Vermont Casting Stove 1990CE User Manual

The Intrepid II

Woodburning Stove

Model 1990CE

Homeowner’s

Installation and

Operating Manual

For use in Europe

SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAIN-

TAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN

DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION

INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.

Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Speciﬁcations

Intrepid II, Model 1990CE

Nominal heat output ..............6.2 kW (21, 100 BTU/hr)¹

Minimum ﬂue draught......................12 Pa (0.048” WG)

Mean ﬂue gas temp..............................337° C (639° F)

Efﬁciency (space heating) ...................................72.8%

Area heated................... Up to 112 sq. m (1200 sq. ft.)¹

Fuel size/type .................................410 mm (16”) wood

Flue mass gas ﬂow............................................. 5.6 g/s

CO Emissions (@ 13% O₂) ...........................2900 ppm

Loading....................................................... Front or top

Chimney connector .................... 152 mm (6”) diameter

Chimney ﬂue size.......................152 mm (6”) minimum

Flue exit position ....................... Reversible, top or rear

Primary air ......Manual set, thermostatically maintained

Secondary air .........................................Self-regulating

Ash handling system .....................Removable ash pan

Glass panels.........................High temperature ceramic

Weight ................................................ 101 kg (233 lbs.)

Width (leg-to-leg).................................. 545 mm (21¹⁄₂”)

Depth (leg-to-leg) ................................. 350 mm (13³⁄₄”)

Height to top of ﬂue collar:

with regular legs.......................635 mm (25”) top exit

............................................... 610 mm (24”) rear exit

with optional short legs.............535 mm (21”) top exit

............................................ 500 mm (19³⁄₄”) rear exit

1. This value can vary depending on how the stove

is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel

used, as well as the design, construction and climatic

location of your home. Figures shown are based on

nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory

conditions and on average efﬁciencies.

510 mm (20")

DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE

545 mm

(21��")

31 mm

540 mm (21��")

(1��")

460 mm (18")

540 mm (21��")

610 mm

(24")

640 mm

(25��")

520 mm

(20��")

Top exit

flue collar

height

180 mm

(7��")

545 mm (21��")

350 mm (13��")

Fig. 1 Intrepid II 1990CE dimensions.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Installation

SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR STOVE IS NOT PROP-

ERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. TO

REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTAL-

LATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILD-

ING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS

AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS

IN YOUR AREA.

When poor draft is caused by a low inﬁltration rate,

opening a ground ﬂoor window on the windward side

of the house and in the vicinity of the stove will usually

alleviate the problem.

Another solution is to install a permanent outside air

supply to the stove and/or room. In some areas, in

fact, bringing air for combustion from outside the home

directly to the air inlet of the stove is required for new

construction.

Before you begin an installation, review your plans to

see that:

• Your stove and chimney connector will be far

enough from combustible material to meet all

clearance requirements.

An outside air supply is not affected by pressure varia-

tions within the house, and improved stove perfor-

mance often results. An Outside Air Adaptor Kit for the

Intrepid II is available from your local Vermont Castings

dealer.

• The ﬂoor protector is large enough and is con-

structed properly to meet all requirements.

• You have all necessary permits from local author-

ities.

Your local building ofﬁcial is the ﬁnal authority for ap-

proving your installation as safe and determining that it

meets local and state codes.

What Kind of Chimney to Use

Your Intrepid II must be connected to a code-approved

masonry chimney with a ﬂue liner, to a relined masonry

chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated

metal chimney. Whatever kind you use, the chimney

and chimney connector must be in good condition and

kept clean. Figure 2 shows the two chimney types.

The metal label permanently attached to the back of

every Vermont Castings stove indicates the stove has

been tested to current standards. The test standard

is EN13240:2001 + A2:2004 for Europe. Clearance

and installation information also is printed on the label.

When the stove is installed according to the information

both on the label and in this manual, local authorities

in most cases will accept the label as evidence that the

installation meets codes and can be approved.

A prefabricated

double-wall insu-

lated chimney

However, codes vary in different countries. Before

starting the installation, review your plans with the local

building authority. You local dealer can provide any ad-

ditional information needed.

A tile-lined ma-

sonry chimney

IMPORTANT: Failure to follow these installation

instructions may result in a dangerous situation, in-

cluding a chimney or house ﬁre. Follow all instruc-

tions exactly, and do not allow makeshift compro-

mises to endanger property and personal safety.

ST241

Fig. 2 Standard chimney types.

If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be

inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is

installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, build-

ing inspector, or ﬁre department ofﬁcial will be able to

inspect the chimney or provide a referral to someone

who can.

All local regulations, including those referring to

national and European standards, need to be com-

plied with when installing this stove.

Outside Air

In some modern, super-insulated homes, there is not

enough air for combustion because of insufﬁcient air

inﬁltration into the building. Such air enters a home

through unsealed cracks and openings. Kitchen or bath

exhaust fans can compete with the stove for available

air and compound the problem.

The ﬂue and chimney design must meet requirement

J2, Part J of the building regulations 2000 (Combustion

Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Connecting Flue Pipes

Masonry Chimneys

Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the

building regulations. This can be achieved by the use

connecting ﬂuepipes included in the following catego-

ries:

An inspection of the chimney must conﬁrm that it has

a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney

should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of

deterioration, or blockage. Repair any defects before

using the chimney with your stove.

a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS

6999: 1989 (1996);

Seal any unused openings in an existing masonry chim-

ney with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall,

and repair the chimney liner. Openings sealed with pie

plates or wallpaper are a hazard; seal them with mortar

or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney ﬁre,

ﬂames and smoke may be forced out of these unused

thimbles.

b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS

EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.4432 or

1.4436 with ﬂue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;

c) Mild steel ﬂuepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:

1991, with a ﬂue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;

d) Cast iron ﬂuepipes complying with BS 41: 1973

(1998).

The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.

Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be

ﬁtted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-

densates and moisture within the ﬂue. Joints should be

made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,

or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-

tible rope and ﬁre cement.

A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the

standards of your local building code or, in the absence

of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry

chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-

sonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or

a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s

clean-out door must seal tightly.

Double-wall chimney connectors must be tested and

listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Sin-

gle-wall chimney connectors should be made of 24

gauge or heavier steel, and should be 150 mm (6”) in

diameter. Do not use galvanized connector; it cannot

withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by

smoke and gases, and may release toxic fumes under

high heat.

Prefabricated Chimneys

These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)

and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has

been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of

ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 200 mm

(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-

tion causing excessive cooling of the ﬂue gases.

If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through

a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-

bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section follow-

ing on Wall Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the chimney

connector through an attic, a closet, or any similar con-

cealed space. The whole connector should be exposed

and accessible for inspection and cleaning.

DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE

SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

Chimney Size

An Intrepid II is approved for venting into a masonry

chimney with a maximum ﬂue size of 200 x 200 mm (8”

x 8”), and into a round ﬂue size of 150 mm (6”).

In horizontal runs of single-wall chimney connector

without protective shields, maintain a clearance of at

least 660 mm (26”) from the ceiling.

It may not be vented into larger chimneys without a liner

to reduce the effective ﬂue size to 150 mm (6”) diam-

eter. Larger chimneys must have their ﬂues relined for

proper stove performance.

Keep the horizontal run of chimney connector as short

and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.

Slope horizontal runs of connector upward 20 mm per

m (1/4” per foot) going from the stove toward the chim-

ney. The recommended maximum length of a horizontal

run is 914 mm (36”). The recommended total length of

chimney connector is 2.4 m (8’).

Accessories to make the connection between stainless

steel chimney liners and your Intrepid II are available

through your local dealer.

Chimney Connector Guidelines

In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-

cated chimney down to within 2.4 m (8’) of the stove.

Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall

pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-

ney is a masonry or prefabricated structure that enclos-

es the ﬂue. Chimney connectors are used only to make

the connection from the stove to the chimney.

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND PRO-

TECTIVE EYEWEAR WHEN DRILLING, CUTTING OR

JOINING SECTIONS OF CHIMNEY CONNECTOR.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Special adapters are available from your local dealer to

make the connection between the prefabricated chim-

ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-

ers attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s

ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adap-

tor is screwed to the chimney connector.

Double-wall Chimney Connector

Information on assembling and installing double-wall

connector is provided by the manufacturer of the

double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions

exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to

the stove and chimney. Using connectors and chim-

neys from the same manufacturer makes the assembly

and installation straightforward.

These adapters are designed so the top end will ﬁt

outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom

end will ﬁt inside the ﬁrst section of chimney connector.

When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote fall-

ing from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside

the chimney connector.

NOTE: For installations using double-wall con-

nectors, minimum clearances must conform to the

listed clearances on Page 9.

Single-wall Chimney Connector

Securing the Single-wall Connector to a

Masonry Chimney

• Beginning at the ﬂue collar of the stove, assemble

the chimney connector. Insert the ﬁrst crimped end into

the stove’s ﬂue collar, and

keep each crimped end

For masonry chimneys, both freestanding and ﬁreplace

chimneys may be used for installation of your Intrepid II.

pointing toward the stove.

Using the holes in the

ﬂue collar as guides, drill

3 mm (1/8”) holes in the

Freestanding Chimney Installations

If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-

tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-

tions in the Wall Pass-through section that follows.

bottom of the ﬁrst section

The opening through the chimney wall to the ﬂue (the

“breach”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal

cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented ﬁrmly

in place. The ﬁt must be snug and the joint between the

thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented. (Fig. 4)

of chimney connector and

secure it to the ﬂue collar

with three #10 x 1/2” sheet

metal screws.

•

Secure each joint be-

tween sections of chimney

connector, including tel-

scoping joints, with at least

three sheet metal screws.

The pre-drilled holes in

the top of each section of

Chimney

Fig. 3 The crimped end of

the connector points toward

stove.

Flue

Elbow

Flue

Liner

chimney connector serve as guides when you drill 3 mm

(1/8”) holes in the bottom of the next section.

Slip Pipe

Thimble

• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-

structions for various installations follow.

Standard

Chimney

Connector

• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector

are correct distances from nearby combustible material.

Flue Collar

NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form

telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-

nector are available to simplify installations. They often

eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.

Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.

Securing the Single-wall Connector to a

Prefabricated Chimney

ST492a

For prefabricated chimneys, follow the installation

instructions of the chimney maker exactly as you install

the chimney. The maker of the chimney will supply the

accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof

of the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove

is installed, or from an exterior wall.

Fig. 4 Chimney connection in a freestanding installation.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly

smaller in diameter than standard connector and most

thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney con-

nector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble

sleeves should be available from your local dealer. (Fig.

Chimney Connector

Shields

* Check

Thimble Sleeve

These Clear-

ances

Flue

Chimney

Connector

Keep

sleeve

end

Mantel

ﬂush

with ﬂue

tile

Seal the

Damper

ST243

Fig. 5 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be

cemented securely in place.

To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breach until

it is ﬂush with the inner ﬂue wall. Do not extend it into

the actual ﬂue passage, as this could interfere with the

draft.

ST244

Fig. 6 Chimney connector enters chimney above the ﬁre-

place.

• Check the clearance between the chimney con-

nector and the ceiling. If no heat shields are used, the

clearance should be at least 660 mm (26”). To ﬁnd out

how much this clearance may be reduced with heat

shields, see the clearance chart on Page 14.

The thimble sleeve should protrude 25 - 50 mm (1-2”)

into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing

to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the

chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with

sheet metal screws.

• The ﬁreplace damper must be sealed to prevent

room air from escaping up the ﬂue. However, it must be

possible to re-open the damper to inspect or clean the

chimney.

Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney con-

nector can be extended through the breach to the inner

face of the ﬂue liner, and cemented securely in place.

Additional pieces of connector are then attached with

sheet metal screws.

Fireplace Chimney Installations -

Through a Fireplace

Fireplace Chimney Installations -

Above a Fireplace

If your ﬁreplace height is at least 635 mm (25”), you

may install an Intrepid II with standard legs through

the ﬁreplace opening using a “positive connection” kit

available from your local dealer. These positive connec-

tion kits ensure a tight ﬁt between the stove ﬂue collar

and the chimney ﬂue. (Fig. 7) Fireplace installations,

whether connected to the ﬂue above or through the ﬁre-

place opening, have special clearance requirements to

adjacent trim and the mantel. You will ﬁnd the required

clearances for the Intrepid II ﬁreplace installations on

Page 9.

The Intrepid II may be connected to a chimney above a

ﬁreplace opening also. In such installations, the stove is

positioned on the hearth in front of the ﬁreplace and the

chimney connector rises from the stove top and then

angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. (Fig. 6)

The chimney liner should extend to the point at which

the chimney connector enters the chimney.

If the chimney connector from your installation enters

the chimney above a ﬁreplace, follow all the guidelines

mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addi-

tion, give special consideration to the following points:

Floor protection requirements also apply to ﬁreplace

installations. Floor protection information is on Page 8.

• Check the clearance between the stove and the

chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the

mantel. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim,

and connector heat shields to achieve the required

clearances.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

460 mm (18”) clearance all

around the pipe

Flexible Connector

Flush Mounted

Sheet Metal

Cover

Mantel Shield

Fireplace Adaptor Kit

ST494a

Fig. 8 An approved wall pass-through.

Hearths

This appliance must be installed on to hearth that

meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-

lations 2000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage

Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the

hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the

guidelines included in section 2 of approved document

‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-

lows:

ST245

Fig. 7 Chimney connector enters chimney through the ﬁre-

place opening.

Wall Pass-Throughs

Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-

nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you

are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,

check with your building inspector before you begin.

Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer

for any speciﬁc requirements.

The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-

cordance with the recommendations in document J,

and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum

depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or

a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a

recessed hearth a) above).

Accessories are available for use as wall pass-

throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been

tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.

The following illustration shows one method of pass-

ing a connector througha wall. All combustible material

in the wall is cut away to provide the required 460 mm

(

18”) clearance for the connector. The resulting space

must remain empty. A ﬂush-mounted sheet metal cover

may be used on one side only. If covers must be used

on both sides, each cover must be mounted on noncom-

bustible spacers at least 25 mm (1”) clear of the wall.

Your local dealer or your local building inspector can

provide details for other approved methods of passing

a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your

area.

Wood framing requires

protection from radiant heat

ST247a

Fig. 9 Supporting timbers under ﬁreplace hearth are consid-

ered to be combustible.

DO NOT CONNECT AN INTREPID II TO ANY AIR

DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Costructional Hearth

Dimensions as below

At least 150 mm

or to a suitable

heat resistant wall

Appliance

Doors

Appliance

Doors

Hearth Surface

Free of Com-

bustible Material

At least

150 mm

Perimeter should be

clearly marked e.g.

edge of superimposed

hearth

clearly marked e.g.

edge of superimposed

hearth

At least

300 mm

a) Fireplace recess

b) Free standing

ST912

Fig. 10 Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.

are too close to the heat. A safe installation requires

that adequate clearance be maintained between the

hot stove and its connector and nearby combustibles.

Floor Protection for Fireplace Installations

Do not assume your ﬁreplace hearth is completely

noncombustible.

Clearance is the distance between either your stove

(measured from the back edge of the stove’s top plate)

or chimney connector, and nearby walls, ﬂoors, the

ceiling, and any other ﬁxed combustible surfaces. In

addition, furnishings and other combustible materials

must be kept away from the stove as well. In general, a

distance of 1220 mm (48”) must be maintained between

the stove and moveable combustible items such as dry-

ing clothes, furniture, newspapers, ﬁrewood, etc. Keep-

ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby

surfaces and objects will not overheat.

Many ﬁreplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely

noncombustible” requirement because the brick or

concrete in front of the ﬁreplace opening is supported

by heavy wood framing as in Figure 9. Because heat

passes through brick or concrete readily, it can easily

pass through to the wood. As a result, such ﬁreplace

hearths can be a ﬁre hazard and are considered a com-

bustible ﬂoor.

Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend

less than the required clearance from the front of the

heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufﬁcient

ﬂoor protection as described above must be added in

front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum ﬂoor protector

requirement from the front of the stove: 406 mm (16”)

from the front. Fireplace hearths must also offer the

required protection of 152 mm (6”) on either side.

Clearances

As with any solid fuel heating stove, extremely high

surface temperatures can occur, particularly in the

event of uncontrolled operation, e.g. if the doors

are inadvertently left open. It is crucial that suf-

ﬁcient clearances are allowed to any combustible

surfaces, e.g. wooden mantels or lintels, and to

timber framed (studded) walls even if they are faced

with noncombustible board. Detailed information

on ﬁreplace and hearth construction is provided

in section 2 of Document J, all installations must

comply with these requirements or with the relevant

National or local building standards.

Optional 76 mm (3”) short legs may be used only on

such hearths that meet the width and depth require-

ments outlined previously under “ﬂoor protection.”

Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for ﬂoor

protection.

Fireplace installations also have special clearance

requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and

ﬁreplace mantle. Refer to the information on ﬁreplace

and mantel trim shields in this section.

Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are includ-

ed below. There are no speciﬁc minimum clearances

to solid noncombustible surfaces (e.g. the sides and

rear of Inglenook ﬁre openings constructed from solid

masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls

of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances

of 125 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm

are recommended.

Keep the Stove a Safe Distance from

Surrounding Materials

Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in

all directions when operating, and dangerous overheat-

ing of nearby combustible materials can occur if they

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Summary of Clearances

Minimum recommended side clearances to non-

combustible surfaces 125 mm (5”).

Minimum recommended rear clearance to noncom-

bustible surfaces 50 mm (2”).

NOTE: The minimum thickness of solid noncombus-

tible materials is speciﬁed in section 2 of Document ‘J’,

in relation to the clearance of the appliance from the

surface. As a general rule, the thickness of solid non-

combustible material forming the recess of a ﬁreplace is

a minimum of 200 mm.

ST486a

Fig. 11 Minimum clearances.

Connecting Flue Pipe - Clearances

Minimum rear clearance from combustible walls

(e.g. timber framed or studded walls) 610 mm (24”)

measured from the rear edge of the stove top. (Fig.

11, B)

Single wall connecting ﬂuepipes can reach extremely

high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-

necting ﬂuepipe (chimney connector) must comply with

the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 2000

(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).

This can be achieved by following the recommenda-

tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in

Figure 12.

Minimum side clearance from combustible walls

610 mm (24”) measured from the side edge of the

stove top. (Fig. 11, A)

Minimum distance from stove to movable combus-

tible materials (e.g. furniture, drying clothes, etc.)

760 mm (30”).

at least

3 x D

at least

1.5 x D

at least 3 x D

at least

1.5 x D

Fluepipe

at least

1.5 x D

at least

1.5 x D

Air space of at least 12 mm

between noncombustible shield

and combustible material

Plan Without

Shield

at least

1.5 x D

Elevation

Without

Shield

Plan With

Shield

Elevation

With Shield

ST911

Fig. 12 Connecting ﬂuepipe clearances.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Assembly

Clean the Griddle Before Use

At the factory the griddle is coated with vegetable oil to

prevent rusting while the stove is in transit and storage.

Remove the oil with a dry rag or paper towel before you

use the stove.

10³⁄₄"

Set Up the Stove

9³⁄₄"

Remove any loose parts from inside the stove. Place a

protective pad on the ﬂoor, arrange some sections of 4

x 4 lumber on the pad for support, and carefully tip the

stove onto them, on its back.

ST512

Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws

from the stove bottom (Fig. 13) and install the stove

legs, using the hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use

3/8” washers with three of the legs; the door/damper

handle holder installs in place of a washer on the right

front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the

handle nub faces out from the right side of the stove.

Tighten the bolts ﬁrmly.

Fig. 14 Attach bottom heat shield.

Storing the Handle

Use the removable handle to open or close the front

doors, or to change the position of the damper. After

using it, remove it so it won’t get hot, and store it in the

handle holder installed behind the right front leg. (Fig.

15)

Slotted

Screws

Door Handle Holder

Bottom Heat Shield

ST513

Fig. 13 Remove the slotted screws from the stove bottom.

Bracket

Install the Bottom Heat Shield

Wing Bolt

ST514

A bottom heat shield must be used unless the stove is

to be situated on a completely noncombustible hearth,

such as unpainted concrete over earth. To install the

bottom heat shield, loosen the leg bolts, and slip the

bottom heat shield C-clips onto the bolts. Attach the

bottom heat shield to the C-clips with the wing nuts, and

tighten the leg bolts. Align the shield as shown in Figure

14.

Fig. 15 Handle holder and heat shield positions.

Reversing the Flue Collar

You can reverse the ﬂue collar by removing the two

screws that attach the collar to the back of the stove.

(Fig. 16) Be sure the gasket around the ﬂue collar

opening is in position when you screw the collar back

on to the stove.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Flue Collar Screws

Operation

Your Intrepid II’s Controls and

What They Do

The stove has two controls to regulate performance: a

primary air control supplies oxygen for the ﬁre, and a

damper directs air ﬂow within the stove to activate and

deactivate the catalytic combustor.

Additional air for catalytic combustion is regulated auto-

matically, and does not require operator control.

ST515

Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct

directions for opening and closing the controls. In these

directions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ assume that you are facing

the front of the stove.

Fig. 16 Reversing the ﬂue collar.

Attach the Griddle Handle

A Single Air Control Regulates the

Amount of Heat the Fire Will Produce and

How Long it Will Burn

Install the handle on the griddle. Place the griddle

upside down at the edge of a ﬂat surface and assemble

the handle as shown. (Fig. 17)

With the handle pointing 45° from its ﬁnal position,

tighten the nut as far as possible with pliers. Move the

handle to its ﬁnal position while still holding the nut with

the pliers. Take care not to overtighten, as tab may

snap.

The primary air control lever, located at the right rear

corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming air

for starting, maintaining, and reviving a ﬁre. More air

entering the stove makes the ﬁre burn hotter and faster,

while less air prolongs the burn at a lower heat level.

For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output

(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left.

For a ﬁre that will last longer with less heat, move the

lever to the right. You can set the lever anywhere in

between the left and right extremes. (Fig. 19)

The Intrepid II features an automatic thermostat to en-

sure an even heat output at any setting you select. The

thermostat senses the heating and cooling of the stove

surface and adjusts the air shutter accordingly.

ST516

High Heat

Fig. 17 Attaching the griddle handle.

Low Heat

Griddle

Handle

Air Control Lever

Damper Handle

Door Handle

Rear View

ST517

Fig. 19 The thermostat handle may be positioned anywhere

between the two extremes for different heat levels.

Ash Pan

Door Handle

Holder

(Behind Leg)

Andiron

ST518

Fig. 18 The Intrepid II controls.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

A Damper Directs Air Flow

Within the Stove

Andirons

Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the

glass panels. The andirons are important to maintain

clear ﬁreviewing and should be removed only while

reloading through the front doors.

The damper handle opens and closes the damper to

direct air ﬂow within the stove, and is next to, and to the

right of, the primary air control lever on the right side of

the stove. (Fig. 20)

Wear heavy stove gloves when removing the andirons,

and place them on a noncombustible surface until you

replace them in the stove. Most stove owners will prefer

the convenience of top loading through the griddle, and

will leave the andirons in place permanently.

When the handle points to the ﬂoor, the damper is

open, letting smoke pass directly into the chimney. The

damper must be open when starting or reviving a ﬁre,

and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.

When the handle points to the front, the damper is

closed. Smoke from the ﬁre travels through the catalytic

combustion system where it can burn further for greater

efﬁciency, before passing up the chimney.

The damper has no intermediate positions. Figure 28

shows the handle’s open and closed positions.

When closing the damper, push ﬁrmly and snap it

into the locked position to ensure that the stove

remains in the catalytic mode.

Side View

ST520

Open

(Updraft Mode)

Fig. 21 Remove the andirons for front loading.

Two Ways to Add Fuel

The Intrepid II’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading

of logs, and is the easiest way of regularly adding fuel.

However, the front doors open as well for adding an oc-

casional log to a ﬁre. (Fig. 22)

You can open (or even remove) the front doors and

place the optional Intrepid II spark screen in the front

opening for open-ﬁre viewing.

Closed

(Catalytic Mode)

ST519

Fig. 20 The damper is either open or closed. There are no

intermediate positions.

Glass Door Panels

INTREPID II

The glass panels in the doors have a heat-reﬂective

coating on the outside surface. Heat reﬂected back to

the inside of the glass helps keep the inner surface at

a higher temperature than the outside. In combination

with pre-heated primary combustion air ‘washing’ over

the inside of the glass, this helps provide clear ﬁre-

viewing at most operating levels.

ST521

Fig. 22 Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular

use. Front loading is useful for kindling a ﬁre.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com-

monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,

white pine, Eastern red cedar, ﬁr, and redwood. These

too should be properly dried.

WARNING: For safety and greatest efﬁciency, oper-

ate your stove only with all doors/griddles fully

closed. The test standard for your stove when it is

operated in this mode is UL 1482.

Store ﬁrewood under cover to keep it dry. Dry, well-sea-

soned wood is best for heating and ﬁre-viewing. How-

ever, avoid wood dried more than two years. This wood

burns very quickly, reducing burn time.

Your stove may be used as a ﬁreplace with the front

doors open or removed only when the spark screen

is placed correctly in the opening to protect against

the possibility of sparks and embers leaving your

stove. The test standard for your stove when it is

operated in this mode is UL 737.

Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance

from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the

heater used for refueling and ash removal.

Use only the Intrepid II spark screen, part #0136,

with your Intrepid II.

A Surface Thermometer is a Valuable

Guide to Operation

Intrepid II spark screens are available from your

Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.

An optional surface thermometer tells you when to

adjust the air control, when to refuel, and helps to tell

when your catalyst is operating properly.

To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door

latch stub and turn it to the left and up. To close them,

always close the left door ﬁrst. Turn the handle in the

right door to the left and up (to the open position) and

close the door. Push on the door as you turn the handle

to the right and down. The doors will draw in slightly,

and the handle should offer some resistance as you

turn it to the closed position. (Fig. 23)

For example, when the thermometer registers at least

230° C (450° F) after start-up you know the stove is

hot enough to begin catalytic combustion and it may be

time to close the damper.

Place the thermometer in the center of the griddle, as in

Figure 24, and use the following temperature ranges as

a guide to operation:

Avoid striking the glass or slamming the doors to re-

duce the risk of breaking the glass.

When thermometer readings drop below 175° C

(350° F) it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher

burn rate or to reload the stove.

When you’re not using the door handle, store it in the

holder behind the right front leg of the stove.

• A temperature reading over 400° C (750° F) is a sign

to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate.

• Readings in the 150-200° C (300-400° F) range

indicate low to medium heat output.

Open

Position

• Readings of 260-340° C (500-650° F) indicate high

heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously

at griddle temperatures of 400° C (750°F) or higher

may damage inner parts or the enamel ﬁnish.

Closed

Position

ST522

Fig. 23 To open the front doors, turn handle clockwise.

ST523

Burn Only High-Quality Wood

Fig. 24 Take temperature readings with a thermometer lo-

cated in the middle of the griddle.

The Intrepid II is designed to burn natural wood only; do

not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.

You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that

has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”

wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood

should be 410 mm (16”) in length.

The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,

ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-

dried outside under cover for at least one year.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Use the Air Control Settings

that Work Best for You

Intrepid II Control Settings

Burn Rate

Primary Air Control

Low

From far right to 1/3 the

distance to left

No single air control setting will ﬁt every situation. Set-

tings will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the

amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the ﬁre

to burn.

Medium

High

From 1/3 to 2/3

the distance to left

From 2/3 the distance

to left to far left

The control setting also depends on your particular

installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the

stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such

things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,

local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.

Before you start using the stove, please read the Draft

Management section starting on Page 18 to see how

the features of your installation will affect the stove’s

performance. You and the stove are parts of a system,

and other parts of the system have a strong effect on

operation; you may need to vary your ﬁring technique to

get the performance you want.

Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in

the Intrepid II, and could even damage the combustor.

On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpufﬁng

into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or

combustor.

How to Build a Wood Fire

and Keep it Going

How do you know if your draft is excessively high or

low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-

lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inad-

equate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the

stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty

glass.

An Intrepid II leaves the factory with the combustor

installed.

In the United States, it is against the law to operate this

wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating

instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor

is deactivated or removed.

In some newer homes that are well-insulated and

weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufﬁcient air

in the house. In such instances, an open window near

the stove on the windward side of the house will provide

the fresh air needed.

High-Efﬁciency Wood Burning

with Catalytic Combustion

Another option for getting more combustion air to the

stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to the stove.

In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion

air are required in all new construction.

The catalytic combustion system in your Intrepid II

produces the best conditions for secondary combustion.

When the stove damper is closed, smoke goes through

the catalytic element, burning at temperatures of

260-315° C (500-600° F), half the temperature normally

needed for unaided secondary combustion.

Your Intrepid II will accept a duct carrying outside air for

combustion.

When ﬁrst using the stove, keep track of the air control

settings. You will quickly ﬁnd that a speciﬁc setting will

give you a ﬁxed amount of heat. It may take some time

to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn

you should expect from various settings. Please read

the Draft Management section beginning on Page 18

for more information on how installation features affect

draft.

The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated

with a noble metal, usually platinum. The element is in

the secondary combustion chamber, made of a spe-

cial high-temperature insulating refractory material.

The chamber provides the correct environment neces-

sary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).

Closing the damper may also reduce draft. Closing the

damper too soon may put out the ﬁre or deactivate the

combustor. Close the damper only when the ﬁre is well

established. When starting a ﬁre, wait until there is an

ember bed of at least 76 - 102 mm (3-4”) before closing

the damper.

Most installations do not require a large amount of com-

bustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.

Do not for any reason attempt to increase the ﬁring

of your heater by altering the air control adjustment

range outlined in these directions.

Never kindle a ﬁre with colored paper or paper that

has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn

treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these

may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating

properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except

for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can

produce soot or large ﬂakes of char or ﬂy ash that can

Use the following air control settings as a starting point

to help determine the best settings for your installation.

Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the

lever may be moved from right to left.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the

room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it

won’t operate properly.

In general, the ﬁre must be sufﬁciently well-established

to ensure catalytic activity is initiated. When ﬁrst starting

a ﬁre, maintain a medium- to high- ﬁring rate for at least

twenty minutes. This ensures the stove, catalyst, and

fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating tempera-

tures. This may be long enough to warm the chimney

well enough to support a good draft; some installations

may need more time. Please read the Draft Manage-

ment information starting on Page 23 to see if your

installation has features that may require more time to

warm up.

ST263

Even though it is possible for the ﬁre to get quite hot

within a few minutes, the combustor may stop working

or the ﬁre may go out if the ﬁre is allowed to die down

immediately as a result of closing the damper. Once the

combustor starts working, heat generated by burning

the smoke will keep it working.

Fig. 25 Start the ﬁre with newspaper and dry kindling.

DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START

THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMA-

BLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, OR

ENGINE OIL. Also, never use gasoline-type lantern

fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter ﬂuid, or similar

liquids to start or “freshen up” a ﬁre. Keep all such

liquids well away from the Intrepid II while it is in

use.

To determine whether the combustor is operating, ob-

serve the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when

the damper is activated and when it is not. This proce-

dure is described on Page 27.

3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradu-

ally build up the ﬁre by adding a few 76 - 127 mm

(3-5”) diameter splits. If this is one of the ﬁrst few

“break-in” ﬁres, let the ﬁre burn brightly, and

then let it die out.

Conditioning Your Stove

Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with

a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock

of rapid and extreme temperature change.

During the break-in ﬁres, don’t let the stove get hot-

ter than 260° C (500° F) as measured on an optional

stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever

as necessary to control the ﬁre. Some odor from the

stove’s hot metal, the paint, and the cement is normal

for the ﬁrst few ﬁres.

The cast plates expand and contract with changes in

temperature. When you ﬁrst begin using your Intrepid II,

minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust

gradually during three or four initial break-in ﬁres follow-

ing Steps 1-3 below.

Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire

NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or

warmed up, before they will draw sufﬁciently to start

a ﬁre. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces

of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and

toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the

doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate

a draft.

Burn solid wood fuel only in the Intrepid II, and burn it

directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not

burn coal or other fuels.

The damper must be open when starting a ﬁre or

when refueling.

1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air

control fully.

Once the draft is established, open the front door and

light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the

main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and

repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial

attempt is unsuccessful.

2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the

stove. Do NOT use glossy advertisements or colored

paper, as they can poison the catalyst. Place on the

paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a

ﬁnger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three

larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 25 - 50

mm (1-2”) in diameter. (Fig. 25)

4. If your Intrepid II has been broken-in previously

using Steps 1-3, continue to build the ﬁre gradually.

Add larger wood with a diameter of 76 - 102 mm (3-

4”). (Fig. 26)

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ST264a

ST264

Fig. 26 Add larger pieces of wood as the ﬁre begins to burn

Fig. 27 Add full size logs when the ember bed is 3” (75mm)

well.

deep.

CAUTION: The Intrepid II will be hot while in opera-

tion. Keep children, clothing and furniture away.

Contact may cause skin burns.

Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-

burning ﬁre until there is a glowing ember bed at

least 76 mm (3”) deep. A good ember bed is neces-

sary for proper functioning of the catalytic system

and may take an hour or more to establish.

5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature

reaches 230° C (450° F).

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overﬁring may

cause a house ﬁre, or can result in permanent damage

to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If any part

of the Intrepid II glows, you are overﬁring.

6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.

Ash Disposal

Refuel While the Embers are Still Hot

Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.

Check the level at least once a day, and before each

re-fueling. If the ash is close to the top edge of the pan,

empty it according to this procedure:

Reload the Intrepid II while it is still hot and there are

plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the ﬁre. Include

some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to

help the stove rebuild its operating temperature quickly.

1. Open the damper.

Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure when you

reload your stove:

2. Open the front doors fully.

3. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the stove

by its handle.

1. Open the thermostat lever.

2. Open the damper.

4. Remove the ash pan and properly dispose of the

3. Check the ash level in the ash pan; empty, if neces-

sary, and replace the pan.

ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during dispos-

al.

4. Open the griddle.

5. Return the ash pan to the stove.

5. Position the charcoal in the middle of the ﬁrebox

(Fig. 41)then load wood — smaller, split pieces ﬁrst.

Increase the amount of fuel you load into the stove

as you become familiar with your stove and the

heating needs of your home.

Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to

three days. The frequency will vary depending on how

you operate your Intrepid II; if you burn more wood at

higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.

Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal

container with a tight-ﬁtting lid. Put the closed container

of ash on a noncombustible ﬂoor or on the ground,

well away from all combustible materials, pending ﬁnal

disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or

otherwise locally dispersed, keep it in the closed con-

tainer until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can

use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.

NOTE: If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick

and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add

fresh fuel (smaller pieces ﬁrst), close the door and

damper, and reset the primary air thermostat for the

desired heat output.

Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or

pound or compress the charcoal bed.

CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum

cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove

and dispose of the ash properly.

It is important that air can circulate under the wood for

the ﬁre to be quickly revived.

WARNING: Operate your Intrepid II only with the

doors either fully open or fully closed.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Draft Management

A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,

the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of

the system will affect how well the stove works. When

there is a good match between all the parts, the system

works well.

Flue sizing

The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove

should match the size of the stove’s ﬂue outlet. When a

chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact, it

can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through ex-

pansion; if we vent a stove with a 152 mm (6”) ﬂue collar

{181 sq. cm (28 sq. in.) area} into a 254 x 254 mm (10”

x 10”) ﬂue, the gases expand to over three times their

original size. This cools the gases, which weakens draft

strength. If an oversized ﬂue is also outside the house,

the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air

and the ﬂue usually stays cool.

Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)

draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter

(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of

the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the

stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney

it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove

for combustion. A slow, lazy ﬁre with the stove’s air inlet

fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk ﬁre, supported

only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,

indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;

it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it

doesn’t move air into it.

It’s common for a masonry ﬂue, especially one built for

a ﬁreplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can

take quite a while to warm up such a ﬂue, and the re-

sults can be disappointing. The best solution to an over-

sized ﬂue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same

diameter as the stove or insert’s ﬂue outlet; the liner

keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is

a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice

- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,

but the smoke still must warm up the air around the

liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.

Depending on the features of your installation - steel or

masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched

to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may

warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and

operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts

the amount of air getting into the ﬁrebox, the chimney

must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.

Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list

of features and their effects.

Pipe & Chimney Layout

Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the

stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal

pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,

to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting

from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stove-

pipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble

about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.

This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up

before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for

heat transfer, and it gives you long-term ﬂexibility for

installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.

Masonry Chimney

Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it

can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.

Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot

of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.

The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.

It’s often very difﬁcult to warm up an outdoor masonry

chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm

enough to maintain an adequate draft.

Steel Chimney

There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall

stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer

runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and

creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long

runs.

Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of in-

sulation around the inner ﬂue. This insulation keeps the

smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than mason-

ry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a

masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of

masonry, but it performs much better.

Single Venting

Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own ﬂue. If an airtight

stove is vented to a ﬂue that also serves an open ﬁre-

place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft

to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air

through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine

a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the ef-

fect here. In some cases the other appliance can even

cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in

a dangerous draft reversal.

Indoor/Outdoor location

Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s

best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house

as insulation for the ﬂue and allows a little heat release

into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to

the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get

it warm and keep it warm.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

smoke rise to the ﬂue more quickly, let more air into

the ﬁrebox, and avoid big loads of ﬁrewood. Run your

stove with enough primary air so that you always see

lively, dancing ﬂames in the ﬁrebox; a lazy, smoky ﬁre is

inefﬁcient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the

chimney.

Creosote

Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an

organic tar that can condense in the ﬂue if it’s dense in

the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than

130° C (290° F). Condensed creosote is volatile, and

can generate chimney ﬁres if it gets hot enough. All the

features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote

condensation - so use whatever combination of installa-

tion features and operational steps that will encourage

good draft and minimize creosote production.

Draft Testing

An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the

stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airﬂow

stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of

the ﬁre by swinging the air control open and closed. Re-

sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few

minutes for a change in the air control setting to have

an effect on the ﬁre. If there’s no change, then the draft

isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and

you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the

ﬁre with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you

keep track of your burning habits and relate them to

their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded

with good performance and a safe system.

Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is

one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense

to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for

safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a quali-

ﬁed installer and check local and national codes for

recommended chimney size.

Fuel

Even the best stove installation will not perform well

with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-

dried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as

hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of

moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential

is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.

This reduces the amount that reaches your home and

can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois-

ture meters available for ﬁrewood; you can also judge

your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it

green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can

lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at

the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.

The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier

it is.

Negative Pressure

Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;

a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.

Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to

prevent the ready ﬂow of air to the stove, or by competi-

tion between the stove and other equipment that sends

indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment

like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney

draws well with all other equipment turned off (or

sealed, in the case of ﬁreplaces and/or other stoves),

then you simply need to be careful with timing the use

of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby

window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,

that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake

to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont

Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove

to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.

Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But

with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood

can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote

in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly

and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.

If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane

torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is

seriously overﬁring. The catalyst is a platinum ﬁlm on a

ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures

than the ceramic can take, and overﬁring the catalyst

can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than

you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or

overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to

slow the ﬁre down.

In many cases, local or national codes require the

installation of permanently open air vents, particularly

with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these

codes to determine speciﬁc requirements for your

installation.

Conclusion

Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the

stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user

can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve

good results. If you keep track of your burning habits

and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,

you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe

system.

Back-pufﬁng

Back-pufﬁng results when the ﬁre produces volatile

gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of

the ﬁrebox. The gases back up in the ﬁrebox till they’re

dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove

back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the

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Maintenance

Let the ﬁre in the stove go out and allow the stove to

cool completely before beginning any maintenance

procedure.

4. Install the glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket

with the coated side down (toward the outside of

the door). Tighten the screws snugly, but loose

enough to allow for a little movement of the glass

when the stove is in operation. Overtightening can

crack the glass immediately or cause it to crack if it

is unable to expand when hot.

Care of the Cast Iron Surface

An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the

painted cast iron of your Intrepid looking new.

The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,

clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,

touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.

Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two

light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.

Care of Porcelain Enamel Finish

Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove

spills or stains. For difﬁcult jobs that require a cleaning

agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish

recommended for use on enamel surfaces.

Cleaning the Glass

Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off

during hot ﬁres. However, the ash residue that accumu-

lates on the glass surface should be removed regularly

to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the

glass:

Rope

Gasket

• Be sure the glass is completely cool.

• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made

especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive

cleaners.

• Rinse the glass thoroughly.

• Dry the glass completely.

KT160

Fig. 28 Door glass installation.

Check the Operation of the

Primary Air Shutter

The primary air shutter is visible from the back of the

stove. The shutter must open and close freely when

you move the thermostat lever. If it does not, check for

any obstruction, or for a bound or stretched chain need-

ing adjustment. (Fig. 29)

Glass Replacement

Replace glass only with Part no. 140-1156 right side

and 140-1157 left side glass panels. The glass panel

rests on a cushion provided by a rope gasket part no

1203556, and is held in place by clips. (Fig. 28) The

glass is IR coated on one side which is marked “THIS

SIDE OUT”.

On a cold stove the shutter should be open no more

than 1/8” (3mm) when the primary air control lever is

pushed completely to the left (closed), as seen from the

back of the stove. When the lever is pushed completely

to the right (open), the shutter should be open to an

angle of approximately 70° from the stove back.

1. Remove the door from the stove and place it on a

sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect

the porcelain enamel ﬁnish.

The ball chain should measure 216 mm (8¹⁄₂”) from

connection to the thermostat coil to connection on the

primary air ﬂap.

2. Remove the retainer clips. (Two phillips head

screws on each clip.)

3. Inspect the gasket. If the window gasket is in good

condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace

it, use only Part No. 1203556. Be sure the channel

around the window opening is clean, and free of

dust.

If setting is incorrect, the thermostat coil may be bent or

broken. Call your Vermont Castings Dealer for assis-

tance.

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Tighten the Damper Handle as Needed

Thermostat Lever

The damper handle is attached to the damper rod

with a set screw bearing against a ﬂat spot on the rod.

Check the set screw periodically for tightness; tighten

as needed.

Damper Adjustment

When the stove damper is closed, the pressure of the

rod against the damper plate assures a good seal be-

tween the damper and the damper housing. Adjustment

may be needed after a period of time to retain adequate

pressure.

Primary Air Shutter

To make this adjustment, start with the damper in the

closed and locked position. (Fig. 31) Loosen the 7/16”

locking nut in the center of the damper. Use a 1/8” Allen

wrench to turn the Allen screw a full turn clockwise. Test

the damper for snugness, and continue adjusting the

Allen screw as needed. Tighten the 7/16” locking nut

when the damper operates smoothly but ﬁrmly.

ST524

Fig. 29 The primary air shutter must move freely.

How to Adjust the Door Latch

Over time, the gasketing around the doors will com-

press, and the latch may need adjustment. To adjust

the latch, loosen the small locking nut, extend the

striker screw one turn while keeping the striker screw

from turning. (Fig. 30) Keep making adjustments a little

at a time until the setting is right.

Thermostat Cover

D-plate

The front doors of the stove should close securely and

tightly, when the handle is in the closed position. When

the latch is properly adjusted there should be a slight

resistance as the doors are moved to the completely

closed position.

Damper Actuator

Rod

Handle

Damper

Pawl

Small Lock-

ing Nut

Locking Nut

Allen Head Ad-

justment Screw

Striker Screw

ST532

Fig. 31 Tighten the damper adjustment screw for a snug

seal.

Large Lock-

ing Nut

Set Screw

Handle Stub

ST531

Fig. 30 Turn the door latch striker screw in or out to tighten or

loosen the door latch.

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You should see signiﬁcantly more smoke after the sec-

ond step, when the stove damper is open and smoke

does not go through the combustor. However, do not

confuse smoke with steam form wet wood; steam dis-

appears rapidly in the air, smoke does not.

The Catalytic Combustion System

Inspection and Cleaning

This wood heater includes a catalytic combustor, which

needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper

operation. In the United States, it is against the law to

operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with

the operating instructions in this manual, or if the cata-

lytic element is deactivated or removed.

If this test indicates a problem, consider other possible

factors as well, such as the time of year or a change

in the quality of your fuel. In spring and fall, draft is

weaker than it is during colder winter weather, and ﬁres

can burn sluggishly. Small, hot ﬁres are a good solution

under these conditions.

Under normal operating conditions the catalytic element

should remain active for two to six years (depending on

the amount of wood burned). However, it is important

to monitor the combustor periodically to ensure that it

is functioning properly as well as to determine when it

needs to be replaced.

“Green” (insufﬁciently seasoned) wood will burn more

poorly than properly seasoned fuel. You may have to

run your stove hotter (with more primary air) to achieve

good performance if you are burning green or wet

wood.

A probe thermostat, passing through the back of the

stove into the catalytic combustion chamber, automati-

cally regulates the catalytic combustion air supply.

Deterioration of the probe may result in decreased

catalytic combustor performance.

Also, consider any changes in your burning routine.

Once you have ruled out any other possible causes for

decline in performance, you may inspect the combus-

tor and probe. Wear a dust mask, safety glasses, and

gloves. Refer to Figure 32 as a guide.

A poorly-functioning catalytic combustion system will

result in a loss of heating efﬁciency, and an increase in

creosote and emissions.

1. Remove the andirons.

2. Reach inside the stove with a pair of pliers and turn

the two clamps that hold the ﬁreback 90°. Turn the

left clamp clockwise, and the right clamp counter-

clockwise.

The combustor should be visually inspected in place for

ﬂy ash accumulation and physical damage three times

per year. Do not remove the combustor unless a more

detailed inspection is warranted because of diminished

performance as outlined below, or to inspect the probe

thermostat.

3. Grasp the ﬁreback by its vertical ribs and remove it,

together with the attached throat hood. Pull the left

side out ﬁrst.

The refractory package that houses the catalytic com-

bustor should be inspected annually for a buildup of ﬂay

ash, and cleaned if necessary. This may be done during

examination of the combustor.

4. Carefully clean the left and right exhaust pockets of

the refractory package. Use a shop vacuum, ideally

one with a very ﬁne ﬁlter, and be careful to avoid

damaging the refractory material. This material can

stand high temperatures, but it is somewhat brittle

physically.

The probe thermostat should be inspected annually, or

more often if decreased catalytic combustion perfor-

mance is not due to a defective combustor.

5. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front

of the catalytic element.

When to Suspect a Combustion

System Problem

6. Gently slide the catalytic element out of the refrac-

tory chamber. Check the element and the bottom of

the chamber for a buildup of ﬂy ash.

The best way to evaluate the performance of your In-

trepid II’s combustion system is to watch the amount of

smoke leaving the chimney - both when the combustor

has achieved “light-off” and when it has not. Follow this

procedure:

7. If the catalytic element is clogged, take it outdoors

for cleaning. Blow gently through the honeycomb. A

large amount of ﬂy ash may come out of the ele-

ment.

8. Inspect the element. Although small hairline cracks

will not affect performance, the element should be

largely intact. If the element is broken in pieces or

has large sections missing, replace it. Call your

dealer for a replacement element, part no. 160-

2521.

With a ﬁre going and the combustor activated, with the

damper closed to send smoke through the combustor

as described in the Operation Section, go outside and

watch the smoke leaving the chimney.

Then, open the stove damper and again watch the

smoke leaving the chimney.

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6. Remove the damper housing. It is held in place by

two weld screws and two chrome acorn nuts in the

back of the stove. Loosen the chrome acorn nuts

and rotate the tabs to release the damper housing.

You may ﬁnd it necessary to remove or loosen the

thermostat cover to access the one of acorn nuts

installed behind the cover.

Refractory Chamber

INTREPID II

Catalytic Block

7. Remove the rear airtube in the back of the stove

which is held in place with two phillips screws.

Upper

Fireback

with Throat

Hood

8. Take out the secondary probe by removing the upper

phillips screw and sliding the probe out of the hole.

9. Lift the damaged refractory chamber up and out of

the ﬁrebox.

Exhaust

Pockets

Clamps

ST533

10. Reverse the procedure for installing the new refrac-

tory chamber.

Refractory Access Panel

Fig. 32 Removing the catalytic element.

Replace the Stove Gaskets as Needed

9. Use a ﬂashlight and a mirror, inserted into one of

the exhaust pockets of the refractory chamber, to in-

spect the probe. The end of the probe should extend

about 1” into the combustion chamber, and should

not show any signs of deterioration.

The Intrepid uses ﬁberglass rope gaskets to make a

tight seal between some parts. With use, particularly on

those parts that move, gaskets can become brittle and

compressed, and can begin to lose their effectiveness.

These will need periodic replacement.

Use the stove in your usual manner for two weeks,

inspecting the chimney and the chimney connector

frequently.

The sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below, along

with their applications.

Gasket Diameter... And the Parts it Seals

5/16” wire gasket The griddle to the stove top

If creosote does not build up as quickly as before, it is

likely that the performance change was caused by ﬂy

ash deposits on the catalytic element. However, moni-

tor the chimney system for a few weeks to ensure that

proper performance continues.

5/16”

The damper to the upper ﬁre

back; the front doors to the

stove front; and the door

halves to each other

If you continue to ﬁnd a signiﬁcant creosote buildup or if

you continue to see excessive smoke from the chimney,

the catalytic element will need to be replaced. Call your

dealer for information about a replacement.

There is a ﬂat, die-cut gasket between each glass panel

and its door. See page 25 for information on replacing

the glass panel or its gasket.

If you need to change a gasket, ﬁrst obtain an appropri-

ate replacement from your Vermont Castings, Dealer.

NOTE: Use only replacement catalyst, part no. 160-

2521.

Wait until the ﬁre is out and the stove has cooled. Be

sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working

with dusty materials: Wear safety goggles and a dust

mask.

Replace Refractory Package

Refer to Figure 32.

1. Remove andirons.

The procedure for replacing the gaskets is the same,

regardless of the gasket location.

2. Reach inside the stove with a pair of pliers and turn

the two clamps that hold the ﬁreback 90°. Turn the

left clamp clockwise and the right clamp counter-

clockwise. The bolts that hold these clamps are

tapped into the back as well as capped by chrome

acorn nuts in the back.

1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an end and

pulling ﬁrmly.

2. Use a wire brush or a screwdriver to clean the chan-

nel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket. Re-

move stubborn deposits of cement with a cold chisel

if necessary.

3. Grasp the upper ﬁreback by its vertical ribs and re-

move it, together with the attached throat hood. Pull

the left side out ﬁrst.

3. Determine the correct length of the appropriate-sized

gasket by laying it out in the channel. Allow an extra

25-50 mm (1-2”) and mark the spot to be cut.

4. Carefully remove the refractory access panel in front

of the catalytic block.

5. Gently slide the catalytic block out of the refractory

chamber.

4. Remove the gasket from the channel, place it on a

wood cutting surface, and cut it at the marked spot

with a utility knife. Twist the ends slightly to keep the

gasket from unraveling.

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extremely hot ﬁre within the ﬂue system that can dam-

age the chimney and overheat adjacent combustible

material.

5. Lay an unbroken 3 mm (1/8”) bead of gasket cement

in the newly-cleaned channel. Starting at one end,

press the gasket into the channel. Ensure a good

joint where the gasket meets before trimming any

excess. Do not overlap the gasket ends or leave

ends with ragged edges.

If you do have a chimney ﬁre, act promptly to:

• Close the damper and thermostat lever.

• Get everyone out of the house.

6. Press the gasketed part ﬁrmly against its normal

mating surface to seat the gasket evenly in its chan-

nel.

• Call the Fire department.

You should inspect the system every two weeks during

the heating season as part of a regular maintenance

schedule. To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool

completely. Then, using a mirror and a strong light,

sight up through the ﬂue collar into the chimney ﬂue. If it

is not possible to inspect the ﬂue system in this fashion

the stove must be disconnected to provide better view-

ing access.

7. For doors, replace the doors and close them on

a piece of waxed paper to keep the cement from

migrating onto the stove front, or tap other parts with

the rubber mallet (or hammer/block of wood).

8. Clean excess cement from around the channel. Let

the cement that holds the new gasket dry thoroughly.

Adjust the Door if Necessary

If a signiﬁcant layer of creosote has accumulated -3 mm

(1/8”) or more - remove it to reduce the risk of a chim-

ney ﬁre.

The door latch or damper mechanism may need adjust-

ment after you have regasketed them. Initially, it may

require loosening to accommodate the new gasket; af-

ter a few weeks, it may need tightening to compensate

for compression of the new gasket. The directions for

adjusting the latch and damper are on Page 26.

Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and

shape as the ﬂue liner. Flexible ﬁberglass rods are used

to run the brush up and down the liner, causing any

deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they

can be removed through the clean out door.

Permanent Gaskets

The chimney connector should be cleaned by discon-

necting the sections, taking them outside, and removing

any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the con-

nector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure the

individual sections with sheet metal screws.

Other gaskets seal between non-moving parts, but

these are not subject to the same wear and deteriora-

tion as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely that you

will ever need to replace these gaskets unless the

involved parts are disassembled and then put back

together. If this is the case, the job should be done only

by a qualiﬁed service technician. The diameter of the

gasket that seals these non-moving parts is 5/16”, and

the areas sealed are the ﬂue collar to the stove back;

and the lower ﬁreback to the sides. The glass panels

use a special die-cut ﬂat gasket; refer to Page 23 for

information on these.

If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself,

contact your local Vermont Castings authorized dealer

or hire a professional chimney sweep.

Annual Maintenance

Every spring, at the end of the heating season, perform

a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair. The stove

and chimney system should be inspected and main-

tained by a qualiﬁed engineer.

The Chimney System

Creosote

• Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connec-

tor.

Your Intrepid II is designed to reduce creosote buildup

signiﬁcantly. However, regular chimney inspection and

maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good

stove performance, and to protect your chimney and

chimney connector, inspect the chimney and chimney

connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if

necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector

system clean can result in a serious chimney ﬁre.

• Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration.

Replace weak sections of prefabricated chimney.

Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.

• Inspect the chimney connector and replace any

damaged sections.

• Check gasketing for wear or compression, and

replace if necessary. A ‘paper test’ will guide you on

this. Close and lock the door or damper on a slip of

paper and then try to pull the paper out. If the paper

pulls out with little or no resistance, the gasket is not

snug enough at that spot. If adjusting the damper or

latch does not result in a seal that makes it hard to

pull the paper out, replace the gasketing.

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar, organic

vapors and moisture that combine to form creosote.

The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool

chimney ﬂue. As a result, creosote residue accumulates

on the ﬂue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an

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• Inspect and clean the catalytic block, and vacuum

out the ash at the bottom of the back plate after

removing the lower ﬁreback. Lightly clean the refrac-

tory assembly that houses the element. Be careful

not to damage the refractory material, which is very

fragile.

• Check heat shield screws. Tighten as necessary.

• Clean dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear and

connector heat shields.

• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with

moisture absorbing material (such as cat litter) to

keep the stove interior dry. Close the stove door to

keep cats from using the litter.

• Inspect the secondary probe thermometer.

• Check door and damper handles for tightness. Ad-

just if needed.

• Touch up the paint on black stoves.

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Appendix: Catalytic Combustor

In any chemical reaction, including the combustion

process, there are certain conditions which must be

met before the reaction can take place. For example, a

reaction may require a certain temperature, or a certain

concentration of the reactants (the combustion gases

and oxygen), or a certain amount of time. Catalysts,

though not changed themselves during the reaction,

have the ability to act at a molecular level to change

these requirements. In the Intrepid II’s secondary

combustion chamber the catalyst reduces the tempera-

ture at which secondary combustion can start from the

540 - 650° C (1000 - 1200° F) range to the 260 - 315° C

(500 - 600° F) range, increasing efﬁciency, and reduc-

ing creosote and emissions.

Masking and Poisoning

While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combus-

tion process, it is possible for certain elements, such

as lead and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on the

surface of the honeycomb. Though the catalyst is still

there, it is covered, or masked, by the contaminant, and

cannot function. To avoid this situation, it is important

not to burn anything in your Intrepid II that is a source

of these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or

treated wood, coal, household trash, colored papers,

metal foils, or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may

also contain harmful elements. The safest approach is

to burn only untreated, natural wood.

The catalytic reaction, though advantageous, does

have some limitations of its own. Primary among these

it that the reactants (the gases) come into close physi-

cal contact with the catalyst itself.

Flame Impingement

The catalytic element is not designed for exposure to

direct ﬂame. If you continually overﬁre your Intrepid

II, the chemistry of the catalyst coating may be altered,

inhibiting the combustion process. A glowing stove part

at the back of the ﬁrebox is a sign of over-ﬁring.

To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element

in your Intrepid II is composed of a ceramic base in the

shape of a honeycomb. On each of the honeycomb’s

many surfaces a coating of the catalyst (usually a

noble metal such as platinum or palladium) is applied.

The large surface area exposed in this conﬁguration

ensures that the combustion gases have the greatest

opportunity to come in contact with the catalyst.

Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also oc-

cur, causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within the

recommended guidelines of the Operation section.

Mechanical Damage

If the element is mishandled, damage may occur.

Always treat the element carefully. Remember the

catalyst is made of a ceramic material; treat it as you

would ﬁne china. Hairline cracks will not affect the

performance of the catalyst, as long as the steel sleeve

holds the element in the proper position.

Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several

ways. First you may notice an increase in fuel con-

sumption. Second, there will be a visible increase in the

rate at which creosote builds up in your chimney con-

nector system. You may also notice a heavy discharge

of smoke from the chimney. A number of catalytic

problems which can cause loss of activity are described

below:

Peeling

Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalytic

element is frequently subjected to excessive tempera-

tures. Follow the operating instructions carefully to

avoid this type of damage.

Blockage

While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, it

also increases the resistance to ﬂow of the combustion

gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides

more places for creosote and ﬂy ash to deposit. It is

important to follow the operating instructions in order

to minimize these deposits, and to periodically inspect

your catalyst for signs of blockage.

Every CFM Corporation product is equipped with either

a Corning “Long-Life”^®or a Technical Glass Products

“Honeycomb”^®. The products are equivalent. If for any

reason you must ship your catalytic element, remem-

ber its fragile nature. Place the element in a plastic

bag, and package it with a generous amount of shock

absorbing material.

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

22a

0966

CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, speciﬁcations, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,

without notice.

Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Model 1990CE

Item Description

Part Number

Item Description

Part Number

1. Secondary Air Cover

2. Flue Collar

3. Back Panel

4. Damper Rod

5. Damper Clip

6. Damper

7. Damper Housing

8. Throat Hood

9. Weld Screw

1306762

See Chart Pg. 29

1308662

12. 3/8” - 16 x 1¹⁄₂” Hex Bolt

13. Lower Fireback

15. Rear Air Tube

16. Thermostat Cover

17. Damper Handle Assembly

18. Friction Spring

20. Thermostat Clip

21. Ball Chain Fitting (2)

22. Ball Chain

22a. Thermostat Assembly

23. Primary Air Flap

1201456

1306704

1308658

1306711

5004265

1201846

1601408

1201972

1201960

5005506

1306710

1602523

1306725

1306701

1306702

30001649

1201583

1306703

10. Upper Fireback

11. Fireback Clamp

1306724

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CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, speciﬁcations, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,

without notice.

Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Model 1990CE (continued)

Item Description

24. Air Flap Pin

25. Clip

26. #10-24 x 3/8” Pan Head Bolt

27. #10-24 x 1/4” Pan Head Bolt

28. Secondary Probe Assembly

29. Secondary Air Link

30. Phillips Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 5/8”

31. Shim Ring

Part Number

Item Description

Part Number

1601551

1601396

1200983

1200980

1601489

1601486

1200896

1201986

1601490

1602527

30001153

35. Refractory Access Panel

36. Andiron

37. Left Insert

38. Grate

39. Right Insert

40. Ashpan Only

41. Ashpan Front Only

42. Ashpan Handle

43. Damper Tab

44. Griddle

1602516

1306717

1308651

1308652

1308650

1400951

1306493

30000973

1601488

1306356

1301832

32. Secondary Air Flap

33. Refractory Chamber w/ Access Panel

34. Catalyst Block

45. Right Griddle Quad

30003840

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Model 1990CE (continued)

Item Description

46. Left Griddle Quad

47. Top

48. Right Side

49. Bottom

50. Left Side

51. Leg

52. Tie Rod

53. Leg Bolt, 3/8”-16 x 1” Hex Bolt

54. Right Air Manifold

55. Left Air Manifold

56. Handle Holder

57. Front

58. Left Door

59. Left Glass Panel²

60. Right Door

61. Right Glass Panel²

62. Handle Bolt, 1/4”-20 x 3³⁄₈”¹

63. Ceramic Handle¹

64. Handle Insert¹

65. Front Door Handle

66. Griddle Handle Assembly

67. Gasket, Fiberglas 3/16” Rnd, Blk

68. Latch Assembly

69. Glass Clips, Bottom

70. Glass Clips, Side

71. Glass Clips, Top

72. Nut, Jam

Part Number

1301807

Please record the following information

for future reference.

See Chart Pg. 29

1601640

Stove Serial No. _____________________

Dealer ____________________________

__________________________________________

Phone _____________________________

Date Purchased _____________________

1201432

1308654

1308653

1600600

See Chart Pg. 29

1401157

See Chart Pg. 29

1401156

Installer ___________________________

__________________________________________

Phone _____________________________

Date Installed _______________________

1201294

20006381

30002714

30002719

30002775

1203556

5004025

30000832

NOTES:

1. Part of assembly 0004345.

2. The glass panels have a heat-reﬂective coating on the

outside and are not interchangeable.

30000833

30000834

1203290

73. Ashpan Assembly

5003522

Shell Enamel Parts - Intrepid II Model 1990

Enamel

Color

Left

Side

Right

Side

Flue

Collar

Left Door Right Door Single

Top

Bottom

Front

Only

Leg

Classic

Biscuit

Bordeaux 2328657

Chestnut

1308657

1306764 1308656 1308655 1306561 1308647

1308649

1308648 1306333

30003178 30003182

2328648 2326333

30003180 30003174 30003176 30003175 30003181 30003177 30003179

2326764 2328656 2328655 2326561 2328647

2328649

Brown

Ebony

30003190 30003184 30003186 30003185 30003191 30003187 30003189

30003200 30003194 30003196 30003195 30003201 30003197 30003199

30001888 30003192

30003198 30003202

Forest

Green

2318657

2316764 2318656 2318655 2316561 2318647

2318649

2318648 2316333

Midnight

Blue

Sand

2378657

1328657

2376764 2378656 2378655 2376561 2378647

1326764 1328656 1328655 1326561 1328647

2378649

1328649

2378648 2376333

1328648 1326333

Suede

Brown

Vt.Classic

Green

30002571 30002567 30002569 30002568 30002508 30002570 30002506

30003210 30003204 30003206 30003205 30003211 30003207 30003209

30002505 30002509

30003208 30003212

30003840

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

30003840

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove

Warranty

Exclusions & Limitations

1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original retail pur-

chase is required.

Limited 3 Year Warranty

CFM Corporation warrants that this woodburning stove will be free of de-

fects in material and workmanship for a period of three years from the date

you receive it, except that the catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass

door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.

2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove. Misuse includes

overﬁring which will result if the stove is used in such a manner as

to cause one or more of the plates to glow red. Overﬁring can be

identiﬁed later by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment

has burned off. Overﬁring in enamel ﬁreplaces is identiﬁed by bub-

bling, cracking, chipping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel

ﬁnish. CFM Corporation offers no warranty on chipping of enamel

surfaces. Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for

any damage to the enamel.

CFM Corporation will repair or replace, at its option, any part found

to be defective upon inspection by a Vermont Castings, Authorized

Dealer. The customer must return the defective part or the stove, with

shipping prepaid, to the Authorized Dealer or pay for any Authorized

Dealer in-home travel fees or service charges for in-home repair work.

It is the dealer’s option whether the repair work will be done in the cus-

tomer’s home or in the dealer’s shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is

found to be the fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no

charge to the customer for parts and/or labor.

3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as described

in the Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover an stove which has been

modiﬁed unless authorized by a CFM Corporation representative in

writing. This warranty does not cover damage to the stove caused

by burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel

not recommended in the Owner’s Guide.

Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired or replaced dur-

ing the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the

limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the

original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.

4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by someone other

than a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.

Limited 1 Year Warranty

5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this warranty

but is subject to a claim against the common carrier. Contact

Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased

your stove or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct. (Do not

operate the stove as this may negate the ability to process the claim

with the carrier.)

The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted to be free

of defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from

the date you receive it: The thermostat assembly, handles, glass door

panels, cement, and gasketing. Any of these items found to be defec-

tive will be repaired or replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part

with postage prepaid to a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.

6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not conform to local

building and ﬁre codes or, in their absence, to the recommendations

in our Owner’s Guide.

Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will

be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not

to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6)

months, whichever is longer.

7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-humidity en-

vironment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel ﬁnish. These

conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron beneath the porcelain

enamel ﬁnish, which will cause the porcelain enamel ﬁnish to ﬂake

off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by a salt air or

high-humidity environment.

Limited Catalyst Warranty

The catalyst will be warranted for a six year period as follows: If the

original catalyst or a replacement catalyst proves defective or ceases to

maintain 70% of its particulate emission reduction activity (as measured

by an approved testing procedure) within 24 months from the date the

stove is received, the catalyst itself will be replaced free.

8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance or update any

unit once manufactured.

From 25 - 72 months a pro-rated credit will be allowed against a re-

placement catalyst and the cost of labor necessary for its installation at

the time of replacement.

IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM CORPORATION BE LIABLE FOR INCI-

DENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WAR-

RANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANT-

ABILITY AND FITNESS, ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF

THIS WRITTEN WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL

OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.

For stove purchases made after June 30, 1990, a third year

(25 - 36 months) of no charge replacement will be made when combus-

tor failure is due to thermal degradation of the substrate (crumbling of

ceramic material). The customer must pay for any in-home travel fees,

service charges, or transportation costs for returning the stove to the

Authorized Dealer.

Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidential and

consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty

lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives

you speciﬁc rights and you may have other rights which vary from state

to state.

Amount of Time

Since Purchase

0 - 24 months

25 - 36 months

37 - 48 months

49 - 60 months

61 - 72 months

Credit Towards

Replacement Cost

100%

50 %

30%

20%

10%

How to Obtain Service

If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer should

contact a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer or CFM Corporation if

the purchase was direct with the following information:

Any replacement catalyst will be warranted under the terms of the

catalyst warranty for the remaining term of the original warranty. The

purchaser must provide the following information in order to receive a

replacement catalyst under the terms of this limited warranty:

1. Name, address, and telephone number of the purchaser.

2. Date of purchase.

3. Serial number from the label on the back.

4. Nature of the defect or damage.

1. Name, address and telephone number.

2. Proof of original purchase date.

3. Date of failure of catalyst.

5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., installation,

mode of operation when defect was noted.

A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corporation reserves

the right to withhold ﬁnal approval of a warranty claim pending a visual

inspection of the defect by authorized representatives.

4. Any relevant information or circumstances regarding determina-

tion of failure.

5. In addition, the owner must return the failed catalyst.

30003840

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CFM Corporation

2695 Meadowvale Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 8A3

800-668-5323 • www.cfmcorp.com

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