Vermont Casting Stove 1610CE User Manual

Deﬁant

Non-Catalytic

Woodburning Stove

Model 1610CE

Homeowner’s

Installation and

Operating Manual

For use in Europe

SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND

MAINTAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN

DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION

INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.

Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

The Story of the Deﬁant

No wood-burning appliance, save for Ben Franklin’s Pennsylvania Fireplace, has a stronger heritage than the Ver-

mont Castings Deﬁant. Named for a 19th-century steamship, the original Vermont Castings Deﬁant Wood Stove came

to epitomize America’s resolve and independence during the Energy Crisis of the 1970s.

The year was 1975. With energy prices going through the roof, without an attractive or efﬁcient wood stove to be

found anywhere, two entrepreneurs set out to create a stove that was both beautiful and highly functional. Finely

crafted from cast iron, the Deﬁant was the ﬁrst wood stove to combine an artistically designed exterior with a methodi-

cally engineered interior, using new technologies for efﬁcient combustion.

Americans purchased over a quarter-million Deﬁants, as they rediscovered the common sense of heating with wood,

a home-grown fuel with none of the political and economic entanglements of foreign oil.

Thirteen years later, in 1988, Vermont Castings ‘retired’ the Deﬁant, replacing it with modern wood-burners such as

the Encore.

With its 1998 return, a new Deﬁant incorporated all the ﬁnest aesthetic, convenience, and performance features to be

found on any wood stove. After continued development, this Deﬁant model 1610CE non-catalytic model continues the

tradition of the original Deﬁant while incorporating the very latest combustion technology. In a sense, the new Deﬁant

has been 23 years in the making.

Due to its signiﬁcant role in American history, the original model Deﬁant is in the permanent collection of the Smithso-

nian Institution. Each new purchase of the Deﬁant stove continues that history.

Installation Accessories

Table of Contents

Warming Shelf

Speciﬁcations .................................................4

Installation ......................................................5

Assembly......................................................12

Operation......................................................14

Draft Management........................................19

Maintenance.................................................21

Replacement Parts.......................................25

Warranty.......................................................28

#0210 Classic Black

#0211 Biscuit

#0212 Midnight Blue

#0213 Ebony

#0214 Bordeaux

#0215 Chestnut Brown

#0216 Vt. Classic Green

#3265 Outside Air Kit

#1860 6” x 12” Oval Starter Pipe

#2767 Fan Kit

#0178 Flue Collar Heat Shield

#0168 Connector Pipe Heat Shield

A line of porcelain enamel stove pipe is available

in Biscuit, Bordeaux, Chestnut Brown, Ebony,

Midnight Blue, Vt.Classic Green colors.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Speciﬁcations

Deﬁant, Model 1610CE

Nominal heat output .............14.5 kW (49,500 BTU/hr)¹

Mnimum ﬂue draught.......................12 Pa (0.048” WG)

Mean ﬂue gas temp..............................419° C (786° F)

Efﬁciency (space heating) ...................................72.3%

Area heated.............................223 sq m (2,400 sq. ft.)¹

Fuel size/type .................................610 mm (24”) wood

Flue mass gas ﬂow .......................................... 10.8 g/s

CO emissions (@13% O₂).............................1600 ppm

Loading.....................................................Front and top

Chimney Connector:

Weight ................................................. 222 kg (490 lbs)

Width (leg to leg) .................................. 822 mm (32³⁄₈”)

Depth (leg to leg)..................................... 483 mm (19”)

Height to top of ﬂue collar..................... 759 mm (29⁷⁄₈”)

1. This value can vary depending on how the stove

is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel

used, as well as the design, construction and climatic

location of your home. Figures shown are based on

nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory

conditions and on average efﬁciencies.

for 8” ﬂue collar .................... 203 mm (8”) diameter

Chimney Flue Size:

with 8” Chimney Connector..203 mm (8”) minimum

with 6” Chimney Connector..152 mm (6”) minimum

Flue exit position ........................................ Top or Rear

Primary Air...............................................Manual contol

Secondary Air...............................Fixed, self-regulating

Ash handling system .....................Removable ash pan

Glass panels........................ High-temperature ceramic

Drawing Not to Scale

603 mm

(23��")

457 mm

(18")

Rear Venting

600 mm (23��")

800 mm (31��")

130 mm (5��")

D E F I A N T

733 mm

(28��")

733 mm

(28��")

759 mm

(29��")

660 mm

(26")

822 mm (32��")

483 mm (19")

Fig. 1 Deﬁant NC dimensions.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Installation

SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR DEFIANT IS NOT PROP-

ERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL

BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRIC-

TIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIRE-

MENTS IN YOUR AREA.

Outside Air

In some modern, super-insulated homes, there may be

inadequate air supply for combustion because of insuf-

ﬁcient air inﬁltration into the building. Such air enters a

home through unsealed cracks and openings. Exhaust

fans in kitchens or bathrooms can compete with the

stove for available air and compound the problem.

Before you begin an installation, be sure that:

When poor draft is caused by a low inﬁltration rate,

opening a ground ﬂoor window on the windward side of

the house and near the stove will usually alleviate the

problem.

• Your stove and chimney connector will be far

enough from combustible material to meet all clear-

ance requirements.

• The ﬂoor protector is large enough and is construct-

ed properly to meet all requirements.

For appliances with power outputs above 5 kW a

permanently open air vent is required by Section 2 of

Document J. Air inlet grilles should be positioned so

that they will not be blocked. Refer to local and national

codes for recommended conﬁgurations.

• You have all necessary permits from local authori-

ties.

Your local building ofﬁcial is the ﬁnal authority for ap-

proving your installation as safe and determining that it

meets local and state codes.

Pressure variations within the house do not affect a

stove equipped with an outside air supply, and im-

proved stove performance often results. An Outside Air

Kit for the Deﬁant is available from your local dealer.

The metal label permanently attached to the back of

every Vermont Castings’ stove indicates the stove has

been tested to current standards. The test standard

is EN13240:2001 + A2:2004 for Europe. Clearance

and installation information also is printed on the label.

When the stove is installed according to the information

both on the label and in this manual, local authorities

usually will accept the label as evidence that the instal-

lation meets codes and can be approved.

Chimney Height

Altitude affects chimney performance. When using a

203 mm (8”) oval to 152 mm (6”) ﬂue collar adapter on

the Deﬁant, refer to Figure 1 for suggested chimney

heights at various altitudes. Chimney height should be

measured from the ﬂue collar to the top of the chimney.

The recommended minimum chimney height is 4.8 m

(16”).

However, codes vary in different countries. Before

starting the installation, review your plans with the local

building authority. Your local dealer can provide any ad-

ditional information needed.

IMPORTANT: Failure to follow these installation

instructions may result in a dangerous situation, in-

cluding a chimney or house ﬁre. Follow all instruc-

tions exactly, and do not allow makeshift compro-

mises to endanger property and personal safety.

All local regulations, including those referring to national

and European standards need to be complied with when

installing this stove.

2000 4000 6000 8000 10000 12000

Altitude

ST491

Fig. 2 Chimney height requirements with 152 mm (6”) chim-

ney and/or chimney connector.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

chimney’s clean-out door must seal tightly. A loose or

leaky clean-out door can weaken chimney draft, caus-

ing performance problems.

What Kind of Chimney to Use

You must connect the Deﬁant to a code-approved

masonry chimney with a ﬂue liner, to a relined masonry

chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated

metal chimney. Figure 3 illustrates the two types. The

chimney and chimney connector must be in good condi-

tion and kept clean.

Prefabricated Chimneys

These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)

and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has

been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of

ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 200 mm

(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-

tion causing excessive cooling of the ﬂue gases.

If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be

inspected to ensure it is in a safe condition before

the stove is installed. Your local professional chimney

sweep, building inspector, or ﬁre department ofﬁcial

will be able to inspect the chimney or provide a refer-

ral to someone who can. See “Chimney and Fireplace

hazards”, in the appendix, for particulars.

DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE

SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

Chimney Size

The ﬂue and chimney design must meet requirement

J2, Part J of the building regulations 2000 (Combustion

Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).

A Deﬁant with an 203 mm (8”) ﬂue collar is approved

for venting into a masonry chimney with a nominal ﬂue

size of 203 x 203 mm (8” x 8”) or 203 x 305 mm (8” x

12”), and into a round ﬂue with nominal ﬂue size of 203

mm (8”). A Deﬁant with a 152 mm (6”) ﬂue connector

is approved for venting into a masonry chimney with a

nominal ﬂue size of 203 x 203 mm (8” x 8”), and into a

round ﬂue with nominal ﬂue of 152 mm (6”).

A prefabricated double-

wall insulated chimney

NOTE: When installed with a 152 mm (6”) ﬂue col-

lar, the Deﬁant may not be operated with the front

doors open.

A tile-lined

masonry

chimney

Whatever the ﬂue collar size, a Deﬁant may be vented

into larger chimneys as well. However, chimneys

with liners larger than 203 x 305 mm (8” x 12”) may

experience rapid cooling of smoke and reduction in

draft, especially if the chimneys are located outside the

home. These large chimneys may need to be insulated

or have their ﬂues relined for proper stove performance.

ST241

Fig. 3 Approved chimney types.

Masonry Chimneys

Accessories to help make the connection between

stainless steel chimney liners and your Deﬁant are

available through your local dealer.

An inspection of the chimney must conﬁrm that it has

a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney

should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of

deterioration, and blockage. Repair any defects before

the chimney is used with your stove.

Chimney Connector Guidelines

A chimney connector is the single-wall pipe that con-

nects the stove to the chimney. The chimney itself is the

masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the

ﬂue. Chimney connectors are used only to connect the

stove to the chimney.

Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must

be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney

wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Open-

ings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard

and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.

In the event of a chimney ﬁre, ﬂames and smoke may

be forced out of these unused thimbles.

Connecting Flue Pipes

Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the

building regulations. This can be achieved by the use

connecting ﬂuepipes included in the following catego-

ries:

The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.

A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the

standards of your local building code or, in the absence

of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry

chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved

masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel

pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The

a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS

6999: 1989 (1996);

b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS

EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.4432 or

1.4436 with ﬂue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

ﬂue collar with three #10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws.

Lift off the griddle, and shield the stove’s surface

between the griddle opening and the front of the ﬂue

collar to protect the ﬁnish when you drill the front

hole.

c) Mild steel ﬂuepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:

1991, with a ﬂue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;

d) Cast iron ﬂuepipes complying with BS 41: 1973

(1998).

Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be

ﬁtted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-

densates and moisture within the ﬂue. Joints should be

made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,

or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-

tible rope and ﬁre cement.

• Fasten each joint between sections of chimney

connector, including telescoping joints, with at least

three (3) sheet metal screws. The pre-drilled holes in

the top of each section of chimney connector serve

as guides when you drill 3 mm (1/8”) holes in the

bottom of the next section.

Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge

or heavier steel. Do not use galvanized connector; it

cannot withstand the high temperatures that can be

reached by smoke and exhaust gases, and may release

toxic fumes under high heat. The connector may be

152 mm (6”) or 203 mm (8”) in diameter.

• Fasten the chimney connector to the chimney.

Instructions for various installations follow. Figure 6

illustrates the general layout of chimney connector

parts.

• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector

are correct distances from nearby combustible mate-

rials.

If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through

a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-

bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section on Wall

Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an

attic, a closet or similar concealed space. The whole

connector should be exposed and accessible for in-

spection and cleaning.

NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form

telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-

nector are available to simplify installations. They often

eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.

Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.

In horizontal runs of un shielded chimney connector,

maintain a distance of 762 mm (30”) from the ceiling.

Keep it as short and direct as possible, with no more

than two 90° turns. Slope horizontal runs of connector

upward 6mm per meter (1/4” per foot) going from the

stove toward the chimney. The recommended maximum

length of a horizontal run is 914 mm (36”), and the total

length should be no longer than 2.4 m (8’). In cathedral

ceiling installations, extend the prefabricated chimney

downward to within 2.4 m (8’) of the stove. This will help

maintain a good draft by keeping the smoke warm, so

that it rises readily.

Securing the Single-wall Connector to a

Prefabricated Chimney

Follow the installation instructions of the chimney manu-

facturer exactly as you install the chimney. The manu-

facturer of the chimney will supply the accessories to

support the chimney, either from the roof of the house,

at the ceiling of the room where the stove is installed, or

from an exterior wall.

Special adapters are available from your local dealer to

make the connection between the prefabricated chim-

ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-

ers attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s

ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adapter

is screwed to the chimney connector.

Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cut-

ting or joining sections of chimney connector.

Single-wall Chimney Connectors

These adapters are designed so the top end will ﬁt out-

side the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom end

will ﬁt inside the ﬁrst section of chimney connector.

• Begin assembly at the ﬂue collar of the stove. Insert

the ﬁrst crimped

end into the stove’s

ﬂue collar, and

keep each crimped

end pointing toward

the stove. (Fig. 4)

Using the holes

Securing the Single-wall Connector to a

Masonry Chimney

Toward

Stove

Both freestanding masonry chimneys and ﬁreplace

masonry chimneys may be used for your installation.

in the ﬂue collar

as guides, drill 3

mm (1/8”) holes

in the bottom of

the ﬁrst section of

chimney connector

and secure it to the

Freestanding Installations

Flue Gas

Direction

If the chimney connector must pass through a com-

bustible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recom-

mendations in the Wall Pass-Through section that

follows. The opening through the chimney wall to the

ﬂue (the “breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or

metal cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented

ST242

Fig. 4 Chimney connector.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney con-

nector can be extended through the breech to the inner

face of the ﬂue liner, and cemented securely in place.

Additional pieces of connector are then attached with

sheet metal screws.

Chimney

Flue

Elbow

Flue In-

ner

Fireplace Installations

Slip Pipe

Thimble

The chimney connector may be connected to the

chimney above the ﬁreplace opening or through the

ﬁreplace.

Standard

Connector

Oval to

Round Adapter

Above the Fireplace

Flue Collar

The Deﬁant may be connected to a chimney above

a ﬁreplace opening. (Fig. 7) In such installations, the

stove is positioned on the hearth in front of the ﬁreplace

and the chimney connector rises from the stove top and

then angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. The

chimney liner should extend to the point at which the

chimney connector enters the chimney.

ST492

Fig. 5 An exploded view of the chimney connection in a free-

standing masonry installation.

Check These

Clearances

securely in place. Most chimney breeches incorporate

thimbles, but the ﬁt must be snug and the joint between

the thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented

ﬁrmly.

A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly

smaller in diameter than standard connectors and

most thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney

connector system for inspection and cleaning. (Fig. 6)

Thimble sleeves are available from your local dealer.

Mantel

To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until

it is ﬂush with the inner ﬂue wall. Do not extend it into

the actual ﬂue passage, as this could interfere with the

draft.

Seal

This Off

Thimble Sleeve

ST244a

Flue

Fig. 7 In this installation, the chimney connector attaches to

the chimney above the ﬁreplace opening.

Chimney Connector

If the chimney connector in your installation enters the

chimney above a ﬁreplace, follow all the guidelines

mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addi-

tion, give special consideration to the following points:

Keep

sleeve

end ﬂush

with ﬂue

tile

• Check the clearance between the stove and the

chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the

mantel.

ST243

Fig. 6 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be

• Check the clearance between the chimney connec-

tor and the ceiling. The clearance should be at least

762 mm (30”) with unshielded connectors. Consult

the clearance charts for other installation options.

cemented securely in place.

The thimble sleeve should protrude 25-51 mm (1-2”)

into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing

to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the

chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with

sheet metal screws.

• The ﬁreplace damper must be sealed to prevent

room air from escaping up the ﬂue. However, it

must be possible to re-open the damper to inspect

or clean the chimney.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Your local dealer or your local building inspector can

provide details for other approved methods of passing

a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your

area.

Through the Fireplace

If your ﬁreplace opening height is at least 737 mm (29"),

you may install a Deﬁant through the opening using a

“positive connection” kit, available from your local deal-

er. Positive connection kits ensure a tight ﬁt between

the stove ﬂue collar and the chimney ﬂue. (Fig. 8)

DO NOT CONNECT THE DEFIANT TO ANY AIR DIS-

TRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.

Fireplace installations, whether connected to the ﬂue

above or through the ﬁreplace opening, have special

clearance requirements to adjacent trim and the mantel.

You’ll ﬁnd the required safe clearances for Deﬁant ﬁre-

place installations on Page 12.

460 mm (18”) clear-

ance between pipe and

sides/top/bottom of

opening

Floor protection requirements also apply to ﬁreplace

installations.

ST494

Flexible

Connector

Fig. 9 An approved wall pass-through for Canada.

Hearths

Mantel Shield

This appliance must be installed on to hearth that

Fireplace Adapter Kit

“Positive Connection”

meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-

lations 2000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage

Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the

hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the

guidelines included in section 2 of approved document

‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-

lows:

The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-

cordance with the recommendations in document J,

and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum

depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or

a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a

recessed hearth a) above).

ST245

Fig. 8 Through the ﬁreplace installation.

Wall Pass-Throughs

Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-

nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you

are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,

check with your building inspector before you begin.

Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer

for any speciﬁc requirements.

Accessories are available for use as wall pass-

throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been

tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.

Figure 9 shows one method of passing a connector

through a wall. All combustible material in the wall is cut

away to provide the required 457 mm (18”) clearance

for the connector. The resulting space must remain

empty. A ﬂush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used

on one side only. If covers must be used on both sides,

each cover must be mounted on noncombustible spac-

ers at least 25 mm (1”) clear of the wall.

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Costructional Hearth

Dimensions as below

At least 150 mm

or to a suitable

heat resistant wall

Appliance

Doors

Appliance

Doors

Hearth Surface

Free of Com-

bustible Material

At least

150 mm

Perimeter should be

clearly marked e.g.

edge of superimposed

hearth

clearly marked e.g.

edge of superimposed

hearth

At least

300 mm

a) Fireplace recess

b) Free standing

ST912

Fig. 10 Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.

Clearance is the distance between either your stove or

chimney connector, and nearby walls, ﬂoors, the ceiling,

and any other ﬁxed combustible surface. The Deﬁant

has speciﬁc clearance requirements that have been

established after careful research and testing. These

clearance requirements must be strictly observed.

Floor Protection for Fireplace Installation

Do not assume that your ﬁreplace hearth is completely

noncombustible. Many ﬁreplace hearths do not satisfy

the “completely noncombustible” requirement because

the brick or concrete in front of the ﬁreplace opening

is supported by heavy wood framing. Because heat

passes readily through brick or concrete, it can easily

pass through to the wood. As a result, such ﬁreplace

hearths can be a ﬁre hazard and are considered a com-

bustible ﬂoor.

In addition, keep furnishings and other combustible

materials away from the stove. In general, a distance

of 1219 mm (48”) must be maintained between the

stove and moveable combustible items such as drying

clothes, furniture, newspapers, ﬁrewood, etc. Keep-

ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby

surfaces and objects will not overheat.

For all ﬁreplace installations, follow the ﬂoor protection

guidelines described above, including the need for bottom

and ash door heat shields. Keep in mind that many raised

hearths will extend less than the required clearance from

the front of the heater. In such cases, sufﬁcient ﬂoor pro-

tection as described above must be added in front of the

hearth to satisfy the minimum ﬂoor protector requirement

from the front of the stove: 410 mm (16”). Hearth rugs do

not satisfy the requirement for ﬂoor protection as they are

not ﬁre proof.

Clearances

As with any solid fuel heating stove, extremely high

surface temperatures can occur, particularly in the

event of uncontrolled operation, e.g. if the doors

are inadvertently left open. It is crucial that suf-

ﬁcient clearances are allowed to any combustible

surfaces, e.g. wooden mantels or lintels, and to

timber framed (studded) walls even if they are faced

with noncombustible board. Detailed information

on ﬁreplace and hearth construction is provided

in section 2 of Document J, all installations must

comply with these requirements or with the relevant

National or local building standards.

Fireplace installations also have special clearance

requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim and

ﬁreplace mantel. Refer to the information on ﬁreplace

and mantel trim shields in this section.

Keep the Stove a Safe Distance

From Surrounding Materials

Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are in-

cluded below. There are no speciﬁc minimum clearanc-

es to solid noncombustible surfaces (e.g. the sides and

rear of Inglenook ﬁre openings constructed from solid

masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls

of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances

of 125 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm

are recommended.

Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in

all directions when operating, and nearby combustible

materials can overheat dangerously if they are too close

to the heat source. A safe installation requires that ad-

equate clearance be maintained between the hot stove

and its connector and nearby combustibles.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Summary of Clearances

Minimum recommended side clearances to non-

combustible surfaces 125 mm (5”).

Minimum recommended rear clearance to noncom-

bustible surfaces 50 mm (2”).

NOTE: The minimum thickness of solid noncombus-

tible materials is speciﬁed in section 2 of Document ‘J’,

in relation to the clearance of the appliance from the

surface. As a general rule, the thickness of solid non-

combustible material forming the recess of a ﬁreplace is

a minimum of 200 mm.

ST486a

Fig. 11 Minimum clearances.

Connecting Flue Pipe - Clearances

Minimum rear clearance from combustible walls

(e.g. timber framed or studded walls) 890 mm (35”)

measured from the rear edge of the stove top. (Fig.

11, B)

Single wall connecting ﬂuepipes can reach extremely

high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-

necting ﬂuepipe (chimney connector) must comply with

the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 2000

(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).

This can be achieved by following the recommenda-

tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in

Figure 12.

Minimum side clearance from combustible walls

610 mm (24”) measured from the side edge of the

stove top. (Fig. 11, A)

Minimum distance from stove to movable combus-

tible materials (e.g. furniture, drying clothes, etc.)

1220 mm (48”).

at least

3 x D

at least

1.5 x D

at least 3 x D

at least

1.5 x D

Fluepipe

at least

1.5 x D

at least

1.5 x D

Air space of at least 12 mm

between noncombustible shield

and combustible material

Plan Without

Shield

at least 1.5

x D

Elevation

Without

Shield

Plan With

Shield

Elevation

With Shield

ST911

Fig. 12 Connecting ﬂuepipe clearances.

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Assembly

Storing the Handle

Set Up Your Stove

Use the removable handle to open or close the doors.

After using it, remove the handle so it will not get hot.

Store the handle in the handle holder installed behind

the right front leg. (Fig. 19)

Cast iron stoves are heavy, and it will take two to four

people to move your Deﬁant into position.

Wipe the protective coating of oil from the griddle with a

clean dry rag or a paper towel.

Install the handle on the griddle. Slip the bolt through a

washer, a nylon bushing, then through the handle and

the other bushing, then through the steel spacer and

into the griddle tab. (Fig. 17) Tighten securely.

Bottom Heat Shield

Door Handle Holder

Spacer

Leg Bolt and Washer

Fig. 19 Handle holder and heat shield positions.

Install the Bottom Heat Shield

ST564

Bushings

Knob

Washer

Bolt

NOTE: The Bottom Heat Shield is required in most

installations. Refer to Floor Protection, Page 10, for

further details.

ST536

Fig. 17 Attach the griddle handle.

1. Loosen the four 10-24 x 1/2” hex head bolts from the

corners of the ash drop on the stove bottom.

3. Align the bottom heat shield holes with the four

bolts. The outside air cutout hole should be toward

the rear of the stove.

4. Tighten the four hex head bolts securely after pass-

ing all four bolts through the large end of the key-

holes and then pulling the shield forward to engage

the smaller ends of the keyhole slots. (Fig. 20)

Install Stove Legs

The stove is shipped with the legs attached. In some

instances, the legs may have been removed. Fol-

low these instructions to reattach the legs. Install the

stove legs (Fig. 21) using the hex head bolts from the

parts bag. Use 3/8” washers with all four legs; the door

handle holder installs on the right front leg. Position the

holder so the hole to accept the handle hub faces out

from the right side of the stove. Tighten the bolts ﬁrmly.

CAUTION: Overtightening can strip tapped threads.

NOTE: When moving the stove, lift the stove to take

weight off the legs whenever possible. Dragging or

sliding the stove, especially across rough surfaces can

cause the legs to loosen or even break.

Bottom Heat Shield

ST857

Leg Bolt and

Washer

Fig. 20 Attach the optional bottom heat shield.

5. Attach the right side of the heat shield to the handle

holder using a #10 1/2” phillips sheet metal screw.

ST858

Fig. 18 Attach the stove legs.

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Install the Optional Ash Door Heat Shield

Many installations will require the use of the supplied

ash door heat shield. Refer to the “Floor Protection”

sections starting on Page 9 to determine if your installa-

tion requires the use of the ash door heat shield.

DEFIANT

1. Remove the two Phillips pan head screws from the

ash door.

2. Insert the screws through the ash door heat shield

(from the painted side), place the 8 mm (5/16”)

spacers over the screws, and carefully thread them

back into the original holes. (Fig. 21) The curved lip

should be upward, under the ashlip of the stove.

ST539

Fig. 22 Attach the thermostat handle.

3. Tighten securely.

ST540

Fig. 23 Assemble the front door handle.

Fan Kit Installation

1. Attach the fan assembly at the bottom edge of the inner

back with two (2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex head screws.

Spacers

ST538

Fig. 21 Install the ashdoor heat shield.

2. Attach snapstat to the mounting holes on the underside

of the bottom with two (2) 1/4-20 pan head screws.

Adjust the Leg Levellers

3. Attach the rheostat holder (provided with the stove)

under the right front wing of the bottom heat shield with

two (2) #10 sheet metal screws.

Lift the stove slightly so there is no weight on the leg

while making the adjustment.

4. Attach the rheostat to its holder by inserting the rheo-

stat control shaft through the holder hole. Install the

retaining ring and rheostat knob onto the shaft.

Reverse the Flue Collar (If necessary)

Reverse the ﬂue collar by removing the two screws that

attach it to the back of the stove. Be sure the gasket

around the ﬂue collar opening is in position when you

screw the collar back onto the stove.

5. Secure the rheostat cable to the underside of the bot-

tom heat shield using the wire tie provided and the hole

at the right rear edge of the heat shield.

6. Fan will not operate until stove reaches approximately

43° C (109° F).

Attach the Damper Handle

Use the 1/4” -20 x 3” screw to attach the damper handle

to the damper stub on the left side.

Attach the Primary Air Thermostat Handle

The primary air thermostat handle is the smaller of the

two black handles. Secure the handle to the stub on

the right side of the stove with an 8-32 x 2” slot head

machine screw. (Fig. 22)

Hole for Wire

Tie to Secure

Cable

Rheostat

Knob

Assemble the Removable Insert Handle

he ceramic removable insert handle opens and closes

the front doors. Remove after each use, and store it in

the handle holder behind the right front leg. Assemble

the handle by passing the 86 mm (3³⁄₈") screw through

the ceramic shaft and into the bright metal nub. (Fig. 23)

Tighten carefully until snug.

Rheostat

Holder

Rheostat

Screws

Snapstat

ST848

Fig. 24 Fan installation (Kit # 2767).

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Operation

The Deﬁant Controls

Air Control Positions

Two controls regulate the performance of the Deﬁant: a

primary air control supplies oxygen for the ﬁre, and a

damper directs air ﬂow within the stove to activate and

deactivate the catalytic combustor. (Fig. 25)

D E F I A N T

� � � � � � �

Low Heat

Range

Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct

directions for using the controls. The words ‘Left’ and

‘right’ in these directions are facing the stove.

Griddle Handle

Damper

Handle

Door Handle

D E F I A N T

� � � � � � �

Medium Heat

Range

Air

Control

Lever

Andiron

Door Handle

Holder

D E F I A N T

� � � � � � �

High Heat

Range

(Behind

Leg)

ST542

Ash Door Handle

ST541

Fig. 26 The handle also may be positioned anywhere be-

tween the two extremes for different heat levels.

Fig. 25 The Deﬁant’s controls are conveniently located and

easy to operate.

system where it can be further burned, before passing

up the chimney. (Fig. 27)

A Single Air Control Regulates

Heat Output and Burn Time

The damper should always be either fully open or

fully closed. There are no intermediate positions.

When closing the damper, be sure to pull ﬁrmly

enough to snap the handle into the locked posi-

tion.

The primary air control lever, on the right side of the

stove, controls the amount of incoming air for starting,

maintaining, and reviving a ﬁre.

More air entering the stove makes the ﬁre burn hotter

and faster, while less air prolongs the burn at a lower

heat output level. (Fig. 26)

Damper Positions

D E F I A N T

� � � � � � �

For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output

(but the shortest burn time), move the lever toward the

front of the stove. For a ﬁre that will last longer with

less heat, move the lever toward the rear of the stove.

Closed

(Efﬁcient Mode)

Open

(Updraft Mode)

A Damper Directs Air Flow

Within the Stove

ST543

Fig. 27 The Deﬁant’s damper operating positions.

The damper handle on the left side of the stove oper-

ates the damper to direct air ﬂow within the stove.

Two Ways to Add Fuel

The damper is open when the handle points to the

rear, enabling smoke to pass directly into the chimney.

The damper must be open when starting or reviving a

ﬁre, and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.

The Deﬁant’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading of

logs, and is the easiest way to add fuel. (Fig. 28)

The damper is closed when the handle points forward.

Smoke travels through the non-catalytic combustion

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Andirons Help Protect the Glass

Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the

glass panels. The andirons are essential to maintain

clear ﬁre viewing, and should be left permanently in

place. Since the andirons may slightly hinder refueling

through the front doors, most stove owners will prefer

the convenience of top loading through the griddle. Do

not place fuel between the andirons and the doors.

Defiant

ST521

Burn Only High-Quality Wood

Fig. 28 Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular

The Deﬁant is designed to burn natural wood only; do

not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.

use. Front loading is useful for kindling a ﬁre.

In addition, however, the front doors open as well for

adding an occasional log to a ﬁre. The Deﬁant NC is

not approved for operation in Europe with the front

doors open.

You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that

has been adequately air-dried. The wood should be

559-610 mm (22-24”) in length. Avoid burning “green”

wood that has not been properly seasoned. Do not

burn construction materials; they often contain

chemicals and metals that can damage the inside

surfaces of the stove and pollute the air. Do not burn

ocean driftwood; when it burns, the salt it contains will

attack the cast iron.

To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door

latch stub and turn it to the left and up. (Fig. 29)

To close them, always close the left door ﬁrst. Turn the

handle in the right door to the left and up (to the open

position) and close it. Finally, push on the door as you

turn the handle to the right and down. The doors will

draw in slightly, and the handle should offer some resis-

tance as you turn it to the closed position.

The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,

ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-

dried outside under cover for at least one year.

To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking

the glass or slamming the doors.

If hardwood is not available, you can burn softwoods

that include tamarack, yellow pine, white pine, East-

ern red cedar, ﬁr, and redwood. These should also be

properly dried.

When you are not using the door handle, store it in the

holder behind the right front leg of the stove. Be careful

to not drop the handle, since it is breakable.

Store wood under cover to keep it dry. The longer it is

stored, the better heating and ﬁre-viewing performance

you will enjoy. Even for short-term storage, be sure to

keep wood a safe distance from the heater and keep

it out of the areas around the heater used for refueling

and ash removal.

Clockwise to

Open

Counter-

clockwise

to Close

A Surface Thermometer is a Valuable

Guide to Operation

An optional surface thermometer tells you when to ad-

just the air control, and when to refuel. (Fig. 30)

ST544

Fig. 29 To open the front doors, turn the handle clockwise.

This stove is designed to operate efﬁciently with

the ﬁre doors (front doors and griddle) closed. The

ﬁrebox and ash doors should be kept closed at all

times except when refueling or removing ashes.

ST523

Fig. 30 Take temperature readings with a thermometer lo-

cated in the middle of the griddle.

Infra-Red Reﬂective Glass Panels

for Clear Fire Viewing

For example, when the thermometer registers at least

230° C (450° F) after start-up you know the stove is

hot enough and it may be time to close the damper.

Note that the stove will warm up much sooner than the

chimney, though; a warm chimney is the key to easy, ef-

fective stove operation. Please review the draft man-

The outer surfaces of the ceramic glass panels have

an infrared-reﬂective coating which keeps the inner

surfaces warm. This design, along with a pre-heated

‘airwash,’ makes clear ﬁre viewing possible at most ﬁr-

ing levels.

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agement information on Page 26 to see how the size,

type, and location of your chimney will affect your stove

operation. When thermometer readings drop below

175° C (350° F) it is time to adjust the air control for a

higher burn rate or to reload the stove. A temperature

reading over 385° C (750° F) is a sign to cut back on

the air supply to slow the burn rate.

settings. You will quickly ﬁnd that a speciﬁc setting will

give you a ﬁxed amount of heat. It may take a week or

two to determine the amount of heat and the length of

burn you should expect from various settings.

Most installations do not require a large amount of

combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.

Do not for any reason attempt to increase the ﬁring

of your heater by altering the air control adjustment

range outlined in these directions.

Use the following temperature ranges as a guide:

• Readings in the 175°-260° C (350°-500° F) range

indicate low to medium heat output.

Use the following air control settings as a starting point

to help determine the best settings for your installation.

Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the

lever may be moved from right to left.

• 260°-315° C (500°-600° F) readings indicate me-

dium heat output.

• Readings of 315-385° C (600°-750° F) indicate high

heat output. Operating your Deﬁant continuously at

griddle temperatures of 385° C (750° F) or higher

may damage the cast iron or enamel ﬁnish.

Deﬁant Control Settings

(Refer to Figure 27, Page 19)

Use the Air Control Settings

that Work Best for You

Burn Rate

Primary Air Control

From far right to 1/3 the distance

to left

Low

No single air control setting will ﬁt every situation. Each

installation will differ depending on the quality of the

fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish

the ﬁre to burn; outdoor air temperature and pressure

also affect draft.

Medium

High

From 1/3 to 2/3 the distance

to left

From 2/3 the distance

to left, to far left

DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH

DOOR OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOR

OPEN CAN CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITION

TO OCCUR. OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGER-

OUS AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE,

INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.

The control setting also depends on your particular

installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the

stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such

things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,

local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.

See Page 27 for details on how the installation affects

performance.

Conditioning Your Stove

Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in

the Deﬁant, and could even damage the stove. On the

other hand, too little draft can cause backpufﬁng into

the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney.

Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with

a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock

of rapid and extreme temperature change.

The cast plates expand and contract with changes in

temperature. When you ﬁrst begin using your Deﬁant,

minimize thermal stress by letting the plates adjust

gradually during three or four initial break-in ﬁres follow-

ing Steps 1-3 below.

How do you know if your draft is excessively high or

low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-

lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. Signs of weak

draft are smoke leaking into the room through the stove

or chimney connector joints or low heat output.

Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire

In some newer homes that are well-insulated and

weather-tight, poor draft may result from an insufﬁcient

air supply in the house. In such instances, an open

window near the stove on the windward side of the

house can provide the combustion air supply needed.

Burn only solid wood in the Deﬁant, and burn it directly

on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not burn coal

or other fuels.

The bypass damper must be open when starting a

ﬁre or when refueling.

Refer to Section 2 of Document J which requires an

outside air vent for appliances with power outputs

above 5 kW. Always refer to national and local codes to

determine your speciﬁc requirements.

Do not use chemicals or ﬂuids to start the ﬁre. Do

not burn garbage. Never use ﬂammable ﬂuids such

as gasoline, gasoline type lantern fuel, kerosene,

charcoal lighter ﬂuid, naptha, engine oil or similar

liquids to start or “freshen up” a ﬁre in this heater.

Keep all such liquids well away from the heater

while it is in use.

The Deﬁant NC is equipped to deliver outside air for

combustion and outside air kit #3265 is available.

When ﬁrst using the stove, keep track of the air control

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1. Open the stove bypass damper, and open the prima-

ry air control fully.

2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the

stove. Place six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a

ﬁnger-width size on the paper. On the kindling, lay two

or three larger sticks of split dry wood approximately

25-51 mm (1-2”) in diameter. (Fig. 31)

ST264

Fig. 32 Add larger pieces of wood as the ﬁre begins to burn

well.

6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.

NOTE: Stove installations vary widely, and the operat-

ing guidance given here is only a starting point . The

draft management information on Page 27 will explain

in detail how the features of your installation may help

or hinder good draft, and how you may need to vary

your ﬁring technique if your installation doesn’t encour-

age a good draft.

ST263

Fig. 31 Start the ﬁre with newspaper and dry kindling.

3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradu-

ally build up the ﬁre by adding a few 76-127 mm (3-5”)

diameter pieces of split ﬁrewood. If this is one of the

ﬁrst few “break-in” ﬁres, let the ﬁre burn brightly,

and then let it die out.

During the break-in ﬁres, do not let the stove get hot-

ter than 260° C (500° F) as measured on an optional

stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever as

necessary to control the ﬁre.

Some odor from the stove’s hot metal and the paint is

normal for the ﬁrst few ﬁres.

NOTE: Some chimneys must be “primed,” or warmed

up, before they will draw sufﬁciently to start a ﬁre. To

correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces of news-

paper, place them on top of the kindling and toward

the back of the stove, light them, and close the doors.

This will encourage the smoke to rise rapidly, making it

easier to establish a good draft.

ST264a

Fig. 33 Add full size logs after the ember bed is 3” (75mm)

deep.

Refuel While the Embers Are Still Hot

Once the draft is established, open the front door and

light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light

the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing,

and repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the

initial attempt is unsuccessful.

When reloading, best results will be achieved if you ﬁrst

de-ash the stove by stirring the fuel bed to allow ash to

fall through the grate into the ash pan.

Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or

pound or compress the charcoal bed.

4. If your Deﬁant has been broken-in previously us-

ing Steps 1-3, continue to build the ﬁre gradually. Add

larger wood with a diameter of 76-102 mm (3-4”). Con-

tinue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-burning

ﬁre until there is a glowing ember bed 51-76 mm (2-3”)

deep. (Fig. 32) A good ember bed is necessary for

proper functioning of the non-catalytic system and may

take an hour or more to establish.

It is important that air can circulate through the charcoal

bed during the burn. Larger pieces of charcoal allow

more air to circulate under the wood, resulting in the

ﬁre reviving more quickly.

For best results when refueling, wear long-cuffed stove

gloves to protect your hands and forearms, add fuel

while the stove still has plenty of glowing embers to

re-kindle the ﬁre, and include some smaller pieces of

wood in the new fuel load to help the stove regain its

5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature

reaches 230° C (450° F).

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operating temperature quickly. Use this sequence as a

guide to successful refueling:

NOTE: Door handles can be hot. A glove has been

included with your stove. We recommend using this

glove whenever operating door or damper controls and

especially when operating the top griddle.

1. Open the damper.

Open

2. De-ash the stove as described above. Open the

ashdoor and check the level of ash in the ash pan.

Empty the pan if necessary and replace it in the

stove. Close the ash door.

ST545

3. Open the griddle, load the wood (smaller pieces

ﬁrst), and close the griddle.

Fig. 34 Turn the ashdoor handle clockwise to open and coun-

terclockwise to close.

• If the stove is in operation, close the ash door while dis-

posing of the ash. You may need to lift the latch end of

the door slightly to align the latch with the mating part

on the stove bottom.

4. Close the damper.

5. When the surface temperature reaches 230° C

(450° F), adjust the air control for the amount of heat

you desire.

NOTE: If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick

(51-76 mm/2-3”) and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is

possible to add fresh fuel (smaller pieces ﬁrst), close

the door and damper, and reset the primary air control

for the desired heat output within ﬁve minutes.

• Properly dispose of the ash in a metal container with a

tight-ﬁtting lid. Store the container outdoors away from

all combustible material.

• Return the ash pan to its original position in the stove,

and close and latch the ash door. (Fig. 35)

• Do not operate the stove with the ash door open. This

will result in over-ﬁring, and could cause damage to the

stove, void the warranty, or even lead to a house ﬁre.

Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to three

days. The frequency will vary depending on how you oper-

ate your Deﬁant: ash will accumulate faster at higher heat

outputs.

CAUTION: The Deﬁant will be hot while in opera-

tion. Keep children, clothing and furniture away.

Contact may cause skin burns.

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overﬁring may

cause a house ﬁre, or can result in permanent damage

to the stove. If any part of the Deﬁant glows, you are

overﬁring.

Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal

container with a tight-ﬁtting lid. Place the closed container

of ash on a noncombustible ﬂoor or on the ground, well

away from all combustible materials, pending ﬁnal dispos-

al. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise

locally dispersed, it should be kept in the closed container

until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

Ash Disposal

Routine ash removal is important for ease of maintenance,

and is important for the stove’s durability. Remove ash be-

fore it reaches the top of the ash pan. Check the level at

least once a day. Every few days, clear any ash from the

outer edges of the ﬁrebox. Most of the ash will fall through

the grate. Slice or stir the ash with a shovel or poker so

that it falls through the grate slots.

You can use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.

CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum

cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove and

dispose of the ash properly.

IMPORTANT: Check the level of ash in the ash pan

before reloading the stove. If the ash level is close to

the top edge of the pan, empty the pan according to this

procedure:

• Open the damper.

•

Open the griddle or front doors, and use a shovel or

poker to stir excess ash through the ash slots in the

grate down into the ash pan.

Close the griddle or doors, and unlatch the ash door.

(Fig. 34) It will pivot, swinging the ash pan out of the

stove.

Slide the cover onto the pan, making sure it is securely

closed. (Fig. 35)

ST566

•

Remove the ash pan, making sure to keep it level.

To keep the cover from sliding off and to keep ash from

falling on the ﬂoor, do not tilt the ash pan forward.

Fig. 35 Be sure the cover is securely attached before remov-

ing the ash pan.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Draft Management

A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,

the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of

the system will affect how well the stove works. When

there is a good match between all the parts, the system

works well.

into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat

to the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to

heat it up and keep it warm.

Chimney Height

The common wisdom tells us that a taller ﬂue draws

better than a short one. This isn’t necessarily so. If a

chimney is tall enough to meet the safety requirements

of the 2/3/10 foot rule, then adding more height isn’t the

right answer to a draft problem. In fact it could make the

problem worse by adding more mass to the chimney

system, which must be warmed up, a distance from the

heat source (the stove). Don’t make a chimney taller

unless you must in order to meet the safety rules, or un-

less there’s some nearby feature causing a downdraft.

Even then, there are downdraft-preventing chimney

caps available, which are probably the smarter choice.

Wood stove or insert operation depends on natural

(unforced) draft. Natural draft occurs when the exhaust

is hotter (and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at

the top of the chimney. The bigger the temperature

difference, the stronger the draft. As the hot gases rise

through the chimney they provide suction or ‘draw’ that

pulls air into the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy ﬁre

with the stove’s air inlets fully open indicates a weak

draft. A brisk ﬁre, supported only by air entering the

stove through the normal inlets, indicates a good draft.

The stove’s air inlets are passive; they regulate how

much air can enter the stove, but they don’t move air

into it.

Flue Sizing

Depending on the features of your installation - steel or

masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched

to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may

warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and

operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts

the amount of air getting into the ﬁrebox, the chimney

must keep the stove’s exhaust warm all the way to the

outdoors in order for the stove to work well. Some chim-

neys do this better than others. Here’s a list of features

and their effects.

The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove

should match the size of the stove’s ﬂue outlet. When

a chimney serves an airtight stove, more is not better;

in fact, it can be a disadvantage. Hot gases lose heat

faster as they travel slower through a chimney; if we

vent a stove with a 152mm (6”) ﬂue collar [181 sq cm

(28 sq in area) into a 254 x 254 mm (10 x 10”) ﬂue, the

gases slow to one third their original speed. This allows

the gases to cool more rapids, which weakens draft

strength. If an oversized ﬂue is also outside the house,

the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air

and the ﬂue usually stays cool.

Masonry Chimney

Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it can

perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove. Mason-

ry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot of heat.

It can cool the chimney gases enough to diminish draft.

The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.

It’s often very difﬁcult to warm up an outdoor masonry

chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm

enough to maintain an adequate draft.

It is common for a masonry ﬂue, especially one serving

a ﬁreplace, to be oversized for the stove. It can take

quite a while to warm up such a ﬂue, and the results

can be disappointing. The best solution to an oversized

ﬂue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same diam-

eter as the stove or insert’s ﬂue outlet; the liner keeps

the exhaust warm, and the result is a stronger draft. An

uninsulated liner is a second choice - the liner keeps

the exhaust restricted to its original size, but the hot

gases still must warm up the air around the liner. This

makes the warm-up process take longer.

Steel Chimney

Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of

insulation around the inner ﬂue. This insulation keeps

the chimney warm. The insulation is less dense than

masonry, so a steel chimney warms up more quickly

than a masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good

looks of masonry, but it performs much better.

Pipe & Chimney Layout

Every turn the exhaust must take as it travels to the

chimney top will slow it down. The ideal pipe and chim-

ney layout is to vent vertically into a completely straight

and vertical chimney. If you are starting from scratch,

use this layout if possible. If the stovepipe must elbow

to enter a chimney, locate the thimble about midway

between the stove top and the ceiling. This achieves

several goals: it allows the gases to speed up before

Indoor/Outdoor Location

Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s

best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house

as insulation for the ﬂue and allows some heat release

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

propane torch) from the stove, that is a sign that the stove

is overﬁring.

they must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for heat

transfer, and it gives you long-term ﬂexibility for install-

ing a different stove without relocating the thimble.

There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall

stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer

runs can cool the exhaust enough to cause draft and

creosote problems. With prefabricated chimney, bring it

down to six to eight feet from the stove. With a masonry

chimney, arrange the pipe so that it turns into the chim-

ney within eight feet of the stove.

Back-pufﬁng

Back-pufﬁng results when the ﬁre produces volatile gases

faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of the ﬁrebox.

The gases back up in the ﬁrebox until they are concen-

trated enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove back-

puffs, the stove needs to cool down. You should open the

damper to let the smoke rise to the ﬂue more quickly, allow

more air into the ﬁrebox, avoid big loads of ﬁrewood and

check that the wood moisture is not too low.

Single Venting

Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own ﬂue. If an airtight

stove is vented to a ﬂue that also serves an open ﬁre-

place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft

to pull air in through those channels and performance of

the stove suffers. Imagine a vacuum cleaner with a hole in

the hose to understand the effect here. In some cases the

other appliance can even cause a negative draft through

the stove, and result in a dangerous draft reversal.

Draft Testing

An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the

stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airﬂow stabi-

lize, then see whether you can vary the strength of the ﬁre

by swinging the air control open and closed. Results are

not always instant; you may need to wait a few minutes for

a change in the air control setting to have an effect on the

ﬁre. If there’s no change, then the draft isn’t strong enough

yet to let you close the damper, and you’ll need to open it

for awhile longer and manage the ﬁre with the air inlet until

the draft strengthens. If you keep track of your burning

habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s opera-

tion, you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe

system.

Creosote

Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an

organic tar that can condense in the ﬂue if it is present in

the exhaust, slow-moving, and cools to less than 290°F

(130°C). Condensed creosote is volatile, and can gener-

ate chimney ﬁres if it gets hot enough. All the features that

affect chimney draft also affect creosote condensation

- so use whatever combination of installation features and

operational steps that will encourage good draft and mini-

mize creosote production.

Negative Pressure

Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;

a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.

Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to

prevent the ready ﬂow of air to the stove, or by competition

between the stove and other equipment that sends indoor

air outside - especially power-driven equipment like range

hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney draws well with

all other equipment turned off (or sealed, in the case of

ﬁreplaces and/or other stoves), then you simply need to

be careful with timing the use of the other air consuming

equipment. If you need to crack a nearby window or door

to enable the chimney to ﬂow well, it may be a good idea

to install an outside-air intake to bring combustion air di-

rectly to the stove. An outside air kit is available to connect

the stove directly to a source of outdoor combustion air.

Because letting the exhaust cool off and slow down is one

of the keys to creosote accumulation, it makes sense to

line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for safety

reasons as well as performance. Consult a qualiﬁed

installer and check local and national codes for recom-

mended chimney sizing.

Fuel

Even the best stove installation will not perform well with

poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-dried 12-

18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as hardwood.

‘Green’ wood has a lot of moisture in it; it will burn, but

some of the heat potential is used to boil the extra mois-

ture from the wood. This reduces the amount of heat that

reaches your home and can contribute to a creosote prob-

lem. There are moisture meters available for ﬁrewood; you

can also judge your wood by its appearance and weight. If

you get it green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight;

it can lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look

at the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.

The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier it is.

In many cases, local or national codes require the installa-

tion of permanently open air vents, particularly with larger

appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these codes to

determine speciﬁc requirements for your installation.

Conclusion

Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the

stove and chimney system are in place, you can only

vary your technique, mostly your timing, to achieve good

results. If you keep track of your burning habits and relate

them to their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be

rewarded with good performance and year of reliable heat-

ing.

Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But

with modern stoves, wood can be too dry and too vola-

tile. Smoke and combustible gases can ‘gas out’ from the

wood quickly and densely enough to overload the combus-

tion system. If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise (like a

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Maintenance

Below you will ﬁnd important information on general

care, inspection and maintenance of your Vermont

Castings stove. Should it become necessary, use only

replacement parts recommended by your authorized

ings. Do not use substitutes. Be sure to specify left or

right glass; the panels are not interchangeable, due to a

heat-reﬂective coating on the side toward the room.

Removing the Glass

dealer.

1. Remove the right and left door assemblies by rais-

ing the door until the lower hinge pin clears its hole;

then, angle the door bottom slightly outward and pull

down to release the upper hinge pin. Place the doors

face down on a padded work surface. Be especially

careful with enamelled doors.

Keep Your Stove Looking New

and Working Its Best

Let the ﬁre in the stove go out and allow the stove to

cool completely before beginning any maintenance

procedure.

2. Remove the screws that hold the glass retainer clips

in place, and remove the clips.

Care of the Cast Iron Surface

3. Carefully lift the broken glass panel from the door.

An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the

painted cast iron of your Deﬁant looking new.

Installing the Glass

The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,

mask the areas, such as enamelled parts, glass, or

handles, around the spot to be painted. Clean the spot

with a wire brush. Remove the griddle and set it aside.

It is normal for the griddle to darken after use. You can

clean it with a ﬁne-bristle wire brush, or steel wool.

Check the gasket around the window; it should be soft

and resilient so that the glass will seal properly against

the door. Replace the gasket if it has hardened or if it is

compressed.

1. Center the glass on the gasket. Be sure to place the

glass so that the infrared reﬂective coating is on the

exterior side, facing toward the room.

Then, touch up the stove with Vermont Castings’ high

temperature stove paint. Apply the paint sparingly; two

light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.

2. Secure the glass on both doors with the retainer

clips. Tighten all screws. (Fig. 36)

3. Replace the doors on the stove.

4. Open and close the doors to check that they ﬁt and

work properly. Adjust as necessary.

Care of the Porcelain Enamel Surface

Use a dry or slightly damp rag or soft brush to remove

spills or stains. For difﬁcult jobs that require a cleaning

agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish

recommended for use on enamel surfaces.

Door Gasket

Right Door

(Back Side)

Cleaning the Glass

Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off

during hot ﬁres.

However, the ash residue that accumulates on the

glass surface should be removed regularly to prevent

etching. To clean the glass, follow this procedure:

Left Door

• Be sure the glass is completely cool.

• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made espe-

cially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive cleaners.

Use cleaning agents sparingly and be sure to keep

them off the outer surfaces of the stove.

Glass Gasket

Glass Panel

Retainer Clip

• Rinse the glass thoroughly.

• Dry the glass completely.

Retainer Clip

ST547

Replace Broken Glass Immediately

Do not operate your stove if the glass in the doors is

damaged.

Fig. 36 An exploded view of the glass assembly.

If you need to replace the glass, use only the high

temperature ceramic glass supplied by Vermont Cast-

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Adjust the Damper as Needed

Pawl

The tension on the Deﬁant’s damper is adjustable to

compensate for compression of the gasket that seals

the damper to the upper ﬁreback. To adjust the damper:

Small Lock-

ing Nut

Striker Screw

1. Remove the griddle. Loosen the lock nut at the cen-

ter of the damper. (Fig. 37)

2. Turn the pressure screw approximately one half turn

clockwise with an Allen wrench provided with your

stove.

Large

Locking

Nut

3. Tighten the lock nut. Prevent the pressure screw

from turning as you tighten the nut. Re-test the

damper.

Set Screw

Pressure Ad-

justing Screw

Handle Stub

Lock Nut

Damper

ST531

Allen

Fig. 38 Turn the door latch striker screw in or out to tighten or

Wrench

loosen the screw.

Replace the Stove Gaskets as Needed

Your Deﬁant uses ﬁberglass rope gaskets to make

a tight seal between some parts. With use, particu-

larly on moving parts, gaskets can become brittle and

compressed and can begin to lose their effectiveness.

These will need periodic replacement.

ST554

Fig. 37 Adjust the damper with the Allen wrench.

Tighten the Damper Handle as Needed

The sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below, along

with their applications.

A handle on the left side of the stove controls the

damper. The handle attaches to the damper rod with a

set screw. Periodically check the set screw and tighten

as necessary.

Gasket Diameter... ...And the Parts it Seals

5/16”

The griddle to the stove top

(wire reinforced gasket)

How to Adjust the Door Latches

5/16”

The damper to the upper ﬁreback; the

front doors to the stove front; and the

doors to each other.

The Deﬁant’s doors should close securely to prevent

accidental opening and to keep air from leaking into the

stove. On properly adjusted doors, the handles should

resist slightly as they are turned to the closed position

and the doors themselves should be drawn slightly

toward the stove.

3/8”

The ash door to the front of the bottom

panel

3/16”

The outer glass panes to the door

If you need to change a gasket, ﬁrst obtain an appropri-

ate replacement from your Vermont Castings, Autho-

rized Dealer.

Over time, the gasket around the doors will compress

and the latches may need adjustment.

To adjust the latches, loosen the small lock nut, rotate

the striker screw a half-turn, and re-tighten the small

lock nut. (Fig. 40) Your stove kit includes an Allen

wrench for latch adjustments. Hold the striker screw to

keep it from turning as you tighten the lock nut. Make

repeated small adjustments until the setting is right.

Wait until the ﬁre is out and the stove has cooled. Be

sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working

with dusty materials: wear safety goggles and a dust

mask.

The procedure for replacing gaskets is the same,

regardless of the gasket location. Follow these eight

steps:

1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an end and

pulling ﬁrmly. (Fig. 39)

2. Use a wire brush or the tip of a screwdriver to clean

the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket.

Remove stubborn deposits of cement with a cold chisel

if necessary. (Fig. 39)

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

All Gasketed Construction Gaskets

Other gaskets form seals between all other non-moving

parts, but these are not subject to the same wear and

deterioration as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely

that you will ever need to replace these gaskets unless

the involved parts are disassembled and then put back

together. If this is the case, the job should be done only

by a qualiﬁed service technician.

ST560

5/16” diameter gasket seals the following parts:

• The lower ﬁreback to the back panel

• The left and right air plates (inner sides)

• All connections between the stove plates.

Fig. 39 Remove gasket then clean channel with wire brush.

3. Determine the correct length of the appropriate-sized

gasket by laying it out in the channel. Allow an extra

25-51 mm (1-2”), and mark the spot to be cut.

The Chimney System

4. Remove the gasket from the channel, place it on a

wood cutting surface, and cut it at the marked spot with

a utility knife.

Creosote

Your Deﬁant is designed to reduce creosote build-up

signiﬁcantly. However, regular chimney inspection and

maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good

stove performance, and to protect your chimney and

chimney connector, inspect your chimney and chimney

connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if

necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector

system clean can result in a serious chimney ﬁre.

Twist the ends slightly to keep the gasket from unravel-

ing.

5. Lay an unbroken 3 mm (1/8”) bead of gasket cement

in the newly-cleaned channel. (Fig. 40)

6. Starting at one end, press the gasket into the chan-

nel. (Fig. 48) Ensure a good joint where the gasket

meets before trimming any excess. Do not overlap the

gasket ends or leave ends with ragged edges.

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar, organic

vapors and moisture that combine to form creosote. The

creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney

ﬂue of a slow-burning ﬁre. As a result, creosote residue

accumulates on the ﬂue lining. When ignited, this creo-

sote makes an extremely hot ﬁre within the ﬂue system

that can damage the chimney and overheat adjacent

combustible material. If a signiﬁcant layer of creosote

has accumulated —1/8” (3 mm) or more — it should be

removed to reduce the risk of a chimney ﬁre.

ve Gasket

Cement

Sto

You can never be too safe. Contact your local ﬁre

authority for information on what to do in the event of

a chimney ﬁre, and have a clearly understood plan on

how to handle one.

ST561

Fig. 40 Lay a bead of gasket cement then press gasket in

place.

If you do experience a chimney ﬁre, act promptly to:

• Close the damper and air control lever.

7. Press the gasketed part ﬁrmly against its normal

mating surface to seat the gasket evenly in its channel.

Close and latch the door to do this, or tap other parts

with the rubber mallet (or hammer/block of wood).

• Get everyone out of the house.

• Call the Fire Department.

Inspect the system every two weeks during the heat-

ing season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.

To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely.

Then, using a mirror and a strong light, sight up through

the ﬂue collar into the chimney ﬂue. If you cannot in-

spect the ﬂue system in this fashion, the stove must be

disconnected to provide better viewing access.

8. Clean any excess cement from around the chan-

nel, then let the cement that holds the new gasket dry

thoroughly.

9. The stove’s doors may need adjustment after you

have regasketed them. Initially, it may require loosening

the latch to accommodate the new gasket; after a few

weeks, it may need tightening to compensate for com-

pression of the new gasket. The directions for adjusting

the latches are on Page 30.

Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and

shape as the ﬂue liner. Flexible ﬁberglass rods are used

to run the brush up and down the liner, causing any

deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they

can be removed through the clean-out door.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sec-

tions, taking them outside, and removing any deposits

with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connector sections

after cleaning, being sure to secure the joints between

individual sections with sheet metal screws.

helpful) and vacuum away ash using a ﬂexible vacu-

um hose inserted into each passage. Care should be

taken not to damage the white ﬁbrous material in this

rear chamber. (Fig. 41)

If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself,

contact your local Vermont Castings dealer or a profes-

sional chimney sweep.

Maintenance Schedule

The stove and chimney system should be inspected

and maintained by a qualiﬁed engineer and include the

following:

The Stove

DAILY:

• Clear any ash build-up from around the air holes and

combustion ﬂow path in the lower ﬁreback.

Inspect and

Vacuum Both

Rear Corners

• Ashes should be removed before they reach the top

of the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once a

day.

Ash Build-up

ST856

• Keep the area around the stove clear of any com-

bustible materials such as wood, furniture or cloth-

Fig. 41 Inspect and clean out ash accumulation on either side

of the non-catalytic combustion system.

ing.

TWO MONTHS:

The Chimney Connector

• Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.

Gasketing becomes compressed after a period of

time. Adjust handle tightness if necessary.

TWO WEEKS:

• Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if

necessary.

• Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if

necessary.

TWO MONTHS:

• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay

particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney

connector, and the elbows. Clean the system if nec-

essary.

ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:

• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.

• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with a

moisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to

keep the interior of the stove dry.

ANNUAL SPRING CLEANING:

• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it

outdoors for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak

sections of connector.

• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration. Re-

pairs to a masonry chimney should be made by a

professional mason. Replace damaged sections of

prefabricated chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer

or a chimney sweep can help determine when re-

placement is necessary.

• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or

pipe heat shields if your stove is equipped with them.

Clean surfaces are better heat reﬂectors than dirty

surfaces.

• Touch up the black paint.

• Inspect for and remove ash build-up behind the com-

bustion package. This should be done in conjunction

with annual cleaning of the chimney connector since

this inspection is most conveniently done through the

ﬂue collar opening. Inspect the passages to either

side of the combustion package (a mirror will be

• Thoroughly clean the chimney.

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, speciﬁcations, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,

without notice.

Deﬁant Woodburning Stove

Model 1610CE

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Deﬁant Woodburning Stove Model 1610CE (continued)

Item Description

Part Number

30002846

30002847

30002848

30002480

1203668

30002833

30002442

30002441

30002243

30002864

30002840

30002839

30002399

30002401

30002822

1600657

1600070

1200907

1203588

1300643

30002821

30002816

1601488

Item Description

52. Door Latch Assy

53. Ashdoor

Part Number

5004025

30002810

1600663

30002826

30001749

1300642

30001908

30002849

30002841

30002842

30002845

1600660

30002814

See Chart Pg. 37

30001910

See Chart Pg. 37

1300645

See Chart Pg. 37

30001715

30001716

30002717

See Chart Pg. 37

1203589

1. Side Insulation

2. Right Side Brick

3. Left Side Refractory

4. Brick Support Bracket

5. Griddle Gasket

54. Ashdoor Handle (Wood)

55. Ashdoor Hinge Rod

56. Cotter Pin, Ashdoor

57. Ashdoor Bottom Hinge Support

58. Ashpan Bracket

59. Primary Air Flap

60. Primary Air Shaft

61. Air Linkage

62. Rear Side Bracket

63. Thermostat Handle

64. Airwash Manifold

65. Front

6. Back

7. Left Heat Deﬂector

8. Right Heat Deﬂector

9. Shoe Refractory

10. Shoe Gasket

11. Fireback

12. Outer Back

13. Left Griddle Quadrant

14. Right Griddle Quadrant

15. Griddle

16. Griddle Handle

17. Griddle Handle Spacer

18. Griddle Handle Bolt

19. Damper Gasket

20. Damper Ramp

21. Damper Housing

22. Damper¹

66. Flue Collar Gasket

67. Left Door

68. Door Hinge Strip

69. Top

70. Glass Clip

71. Glass Clip (Right Door Only)

72. Front Door Handle & Shaft

73. Right Door

23. Damper Tab¹

24. Damper Rod¹

74. Door Gasket

1600065

75. Glass Gasket

1203556

25. Griddle Handle Bushing

26. Ash Door Heat Shield

27. Rheostat Bracket

28. Fountain Assembly

29. Damper Handle Screw

30. Damper Handle

31. Damper Handle Base Assy

32. Left Side

33. Left Air Manifold

34. Right Air Manifold

35. Right Side

36. Thermostat Handle Base Assy

37. Washer Damper Rod

38. Grate

1201895

1401911

30002863

30002100

1201310

76. Left Door Glass¹

77. Right Door Glass¹

78. Lower Door Hinge Pin

79. Spacer (for Damper rod)

80. Upper Door Hinge Pin

81. Handle Base Stub²

82. Ceramic Handle²

83. Handle Bolt²

84. Thermostat Handle Bolt

85. Ash Pan Assy

87. Flue Collar

88. Leg

91. Hex Head Jam Nut

92. Bottom Heat Shield

1600064

1600062

30002727

1201779

30002727

30002714

20006381

1201294

1600644

30002720

See Chart Pg. 37

30002818

30002817

See Chart Pg. 37

30002716

1202560

30002820

30002838

30002836

30002844

30002829

See Chart Pg. 37

30002815

1201846

1201243

30001690

See Chart Pg. 37

1203290

30002843

39. Inner Bottom

40. Top Ashdoor Hinge

41. Door Handle Bracket

42. Bottom

43. Ashlip

44. Fireback Retainer

45. Friction Spring

46. Washer Friction Spring/Therm Handle Linkage

1202471

47. Air Plate

NOTES:

In this diagram and throughout this manual, ‘left’ and ‘right’ mean as you

face the stove.

When ordering parts, be sure to mention the stove’s model number.

When ordering external parts, be sure to specify color.

1. Not interchangeable, due to a heat-reﬂective coating on the room

side of the glass.

2. Included in #0004345 Black Ceramic Handle Assy.

The hardware in the Deﬁant is in standard sizes; most bolts are 1/4”

diameter by 20 threads per inch. Most hardware stores can supply re-

placement hardware if you specify bolt diameter, number of threads per

inch and length. Fasteners inside the ﬁrebox should be replaced with

stainless steel for ease of future disassembly.

30002819

30002827

1201781

1201745

1600622

48. Andiron

49. Control Spacer

50. Leg Leveller

51. Ashdoor Handle Shaft

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Defiant 1610CE Non-Catalytic Woodburning Stove

Deﬁant Woodburning Stove Model 1610CE (continued)

Shell Enamel Parts - Deﬁant Model 1610CE

Part Name

Classic

Biscuit

Bordeaux

Chestnut

Brown

Ebony

Midnight

Blue

Vermont

Green

Top

30002834

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Right Side

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LIMITED LIFETIME Warranty

For Vermont Castings Deﬁant, Non-Catalytic Wood Stove

Limited Lifetime Warranty

CFM Corporation warrants that all refractory brick and

5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered

by this warranty but is subject to a claim against the

common carrier. Contact Vermont Castings Authorized

Dealer from whom you purchased your stove or CFM

Corporation if the purchase was direct. (Do not oper-

ate the stove as this may negate the ability to process

the claim with the carrier).

material used in this product will be warranted against

deterioration not resulting from physical damage or

overloading of the woodstove for the lifetime of this

product. This coverage includes the components of

the EverBurn System: “shoe, fountain, and ﬁreback.

Coverage is provided only to the original purchaser.

6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not

conform to local building and ﬁre codes or, in their ab-

sence, to the recommendations in our Owners Guide.

7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-

humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porce-

lain enamel ﬁnish. These conditions can cause rusting

of the cast iron beneath the porcelain enamel ﬁnish,

which will cause the porcelain enamel ﬁnish to ﬂake

off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by

a salt air or high-humidity environment.

Limited 3 Year Warranty

All cast iron parts are warranted for a period of three

years against breakage, cracking or burn-through.

Limited 1 Year Warranty

The following part of the woodburning stove are

warranted to be free of defects in material and work-

manship for a period of one year from the date you

receive it: The handles, glass door panels, door

gasketing and porcelain ﬁnish. Any of these items

found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at

no charge, upon the return of the part with postage

prepaid to a Vermont Castings Authorized Dealer.

8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance

or update any unit once manufactured.

IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM Corporation BE LIABLE FOR

INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL

IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED

WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS,

ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN

WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL OTHER

ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.

Any parts repaired or replaced during the limited

warranty period will be warranted under the terms

of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the

remaining term of the original limited warranty or six

(6) months, whichever is longer.

Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of

incidental and consequential damages or limitations on

how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limi-

tations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you

speciﬁc rights and you may have other rights, which vary

from state to state.

Exclusions & Limitations

1. This warranty is non-transferable.

2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove.

Misuse includes overﬁring, which will result if the stove

is used in such a manner as to cause one or more

of the plates to glow red. Overﬁring can be identiﬁed

later by warped plates and areas where the paint pig-

ments has burned off. Overﬁring in enamel stoves is

identiﬁed by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discolor-

ation of the porcelain enamel ﬁnish. CFM Corporation

offers no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces.

Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it

for any damage to the enamel.

How to Obtain Service

If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the

customer should contact a Vermont Castings Authorized

Dealer or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct

with the following information:

1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-

chaser

3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as

described in the Owners Guide, nor does it cover a

stove which has been modiﬁed unless authorized by a

CFM Corporation representative in writing. This war-

ranty does not cover damage to the stove caused by

burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood,

or any fuel not recommended in the Owners Guide.

4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by

someone other than a Vermont Castings Authorized

Dealer.

2. Date of Purchase.

3. Serial number from the label on the back

4. Nature of the defect or damage.

5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., instal-

lation, mode of operation when defect was noted.

A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corpo-

ration reserves the right to withhold ﬁnal approval of a

warranty claim pending a visual inspection of the defect

by authorized representatives.

CFM Corporation

2695 Meadowvale Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 8A3

800-668-5323 • www.cfmcorp.com

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