Regardless of its location, replacing a gasket involves
these steps:
1. Remove the existing gasket by scraping it out of its
channel with an old screwdriver.
2. Clean the gasketing channel with a wire brush. Be
careful with adjacent surfaces, especially if they are
enamelled. Remove any stubborn deposits with a
small cold chisel. Clean both mating surfaces thor-
oughly to bare metal.
Gasket Kit #4322
Installation Instructions
for use on the
3. Cut the appropriate size gasket to length, allowing
an extra inch.
Defiant Stove
Vermont Castings’ stoves use a rope-type gasket to
make a seal between some parts. With use, this gasket
can become compressed and begin to lose its effective-
ness. It should then be replaced.
4. Knead the tube of cement before opening, to mix the
contents thoroughly.
5. Place an unbroken 1/8” bead of gasket cement in
the channel. Do not use too much cement as it may
saturate the gasket; the gasket must remain soft
and resilient. One tube of cement will produce a 1/8”
bead sufficient for all the gasket in this kit.
This kit includes materials to re-gasket a Model #1910
or #1945 Defiant stove. This stove model has glass
panels in the front doors. This kit is not appropriate for
the 1975-1988 model Defiant stoves which do not have
glass panels in the front doors.
6. Starting with one end, press the gasket into the
cemented channel. If the gasket goes around and
meets itself, ensure that you have a good joint be-
fore trimming the excess gasket. Do not overlap or
leave ragged edges.
Contents
7. Seat the gasket by placing it firmly against its normal
mating surface. A slip of waxed paper between the
gasket and its mating surface will help keep the ce-
ment from traveling through the gasket and sticking
to the mating surface. Clean away any excess ce-
ment.
• 3.5’ of 5/16” Glass Fiber Gasket for the damper
• 7’ of 3/16” Glass Fiber Gasket (Glass)
• 4¹⁄₂’ of 5/16” Wire Reinforced Glass Fiber “Armaseal”
for the griddle
• 10.9’ of 3/8” Glass Fiber Gasket for the ash door and
main doors
8. With enamel stoves, be careful to keep cement off
the enamel finish. If cement does accidentally get on
the enamel, wash it off immediately with warm water.
• 3 oz. Tube of Gasket Cement
Tools Required
9. Allow to dry. Be sure to remove the waxed paper!
Phillips screwdriver
Utility knife or scissors
Wire brush
10. If you have questions, refer to the Defiant Owner’s
Manual, or a Vermont Castings Dealer.
Small cold chisel
Rubber mallet, or hammer and wood block
Griddle
Remove the griddle. Pull off the old gasket and clean
the channel with the wire brush. Set the steel reinforced
5/16” gasket in the griddle channel and mark the cor-
rect length. Place the gasket on a wood cutting surface
and trim with a utility knife or scissors. Twist the ends
slightly to prevent unraveling. Place a continuous 1/8”
bead of gasket cement in the channel and press the
gasket into place. Replace the griddle and compress
against the gasket by striking around the edges with
the rubber mallet or hammer and block of wood. Do not
strike the stove top.
Flashlight or droplight
Installation Precautions
Be sure the fire is out and the stove has cooled before
replacing the gasket, and be sure to follow the standard
safety procedure for working with dusty materials: Wear
safety goggles and a dust mask.
Installation Instructions
Gaskets provide a tight seal between moving parts.
Eventually these gaskets will become compressed and
will no longer seal properly. Replacing the gaskets will
improve performance. For a guide to each gasketed
area, refer to the following sections and illustrations.
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3. Open the front doors of the stove and remove the
ashes. If necessary, empty the ashpan, and rake the
ashes left and right in the firebox till they fall through
the slots in the grate, and into the ashpan.
Rope Gasket
Glass Panel
4. Lift the baffle off its support brackets. Remove it from
the stove and set it down on a protected surface.
(Fig. 6)
Baffle Support Brackets
Catalytic
Element
ST555
KT317
Replacement Glass Gasket
Fig. 6 Remove the baffle.
Fig. 4 Glass gasket.
Alignment Notches
paper all around the perimeter of the damper opening.
With the damper closed and locked, it should not be
possible to pull the papers out without resistance. The
more easily the paper pulls out, the less secure the seal
is at that spot.
Right Wedge
Left Wedge
1. To adjust the damper seal, loosen the locking hex nut
on the adjusting allen screw. (Fig. 5) Turn the screw
clockwise with a hex wrench, in half-turn increments,
until the damper grips the paper slips securely when
you test the damper’s operation. When you have
achieved a snug seal, fasten the locking nut against
the face of the damper. The seal should not be tight
since the metal parts will expand slightly under heat.
Brick Guide
Brick Clip
Pressure Ad-
justing Screw
Bricks
ST556
Lock Nut
Allen
Wrench
Damper
Fig. 7 Remove the bricks and brick retainer.
5. Remove the firebricks. Lift off the steel clip and re-
move the firebricks individually. (Fig. 7)
6. Tap the left and right wedges upward with a rubber
mallet or a hammer and block of wood to protect the
cast iron. (Fig. 7) Remove the wedges and remove
the lower fireback by pulling its top edge toward
yourself. (Fig. 8) Lift the lower fireback out of the fire-
box and set it on a shielded surface.
ST554
Fig. 5 Damper adjustment.
2. It is possible, but awkward, to replace the damper
gasket without removing the upper fireback panel
which locates and supports the damper. To remove
the upper fireback assembly, open the damper. Use
an allen wrench to remove the damper handle from
the damper rod on the left side of the stove.
7. Four hex head bolts pass through the stove’s outer
back to fasten the upper fireback in place. Remove
these bolts. If the stove has a rear heat shield in
place, you may find it easier to remove the shield
first, and then the upper fireback bolts. You can
leave the heat shield spacers in place.
3
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on access, inspection, evaluation and replacement if
needed.
11. Work in reverse order to replace parts once the gas-
ket cement has dried on the upper fireback assem-
bly. Be sure to install the spacer on the left end of
the damper rod before installing the upper fireback
assembly.
12. Install the upper fireback assembly, left end first;
pass the damper rod through he hole in the left side
of the stove, then lift the right end of the assembly
into place. Loosely install all four bolts before you
tighten any of them. These bolts should be snug but
not tight, to allow some expansion and movement
under heat.
Lower Fire-
back
ST557
Fig. 8 Remove the lower fireback.
8. From inside the firebox, pull the right-hand end of the
upper fireback toward yourself. Carefully maneu-
ver the left end of the fireback assembly to let the
damper rod clear its hole in the left side of the stove.
Be sure to capture the spacer on the left end of the
damper rod. Remove the assembly from the stove
and set it on a shielded working surface.
13. Test the damper operation and the gasket’s snug-
ness, as described at the start of this section.
Continue after you are sure the damper operates
properly.
14. Install the lower fireback. Note that there are two
notches in the bottom edge; these must align behind
two mating nubs on the firebox floor.
15. Stand the five firebricks on end in front of the lower
fireback. Note that these stand behind a raised rib
on the firebox floor. (Fig. 7) Join the firebricks by
slipping the steel clip onto their top ends. The clip’s
longer edge should go behind the firebricks, for
easier installation.
Gasket
16. Replace the left and right wedges. Note that their
rear vertical edges bear against the outermost left
and right edges of the lower fireback. Gently tap the
wedges downward with a rubber mallet or a ham-
mer and a block of wood to cushion the impact. The
wedges should be snug but not overly tight.
KT318
Fig. 9 Back view of upper fireback (damper and rod re-
moved).
17. Replace the baffle by placing its ends on the sup-
port brackets which are part of the lower fireback.
The baffle shields the catalytic combustor from direct
flame impingement and must be in place during
operation.
9. Pull the damper rod out of the upper fireback.
Release the bolts holding the steel tabs in place,
and remove the damper. Pull off the old gasket
and clean off the old cement. Thoroughly clean the
damper plate and around the damper opening in
the upper fireback. Cut a piece of the 5/16” gas-
ket material to length, allowing a one inch excess.
Place a continuous 1/8” bead of gasket cement in
the damper gasket channel. Press the new gasket
in place, trimming off the excess length. (Fig. 9)
Remove any excess cement. Replace the damper,
the steel tabs and bolts, and the damper rod. Close
and lock the damper to seat the gasket. Use waxed
paper between the damper and the upper fireback to
keep the cement from traveling through the gasket
and sticking to the fireback.
Testing the Gasket Seals
After the cement has had several hours to dry, test the
new door seal by closing and latching the door on slips
of paper placed at approximately 6” intervals along the
top and bottom of the door opening. Be sure to include
the area where the right front door overlaps the left
door. It should not be possible to slide the papers, and
they should be pulled straight out only with consider-
able resistance. If the paper pulls out easily, readjust
the doors as needed till the doors hold the paper tightly.
Do not apply this test to the glass gasketing - it is not
accessible and does not get the repeated impacts that
other seals receive.
10. This is a fine opportunity to inspect the catalyst.
Follow the directions in the Defiant Owner’s Manual
MHSC
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