Bernina Sewing Machine Sergers User Manual

Mastering

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BERNINA^®Sergers

BERNINA^®

Mastering Your

BERNINA^®

Serger

Owner’s Workbook

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Class 1

General Information

Class Overview

Machine Overview

Parts of the serger

Setting up the serger

Basic Serging Samples

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Adjusting Tensions - Loopers

Adjusting Tensions - Needles

Stitch Length Adjustment

Cutting Width Adjustment

Differential Feed - Stretch

Differential Feed - Pucker

Differential Feed - Gathering & Easing

Serger Accessories

Tweezers

Lower Looper Threader (700D only)

Needle Threader

(optional for 700D & 800DL)

Brush/Needle Insertion Tool

Spool Caps

10 Securing Serged Seams

11 Serging a Tubular Project

Spool Cones

Thread Nets

Care & Cleaning

Thread

Removing Lint from Inside Serger

Oiling

Good quality vs. poor quality

Construction/All-Purpose Thread

Decorative Thread

Replacing the Cutting Knives

Yearly “Tune Up”

by Authorized BERNINA^®technician

Needles

Types of Needles

Sizes of Needles

Parts of Needles

Matching Needle & Thread

Threading for Overlock Serging

The Threading Path

This class is formatted for owners of

the following models of BERNINA^®

overlock machines:

Threading Order

First – Upper Looper (Blue)

Second – Lower Looper (Red)

Third – Right Needle (Green)

Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)

Test Serging

• 700 D

• 800 DL

• 1100D

• 1100DA

• 1200DA

• 1300DC

• 2500DCET

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Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA^®serger!

This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at

your BERNINA^®dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with

the features of your new BERNINA^®overlock machine. In addition, you will learn about

needles, threads, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of

serging and assist you in achieving success in all of your serging endeavors.

Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA^®overlock machine,

attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protec-

tors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future

as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.

BERNINA^®of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing

and overlock machines, but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing

Owners Classes, your local BERNINA^®dealer stocks BERNINA^®books and magazines, such

as Feetures, Serger Technique Reference Guide, and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA^®

of America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering free projects, basic sewing

and serging information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with

creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers,

no matter which machines are their favorites.

My BERNINA^®overlock machine

model is: __________________

Learn to use your BERNINA^®serger to

its full extent and enjoy being creative

with fabric and thread!

I purchased it on: ____________

at ________________________

__________________________

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Presser Feet & Accessories

BERNINA^®Presser Feet:

• are precision engineered for specific functions

• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production

with professional looking results

• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.)

• are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as the Serging

Technique Reference Guide, Feetures, and the BERNINA^®website at www.berninausa.com

Additional Presser Feet

& Accessories Available for

BERNINA^®Sergers:

• Blindhem Foot

• Cording Foot

• Elasticator

• Gathering Attachment

• Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

• Standard Foot with Tape Guide

• Attachment Base

• Deco Thread Guide

• Looper/Needle Threader

• Left Seam Guide

• Right Seam Guide

• Upper Looper Converter

• Waste Collector

• Serger Technique Reference Book

• Serging Made Easy!

• Feet-ures Volume 2 (Unit M)

• Sophie Serges for Kids

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Needles

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many

“mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent,

damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all

needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When select-

ing the correct needle for any serging project, three things must be

considered:

Notes

Needle system – 130/705H

Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage

Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier ones

If the needle is:

Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop

to be picked up by the looper

Bent – thread loop forms too far away from looper, which can’t

enter loop to form stitch

Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make

a stitch

Need To Know

• Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger; larger

needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.

• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle

is the most inexpensive part in your serger but is one of the most

crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running

well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for

your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated to glide through fabric easily.

• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the

needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger

groove should be used.

• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible,

with the flat side to the back.

Needle Size Conversion

European vs. Domestic

Regardless of the system, the greater

the number, the larger the diameter

of the needle. Never use a needle

larger than size 90/14 in your serger!

90 = 14

100 = 16

110 = 18

120 = 19

60 = 8

70 = 10

75 = 11

80 = 12

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Needle Chart

Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger;

larger needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.

70-90

Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey;

80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.

Ball Point

Stretch

A stretch needle has a more rounded point and

a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent

skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes

used on Ultrasuede^®, vinyl, and plastic.

A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint

needle; can be used on both wovens and knits.

60 – very fine batiste

60-90

Universal

Jeans

70 – broadcloth

80 – trigger and gabardine

90 – denim and twill

Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to

flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better

for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean

stitch is desired.

70-90

60-90

A sharp point with a thin shaft. 60-90 corresponds

to the weight of the fabric; as the fabric gets heavier

or denser, the number is higher. Specially designed

for microfiber fabrics.

Microtex

Sharp

(Schmetz)

The thin, tapered point of this needle causes less

(75 & 90) damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.

assort’d

Microfiber

(Lammertz)

Quilting

A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove.

Use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles

heavy threads.

80-90

75-90

Topstitch

Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has

a coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery

thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic

threads. Two threads may be used through the eye

of an 80 or 90 needle.

Embroidery

(Schmetz)

Metafil (Lammertz)

Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only.

80-90

Leather

Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.

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Thread

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any

machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately

37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor

quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams,

frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, an

overlock machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size

needle, and properly adjusted settings.

Notes

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread

must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a

single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long

while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.

Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during

stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality

threads are more likely to roll.

Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into

a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause

skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in

seams.

Right twist – most American

threads are twisted to the right,

causing some rolling. This gives

average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and

imported threads are twisted to

the left, giving better than average

stitch quality. Left twist resists

rolling and makes a larger loop for

the hook point to enter, reducing

skipped stitches.

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Thread

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and mar-

keting of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.

Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and

Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while

holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards

you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Notes

Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.

Some commonly used threads:

• Polyester Overlock Thread – such as Mettler Metrocor

Thinner than regular sewing thread, eliminating bulk in serger

stitch formations. An excellent all-purpose serger thread.

• Texturized Nylon Thread – such as YLI Woolly Nylon

and Mettler Metroflock. A very elastic thread with excellent

coverage; perfect for rolled edges and knit seams. Available

in solid and variegated colors, and metallics.

• Polyester Topstitching Thread – such as YLI Jeans Stitch

& Mettler Cordonnet – this heavy thread is used for decorative

stitching, such as flatlocked seams and overcast edges. Also

nice for cover and chain stitching. Available in solid and

variegated colors.

• Rayon Decorative Threads – such as YLI Pearl Crown Rayon

& YLI Designer 6 – shiny threads for decorative applications.

Pearl Crown Rayon is twisted, while Designer 6 is untwisted.

Available in solid and variegated colors.

• Metallic Decorative Threads – such as YLI Candlelight –

adds a bit of glitz to seams and edgings.

• Decorative Sewing Threads – sewing machine threads can

also be used in the serger, and are particularly effective when

several are used together as one thread.

Storage of Thread

Thread does wear out and should be stored with care to keep it

usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to

swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages.

Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with

doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dust-free.

Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing

box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a

seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold

together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.

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Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to

match the color-coded threading path on the serger.

Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated.

Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb

and slide the fabric under the presser foot. Release the tip of the

presser foot and begin serging.

Serge to the end of the fabric. Continue stitching off the fabric until you

have a 3”- 4” thread chain. Cut thread chain.

Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced

stitch graphic on page__ of your Owner's manual.

Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__

of the Owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and

correcting any stitch irregularities.

Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of

stitching.

Trim and mount the sample.

Record your serger’s “personal” tension settings

for a balanced overlock in the chart below:

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper

Lower Looper

Left Needle

Right Needle

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Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Adjusting Tensions

Fabric .................................................. 6 pieces firm fabric, each 3” x 6”

........................................................ 1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Lower Looper - Increased Tension

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors

to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.

Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.

Locate the thread tension levers on the front of the serger. From left

to right, these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right Needle,

Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.

Adjust the lower looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the

tension on the looper thread.

Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the

fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of

the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the

stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.

Trim, label, and mount the sample.

Lower Looper - Decreased Tension

Change the lower looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the

tension on the looper thread.

Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of

the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.

The looper threads are very loose.

Label, trim, and mount the sample. Return the thread tension levers

to normal.

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Adjusting Tensions Samples

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Adjusting Tensions, continued

Upper Looper - Increased Tension

Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the

tension on the looper thread.

Notes

Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge

of the fabric. The lower looper thread is pulled tightly to the front

of the stitch.

Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Upper Looper - Decreased Tension

Change the upper looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the

tension on the looper thread.

Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge

of the fabric. The upper looper thread is visible on the back of the

fabric. The looper threads are very loose.

Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Return the thread tension levers to normal.

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Adjusting Tensions Samples

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Adjusting Tensions, continued

Right Needle - Decreased Tension

Adjust the right needle thread tension lever to 2 (down) to decrease

the tension on the needle thread.

Notes

Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the

back of the fabric.

Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Left Needle - Decreased Tension

Adjust the left needle thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension

on the needle thread.

Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the back

of the fabric.

Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Both Needles - Increased Tension

Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension levers to 7 to

increase the tension on the needle threads.

Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.

Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

Examine the sample. The lower looper thread is pulled to the front

of the sample and the stitch is puckering the fabric.

Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Return both needle thread tension levers to normal.

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Adjusting Tensions Samples

increased left & right needle tensions

decreased right needle tension

decreased left needle tension

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Stitch Length Adjustment

Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along

the folded edge.

Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the

settings as needed. Set the cutting width and the differential at their

normal settings.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. Serge to the first mark along the

folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.

Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.

Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.

Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.

Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.

Trim and mount the sample.

Return stitch length to its normal setting, 2.5mm.

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Stitch Length Adjustment Sample

4mm

3mm

2mm

1mm

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Cutting Width Adjustment

Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

Divide and mark the fabric into three equal sections along the folded

edge.

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions

for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5).

Rotate the upper knife up. Adjust cutting width to 3. Rotate the upper

knife down into cutting position.

Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the knife edge

is on the mark.

Adjust cutting width to 2mm and serge to the second mark.

Adjust the cutting width to 1mm and serge to the end of the fabric.

Mark the cutting width settings on the sample.

Rotate the upper knife up. Return the cutting width to its normal setting,

2mm. Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.

Compare the cutting width sample to the balanced 4-thread sample

to see how cutting width affects the balance of the overlock stitch.

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Cutting Width Adjustment Sample

3mm

2mm

1mm

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Differential Feed:

Fabrics that Stretch

Fabric ................................... 3 pieces of ribbing, each 5” wide x 2” long

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions

for a balanced overlock stitch. Set the cutting width as needed and set

the stitch length to 2.5mm.

With differential set at N, serge two of the ribbing pieces together along

one 5” edge. If the fabric is stretchy enough you will have a wavy edge.

Adjust the differential to 2.0.

Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other

side of the piece, trimming slightly. With differential at a higher setting,

the wavy edge should be eliminated.

Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.

Compare the seams to see how the differential settings can affect

stretching.

Trim and mount the sample.

Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).

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Differential Feed: Fabrics that Stretch Sample

2.0

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Differential Feed:

Fabrics that Pucker

Fabric .................................................................. 1 piece batiste, 3” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune tensions

for a balanced overlock stitch. Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.

With differential set at N, serge on one 6” edge. If fabric is lightweight

enough you will have a puckered edge.

Adjust the differential to 0.7.

Serge along the other edge, trimming slightly. With a low differential

setting, the puckered edge should be eliminated.

Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.

Trim and mount the sample.

Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).

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Differential Feed: Fabrics that Pucker Sample

0.7

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Differential Feed:

Gathering & Easing

Fabric .................................................... medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Using a fabric marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the

12” side.

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions

for a balanced overlock stitch.

Turn the differential feed dial to 2. Serge to the first mark.

Adjust stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.

Move the thread tension levers up to 8 to increase the needle thread

tensions. Serge to the end of the fabric.

Return the differential feed to “N” (normal).

Return the stitch length to 2.5 (normal).

Move the thread tension levers to return tensions to normal (3-5).

Mark the sample:

Differential Feed 2

Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4

Differential Feed 2 & stitch length 4 & increased needle tension.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Differential Feed: Gathering & Easing Sample

Increased needle tensions

SL 4mm

Diff. Feed 2

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Securing Serged Seams

Fabric ...................................................... medium weight cotton, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions

for a balanced overlock stitch.

Fold fabric in half to 2” x “6” and place under the presser foot. Note:

If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or Pinking Shears to trim the

samples, do all trimming before beginning to sew this sample.

Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric. Lower the needles into the fabric.

Raise the presser foot and with your left hand gently pull the thread

chain around the needles to the knife.

Lower the presser foot and continue serging (cutting off the excess

thread chain) until you are one stitch off the end of the fabric.

Locate the rolled hem lever on the right side of the cloth plate; pull

it towards you, releasing the thread chain from the stitch finger.

Raise the presser foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the

lower looper side of the previously serged seam will be overstitched.

Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the first stitch will

enter the fabric when you begin stitching.

Slide the rolled hem lever towards the body of the serger.

Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric

so as not to cut the previous stitching. Option: Rotate upper knife up.

Raise the toe of the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.

Serge off the edge of the fabric.

If the upper knife is up, rotate it down into the cutting position.

Trim and mount the sample

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Securing Serged Seams Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Serging a Tube

Fabric .................................................... medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.

With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.

Press the seam to one side. (The upper looper thread is the right side

of the seam.)

On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” x ¼” section of fabric.

Lower the presser foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”.

Stop serging when the knife enters the cutout; rotate the knife up.

Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous

stitching by 1”.

Raise the presser foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.

Lower the presser foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.

Return the knife to the normal cutting position.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Serging a Tube Sample

cut out

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Class 1

General Information

Product Reference List

‰ Feet-ures, Unit M

‰ Serger Technique Reference Book

‰ Serging Made Easy!

‰ Carrying Case

‰ Serger Cone Thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Success)

‰ color________

‰ Needles

‰ size____ and type___

‰ size____ and type____

‰ Seam Sealant

‰ Fabric Marking Pen

‰ Rotary Cutter

‰ Wavy Cutting Blade

‰ Clear Quilters’ Ruler

‰ Cutting Mat

‰ Fabric Glue Stick

‰ Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles

‰ Vacuum Cleaner Attachment

‰ 1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster

‰ BERNINA^®Thread Storage Box (clear)

‰ BERNINA^®Deluxe Accessory Box

‰ Standard Serger Foot with Tape Guide

‰ Scrap catcher

‰ Serger Needle/Looper Threader

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Class 2

Four Thread Techniques

Class Overview

General Construction Seaming

4-Thread Overlock Seam

Serging Knits

Seaming Knit Fabrics: Presser Foot Pressure

Seaming Knit Fabrics: Differential Feed

Seaming Knit Fabrics: Presser Foot Tape Guide

Attaching Ribbing

Serging Wovens

Serger Piecing

Reversible Piecing

Using Optional Accessories: Elasticator & Gathering Attachment

Elasticator

Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric

10 Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric to Fabric

11 Gathering Attachment: with Elasticator

Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)

Standard Presser Foot with Tape Guide

Holds narrow twill tape, elastic, and ribbon to be serged into seam

Elasticator

For attaching elastic from 5mm -12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.

Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)

Needed to attach some accessories to serger

Seam Guides

This class is formatted for owners of

the following models of BERNINA^®

overlock machines:

Right Seam Guide

Multi-Purpose Foot Guide

• 700 D

• 800 DL

Gathering Attachment

For gathering one layer, or gathering to a flat piece

• 1100D

• 1100DA

• 1200DA

• 1300DC

• 2500DCET

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4-Thread Overlock Seam

Fabric ...................................................... medium weight cotton, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread

......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Adjust settings as

indicated. Fine tune as needed.

Locate the seam guide markings on the knife guard. Measurements

shown are distances from the right needle. When using the left needle,

add 1/8” to measurements. Tip: Use a permanent marker to highlight

the raised markings; this is particularly useful for those with “mature”

eyesight.

Fold fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.

Align the fold of the fabric with the ½” mark on the knife guard (the left

needle is being used). Serge the seam, cutting off exactly ³/8”.

Trim and mount the sample.

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4-Thread Overlock Seam Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Seaming Knit Fabrics:

Presser Foot Pressure

Fabric ................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,

................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side

Needle............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread.............................................. 2 cones of serger thread (needles)

........................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon (loopers)

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, using regular serger

thread in the needles and Woolly Nylon in the loopers.

Set all thread tensions at usual 4-thread overlock settings.

Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.

With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark

on the fabric.

Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the

“ripple” effect where the fabric has stretched.

Reduce the presser foot pressure to low.

Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.

Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the de-

creased “rippling”.

Return the presser foot pressure adjusting lever its normal setting.

Trim and mount the sample.

Record settings in chart below:

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Seaming Knits: Presser Foot Pressure Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Seaming Knit Fabrics:

Differential Feed

Fabric ................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,

................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side

Needle............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread...............................................................2 cones of serger thread

........................................................................2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, using regular serger

thread in the needles and Woolly Nylon in the loopers.

Set all thread tensions at usual 4-thread overlock settings.

Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.

With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark

on the fabric.

Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the

“ripple” effect where the fabric has stretched.

Locate the differential feed dial on the serger. Adjust to 1.5.

Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.

Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the

decreased “rippling”.

Return the differential feed dial to normal setting (N).

Trim and mount the sample.

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Seaming Knit Fabrics: Differential Feed Sample

1.5

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Seaming Knit Fabrics:

Presser Foot Tape Guide

Fabric ................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,

................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side

........................................................... 8” length of ¼” twill tape or ribbon

Needle............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread...............................................................2 cones of serger thread

........................................................................2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .......................................... Standard Foot with Tape Guide

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Adjust tension settings

for a balanced 4-thread overlock.

Locate the tape guide on the presser foot.

Using the small screwdriver from the accessory pouch, loosen the fixing

screw and slide the tape guide all the way to the left. Snug the screw.

Slip the twill tape or ribbon into the slot on the presser foot.

Lower the presser foot and lower the needles into the tape or ribbon.

Loosen the fixing screw and adjust the tape guide to the width of the

tape or ribbon. Retighten the screw.

Seam the jersey together along the 6” side, catching the tape or ribbon

in the serged edge.

Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and examine the seam.

It will not stretch. The tape or ribbon has stabilized the seam.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Seaming Knits: Presser Foot Tape Guide Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Attaching Ribbing

Fabric ............................................................... sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”

.......................................................................ribbing, 6” wide x 2½” long

Needle............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread...............................................................2 cones of serger thread

........................................................................2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .......................................... Standard Foot with Tape Guide

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon

in both loopers. Set tensions for a balanced 4-thread overlock.

Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece (quarter circle).

Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together) to 1¾” x 6”.

Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right

side of the fleece.

Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the

fleece neckline.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Attaching Ribbing Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Serger Piecing

Fabric .............................3 strips medium weight cotton 1 3/4” x 4” each

............................................. 3 strips contrasting cotton, 13/4” x 4” each

Needle............................................. 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex

Thread...................................................................4 cones serger thread

........................................................................2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, with regular serger

thread in the needles and the loopers. Set all tensions for a balanced

4-thread overlock.

Create two strip sets, each with three alternating strips of fabric.

Strip #1 is light-dark-light; strip #2 is dark-light-dark. Serge strips

together without trimming any fabric. Press seam allowances toward

dark strips.

Using a rotary cutter, mat and ruler, cut the strip sets into 1¾” block

sets.

Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from

the dark/light/dark strip set. Discard the excess fabric.

Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip, matching seam

allowances. The opposing seams will “nest” into each other.

Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.

Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips.

Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the following page.

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Serger Piecing Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Reversible Piecing

Fabric ......................................................... 3 pieces cotton prints, 2” x 4”

................................................................... 1 piece cotton print, 2” x 5½”

............................................................................ 3 pieces muslin, 2” x 4”

........................................................................... 1 piece muslin, 2” x 5½”

............................................................................3 pieces batting, 2” x 4”

.......................................................................... 1 piece batting, 2” x 5½”

Needle..............................................80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex

Thread................................................................... 4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all tensions for a

balanced 4-thread overlock.

Optional: Increase the presser foot pressure for thick fabrics.

Create a quilt sandwich, layering the 4” fabrics as follows: 2 layers of

muslin (right sides together), one layer of batting, 2 layers of printed

fabric (right sides together) and a layer of batting on top.

Raise the presser foot and position the fabrics under it with the right

edges of the fabric and batting even with the left edge of the knife.

Serge the 6 layers together, stopping as necessary to keep the right

edges of the fabrics even. Open the layers (1 muslin, 1 quilt top, 1

batting) to the right and left of the serged seam and press.

To serge the third section into place, layer the remaining 4” fabrics as

follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right sides

together; batting on top.

Serge through all 6 layers. Open the last 3 layers; press.

Add the last section to the top edge of the 3-paneled quilt. Layer the

5½” fabrics as follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to

print, right sides together; batting on top.

Serge, open the layers to the top of the square, and press.

Trim and mount the sample on the following page.

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Reversible Piecing Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Elasticator

Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 12”

...........................................12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic

Needle.............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread................................................................... 2 cones serger thread

........................................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot ............................................................................Elasticator

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a

balanced stitch. Attach the Elasticator to the serger.

Adjust stitch length to 4mm.

Increase the presser foot pressure.

Locate and raise the roller guide in the front of the presser foot. Turn

the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)

Raise the presser foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under

the presser foot until it touches the needles.

Lower the presser foot and serge a few stitches to catch and straighten

the elastic along the right edge of the slot. Turn the handwheel to lower

the needles.

Lower the roller guide. Using the small screwdriver, adjust the guide

plate on the presser foot to the width of the elastic.

Locate the pressure adjustment set screw (on the top of the roller

guide) and turn the screw counterclockwise to completely loosen the

pressure on the roller.

Place the fabric under the presser foot and begin serging. Slowly

tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure on

the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not over tighten the screw.

Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric. Serge the elastic

onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the elastic for you.

Trim and mount the sample.

Return all settings to normal.

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Elasticator Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Gathering Attachment:

Gathering Fabric

Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 12”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread................................................................... 4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Other ..................................................................... Gathering Attachment

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

If necessary, install the attachment base on your serger (700D and

800DL only).

Raise the cutting knife and adjust cutting width to 3mm. Slip Gathering

Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the

fixing screw. Hint: Place the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw, then

rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten fixing screw.

Set cutting width at 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting

position. Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2. Using a fabric

marker, divide fabric into 3 sections along one 12” edge.

Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed

dog.) Raise the presser foot and insert the fabric under the Gathering

Attachment, up against the needles. The fabric is lying against the stitch

plate.

Lower the presser foot and serge to the first mark.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.

Increase the tension on both needles to 7. Serge to the end of the

fabric.

Mark the sample: with Differential Feed; with Differential Feed & SL4;

with Differential Feed, SL4 and tightened needle tensions.

Gathers Plus

Mount the sample on the following page.

Return all settings to normal.

For even more gathers,

tighten needle tensions

slightly and increase stitch

length to 4mm.

The attachment base can remain on the machine.

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Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Gathering Attachment:

Gathering Fabric to Fabric

Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 14”

................................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread................................................................... 4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Other ..................................................................... Gathering Attachment

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a

balanced 4-thread overlock.

Raise cutting knife and adjust cutting width to 3mm. Slip the Gathering

Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the

fixing screw. Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and

then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing

screw.

Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into

cutting position.

Adjust the differential feed dial to 2.

Raise the presser foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side up)

under the Gathering Attachment. The fabric is lying next to the stitch

plate. Lower presser foot. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under

the needles.

Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed

dog.) Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of the Gather-

ing Attachment and under the presser foot with the end of the 8” strip

touching the needles.

Serge the two strips together, the lower strip will gather as you sew.

Trim and mount the sample.

Gathers Plus

For even more gathers,

tighten needle tensions

slightly and increase stitch

length to 4mm.

Return all settings to normal.

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Gathering Attachment: Fabric to Fabric Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Gathering Attachment:

With Elasticator

Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 18”

...........................................12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread................................................................... 4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ............................................................................Elasticator

Other ..................................................................... Gathering Attachment

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a

balanced 4-thread overlock.

Attach the Gathering Attachment to the serger.

Adjust the differential feed dial to 2.

Attach the Elasticator Foot. Raise the presser foot and insert the 18”

strip of fabric under the Gathering Attachment. Sew several stitches

until the fabric is under the needles.

Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed

dog.) Decrease the presser foot pressure.

Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of

the presser foot.

Lower the presser foot and take a few stitches into the elastic.

As you serge, slowly tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to

increase the pressure on the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not

over tighten the screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the

fabric.

Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the

elastic.

Trim and mount the sample.

Return all settings to normal.

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Gathering Attachment: With Elasticator Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Class 2

Four-Thread Overlock Techniques

Product Reference List

‰ Feet-ures, Unit M

‰ Serger Technique Reference Book

‰ Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)

‰ color________

‰ Carrying Case

‰ color________

‰ Standard Foot with Tape Guide

(700D and 800DL only)

‰ color________

‰ Elasticator

‰ Gathering Attachment

‰ Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)

‰ Woolly Nylon texturized thread

‰ color________

‰ ½” Nylon Elastic

‰ ½” Cotton Braid Elastic

‰ ½” Clear Elastic

‰ ¼ ” Twill Tape

‰ variegated________

‰ Needles

‰ Stretch

size____

‰ Ballpoint

size____

‰ Sharp

‰ ¼ ” Ribbon

‰ Wavy Cutting Blade

‰ Clear Quilters’ Ruler

‰ Cutting Mat

‰ Fabric Glue Stick

‰ Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles

‰ Vacuum Cleaner Attachment

‰ 1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster

‰ BERNINA^®Thread Storage Box (clear)

‰ BERNINA^®Deluxe Accessory Box

‰ Scrap catcher

size____

‰ Microtex

size____

‰ Universal

size____

‰ Serger Needle/Looper Threader

‰ 6” Ruler/Gauge

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Class 3

Three-Thread Techniques

Class Overview

3-Thread Overlock

Wide 3-Thread Overlock

Wide Overlock Seam Finish

Outside Corners

Narrow 3-Thread Overlock

Narrow Overlock Seam Finish

Inside Corners

3-Thread Narrow Seam

Turning Tubes

3-Thread Flatlock

Narrow 3-Thread Flatlock

10 Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem

11 Blindstitch Foot -

Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem

12 Blindstitch Foot - Decorative Tucks

13 Blindstitch Foot - Joining Lace to Lace

3-Thread Rolled Hem

14 3-Thread Rolled Hem

15 Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle

16 Cording Foot - Wire-Edged Fabric

Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)

Blindstitch Foot

Adjustable guide for aligning stitches

Cording Foot

This class is formatted for owners of

the following models of BERNINA^®

overlock machines:

Guides for small cord, wire, fishline

• 700 D

• 800 DL

• 1100D

• 1100DA

• 1200DA

• 1300DC

• 2500DCET

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Wide Three-Thread Overlock Seam

Fabric ........................................................... mediumweight wool, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ....................................................................wide 3-thread overlock

Notes

Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, remove

the right needle. Note: If necessary, insert left needle before removing

right needle.

Snug the needle set screw after removing the needle.

Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch.

Set all thread tensions as indicated for a balanced stitch.

Adjust cutting width to 2mm (normal).

Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).

Fold fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.

Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Wide Three-Thread Overlock Seam Sample

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Wide Overlock Seam Finish

Fabric ............................... 2 pieces medium weight wool, 2½” x 5” each

..................................................2 strips bias cut tricot, ¾” x 5” (optional)

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ....................................................................wide 3-thread overlock

Notes

Set serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch (left needle). Adjust all

settings for a balanced stitch.

Serge one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric. Optional: For added

support, wrap the fabric edge with strips of bias cut tricot or water

soluble stabilizer before serging.

Using your BERNINA^®sewing machine and a ⁵/8” seam allowance,

seam the two pieces of fabric together along the serged edges.

Press seam open.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Wide Overlock Seam Finish Sample

Fabric edge wrapped with strips of bias cut

tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Outside Corners

Fabric ................................................... 2 pieces firm fabric, 4” x 5” each

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ....................................................................wide 3-thread overlock

Notes

OPTION I

Serge one edge of the fabric, stitching off the end of the fabric. Trim the

thread tail.

Continue serging around the square, crossing over previous stitching.

Use a seam sealant on the untrimmed thread tails (or use a tapestry

needle to weave the thread tail back through the stitching). When the

seam sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.

O^PTIONII

Before serging, trim away the seam allowance (¼”) for about 2” on each

corner of the square.

Beginning at one trimmed corner, serge (cutting ¼” as you sew) to the

end of the fabric. Take one stitch off the end of the fabric.

Locate the rolled hem lever on the stitch plate and pull the white lever

towards you. This will free the thread from the stitch finger.

Lift the presser foot and carefully pivot the fabric 90° clockwise.

Return the rolled hem lever to normal (away from you).

Place the needle one stitch into the fabric and lower the presser foot.

Continue serging until you are one stitch off the next corner.

Repeat the turning procedure and continue serging.

Trim and mount the samples.

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Outside Corners Samples

OPTION I

O^PTIONII

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Narrow Three-Thread Overlock

Fabric ................................................................lightweight fabric, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock

Notes

Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, loosen the

right needle screw and insert the right needle. Hint: Place the point of

the needle directly above the right needle space of the presser foot,

then lift the needle up to place the shank in the correct hole. Snug right

needle screw.

Remove the left needle. Snug the needle set screw after removing the

left needle.

Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a

narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. Adjust all settings for a balanced stitch.

Adjust cutting width to 2mm (normal).

Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).

Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.

Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Narrow Three-Thread Overlock Sample

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Inside Corners

Fabric ................................................... 2 pieces firm fabric, 3” x 4” each

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock

Notes

OPTION I

This technique works well for continuous plackets on sleeves and back

neck openings.

Cut an inside corner into the fabric. Snip into the corner ¼” (the width

of the stitching). Serge until the knife reaches the end of the cut.

Use the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric. Lift the presser

foot and straighten the corner towards you. Lower the presser foot and

continue serging.

O^PTIONII

Rotate the upper knife up.

Cut an inside corner into the fabric. Line up the left edge of the cut with

the lower knife blade. Keep the edge of the fabric even with the lower

knife blade as you stitch.

Serge for a few stitches. Turn the handwheel to lower the needle into

the fabric. Fold the right side of the corner towards you at about a 45°

angle. Serge one stitch beyond the cut edge. Turn the handwheel to

lower the needle into the fabric.

Lift the presser foot. Fold the serged edge down and to the left, angling

the serged edge about 45°. Pivot the fabric until the raw edge is even

with the lower knife blade.

Lower the presser foot and continue stitching. Use the thread cutter to

cut the thread chain at the end of the seam. (the upper knife is still

disengaged).

Return the upper knife to cutting position.

Trim and mount samples.

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Inside Corners Samples

OPTION I

O^PTIONII

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Three-Thread Narrow Seam

Fabric ................................................................................ batiste, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch .....................................................................3-thread narrow seam

Notes

Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a

3-thread narrow seam (right needle). Adjust settings as indicated.

Adjust cutting width to 1.5mm.

Adjust stitch length to 1.75mm (normal).

Pull the rolled edge lever toward you (out from the machine).

Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.

Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Three-Thread Narrow Seam Sample

Balanced 3-Thread Narrow Seam

Upper Looper .............................. 4-6

Lower Looper .............................. 4-6

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width .............................. 1.5

Stitch Length ......................... 1.7mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ...................... out

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Turning Tubes

Fabric ................................................................................... tricot, 2” x 6”

Needle............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock

Notes

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle).

Adjust settings as indicated for a balanced stitch.

Adjust stitch length to 1.5mm.

Serge a thread chain several inches longer than the fabric.

Fold the fabric, right sides together, to 1” x 6” encasing the thread chain

against the fold.

With the folded edge aligned with the left edge of the presser foot,

serge the tube. Be careful not to catch the thread chain in the stitching.

After stitching the tube, gently pull on the thread chain and turn the tube

right side out.

Mount the sample.

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Turning Tubes Sample

Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 4-6

Lower Looper .............................. 4-6

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 1.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Narrow Three-Thread Flatlock

Fabric ................................................................sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

........................................................................... 1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch .................................................................. narrow 3-thread flatlock

Notes

Set serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch with YLI Jeans Stitch in

the upper looper. Set thread tensions as directed in your owner’s

manual.

Adjust stitch length to 3mm. (If necessary, you can shorten the stitch

length slightly to fill in the stitch as you serge.)

Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 2” x 6”.

Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide to the serger (700D and 800DL

will require the Attachment Base). Move the Right Seam Guide halfway

between the needle and the stitch finger.

Place the fold under the presser foot. Guide the fabric halfway between

the left needle and the right edge of the stitch finger (or against the

Right Seam Guide).

Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the

fabric on the right side of fold.

Gently pull the fabric flat

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to their normal settings.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Narrow Three-Thread Flatlock Sample

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 1-2

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 3mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem

Fabric .......................................................................cotton jersey, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ............................................................................Blindstitch

Stitch .................................................................. narrow 3-thread flatlock

Notes

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle).

Set needle thread tensions as directed in the instruction leaflet for the

Blindstitch Foot.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.

Attach the Blindstitch Foot.

Following the instructions in the leaflet for the Blindstitch Foot, fold the

fabric for a 1½” blind hem and place the fabric under the foot. Adjust the

fabric guide so that the needle just catches the fold in the stitching.

Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.

Press the hem.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem Sample

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 1-2

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 3mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Blindstitch Foot -

Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem

Notes

Fabric ..........................................................mediumweight fabric, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ............................................................................Blindstitch

Stitch .................................................................. narrow 3-thread flatlock

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle). Set

needle thread tension levers as directed in the instruction leaflet for the

Blindstitch Foot.

Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.

Attach the Blindstitch Foot.

Turn up a double folded 1” hem. Fold the remaining fabric under so that

no fabric extends beyond the upper edge of the hem.

Place the fabric under the presser foot. The fold of the fabric should

rest against the guide. Adjust the fabric guide so that the needle just

catches the fold in the stitching.

Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.

Press the hem.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem Sample

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 1-2

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 3mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Blindstitch Foot -

Decorative Tucks

Fabric ................................................................................ batiste, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................... 70/10 Sharp or Microtex

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ............................................................................Blindstitch

Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock

Notes

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle).

Adjust settings as indicated.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.

Attach the Blindstitch Foot.

Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.

Stiffen the batiste with spray starch or fabric stiffener.

Mark three lines 1” apart across the fabric.

Fold the fabric wrong sides together along one marked line and place

the fabric under the presser foot with the fold against the guide.

Serge the tuck; repeat for the two remaining marked lines.

Return the rolled hem lever to the normal serging position.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Blindstitch Foot - Decorative Tucks Sample

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 4-6

Lower Looper .............................. 4-6

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 1.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Blindstitch Foot -

Joining Lace to Lace

Fabric ..............................................2 pieces of flat edging lace, 6” each

Needle............................................................... 70/10 Sharp or Microtex

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ............................................................................Blindstitch

Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock

Notes

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle).

Adjust settings as indicated.

Loosen the right needle tension slightly.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.

Attach the Blindstitch Foot.

Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.

Stiffen the lace with spray starch or fabric stiffener.

With right sides together, place the header of the laces under the

presser foot against the guide.

Serge the laces together.

Gently pull the lace flat and press.

Trim and mount the sample

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Blindstitch Foot - Joining Lace to Lace Sample

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 4-6

Lower Looper .............................. 4-6

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 2-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 1.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Three-Thread Rolled Hem

Fabric ..........................................................mediumweight fabric, 3” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

..........................................................................1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ........................................................................3-thread rolled edge

Notes

Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle) with

Woolly Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as indicated in your

owner’s manual.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.

Set cutting width at 2 (normal).

Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge.

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Three-Thread Rolled Hem Sample

3-Thread Rolled Edge

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length .......................1.75mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ...................... out

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Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle

Fabric .................................... mediumweight fabric, 3” x 18”, cut on bias

...........................................................nylon fishing line, 15-20# test, 24”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

..........................................................................1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot ................................................................................Cording

Stitch ........................................................................3-thread rolled edge

Notes

Set the serger for a 3-thread rolled edge (right needle) with Woolly

Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as directed in your owner’s

manual.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.

Set cutting width at 1.5.

Attach the Cording Foot.

Following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Cording Foot,

insert the nylon fishing line through the guide.

Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 18” edge

stretching the fabric edge as you sew.

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle Sample

3-Thread Rolled Edge

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length .......................1.75mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ...................... out

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Cording Foot -

Wire-Edged Fabric

Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight fabric, 3” x 18”

Other ..............................................28 gauge floral wire, two 24” lengths

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

..........................................................................1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot ................................................................................Cording

Stitch ........................................................................3-thread rolled edge

Notes

Set the serger for a 3-thread rolled edge (right needle) with Woolly

Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as indicated.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.

Set cutting width at 1.5.

Attach the Cording Foot. Following the direction in the instruction leaflet

for the Cording Foot, insert the wire through the guides.

Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 18” edge,

feeding the wire through the foot as you serge.

Use wire cutters to cut the wire. Do not use the serger knives.

Repeat for the other 18” edge of the fabric.

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.

Secure the thread tails with a seam sealant. When the sealant is dry,

cut the thread tails. Use wire cutters to trim the wire, if needed.

Tie the wired fabric into a bow.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Cording Foot - Wire-Edged Fabric Sample

3-Thread Rolled Edge

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length .......................1.75mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ...................... out

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Class 3

Three-Thread Techniques

Product Reference List

‰ Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)

‰ color________

‰ Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)

‰ Serger Technique Reference Book

‰ Carrying Case

‰ color________

‰ Cording Foot

‰ Right Seam Guide

‰ Woolly Nylon texturized thread

‰ color________

‰ Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)

‰ Seams Great bias cut tricot

‰ ½” Cotton Braid Elastic

‰ ½” Clear Elastic

‰ color________

‰ variegated________

‰ ¼ ” Twill Tape

‰ YLI Jeans Stitch thread

‰ color________

‰ ¼ ” Ribbon

‰ Wavy Cutting Blade

‰ color________

‰ variegated________

‰ Clear Quilters’ Ruler

‰ Cutting Mat

‰ BERNINA^®Ironing System

‰ Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles

‰ Vacuum Cleaner Attachment

‰ 1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster

‰ BERNINA^®Thread Storage Box (clear)

‰ BERNINA^®Deluxe Accessory Box

‰ Scrap catcher

‰ Needles

‰ Stretch

size____

‰ Ballpoint

size____

‰ Sharp

‰ Serger Needle/Looper Threader

‰ 6” Ruler/Gauge

size____

‰ Microtex

size____

‰ Universal

size____

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Class 4

Miscellaneous Techniques

Class Overview

Installing the Upper Looper Converter (2-Thread Adapter)

Specialty Stitches using Upper Looper Converter

3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch

3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch - Attaching Elastic

Wide 2-Thread Flatlock

Serging with Heavy Decorative Threads

2-Thread Rolled Hem

2-Thread Wrapped Edge

Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide - Corded Piping

Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide - Creating & Attaching Corded Piping

Multi-Purpose Foot with the Gathering Attachment

10 Multi-Purpose Foot - Attaching Pre-Strung Beads

Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)

Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Two grooves for guiding cord, sequins, beads, etc.

Gathering Attachment

For gathering one layer, or gathering to a flat piece

Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)

Needed to attach some accessories to serger

Seam Guides

This class is formatted for owners of

the following models of BERNINA^®

overlock machines:

Right Seam Guide

Multi-Purpose Foot Guide

• 700 D

• 800 DL

• 1100D

• 1100DA

• 1200DA

• 1300DC

• 2500DCET

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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch

Fabric ......................................................... cotton or nylon Lycra, 5” x 6”

Needle................................................... 80/12 Stretch or 75/11 Ballpoint

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

..........................................................................1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch .....................................................................3-thread super stretch

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for a super stretch stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper. Adjust

settings as indicated.

Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).

Fold the Lycra in half to 2½” x 6”.

Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.

Trim and mount the sample

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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch Sample

3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch -

Attaching Elastic

Fabric ......................................................... cotton or nylon Lycra, 3” x 6”

Other ...................................... 12” length of nylon or cotton elastic braid

Needle................................................... 80/12 Stretch or 75/11 Ballpoint

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

..........................................................................1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot ........................................................................... Elasticator

Stitch .....................................................................3-thread super stretch

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual thread the serger for

a Super Stretch Stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.

Increase the presser foot pressure.

Attach the Elasticator Foot. Turn the pressure adjustment screw (on the

roller guide) clockwise to set pressure as desired.

Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of

the presser foot.

Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Attaching Elastic Sample

3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 4mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Wide Two-Thread Flatlock

Fabric ........................................................ mediumweight cotton, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread.....................................................................1 cone serger thread

........................................................................... 1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ...................................................................... wide 2-thread flatlock

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a 2-thread flatlock stitch using Jeans Stitch in the lower looper. Adjust

settings as indicated.

Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.

Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and position it halfway between the left

needle and the stitch finger. Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide.

Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and the stitch

finger.

Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the

fabric on the right side of fold.

Gently pull the fabric flat

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Wide Two-Thread Flatlock Sample

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 1-2

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Serging with

Heavy Decorative Threads

Fabric ................................. 3 pieces mediumweight cotton, 4” x 6” each

Needle............................................................................. 90/14 Universal

Thread.....................................................................1 cone serger thread

............................................................... 1 cone YLI Pearl Crown Rayon

............................................................................. 1 cone YLI Designer 6

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ...................................................................... wide 2-thread flatlock

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a wide 2-thread flatlock stitch using decorative thread in the lower

looper. Adjust settings as indicated.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. (If needed, you can slowly shorten the

stitch length as you serge to fill in the flatlock stitch).

Serge the sample. If the tension on the decorative thread is too tight,

decrease the looper tension and try again. If the thread tension on the

decorative thread is still too tight, remove the thread from the last thread

guide and try again.

Experiment with the suggested threads, adjusting thread tension and/or

bypassing thread guides as needed.

Press, trim, and mount the samples on the following page.

No Speeding!

To avoid uneven stitches,

tangled threads, hiccups,

and other imperfections,

always sew slowly when

working with decorative

threads.

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Serging with Decorative Threads Sample

Pearl Crown Rayon

Candlelight

Designer 6

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 1-2

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 4mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Two-Thread Rolled Hem

Fabric ................................................................................ batiste, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................... 70/10 Sharp or Microtex

Thread................................................ 2 cones lightweight serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ................................................. 2-thread rolled edge (right needle)

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for a 2-thread flatlock stitch. Adjust settings as directed.

Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.

Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.

Set cutting width at 2mm (normal).

Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge,

trimming about ¹/8” from the raw edge.

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Two-Thread Rolled Hem Sample

2-Thread Rolled Edge

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width .......................... 1-1.5

Stitch Length ......................1-1.8mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ...................... out

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Two-Thread Wrapped Edge

Fabric ................................................ heavy wool or polar fleece, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread.....................................................................1 cone serger thread

........................................................................... 1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ......................... wide 2-thread wrapped edge (left or right needle)

Notes

Attach the 2-thread adapter (upper looper converter) to the upper

looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual’ thread the serger

for a 2-thread wrapped edge using Jeans Stitch in the lower looper.

Adjust settings as indicated.

Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one edge;

adjust the differential feed if needed.

If the Jeans Stitch does not wrap around the edge completely, the

thread tension may be too tight. Reduce the looper thread tension.

If the thread still does not wrap, remove the Jeans Stitch thread from

the uppermost thread guide and try again.

Wrap-stitch the other three edges of the fabric.

Use seam sealant to seal the stitching at the corners. When the

sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.

Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Sample

2-Thread Wrapped Edge - Wide

Upper Looper .................... converter

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... n/a

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 2.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide -

Corded Piping

Fabric ......................................... mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

Other ................................................... 12” length of ³/8” cotton filler cord

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ........................................... Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Adjust all settings for a

balanced stitch.

Set stitch length to 3.5mm.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the

instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Note: 700D

and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.

Insert the filler cord into the guide.

Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the

groove under the foot.

Serge the covered cord.

Mount the sample.

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Multi-Purpose Foot - Corded Piping Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ......................... 3.5mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide -

Creating & Attaching Corded Piping

Fabric ......................................... mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

.................................................................. mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”

Other ................................................... 12” length of ³/8” cotton filler cord

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ........................................... Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Adjust settings for a

balanced stitch.

Set stitch length to 3mm.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the

instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Note: 700D

and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.

Place the 3” x 8” fabric under the foot.

Insert the cord into the guide.

Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the

groove under the foot and on top of the other fabric.

Serge, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip in

one stitching.

Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.

Mount the sample.

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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide -

Creating & Attaching Corded Piping Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 3mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Multi-Purpose Foot with

the Gathering Attachment

Notes

Fabric ......................................... mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

................................................................ mediumweight cotton, 3” x 18”

Other ................................................... 12” length of ³/8” cotton filler cord

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ........................................... Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Other .....................................................................Gathering Attachment

Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Adjust settings for a

balanced stitch.

Set stitch length to 3mm.

Adjust differential feed to 2.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the

instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.

Attach the Gathering Attachment following the directions in the instruc-

tion leaflet. Note: 700D and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.

Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the

groove under the foot.

Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into the fabric.

Place the 3” x 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and next to

the needles.

Serge, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and seaming all

layers together.

Mount the sample on the following page.

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Multi-Purpose Foot with

the Gathering Attachment Sample

Balanced 4-Thread Overlock

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 3-5

Left Needle ................................. 3-5

Right Needle ............................... 3-5

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 3mm

Differential Feed............................. 2

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Multi-Purpose Foot -

Attaching Pre-Strung Beads

Fabric ................................................................... mediumweight, 4” x 8”

Other ................................. 10” length of 4mm, plastic, pre-strung beads

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot ........................................... Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Stitch ............................................narrow 3-thread flatlock (right needle)

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch using the right needle. Adjust settings

as indicated.

Set stitch length to 4mm.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the

instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.

Lay the pre-strung beads in the groove on the top of the foot, threading

them under the back groove (see instruction leaflet for the Multi-Pur-

pose Foot with Guide). Turn the handwheel to encase the first beads

inside the thread chain.

Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and place the fabric under the foot with

the fold halfway between the needle and the stitch finger or against the

right seam guide.

Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.

Gently pull the fabric flat.

Mount the sample.

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Multi-Purpose Foot -

Attaching Pre-Strung Beads Sample

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Upper Looper .............................. 3-5

Lower Looper .............................. 7-9

Left Needle ................................. n/a

Right Needle ............................... 1-2

Cutting Width ..............................2-3

Stitch Length ............................ 4mm

Differential Feed............................ N

Rolled Edge Lever ........................ in

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Class 4

Miscellaneous Techniques

Product Reference List

‰ Feet-ures, Unit M

‰ Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)

‰ Serger Technique Reference Book

‰ Serging Made Easy!

‰ color________

‰ Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

‰ Elasticator

‰ Woolly Nylon texturized thread

‰ color________

‰ Right Seam Guide

‰ variegated________

‰ Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)

‰ 2-Thread Adapter (700D only)

‰ Isacord embroidery thread

‰ color________

‰ Pearls-by-the-Yard (3mm-4mm)

‰ Seam Sealant

‰ color________

‰ Wavy Cutting Blade

‰ Clear Quilters’ Ruler

‰ Cutting Mat

‰ YLI Jeans Stitch thread

‰ color________

‰ variegated________

‰ BERNINA^®Ironing System

‰ Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles

‰ Vacuum Cleaner Attachment

‰ 1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster

‰ Carrying Case

‰ YLI Pearl Crown Rayon

‰ color________

‰ variegated________

‰ BERNINA^®Thread Storage Box (clear)

‰ BERNINA^®Deluxe Accessory Box

‰ Scrap catcher

‰ Serger Needle/Looper Threader

‰ 6” Ruler/Gauge

‰ YLI Designer 6

‰ color________

‰ YLI Candlelight

‰ color________

‰ Stretch Needles size____

‰ Ballpoint Needles size____

‰ Sharp Needles size____

‰ Microtex Needles size____

‰ Stretch Needles size____

‰ Universal Needles size____

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Class 5

Cover & Chain

Class Overview

Conversion to Cover/Chain Stitch (1300DC & 2500DCET only)

Coverstitch Techniques

1 Coverstitch

2 Top & Bottom Coverstitch (2500DCET only)

3 Mock Flat Felled Seam

4 Coverstitch Hem - Woven Fabric

5 Coverstitch Hem - Knit Fabric

6 Attaching Lace

Chain Stitch Techniques

7 Chain Stitch Seam

8 Attaching Binding

9 Decorative Chain Stitch

10 4-Thread Combination Stitch (1300DC only)

11 5-Thread Combination Stitch (1300DC only)

Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)

Coverstitch Foot

Two “floating” toes for ease in stitching uneven layers

This class is formatted for owners of

the following models of BERNINA^®

overlock machines:

• 1300DC

• 2500DCET

• 009DCC

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Coverstitch

Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 3” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................standard or Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path

on the serger (use blue thread for purple markings).

Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place

the fabric completely under the foot.

Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.

Serge to the end of the fabric.

At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until

the needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel

clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to release the

threads from the looper.

Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work.

Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic

in your owner’s manual. Read the tension adjustment information in

your owner’s manual for information about stitch formation and irregu-

larities. Adjust settings as necessary; stitch a second row of coverstitch.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Coverstitch Sample

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle ...............33-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ........... Left, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Right Needle ............... 6.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length......... 3.0mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Top & Bottom Coverstitch

(2500DCET only)

Notes

Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

......................................................................... 2 cones YLI Jeans Stitch

Presser Foot .......................................................standard or Coverstitch

Stitch ...................................wide 5-thread coverstitch (2500DCET only)

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for top and bottom cover stitch using Jeans Stitch in the looper and

wiper.

Fold up a 2” hem along one 6” edge. Position the fabric right side up

under the presser foot so that the needles will pierce the top edge of

the hem. Serge the hem in place.

At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until

the needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel

clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to release the

threads from the looper.

Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work.

Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic

in your owner’s manual. Read the tension adjustment information in

your owner’s manual for information about stitch formation and irregu-

larities. Adjust settings as necessary; stitch a second row of coverstitch.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Top & Bottom Coverstitch Sample

Top & Bottom Coverstitch - 3 needles

2500DCET

Needles .......................... Left, Center, Right

Tension...................................................... H

Stitch Length........................................ 3mm

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Mock Flat Felled Seam

Fabric ..................................................mediumweight cotton twill, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................................... Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading

path on the serger (use blue for purple markings).

Fold the fabric to form a ½” tuck lengthwise through the center of the

fabric.

Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and

place the fabric completely under the foot, with the bulk of the fold

to the left. Align the folded edge with the inside of the right floating

toe of the presser foot.

Coverstitch, forming a tuck along the edge of the fabric. Serge to the

end of the fabric.

At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until

the needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel

clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to release the

threads from the looper.

Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Cut the thread

using the thread cutter.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Mock Flat Felled Seam Sample

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle ...............33-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ........... Left, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Right Needle ............... 6.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Coverstitch Hem - Woven Fabric

Fabric ..................................................mediumweight cotton twill, 4” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................................... Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading

path on the serger (use blue for purple markings).

Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in

place.

Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric

under the needles with the fold to the right of the presser foot, with

the right side of the fabric up and the hem/wrong side down.

Coverstitch the hem in place.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Coverstitch Hem Sample - Woven Fabric

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle ...............33-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ........... Left, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Right Needle ............... 6.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Coverstitch Hem - Knit Fabric

Fabric .......................................................................cotton jersey, 5” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................................... Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading

path on the serger (use blue for purple markings).

Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin

in place.

Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric

under the needles with the fold to the right or the presser foot, with

the right side of the fabric up and the hem/wrong side down.

Coverstitch the hem in place. There is no need to stretch the fabric

while stitching, as the cover stitch has natural stretch.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Coverstitch Hem Sample - Knit Fabric

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle ...............33-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ........... Left, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Right Needle ............... 6.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Attaching Lace

Fabric ........................................................ mediumweight cotton, 3” x 6”

.............................................................. 8” length of 1” wide lace edging

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................................... Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Use spray starch or fabric stiffener to stabilize the fabric and lace.

Position the lace on the right side of the fabric with the scalloped edge

of the lace even with the left side of the fabric.

Place fabric and lace under the needles with the lace header positioned

even with the inside edge of the right floating toe.

Coverstitch the lace to the fabric.

Trim fabric from beneath the lace.

Trim and mount sample.

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Attaching Lace Sample

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle .................3-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ....... Center, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Center Needle ............ 5.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Chain Stitch Seam

Fabric ................................. 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, each 3” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................2 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................................... Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ wide 3-thread coverstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

chain stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path

on the serger (use blue thread for purple markings).

With right sides together, place the fabric under the needles. Align the

raw edges with the ⁵/8” mark on the stitch plate.

Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.

Serge to the end of the fabric.

At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until

the needle is at its lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise

until the needle is at its highest position to release the thread from the

looper.

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, raise the presser foot

and carefully remove the work. Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic

in your owner's manual. Read the tension adjustment information in

your owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and

correcting any stitch irregularities. Make any necessary tension adjust-

ments and serge another row of stitching.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Chain Stitch Seam Sample

Chain Stitch

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle .................3-5 Left Needle ................. 4.5 Needles ....................Right

Right Needle ............... n/a Right Needle ............... n/a Tension .......................... G

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length ......... 2.5mm

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Attaching Binding

Fabric ................................................................pre-quilted fabric, 3” x 6”

............................................... 20” length of wide prefolded bias binding

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread........................................................... 2 or 3 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .......................................................standard or Coverstitch

Stitch ................................................................ chainstitch or coverstitch

Notes

Cover Stitch Option:

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

cover stitch.

Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure in

place with 505 temporary spray adhesive.

Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the

binding even with the inside of the left floating toe, with the quilted

fabric to the left.

Coverstitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

Chain Stitch Option:

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger

for chain stitch.

Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure

in place with 505 temporary spray adhesive.

Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the

binding even with the inside of the left floating toe, with the quilted

fabric to the right.

Chain stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Attaching Binding Sample

Chain Stitch

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle .................3-5 Left Needle ................. 4.5 Needles ....................Right

Right Needle ............... n/a Right Needle ............... n/a Tension .......................... G

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length ......... 2.5mm

Two Needle Coverstitch - Wide

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle ...............33-5 Left Needle ................. 3.2 Needles ........... Left, Right

Right Needle ...............3-5 Right Needle ............... 6.5 Tension ........................... F

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length............ 3mm Stitch Length ............ 3mm

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Decorative Chain Stitch

Fabric .........................................................mediumweight denim, 6” x 6”

Stabilizer ...................................................................... tear-away, 6” x 6”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread.....................................................................1 cone serger thread

......................................................... 3 cones Isacord embroidery thread

................................................................ 1 cone Yenmet metallic thread

Presser Foot .......................................................standard or Coverstitch

Stitch ....................................................................................... chainstitch

Notes

Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for

cover stitch, threading the 3 strands of Isacord embroidery thread

together, treating them as one thread. Use a lower looper threader or

dental floss threader to thread them through the eye of the looper.

Slightly loosen the tension on the chain stitch looper.

Place the stabilizer against the wrong side of the denim. Place the

denim right side down under the presser foot; the stabilizer will be on

top.

Chainstitch a curved line across the fabric. Turn the fabric over to see

the decorative stitching on the right side.

To increase the amount of decorative thread that shows, increase the

stitch length to 3mm or 4mm. Changing stitch length as you serge will

vary the decorative chain stitch effect. Always use a stitch length of at

least 2.5mm.

Stitch several more curved lines across the fabric.

Remove one spool of Isacord embroidery thread and replace it with

Yenmet metallic thread. Rethread the serger using 2 spools of Isacord

embroidery thread and 1 spool of Yenmet metallic thread in the lower

looper. Loosen the chain stitch looper tension slightly. Sew several

additional rows of decorative chain stitch.

Trim and mount the sample.

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Decorative Chain Stitch Sample

Chain Stitch

009DCC

1300DC

2500DECT

Left Needle .................3-5 Left Needle ................. 4.5 Needle ......................Right

Right Needle ............... n/a Right Needle ............... n/a Tension .......................... G

Looper........................... M Chain Looper ................ M

Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length......... 2.5mm Stitch Length ......... 2.5mm

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4-Thread Combination Stitch

(1300DC only)

Notes

Fabric .......................................... 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................4 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ........................................ 2-thread overlock with chain stitch (#19)

Thread the serger for a 4-thread combination stitch, following the in-

structions on the LCD screen (which are also in your owners manual).

Serge fabric strips together along one long edge.

Trim and mount the sample.

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4-Thread Combination Stitch Sample

4-Thread Combination Stitch (1300DC only)

1300DC

Right Coverstitch Needle .............................. 3.2

Left Overlock Needle ....................................... 4

Chain Looper .................................................. M

Upper Looper ......................................converter

Lower Looper ................................................ 6.7

Stitch Length........................................... 2.5mm

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5-Thread Combination Stitch

(1300DC only)

Notes

Fabric .......................................... 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”

Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal

Thread...................................................................5 cones serger thread

Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard

Stitch ........................................ 3-thread overlock with chain stitch (#18)

Thread the serger for a 5-thread combination stitch, following the in-

structions on the LCD screen (which are also in your owners manual).

Serge fabric strips together along one long edge.

Trim and mount the sample.

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5-Thread Combination Stitch Sample

5-Thread Combination Stitch (1300DC only)

1300DC

Right Coverstitch Needle ........................ 4.0

Right Overlock Needle ............................ 4.5

Chain Looper ............................................ M

Upper Looper .......................................... 4.0

Lower Looper .......................................... 4.0

Stitch Length..................................... 2.5mm

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Class 5

Cover & Chain

Product Reference List

‰ Feet-ures - Unit M

‰ Serger Technique Reference Book

‰ Serging Made Easy!

‰ Mettler serger thread

‰^ꢀcolor________

‰ Isacord embroidery thread

‰^ꢀcolor________

‰ Yenmet metallic thread

‰^ꢀcolor________

‰ 505 temporary adhesive spray

‰ Bias binding

‰ Bias tape makers

‰ BERNINA^®Ironing System

‰ 6” seam guide

‰ Rotary cutter

‰ BERNINA^®cutting mat

‰ BERNINA^®clear 14” ruler

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