the wall,
you are ready to tighten the dogleg clamp screws, labeled WALL, along the sides of the
frame. These screws are not to be confused with the screws in each corner of the frame,
which hold the frame on the speaker face. Dogleg clamps exert pressure from inside to hold
the speaker firmly against the wall.
CAUTION: Although they should be thoroughly screwed down, be sure not to overtighten
these screws. Too much compression can crush the wallboard, making it crumble. This
creates uneven surface support and can leave gaps between the speaker face and the wall.
1. Slightly tighten the four dogleg clamp screws (Figure 32) until each one begins to grip.
This is caused by the clamps that swing out and press against the back of the wallboard.
Figure 32
Doglegclamp screws
Dogleg clamps
Tightening the dogleg
clamp screws
G
R
ILL
E
W
A
L
L
WA
LL
G
R
ILLE
2. With your fingers grasping the frame of the speaker, rock it slightly back and forth into
position. Check for even seating of the face before you tighten the screws any further,
and adjust the speaker if it needs to be straightened.
3. When the speaker is straight, tighten each screw.
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Steps to Installing
4. Line up the curved edge of the grille with the curve over the Bose® logo and press that
edge into the speaker frame first (Figure 33).
5. Press the top of the grille firmly into place until you feel some resistance. When the grille
lines up flush with the frame of the speaker, it is seated properly.
Figure 33
Snapping the grille into
place
If the speaker looks crooked
When you step back from the wall, you may notice that the speaker is not straight. If so, it is
easy to adjust the speaker slightly now:
1. Remove the grille by inserting a thin-bladed tool between the speaker frame and the grille
and carefully prying it out.
2. Slightly loosen each of the four dogleg clamp screws, labeled WALL.
3. Press on the sides of the speaker frame to shift it up or down into the proper position.
4. Stand back to make sure it is straight. Repeat step 3 if it is not.
5. Tighten all four dogleg clamp screws.
6. Reattach the grille to the front of the speaker.
When the grille is finally in place
If there are additional speakers to install, repeat the “Steps to Installing,” beginning with “Drill
a pilot hole” on page 17.
If this is your final speaker, congratulations! Turn on the music while you admire your work...
and enjoy the rewards.
Choosing to paint the speakers
The grille and frame of your Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers can be painted before or after the
speaker is installed. This is optional, however, and Bose cannot be responsible for the quality
of adhesion or finish of non-factory applied paints.
There are different techniques for painting the grille and painting the frame. Be sure to use
paint that is appropriate to the technique you choose.
WARNING: Follow all recommended safety procedures for the chemicals involved. This
includes the proper use of eye protection, ventilation systems, respirators or filter masks, and
fire safety equipment if flammable solvents are used.
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Steps to Installing
Painting the grille
It is important to prevent paint from clogging the grille perforations, which can adversely
affect performance. You can use a dry brush technique or choose to spray paint the grille. Do
not use a paint roller, however.
Regardless of the technique you choose:
• Remove the grille from the speaker if it has been installed.
• Before you begin to paint, clean the grille to remove possible contaminants. Even finger-
prints can prevent uniform coverage.
• Check to be sure the paint is distributed evenly and covers the grille thoroughly. If not, you
may need to paint the inside of the grille to fix the problem.
• When it is dry, protect the painted grille with clean cloth or tissue paper until you attach it to
the speaker.
Using a dry brush technique
Unthinned latex paint is appropriate for this method. Be sure to put down enough paper to
cover your work area and allow for repeatedly blotting the brush.
1. Dip the tip of a clean, dry brush in the paint.
2. Stroke across the paper to reduce the amount of paint on the brush. When you can see
individual bristle marks, the brush is ready to use on the grille.
3. Stroke lightly back and forth on the front of the grille, in a horizontal direction, until you
need more paint.
Tip: If paint clogs any of the grille perforations, try angling your stroke to unclog it, or blow
gently on the clog.
4. Repeat the above steps until the outside of the grille is completely covered.
5. Turn the grille 180˚ and repaint the entire surface using back-and-forth strokes again.
Using a spray technique
Latex or oil-based architectural paint requires thinning for use with a siphon-feed spray gun
set for 30 psi (2.1 bar) and for application in a 3- to 5-inch (7.6-12.7 cm) fan pattern. The thin-
ning formula depends on the type of paint you are using.
• Thin vinyl acrylic latex paint as follows:
To 6 parts of paint, add 3 parts of water and mix thoroughly. Add 1 part of denatured ethyl
alcohol (which breaks down paint particles so they do not clog the grille) and mix again.
• For use of architectural or automotive paints:
This type of paint should be used by a professional with the right equipment and technique.
This paint must also be thinned, using a solvent.
• For use of lacquer or enamel spray paint:
This comes in an aerosol can and needs no further thinning.
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Steps to Installing
Steps for spray painting:
1. To prevent dirt or dried paint particles from blowing back into the grille perforations,
suspend the grille or place it on a wire screen.
2. Apply the paint to the grille surface at a 45˚ angle. Then rotate the grille by 180˚ and
repaint it at 45˚.
Figure 34
Angling and turning used to
apply the paint twice
45˚
45˚
180˚
Tip: Piercing a perforation with a sharp implement to remove a clog can cosmetically
damage the grille and is not recommended. If paint clogs any of the grille perforations, blow
gently in that area to unclog it. If that does not work, immediately wash the grille with the
appropriate solvent. Make sure the grille is thoroughly dry before repainting.
The paint may feel dry in a few minutes. However, if alcohol has been added, it may take
several days to fully cure.
Painting the frame
You can use either latex or oil-based paints, which adhere to the speaker frame. However,
both can be easily scratched through careless handling.
Before you begin, protect the speaker cones by inserting the paint shield that came in the
carton. Then you can use the same conventional spray or roller equipment used to paint the
wall or ceiling.
Be careful so the paint does not puddle or run. You may want to use a brush for spreading
paint where needed.
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Reference
Troubleshooting
Neither speaker
plays
•
Check the settings on your receiver/amplifier. Refer to the owner’s guide that came with it for
instruction on settings.
•
If your Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers are the second pair of speakers connected to your
receiver/amplifier, make sure the connections have been made to the “B” terminals and that
the “B” speakers are selected to play.
The bass or treble
is weak
•
•
Check the tonal balance setting on your receiver/amplifier.
Check for consistent polarity of the connections (+ to + and – to –) to the receiver/amplifier and
to the speaker.
Review “Make the speaker connections” on page 26.
Only one speaker
plays
•
•
Check the balance control on your receiver/amplifier and make sure it is centered.
Check the wires connected to the speaker that does not play. Make sure the wires are in good
condition and are firmly connected. Review “Make the speaker connections” on page 26.
Only one speaker
still plays
•
•
Trace the cord from the speaker in question to the receiver/amplifier. Disconnect the cord from
the receiver/amplifier channel and reconnect it to a different receiver/amplifier channel.
– If the performance is now fine, the problem lies in the original receiver/amplifier channel, the
component source of the music, or the connections between the receiver/amplifier and the
source. Check all of those to make sure they are performing properly. Reconnect the speaker
to the correct channel of a functioning receiver/amplifier.
– If the problem persists, its source is either the speaker wire or the speaker in question. Follow
the next instruction.
Disconnect the cord from the speaker in question and reconnect it to the second speaker.
– If the performance is now fine, the problem lies in the original speaker. Contact your autho-
rized Bose® dealer, who will arrange for service. Or, to contact Bose directly, refer to the
address list included in the carton.
– If the problem persists, its source is the speaker wires. Follow the next instruction.
•
•
Before you take steps to replace and re-run the speaker wire, recheck all of the connections.
Then repeat the procedure for pinning down the problem source, above.
Static or noise from
one speaker
Check the connections at the speaker and at the receiver/amplifier. Make sure the wires are in
good condition, are firmly connected, and no wires are touching across terminals. Also check
the connections from the receiver/amplifier to the component source of the music.
– If the problem persists, follow the troubleshooting instructions for “Only one speaker still
plays,” above.
Customer service
For additional help in solving problems, contact your Bose dealer. Or, to contact Bose Customer Service, refer to the
address list included in the carton.
Warranty period
Bose Virtually Invisible® 191 speakers are covered by a limited 5-year transferable warranty. Details of coverage are on the
warranty card that came with your speakers. Please fill out the information section, detach, and mail it to Bose.
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Reference
Accessories
• Drop Ceiling Kit for two speakers – PC031355
Protects the tile from bearing the weight of the speakers. Instructions included.
• Rough-in Kit for two speakers – PC031353
Reserves a place for the speakers after the studs are in place and before the wallboard is added, and indicates where
the wallboard hole should be made. Instructions included.
For further information or to order accessories, contact your Bose® dealer. Or, to call Bose directly, refer to the address list
included in the carton.
Technical information
Features
• Virtually Invisible® and Articulated Array® speaker design
• Proprietary enclosure technology
• Stereo Everywhere® speaker performance
• Paintable grille
• Syncom® computer tested
Compatibility
• Compatible with amplifiers or receivers rated 10-100W per channel/rated 4 to 8 ohms
• 50W IEC continuous power handling; rated 6 ohms
Driver complement
• Two (2) 21
/
2" (6.4 cm) full-range drivers per speaker
Enclosure
• Ported and molded high-impact polystyrene
• White frame and grille
Dimensions
• Each speaker:
133
/
4"H x 77
/
8"W x 37
/
8"D (34.9 cm H x 19.9 cm W x 9.8 cm D)
• Wall or ceiling surface area required for each:
Rectangular-faced speaker – 83
/
4"W x 6"H (20.5 cm x 14 cm)
Round-faced speaker – 101
Weight
• 4.5 lb (2.0 kg) each
/
4" diameter (26 cm)
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©2003 Bose Corporation, The Mountain
Framingham, MA 01701-9168 USA
267565 AM Rev. 00 JN30333
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