State Industries Water Heater 185244 004 User Manual

Instruction Manual

RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATERS

POWER VENTED GAS MODELS WITH HOT SURFACE IGNITION

NOT FOR USE IN MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOMES

500 Tennessee Waltz Parkway

Ashland City, TN 37015

www.statewaterheaters.com

GAMA certification applies

to all residential gas water

heaters with capacities of 20

to 100 gallons with input rating

of 75,000 BTU/Hr. or less.

• For Your Safety •

AN ODORANT IS ADDED TO THE GAS USED

BY THIS WATER HEATER.

ALL TECHNICAL AND WARRANTY QUESTIONS: SHOULD BE DIRECTED TO THE LOCAL DEALER FROM WHOM THE WATER HEATER WAS

PURCHASED. IF YOU ARE UNSUCCESSFUL, PLEASE WRITE TO THE COMPANY LISTED ON THE RATING PLATE ON THE WATER HEATER.

KEEP THIS MANUAL IN THE POCKET ON HEATER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

WHENEVER MAINTENANCE ADJUSTMENT OR SERVICE IS REQUIRED.

PRINTED 1208

315466-000

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GENERAL SAFETY

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

SAFE INSTALLATION, USE AND SERVICE............................2

GENERAL SAFETY..................................................................3

TABLE OF CONTENTS............................................................4

INTRODUCTION......................................................................4

Preparing for the New Installation.....................................4

INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS FOR THE

TEMPERATURE REGULATION ............................................22

FOR YOUR INFORMATION...................................................23

Start Up Conditions.........................................................23

Condensate.....................................................................23

Smoke/Odor....................................................................23

Thermal Expansion.........................................................23

Strange Sounds..............................................................23

Operational Conditions ...................................................23

Smelly Water...................................................................23

“Air” in Hot Water Faucets ..............................................23

High Temperature Shut Off System ................................23

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE...................................................24

Venting System Inspection..............................................24

Burner Inspection............................................................24

Burner Cleaning..............................................................24

Housekeeping........................................................... 24-25

Anode Rod Inspection.....................................................25

Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve Operation ...............25

Draining...........................................................................25

Drain Valve Washer Replacement............................ 25-26

Service............................................................................26

LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS....................................................26

REPAIR PARTS......................................................................27

TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................................... 28-30

WARRANTY...........................................................................31

COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS...........................5

TYPICAL INSTALLATION..................................................... 6-7

LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER.................................8

Facts to Consider About Location................................. 8-9

Insulation Blankets............................................................9

Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances

Located in Unconﬁned Spaces.........................................9

Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances

Located in Conﬁned Spaces....................................... 9-10

INSTALLING THE WATER HEATER......................................11

Water Piping ..............................................................11-12

Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve ................................12

Gas Piping ......................................................................13

Sediment Traps...............................................................14

Blower Assembly Installation ..........................................14

Vent Pipe Connection to Blower Assembly.....................15

Venting and Installation............................................. 15-16

LIGHTING & OPERATING LABEL.........................................21

INTRODUCTION

Thank You for purchasing this water heater. Properly installed and

maintained, it should give you years of trouble free service.

2. The installation must conform with these instructions and the local

code authority having jurisdiction. In the absence of local codes,

installations shall comply with the National Fuel Gas Code ANSI

Z223.1/NFPA 54 and the National Electrical Code, NFPA 70.

These publications are available from The National Fire Protection

Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269.

Abbreviations Found In This Instruction Manual:

• CSA - Canadian Standards Association

• ANSI - American National Standards Institute

• NFPA - National Fire Protection Association

• ASME - American Society of Mechanical Engineers

• GAMA - Gas Appliance Manufacturer’s Association

• UL - Underwriters Laboratories Inc.

3. The water heater when installed must be grounded in accordance

with the local codes, or in the absence of local codes: In the United

States, the National Electrical Code. ANSI/NFPA 70.

4. If after reading this manual you have any questions or do not

understand any portion of the instructions, call the local gas utility

or the manufacturer whose name appears on the rating plate.

This gas-fired water heater is design certified by Underwriters

Laboratories Inc. underAmerican National Standard/CSAStandard for

Gas Water Heaters ANSI Z21.10.1 • CSA 4.1 (current edition).

5. Carefully plan the place where you are going to put the water heater.

Correct combustion, vent action, and vent pipe installation are

very important in preventing death from possible carbon monoxide

poisoning and ﬁres, see Figures 1 and 2.

PREPARING FOR THE INSTALLATION

Examine the location to ensure the water heater complies with the

“Locating the New Water Heater” section in this manual.

1. Read the “General Safety” section, page 3 of this manual ﬁrst and

then the entire manual carefully. If you don’t follow the safety rules,

the water heater will not operate properly. It could cause DEATH,

SERIOUS BODILY INJURY AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.

6. For California installation this water heater must be braced,

anchored, or strapped to avoid falling or moving during an

earthquake. See instructions for correct installation procedures.

Instructions may be obtained from California Ofﬁce of the State

Architect, 400 P Street, Sacramento, CA 95814.

This manual contains instructions for the installation, operation,

and maintenance of the gas-ﬁred water heater. It also contains

warnings throughout the manual that you must read and be aware

of. All warnings and all instructions are essential to the proper

operation of the water heater and your safety. Since we cannot put

everything on the ﬁrst few pages, READ THE ENTIRE MANUAL

BEFOREATTEMPTING TO INSTALL OR OPERATE THE WATER

HEATER.

7. Massachusetts Code requires this water heater to be installed in

accordance with Massachusetts 248-CMR 2.00: State Plumbing

Code and 248-CMR 5.00. For more information see next page.

8. Complies with SCAQMD rule #1121 and districts having equivalent

NOx requirements.

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INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS FOR THE COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS

For all side wall terminated, horizontally vented power vent, direct vent, and power direct vent gas fueled water heaters installed

in every dwelling, building or structure used in whole or in part for residential purposes, including those owned or operated by

the Commonwealth and where the side wall exhaust vent termination is less than seven (7) feet above ﬁnished grade in the

area of the venting, including but not limited to decks and porches, the following requirements shall be satisﬁed:

INSTALLATION OF CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS At the time of installation of the side wall horizontal vented gas

fueled equipment, the installing plumber or gasﬁtter shall observe that a hard wired carbon monoxide detector with an alarm

and battery back-up is installed on the ﬂoor level where the gas equipment is to be installed. In addition, the installing plumber

or gasﬁtter shall observe that a battery operated or hard wired carbon monoxide detector with an alarm is installed on each

additional level of the dwelling, building or structure served by the sidewall horizontal vented gas fueled equipment. It shall

be the responsibility of the property owner to secure the services of qualiﬁed licensed professionals for the installation of hard

wired carbon monoxide detectors.

In the event that the side wall horizontally vented gas fueled equipment is installed in a crawl space or an attic, the hard wired

carbon monoxide detector with alarm and battery back-up may be installed on the next adjacent ﬂoor level.

In the event that the requirements of this subdivision can not be met at the time of completion of installation, the owner shall

have a period of thirty (30) days to comply with the above requirements provided that during said thirty (30) day period, a bat-

tery operated carbon monoxide detector with an alarm shall be installed.

APPROVED CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS Each carbon monoxide detector as required in accordance with the above

provisions shall comply with NFPA 720 and be ANSI/UL 2034 listed and CSA certiﬁed.

SIGNAGE Ametal or plastic identiﬁcation plate shall be permanently mounted to the exterior of the building at a minimum height

of eight (8) feet above grade directly in line with the exhaust vent terminal for the horizontally vented gas fueled heating appli-

ance or equipment. The sign shall read, in print size no less than one-half (1/2) inch in size, “GAS VENT DIRECTLY BELOW.

KEEP CLEAR OF ALL OBSTRUCTIONS.”

INSPECTION The state or local gas inspector of the side wall horizontally vented gas fueled equipment shall not approve the

installation unless, upon inspection, the inspector observes carbon monoxide detectors and signage installed in accordance

with the provisions of 248 CMR 5.08(2)(a) 1 through 4.

EXEMPTIONS: The following equipment is exempt from 248 CMR 5.08(2)(a)1 through 4:

1. The equipment listed in Chapter 10 entitled “Equipment Not Required To Be Vented” in the most current edition of NFPA 54

as adopted by the Board; and

2. Product Approved side wall horizontally vented gas fueled equipment installed in a room or structure separate from the

dwelling, building, or structure used in whole or in part for residential purposes.

MANUFACTURER REQUIREMENTS - GAS EQUIPMENT VENTING SYSTEM PROVIDED When the manufacturer of Product

Approved side wall horizontally vented gas equipment provides a venting system design or venting system components with

the equipment, the instructions provided by the manufacturer for installation of the equipment and the venting system shall

include:

1. Detailed instructions for the installation of the venting system design or the venting system components; and

2. A complete parts list for the venting system design or venting system.

MANUFACTURER REQUIREMENTS - GAS EQUIPMENT VENTING SYSTEM NOT PROVIDED When the manufacturer of

a Product Approved side wall horizontally vented gas fueled equipment does not provide the parts for venting the ﬂue gases,

but identiﬁes “special venting systems,” the following requirements shall be satisﬁed by the manufacturer:

1. The referenced “special venting system” instructions shall be included with the appliance or equipment installation

instructions; and

2. The “special venting systems” shall be Product Approved by the Board, and the instructions for that system shall include a

parts list and detailed installation instructions.

A copy of all installation instructions for all Product Approved side wall horizontally vented gas fueled equipment, all venting

instructions, all parts lists for venting instructions, and/or all venting design instructions shall remain with the appliance or

equipment at the completion of the installation.

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TYPICAL INSTALLATION

GET TO KNOW YOUR WATER HEATER - GAS MODELS

Vent Pipe–Exhaust

Vent Terminal

Flue

Air Intake Screen - Base Pan

Flue Bafﬂe Assembly**

Insulation

Control Harness

Rating Plate

AA Inner Door

B B Outer Door

Vent Adapter-Rubber Boot

Blower Assembly

Cold Water Inlet

Inlet Water Shut-off Valve

Union

CC HSI Burner Assembly

D D Air Intake Screen -

Blower Assembly

E E FV Sensor/Bracket Assembly

(40K & 50K Models Only)

F F FV Sensor/Bracket Assembly

(55K & 62.5K Models Only)

Gas Supply

Manual Gas Shut-off Valve

Ground Joint Union

Drip Leg (Sediment Trap)

Drain Valve

Gas Control Valve

Drain Pan

Inlet Dip Tube

Anode**

Hot Water Outlet

Outlet Receptacle (115 VAC)

Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve

* ALL PIPING MATERIALS TO BE SUPPLIED BY CUSTOMERS.

** LOCATED UNDER THE BLOWER ASSEMBLY.

NATURAL HOT SURFACE IGNITER & MAIN BURNER

HOT

SURFACE

IGNITOR

SENSOR

PROPANE HOT SURFACE IGNITER & MAIN BURNER

HOT

SURFACE

IGNITOR

SENSOR

GAS CONTROL VALVE-THERMOSTAT

TEMPERATURE INDICATORS

*CAUTION: 115 VAC IN CONTROL HARNESS

AND INSIDE OUTER DOOR

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT BUTTONS

GAS MODELS

WITH HOT SURFACE IGNITION

& 2", 3" OR 4" PVC VENT CAPABILITY

FIGURE 1.

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TYPICAL INSTALLATION

MIXING VALVE USAGE

FIGURE 2.

This appliance has been design certiﬁed as complying with American

National Standard/CSA Standard for water heaters and is considered

suitable for:

Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a

temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish

washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently injure

you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently

injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children,

the inﬁrm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot

water in your home ﬁts into one of these groups or if there is a local

code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot water

tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to using the

lowest possible temperature setting that satisﬁes your hot water needs,

a means such as a *Mixing Valve, should be used at the hot water taps

used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves are available

at plumbing supply or hardware stores. Consult a Qualiﬁed Installer or

Service Agency. Follow mixing valve manufacturer’s instructions for

installation of the valves. Before changing the factory setting on the

thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in this manual,

see Figure 19.

Water (Potable) Heating and Space Heating: All models are

considered suitable for water (potable) heating and space heating.

HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:

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LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER

FACTS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE LOCATION

Carefully choose an indoor location for the new water heater, because

the placement is a very important consideration for the safety of

the occupants in the building and for the most economical use of

the appliance. This water heater is not for use in manufactured

(mobile) homes or outdoor installation.

FIGURE 3.

Whether replacing an old water heater or putting the water heater in

a new location, the following critical points must be observed:

1. Select a location indoors as close as practical to the vent terminal

or location to which the water heater vent piping is going to be

connected, and as centralized with the water piping system as

possible.

Also, the water heater must be located and/or protected so it is not

subject to physical damage by a moving vehicle.

2. Selected location must provide adequate clearances for servicing

and proper operation of the water heater.

Installation of the water heater must be accomplished in such a manner

that if the tank or any connections should leak, the ﬂow will not cause

damage to the structure. For this reason, it is not advisable to install

the water heater in an attic or upper ﬂoor. When such locations cannot

be avoided, a suitable drain pan should be installed under the water

heater. Drain pans are available at your local hardware store. Such

a drain pan must have a minimum length and width of at least 2" (5.1

cm) greater that the water heater dimensions and must be piped to an

adequate drain. The pan must not restrict combustion air ﬂow.

Water heater life depends upon water quality, water pressure and the

environment in which the water heater is installed. Water heaters are

sometimes installed in locations where leakage may result in property

damage, even with the use of a drain pan piped to a drain. However,

unanticipated damage can be reduced or prevented by a leak detector

or water shut-off device used in conjunction with a piped drain pan.

These devices are available from some plumbing supply wholesalers

and retailers, and detect and react to leakage in various ways:

• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that trigger an alarm or turn off

the incoming water to the water heater when leakage is detected.

• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that turn off the water supply to

the entire home when water is detected in the drain pan.

This water heater must not be installed directly on carpeting. Carpeting

must be protected by metal or wood panel beneath the appliance

extending beyond the full width and depth of the appliance by at least

3" (7.6 cm) in any direction, or if the appliance is installed in an alcove

or closet, the entire ﬂoor must be covered by the panel. Failure to

heed this warning may result in a ﬁre hazard.

• Water supply shut-off devices that activate based on the water

pressure differential between the cold water and hot water pipes

connected to the water heater.

• Devices that will turn off the gas supply to a gas water heater while

at the same time shutting off its water supply.

INSTALLATIONS IN AREAS WHERE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS

(VAPORS)ARE LIKELY TO BE PRESENT OR STORED (GARAGES,

STORAGEAND UTILITYAREAS, ETC.): Flammable liquids (such as

gasoline, solvents, propane (LP or butane, etc.) and other substances

(such as adhesives, etc.) emit ﬂammable vapors which can be ignited

by a gas water heater’s hot surface igniter or main burner. The

resulting ﬂashback and ﬁre can cause death or serious burns to anyone

in the area. This water is equipped with a FV sensor for detecting the

presence of ﬂammable vapors, see Figure 3. When the sensor detects

those vapors, the unit will shut down and not operate. Should this

happen, please refer to the troubleshooting guide on pages 28-30.

Even though this water heater is a ﬂammable vapors ignition resistant

water heater and is designed to reduce the chances of ﬂammable

vapors being ignited, gasoline and other ﬂammable substances should

never be stored or used in the same vicinity or area containing a gas

water heater or other open ﬂame or spark producing appliance.

Minimum clearances between the water heater and combustible

construction are 0 inch at the sides and rear, 5" (12.7 cm) from the front

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and 12" (30.5 cm) from the top. (Standard clearance.) If clearances

stated on the heater differ from standard clearances, install water

heater according to clearances stated on the heater.

chlorine based chemicals, refrigerants, etc.) in addition to being highly

ﬂammable in many cases, will also react to form corrosive hydrochloric

acid when exposed to the combustion products of the water heater.

The results can be hazardous, and also cause product failure.

Adequate clearance for servicing this appliance should be considered

before installation, such as changing the anodes, etc.

INSULATION BLANKETS

Insulation blankets are available to the general public for external use

on gas water heaters but are not necessary with these products. The

purpose of an insulation blanket is to reduce the standby heat loss

encountered with storage tank heaters. Your water heater meets or

exceeds the National Appliance Energy Conversation Act standards

with respect to insulation and standby loss requirements, making an

insulation blanket unnecessary.

A minimum clearance of 5" (12.7 cm) must be allowed for access

to replaceable parts such as the thermostats, drain valve and relief

valve.

When installing the heater, consideration must be given to proper

location. Location selected should be as close to the wall as practicable

and as centralized with the water piping system as possible.

Should you choose to apply an insulation blanket to this heater, you

should follow these instructions (For identiﬁcation of components

mentioned below, see Figure 1). Failure to follow these instructions

can restrict the air ﬂow required for proper combustion, potentially

resulting in ﬁre, asphyxiation, serious personal injury or death.

FIGURE 4.

Agas water heater cannot operate properly without the correct amount

of air for combustion. Do not install in a conﬁned area such as a closet,

unless you provide air as shown in the “Locating The New Water

Heater” section. Never obstruct the ﬂow of ventilation air. If you have

any doubts or questions at all, call your gas supplier. Failure to provide

the proper amount of combustion air can result in a ﬁre or explosion

and cause death, serious bodily injury, or property damage.

• Do not apply insulation to the top of the water heater, as this will

interfere with safe operation of the draft hood.

• Do not cover the outer door, thermostat or temperature & pressure

relief valve.

• Do not allow insulation to come within 2" (5.1 cm) of the ﬂoor to

prevent blockage of combustion air ﬂow to the burner.

• Do not cover the instruction manual. Keep it on the side of the

water heater or nearby for future reference.

• Do obtain new warning and instruction labels from the manufacturer

for placement on the blanket directly over the existing labels.

• Do inspect the insulation blanket frequently to make certain it

does not sag, thereby obstructing combustion air ﬂow.

COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR

APPLIANCES LOCATED IN UNCONFINED SPACES

UNCONFINED SPACE is space whose volume is not less than

50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cubic meters per kW) of the

aggregate input rating of all appliances installed in that space. Rooms

communicating directly with the space in which the appliances are

installed, through openings not furnished with doors, are considered

a part of the unconﬁned space.

In unconﬁned spaces in buildings, inﬁltration may be adequate to

provide air for combustion, ventilation and dilution of ﬂue gases.

However, in buildings of tight construction (for example, weather

stripping, heavily insulated, caulked, vapor barrier, etc.), additional air

may need to be provided using the methods described in “Combustion

Air and Ventilation for Appliances Located in Conﬁned Spaces.”

FIGURE 5.

COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR

APPLIANCES LOCATED IN CONFINED SPACES

If this water heater will be used in beauty shops, barber shops, cleaning

establishments, or self-service laundries with dry cleaning equipment, it

is imperative that the water heater or water heaters be installed so that

combustion and ventilation air be taken from outside these areas.

CONFINED SPACE is a space whose volume is less than 50 cubic

feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cm per kW) of the aggregate input

rating of all appliances installed in that space.

Propellants of aerosol sprays and volatile compounds, (cleaners,

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Chemical vapor corrosion of the ﬂue, blower assembly and vent

system may occur if air for combustion contains certain chemical

vapors. Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and

air conditioner refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and

sodium chloride, waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical

compounds which are potentially corrosive.

A. ALL AIR FROM INSIDE BUILDINGS: (See Figure 5 and 6)

The conﬁned space shall be provided with two permanent openings

communicating directly with an additional room(s) of sufﬁcient volume

so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the criteria for an

unconﬁned space. The total input of all gas utilization equipment

installed in the combined space shall be considered in making this

determination. Each opening shall have a minimum free area of one

square inch per 1,000 Btu per hour (22 cm²/kW) of the total input rating of

all gas utilization equipment in the conﬁned space, but not less than 100

square inches (645 cm²). One opening shall commence within 12 inches

(31 cm) of the top and one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) of

the bottom of the enclosures.

FIGURE 8.

4. When ducts are used, they shall be of the same cross-sectional

area as the free area of the openings to which they connect. The

minimum short side dimension of rectangular air ducts shall not

be less than 3 inches (7.6 cm), see Figure 9.

FIGURE 9.

FIGURE 6.

5. Alternatively a single permanent opening may be used when

communicating directly with the outdoors, or with spaces that freely

communicate with the outdoors. The opening shall have a minimum

free area of 1 square inch per 3,000 BTU per hour (8.3 cm²/kW)

of total input rating of all equipment in enclosure. See Figure 9A.

B. ALL AIR FROM OUTDOORS: (See Figures 7, 8 and 9)

The conﬁned space shall be provided with two permanent openings,

one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) of the top and one

commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) from the bottom of the

enclosure. The openings shall communicate directly, or by ducts,

with the outdoors or spaces (crawl or attic) that freely communicate

with the outdoors.

1. When directly communicating with the outdoors, each opening shall

have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000 Btu per hour

(5.5 cm²/kW) of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure,

see Figure 7.

FIGURE 9A.

6. Louvers and Grilles: In calculating free area, consideration shall be

given to the blocking effect of louvers, grilles or screens protecting

openings. Screens used shall not be smaller than 1/4 inch

(6.4 mm) mesh. If the free area through a design of louver or

grille is known, it should be used in calculating the size opening

required to provide the free area speciﬁed. If the design and free

area is not known, it may be assumed that wood louvers will be

20-25 percent free area and metal louvers and grilles will have

60-75 percent free area. Louvers and grilles shall be ﬁxed in the

open position or interlocked with the equipment so that they are

opened automatically during equipment operation.

FIGURE 7.

2. When communicating with the outdoors through vertical ducts, each

opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000

Btu per hour (5.5 cm²/kW) of total input rating of all equipment in

the enclosure, see Figure 8.

7. Special Conditions Created by Mechanical Exhausting or

Fireplaces: operation of exhaust fans, ventilation systems, clothes

dryers or fireplaces may create conditions requiring special

attention to avoid unsatisfactory operation of installed gas utilization

equipment.

3. When communicating with the outdoors through horizontal ducts,

each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch

per 2,000 Btu per hour (11 cm²/kW)) of total input rating of all

equipment in the enclosure, see Figure 9.

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INSTALLING THE NEW WATER HEATER

THERMAL EXPANSION

As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion). In a closed system

WATER PIPING

the volume of water will grow. As the volume of water grows there will be

a corresponding increase in water pressure due to thermal expansion.

Thermal expansion can cause premature tank failure (leakage). This type

of failure is not covered under the limited warranty. Thermal expansion

can also cause intermittent temperature-pressure relief valve operation:

water discharged from the valve due to excessive pressure build up. The

temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended for the constant relief

of thermal expansion. This condition is not covered under the limited

warranty.

A properly sized thermal expansion tank should be installed on all

closed systems to control the harmful effects of thermal expansion.

Contact a local plumbing service agency to have a thermal expansion

tank installed.

NOTE: To protect against untimely corrosion of hot and cold

water ﬁttings, it is strongly recommended that di-electric unions

or couplings be installed on this water heater when connected to

copper pipe.

HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:

Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to

a temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing,

dish washing, cleaning and other sanitizing needs can scald and

permanently injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely

to be permanently injured by hot water than others. These include

the elderly, children, the inﬁrm, or physically/mentally handicapped.

If anyone using hot water in your home ﬁts into one of these groups

or if there is a local code or state law requiring a certain temperature

water at the hot water tap, then you must take special precautions. In

addition to using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisﬁes

your hot water needs, a means such as a *mixing valve, should be

used at the hot water taps used by these people or at the water heater,

see Figure 2. Valves for reducing point of use temperature by mixing

cold and hot water are also available:

All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the

National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) whichever applies.

Copper and brass tubing and ﬁttings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall

not be used.

Consult a Qualiﬁed Installer or Service Agency. Follow manufacturer’s

instructions for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory

setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in

this manual.

This water heater shall not be connected to any heating systems or

component(s) used with a non-potable water heating appliance.

All piping components connected to this unit for space heating

applications shall be suitable for use with potable water.

Toxic chemicals, such as those used for boiler treatment shall not be

introduced into this system.

When the system requires water for space heating at temperatures

higher than required for domestic water purposes, a tempering valve

must be installed. Please refer to Figure 2 for suggested piping

arrangement.

CLOSED WATER SYSTEMS

Water supply systems may, because of code requirements or such

conditions as high line pressure, among others, have installed devices

such as pressure reducing valves, check valves, and back flow

preventers. Devices such as these cause the water system to be a

closed system.

FIGURE 10.

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Figure 10 shows the typical attachment of the water piping to the The valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to

water heater. The water heater is equipped with 3/4 inch NPT water

connections.

exceed the marked hydrostatic working pressure of the water heater

(150 psi = 1,035 kPa) and a discharge capacity not less than the water

heater input rate as shown on the model rating plate.

NOTE: If using copper tubing, solder tubing to an adapter before

attaching the adapter to the cold water inlet connection. Do not

solder the cold water supply line directly to the cold water inlet.

It will harm the dip tube and damage the tank.

For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not be

removed from its designated opening nor plugged.

The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly into

the ﬁtting of the water heater designed for the relief valve. Position the

valve downward and provide tubing so that any discharge will exit only

within 6 inches (15.2 cm) above, or at any distance below the structural

ﬂoor. Be certain that no contact is made with any live electrical part.

The discharge opening must not be blocked or reduced in size under

any circumstances. Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14 m), or use of

more than four elbows can cause restriction and reduce the discharge

capacity of the valve, see Figures 10 or 14.

T & P Valve and Pipe Insulation (if supplied)

Remove insulation for T & P valve and pipe connections from carton.

No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief valve

and the tank. Do not connect tubing directly to discharge drain unless

a 6" (15.2 cm) air gap is provided. To prevent bodily injury, hazard to

life, or property damage, the relief valve must be allowed to discharge

water in quantities should circumstances demand. If the discharge pipe

is not connected to a drain or other suitable means, the water ﬂow may

cause property damage.

FIGURE 11.

Fit pipe insulation over the incoming cold water line and the hot water

line. Make sure that the insulation is against the top cover of the

heater.

Fit T & P valve insulation over valve. Make sure that the insulation does

not interfere with the lever of the T & P valve.

Secure all insulation using tape.

The Discharge Pipe:

• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the valve, or

have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.

• Shall not be plugged or blocked.

TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.

• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the

temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.

• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.

• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.

This heater is provided with a properly certified combination

temperature - pressure relief valve by the manufacturer.

The valve is certiﬁed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory

that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment of

materials as meeting the requirements for Relief Valves for Hot Water

Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22 • CSA 4.4, and the code requirements

of ASME.

The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at least

once a year. Caution should be taken to ensure that (1) no one is in front

of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve discharge

line, and (2) the water manually discharged will not cause any bodily injury

or property damage because the water may be extremely hot.

If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and

continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet

to the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the

temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.

If replaced, the valve must meet the requirements of local codes, but not

less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve certiﬁed

as indicated in the above paragraph.

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When installed at elevations above 7,700 feet (2,347 meters), input

rating should be reduced at the rate of 4 percent for each 1,000 feet

(305 meters) above sea level which requires replacement of the

burner oriﬁce in accordance with National Fuel Gas CodeANSI Z223.1/

NFPA 54. Contact your local gas supplier for further information.

GAS PIPING

Failure to replace the standard oriﬁce with a high altitude oriﬁce when

installed could result in improper and inefﬁcient operation of the

appliance, producing carbon monoxide gas in excess of safe limits,

which could result in serious injury or death. Contact your gas supplier

for any speciﬁc changes which may be required in your area.

Make sure the gas supplied is the same type listed on the model

rating plate. The inlet gas pressure must not exceed 14 inch water

column (3.5 kPa) for natural and propane gas (L.P.). The minimum

inlet gas pressure shown on the rating plate is that which will permit

ﬁring at rated input.

All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the

National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) whichever applies.

Copper and brass tubing and ﬁttings (except tin lined copper tubing)

shall not be used.

Use pipe joint compound or teﬂon tape marked as being resistant to

the action of petroleum [Propane (L.P.)] gases.

The appliance and its gas connection must be leak tested before

placing the appliance in operation.

If the gas control valve is subjected to pressures exceeding 1/2 psi

(14 inches water column) (3.5 kPa), the damage to the gas control

valve could result in a ﬁre or explosion from leaking gas.

The appliance and its individual Shut-off valve shall be disconnected

from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of that

system at test pressures in excess of 1/2 pound per square inch (14

inches water column) (3.5 kPa). It shall be isolated from the gas supply

piping system by closing its individual manual Shut-off valve during

any pressure testing of the gas supply piping system at test pressures

equal to or less than 1/2 pound per square inch (3.5 kPa).

If the main gas line Shut-off serving all gas appliances is used, also

turn “off” the gas at each appliance. Leave all gas appliances shut

“off” until the water heater installation is complete.

A gas line of sufﬁcient size must be run to the water heater. Consult

the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54

and your gas supplier concerning pipe size.

Connecting the gas piping to the gas control valve of the water heater

can be accomplished by either of the two methods shown in Figures

12 and 13.

There must be:

• A readily accessible manual shut off valve in the gas supply line

serving the water heater, and

• A drip leg (sediment trap) ahead of the gas control valve to help

prevent dirt and foreign materials from entering the gas control

valve.

• A ﬂexible gas connector or a ground joint union between the shut

off valve and control valve to permit servicing of the unit.

Be sure to check all the gas piping for leaks before lighting the water

heater. Use a soapy water solution, not a match or open ﬂame. Rinse

off soapy solution and wipe dry.

FIGURE 12. GAS PIPING WITH

FLEXIBLE CONNECTOR.

FIGURE 13. GAS PIPING WITH ALL

BLACK IRON PIPE TO GAS CONTROL VALVE.

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SEDIMENT TRAPS

To ﬁll the water heater with water:

1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to the

right (clockwise). The drain valve is on the lower front of the water

heater.

2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.

NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when

the water heater is in use.

3. To insure complete ﬁlling of the tank, allow air to exit by opening

the nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until a constant

ﬂow is obtained. This will let air out of the water heater and the

piping.

4. Check all water piping and connections for leaks. Repair as

needed.

BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

A sediment trap shall be installed as close to the inlet of the water

heater as practical at the time of water heater installation. The sediment

trap shall be either a tee ﬁtting with a capped nipple in the bottom

outlet or other device recognized as an effective sediment trap. If a

tee ﬁtting is used, it shall be installed in conformance with one of the

methods of installation shown in Figures 12 and 13.

SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATION

1. This power vented water heater comes with the blower assembly

installed.

After the unit is set in place, make sure the blower assembly is still

mounted securely and the air intake screen of the blower assembly

is installed in the dilution air opening. Also make sure the drain

port of the rubber boot vent adapter is capped off. Lastly, make

sure there is no damage to the blower.

Contaminants in the gas lines may cause improper operation of the

gas control valve that may result in ﬁre or explosion. Before attaching

the gas line be sure that all gas pipe is clean on the inside. To trap any

dirt or foreign material in the gas supply line, a drip leg (sometimes

called a sediment trap) must be incorporated in the piping. The drip leg

must be readily accessible. Install in accordance with the “Gas Piping”

section. Refer to the current edition of the National Fuel Gas Code,

ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54.

3. Make sure there is no packing material in the discharge of the

blower or the intake of the dilution air restrictor, see Figure 15.

4. Make sure that the plastic tubing is still attached from the air pressure

switch to the port on the blower housing. Make sure the plastic tubing

is not folded anywhere between the pressure switch and the blower

housing.

5. Make sure the ON/OFF switch is in the OFF position and that the

outer harness is connected from the blower control box to the

connector on the bottom side of the gas control valve.

6. If the outer harness is not factory installed, make sure the ON/OFF

switch is in the OFF position and then connect the outer harness

from the blower control box to the connector on the bottom side

of the gas control valve.

7. This water heater is a polarity sensitive appliance and will not operate if

thepowersupplypolarityisreversed. Thepowersupplyoroutletproviding

power to this water heater must be wired properly (correct polarity).

8. Do not plug in power cord until vent system is completely installed. This

powered vent heater operates on 110-120 Vac, therefore a grounded

outlet must be within reach of the six (6) foot (1.8 m) ﬂexible power

cord supplied with the unit (see Figure 1). The power cord supplied

may be used only where local codes permit. If local codes do not

permit the use of a ﬂexible power supply cord:

FIGURE 14.

FILLING THE WATER HEATER

a.) Make sure the unit is unplugged from wall outlet. Remove screws

and open panel on front of control box.

b.) Cut the ﬂexible power cord, leaving enough to be able to make

connections, the remove the strain relief ﬁtting from box.

c.) Install suitable conduit ﬁtting in side of enclosure and then follow

(d.) and (e.) below.

d.) Splice ﬁeld wiring into existing wiring using code authorized method

(wire nuts, etc.).

e.) Be certain that neutral and live connections are not reversed when

making these connections.

f.) Close panel on the side of control box, make sure that access

panel is secured shut.

Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. To prevent

damage to the tank, the tank must be ﬁlled with water. Water must ﬂow

from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the water heater.

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VENT CONNECTIONS TO BLOWER ASSEMBLY

VENTING AND INSTALLATION

Figure 15 shows the optimal placement of the 2" to 3" or 3" to

4" reducer; however, the vent can be reduced at any point in the

vent system as long as the maximum and minimum vent length

requirements are met.

Plan the layout of the vent system from the vent termination to the water

heater considering all of the 90° and 45° elbows plus the number of

feet of pipe that would be needed to install the total vent system. The

water heater must be vented to the outdoors as described in these

instructions. DO NOT connect this water heater to an existing vent

or chimney. It must be vented separately from all other appliances.

Nonmetallic vent may be used if it has “Heat Deﬂection Temperature”

(HDT@66 psi) or 455 kPa of at least 157°F or 69°C. Typical nonmetallic

vent materials meeting this requirement are: PVC (Schedule 40,ASTM

D-1785), Coex Cellular Core (Schedule 40, ASTM F-441), CPVC

(Schedule 40, ASTM D-2846), ABS (Schedule 40, ASTM D-2661).

The ﬁttings, other than the supplied Vent Termination should be

equivalent to the following: PVC (Schedule 40, DWV, ASTM D-2665),

CPVC (Schedule 40, DWV, ASTM F-438), ABS (Schedule 40 DWV,

ASTM D-2661).

The cement used should be as recommended by the vent pipe

manufacturer. See the instructions on pages 18 and 19 for the proper

method of cutting and cementing the PVC pipe and ﬁttings.

FIGURE 15.

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The unit may be vented horizontally through a wall or vertically through

the roof. Pipe runs must be adequately supported along both vertical

and horizontal runs as follows:

condensate in the vent piping. If this occurs, then adequate means

of draining and disposing of the condensate needs to be made by

the installer.

• For Schedule 40, 2" PVC,ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every

3 feet (0.9 m).

CONDENSATE

Condensate formation does not occur in all installations of power vented

water heaters, but should be protected against on installations where it

can form in the venting system. Condensation in the venting system of

power vented water heaters is dependent upon installation conditions

including, but not limited to ambient temperature and humidity of

installation location, ambient temperature and humidity of venting space,

vent discharge and slope, and product usage. In certain conditions,

installations in unconditioned space or having long horizontal or vertical

vent runs may accumulate condensate. In these conditions, the vent

pipe should be sloped downward away from the blower assembly

1/4" (6.4 mm) per ﬁve feet (1.5 m) of pipe but not more than 1 1/2" (3.8

cm) in the total vent length. If the vent piping is vented level or sloped

upwards away from the blower assembly, then adequate means for

draining and disposing of the condensate needs to be made by the

installer (if condensate is detected). If you have condensate, then a

3/8" drain hose can be connected to the built-in drain port of the rubber

boot on the blower assembly. For your convenience, the rubber boot

is supplied with a removable cap on the built-in drain port. Prior to

operating the water heater, make sure the removable cap is installed

on the drain port (if a drain hose is not needed).

• For Schedule 40, 3" PVC,ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every

3.5 feet (1.1 m).

• For Schedule 40, 4" PVC,ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every

4 feet (1.2 m).

• For Schedule 40, 2" CPVC vent pipe: Every 5 feet (1.5 m).

• For Schedule 40, 3" CPVC vent pipe: Every 6 feet (1.8 m).

• For Schedule 40, 4" CPVC vent pipe: Every 6.5 feet (2.0 m).

It is imperative that the ﬁrst hanger (or support) be located on the

horizontal run immediately adjacent to the ﬁrst 90-degree elbow from

the vertical rise. Support method used should isolate the vent pipe from

the ﬂoor joists or other structural members to prevent the transmission

of noise and vibration. Do not support, pin, or otherwise secure the

venting system in a way that restricts the normal thermal expansion

and contraction of the chosen venting material.

MAXIMUM AND MINIMUM VENT LENGTHS

If the water heater is being installed as a replacement for an existing

power vented heater in pre-existing venting, a through inspection of

the existing venting system must be performed prior to any installation

work. Verify that the correct material as detailed above has been used,

and that the minimum or maximum vent lengths and terminal location

as detailed in this manual have been met. Carefully inspect the entire

venting system for any signs of cracks or fractures, particularly at

the joints between elbows and other ﬁttings and the straight runs of

vent pipe. Check the system for signs of sagging or other stresses

in the joints as a result of misalignment of any components in the

system. If any of these conditions are found, they must be corrected

in accordance with the venting instructions in this manual before

completing the installation and putting the water heater into service.

40,000 BTU Units:

For 2" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is 40

feet (12.2 m). This does not include the supplied vent termination for

the water heater. For the 2" venting, one 90° elbow is approximately

equal to 5 feet (1.5 m). One 45° elbow is approximately equal to 2.5

feet (0.8 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m) of spacing

be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

For 3" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is

120 feet (36.6 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied

locally) for the water heater. For the 3" venting, one 90° elbow is

approximately equal to 5 feet (1.5 m). One 45° elbow is approximately

equal to 2.5 feet (0.8 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)

of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

Except where instructed in this manual, the mixing of 2", 3" and 4"

vent pipe is NOT ALLOWED. If 2" pipe is to be used, then a 2" to 3"

bell reducer is recommended. Figure 15 shows the recommended

location for the bell reducer. If the bell reducer is located at the

rubber boot on the blower assembly, then a short section of 3" vent

pipe needs to be installed in the rubber boot for proper connection of

the 2" to 3" bell reducer. That length can be of the minimum length

required for the connection.

For 4" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is

160 feet (48.8 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied

locally) for the water heater. For the 4" venting, one 90° elbow is

approximately equal to 8 feet (2.4 m). One 45° elbow is approximately

equal to 4 feet (1.2 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)

of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

If 4" pipe is to be used, then a 3" to 4" bell reducer is recommended.

Figure 15 shows the recommended location for the bell reducer. If

the bell reducer is located at the rubber boot on the blower assembly,

then a short section of 3" vent pipe needs to be installed in the rubber

boot for proper connection of the 3" to 4" bell reducer. That length

can be of the minimum length required for the connection.

50,000 BTU Units:

For 2" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is 40

feet (12.2 m). This does not include the supplied Vent Termination for

the water heater. For the 2" venting, one 90° elbow is approximately

equal to 5 feet (1.5 m). One 45° elbow is approximately equal to 2.5

feet (0.8 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m) of spacing

be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

The 40,000, 50,000, 55,000 and 62,500 BTU units are supplied with

a 2" Schedule 40 PVC 22.5° Vent Terminal. If you decide to vent with

3" or 4" pipe, a Schedule 40 DWV 45° Vent Terminal must be used.

For your convenience, we have included a screen for both 3" and 4"

Vent Terminals.

For 3" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is

120 feet (36.6 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied

locally) for the water heater. For the 3" venting, one 90° elbow is

approximately equal to 5 feet (1.5 m). One 45° elbow is approximately

equal to 2.5 feet (0.8 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)

of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

The vent piping should be connected to the blower with a rubber

adapter and secured with hose clamps. The adapter and clamps are

provided with the heater.

Even the flue gas temperature leaving the blower is between

140°F (69°C) and 175°F (79°C), some installations will have water

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For 4" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is

160 feet (48.8 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied

locally) for the water heater. For the 4" venting, one 90° elbow is

approximately equal to 8 feet (2.4 m). One 45° elbow is approximately

equal to 4 feet (1.2 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)

of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are

maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the

National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54, 7.3.4e and 7.8a,b,

as follows:

1. The exit terminals of a mechanical vent system shall be not less

than 7 feet (2.13 m) above grade when located adjacent to public

walkways, see Figure 16.

55,000 and 62,500 BTU Units:

NOTE: The 55,000 and 62,500 BTU Units are not approved for 2"

venting.

2. Aventing system shall terminate at least 3 feet (0.91 m) above any

forced air inlet located within 10 feet (3.1 m), see Figure 16.

For 3" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is 80

feet (24.4 m). This does not include the supplied Vent Termination for

the water heater. For the 3" venting, one 90° elbow is approximately

equal to 5 feet (1.5 m). One 45° elbow is approximately equal to 2.5

feet (0.8 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m) of spacing

be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

3. The venting system shall terminate at least 4 feet (1.2 m) below,

4 feet (1.2 m) horizontally from or, 1 foot (0.31 m) above any door,

window or gravity air inlet into any building.

The manufacturer also recommends that the vent termination

should not be installed closer than 18" (45.7 cm) from an inside

corner of an L shaped structure and not be less than 1 foot (0.31

m) above grade.

For 4" Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed is

120 feet (36.6 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied

locally) for the water heater. For the 4" venting, one 90° elbow is

approximately equal to 8 feet (2.4 m). One 45° elbow is approximately

equal to 4 feet (1.2 m). It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)

of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.

The vent shall terminate a minimum of 12'' (30.5 cm) above

expected snowfall level to prevent blockage of vent termination,

see Figure 16.

VENTING

4. In cold climates, it is recommended that vent termination not be

mounted directly above or within 3 feet (0.91 m) horizontally from

an oil tank vent or gas meter to avoid potential freeze-up from

condensation, see Figure 16..

Plan the vent system layout so that proper clearances are maintained

from plumbing and wiring.

Vent pipes serving power vented appliances are classiﬁed by building

codes as “vent connectors”. Required clearances from combustible

materials must be provided in accordance with information in this

manual under LOCATION OF HEATER and VENT TERMINAL

INSTALLATIONS, and with the National Fuel Gas Code and local

codes.

VENT TERMINAL INSTALLATION

1. After the point of termination has been determined, use the cover

plate as a template to mark the hole for the vent pipe to insert

through the wall. BEWARE OF CONCEALED WIRING AND

PIPING INSIDE OF WALL.

2. If the Vent Terminal is being installed on the outside of a ﬁnished

wall, it may be easier to mark both the inside and outside wall.

Align the holes by drilling a hole through the center of the template

from the inside through to the outside. The template can now be

positioned on the outside wall using the drilled hole as a centering

point for the template.

3. A) MASONRY SIDE WALLS

Chisel an opening approximately one half inch larger than the

marked circle.

B) WOODEN SIDE WALLS

Drill a pilot hole approximately one quarter inch outside of the

marked circle. This pilot hole is used as a starting point for a

saws-all or sabre saw blade. Cut around the marked circle staying

approximately one quarter inch outside of the line. (This will allow

the vent pipe to easily slide through the opening. The resulting

gap will be covered up by the vent terminal cover plates.) Repeat

this step on inside wall if necessary.

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FIGURE 16.

This unit can vent through 2", 3" or 4" nonmetallic pipe and ﬁttings.

VERTICAL VENT TERMINATION RESTRICTIONS

The vent pipe installation can be started from either the blower

discharge or the termination wall. Keep in mind the total vent system

(pipe and elbows) when installing the vent system, see VENTING

AND INSTALLATION, pages 15 - 17.

1. Minimum of twelve 12" (30.5 cm) above the roof or twelve 12"

(30.5 cm) above the anticipated snow level. Provide proper support

for all pipe protruding through the roof.

FIGURE 17.

The vent terminal should be kept as close as possible to the outside

wall, but you need to allow at least 1.5" (3.8 cm) of pipe past the wall,

for the wall ﬂange and vent terminal to mount on the pipe.

Before the vent terminal is installed, caulk (not supplied) around the

pipe on the exterior wall and install the optional wall ﬂange. The ﬂange

can be held to the outside wall by placing some of the caulking on the

back of the ﬂange. The wall ﬂange is supplied for decorative purposes

only and is not a requirement for the vent termination (if not needed

by the installer).

VERTICAL VENT THROUGH ROOF

This unit is approved for venting through the roof with the type vent

terminal that is included with the unit. A proper ﬂashing or “BOOT”

should be used to seal the pipe where it exits the roof.

FIGURE 18.

2. 4' (1.2 m) from or 1' (0.3 m) above any gable, dormer, or other

roof structure with access to interior of building (i.e.-vent, window

etc.).

The total vent system should not exceed that which is speciﬁed, see

VENTING AND INSTALLATION, pages 15 - 17.

All of the pipe should be secured as per the instructions in the

instructions in the VENTING AND INSTALLATION, pages 15 - 17.

3. 3' (0.9 m) above any forced air inlet located within 10' (3.0 m).

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PRIMER

VENT PIPE PREPARATION

It is recommended that Tetrahydrofuran (THF) be used to prepare the

surfaces of pipe and ﬁttings for solvent welding. Do not use water,

rags, gasoline or any other substitutes for cleaning PVC or CPVC

surfaces. A chemical cleaner such as MEK may be used.

1. INITIAL PREPARATION

A. Make sure the solvent cement you are planning to use is

designed for the speciﬁc application you are attempting.

CEMENT

B. Know the physical and chemical characteristics and limitations

of the PVC and CPVC piping materials that you are about to

use.

The cement should be a bodied cement of approximately 500 to

1600 centipoise viscosity containing 10-20% (by weight) virgin PVC

material solvated with tetrahydrofuran (THF). Small quantities of

dimethyl formamide (DMF) may be included to act as a retarding

agent to extend curing time. Select the proper cement; Schedule 40

cement should be used for Schedule 40 pipe. Never use all-purpose

cements, commercial glues and adhesives orABS cement to join PVC

or CPVC pipe and ﬁttings.

C. Know the reputation of your manufacturer and their

products.

D. Know your own qualiﬁcations or those of your contractor. The

solvent welding technique of joining PVC and CPVC pipe is

a specialized skill just as any other pipe ﬁtting technique.

E. Closely supervise the installation and inspect the ﬁnished

job before start-up.

F. Contact the manufacturer, supplier, or competent consulting

agency if you have any questions about the application or

installation of PVC and CPVC pipe.

G. Take the time and effort to do a professional job. Shortcuts

will only cause you problems and delays in start-up. By far,

the majority of failures in PVC and CPVC systems are the

result of shortcuts and/or improper joining techniques.

APPLICATORS

Select a suitable pure bristle type paint brush. Use a proper width brush

or roller to apply the primer and cement (see chart below). Speedy

application of cement is important due to its fast drying characteristics.

IMPORTANT NOTE: A dauber type applicator should only be used

on pipe sizes 2" and below. For larger diameter pipe, a brush or roller

must be used.

2. SELECTION OF MATERIALS

•

Cutting Device - Saw or Pipe Cutter

Deburring Tool, Knife, File, or Beveling Machine (2" and above)

Brush - Pure Bristle

RECOMMENDED BRUSH* SIZE FOR PRIMER

AND CEMENT APPLICATIONS

Rag - Cotton (Not Synthetic)

Nominal Pipe

(IPS)

Size Brush Width

(INS.)

Primer and Cleaner

1-1/2

Solvent Cement - PVC for PVC Components and CPVC for CPVC

Components

1-1/2 - 2-1/2

*USE ONLY NATURAL BRISTLE

•

Containers - Metal or Glass to hold Primer and Cement. Select

the type of PVC or CPVC materials to be used on the basis of their

application with respect to chemical resistance, pressure rating,

temperature characteristics, etc.

3. MAKING THE JOINT

A. Cutting

Insertion Tool - Helpful for larger diameter pipe and ﬁttings 6 inches

(15.2 cm) and above.

Pipe must be squarely cut to allow for the proper interfacing of the

pipe end and the ﬁtting socket bottom. This can be accomplished

with a miter box saw or wheel type cutter. Wheel type cutters are

not generally recommended for larger diameters since they tend

to ﬂare the corner of the pipe end. If this type of cutter is used, the

ﬂare on the end must be completely removed.

NOTE: Power saws should be speciﬁcally designed to cut plastic

pipe.

STEP A

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B. Deburring

Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or ﬁle to remove burrs

from the end of small diameter pipe. Be sure to remove all burrs

from around the inside as well as the outside of the pipe. A slight

chamfer (bevel) of about 10°-15° should be added to the end to

permit easier insertion of the pipe into the end of the ﬁtting. Failure

to chamfer the edge of the pipe may remove cement from the ﬁtting

socket, causing the joint to leak.

STEP E

F. Joint assembly

Working quickly, insert the pipe into the ﬁtting socket bottom and

give the pipe or ﬁtting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement.

Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the

ﬁtting socket. A good joint will have sufﬁcient cement to make a

bead all the way around the outside of the ﬁtting hub. The ﬁtting

will have a tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet so

hold the joint together for about 15 seconds.

STEP B

C. Test dry ﬁt of the joint

Tapered ﬁtting sockets are designed so that an interfaced ﬁt should

occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into

the socket. Occasionally, when pipe ﬁtting dimensions are at the

tolerance extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the

bottom of the ﬁtting socket. When this happens, a sufﬁcient quantity

of cement must be applied to the joint to ﬁll the gap between the

pipe and ﬁtting. The gap must be ﬁlled to obtain a strong, leak-free

joint.

D. Inspection, cleaning, priming

Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and ﬁtting sockets and

remove all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping

fails to clean the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used.

Check for possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace

if necessary.

STEP F

G. Cleanup and joint movement

Depth-of-entry

Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and ﬁtting with a

dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.

Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has reached

the bottom of the ﬁtting socket in Step F. Measure the ﬁtting depth

and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. You may want to add

several inches to the distance and make a second mark as the

primer and cement will most likely destroy your ﬁrst one.

The joint should not be disturbed immediately after the cementing

procedure, and sufﬁcient time should be allowed for proper curing of

the joint. Exact drying time is difﬁcult to predict because it depends

on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement integrity.

For more speciﬁc information, you should contact your solvent

cement manufacturer.

Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and ﬁtting socket with a

natural bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the PVC

or CPVC for the solvent cementing step. Move quickly and without

hesitation to the cementing procedure while the surfaces are still

wet with primer.

E. Application of solvent cement

• Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside

of the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the ﬁtting

socket.

• Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the

ﬁtting socket. Avoid puddling.

• Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.

STEP G

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TEMPERATURE REGULATION

Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the water temperature

in certain situations may vary up to 30°F (16.7°C) higher or lower at

the point of use such as, bathtubs, showers, sink, etc.

control has a tamper resistant feature for changing the temperature

setting. To change the temperature setting follow these instructions:

1. “Wake Up” the temperature indicators by holding down both

“COOLER” and “HOTTER” temperature adjustment buttons at

the same time for one second, see Figure 19. One or two of the

temperature indicators will light up. These indicators will only remain

on for 30 seconds if no further buttons are pressed.After 30 seconds

the control will go back to “Sleep” mode.

It is recommended that lower water temperatures be used to avoid

the risk of scalding. It is further recommended, in all cases, that the

water temperature be set for the lowest temperature which satisﬁes

your hot water needs. This will also provide the most energy efﬁcient

operation of the water heater.

2. Release both of the temperature adjustment buttons.

a. To decrease the temperature press and release the “COOLER”

button until the desired setting is reached.

b. To increase the temperature press and release the “HOTTER”

button until the desired setting is reached.

NOTE: Holding down the button will not continue to lower or raise the

temperature setting. The button must be pressed and released for

each temperature change desired.

Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, turn off the

manual gas control valve to the appliance.

GAS CONTROL VALVE - FRONT VIEW

HOT WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce

hot water. Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space

heating, clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs

can scald and permanently injure you upon contact. Some people

are more likely to be permanently injured by hot water than others.

These include the elderly, children, the inﬁrm, or physically/mentally

handicapped. If anyone using hot water in your home ﬁts into one of

these groups or if there is a local code or state law requiring a certain

temperature water at the hot water tap, then you must take special

precautions. In addition to using the lowest possible temperature

setting that satisﬁes your hot water needs, a means such as a mixing

valve, should be used at the hot water taps used by these people or

at the water heater. Mixing valves are available at plumbing supply

or hardware stores, see Figure 2. Follow manufacturer’s instructions

for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory setting on

the thermostat see Figure 19.

Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their own

bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person unattended

in a bathtub or shower.

The water heater should be located in an area where the general public

does not have access. If a suitable area is not available, a cover should

be installed over the thermostat to prevent tampering.

Time to Produce

Display

A B C

2nd and 3rd Degree

Burns on Adult Skin

Temperature Setting

The water temperature setting was factory set at the lowest

C-Flashing = approx. 160°F (71°C)

C = approx. 150°F (66°C)

B = approx. 140°F (60°C)

A = approx. 130°F (54°C)

= approx. 120°F (49°C)

About 1/2 seconds

About 1-1/2 seconds

Less than 5 seconds

About 30 seconds

More than 5 minutes

- - - - - - - - - - - - -

temperature; Pressing the “COOLER”

temperature and pressing the “HOTTER”

temperature.

button decreases

button increases the

Setting the water heater temperature at 120°F (49°C) (Approx. “ ” mark

on temperature setting of the gas control valve) will reduce the risks of

scalds. Some states require settings at speciﬁc lower temperatures.

To avoid any unintentional changes in water temperature settings, the

Time to Produce

WARM = approx. 80°F (27°C)

FIGURE 19.

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FOR YOUR INFORMATION

START UP CONDITIONS

STRANGE SOUNDS

Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal parts

during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not necessarily represent

harmful or dangerous conditions.

CONDENSATE

Whenever the water heater is ﬁlled with cold water, some condensate

will form while the burner is on.Awater heater may appear to be leaking

when in fact the water is condensate. This usually happens when:

Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area

during heating and cooling periods and should be considered normal.

See “Condensate” in this section.

a. A new water heater is ﬁlled with cold water for the ﬁrst time.

b. Burning gas produces water vapor in water heaters, particularly

high efﬁciency models where ﬂue temperatures are lower.

c. Large amounts of hot water are used in a short time and the reﬁll

water in the tank is very cold.

OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS

SMELLY WATER

Moisture from the products of combustion condense on the cooler

tank surfaces and form drops of water which may fall onto the burner

or other hot surfaces to produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise.

In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod (see parts

section) for corrosion protection of the tank. Certain water conditions

will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The most common

complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a “rotten egg smell”

in the hot water. The smell is a result of four factors which must all be

present for the odor to develop:

Because of the suddenness and amount of water, condensate water

may be diagnosed as a “tank leak”. After the water in the tank warms

up (about 1-2 hours), the condition should disappear.

a. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.

b. Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.

c. Asulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the water

heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).

d. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by the

corrosion protective action of the anode.

Do not assume the water heater is leaking until there has been enough

time for the water in the tank to warm up.

An undersized water heater will cause more condensation. The water

heater must be sized properly to meet the family’s demands for hot

water including dishwashers, washing machines and shower heads.

Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water heater

models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active material,

and then chlorinating the water heater tank and all water lines.

Contact the local water heater supplier or service agency for further

information concerning anAnode Replacement Kit and this chlorination

treatment.

Excessive condensate may be noticed during the winter and early

spring months when incoming water temperatures are at their

lowest.

Good venting is essential for a gas ﬁred water heater to operate

properly as well as to carry away products of combustion and water

vapor.

If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and chlorination

treatment, we can only suggest that chlorination or aeration of the

water supply be considered to eliminate the water problem.

SMOKE/ODOR

It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and odor

during the initial start-up. This is due to burning off of oil from metal

parts, and will disappear in a short while.

Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By doing

so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.

THERMAL EXPANSION

“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS

CLOSED WATER SYSTEMS

Water supply systems may, because of code requirements or such

conditions as high line pressure, among others, have installed devices

such as pressure reducing valves, check valves, and back ﬂow preventers.

Devices such as these cause the water system to be a closed system.

HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water

system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally

two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely ﬂammable and

explosive. To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions, we

recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be opened for

several minutes before any electrical appliances which are connected

to the hot water system are used (such as a dishwasher or washing

machine). If hydrogen gas is present, there will probably be an unusual

sound similar to air escaping through the pipe as the hot water faucet

is opened. There must be no smoking or open ﬂame near the faucet

at the time it is open.