Woodstock Saw W1824 User Manual
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INTRODUCTION .....................................2  
Narrow-Rip Auxiliary Fence & Push Block.. 49  
Outfeed & Support Tables .................... 51  
Crosscut Sled.................................... 51  
Woodstock Technical Support ..................2  
Controls and Features...........................2  
Machine Specifications ..........................3  
ACCESSORIES...................................... 52  
SAFETY...............................................6  
Standard Machinery Safety Instructions ......6  
Additional Safety for Table Saws ..............8  
Kickback ...........................................9  
Table Saw Accessories ......................... 52  
MAINTENANCE .................................... 54  
Schedule......................................... 54  
Cleaning ......................................... 54  
Lubrication ...................................... 55  
ELECTRICAL ....................................... 10  
Circuit Requirements .......................... 10  
Grounding Requirements...................... 11  
Extension Cords ................................ 11  
Voltage Conversion............................. 12  
SERVICE ............................................ 56  
General .......................................... 56  
Belt Service ..................................... 56  
Tilt Stop Collars ................................ 58  
Miter Slot to Blade Parallelism............... 60  
Spreader or Riving Knife Alignment ......... 63  
Fence Adjustments............................. 65  
Miter Gauge Adjustments ..................... 68  
Electrical Safety Instructions................. 69  
Wiring Diagram ................................. 70  
Electrical Components ........................ 71  
Troubleshooting................................. 72  
SETUP............................................... 13  
Unpacking ....................................... 13  
Needed for Setup .............................. 13  
Inventory ........................................ 14  
Machine Placement ............................ 15  
Cleaning Machine............................... 15  
Assembly......................................... 16  
Dust Collection ................................. 20  
Test Run.......................................... 21  
Recommended Adjustments .................. 21  
PARTS............................................... 74  
Cabinet & Table ................................ 74  
Trunnion & Switch Breakdown ............... 75  
Trunnion & Switch Parts List ................. 76  
Blade Guard..................................... 77  
Fence/Rails/Miter Gauge Breakdown....... 78  
Fence/Rails/Miter Gauge Parts List......... 79  
Label Placement ............................... 80  
OPERATIONS....................................... 22  
General .......................................... 22  
Basic Controls................................... 22  
Operation Overview ........................... 23  
Workpiece Inspection.......................... 23  
Non-Through & Through Cuts ................ 24  
Blade Size Requirements...................... 25  
Blade Selection................................. 25  
Blade Installation .............................. 27  
Blade Guard Assembly......................... 28  
Riving Knife ..................................... 31  
Ripping........................................... 32  
Crosscutting..................................... 33  
Miter Cuts ....................................... 34  
Blade Tilt Cuts.................................. 34  
Dado Cutting.................................... 35  
Rabbet Cutting ................................. 38  
Resawing......................................... 40  
WARRANTY ........................................ 85  
For Your Own Safety Read Owner's Manual  
Before Operating Saw  
a) Wear eye protection.  
b) Use saw-blade guard and riving knife  
for every operation for which it can be  
used, including all through sawing.  
c) Keep hands out of the line of saw blade.  
d) Use a push-stick when required.  
e) Pay particular attention to instructions  
on reducing risk of kickback.  
SHOP-MADE SAFETY ACCESSORIES............ 44  
Featherboards .................................. 44  
Push Sticks ...................................... 47  
Push Blocks...................................... 48  
f) Do not perform any operation freehand.  
g) Never reach around or over saw blade.  
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INTRODUCTION  
Woodstock Technical Support  
This machine has been specially designed to provide many years of trouble-free service. Close attention  
to detail, ruggedly built parts and a rigid quality control program assure safe and reliable operation.  
Woodstock International, Inc. is committed to customer satisfaction. Our intent with this manual is to  
include the basic information for safety, setup, operation, maintenance, and service of this product.  
We stand behind our machines! In the event that questions arise about your machine, please contact  
Woodstock International Technical Support at (360) 734-3482 or send e-mail to: k\Z_$jlggfik7j_fg]fo%  
Y`q. Our knowledgeable staff will help you troubleshoot problems and process warranty claims.  
If you need the latest edition of this manual, you can download it from _kkg1&&nnn%j_fg]fo%Y`q.  
If you have comments about this manual, please contact us at:  
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Controls and Features  
Miter Gauge  
Fence  
Right  
Extension Wing  
Blade Guard  
Left  
Extension Wing  
Extension  
Table  
Fence  
Rail Tube  
Blade Tilt  
Handwheel & Lock  
START/STOP  
Switch  
4" Dust Port  
Blade Height  
Handwheel & Lock  
Tilt  
Scale  
Figure 1. Model W1824 identification.  
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\ꢓꢈꢏꢃꢇꢀꢊꢓꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ _ꢃꢜꢋꢇ<>ꢚQꢇꢏꢃꢔꢄ  
?$[ꢌ$ꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ Q=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
?$[ꢌ$ꢇꢍꢂꢃꢃꢏꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙꢘQ<ꢇXꢒꢛ  
?$[ꢌ$ꢇ\ꢃꢈ$ꢊꢎꢔꢐꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢍꢃꢈꢓꢃꢏꢇꢈꢎꢏꢇꢒꢃ$@ꢈꢎꢃꢎꢋꢓꢁꢇ_'[$ꢊꢉꢈꢋꢃꢏ  
ꢓꢔꢂꢂꢆꢇꢕꢈꢓꢅꢊꢅꢌꢆꢂꢆꢋꢄ  
ꢛꢈ`ꢊ@'@ꢇ]ꢃꢂꢋꢖꢇꢌꢜꢇ#'ꢋꢇ?ꢋꢇ‚<ꢇ]ꢃꢔ$ꢃꢃꢐꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙ>ꢕ=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢛꢈ`ꢊ@'@ꢇ]ꢃꢂꢋꢖꢇꢌꢜꢇ#'ꢋꢇ?ꢋꢇꢚQꢇ]ꢃꢔ$ꢃꢃꢐꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢑ>ꢙ=ꢕJꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢛꢈ`ꢊ@'@ꢇXꢊꢂꢇꢀꢌꢇXꢊꢔꢖꢋꢇꢌꢜꢇ\ꢓꢈꢏꢃ>ꢍꢋꢈꢎꢏꢈ$ꢏꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙ<ꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢛꢈ`ꢊ@'@ꢇXꢊꢂꢇꢀꢌꢇ_ꢃꢜꢋꢇꢌꢜꢇ\ꢓꢈꢏꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢖꢅꢗꢏꢋꢈꢑꢇꢍꢁꢃꢒꢅꢂꢆꢁꢇ  
ꢆꢓꢌꢌ$ꢇꢀꢌꢇꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇ*ꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙꢚꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇꢝꢊꢏꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ QQꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇ]ꢃꢂꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢑ€ꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇꢀꢖꢊꢉ|ꢎꢃꢐꢐꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕ>ꢕ=ꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
]ꢊꢐꢋꢈꢎꢉꢃꢇꢆ$ꢌꢎꢋꢇꢌꢜꢇꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇꢀꢌꢇ#ꢃꢎꢋꢃ$ꢇƒꢜꢇ\ꢓꢈꢏꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕJꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
]ꢊꢐꢋꢈꢎꢉꢃꢇꢆ$ꢌꢎꢋꢇꢌꢜꢇꢀꢈ[ꢓꢃꢇꢀꢌꢇ\ꢓꢈꢏꢃꢇ?ꢋꢇꢛꢈ`ꢊ@'@ꢇ#'ꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕꢕ>ꢕ=ꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
-3-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
ꢘꢋꢇꢌꢋꢈꢑꢇꢍꢁꢃꢒꢅꢂꢆꢁꢇ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ #ꢈ@ꢓꢌꢉ|ꢇꢀ>ꢍꢖꢈꢂꢃꢏꢇꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇ+=*]ꢒꢅꢇꢍꢊꢏꢃꢇꢒꢓꢈꢋꢃꢐ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇ_ꢃꢎꢔꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙꢚ>ꢕ=ꢚꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇꢝꢊꢏꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙ>ꢕ=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇ*ꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢑ>ꢕ=ꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇXꢈꢊꢓꢇꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢍ'ꢈ$ꢃꢇꢍꢋꢃꢃꢓꢇꢀ'[ꢊꢎꢔ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇXꢈꢊꢓꢇ_ꢃꢎꢔꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ Q‚>Q=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇXꢈꢊꢓꢇꢝꢊꢏꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇXꢈꢊꢓꢇ*ꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕ>Q=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢀꢆꢂꢋꢃꢈꢙꢅꢔꢕꢋꢈꢑꢇꢍꢁꢃꢒꢅꢂꢆꢁꢇ  
ꢛꢊꢋꢃ$ꢇ„ꢈ'ꢔꢃꢇꢍꢓꢌꢋꢇꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢀ>ꢍꢓꢌꢋ  
ꢛꢊꢋꢃ$ꢇ„ꢈ'ꢔꢃꢇꢍꢓꢌꢋꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇꢝꢊꢏꢋꢖꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙ=ꢚꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢛꢊꢋꢃ$ꢇ„ꢈ'ꢔꢃꢇꢍꢓꢌꢋꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢇ*ꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙ=ꢘꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢓꢁꢇꢄꢂꢃꢔꢌꢂꢆꢁꢇ  
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#ꢈ[ꢊꢎꢃꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢒ$ꢃ>ꢆꢌ$@ꢃꢏꢇꢍꢋꢃꢃꢓ  
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ꢆꢃꢎꢉꢃꢇ?ꢐꢐꢃ@[ꢓꢁꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢍꢋꢃꢃꢓꢇ+ꢊꢋꢖꢇ*]ꢒꢅꢇꢍꢊꢏꢃꢇꢒꢓꢈꢋꢃꢐ  
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ꢛꢊꢋꢃ$ꢇ„'ꢈꢔꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ?ꢓ'@ꢊꢎ'@  
„'ꢈ$ꢏꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢍꢋꢃꢃꢓꢇꢈꢎꢏꢇ#ꢓꢃꢈ$ꢇꢒꢓꢈꢐꢋꢊꢉ  
ꢚꢂꢛꢋꢃꢈꢜꢋꢏꢅꢂꢋꢐꢈꢑꢇꢍꢁꢃꢒꢅꢂꢆꢁꢇ  
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Z'@[ꢃ$ꢇꢌꢜꢇ]'ꢐꢋꢇꢒꢌ$ꢋꢐꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕ  
]'ꢐꢋꢇꢒꢌ$ꢋꢇꢍꢊYꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢚꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢛꢌ[ꢊꢓꢃꢇ\ꢈꢐꢃꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ]ꢑ<Q€?  
ꢝꢃꢁꢐꢔꢌꢂꢈ!ꢆꢒꢋꢇꢄꢆꢁꢇꢄ  
ꢝꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢚ<ꢚꢇꢓ[ꢐꢄ  
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ꢆꢌꢌꢋꢂ$ꢊꢎꢋꢇ}_ꢃꢎꢔꢋꢖꢇ`ꢇꢝꢊꢏꢋꢖ~ꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢑ<ꢇ`ꢇꢑꢕ>ꢕ=ꢑꢇꢊꢎꢄ  
ꢉꢛꢆꢊꢊꢆꢇꢕꢈ!ꢆꢒꢋꢇꢄꢆꢁꢇꢄ  
ꢓꢅꢃꢂꢁꢇꢈ"#  
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ꢝꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢙJꢘꢇꢓ[ꢐꢄ  
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ꢝꢃꢊꢔꢖꢋꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄꢄ ꢕꢘꢇꢓ[ꢐꢄ  
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-4-  
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k_\dj\cm\jꢀ[fꢀefkꢀ\c`d`eXk\ꢀ[Xe^\iꢀXe[ꢀXi\ꢀefkꢀXꢀjlYjk`klk\ꢀ]fiꢀgifg\iꢀXZZ`[\ekꢀgi\m\ek`feꢀd\X$  
jli\jÇk_`jꢀi\jgfej`Y`c`kpꢀ`jꢀlck`dXk\cpꢀlgꢀkfꢀk_\ꢀfg\iXkfiꢁ  
@e[`ZXk\jꢀXeꢀ`dd`e\ekcpꢀ_XqXi[fljꢀj`klXk`feꢀn_`Z_#ꢀ`]ꢀefkꢀXmf`[\[#ꢀ  
N@CCꢀi\jlckꢀ`eꢀ[\Xk_ꢀfiꢀj\i`fljꢀ`ealip%  
@e[`ZXk\jꢀXꢀgfk\ek`Xccpꢀ_XqXi[fljꢀj`klXk`feꢀn_`Z_#ꢀ`]ꢀefkꢀXmf`[\[#ꢀ  
:FLC;ꢀi\jlckꢀ`eꢀ[\Xk_ꢀfiꢀj\i`fljꢀ`ealip%  
@e[`ZXk\jꢀXꢀgfk\ek`Xccpꢀ_XqXi[fljꢀj`klXk`feꢀn_`Z_#ꢀ`]ꢀefkꢀXmf`[\[#ꢀ  
D8Pꢀi\jlckꢀ`eꢀd`efiꢀfiꢀdf[\iXk\ꢀ`ealip%  
K_`jꢀjpdYfcꢀ`jꢀlj\[ꢀkfꢀXc\ikꢀk_\ꢀlj\iꢀkfꢀlj\]lcꢀ`e]fidXk`feꢀXYflkꢀ  
gifg\iꢀfg\iXk`feꢀf]ꢀk_\ꢀ\hl`gd\ek#ꢀXe[&fiꢀXꢀj`klXk`feꢀk_XkꢀdXpꢀ  
ZXlj\ꢀ[XdX^\ꢀkfꢀk_\ꢀdXZ_`e\ip%  
EFK@:<  
Standard Machinery Safety Instructions  
JkXe[Xi[ꢀDXZ_`e\ipꢀJX]\kpꢀ@ejkilZk`fej  
FNE<IËJꢀD8EL8C% Read and understand this  
owner’s manual BEFORE using machine.  
Untrained users can be seriously hurt.  
?<8I@E>ꢀGIFK<:K@FE% Always wear hearing  
protection when operating or observing  
loud machinery. Extended exposure to this  
noise without hearing protection can cause  
permanent hearing loss.  
<P<ꢀGIFK<:K@FE% Always wear ANSI-approved  
safety glasses or a face shield when operating  
or observing machinery to reduce the risk of  
eye injury or blindness from flying particles.  
Everyday eyeglasses are not approved safety  
glasses.  
D<EK8Cꢀ8C<IKE<JJ% Be mentally alert when  
running machinery. Never operate under the  
influence of drugs or alcohol, when tired, or  
when distracted.  
?8Q8I;FLJꢀ;LJK% Dust created while using  
machinery may cause cancer, birth defects,  
or long-term respiratory damage. Be aware  
of dust hazards associated with workpiece  
materials, and always wear a NIOSH-approved  
respirator to reduce your risk.  
;@J:FEE<:K@E>ꢀGFN<IꢀJLGGCP% Always  
disconnect machine from power supply before  
servicing, adjusting, or changing cutting tools  
(bits, blades, cutters, etc.). Make sure switch  
is in OFF position before reconnecting to avoid  
an unexpected or unintentional start.  
N<8I@E>ꢀGIFG<Iꢀ8GG8I<C% Do not wear  
clothing, apparel, or jewelry that can become  
entangled in moving parts. Always tie back  
or cover long hair. Wear non-slip footwear to  
avoid accidental slips which could cause a loss  
of workpiece control.  
;8E><IFLJꢀ<EM@IFED<EKJ% Do not use  
machinery in wet or rainy locations, cluttered  
areas, around flammables, or in poorly-lit  
areas. Keep work area clean, dry, and well-  
lighted to minimize risk of injury.  
-6-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
8GGIFM<;ꢀFG<I8K@FE% Untrained operators  
can be seriously hurt by machinery. Only  
allow trained or properly supervised people  
to use machine. When machine is not being  
used, disconnect power, remove switch keys,  
or lock-out machine to prevent unauthorized  
use—especially around children. Make  
workshop kid proof!  
JK89C<ꢀD8:?@E<% Unexpected movement during  
operations greatly increases the risk of injury  
and loss of control. Verify machines are  
stable/secure and mobile bases (if used) are  
locked before starting.  
=FI:@E>ꢀD8:?@E<IP% Do not force machine. It  
will do the job safer and better at the rate for  
which it was designed.  
FECPꢀLJ<ꢀ8Jꢀ@EK<E;<;% Only use machine for  
its intended purpose. Never modify or alter  
machine for a purpose not intended by the  
manufacturer or serious injury may result!  
8NBN8I;ꢀGFJ@K@FEJ% Keep proper footing and  
balance at all times when operating machine.  
Do not overreach! Avoid awkward hand  
positions that make workpiece control difficult  
or increase the risk of accidental injury.  
LJ<ꢀI<:FDD<E;<;ꢀ8::<JJFI@<J% Consult  
this owner’s manual or the manufacturer for  
recommended accessories. Using improper  
accessories will increase the risk of serious  
injury.  
LE8KK<E;<;ꢀFG<I8K@FE% Never leave machine  
running while unattended. Turn machine off  
and ensure all moving parts completely stop  
before walking away.  
:?@C;I<Eꢀꢂꢀ9PJK8E;<IJ% Keep children and  
bystanders a safe distance away from work  
area. Stop using machine if children or  
bystanders become a distraction.  
D8@EK8@EꢀN@K?ꢀ:8I<% Follow all maintenance  
instructions and lubrication schedules to  
keep machine in good working condition. An  
improperly maintained machine may increase  
the risk of serious injury.  
I<DFM<ꢀ8;ALJK@E>ꢀKFFCJ% Never leave  
adjustment tools, chuck keys, wrenches, etc.  
in or on machine—especially near moving  
parts. Verify removal before starting!  
:?<:Bꢀ;8D8><;ꢀG8IKJ% Regularly inspect  
machine for damaged parts, loose bolts,  
mis-adjusted or mis-aligned parts, binding,  
or any other conditions that may affect safe  
operation. Always repair or replace damaged  
parts, wires, cords, or plugs before operating  
machine.  
J<:LI@E>ꢀNFIBG@<:<% When required, use  
clamps or vises to secure workpiece. A secured  
workpiece protects hands and frees both of  
them to operate the machine.  
=<<;ꢀ;@I<:K@FE% Unless otherwise noted, feed  
work against the rotation of blades or cutters.  
Feeding in the same direction of rotation may  
pull your hand into the cut.  
D8@EK8@EꢀGFN<Iꢀ:FI;J%ꢀWhen disconnecting  
cord-connected machines from power, grab  
and pull the plug—NOT the cord. Pulling the  
cord may damage the wires inside. Do not  
handle the cord/plug with wet hands. Avoid  
cord damage by keeping it away from heated  
surfaces, high traffic areas, harsh chemicals,  
and wet or damp locations.  
>L8I;Jꢀꢂꢀ:FM<IJ% Guards and covers can  
protect you from accidental contact with  
moving parts or flying debris. Make sure  
they are properly installed, undamaged, and  
working correctly before using machine.  
<OG<I@<E:@E>ꢀ;@==@:LCK@<J% If at any time you  
are experiencing difficulties performing the  
intended operation, stop using the machine!  
Contact our Technical Support for help at  
(360) 734-3482.  
E<M<IꢀJK8E;ꢀFEꢀD8:?@E<% Serious injury or  
accidental contact with cutting tool may  
occur if machine is tipped. Machine may be  
damaged.  
-7-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Additional Safety for Table Saws  
HAND POSITIONING. Touching a spinning  
saw blade will cause serious laceration or  
amputation injuries. Never purposely touch  
a saw blade during operation. Always keep  
hands/fingers out of the blade path; place  
them where they cannot slip into the blade  
accidentally. Never reach around, behind, or  
over the blade.  
FEEDING WORKPIECE. Feeding the workpiece  
incorrectly will increase risk of kickback. Never  
start the saw with a workpiece touching the  
blade; allow the blade to reach full speed  
before cutting. Only feed the workpiece against  
the direction of blade rotation. Always use  
some type of guide (fence, miter gauge, sliding  
table or sled, etc.) to feed the workpiece in  
a straight line. Never back a workpiece out of  
a cut or try to move it backwards or sideways  
after starting a cut. Feed cuts all the way  
through to completion. Never perform any  
operation “freehand” (making a cut without  
using a fence, miter gauge, or other guide).  
BLADE GUARD. Operating the saw with the  
blade guard removed greatly increases the risk  
of severe laceration or amputation injuries  
from accidental blade contact. Use the  
blade guard for all “through cuts”. A through  
cut is an operation where the blade cuts  
completely through the top of the workpiece.  
Make sure the blade guard is installed and  
adjusted correctly; promptly repair or replace  
it if damaged. Always re-install blade guard  
immediately after operations that require its  
removal.  
PUSH STICKS/BLOCKS. Use push sticks or push  
blocks whenever possible to keep your hands  
farther away from the blade while cutting. In  
the event of an accident, these devices will  
often take damage that would have happened  
to hands/fingers.  
RIVING KNIFE. The riving knife keeps the kerf  
open behind the blade, which reduces the  
risk of kickback. Use the riving knife for all  
“non-through cuts”. A non-through cut is  
an operation where the blade does not cut  
through the top of the workpiece. Make sure  
the riving knife is aligned and positioned  
correctly; and promptly repair or replace it  
if damaged. Using the riving knife incorrectly  
will increase the risk of kickback or accidental  
blade contact.  
CUT-OFF PIECES. Never use your hands to move  
cut-offs away from the blade while the saw is  
running. If a cut-off becomes trapped between  
the blade and table insert, turn the saw OFF  
and allow the blade to completely stop before  
removing it.  
BLADE ADJUSTMENTS. Adjusting the blade  
height or tilt during operation increases the  
risk of crashing the blade and sending metal  
fragments flying with deadly force at the  
operator or bystanders. Only adjust the blade  
height and tilt when the saw is turned OFF and  
the blade is completely stopped.  
KICKBACK. Kickback occurs when the saw  
blade ejects the workpiece back toward the  
operator. Know how to reduce the risk of  
kickback, and learn how to protect yourself if  
it does occur.  
DAMAGED SAW BLADES. Never use blades that  
have been dropped or otherwise damaged.  
Damaged blades can fly apart and strike the  
operator with shards of metal.  
FENCE. Using or adjusting the fence incorrectly  
will increase risk of kickback. Make sure the  
fence remains properly adjusted and parallel  
with the blade. Always lock the fence in place  
before operation.  
DADO AND RABBET OPERATIONS. DO NOT  
attempt dado or rabbeting operations without  
first reading those sections in this manual.  
Dado and rabbeting operations require special  
attention because they must be performed  
with the blade guard removed.  
-8-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
•
The splitter or riving knife maintains the kerf  
in the workpiece, reducing the chance of  
kickback. Always use the riving knife for all  
non-through operations, unless a dado blade  
is installed. Always use the splitter with the  
blade guard for all through cuts.  
Kickback  
Kickback is a high speed expulsion of the  
workpiece from the saw blade, which occurs when  
the saw blade grabs the workpiece instead of cuts  
it.  
•
•
Feed cuts through to completion. Anytime  
you stop feeding a workpiece in the middle  
of a cut, the chance of kickback is greatly  
increased.  
The danger of kickback is that it happens faster  
than the operator can react, so if the operator’s  
hands are in a bad position, they could get pulled  
into the blade. Also, kickback can cause serious  
impact injuries if the operator is struck by the  
ejected workpiece.  
Keep the blade guard installed and in  
good working order. Only remove it when  
performing non-through cuts and immediately  
re-install the blade guard when finished.  
Remember, always use the riving knife for all  
non-through operations, unless a dado blade  
is installed.  
The lack of warning and high risk of injury from  
kickback makes it extremely important to: (1)  
avoid doing anything that will increase the risk  
of occurrence, and (2) work carefully to protect  
yourself in case it does occur.  
•
Make multiple, shallow passes when  
performing a non-through cut. Making a deep  
non-through cut will greatly increase the  
chance of kickback.  
Avoiding Kickback  
•
DO NOT cut a workpiece that is excessively  
warped or twisted. The workpiece must be  
able to slide across the table and fence in a  
stable manner without any rocking, rotating,  
or shifting—if any of these movements occur  
during the cut, kickback will likely occur.  
Workpieces that have minor warping must  
be cut with the cupped-side down against  
the table; the edge of the workpiece that is  
placed against the fence must be straight or  
straightened with a jointer.  
Protecting Yourself from Kickback  
•
Stand to the side of the blade during every  
cut. If kickback does occur, the thrown  
workpiece usually travels directly in front of  
the blade.  
•
•
•
Wear safety glasses or a face shield. In the  
event of kickback, your eyes and face are the  
most vulnerable part of your body.  
•
•
Never attempt freehand cuts. Always use  
the rip fence or miter gauge to support  
the workpiece. If the workpiece is not fed  
parallel with the blade, kickback will likely  
occur.  
Never, for any reason, place your hand behind  
the blade. Should kickback occur, your hand  
will be pulled into the blade.  
Use a push stick to keep your hands farther  
away from the moving blade. If kickback  
occurs, the push stick will most likely take  
the damage that your hand would have  
received.  
Make sure the splitter or riving knife is  
aligned with the blade. A misaligned splitter  
or riving knife can cause the workpiece  
to catch or bind, increasing the chance of  
kickback. If you think that your splitter or  
riving knife is not aligned with the blade,  
check it immediately!  
•
Use featherboards or anti-kickback devices to  
prevent or slow down kickback.  
•
Ensure that the rip fence locks parallel with  
the blade; otherwise, the chances of kickback  
are extreme.  
-9-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
ELECTRICAL  
Circuit Requirements  
This machine must be connected to the correct size and  
type of power supply circuit, or fire or electrical damage  
may occur. Read through this section to determine if an  
adequate power supply circuit is available. If a correct  
circuit is not available, a qualified electrician MUST install  
one before you can connect the machine to power.  
K_\ꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀdljkꢀY\ꢀgifg\icpꢀj\kꢀlgꢀ  
Y\]fi\ꢀ `kꢀ `jꢀ jX]\ꢀ kfꢀ fg\iXk\%ꢀ ;Fꢀ EFKꢀ  
Zfee\Zkꢀ k_`jꢀ dXZ_`e\ꢀ kfꢀ k_\ꢀ gfn\iꢀ  
jfliZ\ꢀ lek`cꢀ `ejkilZk\[ꢀ kfꢀ [fꢀ cXk\iꢀ `eꢀ  
k_`jꢀdXelXc%  
A power supply circuit includes all electrical equipment  
between the breaker box or fuse panel in the building  
and the machine. The power supply circuit used for  
this machine must be sized to safely handle the full-  
load current drawn from the machine for an extended  
period of time. (If this machine is connected to a circuit  
protected by fuses, use a time delay fuse marked D.)  
Full-Load Current Rating  
The full-load current rating is the amperage a machine  
draws at 100% of the rated output power. On machines  
with multiple motors, this is the amperage drawn by the  
largest motor or sum of all motors and electrical devices  
that might operate at one time during normal operations.  
@eZfii\Zkcpꢀ n`i`e^ꢀ fiꢀ ^ifle[`e^ꢀ k_`jꢀ  
dXZ_`e\ꢀZXeꢀZXlj\ꢀ\c\ZkifZlk`fe#ꢀ]`i\#ꢀ  
fiꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀ[XdX^\%ꢀKfꢀi\[lZ\ꢀk_`jꢀi`jb#ꢀ  
fecpꢀ Xꢀ hlXc`]`\[ꢀ \c\Zki`Z`Xeꢀ fiꢀ j\im`Z\ꢀ  
g\ijfee\cꢀ j_flc[ꢀ [fꢀ Xepꢀ i\hl`i\[ꢀ  
\c\Zki`ZXcꢀnfibꢀ]fiꢀk_`jꢀdXZ_`e\%  
Full-Load Current Rating at 220V....................8 Amps  
Full-Load Current Rating at 110V .................. 16 Amps  
Circuit Requirements for 220V (Prewired)  
This machine is prewired to operate on a 220V power  
supply circuit that has a verified ground and meets the  
following requirements:  
EFK@:<ꢀ  
K_\ꢀZ`iZl`kꢀi\hl`i\d\ekjꢀc`jk\[ꢀ`eꢀk_`jꢀ  
dXelXcꢀ Xggcpꢀ kfꢀ Xꢀ [\[`ZXk\[ꢀ Z`iZl`kÇ  
n_\i\ꢀfecpꢀfe\ꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀn`ccꢀY\ꢀilee`e^ꢀ  
Xkꢀ Xꢀ k`d\%ꢀ @]ꢀ k_`jꢀ dXZ_`e\ꢀ n`ccꢀ Y\ꢀ  
Zfee\Zk\[ꢀ kfꢀ Xꢀ j_Xi\[ꢀ Z`iZl`kꢀ n_\i\ꢀ  
dlck`gc\ꢀ dXZ_`e\jꢀ n`ccꢀ Y\ꢀ ilee`e^ꢀ Xkꢀ  
k_\ꢀ jXd\ꢀ k`d\#ꢀ Zfejlckꢀ Xꢀ hlXc`]`\[ꢀ  
\c\Zki`Z`Xeꢀkfꢀ\ejli\ꢀk_Xkꢀk_\ꢀZ`iZl`kꢀ`jꢀ  
gifg\icpꢀj`q\[ꢀ]fiꢀjX]\ꢀfg\iXk`fe%  
Circuit Type ...............220V/240V, 60 Hz, Single-Phase  
Circuit Size .............................................20 Amps  
Plug/Receptacle .................................... NEMA 6-20  
Circuit Requirements for 110V  
This machine can be converted to operate on a 110V  
power supply (details about voltage conversion can be  
found later in this manual). The 110V power supply circuit  
must have a verified ground and meet the requirements  
that follow:  
Circuit Type ............... 110V/120V, 60 Hz, Single-Phase  
Circuit Size .............................................20 Amps  
Plug/Receptacle .................................... NEMA 5-20  
-10-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Grounding Requirements  
This machine MUST be grounded. In the event of certain  
types of malfunctions or breakdowns, grounding provides  
a path of least resistance for electric current to travel—in  
order to reduce the risk of electric shock.  
K_\ꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀdljkꢀY\ꢀgifg\icpꢀj\kꢀlgꢀ  
Y\]fi\ꢀ `kꢀ `jꢀ jX]\ꢀ kfꢀ fg\iXk\%ꢀ ;Fꢀ EFKꢀ  
Zfee\Zkꢀ k_`jꢀ dXZ_`e\ꢀ kfꢀ k_\ꢀ gfn\iꢀ  
jfliZ\ꢀ lek`cꢀ `ejkilZk\[ꢀ kfꢀ [fꢀ cXk\iꢀ `eꢀ  
k_`jꢀdXelXc%  
Improper connection of the equipment-grounding wire will  
increase the risk of electric shock. The wire with green  
insulation (with/without yellow stripes) is the equipment-  
grounding wire. If repair or replacement of the power  
cord or plug is necessary, do not connect the equipment-  
grounding wire to a live (current carrying) terminal.  
GROUNDED  
6-20 RECEPTACLE  
Current Carrying Prongs  
Check with a qualified electrician or service personnel  
if you do not understand these grounding requirements,  
or if you are in doubt about whether the tool is  
properly grounded. If you ever notice that a cord or  
plug is damaged or worn, disconnect it from power, and  
immediately replace it with a new one.  
6-20 PLUG  
Grounding Prong  
Figure 2. NEMA 6-20 plug & receptacle.  
For 220V Connection (Prewired)  
GROUNDED  
This machine is equipped with a power cord that has an  
equipment-grounding wire and NEMA 6-20 grounding plug.  
The plug must only be inserted into a matching receptacle  
(see Figure) that is properly installed and grounded in  
accordance with local codes and ordinances.  
5-20 RECEPTACLE  
Hot  
Neutral  
5-20 PLUG  
For 110V Connection (Must be Rewired)  
A NEMA 5-20 plug has a grounding prong that must be  
attached to the equipment-grounding wire inside the  
included power cord. The plug must only be inserted  
into a matching receptacle (see Figure) that is properly  
installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes  
and ordinances.  
Grounding Prong  
Figure 3. NEMA 5-20 plug & receptacle.  
;Fꢀ EFKꢀ df[`]pꢀ k_\ꢀ gifm`[\[ꢀ gcl^ꢀ fiꢀ  
lj\ꢀ Xeꢀ X[Xgk\iꢀ `]ꢀ k_\ꢀ gcl^ꢀ n`ccꢀ efkꢀ ]`kꢀ  
pfliꢀ i\Z\gkXZc\%ꢀ K_`jꢀ `jꢀ Xeꢀ `e[`ZXk`feꢀ  
k_Xkꢀ pfliꢀ gfn\iꢀ jlggcpꢀ Z`iZl`kꢀ [f\jꢀ  
EFKꢀ d\\kꢀ k_\ꢀ i\hl`i\d\ekjꢀ ]fiꢀ k_\ꢀ  
dXZ_`e\2ꢀ _Xm\ꢀ Xeꢀ \c\Zki`Z`Xeꢀ `ejkXccꢀ  
k_\ꢀ Zfii\Zkꢀ gfn\iꢀ jlggcpꢀ Z`iZl`k%ꢀ @]ꢀ  
k_\ꢀ dXZ_`e\ꢀ dljkꢀ Y\ꢀ i\Zfee\Zk\[ꢀ ]fiꢀ  
lj\ꢀ feꢀ Xꢀ [`]]\i\ekꢀ kpg\ꢀ f]ꢀ \c\Zki`Zꢀ  
Z`iZl`k#ꢀ k_\ꢀ i\Zfee\Zk`feꢀ j_flc[ꢀ Y\ꢀ  
dX[\ꢀ Ypꢀ Xꢀ hlXc`]`\[ꢀ \c\Zki`Z`Xeꢀ fiꢀ  
j\im`Z\ꢀg\ijfee\c2ꢀX]k\iꢀi\Zfee\Zk`fe#ꢀ  
k_\ꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀdljkꢀZfdgcpꢀn`k_ꢀXccꢀcfZXcꢀ  
Zf[\jꢀXe[ꢀfi[`eXeZ\j%  
Extension Cords  
We do not recommend using an extension cord with this  
machine. Extension cords cause voltage drop, which may  
damage electrical components and shorten motor life.  
Voltage drop increases with longer extension cords and  
the gauge smaller gauge sizes (higher gauge numbers  
indicate smaller sizes).  
Any extension cord used with this machine must contain a  
ground wire, match the required plug and receptacle, and  
meet the following requirements:  
Minimum Gauge Size at 220V ...................... 12 AWG  
Maximum Length (Shorter is Better).................50 ft.  
-11-  
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Model W1824 10" Hybrid Table Saw  
Voltage Conversion  
The Model 1824 is prewired for a 220V power supply, but  
it can be rewired to operate on a 110V power supply. To  
reduce the risk of electrocution, machine damage, or an  
electrical fire, this procedure must be performed by an  
electrician or qualified service personnel. The procedure  
involves moving terminal jumpers inside the motor  
junction box, replacing the machine circuit breaker, and  
replacing the plug on the power cord.  
Motor Prewired  
for 220V  
Loosen  
These  
Screws  
The require machine circuit breaker can be purchased  
from an authorized Shop Fox dealer. The required  
plug and receptacle can be purchased from your local  
hardware store or it may be provided by your electrician.  
<gdjcY  
Center Jumpers  
Items Needed  
Qty  
Figure 4. Locations of screws to be  
Phillips Screwdriver #2.........................................1  
NEMA 5-20 Plug..................................................1  
Circuit Breaker 20A (Part No. X1824204-1).................1  
loosened.  
Motor Rewired  
for 110V  
To convert the table saw to 110V, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT TABLE SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Open the motor junction box, then loosen the four  
screws indicated in Figure 4.  
3. Remove the two center jumpers (they are stacked  
together), reposition them as shown in Figure 5,  
then re-tighten the four screws loosened in Step 2.  
<gdjcY  
New Jumper Locations  
4. Close and secure the motor junction box.  
Figure 5. Relocated jumpers.  
5. Remove the START/STOP switch box from the switch  
mounting plate.  
6. Replace the pre-installed 10A circuit breaker  
(see Figure 6) with the 20A circuit breaker, then  
re-install the switch box.  
7. Replace the existing power cord plug with a NEMA  
5-20 plug, according to the instructions and wiring  
diagram provided by the plug manufacturer.  
Circuit  
Breaker  
Figure 6. Location of switch circuit  
This manual was current at the time of printing.  
However, if the motor wiring diagram provided on  
the inside of the junction box cover differs from this  
manual, always use the junction box cover wiring  
diagram. This should reflect any changes that may  
have occurred after printing.  
breaker.  
-12-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
SETUP  
Unpacking  
This machine has been carefully packaged for safe  
transportation. If you notice the machine has been  
damaged during shipping, please contact your authorized  
Shop Fox dealer immediately.  
Needed for Setup  
The following are needed to complete the setup process,  
but are not included with the machine:  
B\\gꢀ dXZ_`e\ꢀ [`jZfee\Zk\[ꢀ ]ifdꢀ  
gfn\iꢀlek`cꢀ`ejkilZk\[ꢀfk_\in`j\%  
Description  
Qty  
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Safety Glasses for Each Person..........................1  
Degreaser or Solvent for Cleaning................Varies  
Rags for Cleaning....................................Varies  
Straightedge................................................1  
Level.........................................................1  
Dust Collection System ...................................1  
4" Dust Hose................................................1  
4" Hose Clamp..............................................1  
Another Person for Lifting ...............................1  
Needle Nose Pliers ........................................1  
Wrench or Socket 17mm .................................1  
Wrench or Socket 14mm .................................1  
Wrench or Socket 10mm .................................1  
Adjustable Wrench ........................................1  
The Model W1824 is a heavy machine.  
Serious personal injury may occur if  
safe moving methods are not used. To  
be safe, get assistance and use power  
equipment to move the shipping crate  
and machine.  
-13-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Inventory  
The following is a description of the main components  
shipped with the Model W1824. Lay the components out  
to inventory them.  
Efk\1 If you can't find an item on this list, check the  
mounting location on the machine or examine the  
packaging materials carefully. Occasionally we pre-install  
certain components for safer shipping.  
A
Shipping Inventory: (Figures 7–10)  
Qty  
Figure 7. Cabinet assembly.  
A. Cabinet Assembly..........................................1  
B. Extension Wings............................................2  
C. Saw Blade 10" x 40T.......................................1  
D. Wrench 7⁄16" x 13mm ....................................1  
E. Arbor Wrench 24mm ......................................1  
F. Access Door.................................................1  
G. Blade Guard Assembly & Riving Knife...........1 Each  
H. Push Stick...................................................1  
I. Handwheel Handles .......................................2  
J. Miter Gauge ................................................1  
K. Hex Wrench 6-Piece Set 2.5-8mm ......................1  
L. Dado Table Insert..........................................1  
M. Fence Rail Tube 58" w/Scale ............................1  
N. Rear Rail 53" (6-Holes)....................................1  
O. Front Rail 53" (6-Holes)...................................1  
P. Fence Assembly............................................1  
Q. Extension Table ............................................1  
B
Figure 8. Extension wings.  
F
C
Hardware (Not Shown)  
Qty  
E
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cap Screws M5-.8 x 12 (Mag Switch) ...................2  
D
Lock Washers 5mm (Mag Switch) .......................2  
Flat Washers 5mm (Mag Switch) ........................2  
Flat Head Screws M8-1.25 x 35 (Front Rail/Tables)..6  
Flat Washers 8mm (Front Rail/Tables).................8  
Lock Washers 8mm (Front Rail/Tables) ................6  
Hex Nuts M8-1.25 (Front Rail/Tables)..................6  
Cap Screws M6-1 x 16 (Front Rail/Tube)...............5  
Flat Washers 6mm (Front Rail/Tube)...................5  
Lock Washers (Front Rail/Tube).........................5  
Hex Bolts M10-1.5 x 25 (Rear Rail/Table) .............2  
Flat Washers 10mm (Rear Rail/Table)..................2  
Lock Washers 10mm (Rear Rail/Table).................2  
Hex Bolts M8-1.25 x 35 (Rear Rail/Wing/Ext Table) .4  
Hex Nuts M8-1.25 (Rear Rail/Wing/Ext Table)........4  
Flat Washers 8mm (Rear Rail/Wing/Ext Table).......8  
Lock Washers 8mm (Rear Rail/Wing/Ext Table) ......4  
G
J
L
H
I
K
Figure 9. Small components.  
M
N
O
P
Q
Figure 10. Fence components.  
-14-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Machine Placement  
Cleaning Machine  
The table and other unpainted parts of your  
table saw are coated with a waxy grease that  
protects them from corrosion during shipment.  
Clean this grease off with a solvent cleaner or  
citrus-based degreaser. DO NOT use chlorine-  
based solvents such as brake parts cleaner or  
acetone—if you happen to splash some onto a  
painted surface, you will ruin the finish.  
›ꢀ =cffiꢀCfX[1 This machine distributes a  
heavy load in a small footprint. Some  
residential floors may require additional  
bracing to support both machine and  
operator.  
›ꢀ Nfib`e^ꢀ:c\XiXeZ\j1 Consider existing and  
anticipated needs, size of material to be  
processed through the machine, and space  
for auxiliary stands, work tables or other  
machinery when establishing a location for  
your table saw.  
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›ꢀ C`^_k`e^1 Lighting should be bright enough  
to eliminate shadow and prevent eye strain.  
›ꢀ <c\Zki`ZXc1ꢀElectrical circuits must be  
dedicated or large enough to handle  
amperage requirements. Outlets must be  
located near each machine, so power or  
extension cords are clear of high-traffic  
areas. Follow local electrical codes for  
proper installation of new lighting, outlets,  
or circuits.  
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-15-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Assembly  
Assembly consists of installing minor components, the  
extension wings and table, fence rails, fence, and blade  
guard.  
Shipping Brace  
To assemble the table saw, do these steps:  
1. Remove the shipping brace shown in Figure 11, then  
re-install the fasteners. Save the shipping brace for  
later machine transport.  
2. Thoroughly clean the heavy-duty rust preventative  
off the gears inside the cabinet and coat them  
with an appropriate metal protectant (refer to  
Lubrication on Page 55 for the location of gears).  
Figure 11. Location of the shipping brace.  
3. Pull the switch out of the cabinet cavity, then attach  
the access door by inserting the hinge pins into the  
hinge sockets shown in Figure 12.  
Access Door  
Hinge  
Sockets  
Figure 12. Access door attached.  
4. Install the handles on the handwheels (see  
Figure 13).  
Handle  
Figure 13. Handwheel handle installed.  
-16-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
5. Remove the (6) cap screws, flat washers, and lock  
washers from both sides of the main table.  
Extension Wings  
6. Inspect the extension wings and main table mating  
surfaces for burrs or foreign materials that may  
inhibit assembly.  
For a correct fit, the mating edges of the table and  
wings must be clean, smooth, and flat. If necessary,  
use a wire brush or file to remove any flashing,  
dings, or high spots.  
x6  
7. While a helper holds the extension wings in place,  
attach them to the main table with the (6) M10-1.5  
x 25 cap screws, 10mm lock washers, and 10mm flat  
washers removed in Step 5, as shown in Figure 14.  
Figure 14. Extension wings attached.  
8. Place a straightedge across the extension wings and  
main table to make sure that the combined table  
surface is flat.  
— If the combined table surface is flat, skip to  
Step 9.  
— If the outside end of the extension wing tilts  
down, place one or more strips of masking tape  
along the bottom edge of the main table to shim  
the end of the extension wing up (see Figure 15).  
— If the outside end of the extension wing tilts up,  
place one or more strips of masking tape along the  
top edge of the main table to shim the end of the  
extension wing down (see Figure 16).  
Note: After reinstalling wings, remove all excess  
masking tape with a razor blade.  
Figure 15. Masking tape location for  
shimming the wing up.  
Figure 16. Masking tape location for  
shimming the wing down.  
-17-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
9. Attach the front rail to the table and extension  
wings with (4) M8-1.25 x 35 flat head screws, 8mm  
flat washers, 8mm lock washers, and M8-1.25 hex  
nuts, as shown in Figure 17.  
:fjVa  
Note: Make sure the top of the rail is parallel with  
the table top surface along its entire length and  
below the miter slots before fully tightening the  
fasteners. This will ensure that the fence will ride  
evenly across the table top.  
x4  
10. Attach the rear rail to the table with (2) M10-1.5  
x 25 hex bolts, 10mm lock washers, and 10mm flat  
washers, as shown in Figure 18.  
Figure 17. Front rail attached parallel  
Note: As with the front rail, make sure the rear rail  
is parallel with the table top and below the miter  
slots before fully tightening the fasteners.  
with the table top.  
11. Secure the rear rail to the extension wings with (2)  
M8-1.25 x 35 hex bolts, (4) 8mm flat washers, (2)  
8mm lock washers, and (2) M8-1.25 hex nuts, as  
shown in Figure 18.  
x2  
x2  
Figure 18. Rear rail attached parallel with  
the table top.  
12. Install the extension table between the front and  
rear rails with (2) M8-1.25 x 35 hex bolts, (2)  
M8-1.25 x 35 flat head screws, (8) 8mm flat washers,  
(4) 8mm lock washers, and (4) M8-1.25 hex nuts, as  
shown in Figure 19. Finger tighten the fasteners for  
now.  
x2  
13. Place the straightedge across the main table, right  
wing, and extension table, make sure the extension  
table is even with other top surfaces, then fully  
tighten the fasteners.  
x2  
Figure 19. Extension table installed.  
-18-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
14. Attach the fence rail tube to the front rail with (5)  
M6-1 x 16 cap screws, 6mm flat washers, and 6mm  
lock washers, as shown in Figure 20. Finger tighten  
the fasteners for now.  
15. While standing in front of the fence rail tube, pull it  
toward you as far as possible, then fully tighten the  
fasteners installed in Step 14. This will help make  
sure there is enough room for the fence to slide.  
16. Install the blade as instructed in the Blade  
Installation procedure on Page 27.  
x5  
Figure 20. Fence rail tube attached.  
17. Place the fence assembly onto the fence rail tube,  
as shown in Figure 21.  
18. Perform the Miter Slot to Blade Parallelism  
procedure as instructed on Page 60.  
19. Perform the Fence Adjustments procedure as  
instructed on Page 65.  
If the table or fence is not properly aligned with the  
blade, the workpiece could bind during a cutting  
operation, which could result in kickback injuries.  
The miter slot and fence MUST be correctly aligned  
with the blade before continuing to Step 20.  
Figure 21. Fence assembly installed.  
20. Move the fence over so that it just touches the  
blade, and verify that the indicator line is directly  
over the zero line.  
— If you need to correct the position of the indicator  
line, loosen the screws on the pointer window,  
adjust it so that the line is over the zero line on  
the scale (see Figure 22), then re-tighten the  
screws.  
Cap Screws  
Indicator  
Line  
21. Install the blade guard as instructed in the Blade  
Guard Assembly procedure on Page 28.  
Pointer Window  
Figure 22. Fence pointer window  
alignment.  
-19-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
22. Attach the switch to the bottom left-hand side of  
the front rail using (2) M5-.8 x 12 cap screws, (2)  
5mm lock washers, and (2) 5mm flat washers (see  
Figure 23).  
Dust Collection  
Recommended CFM at Dust Port: ................400 CFM  
x2  
Do not confuse this CFM recommendation with the rating  
of the dust collector. To determine the CFM at the  
dust port, you must take into account many variables,  
including the CFM rating of the dust collector, the length  
of hose between the dust collector and the machine,  
the amount of branches or Y's, and the amount of other  
open lines throughout the system. Due to the numerous  
variables involved, we do not cover this calculation in  
this manual. If you are unsure of your system, consult an  
expert or purchase a good dust collection "how-to" book.  
Figure 23. Switch installed.  
DO NOT operate this machine without an adequate  
dust collection system. This machine creates  
substantial amounts of wood dust while operating.  
Failure to use a dust collection system can result in  
short and long-term respiratory illness.  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
Dust Collection System ........................................1  
Dust Hose 4" .....................................................1  
Hose Clamps 4"..................................................2  
To connect a dust hose to the table saw, do these  
steps:  
Figure 24. Dust hose secured to the table  
saw.  
1. Fit a 4" dust hose over the dust port, as shown in  
Figure 24, and secure it tightly in place with a hose  
clamp.  
2. Tug the hose to make sure it does not come off.  
Note: A tight fit is necessary for proper  
performance.  
Tip: To make the job of attaching the dust hose  
easier, we recommend using the Model W1038 Quick  
Disconnect (see Figure 25). This will be especially  
helpful if the table saw is mounted on a mobile  
base.  
Figure 25. Model W1038 Quick Disconnect.  
-20-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Test Run  
Once the assembly is complete, test run the machine to  
make sure it runs properly for regular operations.  
The test run consists of verifying the following: 1) The  
motor powers up and runs correctly, and 2) the safety  
disabling mechanism on the switch works correctly.  
If, during the test run, you cannot easily locate the source  
of an unusual noise or vibration, stop using the machine  
immediately, then review Troubleshooting on Page 72.  
If you still cannot remedy a problem, contact our Tech  
Support at (360) 734-3482 for assistance.  
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To test run the machine, do these steps:  
1. Make sure you understand the safety instructions  
at the beginning of the manual, and verify that the  
machine is set up properly.  
Pin  
ON/START  
Button  
2. Ensure all tools and objects used during setup are  
cleared away from the machine.  
OFF/STOP  
Paddle  
3. Connect the machine to the required power source  
(see Page 10).  
=`^li\ꢀ)-% Switch disabling pin inserted  
4. Verify that the machine is operating correctly by  
turning the machine FE.  
into ON button.  
— When operating correctly, the machine runs  
smoothly with little or no vibration or rubbing  
noises.  
Recommended  
Adjustments  
— Investigate and correct strange noises or vibrations  
before operating the machine further. Always  
disconnect the machine from power when  
For your convenience, the adjustments  
listed below have been performed at the  
factory and no further setup is required to  
operate this machine. However, because of  
the many variables involved with shipping,  
we recommend that you verify the  
investigating or correcting potential problems.  
5. Turn the machine F==.  
following adjustments to ensure that this  
saw cuts safely and accurately. Step-by-step  
instructions for these adjustments can be  
found in the SERVICE section.  
6. Insert the switch disabling pin through the green ON  
button, as shown in =`^li\ꢀ)-.  
7. Press the ON button to test the disabling feature on  
the switch.  
Adjustments that should be verified:  
— If the machine does not start, the switch disabling  
feature is working as designed.  
•
•
Blade tilt stop accuracy (Page 58).  
Spreader/riving knife alignment  
(Page 63).  
— If the machine starts, immediately stop it. The  
switch disabling feature is not working correctly.  
Call Tech Support for help.  
-21-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
OPERATIONS  
General  
This machine will perform many types of operations  
that are beyond the scope of this manual. Many of these  
operations can be dangerous or deadly if performed  
incorrectly.  
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f]ꢀjX]\kpꢀ^l`[\c`e\jꢀZXeꢀY\ꢀZfdgc\k\Ç  
\m\ipꢀ j_fgꢀ \em`ifed\ekꢀ `jꢀ [`]]\i\ek%ꢀ  
=X`cli\ꢀkfꢀ]fccfnꢀ^l`[\c`e\jꢀZflc[ꢀi\jlckꢀ  
`eꢀ j\i`fljꢀ g\ijfeXcꢀ `ealip#ꢀ [XdX^\ꢀ kfꢀ  
\hl`gd\ekꢀfiꢀgffiꢀnfibꢀi\jlckj%  
The instructions in this section are written with the  
understanding that the operator has the necessary  
knowledge and skills to operate this machine. If at any  
time you are experiencing difficulties performing any  
operation, stop using the machine!  
If you are an inexperienced operator, we strongly  
recommend that you read books or trade articles, or seek  
training from an experienced table saw operator before  
performing any unfamiliar operations. 8Yfm\ꢀXcc#ꢀpfliꢀ  
jX]\kpꢀj_flc[ꢀZfd\ꢀ]`ijkꢁ  
Basic Controls  
Use the following descriptions and refer to Figure 27 to  
gain an understanding of the basic controls of this table  
saw.  
READ and understand this entire  
manual before using this machine.  
Serious personal injury may occur if  
safety and operational information is  
not understood and followed. DO NOT  
risk your safety by not reading!  
A. Blade Height Handwheel & Lock. Adjusts the blade  
height. To set the blade height, loosen the lock knob  
in the center of the handwheel, turn the handwheel  
to set the blade height approximately 1⁄4" higher  
than the workpiece (for through cuts only), then  
re-tighten the lock knob.  
A
B. START/STOP Switch. Starts and stops the motor.  
The START button has a hole through it that  
accommodates a pin to disable the switch against  
unauthorized usage.  
C. Fence Lock. Secures the fence in place. After  
adjusting the fence to the desired width of cut, lock  
it in place by firmly pushing the fence lock down  
until it stops.  
D
B
C
D. Blade Tilt Handwheel & Lock. Adjusts the blade  
tilt. Loosen the lock knob in the center of the  
handwheel, turn the handwheel to position the blade  
at the desired angle, then re-tighten the lock knob.  
Figure 27. Model W1824 basic controls.  
-22-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Operation Overview Workpiece Inspection  
The purpose of this overview is to provide  
the novice machine operator with a basic  
understanding of how the machine is used during  
a typical operation, so the controls/components  
discussed later in this manual are easier to  
understand.  
Some workpieces are not safe to cut on this  
machine or may need to be modified before they  
can be safely cut.  
Before beginning the cutting operation, inspect  
all workpieces for the following:  
Due to the generic nature of this overview, it is  
not intended to be an instructional guide. To learn  
more about specific operations, read this entire  
manual, read "how to" books, and seek additional  
training from experienced machine operators.  
•
Material Type. This machine is intended  
for cutting natural and man-made wood  
products, laminate covered wood products,  
and some plastics. Cutting drywall or  
cementitious backer board creates extremely  
fine dust and may reduce the life of the  
motor bearings. This machine is NOT designed  
to cut metal, glass, stone, tile, etc.; cutting  
these materials with a table saw greatly  
increases the risk of injury and damage to the  
saw or blade.  
To complete a typical operation, the operator  
does the following:  
1. Examines the workpiece to make sure it is  
suitable for cutting.  
2. Adjusts the blade tilt, if necessary, to the  
•
Foreign Objects. Nails, staples, dirt,  
rocks and other foreign objects are often  
embedded in wood. While cutting, these  
objects can become dislodged and hit the  
operator, cause kickback, or break the blade,  
which might then fly apart. Always visually  
inspect your workpiece for these items. If  
they can’t be removed, DO NOT cut the  
workpiece.  
correct angle for the desired cut.  
3. For "Through Cuts," adjusts the blade height  
no more than 1⁄4" higher than the thickness of  
the workpiece.  
4. Adjusts the fence to the desired width of cut,  
then locks it in place.  
5. Checks the outfeed side of the machine  
for proper support and to make sure the  
workpiece can safely pass all the way through  
the blade without interference.  
•
Large/Loose Knots. Loose knots can become  
dislodged during the cutting operation.  
Large knots can cause kickback and machine  
damage. Choose workpieces that do not have  
large/loose knots or plan ahead to avoid  
cutting through them.  
6. Puts on safety glasses and a respirator.  
Locates push sticks/blocks if needed.  
•
•
•
Wet or “Green” Stock. Cutting wood  
with a moisture content over 20% causes  
unnecessary wear on the blades, increases  
the risk of kickback, and yields poor results.  
7. Starts the saw.  
8. Feeds the workpiece all the way through the  
blade while maintaining firm pressure on the  
workpiece against the table and fence, and  
keeping hands and fingers out of the blade  
path and away from the blade.  
Excessive Warping. Workpieces with  
excessive cupping, bowing, or twisting are  
dangerous to cut because they are unstable  
and may move unpredictably when being cut.  
9. Stops the machine immediately after the cut  
is complete.  
Minor Warping. Slightly cupped workpieces  
can be safely supported with the cupped  
side facing the table or fence; however,  
workpieces supported on the bowed side  
will rock during the cut, which could cause  
kickback.  
-23-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Non-Through & Through  
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Cuts  
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Non-Through Cuts  
A non-through cut is a sawing operation where the blade  
does not protrude above the top face of the wood stock,  
as shown in Figure 28.  
Examples of non-through cuts include dadoes and  
rabbets. Non-through cuts have a higher risk of injury  
from kickback because the blade guard must be removed.  
However, the riving knife MUST be installed because it  
still provides some protection. When making non-through  
cuts with a dado blade, do not attempt to cut the full  
depth in one pass. Instead, take multiple light passes to  
reduce the load on the blade. A dado blade smaller than  
10" will require removal of the riving knife, because the  
riving knife will be higher than the blade.  
Figure 28. Example of a non-through cut.  
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Through Cuts  
A through cut is a sawing operation in which the  
workpiece is completely sawn through, as shown in  
Figure 29. Examples of through cuts are rip cuts, cross  
cuts, miter cuts, and beveled cuts. The blade guard  
assembly MUST be used when performing through cuts.  
Figure 29. Example of a through cut.  
If you have never used this type of machine or  
equipment before, seek training from an experienced  
machine operator or read "how to" books before  
beginning any projects. Regardless of the content  
in this section, Shop Fox will not be held liable for  
accidents caused by lack of training.  
-24-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Blade Size Requirements  
When choosing a blade, make sure the blade size meets  
the requirements listed below. The thickness of the  
blade body and teeth can measured with calipers or any  
precision measurement device.  
Blade Size Requirements:  
•
•
•
Blade Diameter ......................................... 10"  
Body Thickness..............0.071"–0.094" (1.8–2.4mm)  
Kerf (Tooth) Thickness.....0.102"–0.126" (2.6–3.2mm)  
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Using a blade that does not meet the specified blade  
size requirements presents a hazardous condition  
that could cause kickback, operator injuries, or  
properly damage. ALWAYS use a blade that meets the  
given blade size requirements.  
Figure 30. Example of a ripping blade.  
Blade Selection  
This section on blade selection is by no means  
comprehensive. Always follow the saw blade  
manufacturer's recommendations to ensure safe and  
efficient operation of your table saw.  
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Ripping Blade Features (Figure 30):  
•
•
•
•
Best for cutting with the grain  
20-40 teeth  
Flat-top ground tooth profile  
Large gullets for large chip removal  
Crosscut Blade Features (Figure 31):  
•
•
•
•
Best for cutting across the grain  
60-80 teeth  
Alternate top bevel tooth profile  
Small hook angle and a shallow gullet  
Figure 31. Example of a crosscut blade.  
Combination Blade Features (Figure 32):  
•
•
•
Designed to cut both with and across grain  
40-50 teeth  
Alternate top bevel and flat, or alternate top bevel  
and raker tooth profile  
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•
•
Teeth are arranged in groups  
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Gullets are small and shallow (similar to a cross-cut  
blade), then large and deep (similar to a ripping  
blade  
Figure 32. Example of a combination  
blade.  
-25-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Laminate Blade Features (Figure 33):  
•
•
•
•
Best for cutting plywood or veneer  
40-80 teeth  
Triple chip tooth profile  
Very shallow gullet  
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Thin Kerf Blade: A blade with thinner kerf than a  
standard blade. Since the spreader/riving knife included  
with this table saw is sized for standard blades, thin kerf  
blades cannot be used on this saw unless they meet the  
Blade Requirements specified in this manual; otherwise,  
they will increase the risk of kickback.  
Figure 33. Example of a laminate blade.  
Dado Blades  
Stacked Dado Blade (see Figure 34): Multiple blades are  
stacked together to control the cutting width. Stacked  
dado blades are more expensive than wobble blades, but  
typically produce higher quality results.  
Wobble Dado Blade: A single blade mounted at a slight  
angle on an arbor hub. The blade angle is adjustable on  
the hub, and the width of the dado cut is controlled by  
the angle setting of the blade.  
Figure 34. Stacked dado blade.  
-26-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Blade Installation  
Properly installing the blade is critical to safe cutting  
operations that produce good results. Review this section,  
even if your blade came pre-installed.  
To install the blade, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Remove the table insert and blade guard/riving  
knife, depending on what is installed.  
The arbor nut is self-tightening by  
design when a cut is made. When  
installing the blade, only tighten the  
arbor nut so that it firmly holds the  
blade in place. Overtightening the  
arbor nut may lead to nut and arbor  
failure which could cause metal debris  
to be thrown from the saw.  
Before proceeding with the next step, wear leather  
gloves to protect your hands while handling and  
installing the blade.  
3. Push the arbor lock in (see Figure 35) and turn the  
blade until it locks in place, then use the arbor  
wrench to loosen and remove the arbor nut, flange,  
and blade.  
4. Slide the blade over the arbor with the teeth facing  
the front of the saw, as shown in Figure 36.  
Arbor  
Lock  
5. Re-install the arbor flange and the arbor nut, then  
tighten them against the blade with the wrenches  
included with the saw. DO NOT overtighten.  
6. Re-install the table insert and blade guard/riving  
knife.  
Figure 35. Arbor lock location.  
Figure 36. Order of blade component  
installation and teeth facing to the front.  
-27-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Blade Guard Assembly  
The term "blade guard" refers to the assembly that  
consists of the clear polycarbonate shield, the spreader,  
and the anti-kickback pawls on each side of the spreader  
(see Figure 37). Each of these components have  
important safety functions during the operation of the  
saw.  
Clear Guard  
Anti-Kickback  
Guard  
Spreader  
Pawl  
The clear polycarbonate guard allows the operator to  
see the blade cut the workpiece during operation. This  
guard is designed to lift as the workpiece is pushed into  
the blade and remain in contact with the workpiece  
throughout the entire cut.  
Figure 37. Blade guard assembly  
components.  
The guard reduces injury risk by providing a barrier  
around the blade that prevents accidental contact and  
contains flying wood chips.  
To ensure that the guard does its job effectively, the  
guard must always be in the downward position against  
the table during idle operation, and the hinge mechanism  
must be maintained in good working condition so the  
guard can freely pivot up and down to accommodate the  
height of the workpiece and return to the table surface.  
In order to work properly, the spreader  
cannot be bent or misaligned with the  
blade. If the spreader gets accidentally  
bent, take the time to straighten it  
or just replace it. Using a bent or  
misaligned spreader will increase the  
risk of kickback!  
Spreader  
The spreader is a metal plate that prevents the freshly  
cut pieces of the workpiece from pinching the backside of  
the blade and causing a kickback. It also acts as a barrier  
behind the blade to shield hands from being pulled into  
the blade if a kickback occurs.  
Bracket  
Blade Guard & Spreader Installation  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Locking  
Pin  
2. Install the standard table insert.  
Knurled  
Knob  
3. Slide the knurled knob out (see Figure 38), then  
Adjustment  
Block  
rotate it so it engages the upper bracket.  
4. Slide the blade guard spreader all the way down  
into the adjustment block, then rotate the knurled  
knob so it disengages the bracket and the locking pin  
engages the hole in the center of the spreader.  
Figure 38. Knurled knob used to secure  
the spreader.  
5. Tug the spreader upward to verify that it is locked  
and does not come out when pulled.  
-28-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
The blade guard, when properly installed, should be  
set up, as shown in Figure 39. It should pivot freely  
up and down, then return to the table in the resting  
position and completely cover the blade. It should  
also swing up high enough to accommodate the  
workpiece.  
6. Adjust the flat head screws around the perimeter of  
the insert to make sure it is flush with the table (use  
a straightedge as a guide).  
7. Swing one side of the blade guard up and out of the  
way.  
Figure 39. Blade guard and spreader  
properly installed.  
8. Lift up on the right spreader pawl, and place a  
straightedge against the blade and the spreader,  
making sure the straightedge does not touch a blade  
tooth.  
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When properly aligned, the spreader will be in the  
"Alignment Zone," shown in Figure 40, and will be  
parallel with the blade.  
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— If the spreader is not inside the alignment zone  
and not parallel with the blade, then it needs  
to be adjusted. Perform the Spreader or Riving  
Knife Alignment procedure on Page 63.  
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Anti-Kickback Pawls  
Figure 40. Spreader in the "Alignment  
Zone."  
The anti-kickback pawls allow the workpiece to travel in  
only one direction. If the workpiece moves backwards,  
such as during a kickback, the pawls will dig into the  
workpiece to slow or stop it.  
Arresting Hooks  
To work properly, the pawls must return to their resting  
position after pivoting up, as shown in Figure 41, and  
they must not be engaged in the arresting hooks.  
Pawl  
If the pawls fail to return to the resting position, the pivot  
area may need to be cleaned or the spring may have been  
dislodged or broken and will need to be fixed/replaced.  
Figure 41. Pawls in the resting position.  
-29-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Disabling Pawls  
You might disable the pawls if you are concerned  
about them scratching a delicate workpiece, or if you  
believe that they will obstruct a narrow workpiece and  
cause feeding difficulty or loss of control. Use your  
best judgment before retracting the pawls, as they are  
provided for your safety.  
We do not recommend disabling the  
pawls during normal operations unless  
absolutelynecessary. Inmostsituations,  
disabling the pawls will increase your  
risk of serious personal injury in the  
event of a kickback.  
To disable the pawls, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Rotate one or both arresting hooks downward,  
then place the pawls on each of the hooks (see  
Figure 42).  
The pawls are sharp and can quickly  
cut fingers and hands. Use caution, and  
wear leather gloves when handling the  
pawls to reduce the risk of injury.  
Enabling Pawls  
To enable the pawls, lift up on each pawl and move them  
outward and down until they both touch the table surface  
in the resting position, as shown in Figure 41 on the  
previous page.  
When to Use the Blade Guard  
The blade guard assembly MUST always be installed on  
the saw for all normal through cuts (those where the  
blade cuts all the way through the thickness of the  
workpiece). If the blade guard is removed for specific  
operations, always immediately replace it after those  
operations are complete.  
Pawl  
Arresting Hook  
(1 of 2)  
When Not to Use the Blade Guard  
The blade guard cannot be used on any non-through  
cuts (those in which the blade does not cut all the way  
through the thickness of the workpiece).  
Figure 42. Pawl disabled.  
Sometimes the blade guard or its components can get in  
the way when cutting very narrow workpieces or other  
specialized cuts. Because the blade guard is provided to  
decrease your risk of injury, it should not be used if it  
gets in the way of making a safe cut. Use good judgment!  
Whenever the blade guard and spreader  
cannot be used, the riving knife must  
be used to avoid the risk of the kerf  
binding on the blade and causing  
kickback.  
-30-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Riving Knife  
The riving knife works in the same manner as the  
spreader on the blade guard assembly. It is a metal plate  
that prevents the newly cut workpiece from pinching the  
backside of the blade and causing kickback.  
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The key difference between the spreader and the riving  
knife is that the riving knife mounts below the blade's  
highest point of rotation, as shown in Figure 43.  
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The height difference between the riving knife and the  
blade allows the workpiece to pass over the blade during  
non-through cuts (those in which the blade does not cut  
all the way through the thickness of the workpiece).  
Figure 43. Height difference between the  
riving knife and blade.  
The riving knife acts as a barrier behind the blade to  
reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if a  
kickback occurs.  
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The riving knife must be spaced away from the blade, as  
shown in Figure 44.  
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Riving Knife Installation  
The riving knife is installed in a similar manner to the  
blade guard and spreader. Refer to Blade Guard Assembly  
on Page 28 for installation instructions.  
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Figure 44. Allowable distance ranges  
between the riving knife and blade.  
When to Use the Riving Knife  
Use the riving knife for all non-through cuts made with a  
standard table saw blade (i.e., dadoes or rabbet cuts, and  
when using a tenoning jig), or when using a 10" diameter  
dado blade.  
When Not to Use the Riving Knife  
Do not use the riving knife with a dado  
blade that has a diameter smaller than 10"  
in diameter. Otherwise, the riving knife  
height will exceed the blade height and  
the workpiece will hit the riving knife  
during the cut, forcing the operator into  
a dangerous situation of trying to turn the  
saw off with the workpiece stuck halfway  
through the cut.  
Also, use the riving knife for those special operations  
where the blade guard or its components get in the way  
of safe operation, such as with very narrow cuts.  
In addition, although it is possible to  
use the riving knife for through-cutting  
operations, the blade guard assembly offers  
much more injury protection and risk  
reduction than the riving knife. Therefore,  
we strongly recommend that you use the  
blade guard assembly instead of the riving  
knife when making through cuts.  
-31-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Ripping  
Ripping means cutting with the grain of a natural wood  
workpiece. In man-made materials such as MDF or  
plywood, ripping simply means cutting lengthwise.  
To make a rip cut, do these steps:  
Never attempt to rip a workpiece that  
does not have one perfectly straight  
edge on it. Always place the straight  
edge against the rip fence. Failure to  
do this could result in kickback and  
serious personal injury.  
1. Review Preventing Kickback on Page 9 and take the  
necessary precautions to reduce the likelihood of  
kickback.  
2. Inspect the board for soundness. You will need one  
straight edge of the workpiece to place against the  
fence when ripping. Also, if the workpiece is slightly  
cupped, always place the cupped side down on the  
table for stability.  
3. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
4. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is properly  
installed.  
5. Set the fence to the desired width of cut on the  
scale.  
6. Adjust the blade height so the highest saw tooth  
protrudes no more than 1⁄4" above the workpiece.  
Figure 45. Example photo of a ripping  
7. Set up safety devices such as featherboards or other  
operation.  
anti-kickback devices.  
8. Rotate the blade to make sure it does not come into  
contact with any of the safety devices.  
9. Re-connect the saw to power, then turn it ON and  
allow the blade to reach full speed.  
Note: The jointed edge of the workpiece must slide  
against the fence during the cutting operation.  
Keep the blade guard installed and in  
the down position. Failure to do this  
could result in serious personal injury  
or death.  
10. Use a push stick to feed the workpiece through  
the saw blade, as shown in Figure 45, until it is  
completely beyond the saw blade.  
Turn OFF the saw and ALWAYS allow  
the blade to come to a complete stop  
before removing the cut-off piece.  
Failure to follow this warning could  
result in serious personal injury.  
-32-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Crosscutting  
Crosscutting means cutting across the grain of a natural  
wood workpiece. In other man-made materials, such as  
MDF or plywood, crosscutting means cutting across the  
width of the workpiece.  
To make a crosscut using the miter gauge, do these  
steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is properly  
installed.  
3. Move the rip fence aside and position the miter  
gauge in a miter slot, then adjust it to 90° from the  
blade.  
4. Adjust the blade height so the teeth protrude no  
more than 1⁄4" above the workpiece.  
5. Inspect the workpiece for soundness. If the  
workpiece is slightly cupped, place the cupped face  
down on the table.  
6. Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the  
workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of  
the line.  
7. Re-connect the saw to power, then turn it ON and  
allow the blade to reach full speed.  
Figure 46. Example photo of a  
crosscutting operation.  
8. Hold the workpiece firmly against the face of the  
miter gauge (as shown in Figure 46), then ease the  
workpiece through the blade until it is completely  
past the saw blade.  
-33-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Miter Cuts  
A miter cut is an angled crosscut. Miters are usually cut in  
the same manner as crosscuts, using the miter gauge and  
a predetermined mark on the workpiece.  
To perform a miter cut, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is properly  
installed.  
3. Determine the angle of your cut. If the angle needs  
to be very precise, use a protractor to set the miter  
gauge to the blade.  
4. Place the face of the miter gauge against the edge  
of the workpiece and place the T-slot bar across  
the face of the workpiece. Use the bar as a guide  
to mark your cut onto the workpiece, as shown in  
Figure 47.  
Figure 47. Example photo of making a  
miter mark.  
5. Place the miter gauge back into the slot and hold  
the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge body.  
Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the  
workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of  
the line.  
6. Proceed to make the cut in the same manner as  
described in the Crosscutting procedure.  
Blade Tilt Cuts  
The blade can be tilted between 0° (perpendicular to  
the table) and 45°. This feature is used most often when  
cutting bevels, compound miters, or chamfers. Figure 48  
shows an example of the blade when tilted 45° to the  
table.  
Figure 48. Blade tilted 45° to the table.  
-34-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Dado Cutting  
Commonly used in furniture joinery, a dado is a straight  
channel cut in the face of the workpiece. Dadoes are  
"non-through" cuts that can be made with a dado blade or  
a standard saw blade. Figure 49 shows a cutaway view of  
a dado cut being made with a dado blade.  
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The included dado table insert must be installed and used  
when a dado blade is installed—unless a zero clearance  
table insert is used instead.  
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Dado Blade Installation  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Figure 49. Illustration of a dado cut.  
2. Remove the standard table insert, the blade guard  
assembly or riving knife, and the saw blade.  
DO NOT make through cuts with a dado  
blade. Dado blades are only intended  
for non-through cuts. Failure to heed  
this warning could result in serious  
injury.  
3. Attach and adjust the dado blade system according  
to the dado blade manufacturer’s instructions  
4. Install the dado table insert.  
Dado Blade  
Dado blades have a higher risk of kickback than  
normal blades because their larger size applies  
stronger forces to the workpiece. This risk increases  
relative to the depth and width of the cut. To  
minimize your risk of serious personal injury, ensure  
that stock is flat and straight, and make multiple  
light cuts (rather than one deep cut) to achieve the  
desired cutting depth.  
Cut 1  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Cut 2  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Cutting Dados with a Dado Blade  
Because dado blades are much wider than standard  
blades, they place a greater amount of force against the  
workpiece when cutting. This additional force increases  
the risk of kickback, requiring the operator to take  
additional steps when cutting to keep their injury risk at  
an acceptable level.  
Cut 3  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Figure 50 demonstrates the sequential process of making  
multiple, light cuts that get progressively deeper. The  
actual number of cuts used should be determined by  
workpiece hardness, total dado depth, and feed rate. In  
general, if you hear the motor slow down during the cut,  
you are cutting too deep or feeding too fast.  
Finished  
Dado Cut  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Figure 50. Example of cutting a dado with  
multiple light cuts, instead of one deep  
cut.  
-35-  
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To cut a dado with a dado blade, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Adjust the dado blade to the desired depth of cut.  
3. Adjust the distance between the fence and the  
inside edge of the blade, as shown in Figure 51  
on the previous page, to dado the length of a  
workpiece.  
;X[fꢀ9cX[\  
— If dadoing across the workpiece, use the miter  
gauge and carefully line up the desired cut  
with the dado blade. DO NOT use the fence in  
combination with the miter gauge, which could  
result in the workpiece binding and kicking back.  
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Nfibg`\Z\  
4. Re-connect the saw to the power source.  
Figure 51. Illustration of a dado cut.  
5. Turn the saw ON. The blade should run smooth, with  
no vibrations.  
6. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a  
test cut with a scrap piece of wood.  
7. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the  
actual workpiece.  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Cutting Dados with a Standard Blade  
A ripping blade (described on Page 25) is typically  
the best blade to use for cutting dadoes when using  
a standard blade, because it removes sawdust very  
efficiently.  
Blade  
Cut 1  
Fence  
Workpiece  
To use a standard saw blade to cut dadoes, do these  
steps:  
Figure 52. First cut when using a single  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
blade for making a dado.  
2. Mark the width of the dado cut on the workpiece.  
Include marks on the edge of the workpiece so the  
cut path can be aligned when the workpiece is lying  
on the table.  
Blade  
Cut 2  
Fence  
3. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut  
Workpiece  
(depth of the dado channel desired).  
4. Set up the saw for the type of cut you need to  
make, depending on if it is a rip cut (see Page 32) or  
crosscut (see Page 33).  
Figure 53. Second cut for a single dado  
cut.  
5. Align the blade to cut one of the dado sides, as  
shown in Figure 52.  
Cuts 3+  
6. Re-connect the saw to the power source and turn  
the saw ON. Allow the blade to reach full speed,  
then perform the cutting operation.  
=\eZ\  
Nfibg`\Z\  
7. Repeat the cutting operation on the other side of  
the dado channel, as shown in Figure 53.  
Figure 54. Additional single blade dado  
cuts.  
8. Make additional cuts (see Figure 54) in the center  
of the dado to clear out the necessary material. The  
dado is complete when the channel is completely  
cleared out.  
Always use push sticks, featherboards,  
push paddles and other safety  
accessories whenever possible to  
increase safety and control during  
operations which require that the  
blade guard be removed from the saw.  
ALWAYS replace the blade guard after  
dadoing is complete.  
-37-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Rabbet Cutting  
Commonly used in furniture joinery, a rabbet cut is  
an L-shaped groove cut in the edge of the workpiece.  
Rabbets can be cut with either a dado blade or a standard  
saw blade.  
Dado blades have a higher risk of  
kickback than normal blades because  
their larger size applies stronger forces  
to the workpiece. This risk increases  
relative to the depth and width of the  
cut. To minimize your risk of serious  
personal injury, ensure that stock is  
flat and straight, and make multiple  
light cuts (rather than one deep cut) to  
achieve the desired cutting depth.  
Rabbet cutting on the edge of the workpiece with a dado  
blade requires a sacrificial fence (see Figure 55). Make  
the sacrificial fence the same length as the fence and  
3
⁄4" thick. Attach it to the fence with screws or clamps,  
making sure they are all secure and tight. Raise the blade  
into the sacrificial fence to the height needed.  
Cutting Rabbets with a Dado Blade  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Adjust the dado blade to the height needed for the  
rabbeting operation. When cutting deep rabbets,  
take multiple light passes to reduce the risk of  
kickback.  
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3. Adjust the fence and align the workpiece to perform  
the cutting operation, as shown in Figure 56.  
9cX[\ꢀ:lk$Flk  
4. Re-connect the saw to the power source and turn  
the saw ON. When the blade has reached full speed,  
perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood.  
Figure 55. Sacrificial fence installed.  
— If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the  
final workpiece.  
Sacrificial Fence  
Dado Blade  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Figure 56. Rabbet cutting with a  
sacrificial fence.  
-38-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Cutting Rabbets with a Standard Blade  
A ripping blade is typically the best blade to use for  
cutting rabbets when using a standard blade because it  
removes sawdust very efficiently. (See Page 25 for blade  
details.) Also, a sacrificial fence is not required when  
cutting rabbets with a standard blade.  
To cut rabbets with the standard blade, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Ensure that the riving knife and standard table insert  
are properly installed.  
3. Mark the width of the rabbet cut on the edge of the  
workpiece, so you can clearly identify the intended  
cut while it is laying flat on the saw table.  
DO NOT place a tall board on edge to  
perform a rabbet cut with a standard  
blade. Workpieces that are too tall  
to be properly supported with the  
fence can easily shift during operation  
and cause kickback. Instead, place the  
stock flat on the saw and perform the  
rabbet cut with a dado blade.  
4. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut  
(depth of the rabbet channel desired).  
5. Stand the workpiece on edge, as shown in Figure 57,  
then adjust the fence so the blade is aligned with  
the inside of your rabbet channel.  
— If the workpiece is very tall, or is unstable when  
placed against the fence, lay it flat on the table  
and use a dado blade to perform the rabbet cut.  
6. Reconnect the saw to the power source, then  
perform the cut.  
7. Lay the workpiece flat on the table, as shown in  
Figure 58, adjust the saw blade height to intersect  
with the first cut, then perform the second cut to  
complete the rabbet.  
Blade  
Fence  
Figure 57. First rabbet cut with a single  
blade.  
Blade  
Fence  
Workpiece  
Figure 58. Second rabbet cut with a single  
blade.  
-39-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Resawing  
Resawing is the process of cutting a thick piece of stock  
into one or more thinner pieces. Although resawing can  
be done with a table saw, we strongly recommend that  
you use a bandsaw instead.  
Resawing operations require proper  
procedures to avoid serious injury.  
Extra care must be taken to prevent  
kickback when resawing. Any tilting  
or movement of the workpiece away  
from the fence will cause kickback. Be  
certain that stock is flat and straight.  
Failure to follow these warnings could  
result in serious personal injury.  
A bandsaw is the ideal machine for resawing, and  
resawing with one is fairly easy and safe. A table saw  
is not intended for resawing, and resawing with one  
is difficult and dangerous due to the increased risk of  
kickback from binding and deep cuts, and the increased  
risk of injury from having to remove the guard.  
If you insist on resawing with a table saw, DO NOT do  
so without using a resaw barrier and wearing a full face  
shield. The following instructions describe how to build a  
resaw barrier and add an auxiliary fence to your standard  
fence, to reduce the risk injury from resawing on a table  
saw.  
Note: To determine the maximum resawing height for this  
table saw, find the maximum blade height, then double it  
and subtract 1⁄8".  
Making a Resaw Barrier  
The resaw barrier acts in tandem with the rip fence when  
resawing to provide tall support for the workpiece to  
minimize the probability of it binding against the blade  
and causing kickback.  
Tools Needed:  
Qty  
Table Saw ........................................................1  
Jointer and Planer............................. Recommended  
Clamps................................................2 Minimum  
Drill and Drill Bits................................... As Needed  
Components Needed for Resaw Barrier:  
3
Wood* ⁄4" x 51⁄2" x Length of Fence ........................1  
3
Wood* ⁄4" x 3" x Length of Fence............................1  
Wood Screws #10 x 2" .........................................4  
Wood Glue ........................................... As Needed  
* Only use furniture-grade plywood, kiln dried hardwood,  
or HDPE plastic to prevent warping.  
-40-  
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To build the resaw barrier, do these steps:  
#10 x 2"  
Wood Screw  
3⁄4"  
1. Cut your wood pieces to the size specified above.  
If you are using hardwood, cut the pieces oversize,  
then joint and plane them to the correct size to  
make sure they are square and flat.  
2. Pre-drill and countersink four holes approximately  
3
⁄
8" from the bottom of the 51⁄2" tall wood piece.  
3⁄4"  
3. Glue the end of the 3" board, then clamp the boards  
at a 90° angle with the larger board in the vertical  
position, as shown in Figure 59, and fasten them  
together with the wood screws.  
Assembled  
Resaw Barrier  
Figure 59. Shop-made resaw barrier.  
Auxiliary Fence  
The auxiliary fence is necessary if you are resawing a  
workpiece that is taller than it is wide. It should be no  
less than 1⁄2" shorter than the board to be resawn.  
Components Needed for the Auxiliary Fence:  
3
Wood* ⁄4" x (Height) x Length of Fence....................1  
* Only use furniture-grade plywood, kiln dried hardwood,  
or HDPE plastic to prevent warping.  
Tools Needed for the Auxiliary Fence:  
Table Saw ........................................................1  
Jointer and Planer............................. Recommended  
Clamps................................................2 Minimum  
To build the auxiliary fence, do these steps:  
1. Cut the auxiliary fence board to size. If you are using  
hardwood, cut the board oversize, then joint and  
plane the board to the correct size to make sure the  
board is square and flat.  
Fence  
Body  
Fence  
Facing  
2. Unthread the fence face mounting hardware and  
remove the fence face from the fence assembly.  
3. Place the auxiliary fence next to the fence face you  
removed in Step 1, mark the location of the nine  
mounting holes on the auxiliary fence, then drill the  
holes.  
Auxiliary  
Fence  
4. Use the mounting hardware you removed in Step 2  
to attach the auxiliary fence. The end result should  
be similar to Figure 60.  
Figure 60. Example illustration of an  
auxiliary fence installed.  
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Resawing Operation  
The table saw motor is pushed to its limits when  
resawing. If the motor starts to bog down, slow down  
your feed rate. Motor overloading and blade wear can  
be reduced by using a ripping blade. Ripping blades are  
designed to clear the sawdust quickly.  
The risk of kickback when resawing is  
high. Always stand to the side of the  
cutting path and wear a full face shield  
to prevent kickback injuries when  
resawing.  
Components Needed for Resawing:  
Zero-clearance Table Insert...................................1  
Ripping Blade 10" ...............................................1  
Clamps............................................................2  
Shop Made Auxiliary Fence....................................1  
Shop Made Resaw Barrier......................................1  
To perform resawing operations, do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Remove the standard table insert and the blade  
guard assembly.  
3. Install a ripping blade, install the riving knife,  
lower the blade below the table, then install a zero  
clearance table insert.  
4. Attach the auxiliary fence and set it to the desired  
width from the blade.  
Note: When setting the correct width, don't forget  
to account for blade kerf and the inaccuracy of the  
fence scale while the auxiliary fence is installed.  
(Front View)  
Nfibg`\Z\  
8lo`c`Xip  
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9Xii`\i  
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5. Place the workpiece against the auxiliary fence and  
slide the resaw barrier against the workpiece, as  
shown in Figure 61. Now clamp the resaw barrier to  
the top of the table saw at both ends.  
6. Lower the blade completely below the table, slide  
the workpiece over the blade to make sure it moves  
smoothly and fits between the resaw barrier and  
fence, then remove the workpiece.  
Figure 61. Example illustration of a resaw  
7. Raise the blade approximately an inch, or close to  
setup.  
half the height of the workpiece, whichever is less.  
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8. Plug in the table saw, turn it ON, and use a push  
stick or push block to feed the workpiece through  
the blade, using a slow and steady feed rate.  
The danger of kickback increases  
relative to the depth of a cut. Reduce  
the risk of kickback by making multiple  
passes to achieve the desired depth of  
cut. Failure to follow these warnings  
could result in serious personal injury.  
9. Flip the workpiece end for end, keeping the same  
side against the fence, and run the workpiece  
through the blade again.  
10. If necessary to complete the operation, repeat Steps  
7–9 until the blade is close to half of the height of  
the board to be resawn. The ideal completed resaw  
cut will leave an 1⁄8" connection when the resawing  
is complete, as shown in Figure 62. Leaving an 1⁄8  
"
Always use push sticks or push paddles  
to increase safety and control during  
operations which require that the blade  
guard and spreader must be removed  
from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade  
guard after resawing is complete.  
connection will reduce the risk of kickback.  
11. Turn OFF the table saw, then separate the parts of  
the workpiece and hand plane the remaining ridge to  
remove it.  
12. When finished resawing, remove the resaw barrier  
and auxiliary fence, then re-install the blade guard/  
spreader or riving knife and standard table insert.  
Nfibg`\Z\  
8lo`c`Xip  
=\eZ\  
I\jXn  
9Xii`\i  
=\eZ\  
(&/ꢁꢀ:fee\Zk`fe  
Figure 62. Completed resaw operation.  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
SHOP-MADE SAFETY ACCESSORIES  
Featherboards  
Easily made from scrap stock, featherboards provide an  
added degree of protection against kickback, especially  
when used together with push sticks. They also maintain  
pressure on the workpiece to keep it against the fence  
or table while cutting, which makes the operation easier  
and safer because the cut can be completed without the  
operator’s hands getting near the blade. The angled ends  
and flexibility of the fingers allow the workpiece to move  
Cuts made across the grain result in  
weak fingers that easily break when  
flexed. When made correctly, the  
fingers should withstand flexing from  
moderate pressure. To test the finger  
flexibility, push firmly on the ends with  
your thumb. If the fingers do not flex,  
they are likely too thick (the cuts are  
too far apart).  
in only one direction.  
Making a Featherboard  
This sub-section covers the two basic types of  
featherboards: 1) Those secured by clamps, or 2) those  
secured with the miter slot.  
Material Needed for Featherboard:  
Hardwood 3⁄4" x 3" x 10" (Minimum) .........................1  
Hardwood 3⁄4" x 6" x 28" (Maximum).........................1  
10" (Minimum)  
30°  
Additional Material Needed for Mounting Featherboard:  
Hardwood 3⁄8" x (Miter Slot Width) x 5"L ...................1  
Wing Nut 1⁄4"-20.................................................1  
Flat Head Screw 1⁄4"-20 x 2" ..................................1  
Flat Washer 1⁄4"-20 .............................................1  
Kerf  
3/8"  
1/16"-1/8"  
A
2"-3"  
Initial Cut  
To make a featherboard, do these steps:  
2"-3"  
Kerf  
1. Cut a hardwood board that is approximately 3⁄4  
"
1/16"-1/8"  
thick to size. The length and width of the board can  
vary according to your design. Most featherboards  
are 10"–28" long and 3"–6" wide. Make sure the  
wood grain runs parallel with the length of the  
featherboard, so the fingers you will create in  
Step 3 will bend without breaking.  
3/8"  
B
Progressively  
Longer Cuts  
Figure 63. Patterns for making  
featherboards.  
2. Cut a 30º angle at one end of the board.  
3. Make a series of end cuts with the grain 3⁄8"–1⁄4  
apart and 2"–3" long, as shown in Figure 63  
"
Only Steps 1–3 are required to make a  
clamp-mounted featherboard. Refer to  
Page 46 for instructions on clamping  
the featherboard to the table.  
(A). Alternatively, start cuts at 2"–3" deep, then  
make them progressively deeper, as shown in  
Figure 63 (B).  
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4. Rout a 1⁄4"–3⁄8" wide slot 4"–5" long in the workpiece  
and 1"–2" from the short end of the featherboard, as  
illustrated in Figure 64.  
1/4"-3/8" Slot  
1"-2"  
5. Cut a miter bar that will fit in the table miter slot  
approximately 5" long (see Figure 65).  
4"-5"  
Tip: Consider making the miter bar longer for larger  
featherboards—approximately half the length of the  
total featherboard—to support the force applied to  
the featherboard during use.  
Figure 64. Slot cut into the featherboard  
for use with a miter slot.  
6. Drill a 1⁄4" hole in the center of the bar, then  
countersink the bottom to fit a 1⁄4"-20 flat head  
screw.  
(Top View)  
3/8"  
(Side View)  
5"  
7. Mark a 4" line through the center of the countersunk  
hole in the center, then use a jig saw with a narrow  
blade to cut it out.  
1/4" Hole  
5"  
8. Assemble the miter bar and featherboard with a 1⁄4"-  
20 x flat head screw, flat washer, and a wing nut or  
a star knob (see Figure 66). Congratulations! Your  
featherboard is complete.  
Countersink on Bottom  
4" Slot  
Figure 65. Patterns for featherboard miter  
Note: The routed slot, countersunk hole, and the  
flat head screw are essential for the miter bar to  
clamp into the miter slot. When the wing nut is  
tightened, it will draw the flat head screw upward  
into the countersunk hole. This will spread the sides  
of the miter bar and force them into the walls of  
the miter slot, locking the featherboard in place.  
bar.  
(Side View)  
Wing Nut  
Flat Washer  
Featherboard  
Tip: The length of the flat head screw depends on  
the thickness of the featherboard—though 11⁄2" to 2"  
lengths usually work.  
Miter Bar  
Flat Head Screw  
9. Proceed to Mounting Featherboard in Miter Slot on  
the next page.  
Figure 66. Assembly order of featherboard  
components for use with a miter slot.  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Mounting Featherboard with Clamps  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Lower the saw blade, then adjust the fence to the  
desired width and secure it.  
3. Place the workpiece against the fence, making sure  
it is 1" in front of the blade.  
4. Place a featherboard on the table so all fingers  
point forward and contact the workpiece evenly (see  
Figure 67 for an example).  
Fence Featherboard  
Clamp  
5. Secure the featherboard to the table with a clamp.  
6. Check the featherboard by pushing it with your  
thumb to ensure it is secure.  
Clamp  
— If the featherboard moves, tighten the clamp some  
more.  
Table  
Featherboard  
7. Mount a second featherboard to the fence with  
another clamp, then repeat Step 6 to ensure it is  
secure (see Figure 67).  
Figure 67. Example photo of  
featherboards mounted with clamps.  
Mounting Featherboard in Miter Slot  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Blade  
2. Lower the saw blade, then adjust the fence to the  
desired width and secure it.  
Featherboard  
3. Place the workpiece evenly against the fence,  
making sure it is 1" in front of the blade.  
4. Slide the featherboard miter bar into the miter slot,  
making sure the fingers slant toward the blade, as  
illustrated in Figure 68.  
Workpiece  
5. Position the fingered edge of the featherboard  
against the edge of the workpiece, so that all of  
the fingers contact the workpiece evenly. Slide the  
featherboard toward the blade until the first finger  
is nearly even with the end of the workpiece, which  
should be 1" away from the blade.  
Figure 68. Example illustration of the  
featherboard mounted in the miter slot.  
The featherboard should be placed  
firmly enough against the workpiece  
to keep it against the fence but not  
so tight that it is difficult to feed the  
workpiece.  
6. Double check the workpiece and the featherboard to  
ensure they are properly positioned, as described in  
Step 5. Then secure the featherboard to the table.  
Check the featherboard by hand to make sure it is  
tight.  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Push Stick  
Prohibition  
Zone  
Push Sticks  
When used correctly, push sticks reduce the risk of injury  
by keeping hands away from the blade while cutting. In  
the event of an accident, a push stick can absorb damage  
that would have otherwise happened to hands or fingers.  
Use push sticks whenever your hands will get within 12"  
of the blade. To maintain control when cutting large  
workpieces, start the cut by feeding with your hands then  
use push sticks to finish the cut, so your hands are not on  
the end of the workpiece as it passes through the blade.  
Store Push  
Stick Here  
for Easy  
Push Stick  
Supporting  
Access  
Blade  
Path  
Push Stick  
Feeding  
Feeding: Place the notched end of the push stick  
against the end of the workpiece (see inset Figure 69),  
and move the workpiece into the blade with steady  
downward and forward pressure.  
=`^li\ꢀ-0% Using push sticks to rip narrow  
stock.  
Supporting: A second push stick can be used to keep the  
workpiece firmly against the fence while cutting. When  
using a push stick in this manner, only apply pressure  
before the blade; otherwise, pushing the workpiece  
against or behind the blade will increase the risk of  
kickback (see Figure 69).  
=`^li\ꢀ.'% Side view of push stick in-use.  
Making a Push Stick  
Use this template to make  
your own push stick.  
SIZING: Push stick must  
be at least 15 3⁄4" long.  
Use 1⁄2"–3⁄4" thick  
material.  
Cut here to  
push 1⁄4" stock  
Cut here to push 1⁄2" stock  
Notch to help  
prevent hand  
from slipping  
Notch for placing on  
corners of workpieces  
MATERIAL: Only use hard-  
wood, sturdy plywood, or  
high-density plastic. Do not  
use softwood that may break  
under pressure or metal that  
can break teeth from the  
blade!  
SANDING: Sand  
edges to remove  
rough edges and  
increase comfort.  
1⁄2" Grid  
Figure 71. Template for a basic shop-made push stick (not shown at actual size).  
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Push Stick  
Prohibition  
Zone  
Push Blocks  
When used correctly, a push block reduces the risk of  
injury by keeping hands away from the blade while  
cutting. In the event of an accident, a push block often  
takes the damage that would have otherwise happened  
to hands or fingers.  
Push Stick  
Supporting  
A push block can be used in place of or in addition to  
a push stick for feeding workpieces into the blade. Due  
to their design, push blocks allow the operator to apply  
firm downward pressure on the workpiece that could not  
otherwise be achieved with a push stick.  
Blade  
Path  
Feeding  
Push  
Block  
=`^li\ꢀ.)% Using a push block and push  
stick to make a rip cut.  
The push block design on this page (see Figure 74) can  
be used in two different ways (see Figure 73). Typically,  
the bottom of the push block is used until the end of the  
workpiece reaches the blade.  
The notched end of the push block is then used to push  
the workpiece the rest of the way through the cut,  
keeping the operator's hands at a safe distance from the  
blade. A push stick is often used at the same time in the  
other hand to support the workpiece during the cut.  
=`^li\ꢀ.*. Side view of push block in use.  
CAUTION: Bottom  
of handle must be  
at least 4" above  
bottom of push  
block to keep  
hand away from  
blade.  
Making a Push Block  
Use this template to make your own push block.  
Handle for  
firm grip  
Make push block with  
1⁄2"–3⁄4" thick material  
Notch for use  
as a push stick  
4"  
CAUTION: Only use hardwood, sturdy plywood, or  
high-density plastic. Do not use softwood that  
may break under pressure or metal that can break  
teeth from the blade!  
1⁄4"–1⁄2"  
Lip for pushing workpiece  
9"−10" Minimum Length  
1⁄2" Grid  
Figure 74. Template for a basic shop-made push stick (not shown at actual size).  
-48-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Narrow-Rip Auxiliary  
Fence & Push Block  
There are hundreds of designs for specialty jigs that can  
be found in books, trade magazines, and on the internet.  
These types of jigs can greatly improve the safety and  
consistency of cuts. They are particularly useful during  
production runs when dozens or hundreds of the same  
type of cut need to be made. The narrow-rip auxiliary  
fence and push block system shown in this section is an  
example of a specialty jig that can be made to increase  
the safety of very narrow rip cuts.  
3
⁄
4
"
Hardwood  
Length  
of Fence  
1
⁄
2
"
Plywood  
Material Needed for Narrow Rip Auxiliary Fence & Push  
Block  
3"  
Hardwood 3⁄4" x 3" x Length of Fence.......................1  
Plywood 3⁄4" x 51⁄4" x Length of Fence......................1  
Wood Screws #8 x 11⁄2" .......................................8  
Length  
of Fence  
1
Material Needed for Push Block  
5 ⁄4  
"
Hardwood or Plywood 3⁄4" x 15" x 55⁄8" .....................1  
Hardwood or Plywood 3⁄4" x 10" x 5"–9" ....................1  
Wood Glue .................................................Varies  
Wood Screws #8 x 11⁄2" ............................ As Needed  
Figure 75. Auxiliary fence dimension.  
3⁄4" Hardwood  
Making a Narrow-Rip Push Block for an  
Auxiliary Fence  
Pilot Holes  
1⁄2" Plywood  
1. Cut a piece of 3⁄4" thick plywood 51⁄4" wide and as  
long as your table saw fence; cut a piece of 3⁄4  
"
thick hardwood 3" wide and as long as your table  
saw fence, as shown in Figure 75.  
Completed  
Fence  
Note: We recommend cutting the hardwood board  
oversize, then jointing and planing it to the correct  
size to make sure the board is square and flat. Only  
use furniture-grade plywood or kiln dried hardwood  
to prevent warping.  
Figure 76. Location of pilot holes.  
2. Pre-drill and countersink eight pilot holes 3⁄8" from  
the bottom of the 3" wide board, then secure the  
boards together with (8) #8 x 11⁄2" wood screws, as  
shown in Figure 76.  
5
5 ⁄8  
"
15"  
1
2 ⁄2  
"
Handle  
3⁄8  
"
3. Using the 3⁄4" material you used in the previous  
steps, cut out pieces for the push block per the  
dimensions shown in Figure 77; for the handle, cut  
a piece 10" long by 5"–9" high and shape it as desired  
to fit your hand.  
1
Lip  
5 ⁄4  
"
1
12 ⁄2  
"
3⁄8  
"
1
2 ⁄2  
"
3⁄8  
"
4. Attach the handle to the base with #8 x 11⁄2" wood  
screws, and attach the lip to the base with wood  
glue.  
Figure 77. Push block dimensions and  
construction.  
-49-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Auxilliary Fence  
Keep the blade guard installed and in the down  
position. Failure to do this could result in serious  
personal injury or death.  
Blade  
Workpiece  
Cutting  
Width  
Using the Auxiliary Fence and Push Block  
1. Place the auxiliary fence on the table and clamp it  
to the fence at both ends, then adjust the distance  
between the auxiliary fence and the blade—this  
determines how wide the workpiece will be ripped  
(see Figure 78).  
Figure 78. Adjusted distance between the  
blade and auxiliary fence.  
2. Install the blade guard, then secure the spreader  
pawls in the upright position, as shown in Figure 41  
on Page 29, so they do not interfere with the push  
block lip.  
Auxilliary Fence  
Blade  
Push Stick  
for Side  
Support  
Push  
3. Place the workpiece 1" behind the blade and evenly  
against the table and the auxiliary fence, as shown  
in Figure 79.  
4. Turn the saw ON, then begin ripping the workpiece  
Block  
using a push stick for side support.  
Workpiece  
5. As the workpiece nears the end of the cut, place  
the push block on the auxiliary fence with the lip  
directly behind the workpiece, then release the push  
stick just before the blade.  
Blade Path  
Figure 79. Setup in preparation for  
ripping.  
6. Guide the workpiece the rest of the way through the  
cut with the push block, as shown in Figure 80.  
Turn OFF the saw and allow the blade to come to  
a complete stop before removing the cut-off piece.  
Failure to follow this warning could result in serious  
personal injury.  
Release  
Push Stick  
Before Blade  
Figure 80. Performing the rip cut.  
-50-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Outfeed & Support Tables  
One of the best accessories for improving the safety and  
ease of using a table saw is simply placing a large table  
(outfeed table) behind the saw to catch the workpiece  
(see Figure 81). Additionally, another table to the left  
of the saw (support table) can also help support large  
workpieces so they can be cut safely and accurately.  
Support  
Table  
Outfeed  
Table  
Figure 81. Example of support and  
outfeed tables.  
Crosscut Sled  
A crosscut sled (see Figure 82) is a fantastic way to  
improve the safety and accuracy of crosscutting on the  
table saw. Most expert table saw operators use a crosscut  
sled when they have to crosscut a large volume of work,  
because the sled offers substantial protection against  
kickback when crosscutting.  
Crosscut  
Sled  
Figure 82. Example of a crosscut sled.  
-51-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
ACCESSORIES  
Table Saw Accessories  
The following table saw accessories may be available through your local Woodstock International Inc.  
Dealer. If you do not have a dealer in your area, these products are also available through online  
dealers. Please call or e-mail Woodstock International Inc. Customer Service to get a current listing of  
dealers at: 1-800-840-8420 or at sales@woodstockint.com.  
D2057—Heavy-Duty Mobile Base  
Shop Fox® Heavy-Duty Mobile Bases are designed to give users a stable  
and mobile platform upon which to mount machinery and equipment  
having a variety of base sizes and weights. The heavy-duty casters are  
arranged on outriggers allowing the machine to sit as low as possible  
and yet be extremely stable. Swivel casters on two corners provide  
excellent maneuverability. The unique two-piece retractable feet use  
rare earth magnets to allow the adjustment knob to turn while the  
foot pad is tight to the floor.  
W1727—1 HP Dust Collector  
Specifications: • 1 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase motor • 800 CFM air  
suction capacity • 5.67" static pressure • One 4" intake hole • 9"  
balanced steel, radial fin impeller • 2.1 cubic feet bag capacity • 153⁄4  
x 393⁄4" base on casters for portability • 2.5 micron bag filtration •  
Power coated paint for durability • 541⁄2" height with bag inflated.  
"
D2271—Shop Fox Roller Table  
Use this versatile roller table wherever you need extra workpiece  
support. Features all-steel welded construction and measures 19" x  
65". Comes with 9 ball bearing rollers and has four independently  
adjustable legs for any leveling requirement. Adjustable in height from  
63⁄8" to 41⁄8". 1,000 lb. capacity!  
-52-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
W1104—Yellow Board Buddy® Pair  
Feature clockwise turning wheels to maintain constant, even feeding  
pressure. If a kickback occurs, the wheels lock up and function as anti-  
kickback devices.  
W1105—Green Board Buddy® Pair  
Feature wheels that turn in both directions to function as bidirectional  
hold-downs.  
W1104—Orange Board Buddy® Pair  
Feature counterclockwise turning wheels to maintain constant, even  
feeding pressure. If a kickback occurs, the wheels lock up and function  
as anti-kickback devices.  
D3096—Shop Fox Featherboard  
Reduce the risk of kickback and achieve consistent feeding results  
with these Shop Fox featherboards. Fits standard 3⁄8" x 3⁄4" miter gauge  
slots.  
D3096  
D3122—Shop Fox Push Stick  
This essential safety item keeps hands at a safe distance from blades  
and cutters while still maintaining control of the workpiece against  
machine fences. A true necessity when running narrow stock. The  
D3122  
durable handle is designed for maximum control. Measures 131⁄2  
overall. Super ergonomic design!  
"
D3119—Board Straighteners™  
These Board Straighteners™ allow a board with a curved or crooked  
edge to attach to a board with a known straight edge. This stable  
arrangement can then be used against a table saw fence, which in turn  
transfers a straight-line cut to the crooked board. Board Straighteners™  
allow cutting a straight edge on boards that would otherwise be too  
dangerous to rip unaided.  
-53-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
MAINTENANCE  
Schedule  
For optimum performance from your machine, follow this  
maintenance schedule and refer to any specific instructions  
given in this section.  
;X`cpꢀ:_\Zb1  
•
•
•
•
Inspect blades for damage or wear.  
Check for loose mounting bolts/arbor nut.  
Check cords, plugs, and switch for damage.  
Check for the proper function of the blade guard  
(see Blade Guard Assembly on Page 28).  
Check for any other condition that could hamper the  
safe operation of this machine.  
Wipe the table clean after every use—this ensures  
moisture from wood dust does not remain on bare  
metal surfaces.  
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•
•
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•
•
•
Wipe down the table surface and grooves with a  
lubricant and rust preventive such as SLIPIT®.  
Vacuum dust buildup from the motor housing and  
trunnions.  
Clean the pitch and resin from the saw blade with a  
cleaner like OxiSolv® Blade & Bit Cleaner.  
Dfek_cpꢀDX`ek\eXeZ\1  
›ꢀ Check/tighten the belt tension (GX^\ꢀ,-).  
Cleaning  
Cleaning the Model W1824 is relatively easy. Vacuum  
excess wood chips and sawdust, and wipe off the  
remaining dust with a dry cloth. If any resin has built up,  
use a resin dissolving cleaner to remove it. After cleaning,  
treat all unpainted cast iron and steel with a non-staining  
lubricant.  
Occasionally it will become necessary to clean the  
internal parts with more than a vacuum. To do this,  
remove the table top and clean the internal parts with  
resin/pitch dissolver or mineral spirits and a stiff wire  
brush or steel wool. DO NOT USE WATER—WATER WILL  
CAUSE CAST IRON TO RUST.  
Make sure the internal workings are dry before using  
the saw again, so that wood dust will not accumulate.  
If any essential lubrication is removed during cleaning,  
re-lubricate those areas.  
-54-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Lubrication  
It is essential to clean components before lubricating  
them because dust and chips build up on these  
components and make them hard to move. Simply adding  
more grease to them will not yield smooth moving  
components.  
If you thoroughly clean the components in this section  
before lubricating them, the result will be silky smooth  
movement when turning the handwheels, which will result  
in much higher enjoyment on your part!  
Front  
Trunnion  
Slide  
Use mineral spirits, shop rags, and a stiff brush when  
cleaning these components, then let them thoroughly dry  
before applying the lubrication.  
Figure 83. Trunnion slide (front slide  
shown)  
Trunnion Slides  
Clean out the front and rear trunnion slides with mineral  
spirits and a rag, then apply lithium grease into each  
groove. Move the blade tilt back-and-forth to spread the  
grease (see Figure 83).  
Bull Gear  
Worm Gear, Bull Gear & Leadscrew  
Clean away any built up grime and debris from the  
worm gear, bull gear, and leadscrew (see Figures 84–85)  
with a wire brush, rags, and mineral spirits. Allow the  
components to dry, then apply a thin coat of white  
lithium grease to them.  
Worm Gear  
Figure 84. Location of the bull and worm  
gears.  
Leadscrew  
Figure 85. Location of the leadscrew.  
-55-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
SERVICE  
General  
This section covers the most common service adjustments  
or procedures that may need to be made during the life  
of your machine.  
If you require additional machine service not included  
in this section, please contact Woodstock International  
Technical Support at (360) 734-3482 or send e-mail to:  
k\Z_$jlggfik7j_fg]fo%Y`q.  
Belt Service  
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The drive belt stretches slightly with normal use of the  
saw. Most of the stretching will happen during the first 16  
hours of use, but it continues with time. If you notice that  
the belt is slipping, it will need to be tensioned. If the  
belt is cracked, frayed, or shows other signs of excessive  
wear, it will need to be replaced.  
Items Needed  
Qty  
Hex Wrench 6mm ...............................................1  
Replacement Ribbed V-Belt (Part No. X1824112)..........1  
Note: The replacement ribbed V-belt can be purchased  
from your authorized Shop Fox dealer.  
Tensioning Belt  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Raise the blade completely, then open the motor  
access cover.  
3. Loosen the motor mount cap screw shown in  
Figure 86, then pivot the motor up and down to  
make sure that it is loose.  
Belt  
4. Press down on the motor with one hand to keep the  
belt tension tight, then re-tighten the cap screw.  
Cap Screw  
Motor  
Figure 86. Motor mount cap screw.  
-56-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
5. Press the belt in the center to check belt tension.  
The belt is correctly tensioned when there is  
approximately 1⁄4" deflection as it is pushed with  
moderate pressure, as shown in Figure 87.  
Glcc\p  
;\]c\Zk`fe  
— If there is more than 1⁄4" deflection when the belt  
is pushed with moderate pressure, loosen the cap  
screw, push the motor downward, then re-tighten  
the cap screw.  
6. Close the motor access cover.  
Glcc\p  
Replacing Belt  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Figure 87. Check for proper belt tension.  
2. Lower the blade completely, then open the motor  
access cover.  
3. Loosen the motor mount cap screw that secures  
the motor (see Figure 86 on the previous page)  
and lift the motor fully to remove tension on the  
belt. Re-tighten the cap screw to hold the motor in  
this position, then roll the belt off of the arbor and  
motor pulleys.  
4. Install a new belt onto the pulleys, loosen the cap  
screw, then lower the motor. Use the blade elevation  
handwheel to raise the blade completely.  
5. Press down on the motor with one hand to keep the  
belt tension tight, then tighten the cap screw.  
6. Follow Step 5 in the previous Tensioning Belt  
procedure to check the V-belt tension.  
7. Close the motor access cover.  
-57-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Tilt Stop Collars  
The table saw features stop collars that halt the blade tilt  
exactly at 45° and 90°. The stop collars have been set at  
the factory and should require no adjustments, unless you  
notice that your cuts are not accurate.  
9cX[\  
0'—ꢀJhlXi\  
Note: The tilt scale reads "0" when the blade is 90° to the  
table.  
KXYc\  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
90° Square .......................................................1  
45° Square .......................................................1  
Hex Wrench 4mm ...............................................1  
Setting 90° Stop Collar  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Figure 88. Checking the blade at 90°.  
2. Raise the blade as high as it will go, then tilt it  
toward 0° until it stops and cannot be tilted any  
more.  
3. Place a 90° square against the table and blade so  
it contacts the blade evenly from bottom to top,  
as shown in Figure 88. Make sure the square is not  
contacting a blade tooth.  
Note: If adjustments are made to the 90° stop  
collar in the following steps, make sure the tilt  
indicator arrow shown in Figure 89 points to the  
0° mark on the scale when the table is at 90°  
with the blade. If it is not, loosen the button head  
screw that secures the indicator, then adjust it and  
re-tighten the screw.  
Tilt Indicator  
at 0°  
Figure 89. Tilt indicator and scale.  
— If the blade is 90° to the table, then adjustments  
do not need to be made.  
— If the blade is not 90° to the table, adjust the 90°  
stop collar and proceed to the next step.  
Trunnion  
Bracket  
Cap Screws  
4. Tilt the blade away from 0° by about 5°, so there is  
room for the 90° stop collar to move.  
5. Open the motor access cover, loosen the cap screws  
shown in Figure 90, then thread the 90° stop collar  
one turn away from the trunnion bracket. This will  
allow you to square the blade in the next step.  
90° Stop Collar  
Figure 90. 90° stop collar and cap screws.  
-58-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
6. Place a square against the blade, as illustrated in  
Figure 88 on the previous page, then adjust the  
blade until it is perfectly square to the table.  
7. Without turning the blade tilt leadscrew, finger-  
tighten the 90° collar against the trunnion bracket,  
then re-tighten the two cap screws to secure the  
collar position.  
8. Repeat Steps 2–3 to verify that the collar  
adjustment you made was correct. When the  
adjustment is satisfactory, close the motor access  
cover.  
Setting 45° Stop Collar  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
+,—ꢀJhlXi\  
2. Raise the blade as high as it will go, then tilt it  
towards 45° until it stops and cannot be tilted any  
more.  
9cX[\  
KXYc\  
3. Place a 45° square against the table and blade so  
it contacts the blade evenly from bottom to top, as  
shown in Figure 91. Make sure the square does not  
contact a blade tooth.  
— If the blade is 45° to the table, then adjustments  
do not need to be made.  
Figure 91. Checking the blade at 45°.  
— If the blade is not 45° to the table, adjust the 45°  
stop collar and proceed to the next step.  
Cap Screws  
4. Tilt the blade to 35°so the stop collar can move.  
5. Open the motor access cover, loosen the cap screws  
on the 45° stop collar (see Figure 92), then turn the  
collar one turn away from the trunnion bracket. This  
will allow you to adjust the blade to exactly 45° in  
the next step.  
Trunnion  
Bracket  
45° Stop  
Collar  
6. Place a 45° square against the blade, as shown in  
Figure 91, then adjust the blade until it is exactly  
45° to the table.  
Figure 92. 45° stop collar and cap screws.  
7. Without turning the blade tilt leadscrew, finger-  
tighten the 45° stop collar against the trunnion  
bracket, then tighten the two cap screws to secure  
the collar position.  
8. Repeat Steps 2–3 to verify that the collar  
adjustment you made was correct. When the  
adjustment is satisfactory, close the motor access  
cover.  
-59-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Miter Slot to Blade  
Parallelism  
Your table saw will give the best results if the miter slot  
and the rip fence are adjusted parallel to the blade. If  
either of these are not exactly parallel, your cuts and  
your finished work will be lower in quality, but more  
importantly, the risk of kickback will be increased.  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
Adjustable Square ..............................................1  
Marker ............................................................1  
Dead Blow Hammer.............................................1  
Hex Wrenches 3, 8 mm .................................1 Each  
To adjust the blade parallel to the miter slot, do these  
steps:  
STEP A  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Blade tilted to 90º  
2. Use the adjustable square to measure the distance  
from the miter slot to a carbide tip on the blade, as  
shown in Figure 93. Make sure that the face of the  
adjustable square is even along the miter slot.  
Front  
3. With the end of the adjustable square just touching  
the carbide tip, lock the measurement bar of the  
square in place. Now, mark the tip of the carbide tip  
with a marker where you made this measurement.  
A
Figure 93. Making the first slot-to-blade  
4. Rotate the marked blade tip to the other end of the  
measurement at 90°.  
table insert.  
5. Slide the adjustable square down to the other end  
of the table insert, and compare the distance from  
the marked blade tip to the end of the adjustable  
square, as shown in Figure 94.  
STEP B  
Blade tilted to 90º  
— If the blade tip measurement is the same on both  
sides, go to Step 11.  
— If the blade tip does not touch the end of the  
adjustable square in the same manner as in the  
first measurement, the table will need to be  
adjusted. Proceed to Step 6.  
Front  
B
Figure 94. Making the second slot-to-blade  
measurement at 90°.  
-60-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
6. Remove the six button head cap screws that secure  
the rear trunnion access panel (see Figure 95), then  
remove the panel and open the motor access cover  
to reach the trunnions.  
The trunnion and motor assembly could fall and crush  
your hands or arms if the trunnion mounting cap  
screws are loosened too much during the following  
steps. DO NOT remove the cap screws that secure  
the trunnions to the table or loosen them more than  
11⁄2 turns!  
Rear Trunnion  
Access Panel  
Figure 95. Location of the rear trunnion  
access panel.  
7. To adjust the table, loosen the two cap screws that  
secure the rear trunnion to the underside of the  
table 1–11⁄2 turns (see Figure 96), and slightly tap  
the trunnion with the dead blow hammer in the  
needed direction.  
8. Tighten the two cap screws, then repeat Steps 2–5  
to re-check the slot-to-blade parallelism.  
— If the measurement is the same from front-to-  
Rear Trunnion  
Cap Screw  
(1 of 2)  
back, skip ahead to Step 11.  
— If the adjustments you made in Step 7 were not  
enough to adjust the miter slot parallel to the  
blade, continue to Step 9.  
Figure 96. Location of the rear trunnion  
cap screw (1 of 2).  
9. Loosen the two cap screws that secure the front  
trunnion to the underside of the table (see  
Figure 97) and tap the trunnion in a similar manner  
as you did in Step 7.  
10. Tighten the two cap screws and recheck the miter  
slot-to-blade parallelism.  
— If the blade tip measurement is the same on both  
sides, continue to Step 11.  
— If the adjustments you made in Step 9 were not  
enough to adjust the miter slot parallel with  
the blade, continue adjusting the front and rear  
trunnions as needed until the miter slot and blade  
are parallel.  
Front Trunnion  
Cap Screw  
(1 of 2)  
Figure 97. Location of the front trunnion  
cap screw (1 of 2).  
-61-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
11. Tilt the blade to 45° and recheck the miter slot-to-  
blade parallelism.  
— If the blade is still parallel with the miter slot,  
no additional adjustments need to be made. Skip  
ahead to Step 15.  
Blade tilted to 45°  
— If the blade was parallel with the miter slot at 90°  
but not at 45°, continue to Step 12.  
#1  
12. Depending on the result of Step 11, loosen the front  
or rear trunnion cap screws 11⁄2 turns and remove  
one shim from each side of that trunnion.  
Front  
Trunnion  
A
B
#2  
— If the distance of A is greater than B, remove  
one shim from each side of the front trunnion  
(locations #1 and #2 in Figure 98).  
Figure 98. Locations of the front trunnion  
shims.  
— If the distance of B is greater than A, remove one  
shim from each side of the rear trunnion (locations  
#3 and #4 on Figure 99).  
13. Re-tighten the cap screws and re-check the blade-to-  
miter slot parallelism at 90° and 45°.  
Blade tilted to 45°  
— If the distance of A and B are equal, no further  
adjustments need to be made.  
#3  
— If the distances of A and B are not equal, repeat  
Rear  
Trunnion  
this entire procedure until they are.  
A
B
#4  
14. Once the miter slot is adjusted parallel to the blade,  
make sure that mounting fasteners are secure.  
15. Re-install the rear trunnion access panel and close  
Figure 99. Locations of the rear trunnion  
the motor access cover.  
shims.  
-62-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Spreader or Riving Knife  
Alignment  
Checking Alignment with Blade  
The blade guard spreader and riving knife must be aligned  
with the blade when installed. If the spreader/riving knife  
is not aligned with the blade, then the workpiece will  
before forced sideways during the cut, which will increase  
the risk of kickback.  
Tool Needed  
Qty  
Straightedge .....................................................1  
Top Alignment  
To check the spreader/riving knife alignment, do these  
steps:  
Riving  
Knife  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
Bottom Alignment  
Table  
2. Raise the saw blade to the maximum height so you  
have easy working access.  
3. Place the straightedge against the side of the blade  
and spreader/riving knife at the top and bottom, as  
illustrated in Figure 100. The spreader/riving knife  
should be parallel with the blade along its length  
at both positions, and in the "Alignment Zone," as  
shown in Figure 101.  
Figure 100. Checking riving knife-to-blade  
alignment.  
8c`^ed\ek  
Qfe\  
— If the spreader/riving knife is not parallel with  
the blade and inside the alignment zone, then it  
needs to be adjusted. Proceed to the Adjusting  
Alignment instructions on the next page.  
Jgi\X[\iꢀfiꢀ  
I`m`e^ꢀBe`]\  
9cX[\  
4. Remove the spreader/riving knife and place it on a  
flat surface and check to see if the spreader/riving  
knife lays evenly along its length.  
— If the spreader/riving knife does not lay evenly,  
proceed to Adjusting Bent Spreader/Riving Knife  
on the next page.  
Figure 101. The "Alignment Zone".  
-63-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Adjusting Alignment  
The spreader/riving knife mounting position can be  
adjusted into alignment with the blade using the cap  
screws on the spreader/riving knife "L" bracket.  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
Hex Wrench 5mm ...............................................1  
Straightedge .....................................................1  
To adjust the spreader/riving knife position, do these  
steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Remove the table insert.  
3. Loosen the two cap screws on the "L" bracket  
(see Figure 102), then adjust the position of the  
"L" bracket as necessary to correctly align the  
spreader/riving knife with the blade and into the  
"Alignment Zone".  
4. Re-tighten the two cap screws on the "L" bracket to  
secure the spreader/riving knife adjustment.  
Cap  
Screws  
Adjusting Bent Spreader/Riving Knife  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
L Bracket  
2. Remove the spreader/riving knife from the machine  
to straighten it. Check it to make sure it sits evenly  
on a flat surface.  
Figure 102. Location of the L-bracket.  
— If you cannot straighten it properly, replace it.  
-64-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Fence Adjustments  
There are four main adjustments for the fence: 1) Height  
off the table, 2) squareness, 3) parallelism with the miter  
slot, and 4) clamping pressure. These adjustments are  
interconnected and some repetition may be needed when  
adjusting.  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
Hex Wrench 6mm ...............................................1  
Square ............................................................1  
Felt-Tipped Marker .............................................1  
Rear Set  
Screws  
Fence  
Flange  
Height and Squareness  
The fence should be adjusted high enough off the table  
so that it does not drag across the surface or allow wood  
chips to get caught between the fence and table. Also,  
the fence face must be square to the table in order to  
produce accurate cuts.  
Front Thumb Knobs  
and Set Screws  
To check/adjust the fence height and squareness to the  
table, do these steps:  
Figure 103. Locations of front thumb  
knobs and front and rear set screws.  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Remove the fence from the saw and place it on a  
flat surface.  
Top  
3. Unscrew the front thumb knobs and set screws  
shown in Figure 103 until they are barely threaded  
into the fence flange.  
Top Set Screws  
Lock Nut  
4. Back out the rear set screws until they are just  
barely threaded into the fence flange (see Figure  
103).  
Rear Rail  
Fence  
Foot  
Flange  
5. Install the fence onto the table.  
6. Loosen the top lock nuts on the fence flange and the  
lock nut on the rear rail foot (see Figure 104).  
Figure 104. Fence components used to  
adjust fence height and squareness.  
7. Adjust the top set screws and rear foot set screw so  
there is approximately 1⁄16" clearance between the  
bottom of the fence and the table, front-to-back and  
side-to-side, then re-tighten the lock nuts.  
-65-  
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8. Place a square on the table and against the face of  
the fence, as shown in Figure 105, to check if the  
fence is square to the table.  
0'—ꢀJhlXi\  
=\eZ\  
KXYc\  
— If the fence is square to the table, proceed to  
Parallelism & Clamping Pressure below.  
— If the fence is not square to the table, continue  
with Step 8.  
9. Loosen the top lock nuts and adjust the top set  
screws (see Figure 105) to make the fence face 90°  
to the table, then re-tighten the lock nuts.  
Figure 105. Check if the fence is square  
to the table.  
Parallelism & Clamping Pressure  
Set screws on the rear side of the fence flange position  
the fence parallel to the blade and adjust the clamping  
pressure to hold your fence securely. Before starting this  
procedure, make sure the blade is parallel with the miter  
slot.  
To adjust the fence parallelism and clamping pressure,  
do these steps:  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Lock the fence in place, then tap the front side with  
your hand and check to see if it moved sideways  
over the table.  
— If the fence did not move, proceed to Step 6.  
— If the fence moved, remove it from the table and  
continue with Step 3.  
3. Turn each rear set screw in 1⁄ th  
103 on the previous page).  
6
of a turn (see Figure  
4. Re-install the fence and repeat Step 3.  
-66-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
5. Slide the fence up against the right-hand edge of the  
miter slot, as shown in Figure 106, then lock it in  
place.  
Flush  
Side View  
(Correct)  
Fence  
Miter Face  
Slots  
6. Examine how the fence lines up with the miter slot  
A
along its length.  
— If the fence and miter slot are flush from front  
to rear, as shown in Figure 106 (A), proceed to  
Step 9.  
B
Top View  
Overlap  
Side View  
(Incorrect)  
— If the rear of the fence overlaps the miter slot, as  
shown in Figure 106 (B), the fence is misaligned.  
Proceed to Step 8.  
Figure 106. Aligning the fence to the  
7. Remove the fence, then alternately loosen and  
tighten the rear fence set screws in equal amounts  
to adjust the rear of the fence until it is parallel  
with the miter slot.  
miter slot.  
8. Loosen both front thumb knobs (see Figure 103 on  
Page 65). Tighten the set screws so they just touch  
the fence tube, back off the set screws 1⁄2 turn,  
then re-tighten the thumb knobs.  
Optional Offset Fence Adjustment  
Some woodworkers prefer to offset the rear of the fence  
1⁄64" from the blade, as shown in Figure 107.  
Oꢀ4ꢀPfliꢀD\Xjli\d\ek  
The reason for this wider gap at the back side of the  
blade is to help prevent the chance of kickback or  
the blade burning the workpiece because it may be  
inconsistent in width. However, the trade-off is less  
accurate cuts, and if the fence is placed on the other side  
of the blade for other table saw operations, the potential  
of workpiece burning or kickback can be increased.  
Whenever using a fence, make sure that if an offset has  
been adjusted in the fence alignment, you use the fence  
on the side of the blade where the offset creates the  
wide gap.  
Oꢁꢀ"ꢀ(&-+ꢁ  
Oꢁ  
<okiXꢀJgXZ\  
kfꢀGi\m\ekꢀ9`e[`e^  
Figure 107. Adjusting the fence with an  
1⁄64" offset.  
-67-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Miter Gauge Adjustments  
The miter gauge is equipped with stop screws that allow  
you to easily adjust the miter gauge 0°– 30° left, 90°, and  
0°–45° right. The stop screws contact the shaft, which  
moves in or out of the way for adjustments.  
Tools Needed  
Qty  
Phillips Head Screwdriver .....................................1  
90° Square .......................................................1  
45° Square .......................................................1  
30° Square .......................................................1  
Wrench 8mm.....................................................1  
Checking/Setting 90° Stops  
1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!  
2. Slide the miter gauge into the T-slot on the table,  
then adjust the gauge so the 90° stop screw rests  
against the sliding shaft.  
JhlXi\  
3. Place the square evenly against the face of the miter  
gauge and the blade, as shown in Figure 108.  
9cX[\  
— If the square touches the miter gauge and the  
blade (not the teeth) evenly at the same time,  
then it is square to the blade and the 90° stop  
is set correctly. No further adjustments are  
necessary.  
D`k\iꢀ>Xl^\  
Figure 108. Checking the 90° miter gauge  
— If the square does not touch the miter gauge and  
blade evenly at the same time, then proceed to  
Step 4.  
stop.  
T-Slot Bar  
4. Loosen the hex nut (jam nut) that secures the 90°  
stop screw (see Figure 109), and adjust the stop  
screw until it is seated against the shaft while the  
square is evenly touching the miter body and the  
blade body, then tighten the hex nut.  
5. Loosen the screw on the front of the miter bar,  
adjust the pointer to 0°, then tighten the screw.  
Hex Nut &  
90° Stop Screw  
Checking/Setting 45° Stops  
Follow the same process with the 45° and 30° stops that  
you followed with the 90°, except using a 45° and 30°  
square or adjustable square to verify that the miter body  
is 45° and 30° to the blade, as shown in Figure 109.  
Figure 109. Miter gauge components.  
-68-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Electrical Safety Instructions  
These pages are current at the time of printing. However, in the spirit of improvement, we may  
make changes to the electrical systems of future machines. Study this diagram carefully. If you notice  
differences between your machine and these wiring diagrams, call Woodstock International Technical  
Support at (360) 734-3482.  
(%ꢀ J?F:Bꢀ?8Q8I;% Working on wiring that is  
connected to a power source is extremely  
dangerous. Touching electrified parts will  
result in personal injury including but not  
limited to severe burns, electrocution,  
or death. Disconnect the power from  
the machine before servicing electrical  
components!  
,%ꢀ DFKFIꢀN@I@E>% The motor wiring shown  
in these diagrams is current at the time  
of printing, but it may not match your  
machine. Always use the wiring diagram  
inside the motor junction box.  
-%ꢀ DF;@=@:8K@FEJ% Using aftermarket parts or  
modifying the wiring beyond what is shown  
in the diagram may lead to unpredictable  
results, including serious injury or fire.  
)%ꢀ HL8C@=@<;ꢀ<C<:KI@:@8E% Due to the  
inherent hazards of electricity, only a  
qualified electrician should perform wiring  
tasks on this machine. If you are not a  
qualified electrician, get help from one  
before attempting any kind of wiring job.  
.%ꢀ :8G8:@KFIJ&@EM<IK<IJ% Some capacitors  
and power inverters store an electrical  
charge for up to five minutes after being  
disconnected from the power source. To  
avoid being shocked, wait at least this long  
before working on these components.  
*%ꢀ N@I<ꢀ:FEE<:K@FEJ% All connections must  
be tight to prevent wires from loosening  
during machine operation. Double-check all  
wires disconnected or connected during any  
wiring task to ensure tight connections.  
/%ꢀ <C<:KI@:8CꢀI<HL@I<D<EKJ% You MUST  
follow the electrical requirements at the  
beginning of this manual when connecting  
your machine to a power source.  
+%ꢀ N@I<&:FDGFE<EKꢀ;8D8><% Damaged  
wires or components increase the risk of  
serious personal injury, fire, or machine  
damage. If you notice that any wires or  
components are damaged while performing  
a wiring task, replace those wires or  
0%ꢀ <OG<I@<E:@E>ꢀ;@==@:LCK@<J% If you are  
experiencing difficulties understanding  
the information included in this section,  
contact our Technical Support at (360) 734-  
3482.  
components before completing the task.  
WIRING DIAGRAM COLOR KEY  
BLACK  
WHITE  
GREEN  
RED  
BLUE  
YELLOW  
LIGHT  
BLUE  
The photos and diagrams  
included in this section are  
best viewed in color. You  
can view these pages in  
color at www.shopfox.biz.  
YELLOW  
BROWN  
GRAY  
BLUE  
GREEN  
WHITE  
PURPLE  
PINK  
TUR-  
QUOISE  
ORANGE  
-69-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Wiring Diagram  
Read  
Page 69  
STOP  
SWITCH  
BOX  
Before  
Wiring  
ON/OFF  
SWITCH  
110 VAC  
220 VAC  
5-20 Plug  
6-20 PLUG  
(As Recommended)  
Ground  
Neutral  
>
Load  
KEDU HY56  
20A 250V  
35A 125V  
Line  
Hot  
Hot  
Hot  
<gdjcY  
Ground  
Rewired for 110V  
Start  
Run  
Capacitor  
200MFD  
250VAC  
Capacitor  
60MFD  
300VAC  
110V/220V  
MOTOR  
Motor Rewired  
for 110V  
Motor Prewired  
for 220V  
<gdjcY  
<gdjcY  
Rewired for 110V  
-70-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Electrical Components  
Capacitors  
Junction Box  
Figure 110. Motor capacitor location.  
Figure 111. Motor junction box location.  
Circuit  
Breaker  
ON/OFF  
Switch  
Figure 112. Switch location.  
-71-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Troubleshooting  
This section covers the most common problems and corrections with this type of  
machine. WARNING! DO NOT make any adjustments until power is disconnected and  
moving parts have come to a complete stop!  
GIF9C<D  
GFJJ@9C<ꢀ:8LJ<  
:FII<:K@M<ꢀ8:K@FE  
Machine does not start or  
a breaker trips.  
1. Locking pin installed.  
2. Blown fuse.  
1. Remove locking pin from START button.  
2. Replace fuse/ensure no shorts.  
3. Wall circuit breaker tripped.  
3. Ensure circuit size is correct/replace weak breaker.  
4. Power supply switched OFF or at 4. Ensure power supply is on/has correct voltage.  
fault.  
5. Plug/receptacle at fault/wired 5. Test for good contacts; correct the wiring.  
wrong.  
6. Motor connection wired wrong.  
7. Wiring open/has high resistance.  
6. Correct motor wiring connections (see Page 70).  
7. Check/fix broken, disconnected, or corroded wires.  
8. Motor START/STOP switch at fault. 8. Replace switch.  
9. Start capacitor at fault.  
10. Motor at fault.  
9. Test/replace if faulty.  
10. Test/repair/replace.  
Machine stalls or is under- 1. Feed rate/cutting speed too fast.  
powered.  
1. Decrease feed rate/cutting speed.  
2. Workpiece material unsuitable for 2. Only cut wood/ensure moisture is below 20%.  
machine.  
3. Workpiece crooked; fence mis- 3. Straighten or replace workpiece/adjust fence.  
adjusted.  
4. Machine undersized for task; wrong 4. Use correct blade/reduce feed rate or depth of  
blade.  
cut.  
5. Run capacitor at fault.  
6. Belt slipping.  
7. Motor wired incorrectly.  
8. Plug/receptacle at fault.  
9. Pulley/sprocket slipping on shaft.  
10. Motor bearings at fault.  
5. Test/repair/replace.  
6. Tension/replace belt (see Page 56).  
7. Wire motor correctly (see Page 70).  
8. Test for good contacts/correct wiring.  
9. Replace loose pulley/shaft.  
10. Test/repair/replace.  
11. Contactor not energized/has poor 11. Test all legs for power/replace if faulty.  
contacts.  
12. Motor overheated.  
13. Motor at fault.  
12. Clean motor, let cool, and reduce workload.  
13. Test/repair/replace.  
Machine has vibration or 1. Motor or component loose.  
noisy operation.  
1. Inspect/replace damaged bolts/nuts, and re-tighten  
with thread locking fluid.  
2. Blade at fault.  
3. Belts worn or loose.  
4. Pulley loose.  
5. Motor mount loose/broken.  
6. Machine incorrectly mounted.  
7. Arbor pulley loose.  
2. Replace warped/bent blade; resharpen dull blade.  
3. Tension/replace belts (see Page 56).  
4. Realign/replace shaft, pulley, setscrew, and key.  
5. Tighten/replace.  
6. Tighten mounting bolts; relocate/shim machine.  
7. Retighten/replace arbor pulley.  
8. Motor fan rubbing on fan cover.  
9. Arbor bearings at fault.  
10. Motor bearings at fault.  
8. Fix/replace fan cover; replace loose/damaged fan.  
9. Replace arbor housing bearings; replace arbor.  
10. Test by rotating shaft; grinding/loose shaft requires  
bearing replacement.  
-72-  
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GIF9C<D  
GFJJ@9C<ꢀ:8LJ<  
:FII<:K@M<ꢀ8:K@FE  
Blade is not aligned with  
miter slot or fence.  
1. Blade is warped.  
2. Table top is not parallel to blade.  
3. Fence is not parallel to blade.  
1. Replace blade (see Page 27).  
2. Make miter slot parallel to blade (see Page 6
3. Make fence parallel to blade (see Page 66).  
Blade does not reach 90°. 1. 90° stop collar is out of adjust- 1. Adjust 90° stop collar (see Page 58).  
ment.  
2. Sawdust stuck on stop collar.  
2. Clean sawdust off stop collar.  
Blade hits insert at 45°.  
1. 45° stop collar is out of adjust- 1. Adjust 45° stop collar (see Page 59).  
ment.  
2. Sawdust stuck on stop collar.  
3. Slot in insert is inadequate.  
4. Table out of alignment.  
2. Clean sawdust off stop collar.  
3. File or mill the slot in the insert.  
4. Align miter slot to the blade (see Page 60).  
5. Adjust blade position.  
5. Blade position is incorrect.  
Board binds or burns when 1. Dull blade.  
1. Replace blade (see Page 27).  
feeding through table saw.  
2. Blade is warped.  
2. Replace blade (see Page 27).  
3. Fence is not parallel to blade.  
4. Table top is not parallel to blade.  
3. Make fence parallel to blade (see Page 65).  
4. Make miter slot parallel to blade (see Page 60).  
-73-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
PARTS  
Cabinet & Table  
('  
0
/
.
+
,
*
)
(
)
+
*
).  
(
((  
()  
)*  
))  
)(  
(*  
)-  
),  
)(  
*(  
))  
*'  
)0  
)/  
(+  
(,  
)+  
)*  
))  
)(  
(-  
(.  
(/  
(0  
)'  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
EXTENSION WING  
CAP SCREW M10-1.5 X 25  
LOCK WASHER 10MM  
FLAT WASHER 10MM  
TABLE  
FLAT HD SCR M5-.8 X 10  
MAGNET  
STANDARD TABLE INSERT  
DADO TABLE INSERT  
MOTOR ACCESS DOOR  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 12  
LOCK WASHER 6MM  
FLAT WASHER 6MM  
CABINET BOTTOM PLATE  
FLAT WASHER 5MM  
LOCK WASHER 5MM  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 8  
DUST HOOD 4" OD  
LEADSCREW EXTERNAL BRACKET  
REAR ACCESS PLATE  
LEADSCREW INTERNAL BRACKET  
HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 25  
LOCK WASHER 8MM  
1
2
3
4
X1824001  
XPCAP64M  
XPLW06M  
XPW04M  
17  
18  
19  
20  
21  
22  
23  
24  
25  
26  
27  
28  
29  
30  
31  
XPS14M  
XPLW03M  
XPW03M  
X1824020  
XPW02M  
XPLW01M  
XPS05M  
X1819124  
X1824025  
X1824026  
X1824027  
XPB07M  
5
7
8
9
10  
11  
12  
13  
14  
15  
16  
X1824005  
XPFH07M  
X1824008  
X1824009  
X1824010  
X1824011  
XPTLW13M INT TOOTH WASHER 6MM  
X1819115  
X1824014  
X1824015  
X1824016  
KNOB M6-1 X 16  
ANGLE SCALE  
STRAIN RELIEF  
CABINET  
XPLW04M  
XPW01M  
XPS06M  
FLAT WASHER 8MM  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 20  
-74-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Trunnion & Switch Breakdown  
()'  
()(  
()*  
((/  
((.  
((,  
((-  
('0  
('/  
((0  
(()  
((*  
((+  
('+  
(')  
(('  
('(  
('.  
())  
('-$(  
('-$-  
()+  
('*  
(',  
('-  
(/+  
()- (),  
('-$,  
()/  
(((  
().  
('-$)  
(+-  
('-$+  
('-$*  
(+,  
(++  
(+*  
(+.  
(+/  
(+0  
(*-  
(*,  
(*+  
(,'  
(*.  
(+,  
(+-  
(+)  
(*/  
(,+  
(*(  
(**  
()0  
(+(  
(+'  
(*'  
(,)  
(,*  
(+,  
(*0  
(,,  
(,-  
(,.  
(/(  
(*,  
(*+  
(**  
(++  
(**  
(,0  
(-*  
(*)  
(-(  
(/.  
(*'  
(/.  
(,(  
(,/  
(-'  
(-)  
()*  
(/'  
(.,  
(,.  
(-+  
(.)  
(++  
(/,  
(.(  
(.'  
(-/  
(,.  
(--  
(-.  
(..  
(/-  
(.+  
(-0  
(//  
(.'  
(./  
(.-  
(.0  
(+,  
(.*  
(-,  
(-+  
(-,  
(/0  
(/)  
(/*  
)((  
)('  
)()  
(-*  
)'/  
)'-  
)'0  
)'.  
)',  
)'*  
)')  
)'(  
)(*  
)'+$(  
)'+  
-75-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Trunnion & Switch Parts List  
REF PART #  
101 XPB03M  
DESCRIPTION  
REF PART #  
150 X1824150  
151 X1824151  
152 XPSS26M  
153 XPR32M  
154 X1824154  
155 X1824155  
156 X1824156  
DESCRIPTION  
HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 16  
102 XPLW04M LOCK WASHER 8MM  
LOCKING PLATE  
KEYED LOCK WASHER  
SET SCREW M5-.8 X 6  
EXT RETAINING RING 48MM  
BLADE 10" X 40T  
BLADE FLANGE  
103 XPLN07M  
104 XPW01M  
105 XPW08M  
LOCK NUT M16-2  
FLAT WASHER 8MM  
FLAT WASHER 16MM  
106 X1824106 MOTOR 2HP 110V/220V 1PH  
106-1 X1824106-1 MOTOR FAN COVER  
ARBOR NUT  
106-2 X1824106-2 MOTOR FAN  
157 XPCAP04M CAP SCREW M6-1 X 10  
106-3 X1824106-3 MOTOR JUNCTION BOX  
106-4 X1824106-4 R CAPACITOR 60M 300V 1-3/4 X 4  
106-5 X1824106-5 S CAPACITOR 200M 250V 1-3/4 X 2-1/2  
106-6 X1824106-6 CAPACITOR COVER  
158 X1824158  
159 X1824159  
160 X1824160  
161 XPEC02M  
162 X1824162  
163 X1824163  
164 X1824164  
165 X1824165  
166 X1824166  
167 XPEC10M  
168 X1824168  
169 X1824169  
170 XPRP42M  
171 X1824171  
172 X1824172  
173 XPS14M  
LOWER BLADE GUARD  
PIN  
SPRING RETAINING SCREW  
E-CLIP 4MM  
EXTENSION SPRING  
HANDWHEEL  
HANDWHEEL LOCK KNOB  
HANDWHEEL HANDLE  
BEVEL PLATE  
107 XPLN09  
108 XPK07M  
LOCK NUT M12-1.75  
KEY 6 X 6 X 20  
109 X1824109 ARBOR PULLEY  
110 X1824110 MOTOR PULLEY  
111 XPSS01M  
SET SCREW M6-1 X 10  
112 X1824112 RIBBED V-BELT 6PJ-365  
113 X1824113 ARBOR SPACER  
E-CLIP 9MM  
HANDWHEEL SPACER  
HANDWHEEL BUSHING  
ROLL PIN 3 X 20  
BLADE TILT SHAFT  
BLADE TILT SHAFT BASE  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 12  
POINTER BASE  
E-CLIP 12MM  
POINTER  
FLAT WASHER 4MM  
114 XP6202-2RS BALL BEARING 6202-2RS  
115 X1824115 MOTOR BRACKET  
116 X1824116 COMPRESSION SPRING  
117 X1824117 ARBOR LOCKING BUSHING  
118 X1824118 LOCKING PIN W/KNOB  
119 X1824119 BEVEL STOP SUPPORT  
174 X1824174  
175 XPEC12M  
176 X1824176  
177 XPW05M  
120 XPW02M  
FLAT WASHER 5MM  
121 XPLW01M LOCK WASHER 5MM  
122 X1824122 LOCKING PIN KNOB  
123 XPBHS06M BUTTON HD CAP SCR M5-.8 X 12  
124 X1824124 ARBOR  
178 XPBHS27M BUTTON HD CAP SCR M4-.7 X 8  
179 X1824179  
180 X1824180  
181 X1824181  
182 X1824182  
183 X1824183  
184 X1824184  
185 X1824185  
186 X1824186  
ELEVATION SHAFT  
ELEVATION SHAFT SPACER  
FRONT TRUNNION  
HANDWHEEL BUSHING  
COMPRESSION SPRING  
WAVY WASHER  
90 DEG LOCK COLLAR  
45 DEG LOCK COLLAR  
125 XPK20M  
KEY 5 X 5 X 15  
126 XP6203-2RS BALL BEARING 6203-2RS  
127 XPCAP29M CAP SCREW M6-1 X 40  
128 XPN01M  
129 XPCAP90M CAP SCREW M10-1.5 X 55  
130 XPN02M HEX NUT M10-1.5  
HEX NUT M6-1  
131 X1824131 MAIN TRUNNION  
132 X1824132 TRUNNION PIVOT SHAFT  
187 XPCAP24M CAP SCREW M5-.8 X 16  
133 XPB177M  
134 XPLW06M LOCK WASHER 10MM  
135 XPW04M FLAT WASHER 10MM  
HEX BOLT M10-1.25 X 30  
188 XPW06M  
189 XPW08M  
201 XPHTEK34M TAP SCREW M3 X 16  
FLAT WASHER 12MM  
FLAT WASHER 16MM  
136 X1824136 SHIM  
137 X1824137 REAR TRUNNION  
138 X1824138 SPACER  
202 X1824202  
203 X1824203  
204 X1824204  
SWITCH ASSEMBLY  
SWITCH BOX  
PUSH BTN CIRCUIT BREAKER 10A  
139 X1824139 SPRING PLATE  
204-1 X1824204-1 PUSH BTN CIRCUIT BREAKER 20A  
140 XPLN02M  
141 X1824141 MOUNTING PLATE  
142 X1824142 BRACKET  
143 X1824143 KNURLED KNOB  
144 XPW03M  
LOCK NUT M5-.8  
205 X1824205  
206 XPS05M  
207 XPLW01M  
208 XPW02M  
209 X1824209  
CIRCUIT BREAKER RETAINING NUT  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 8  
LOCK WASHER 5MM  
FLAT WASHER 5MM  
RING CONNECTOR  
FLAT WASHER 6MM  
145 XPLW03M LOCK WASHER 6MM  
146 XPCAP02M CAP SCREW M6-1 X 20  
147 X1824147 COMPRESSION SPRING  
148 X1824148 LOCKING PLATE SPACER  
149 X1824149 LOCKING PIN  
210 XPTLW02M EXT TOOTH WASHER 5MM  
211 X1824211 SWITCH PLATE  
212 XPHTEK15M TAP SCREW M4 X 10  
213 X1824213 STRAIN RELIEF  
-76-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Blade Guard  
*).  
**(  
*+(  
*)-  
*)/  
**/  
**.  
*+/  
**0  
*))  
**-  
*+/  
*+/  
**0  
*)(  
*,+  
*+'  
*)+  
*+'  
*)+  
*,,  
*)*  
*)(  
**)  
*+/  
*+0  
*+/  
**,  
*+)  
**,  
**-  
*+,  
*(0  
**(  
*(,  
*+,  
*+0  
*,*  
*,'  
*,)  
*+/  
*+-  
*,(  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
ROLL PIN 4 X 20  
TORSION SPRING  
LOCK NUT M6-1  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
HEX BOLT M4-.7 X 8  
X1819432V2 GUARD SUPPORT  
315  
319  
321  
322  
323  
324  
326  
327  
328  
331  
332  
335  
336  
337  
338  
XPRP39M  
X1819419  
XPLN03M  
X1819422V2 BLADE GUARD BASE  
XPS47M  
XPW03M  
X1819426  
XPS17M  
X1819428  
X1819431V2 SIDE GUARD  
339  
340  
341  
342  
345  
346  
348  
349  
350  
351  
352  
353  
354  
355  
XPB122M  
XPS62M  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 30  
X1819442V2 INNER PAWL SPACER  
X1819445  
XPS06M  
XPW02M  
X1819449  
X1819450V2 SPLITTER  
X1819451  
X1819452V2 HOOK PLATE PIN  
X1819453  
XPB11M  
XPS531M  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 25  
FLAT WASHER 6MM  
TOP GUARD  
PHLP HD SCR M4-.7 X 6  
FRONT GUARD  
OUTER PAWL SPACER  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 20  
FLAT WASHER 5MM  
PAWL  
RIVING KNIFE  
X1819456  
XPLN02M  
XPS38M  
GUARD CLAMP  
LOCK NUT M5-.8  
PHLP HD SCR M4-.7 X 10  
ROLL PIN 6 X 32  
RIVING KNIFE HOOK PLATE  
HEX BOLT M5-.8 X 8  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 35  
XPRP107M  
X1819454V2 THREADED INSERT M5-.8 X 12  
-77-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Fence/Rails/Miter Gauge Breakdown  
,(0  
,(/  
,(.  
,(-  
,(-  
,(.  
,)'  
,')  
,',  
,(*  
,')  
,'*  
,(+  
,'+  
,(,  
+'(  
+')  
+'*  
,'*  
,'.  
,')  
+'+  
,'(  
,'-  
+',  
+'-  
,()  
,('  
,'/  
,'0  
+'.  
+'/  
,((  
+'0  
+('  
+((  
+()  
+(*  
+(,  
+(-  
+(+  
-'-  
-'.  
-'(  
-'+  
-'/  
-'*  
-')  
-',  
-'-  
-',  
-'-  
-'/  
-'.  
-'-  
-(0  
-(/  
-(.  
-(*  
-'-  
-'.  
-'/  
-(-  
-*'  
-(,  
-(-  
-(+  
-'0  
-((  
-('  
-()  
-(*  
-78-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Fence/Rails/Miter Gauge Parts List  
REF PART # DESCRIPTION  
401 X1824401 MITER GAUGE HANDLE CAP  
402 X1824402 MITER GUAGE HANDLE  
403 X1824403 SPACER  
REF PART #  
513 XPS22M  
514 XPLW01M  
515 X1824515  
516 X1824516  
517 XPS11M  
518 X1824518  
519 X1824519  
520 XPSS32M  
601 X1824601  
602 XPW04M  
603 XPLW06M  
604 XPCAP64M  
605 XPCAP40M  
606 XPW01M  
607 XPLW04M  
608 XPN03M  
609 X1824609  
610 XPW03M  
611 XPLW03M  
DESCRIPTION  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 25  
LOCK WASHER 5MM  
FENCE SCALE WINDOW  
FENCE FACE HDPE  
PHLP HD SCR M6-1 X 16  
FENCE BASE  
FENCE CAP 50 X 50MM  
SET SCREW M12-1.75 X 30  
REAR RAIL  
FLAT WASHER 10MM  
LOCK WASHER 10MM  
CAP SCREW M10-1.5 X 25  
CAP SCREW M8-1.25 X 35  
FLAT WASHER 8MM  
LOCK WASHER 8MM  
HEX NUT M8-1.25  
404 X1824404 MITER GAUGE  
405 XPN06M  
406 XPS06M  
407 XPS38M  
HEX NUT M5-.8  
PHLP HD SCR M5-.8 X 20  
PHLP HD SCR M4-.7 X 10  
408 X1824408 MITER GAUGE PIVOT PIN  
409 XPW05M FLAT WASHER 4MM  
410 X1824410 POINTER  
411 X1824411 POINTER BLOCK  
412 X1824412 STOP PIN  
413 X1824413 MITER GAUGE BAR  
414 XPFH19M FLAT HD SCR M4-.7 X 10  
415 X1824415 ROLLER WHEEL  
416 XPFH04M FLAT HD SCR M6-1.0 X 8  
501 X1819604 FENCE GLIDE PAD  
502 X1819621 KNURLED LOCK NUT M12-1.75  
503 XPSS109M NYLON INSERT SET SCR M12-1.75 X 15  
504 X1819611 SET SCREW M12-1 X 10  
FRONT RAIL  
FLAT WASHER 6MM  
LOCK WASHER 6MM  
612 XPCAP115M BUTTON HD CAP SCR M6-1 X 16  
505 XPB47M  
506 X1819616 CAM FOOT  
507 XPLN03M LOCK NUT M6-1  
508 XPB22M  
509 X1819618 CAM LEVER  
510 X1819617 MAGNET  
511 X1824511 FENCE LOCK KNOB  
512 XPLN10M LOCK NUT M10-1.25  
HEX BOLT M6-1 X 40  
613 X1824613  
614 X1819703  
615 X1824615  
616 XPFH36M  
617 XPBHS06M  
618 XPW02M  
619 XPLW01M  
630 X1824630  
RAIL CAP 40 X 50  
SCALE  
FENCE RAIL  
FLAT HD SCR M8-1.25 X 35  
BUTTON HD CAP SCR M5-.8 X 12  
FLAT WASHER 5MM  
LOCK WASHER 5MM  
EXTENSION TABLE  
HEX BOLT M8-1.25*50  
-79-  
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Df[\cꢀN(/)+ꢀ('ꢁꢀ?pYi`[ꢀKXYc\ꢀJXn  
Label Placement  
701  
711  
712  
710  
709 708  
702  
703  
706  
707  
705  
704  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
BLADE GUARD LABEL  
REF PART #  
DESCRIPTION  
TABLE SAW WARNING LABEL  
701  
702  
703  
704  
705  
706  
X1824701  
707  
708  
709  
710  
711  
712  
X1824707  
XLABEL-06A GLASSES/RESPIRATOR LABEL  
D3377  
X1824704  
X1824705  
XLABEL-12 READ MANUAL LABEL  
XLABEL-07 DISCONNECT POWER LABEL  
XLABEL-05 KEEP DOOR CLOSED LABEL  
XLABEL-04 ELECTRICITY LABEL  
X1824711  
X1824712  
SHOP FOX NAMEPLATE  
MODEL NUMBER  
MACHINE ID LABEL  
RIVING KNIFE CAUTION LABEL  
FENCE LABEL  
JX]\kpꢀcXY\cjꢀnXieꢀXYflkꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀ_XqXi[jꢀXe[ꢀ_fnꢀkfꢀgi\m\ekꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀ[XdX^\ꢀfiꢀ`ealip%ꢀK_\ꢀ  
fne\iꢀf]ꢀk_`jꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀDLJKꢀdX`ekX`eꢀk_\ꢀfi`^`eXcꢀcfZXk`feꢀXe[ꢀi\X[XY`c`kpꢀf]ꢀXccꢀcXY\cjꢀfeꢀk_`jꢀ  
dXZ_`e\%ꢀ@]ꢀXepꢀcXY\cꢀ`jꢀi\dfm\[ꢀfiꢀY\Zfd\jꢀlei\X[XYc\#ꢀI<GC8:<ꢀk_XkꢀcXY\cꢀY\]fi\ꢀXccfn`e^ꢀk_\ꢀ  
dXZ_`e\ꢀkfꢀ\ek\iꢀj\im`Z\ꢀX^X`e%ꢀ:fekXZkꢀNff[jkfZbꢀ@ek\ieXk`feXc#ꢀ@eZ%ꢀXkꢀ(*-')ꢀ.*+$*+/)ꢀfiꢀnnn%  
j_fg]fokffcj%Zfdꢀkfꢀfi[\iꢀe\nꢀcXY\cj%ꢀ  
-80-  
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FOLD ALONG DOTTED LINE  
Place  
Stamp  
Here  
NFF;JKF:Bꢀ@EK<IE8K@FE8Cꢀ@E:%ꢀ  
G%F%ꢀ9FOꢀ)*'0ꢀ  
9<CC@E>?8D#ꢀN8ꢀ0/)).$)*'0  
FOLD ALONG DOTTED LINE  
TAPE ALONG EDGES--PLEASE DO NOT STAPLE  
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WARRANTY  
N8II8EKP  
Nff[jkfZbꢀ@ek\ieXk`feXc#ꢀ@eZ%ꢀnXiiXekjꢀXccꢀJ_fgꢀ=foꢀdXZ_`e\ipꢀkfꢀY\ꢀ]i\\ꢀf]ꢀ[\]\Zkjꢀ]ifdꢀnfibdXej_`gꢀ  
Xe[ꢀdXk\i`Xcjꢀ]fiꢀXꢀg\i`f[ꢀf]ꢀknfꢀp\Xijꢀ]ifdꢀk_\ꢀ[Xk\ꢀf]ꢀfi`^`eXcꢀgliZ_Xj\ꢀYpꢀk_\ꢀfi`^`eXcꢀfne\i%ꢀ  
K_`jꢀnXiiXekpꢀ[f\jꢀefkꢀXggcpꢀkfꢀ[\]\Zkjꢀ[l\ꢀ[`i\Zkcpꢀfiꢀ`e[`i\Zkcpꢀkfꢀd`jlj\#ꢀXYlj\#ꢀe\^c`^\eZ\ꢀfiꢀ  
XZZ`[\ekj#ꢀcXZbꢀf]ꢀdX`ek\eXeZ\#ꢀfiꢀi\`dYlij\d\ekꢀf]ꢀk_`i[ꢀgXikpꢀ\og\ej\jꢀ`eZlii\[%ꢀ  
Nff[jkfZbꢀ@ek\ieXk`feXc#ꢀ@eZ%ꢀn`ccꢀi\gX`iꢀfiꢀi\gcXZ\#ꢀXkꢀ`kjꢀ\og\ej\ꢀXe[ꢀXkꢀ`kjꢀfgk`fe#ꢀk_\ꢀJ_fgꢀ=foꢀ  
dXZ_`e\ꢀfiꢀdXZ_`e\ꢀgXik#ꢀn_`Z_ꢀ`eꢀefidXcꢀlj\ꢀ_Xjꢀgifm\eꢀkfꢀY\ꢀ[\]\Zk`m\#ꢀgifm`[\[ꢀk_Xkꢀk_\ꢀfi`^`eXcꢀ  
fne\iꢀi\kliejꢀk_\ꢀgif[lZkꢀgi\gX`[ꢀkfꢀXꢀJ_fgꢀ=foꢀ]XZkfipꢀj\im`Z\ꢀZ\ek\iꢀn`k_ꢀgiff]ꢀf]ꢀk_\`iꢀgliZ_Xj\ꢀ  
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m\i`]pꢀk_\ꢀXcc\^\[ꢀ[\]\Zkꢀk_ifl^_ꢀ`ejg\Zk`fe%ꢀ@]ꢀ`kꢀ`jꢀ[\k\id`e\[ꢀk_\i\ꢀ`jꢀefꢀ[\]\Zk#ꢀfiꢀk_Xkꢀk_\ꢀ[\]\Zkꢀ  
i\jlck\[ꢀ]ifdꢀZXlj\jꢀefkꢀn`k_`eꢀk_\ꢀjZfg\ꢀf]ꢀNff[jkfZbꢀ@ek\ieXk`feXcꢀ@eZ%ꢂjꢀnXiiXekp#ꢀk_\eꢀk_\ꢀfi`^`eXcꢀ  
fne\iꢀdljkꢀY\Xiꢀk_\ꢀZfjkꢀf]ꢀjkfi`e^ꢀXe[ꢀi\klie`e^ꢀk_\ꢀgif[lZk%ꢀ  
K_`jꢀ`jꢀNff[jkfZbꢀ@ek\ieXk`feXc#ꢀ@eZ%ꢂjꢀjfc\ꢀni`kk\eꢀnXiiXekpꢀXe[ꢀXepꢀXe[ꢀXccꢀnXiiXek`\jꢀk_XkꢀdXpꢀ  
Y\ꢀ`dgc`\[ꢀYpꢀcXn#ꢀ`eZcl[`e^ꢀXepꢀd\iZ_XekXY`c`kpꢀfiꢀ]`ke\jj#ꢀ]fiꢀXepꢀgXik`ZlcXiꢀgligfj\#ꢀXi\ꢀ_\i\Ypꢀ  
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