OWNERS OPERATION MANUAL
WARNING
FOR YOUR SAFETY - READ BEFORE OPERATING
Warning: If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or explosion may result, causing
property damage, personal injury or loss of life.
WARNING
Improper installation, adjustment, alteration, service or maintenance may cause property damage, personal injury or
death. Installation and service must be performed by a qualified technician or service agency.
Models:
MiniMax Plus HP 400 (XLS400)
MiniMax Plus HP 600 (XLS600)
MiniMax Plus HP 800 (XLS800)
MiniMax Plus HP 1000 (XLS1000)
MiniMax Plus HP 230 (CP12)
Part #471949 Revision #A
© 2001 HydroTemp Manufacturing Co., Inc.
Note: Specifications may change without notice.
Owners Operational Information Only
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WARNING
THE MISUSE OF THIS PRODUCT CAN RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY, DEATH,
OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. BE ADVISED OF THE FOLLOWING CONDI-
TIONS THAT MAY EXIST:
1. ELECTROCUTION AND/OR FIRE DUE TO IMPROPER WIRING.
2. HAND AND HAIR ENTRAPMENT MAY OCCUR NEAR THE FAN LO-
CATED ON THE TOP OF THIS UNIT.
3. LOSS OF POOL WATER AND/OR FLOODING AND/OR PROPERTY DAM-
AGE.
4. DAMAGE AND/OR MISUSE TO THE PRODUCT RESULTING IN FAILURE
OR EXCESSIVE WEAR.
5. ALL ELECTRICAL WORK BY LICENSED PROFESSIONAL ONLY.
Owners/users should contact the factory service department for advice at:
HYDROTEMP MANUFACTURING CO., INC.
12155 Metro Pkwy, Ste. 5
RETURN ON INVESTMENT
Ft Myers, FL 33912
(941) 768-1555
The costs of installing a heat pump are somewhat higher
(941) 768-2856 (fax)
than a gas heater but you will save enough in opera-
tional costs to offset the difference, probably in the first
year or two. After a few heating seasons you will have
saved enough, compared to LP gas heat, to pay for the
entire heat pump and installation
.
LONGER SWIMMING SEASON
HEAT PUMP EFFICIENCY
Your new highly efficient heat pump pool/spa heater
will deliver warm pool water for your comfort for pen-
nies a day. For every dollar you spend to run your heat
A heat pump is the least expensive way to heat your
pump, you will receive between $4.00 and $5.00 worth
pool. It will out perform solar by delivering heat on
of heat in return. The heat pump transfers the heat from
demand, no matter how much sunshine is available. A
the outside air to your pool or spa. Your heat pump
solar system with a gas back L.P. Gas back up will cost
costs about 60 to 75 percent less than L.P. Gas heaters
more to operate than the heat pump alone.
to operate with less maintenance and gas storage tank
In Florida, a heat pump offers a full 12 months of swim-
is not needed. Your heat pump produces no pollution
ming season compared to a solar systems 10 month
and no pilot lights to deal with.
swimming season. A heat pump will provide higher
temperatures than a solar system. Solar will not heat a
spa on demand after sundown & during inclement
weather.
Approximate
Cost Per 100,000 Btu's of Heat
$1.65
$2.34
$1.10
Oil
LOW MAINTENANCE
$ 0.96
$ 0.32
Maintenance cost can be more for a gas heater, consid-
ering the fact that a gas heater starts to lose efficiency
as it gets older. The heat pump's sealed system needs
far less attention.
LP Gas
Electric
Natural Heat
Gas Pump
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SPECIAL FEATURES
Separate Air Handling / Electric Compartment
An internal electrical compartment substantially reduces
future service from moisture and salt laden air flow.
Quiet
Sturdy Rust Proof
Fiberglass Top
Non Fading
High Volume
Fan With
Vinyl Coated
Guard
Large Aluminum & Copper
Product
Name Plate
Lanced Fin
Evaporator Air Coil and
Coil Guard
Chemical
Warning Label
Automatic Diagnostics With
L.E.D. Display & Electronic
Thermostat
Sturdy Elevated
Fiberglass
Rust Proof
Bottom Provides
Proper Drainage
Optional Pool/Spa Wiring
Easy Connect
2 Inch Plumbing With
Access Holes
"Internal Automatic Bypass"
Up To 90 GPM
TRANE®
COMPRESSOR
with 410-A, the safe
and clean refrigerant.
And
SCROLL
COMPRESSOR
Sup e r Quie t & Highly Effic ie nt Com p re ssor De sig n
4
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DESIGN ADVANTAGES
The electrical panel has
an isolated compartment,
located within the me-
chanical compartment to
prevent corrosion there.
The heat from the com-
pressor located just below
the electrical compart-
ment helps eliminate mois-
ture as well. This exclu-
sive design will substan-
tially extend the life cycle
of the heater. The fiber-
glass cabinet is corrosion
proof and is much stron-
ger than plastic cabinets.
4250
Heat Exchanger
Internal Automatic Bypass
Special Cupronickel Alloy
Encased In A Block of Foam
to Prevent Heat Loss & Corrosion
Free Flow 2" Plumbing
Automatically adjusts the water flow.
Lowest water flow restriction available.
L.E.D. Status Lights
Self
Internal
Automatic
Bypass
Diagnostic Indicators
(On selected models)
WARNING
The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes, or in the
absence of local codes, with the latest national electrical codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. All wiring
must comply with all local codes, or in the absence of local codes, with the latest national electri-
cal codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. For proper wire and/or breaker size, please refer to specification
sheet and your local licensed electrician. Always bond heat pump cabinet to pool steel and
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DUAL THERMOSTAT CONTROL PANEL
L.E.D. Status Lights
( See page 7 for details.)
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat dial is just like any other,
when you set it at a certain setting the
heater will heat up to that temperature
and then shut off. When the pool/spa wa-
ter temperature drops below this setting
the heater will come on and start heating
the water back up to the setting on the
thermostat.
You will notice there are no number set-
tings printed on the dial face. There is a
certain procedure to follow to determine
the exact temperature you have the ther-
mostat set at. This is described further
on next pages.
The maximum setting for a thermostat is
104 degrees F. You will only be able to
reach this high temperature in a spa ap-
plication. Pool temperatures are nor-
mally between 78 and 82 degrees F. Ac-
tual pool temperatures are determined by
your installer, when the unit is sized to
your specifications. The lowest setting
on the thermostat is around 60 degrees F.
To disable the heater, turn the thermo-
stat dial all the way to the left. If you
live in a climate where the water tem-
perature may drop below 60 degrees F
you must shut the circuit breaker off.
Otherwise do not use the breaker as an
on/off switch.
DUAL Thermostat
L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL
See "Start up Procedures" regarding
compressor preheating if the main power
breaker is shut off. The compressor must
be preheated for 8 hours after the power
supply has been disconnected.
The indicator lights will help you determine that the unit is running
normally or if there is a condition that may keep the heater from
running. Note that the spa light is inactive on single thermostat
units. See next page for details on reading the status lights.
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L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL
Control Ready "Green": The green control ready indicator light lets you know that the heater has power and it
is ready to heat. This light must be on before the heater can run. If this light is off, check you power supply and
circuit breakers. If this light is off, none of the others will light either.
CAUTION
The unit may still have "live voltage" when the control light is off.
NOTE: The bottom four indicator lights work in sequence from left to right.
(To use indicator lights see
troubleshooting guide pages 26 & 27)
POOL MODE "Yellow": The yellow pool mode in-
dicator light lets you know that you have selected the
pool mode with the pool /spa select switch, (dual ther-
mostat control only). This light will be off when the
control is in spa mode.
SPA MODE "Orange": The orange spa mode indicator light tells you that you have selected the spa mode
with the pool spa select switch, (dual thermostat control only). This light will be inactive when used with the
standard single thermostat control (pool only).WATER PRESS. OK "Green": The green water pressure OK
indicator light tells you that the internal water pressure switch is OK. The internal water pressure switch is used
to shut the heater on and off with the circulation pump. The heater should not run when the water pump is not
pumping water through the heater. Dirty filters and lint traps will cause low water flow to the heater and may
cause the water pressure switch to deactivate the heater. If this light stays off, clean all filters and check all
filter system valving to insure proper water flow. See pages 12, 13 and 20, for more information regarding
water flow requirements. When this water flow indicator light is off the t-stat light and the low and high press.
lights will not come on either and the heater will stay off.
T-STAT ON "Green": The green thermostat on indicator light is used to let you know that the thermostat is set
higher than the pool or spa water temperature. If the light is not on, turn the thermostat to a higher position and the
fan should then start, (compressor starts after a 5 minute delay). If the thermostat is already all the way up and the
light is still off, means that the pool or spa water temperature has reached the maximum of 104˚F + or - allowed.
When this light goes off, the heater has heated the pool or spa to the preset temperature. When this light is off the
heater and the low and high pressure lights will stay off.
LOW PRESS. OK "Green": The green low pressure indicator light is designed to let you know that the low side
refrigerant pressure is OK. If the refrigerant pressure was too low for the unit to operate this light the heater will
shut off. The heater is charged with Freon™ (refrigerant). If the outside air temperature drops below 40 degrees
the refrigerant pressure will drop below the required operational range. The internal low refrigerant pressure
switch will act as a defrost control to keep the unit from forming ice on the outer evaporator coil when this light is
off. It may also indicate that the unit may have a refrigerant leak as well. When this light is off the high pressure
light and the heater will be off as well.
HIGH PRESS. OK "Green": The green high pressure OK indicator light is used to tell you that the heater is
operating at the correct high side refrigerant pressure range. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the maximum
needed for proper operation, this light and the heater will shut off. Excessive high refrigerant pressure is usually
caused by low water flow through the heater. If this light goes out, clean the filtering system and check all
plumbing valves to insure proper water flow then try to restart the heater. See pages 8,18 and 19 for information
regarding water flow. When this light is off the heater will not run.
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START UP PROCEDURES
WATER FLOW & EXISTING WATER PUMP
TURN T-STAT ALL THE WAY DOWN
Make sure the thermostat dial is turned all the way to
the “LEFT” so the unit will not start until you are ready.
Then turn the circuit breaker on.
To filter the pool water each day, the water pump will
come on & off according to the existing timer device.
The heater will only heat if there is water running through
it.
COMPRESSOR TIME DELAY
BE AWARE THERE IS A 5 TO 7 MINUTE TIME DE-
LAY BEFORE THE COMPRESSOR WILL START
ONCE THE UNIT IS TURNED ON OR WHENEVER
IT RESTARTS. All models.
ADVISE YOUR POOL SERVICE CO.
If you have a regular pool service on a weekly basis
make sure your owners manual available for them to
inspect. You may request that one be sent to them, by
calling the factory service department at (941) 768-1555.
Be sure that they are aware of the chemical balance and
chemical introduction rules, in this manual. The condi-
tions in this manual must be followed in accordance with
the warranty, if for any reason, the heater is improperly
installed and or operated, the manufacturers warranty
may be void.
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH
If there is proper water flow through the unit
the water pressure switch will close allowing
the unit to run. When the circulation pump
timer stops the water flow, the water pressure
switch will shut the unit down. When the pump
restarts for the next day, the pressure switch
will close and allow the heater to run.
Water
Pressure
Switch
CLEAN FILTERING SYSTEM
Location
Next, make sure that the pool filter is as clean as pos-
sible. A dirty filter will hamper the efficiency of the
unit and cause the unit to cycle on and off resulting in
damaging effects. Filters may look clean but can be
clogged with oils or minerals. Replacement is suggested
every year and a half for cartridge type filters. See manu-
facturers directions for proper filter cleaning methods.
Filter & Trap Locations
Next clean the lint trap basket inside the circulation
pump. Then clean the skimmer leaf trap basket of all
debris. A clogged lint trap or skimmer basket will
restrict the water flow to the unit. Make sure there is
adequate water in the pool so that the skimmer does not
draw air. Never place any chemicals of any type, espe-
cially chlorine, in the skimmer.
If you are unfamiliar with your pool filtering system,
you should consult your local pool company. The dia-
gram shown above are not of any specific brand but are
common in nature. The following diagram is of a typi-
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OPERATIONAL SEQUENCE
EVAPORATOR AIR COIL
The fan circulates the warmer out-
side air through the evaporator air
coil to collect any available heat. The
cooler Freon™ absorbs this heat
causing it to evaporate into a gas.
Therefore the compressor can com-
press the gas to maximize the gain
THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS
Turning up the thermostat will start the
unit running. When the pool water has
been heated to the thermostat setting, the
unit will shut off. When the pool water
temperature loses one to two degrees,
the thermostat will activate the unit.
There are no temperature graduate num-
bers printed on the thermostat face. To
obtain an exact temperature, turn the t-stat
all the way up and then place a pool type
thermometer in the pool water itself. Once
the water has reached your target tempera-
ture on the thermometer, turn the thermo-
stat knob backwards until the heater just
shuts off. Make a mental note of knob in-
dicator. Therefore your thermostat will be
set at the thermometer reading.
heat from the air. The fan discharges
cooler air when the compressor is running. Process is
reversed in Heat & Cool models while in cooling mode.
COMPRESSOR
Once the fan is running, the compressor will start 5 to
7 minutes later, it's controlled by a time delay device.
The compressor pumps and compresses re-
frigerant gas. When refrigerant gas is com-
pressed it intensifies the heat before it is
release to the pool water. This compressed
hot gas is pumped through the heat ex-
changer where it delivers heat to the pool
water passing through the same heat ex-
changer.
THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS FOR
HEAT & COOL MODELS
For heating modes on these models,
make sure toggle is selected to heat and
follow the previous instructions above.
For cooling mode make sure toggle is
selected to cool. Turning down the ther-
mostat counter clockwise will start the
unit running. When the pool water has
HEAT EXCHANGER
The compressed hot refrigerant releases it's heat to the
pool water inside the heat exchanger. The exchanger is
a tube within a tube construction, water passing through
the inner tube, hot gas passing
through the outer tube. The refriger-
ant is transformed into a liquid state
as it exits the heat exchanger. There-
fore it is also referred to
as a condenser coil. (Heat & Cool Models,
process is reverse). The exchanger is en-
cased inside a block of closed cell foam to
prevent heat loss and corrosion.
been cooled to the thermostat setting,
the unit will shut off. When the pool
water temperature rises one to two degrees, the thermo-
stat will activate the unit. There are no temperature gradu-
ate numbers printed on the thermostat face. To obtain an
exact temperature, turn the t-stat all the way down and
then place a pool type thermometer in the pool water it-
self. Once the water has reached your target temperature
on the thermometer, turn the thermostat knob forwards
until the heater just shuts off. Therefore your thermostat
will be set at the thermometer reading.
See the cross section.
SYSTEM OVERVIEW
The heat pump system Warm Water
Cool Water
In
Out
uses 410-A refrigerant to
transfer the heat from the
outside air to the pool
FAN-AIR CIRCULATION
Once the t-stat is activated the
fan will begin to turn. To ab-
sorb heat energy, the fan circu-
lates warmer air through the
evaporator coil at about 4000
cubic feet per minute. The fan
runs independently from the
compressor. The compressor
will start within 5 to 7 minutes
water.
Cool Air Out
Plumbing Bypass
Manifold
Hot Gas
Warm
Air
In
Freon™
Heat
Compressor
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TIME CLOCK SETTING
Read your particular timer manufacturers instructions
to identify the one you have. Do not attempt to adjust
the timer unless you have read these instructions.
Now that all the filters are clean and the pump is run-
ning with a full prime, you will need to set the pool
circulation pump timer. Set the filter pump time clock
for a long enough period of time to heat the pool or spa.
The heater will not operate unless there is water run-
ning through the heat exchanger supplied by the circu-
lation pump. Therefore, your pool will only heat dur-
ing the period set on the timer. When setting the timer,
be sure that you shut off the pool circulation pump cir-
cuit breaker. Then follow the timer manufacturers in-
structions to prevent electrical shock. Consult your
dealer first.
COMMON MECHANICAL TIMER
ON Tripper Peg
24 Hour Clock Face
INITIAL HEAT UP TIME (HEATERS)
You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24
hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-
ture. Once the pool is up to your desired temperature
you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18 hours
per day during the hottest part of the day. Heat up time
and operational time will vary with pool size, exposure
and weather conditions. Spas will require considerably
less time to reach temperature, usually in a matter of
hours if a cover is used.
Time of Day
ON/OFF
OFF Tripper Peg
Indicator
Switch
NORMAL RUNNING TIME
The heat pump system extracts the heat from the out-
side air and delivers it to your pool. Therefore it pro-
duces more BTU's (heat) the warmer it is outside. So
take advantage of the higher air temperatures during
the day by setting the timer for the warmest hours. Win-
ter operation (during cold fronts) may require longer
run times up to 16 hours daily.
INITIAL COOL DOWN TIME
(HEAT & COOL MODELS)
You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24
hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-
ture. Once the pool is down to your desired tempera-
ture you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18
hours per day during the coldest part of the day. Cool
down time and operational time will vary with pool size,
exposure and weather conditions.
SET THERMOSTAT TO MAXIMUM
Turn the thermostat dial all the way to the right. You
will turn the thermostat back to a lower position later,
as described on the next page. The fan should now be
turning.
ADJUSTING THE TIMER
Timer styles vary, read the manufacturers instructions
before attempting to reset timer. Make sure the plastic
guard is in place. On this type of timer, note the On
and OFF trippers located on the clock face. If you
loosen the lock screw on the tripper you can move it to
a new time. Make sure the time of day is correct.
To run the 24 hours needed for the initial heat up, just
remove the "OFF" tripper. When the pool reaches tem-
perature, replace the tripper and set timer to run the water
pump during the hottest part of the day.
There is a compressor start time delay and generally it
will not start for about 5 to 7 minutes. Cooler air will
come from the fan when the compressor is running.
Become familiar with the compressor sound and remem-
ber the compressor time delay.
Scroll compressors may not start on the first try. Allow
Scroll type compressors several starts and time delay
cycles before the compressor starts. This condition is
most common to new compressors or when starting
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THERMOSTAT SETTING
There are no temperature reading numbers printed on the thermostat dial due to calibration changes from unit to
unit. The demand for exact temperatures should be regulated by using a high quality thermometer right in the pool
water. Normal temperatures for pools are 78 to 82 degrees F. Spa temperatures are 98 to a maximum of 104
degrees F.
You should place a high quality "tie on type" or a "floating type" thermom-
eter directly in the pool or spa water, so you can determine what tempera-
ture that is suitable to you. Check the pool temperature occasionally during
the heat up time until it has reached the temperature you desire.
Then go to the heater and turn thermostat counter clockwise, to the left,
away from warmer, SLOWLY until the unit just shuts off. Therefore, the
thermostat will be set exactly at the current temperature shown on your
floating thermometer. Make a mark on the thermostat dial so you know the
approximate setting that you desire.
50˚F
Min.
104˚F
Max.
+ or - 1.5˚F
Thermometer
If the pool temperature on the thermometer reads 80 degrees F, and
you turn the thermostat to the "left" until the heater shuts off, the
thermostat will now be set at 80 degrees F.
Now the heater will come on each day when the circulation pump starts, then it will bring the pool up to that set
temperature. The pool will lose some heat overnight but will come back up to temperature with minimal delay. If
you have a pool and spa combination, you can set the spa thermostat the same way once you are in the spa heating
mode. When adjusting the thermostat, remember that it will take some time for the water temperature to reach a
higher setting. The cooler the outside air, the longer heat up time needed.
CAUTION
MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT BACK FROM THE HIGHEST POSITION SET DURING
THE START UP PROCEDURE OR THE POOL MAY GET TOO WARM. BE SURE TO RESET THE CIRCU-
LATION PUMP TIMER FOR 6 TO 18 HOURS PER DAY OR AS NEEDED, ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF
YOUR POOL AND WEATHER CONDITIONS. COLDER CLIMATES WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME.
LARGER POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. EXPOSED POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. WIN-
TER TIME OPERATION WILL REQUIRE MORE OPERATIONAL TIME EACH DAY.
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UNDERSTANDING HEAT LOSS
It is important to understand how your pool loses heat. The greatest heat loss occurs at the water surface. You will
need to adjust the operational time to compensate for added heat loss during the colder months. See the diagram
on the next page. There are four types of heat loss to be concerned with:
Evaporation accounts for the greatest amount of heat loss. As the water changes from a liquid to a vapor it
requires heat taken from the pool. You are usually heating the pool when temperatures and humidity are low. The
temperature difference between the pool and outside air increase the evaporation rate. Windy conditions will
accelerate evaporation heat loss.
Convection is simply the loss of heat due to the cooler outside air moving across the waters surface. Heat moves
from hot to cold only, so the warmer pool heat transfers to the moving cooler air. Windy conditions will acceler-
ates heat loss. Pools and spas located on or nearby open area such as the ocean, lakes, fields or golf courses will
experience increased wind speeds therefore heat loss will be greater for these conditions. Evaporation and Con-
vection account for as much or more than 82% of the total heat loss.
Conduction is the transfer of heat from the warm pool through the pool or spa shell to the surrounding cooler
earth. Conduction only accounts for 5 % or less of the total heat loss. If you live in an area where the ground water
surrounds the pool shell and plumbing, this type of heat loss will be greater.
Reradiation is the transfer for heat from the warm pool to the cooler sky. Reradiation heat loss will be at it's
greatest on clear nights. Cloud cover will reduce this type of heat loss.
.
EVAPORATION
RERADIATION
CONVECTION
WIND
Pool Surface
CONDUCTION
Warm Pool
Water
Pool Shell
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CONTROLLING HEAT LOSS
TYPICAL POOL BLANKET & ROLLER
A good way to control heat loss is to slow the wind
speed through your pool area by placing plants such as
shrubs or bushes around the pool's perimeter. Plants
will break up the air flow and diffuse the wind speed.
If the pool area is to be fenced in, choose a wood shadow
box type design.
Using a pool cover can be somewhat cumbersome but
they are worth the trouble in regards to the great cost
savings. Covers are sometimes referred to as blankets
or solar blankets.
WARNING
A solid type fence or wall does not act as a good wind
break. They tend to create a wind spoil (vortex) across
the water surface increasing air turbulence and heat loss.
Pools located in windy areas such as water front, golf
courses or open fields will experience greater heat loss.
NEVER SWIM WITH POOL COVER ON. Swim-
mers can tangle easily in the pool cover and subse-
quently may result in drowning. See manufacturer's
Safety Precautions before using.
SPAS HEATING TIPS
It is strongly suggested that you use a cover during the
initial heat up time. This will save time as well as elec-
trical costs.
When heating a spa make sure that there are no air
bubbles coming from the air blower or hydrotherapy
air inlets. The air bubbles will dissipate the heat into
the air and prolong the heating time.
Electric air blowers inject cooler outside air into the
spa and will lower the temperature. You can shorten the
heating time of your spa by shutting off any air injec-
tion devices until the spa is up to the desired tempera-
ture.
COVERS SAVE TIME & MONEY
As discussed on the previous page, the greatest heat loss
is at the water surface. The very best way to reduce
heat loss (and operational cost), is to cover the pool or
spa.
If you have any health problems, high blood pressure
etc., consult a doctor before using a hot water spa. You
should get out of the spa and cool off every fifteen min-
utes. Do not consume alcoholic beverages while using
the spa. To prevent drowning, do not use the cover while
in the spa.
Covering the pool or spa during the initial heat up time
will help the pool get to the desired temperature much
faster. If properly used, a cover can lower your total
operating costs as much as 50%. Covers reduce evapo-
ration, thus you will save on pool chemicals and fill
water usage as well.
13
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OWNERS MAINTENANCE & CARE
There are some considerations that should be taken concerning the environment where your heater is installed.
The heater is usually placed near the pool filtering system. There are certain things in this area you will need to be
aware of to insure long life and prevent unnecessary damage.
SPRINKLERS
Make sure there are absolutely no sprinkler heads near the heater that will in any way spray on or into the heater.
Sprinkler damage is not covered under the warranty agreement.
Make sure that they are a sufficient distance away so that normal winds
will not carry the mist to the heater. If your filtering system area has
plants that need water, use a trickle type irrigation sprinkler instead of
the broadcast type.
The heater is designed to handle the wettest weather conditions that are
typical of rain and humidity, etc. Sprinkler heads force high pressure
water into the unit from the side at an odd angle. Most sprinkler sys-
tems are connected to a well system. Most well water is high in miner-
als, sulphur and other aggressive contaminates. These contaminates
will leave a build up on the evaporator coils and electronics causing
corrosion and hamper the efficiency. If you are located within 15 miles
of the coast, salt may be in the well water also.
PLANTS
Plants in the installation area should be kept trimmed away to the proper clearances shown
here. Plants too close to the heater will restrict the air flow into the unit from the side as
well as air flow through the top. Plants also bring extra moisture and insects that may get
inside the unit. There should be enough clearance to easily service and adjust the heater.
CAUTION
Chemicals should NOT be stored near the heater. The fan may draw corrosive chemical vapor
through the unit causing damage. Do NOT store anything on top, underneath or around the heater.
You will need access to the disconnect breakers in the event of an emergency.
CONDENSATION DRAINS
The unit will produce a condensation of water that will drain from the unit at a steady rate. This condensation is
from the humidity in the outside air. The more humidity, the more condensation the unit will produce. There are
several drain ports in the bottom of the unit, make sure they do not become clogged with debris. This condensation
will attract weeds and insects, make sure that the water drains properly and plants are kept trimmed. (Heat and
Cool Models) In the cooling mode this unit will produce no condensation.
The air handling compartment below the fan should be cleaned and vacuumed to remove debris that may clog the
condensation drains at the bottom of the heater. Accumulated debris will clog the condensation drains causing the
water to pool in the bottom of the heater. Accumulated condensation water will cause corrosion to the heaters
components.
14
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AIR FLOW
Do not install the unit in an area where the cooler discharge air may accumulate and be drawn back into the unit.
Provide ventilation through containment walls or fencing for the air intake if needed. Do not install this unit
indoors or in filtering system equipment rooms. Do not restrict the air flow in any way.
ROOF RUN OFF
To prevent large amounts of rain water from running through the unit you may need to install a gutter and down
spout when the roof has a sharp pitch. IMPORTANT: Do not allow roof run off water to rush through the
unit. Do not install the unit under roof valleys, where two roof sections meet. The two roof sections channel water
to the valley and will allow massive amounts of water to run through the unit at high velocity.
CLEANING
To clean the heater, you should take a sponge and mild soapy water and wipe the surfaces clean. Do not use a
pressurized garden hose to clean the heater. Never force water into the unit from any direction. You may use a
garden hose at low pressure with no nozzle attachment. Clean the evaporator coils at least twice a year. If you live
near the sea coast you will need to clean at least four times a year to remove salt and sand. Use a very soft brush
with soap and gently remove any build up. Clogged evaporator coils will reduce the efficiency of the unit and
cause corrosion. Use a fin comb to straighten any minor indentations in the evaporator coils
Do not a llow roof
run-off to flow into
the unit.
Evaporator
Slab
Coils
WATER PIPING LEAK ?
When the unit operates, it will produce condensation that will drain from the bottom of the unit. Do not mistake
condensation with a water piping leak. There is a certain procedure to follow to check the unit for leaks: Shut the
heat pump and filtering system off. Allow all the condensation to drain from the unit for at least an hour or so.
Then start the circulation pump only, leave the heater off. If the unit is still leaking water steadily, you may have
a water piping leak. The unit should not condensate when the heater is off. Consult your dealer.
15
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FILTER SYSTEM MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
WATER FLOW
FILTER CLEANING & CARE
Proper water flow is critical to the heaters performance
and longevity. The maintenance of your filtering sys-
tem is directly related to the proper operation of the
heat pump. See pages 8 for other information regarding
filter cleaning and the start up procedures.
Your filter system should be cleaned at least twice a
month. See manufacturer's directions for proper filter
cleaning methods. Size and conditions may require you
to clean the filter more often. A filter is considered
"dirty", whenever it restricts the flow rate by 10% or
more.
CIRCULATION PUMP
You can use the pressure gauge on the filter tank to de-
termine a restriction in the filter due to clogging. After
the filter has been replaced or when it is new, you should
record the actual operating pressure with a "clean fil-
ter". When the pressure increases more than 5 p.s.i.,
the filter should be cleaned. If the pressure does not
return to normal you must replace it. Make sure your
pressure gauge is kept in good working condition.
The circulation pump must be kept in good working
order to provide a steady rate of flow to the heater and
filtering system as a whole. The circulation pump must
be producing a flow rate in accordance with the manu-
facturers specifications within 10%. The pump should
run with a "full prime" without excessive restriction on
the vacuum and pressure side of the filtering system.
Locking Nut &
PSI
O-Ring
Gauge
Discharge Outlet
"Pressure"
Pump Lid
r Bleed
Valve
Electric
Motor
"Suction"
Inlet
O-Ring
Typical
Cartridge
Filter
Element
Lint Trap
Impeller
Housing
Typical Circulation Pump
Filter Tank
VACUUM & PRESSURE LEAKS
All vacuum and pressure leaks in the filtering system
must be eliminated immediately after occurring. Air
allowed into the filter system from the vacuum side of
the circulation pump will cause premature wear and
physical erosion to the heat exchanger and water pip-
ing inside the heater. Air turbulence will cause the wa-
ter pressure switch to malfunction.
let
In
There are some after market filter element cleaning so-
lutions that will help remove oil and minerals that may
clog the filter. Oil and minerals can not be removed
with normal cleaning and back-washing. Spas are par-
ticularly susceptible to oil build up in the filter. Do not
acid wash a filter until you have removed all oil and
grease with a solution designed to remove such. Acid
washing a filter with oil in it will cause that oil to be-
come permanently embedded in the fibers. Cartridge
filter element replacement is suggested every 1 to 2
years. Sand filters should have the sand replaced every
3 to 5 years. D.E. type filter elements should be re-
moved and soaked in a solution at least every two years.
Pressure leaks on the filtering system will allow the sys-
tem to lose vacuum and cause the water in the filter and
piping to back siphon or reverse flow through the sys-
tem when the circulation pump is off. Reverse flow
may cause the water pressure switch to malfunction.
CHLORINATORS
See chlorinator placement and chemical use guide-
lines.
16
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AUTOMATIC POOL VACUUMS
CAUTION
Automatic pool cleaners will decrease the water flow
by restricting the suction of the circulation pump. Most
automatic type pool cleaners operate from the suction
provided by the circulation pump.
When manually vacuuming the pool or performing ser-
vice to the filtering system, "shut the heater off !"
When the vacuum hose is plugged in, it may cause the
pump to loose prime due to the air in the hose. You
may also need to restrict the main drain suction port to
gain more vacuum to the vacuum hose and head. This
will lower the overall flow through the unit and cause it
to cycle on & off, possibly causing damage. Shut the
heater off whenever there is a chance of restricted wa-
ter flow or loss of prime.
Some automatic pool vacuums are plugged into the
skimmer suction port. The main floor drain is then re-
stricted some, so that the auto vac has enough vacuum
to operate. It can then move freely and not become
stuck to the main drain port.
Typical
Automatic
Pool Cleaner
PROFESSIONAL SERVICE
As part of routine maintenance you should schedule a
licensed air conditioning contractor or the factory ser-
vice department to check the refrigeration circuit and
components of the heat pump against factory specifica-
tions. An improper adjustment or diagnosis by others
may limit your warranty. You can call the factory ser-
vice department for a list of factory authorized service
centers in your area. Have all the refrigeration compo-
nents checked against the factory specifications. You
can request this information from the factory service
department.
Often times, when these auto vacuums begin to wear,
they require more suction from the pump to operate.
Diverting all vacuum through the auto vac may help it
run better but will restrict the overall water flow through
the entire system and the heater.
Verify correct installation according to the owners and
installation manuals. Verify water flow through the heat
exchanger and filtering system. Check all chlorinator
placement and pool water balance. Test the supply volt-
age, amperage draw, wire size against factory specifi-
cations and local codes. Test the operating refrigerant
pressures and corresponding components to factory
specifications. Adjust refrigerant according to the sub
cooling reading and factory specification.
If you have a low water flow situation where the heater
is not getting enough water through the condenser coil,
remove the pool vac and open all skimmer and main
floor drain vacuum valves to provide maximum flow.
The auto vac manufacturer has a special valve that plugs
into the skimmer before the auto vac hose. These spe-
cial valves will properly regulate the water flow through
the auto vac without creating too much vacuum restric-
tion on the skimmer suction port.
Clean and flush the evaporator coils to remove debris,
salt and mineral build up at least twice a year. Clean
more often if you live in a costal and or sandy environ-
ment. Clean them with a mild soap and a very soft
brush. Do not use a pressurized garden hose. The air
handling compartment below the fan must be cleaned
of debris regularly. Contact an air conditioning con-
tractor for proper methods of cleaning the evaporator
coils. Remember to make sure the irrigation sprinkler
system does not spray on the unit!
The hose connecting the auto vac to the skimmer should
be checked for the presence of suction leaks that allow
air into the system. (See damage caused by vacuum
leaks previously). As the auto vac hose gets older and
sun damaged, it may develop an air vacuum leak or
known as a "suction leak".
In all cases, you should do what ever necessary to gain
the proper water flow through the heat exchanger. Once
the pool vac is working, make sure you have the proper
water flow through the heater at all times. If the low
flow created by an auto vac is causing a problem with
the unit, it is not considered a warranty condition.
The fan motor should be oiled when the unit is serviced
otherwise once per year or more if needed. Coastal in-
stallation should oil the fan motor 4 times per year or
more depending on exposure.
17
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PLUMBING & WATER FLOW
PLUMBING CONNECTIONS
Filtered Water “IN” on the LEFT front.
Heated Water "OUT" on the RIGHT front.
The plumbing inlets are "slip" p.v.c. pipe that will accept
a 2 inch p.v.c. glue fitting. The pipe is left plain so you
can adapt to your needs. Use p.v.c. cleaner to prime the
fitting and pipe. Use a quality medium body p.v.c. glue.
FOR PUMPS UP TO 2 H.P. OR 90 G.P.M. MAX.
SEE PAGE 19 FOR LARGER WATER PUMPS.
WATER IN
WATER
OUT
Warning
No Chemicals In
Skimmer !!
Heater
Filter
1. PUMP
2. FILTER
3. HEATER
Water
Pump
4. LOOP & CHECK
5. CHLORINATOR
6. RETURN TO POOL
Chlorinator or
Chemical Feeder
Chlorinator Loop & 2 lb. Chem.
Resistant Check Valve
WARNING
See mandatory chlorinator placement
and install of the loop & check valve.
INTERNAL AUTOMATIC BYPASS
The heat pump in equipped with
a internal "Automatic Bypass"
valve. A variable rate spring
valve is used to regulate the wa-
ter flow through the heat ex-
changer. Steady flow will be de-
livered over a wide range of flow
rates. This automatic valve can
handle a maximum flow rate of
90 gallons per minute.
Free Flow
Flexible
Water Inlets
Marine Grade
Cupronickel
Heat Exchanger
Encased in
Closed Cell Foam
The automatic valve will com-
pensate for flow loss due to nor-
mal filter debris accumulation or
changes if flow due to valving
and other conditions.
Special
Compression Fitting
See chlorinator
placement guidelines.
IN
Sacrificial Chemical Protec-
tion Piping
Automatic Bypass Valve
Variable Rate Self Adjusting
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HIGH RATE WATER PUMPS
EXCESSIVE FLOW BYPASS MANIFOLD FOR LARGE
2 H.P. PUMPS OR OVER 90 G.P.M.
If the pool circulation pump is over 2 HP OR if the total
flow exceeds 90 GPM you will have to add the "excessive
flow valve" as shown here. Do not install a bypass valve
that will completely shut off flow to the heater, see shut-
down procedures.
Some larger water pumps may be restricted if the pipe size is
not adequate therefore reducing its overall flow rate. When
determining if you need an excessive bypass valve, one has to
consider the hydraulic restriction of the filter, valving, amount
of 90˚ fittings and the distance of pipe to the pool in the exist-
ing filtering system. If you have a 2 HP water pump that does
not exceed 90 G.P.M. considering the above, you may not need
the excessive bypass. Excessive water flow can damage the
heat exchanger. SPECIAL NOTE: See chlorinator place-
ment instructions at the bottom of this page.
"Excessive Flow Valve Manifold"
Do not valve in a manner that will totally
isolate heater from water flow see page 25.
Place plumbing so
access panel can
2" p.v.c. "T"
be opened
CAUTION
BE SURE THE BYPASS VALVE IS
Bypass Pipe Size:
1.5" or 2" pipe @ 2 H.P.
2" pipe @ 3 +.H.P
2" p.v.c. "T"
Ball Valve
POSITIONED TO ALLOW REMOVAL
OF THE FRONT ACCESS PANEL!
@ 45 Deg.
Position the valve so that the access panel can be
easily removed, always check before final glu-
ing. Angle the valve out 45˚ to provide adequate
clearance. You may use a 2-way valve or other
type if desired. "Do not" use a brass gate valve
or a 3-way valve for bypass !
2 H.P Pumps
Close Bypass 50%
3 H.P. Pumps
Close Bypass 25%
All others must be set by flow meter.
See Commercial Plumbing Diagram
CAUTION
Exercise care when installing chemical feeders so as not to allow
back siphoning of chemicals into the heater, filters or pump.
LOOP ABOVE
2 LB
CHEMICAL
8"
The chemical resistant check valve and loop must be in-
stalled with all types of chlorinators to prevent chlorine
migration to the heater. The loop should extend at least 8
inches above the chlorinator top. The chemical resistant check
valve should be placed on the pipe leading "up" to the chlo-
rinator. Therefore, the weight of the water above the check
valve will hold it closed even if the spring is weak or dam-
aged. Mount it as low as possible. Be sure to keep the chlo-
rinator, pump and filter lid o-rings lubricated with silicone
grease to insure a good seal. If it looses its seal, it will allow
the chlorine to migrate to the heater when the system shuts
RESISTANT
CHECK VALVE
Part# 888-018
CHLORI-
NATOR
FROM
HEATER
TO
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WATER BALANCE MAINTENANCE
The chemical balance of your pool/spa water and the methods used in adding pool chemicals will directly effect
the life of your heater. Like no other precaution you could take, it is very important that these guidelines are
followed in order to prevent damage to the heat exchanger/water coil and possibly the entire system.
Improperly maintained water balance and incorrect introduction of pool chemicals will cause extreme corrosion to
the heat exchanger. If this condition goes unnoticed, it will eventually damage the compressor and evaporator coil.
The heat exchanger in your unit is made of the highest quality cupronickel metal alloy. This makes the heat
exchanger as chemical resistant as possible. The heat exchanger will withstand what is considered normal pool
water balance. Unfortunately, chemical damage is usually diagnosed after the unit has failed because the corrosive
pool/spa water attacks the metal from the inside out.
WARNING
Chemical damage to the unit and / or heat exchanger in any way is not covered under the warranty agreement.
The following are water balance specifications that are considered standard pool and spa water testing values and
quality. These water balance values are the industry standard in which professional pool contractors follow. Make
sure your pool water is tested and balanced on a weekly basis or more if required. Spas will need extra attention.
See your local pool dealer for help in properly balancing the water chemistry.
STANDARD POOL WATER
BALANCE REQUIREMENTS
Ph................................7.4 to 7.8
Chlorine/Bromine.......1 to 5 ppm
Total Alkalinity...........90 to 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness......250 to 400 ppm
ADVANCED HEAT EXCHANGER DESIGN
SACRIFICIAL WATER FITTINGS
This diagram is a cross section of the heat exchanger. The seam-
Note: The internal 90˚ elbows show in this diagram are de-
less tube within another tube design transfers heat very efficiently.
The inner water tube is made of thicker resilient cupronickel metal
alloy to help resist corrosive pool water. The outer heavy gauge
Freon™ tube is dipped in a special weather proofing material.
Then to insulate from heat loss and help prevent exterior corro-
sion the heat exchanger is encased in a block of special closed cell
foam.
signed as a sacrificial fittings to protect the very expensive cu-
pronickel alloy heat exchanger.
Alloy Heat
Exchanger
Heat Exchanger Cross Section
Closed Cell Insulation Foam
Sacrificial
Water Fittings
Hot
Refrigerant
Passage
These fittings may develop a leak if the pool water balance gets
very acetic or very over chlorinated. If there were no sacrificial
fittings, chemical damage could cause a "breach" from the water
passage to the refrigerant passage. If a" breach" occurs in the
heat exchanger, chlorinated water would be pumped into the re-
frigerant system thus making the heater non-repairable! The sac-
rificial fittings act as an early warning indicator to the user that
the pool water balance is not correct, chemicals are being fed im-
properly (through the skimmer) or the flow rate has been exceeded.
The sacrificial fittings alert the user before "it's too late"
Water Passage
Cupronickel
20
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These chemical outlines should not be considered as a
“how to” balance your pool/spa water, but just a refer-
ence on how chemical balance effects the heater and gives
suggested test values. You should always consult a pool
professional and follow all chemical manufacturers di-
rections, unless they conflict with this manual.
The pH level in your pool should be maintained within
the range of 7.4 to 7.8. A pH test will tell you how
acetic or how alkaline the pool water is. For example,
acetic like orange juice or alkaline like milk. A 7.6 pH
is considered the middle of the road. Lower than 7.6
means that the water has an acetic tendency. Higher
than 7.6 indicates that the water has alkaline tendency.
CHLORINE
Chlorine levels should remain within a range from 1
p.p.m. to a maximum of 5 p.p.m. (p.p.m.=parts per mil-
lion). Excessive chlorine saturation of the pool water will
cause corrosive damage to the heat exchanger.
pH Below 7.4 Will...
A lower (acetic) pH reading will cause corrosion to the
heat exchanger. Prolonged exposure to low pH and / or
high chlorine will damage the heat exchanger. The
lower the pH the more aggressive the chlorine is and
the quicker the damage takes place. The metal is oxi-
dized and deteriorates.
Chlorines Effect on pH
Review the diagram on the previous page. Some tablets,
granular and gas forms of chlorine have an acetic nature
to start with and may lower the pH of the water when
introduced (see diagram on previous page). Be sure that
the pH remains between 7.4 and 7.8 after adding chlo-
rine. If these types of chlorine are introduced into the
system in the wrong place, you can run full strength chlo-
rine through the heat exchanger before it has a chance to
mix with the rest of the pool water. See the next section
on chemical usage and chlorinator placement.
Piping Leaks & Stains
An early indicator of low pH and / or high chlorine
would be if a leak were discovered in the piping lead-
ing to the heat exchanger. The copper in the piping will
dissolve into a solution and mix with the pool water.
This dissolved metal will show back up as a blue-green
colored stain on the masonry materials in your pool.
The commonly used, white plaster (Marcite) finishes
will stain from the metal in the water quite easily.
Shock Treatments
A shock treatment is a large dose of chlorine added to the
pool water all at once to reduce the amount of combined
(contaminated) chlorine in the water or to kill algae. Make
sure you do not over shock treat, calculate the exact
amount of chlorine needed. When “shock treating” the
pool make sure that the pH levels remain at the prescribed
levels after the chlorine is introduced. Do not add any
more chlorine to the water until the chlorine levels have
dropped to normal. Prolonged high chlorine levels will
cause damage to the heat exchanger. The combination of
high chlorine and low pH (acetic) will deteriorate the heat
exchanger at an accelerated rate. Do not add shock treat-
ment or chlorine tablets in the skimmer.
Although there will have already been some chemical
damage. You can make corrections immediately to pro-
tect the very expensive cupronickel heat exchanger.
Follow the chemical guidelines in order to prevent such
damage from occurring. Do not wait until you see the
metal stains or piping leaks.
pH Above 7.8 Will...
If your pool water is extremely high in pH (alkaline),
you may get a mineral build up in the heat exchanger
and piping. Restriction from build up will restrict the
water flow to the heater. This condition is very rare
except where mineral content is high in the tap water
used for the pool.
Read and follow the chemical manufacturers directions
when adding chemicals unless they conflict with this book-
let. Contact your dealer or the factory service department
for advice.
21
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TOTAL ALKALINITY
CALCIUM HARDNESS
Total Alkalinity is a test given to determine the over-
all mineral content of the water. Total alkalinity lev-
els should be within the range from 90 p.p.m. to 120
p.p.m. The total alkalinity is described as a buffer
against acetic conditions and acts as a stabilizer for the
pH. It keeps the pH from fluctuating up and down.
A low alkalinity will allow the pH to fluctuate, usually
to the acetic side. A high alkalinity may cloud the wa-
ter. The pH of your water will change when it is used
after rain, from dirt and debris and many other natural
conditions. The proper total alkalinity will prevent
those changes from being drastic. Test for total alka-
linity on a weekly basis.
Calcium Hardness levels should remain within the
range from 250 p.p.m. to 400 p.p.m. Calcium hardness
is a test that determines the saturation levels of calcium
and magnesium salts in the water. This tells you in lay-
man terms how “hard” the water is. Please refer to your
pool builders instructions concerning calcium hardness
and how it effects your particular pool surfacing mate-
rial.
POOL CHEMICAL & CHLORINATOR USE
When you are adding pool chemicals as part of your regular maintenance there are several rules of thumb to
follow. Where you add the chemicals are just as important as how much you add. This section will discuss the
“do’s and don’ts" of where you add chemicals or where chlorinators are placed.
PROTECT HEAT EXCHANGER
You want to prevent any chemicals from running
VACUUM LEAKS
Suction leaks that allow air into the system when the
through the piping and heat exchanger of the unit. Chlo-
pump is running will cause damage to the heat ex-
rine solution will damage the heat exchanger. Some
changer. Suction leaks are what cause the system to
chlorinating devices inject chlorine solution through the
back siphon or reverse flow. Make sure that all the o-
suction side of the filtering system, thus the chlorine
ring seals in the pump lid, filter and chlorinator are in
passes through the heat exchanger at full strength be-
fore it has a chance to mix and dilute with the rest of the
pool water. Also note: The overall chemical balance of
the pool water will directly effect the life of the heat
exchanger.
good condition and are lubricated with silicone grease.
If your filter repeatedly has excessive air inside it when
you open, air the bleed valve, you may have a vacuum
leak. Vacuum leaks that allow an accumulation of air in
the filter and will cause the system to lose prime when
the pump is off and allow reverse flow. Reverse flow
may allow chlorine solution to migrate to the heat ex-
changer.
CHLORINE MIGRATION
Some chlorinating devices will back siphon when the
system is shut off, therefore allowing the chlorine solu-
tion to migrate through the heat exchanger causing dam-
age. You have to make sure your filtering system does
not have a vacuum leak that would allow the system to
lose prime. When this happens, water will move back-
wards through the chlorinator thus moving the chlorine
solution into the heat exchanger. Note: Chlorine solu-
tion is heavier than water and will migrate through the
plumbing even if there is no vacuum leak.
Vacuum leaks will cause premature wear to the heat ex-
changer. The air allowed into the system causes turbu-
lence in the heat exchanger. The result is physical ero-
sion to the metal alloy water channel.
Note: Chlorine solution is heavier than water and
will migrate through the plumbing even if there is
no vacuum leak.
22
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CHLORINATOR PLACEMENT
ADDING CHEMICALS
1. All chlorinators should have a chemical resistant
check valve and a loop plumbed at least 8 inches above
the chlorinator, between it and the heater, as far down
line from the heater as possible.
CAUTION
Absolutely no chemicals in the skimmer !
Do not place any chemicals in the skimmer throat.
Chlorine tablets placed in the skimmer will allow a
concentrated solution of chlorine to pass through the
heat exchanger causing damage.
2. Never plumb a chlorinator into the suction side of
the circulation pump. All automatic chemical feeders
should be as far down line of the heaters water flow as
possible.
7. Do not place any chemicals in the pump lint trap cav-
ity or filter. Make sure the lint trap basket is placed
properly to prevent debris from clogging the heat ex-
changer.
3. Off line type chlorinators should be tapped into the
plumbing only as shown on the diagram. See pool/spa
combinations requiring special placement. See plumb-
ing diagram.
8. Do not over load chlorinator feeder cavity. Exces-
sive amounts of chlorine tablets will increase the chance
of migration of acetic, concentrated chlorine to migrate
to the heat exchanger causing damage. 25% of maxi-
mum is suggested.
4. Never install a chlorinator at a higher elevation than
the lowest heater piping even if a loop check valve is
used. Doing so may allow chlorine to migrate to the
heat exchanger, causing damage.
9. When adding gas chlorine make sure that the pH does
not drop below 7.4. Make sure that the total alkalinity
does not drop below 90 p.p.m. Gas chlorine is very ace-
tic.
5. Do not allow floating chlorinators to be drawn up to
the skimmer inlet.
6. Keep the chlorinator lid o-ring lubricated with sili-
cone grease. Replace when needed.
10. Do not isolate the heater from the water flow unless
you have installed a drain plug to drain all the water
from the heat exchanger and then blow out with pres-
surized air. Stagnant water will corrode the heat ex-
changer and piping.
No chemicals or chlorine
tablets in the skimmer !!!
Chemical Loop
8" Above
Chlorinator
2lb Chemical Resistant
Check Valve
In Line Type
Chlorinator
Off Line Type
Chlorinator
See plumbing & water flow and high rate water pumps for more information.
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COMMERCIAL FEEDERS
We strongly suggest that all chemical feeders be placed "down line" of the heater. In a "closely monitored"
commercial pool situation where a vacuum type filter system is used in conjunction with a surge tank, there are
some exceptions to chemical injection. Some liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) feeders and liquid muriatic
acid feeders will inject their solutions into the surge tank on the suction side of the unit. You may inject diluted
liquid chlorine and muriatic acid as long as each are diluted with 75 % water in the supply tank. The feeders must
be adjusted to a slow enough rate to prevent the water in the surge tank from dropping below 7.6 pH and or
chlorine levels above 5 p.p.m. You can test the surge tank water while the feeders and circulation pump is running
just as you would the pool water. Then adjust the solution or rate of feed accordingly. The circulation pump
usually moves the water through the surge tank rapidly enough to keep chemical concentrations down. Never
place chlorine tablets in the surge tank.
CAUTION
Never allow a tablet type chlorinator to inject solution into the surge tank, under any circumstances.
Also note: Electric type feeders must be electrically relayed to the circulation pump, so the feeders will shut
off when the pump does.
CHEMICAL APPLICATION FOR SPAS
Spas require some special attention due to their small water volume and high heat compared to a normal swim-
ming pool. A spas water balance fluctuates more rapidly than a pool. The following are suggestions that we feel
will prolong the life of the heat exchanger used for a spa heater.
1. Test the water frequently to prevent drastic fluctuations in pH and sanitizer levels especially after usage. Keep
total alkalinity at 100 p.p.m. to 120 p.p.m.
2. Spas react quickly to chemicals when added. Use small amounts and retest the water until you reach the desired
chemical values.
3. Some chlorine tablets are very acetic and will lower the pH of the spa water as the solution is fed. Make sure the
spa water does not drop below 7.4 pH, see page 20 and 21 for more information.
4. Bromine has a more neutral pH value and works well in spa water if pH is maintained at 7.8-8.0. It is a form of
chlorine widely used for spas. Do not install a brominator on the suction side of the filtering system.
WARNING
Working with muriatic acid can be dangerous. When cleaning elements always
wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Add acid to water, do not add water to
acid. Splashing or spilling acid can cause severe personal injury and/or property
damage.
5. Using muriatic acid right from the bottle at the same strength as packaged may drastically lower the pH
uncontrollably. There are some dry powdered forms of acid that work better for spas and are somewhat milder and
are easier to handle.
6. All the same rules of chemical application and chlorinator placement that apply in the previous chemical section
also apply to spas. Always consult a professional pool builder or service and follow the chemical manufacturers
directions.
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SHUT DOWN & FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES
When shutting the unit down for the end of the swimming season you must consider some items to protect the unit
from inclement weather. It is best in most situations to shut the unit off by turning the thermostat all the way
down, to the "left". Leave power ,(circuit breaker), to the unit “on” unless the pool or spa water temperature
drops below 50 degrees F. If you shut off the main power supply due to freezing conditions, be sure to preheat
the compressor for 8 hours before attempting to start the heater.
SHORT TERM FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES
When the outside air temperature is forecast to drop below 32 degrees F for a short time:
You should set the circulation pump timer to run 24 hours per day in order to circulate water through the unit and
filtration system. Standing water inside the unit will freeze and damage the units heat exchanger and refrigerant
system.
Shut the heat pump off and do not try to heat the pool during freezing temperatures. If the unit is left running it
may ice up and the compressor will stop running. The defrost control inside the unit will shut the compressor off
but allow the fan to run. The fan will circulate air through the unit to help defrost the evaporator air coil. If you
know that the temperatures are going to be below 36 degrees F, you should eliminate the possibility of icing and
just shut the unit off. Do not use the circuit breaker as the “on”/“off” switch, but keep the water pump running.
LONG TERM FREEZE PROTECTION / DRAIN VALVE INSTALLATION
If you live in a climate that has a seasonal swim season due to winter, you should follow these
long term freezing precautions.
Spigot Type
Drain Valves
If you live in an area that experiences freezing tempera-
tures, the heat exchanger/water coil and bypass plumbing
must have all water removed to prevent damage to the heat
OUT
pump system. This procedure should be done prior to the
first freeze along with your other pool winterizing routine.
When you drain the filter system and piping you should in-
clude the heat pump as well.
IN
There should be two spigot type drains plumbed into the
Shut Off
heaters water in and water out piping. Place these valves as
close to the heater and at the lowest point possible so as
much water will drain as possible. Install two shut off valves
on the water in and out lines as shown here. The rest of the
water should be blown out with pressurized air to insure all
water is removed. A antifreeze designed for pool equipment
may be used, see a local pool professional.
Valves
Shut the water pump off. Close both shut off
valves. Open both drains and allow water to
exit. Use pressurized air on the water in spigot
only, to force the rest of the water out the other
spigot.
CAUTION
CAUTION
You may shut the circuit breaker off for the season as
long as you remember to preheat the compressor next
season before start up see start up procedures.
Do not add isolation valves unless you
intend to clear the heat exchanger of water
with pressurized air. Stagnate water left in
the heat exchanger can cause corrosion.
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OWNER TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
WARNING
Risk of electrical shock or electrocution.
Improper installation will create an electrical hazard which could result in death or serious injury to pool users,
installers, or others due to electrical shock, and may also cause damage to property.
Do NOT attempt any internal adjustments inside the heater.
1. Keep your hands and hair clear of the fan blades to avoid injury.
2. If you are not familiar with your pool filtering system and heater:
a. Do not attempt to adjust or service without consulting your dealer, professional pool or air conditioning
contractor.
b. Read the entire Owner and Installation Manual before attempting to use, service
or adjust the heater or pool filtering system.
CONDITION
POSSIBLE CAUSE
No power supply to heater. Tripped breaker or Reset breaker. Replace fuse. Call dealer for
blown fuse. Control failure. advise. Call factory for advise.
POSSIBLE REMEDY
All control lights off.
Unit will not start.
Control Ready light ON.
Water Press. OK light OFF.
T-Stat On light OFF.
Low & High Press. lights OFF.
Unit will not start.
Low water flow through heater. Dirty or worn Clean entire filtering system and or replace
filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-
impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings. ler. Adjust plumbing valves. Repair suc-
Suction leak allowing air into the water flow. tion air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Re-
Internal water pressure switch failure.
place filter. Replace water pressure switch.
Control Ready light ON.
Water Press. OK light ON.
T-Stat On light OFF.
Low & High Press. lights OFF.
Unit will not start.
Thermostat is not set higher than the pool/spa Turn the thermostat up to the "right" more.
water temperature. The water temperature has Use a high quality thermometer to test the
reached the maximum setting. The thermostat water temperature. Maximum water tem-
is malfunctioning. (Dual thermostat), the pool perature is 104˚F + or - 3˚F. Call your dealer
spa select switch is not in the correct mode.
for advise. Call the factory for advise.
Control Ready light ON.
Water Press. OK light ON.
T-Stat On light ON.
Low Press. light OFF.
High Press. light OFF.
Unit will not start.
Outside air temperature below operating range Do not try to operate the heater when the
of 40˚F., unit is in "defrost" mode. Discharge outside air temperature drops below 36˚F
air flow is restricted. Discharge air is accumu- and 45˚F with very high humidity or high
lating and being drawn back through the outer wind speed. Make sure heater is installed
air coil. The fan is obstructed, low air flow. with the required placement clearances for
Large amounts of roof run off water restricting air flow and roof clearance. Do not install
fan blade rotation. Sprinklers spraying on the indoors. Make sure that your sprinklers do
outer air coil during cooler temperatures. Outer not spray on the heater in any way what so
OR
Unit is forming ice or frost on the air coil clogged with debris. Plants too close to ever. If ice forms on the outer coil, shut the
outer air coil, usually at the bottom. heater, blocking air flow. Low refrigerant pres- heater off and allow ice to thaw. You may
sure caused by a Freon™ leak. Possible mal- use water at low pressure to thaw ice build
functioning of the internal low refrigerant pres- up on the outer coil, shut the heater off when
sure switch.
doing so. Call the factory for advice.
Control Ready light ON.
Water Press. OK light ON.
T-Stat On light ON.
Low Press. light ON.
High Press. light OFF.
Unit will not start.
Low or restricted water flow through heater. Clean entire filtering system and or replace
Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps. filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-
Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb- ler. Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair
ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air suction air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring.
into the water flow. Low water flow when Replace filter. Wrong filter pump pipe size.
switched to spa mode. Unit is plumbed back- Automatic pool vacuum causing restriction.
wards. Heat exchanger clogged with debris. Thermostat not shutting unit off at 104˚F.
Internal bypass valve damaged or clogged with Call your dealer for advise. Call the fac-
debris. Water temperature exceeding 104˚F tory for advise.
maximum. Refrigerant system malfunction.
Control Ready light ON.
Unit is cycling on & off.
Low or restricted water flow through heater. Clean entire filtering system and or replace
Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps. filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-
Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb- ler. Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair
ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air suction air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring.
into the water flow. Low water flow when Replace filter. Wrong filter pump pipe size.
switched to spa mode. Unit is plumbed back- Automatic pool vacuum causing restriction.
wards. Heat exchanger clogged with debris. Call your dealer for advise. Call the fac-
Internal bypass valve damaged or clogged with tory for advise.
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Control Ready light ON.
Water Press. OK light ON
T-Stat On light ON
Low water flow through heater. Dirty or worn
filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump
impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings.
Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-
ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.
Adjust plumbing valves. Call the factory for
advice.
Fan is not turning.
Unit will not start.
All control lights ON
Fan is turning, no cool air dis- through heater. Dirty or worn filters or clogged
charging out the top of heater.
Unit is not heating.
Compressor has not started yet. Low water flow
Wait for the 90 second compressor time delay.
Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-
ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.
Adjust plumbing valves. Call factory or dealer.
lint traps. Clogged filter pump impeller. Im-
proper plumbing valve settings.
Spa will not heat to maximum
temperature of 104˚F + or - 3˚.
Thermostat is turned all the way
up.
Low or restricted water flow through heater. Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-
Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps. ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.
Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb- Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air
ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Shut off air
into the water flow. Low water flow when blower and or Venturi inlets that allow air tur-
switched to spa mode or the control is not in bulence in the spa. Use a cover while heating
spa mode. Unit is plumbed backwards. Heat the spa. Outside air temp. too cold. Set spa
exchanger clogged with debris. Internal bypass pump timer for longer time. Call your dealer
valve damaged or clogged with debris. Your spa for advise. Call the factory for advice.
thermometer is not reading the correct tempera-
OR
Spa is heating very slowly.
ture. Air blower is running. Venturi air inlets
are open. It is very cold outside. Spa pump is
not running.
Pool is heating very slowly.
Low or restricted water flow through heater. Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-
Pool is not getting up to tempera- Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps. ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.
ture.
Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb- Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air
ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Use a pool cover.
into the water flow. It is cold outside. Pool pump Place a wind break around pool. Set pool pump
timer is not set for a long enough running pe- timer longer. Call your dealer for advise. Call
riod. Pool is not covered. High wind speed the factory for advice.
over pool. Shaded pool area.
For dual thermostat units:
Unit is in pool mode but spa is
on, or unit is in spa mode but
pool is on.
The optional motorized plumbing valves are out Use the motor valve actuator switches so the
of synchronization with the dual thermostat con- valves go to the mode selected on the dual ther-
trol. The motor valves are not turning. The mostat pool/spa select switch. Grease motor
manual pool/spa valves have not been turned valves. Adjust manual valves correctly. Adjust
correctly. A third party external control device third party control device. Possible defective
is overriding the dual control. Motor valves have motor valve. Call your installer for advise. Call
a tendency to rotate after a power outage and the factory for advise.
then they are out of sync.
Compressor will not start. Fan
comes on, compressor time de-
lay passes, compressor attempts
to star but unit shuts all the way
off ( and or circuit breaker trips).
Restricted water flow through heater. Dirty or Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-
filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.
impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings. Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air
Suction leak allowing air into the water flow. leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Replace filter.
Low water flow when switched to spa mode. Have a licensed electrician check the power sup-
Compressor was not preheated properly.
ply voltage and wire size. Call your installer
for advise. Call the factory for advise.
Water running from the bottom
of the heater when it is running.
The heater produces water condensation when Shut the heater off for several hours but leave
it operates. The water will trickle from the drain the pool water pump running. Allow enough
holes designed in the bottom of the heater. The time for all the normal condensation to evapo-
higher the humidity the more water condensa- rate. If the heater continues to trickle water af-
tion the heater will produce. This is similar to ter that time, when it is not running, you may
the effect that a glass of ice water has when it have a pool water leak. You can test this water
sweats. Corrosive pool water, chemical damage for chlorine to confirm. Make sure your chlori-
to water tubing inside heater. Chlorinator is not nator has a check valve and loop installed be-
OR
The heater seems to have a wa-
ter leak.
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ELECTRICAL WIRING SPECIFICATIONS
WARNING
The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes, or in the
absence of local codes, with the latest national electrical codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. All wiring
must comply with all local codes, or in the absence of local codes, with the latest national electri-
cal codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. For proper wire and/or breaker size, please refer to specification
sheet and your local licensed electrician.
Unit has 3/4” knockout on left side of unit.
A pool water pump bond wire lug is in the same location.
The wire path from the knockout to the main contactor is about 3 feet.
Line side of the main contactor will be on the top.
The model number is located on a silver label on the front of the unit.
UNIT IDENTIFICATION
MANDATORY BONDING TO POOL STEEL
External
(This is in addition to electrical ground)
Bond Wire Lug
Make sure that the unit cabinet is bonded to the pool steel.
#8 Solid
Copper
Most codes require that the circulation pump be bonded
as well. You can connect at that point using at least a #6
Circulation
gauge or larger solid copper wire. Use the external bond
lug on the cabinet to insure a good bond.
Pump
Bonding the unit to the pool steel will help reduce the
chance of electrolysis, also know as electrical corrosion.
A heater left un-bonded may experience corrosion to the
To Pool Steel
metal water tubing inside the heater.
CAUTION
IN SOME CASES WE HAVE SPECIFIED “BETTER” THAN N.E.C. CODE THEREFORE, THE
MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATION “BECOMES” THE CODE FOR THAT PARTICULAR UNIT.
NOTE: TECHNICIANS SEE SEPARATE INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR EXACT DETAILS.
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HOW TO GET SERVICE
When you experience trouble with your unit, you should follow these simple procedures before requesting service
on your pool/spa heat pump.
1. You should follow all start up procedures as described in this booklet. Without exception you should clean the
filtering system thoroughly, consult the manufacturers directions for proper filter cleaning methods. You must
eliminate any water flow or filtering system problems. Check all electrical service, breakers and switches.
2. Inform your dealer that the unit is having trouble and you would like them to check the unit for any obvious non
warranty problems, including but not limited to: installation specifications, water flow and filtration problems,
bypass adjustment, timers and control devices or any field installed options that may effect normal operation of the
heat pump.
3. Make sure the filtering system and any control devices are properly adjusted and corrected before you request
service from the factory. These listed items and others like them are not considered factory defects. If the factory
authorized warranty service is sent to the site and no factory defects are found or there is a problem not associated
with the unit as it was manufactured, the pool owner will be liable for all charges. Water flow adjustments, filter
cleaning, and control devices, etc. that effect the heater or damage caused by such equipment is not covered under
the warranty agreement. The pool owner is responsible for the correct adjustment and maintenance of the filtering
system.
4. If the dealer is unavailable to help you, the factory service manager will assist you or your pool service over the
phone. The service manager will give suggestions on how to check the filtering system and other obvious prob-
lems. You may save yourself the cost of a service call and learn more about your pool heat pump if you take the
time to seek advise before requesting the factory service crew. Literature can be sent to you directly that will help
you understand the heat pump system.
5. Once you have made contact with the dealer or the factory service department make sure that you can be present
when the heater is serviced. The authorized factory service centers will require the pool owner or dealer be
present.
Required Information:
Heat Pump Service Department
12155 Metro Pkwy, Ste. 5
Ft. Myers Florida 33912
941-768-1555
Serial #
Model # ____________,
Install Date ___ / ___ /___
Dealer Name ______________________
941-768-2856 Fax
The actual receipt or canceled check may be needed to verify installation date and proof of ownership.
Any service request resulting in a repair or adjustment not considered a factory defect with the heater as it
was manufactured will be the responsibility of the heater owner and therefore billed directly to the owner.
Always read and follow the owners manual and then seek advice from your dealer and / or the installer.
BE ADVISED THERE ARE SEPARATE INSTALLATION, SERVICE & ACCESSORY MANUALS.
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GLOSSARY OF TERMS
A/C Contractor: A company licensed by the state and local au-
Broadcast Type Sprinklers: Part of an irrigation system used to
water plants or grass where the water is sprayed into the air and
distributed directional.
thorities to perform heating ventilation and air-conditioning in-
stallation or repair including pool heat pumps. Allow no others to
repair this unit.
Bypass: Used in the water piping to allow the control of water
flow through the heater at a prescribed rate, thus the rest of the
water flow not needed is diverted through the bypass
Acetic: Describing pool/spa water that is aggressive in nature with
a Ph value below 7.6. Like acid, orange juice, vinegar etc.
Accumulator: a containment housing in the Freon circuit that col-
lects liquid forms freon that does not evaporate after passing through
the evaporator coil, thus protecting the compressor from damage.
Calcium Hardness: The amount of calcium and magnesium con-
tent in pool/spa water calculated by using a test kit for such pur-
poses.
Calcium Hypochlorite: A form of chlorine in a powder form and
rarely in a tablet form used to sanitize pool/spa water. Calcium is
a major component and by-product.
Air Blower: An electronic device that forces air under pressure
through the spa plumbing giving the spa a bubbling effect.
Air Inlet: Used to create bubbling effects for the spa jets. Water
passing through a vortex draws air into the plumbing without the
use of an electronic air blower. Usually controlled by some sort of
knob or lever to shut it on or off.
Cartridge Filter: A pool/ spa water filter that is made of pleated
paper and nylon. Usually round with plastic base and top, placed
into a tank that the water is pumped through trapping debris and
dirt. Usually removed and cleaned with a high pressure garden
hose.
Alkaline: Describing pool/spa water that is the opposite of acetic
with a Ph value above 7.6. Base, like milk or chalk etc.
Check Valve: A P.V.C. fitting used on the water piping to prevent
reverse flow through the system and insure proper water direction.
Sometimes used to create back pressure and slow the water veloc-
ity.
Anti Short Cycle Time Delay Device: Keeps the compressor from
being damaged due to the freon gas not being allowed to settle
between cycles, preventing liquid freon from entering the com-
pressor. When the unit stops there will be a certain time delay
before the compressor will start again.
Chemical Values: The numerical reading you get by using a pool/
spa water test kit to calculate levels of pool chemicals and miner-
als in the pool water at any given time.
Automatic Chlorinator: A device that feeds either tablet type or
liquid type chlorine concentration into the plumbing piping and
then delivered to the pool/spa water.
Chemical Damage: Any damage or corrosion from pool chemicals
or any other chemicals used around the heat pump or pool. Usu-
ally concentrated chlorine or acetic water corroding the copper
piping or the heat exchanger or other equipment.
Authorized Factory Service: An A/C Contractor factory trained
and under contract with the manufacturer to provide repair ser-
vice.
Chemical Resistant Check Valve: A check valve placed between
the heater and a chlorinator to prevent the migration of concen-
trated chlorine into the heater.
Back-Siphon: In regards to pool filtering systems where the water
flow reverses through the system when the circulation pump shuts
off. This is usually caused by the vacuum created by the water in
the filtering being above the pool level, or breach in the sealed
water plumbing, allowing air into the system. This condition is
sometimes referred to as a suction or vacuum leak.
Chlorinator: A device that is used to feed chlorine to the pool/spa
through the filtering system. Water is pumped through a contain-
ment holding the chlorine. This makes a solution that is then fed to
the pool or spa.
Back Pressure: The pressure created by the circulation pump be-
ing restricted by plumbing, filters, solar panels and other related
equipment. Usually due to a dirty filter, measured by the pressure
gauge in the filter housing
Chlorinator Placement: (Illustrated in this owners manual), show-
ing the proper location and placement of chlorinating devices in
order to prevent chemical damage to the heater.
Chlorine: A common pool/spa water sanitizer available in several
different forms of powder, solid tablets, liquid or gas.
Blanket: A plastic cover several mills thick with trapped air bubbles,
cut to the same size as the pool and floats on top of the water to
provide insulation and prevent heat loss. Some types collect small
amounts of heat from the sun and transfer it to the pool water.
Sometimes referred to as a solar blanket.
Chlorine Tablets: A common form of chlorine that is solid in na-
ture used in a chlorinator that is eroded by water rushing over these
tablets, making a solution to be slowly fed to the pool water.
BTU: British Thermal Units. Measures heat output of a heat pump,
in Btu’s per hour.
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Down Line: A reference that pertains to chlorinator placement and
chemical application meaning, to introduce such, into the water
flow piping, after it passes through the heater, as far away from the
unit as possible.
Circuit Breaker: An automatic switch that will shut the power off
to an electrical device (heater, circulation pump) when an over-
load or short occurs. Located in the electrical supply panel in your
home or near the associated equipment.
Drain Holes: Located in the heater cabinet bottom, that allows the
condensation water produced normally to drain out.
Circulation Pump: An electric water pump that circulates water
through the filter and other pool related equipment. Usually con-
trolled by a timer.
Drain Plug: A type of valve installed on the plumbing near the
heater to allow the heat exchanger to be completely drained of
pool water to prevent freeze damage in such climates.
Condensation: Water that accumulates inside the heater due to the
humidity in the air coming in contact with the colder freon piping
in the evaporator coil. This water will trickle out of the drain ports
on the bottom of the heater. Like sweat on a glass of ice water.
Dry Acid Powder: A dry powder (sodium bisulfate) used to lower
Ph in pool or especially spa water.
Control Devices: Electronic devices used to manipulate the pool/
spa functions and equipment other than those manufactured into
the heater itself. Sometimes by remote control, switches or sen-
sors.
Dual Thermostat: A kit added to the unit to allow for two separate
thermostats to be used for a pool and spa sharing the same heater.
It is also capable of other functions such as motorized valve opera-
tion.
Initial Heat Up Time: The time required to heat the pool up to the
desired temperature when you turn the unit on for the first time.
When the pool water temperature is at its lowest temperature.
Convection: The transfer of heat from between two mediums, of
different temperatures, in this case from hot to cold, from warm
pool to cooler outside air
Electrocution: To be shocked by electrical current, to have electri-
cal current pass through your body resulting in death or injury.
Elevation: The height of the installed unit, in comparison to the
pool water level.
Compressor: A reciprocating piston in a cylinder, much like a car
engine, that compresses freon gas in a chamber before it is re-
leased to the heat exchanger.
Commercial Pool: A pool for public use or for the use of commu-
nity residents that are governed by state and local codes. Usually
larger than a residential pool with a larger capacity filtering sys-
tem, running at a high rate of water flow.
Evaporation: When referring to heat loss of the pool water, when
the pool water changes from a liquid to a gas then dissipates into
the air, taking heat away with it.
Evaporator Coil: The aluminum and copper air/freon manifold
that is used to change the properties of the Freon as it passes through
it. The warmer air is forced through the fins to produce the reac-
tion due to dissimilar temperatures.
Copper Piping: The piping inside the unit as it was manufactured,
leading up to the heat exchanger.
Corrosion: The dissolving of the metals in the heater due to chemi-
cal action.
Expansion Valve: A control valve that regulates the Freon pressure
to the evaporator coil.
Cover: Used to cover the pool surface and prevent heat loss, re-
ferred to as a blanket.
Fan: Used to move air through the evaporator coil.
Cupronickel Metal Alloy: A special metal blend copper and nickel
that is corrosion resistant.
Fan Blades: The aluminum mechanism that moves the air through
the unit. Located on top of the cabinet. Caution: fan blades can be
sharp and cause injury.
Cycle: Referred to here as, on and off repeatedly, either the fan
and or compressor.
Filter: Use to clean the pool water by pumping water through a
media that collects debris and is cleaned later as part of regular
pool maintenance.
D.E. Filter: A filter type that uses diatomaceous earth powder as a
filter media. The D.E. is discharged with the debris via a valve
that reverses flow through the filter. This is referred to as back-
washing. The D.E. must then be replaced in the filter.
Filter System: The equipment installed to circulate and clean the
pool water usually consisting of an electric water pump on a timer,
a filter containment, flow control valves, and other equipment
needed for that particular pool and/or spa.
Dealer: As authorized by agreement, with the factory to sell and
install this particular brand of heat pump.
Floating Chlorinator: A device that floats on the pool waters sur-
face that feeds chlorine to the water by eroding solid tablet type
chlorine, inside its containment.
Defrost Control: An internal device that will prevent the evapora-
tor coil from getting an ice build up when the outside air tempera-
ture drops below 36 degrees. It will shut the compressor off, but
allow the fan to run until the air temperature increases.
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Floating Thermometer: A thermometer that floats on the water
surface with the main sensing bulb in the water. Indicates the ac-
tual pool or spa temperature it’s floating in. A tie on type will
work the same.
Liquid Chlorine: Chlorine in a liquid form, (sodium hypochlorite).
Long Term Freeze: When the outside air temperature drops below
36 degrees as part of a seasonal weather change lasting for an ex-
tended period of time.
Flow Control Valve: A valve or check valve that controls water
flow either automatically or manually.
Freon™: Trade name for a type of refrigerant. The heat transfer
medium used to transfer the generated heat to the pool water, in
the vapor compression cycle of the heat pump system. Changing
from a gas to a liquid state in cycles.
Marcite: A white plaster type pool wall and surface finishing ma-
terial made of white Portland cement and marble dust.
Migrate: Referring to concentrated chlorine moving through the
filter system plumbing with or without the water flowing.
Full Prime: A reference used to describe a water pump running
normally without air entering into the system, running at full ca-
pacity.
Motorized Plumbing Valves: Valves that are driven by low volt-
age motors mounted on top of such a valve. Usually used to change
from pool to spa mode via a control switch or device without hav-
ing to go to the filter system and turn these valves manually.
Gas Chlorine: Chlorine in a pure state, gas.
Muriatic Acid: A liquid acid that is used to lower the Ph of pool
water. Handle with extreme caution. (Use a dry powder acid for
G.P.M. : Gallons per minute, used to measure flow rate
spas.)
Heat & Cool: The unit, the heater, the appliance referenced in this
manual. A reverse cycle unit capable of both heating and cooling.
Normal Operation: When the heat pump is running as intended by
the manufacturer.
Heat Exchanger: A manifold where the compressed hot freon gas
transfers its heat to the pool water. A tube within a tube. Hot freon
gas passing through one tube and water passing through the other
tube, bent in a coiled fashion. Made from a cupronickel metal
alloy.
Nozzle Attachment: A device attached to the end of a garden hose,
that increases pressure and controls direction.
On/Off Switch: Located on the unit next to the thermostat dial use
to shut the unit off and on, so you do not have to move the thermo-
stat or shut off the circuit breaker to control the unit.
Heat Loss: The act of the pool losing heat due to certain conditions
such as weather, wind, evaporation, radiance, convection etc.
O-Ring: A round rubber gasket that is used for sealing removable
access lids to pool filtering equipment and other related items.
Heat Pump: The unit, the heater, the appliance referenced in this
manual.
Ph: A term used when determining the alkalinity or acetic nature
of water.
Hydro-Therapy Jets: Used in spas to create high pressure water
flow with air turbulence. Water is forced through a restriction that
creates a vortex that draws air into the water flow thus increasing
velocity. This air flow is usually regulated by a manual control.
Pool/Spa Combination: When you have a pool and spa together,
where the two body’s of water are connected by a spill-over or
other plumbing means.
Icing Up: Ice forming on the evaporator coil.
PPM: Parts per million. Use as a term to tell you how much of a
certain chemical ratio is in the water.
In Line Type Chlorinator: A chlorinating device that is mounted
directly on the piping, that has an internal manifold within the
plumbing, used to allow water flow through the containment, where
a solid tablet type chlorine is held. This type requires no water
tubing in and out of the containment.
Pressure Switch: A device inside the heater, that senses water pres-
sure and keeps the unit from running when there is little or no
water flow going through it.
Injection: In regard to feeding pool chemicals into the water flow
in whatever fashion.
Radiant Heat Loss: When the water loses heat through the walls
and floor of the pool shell.
Installer: Same as dealer, person or company where the unit was
purchased.
Return: The term used to indicate water flow direction back to the
pool, after it passes through the filtering system. There are ori-
fices in the pool called return outlets.
Internal Adjustments: Any part or component inside the cabinet of
the unit.
Run Dry: When any pool equipment is running without water,
usually causing some sort of damage.
Lint Trap Basket: A strainer type basket that collects debris and
prevents such from being trapped in other equipment, including
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Serial Number: A twelve digit number on the identification sticker
on the outside of the heater cabinet. Needed for all records, war-
ranty request etc.
Thermostat: Located on the unit itself, used to set the desired tem-
perature you would like the actual pool or spa water to be.
The unit will activate if the water temperature is below the set-
ting. The unit will shut off when the water temperature has reached
that particular setting.
Shadow-Box Fence: A fence that is made to allow air to pass
through it freely without restriction.
Three-Way Valve: A plumbing valve that controls water flow hav-
ing three ports in which to connect plumbing to.
Shock Treatment: Adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine to
the pool water to kill contaminates, algae and to remove combined
chlorine.
Timer: A timing device that activates the water circulation pump
according to preset times.
Short Cycle: The act of the compressor going on and off without
letting the refrigerant gas to settle.
Time Delay: A device inside the heater, that will delay the com-
pressor from running until the refrigerant gas and crank case oil
settle, before allowing the compressor to run, preventing damage
to the compressor..
Short Term Freeze: When the outside air temperature drops below
36 degrees for a short period of time, usually for only a few days
or so, but not part of a normal seasonal change where lower tem-
peratures are expected as a norm.
Trickle Type Sprinkler: An irrigation distributor that does not broad-
cast water into the air but slowly waters the surrounding ground
directly.
Sodium Hypochlorite: A liquid form of chlorine.
Skimmer: A housing mounted at the pool water level in the pool
wall and deck, that is used to capture debris as water is drawn into
it. The water is drawn in by the suction created by the circulation
pump.
Vacuum Type Filter: A filter on the suction side of the circulation
pump usually mounted inside a surge tank. Water is drawn through
the filter media trapping debris.
Variable Rate Flow Control Valve: The "internal" valve used to as
a bypass for the heater water flow. This spring type valve will
automatically adjust the water flow rate to the unit when the flow
rate changes for what ever reason, (30 to 70 G.P.M. range).
Skimmer Basket: The strainer type debris catch, inside the skim-
mer housing that keeps debris from clogging other related equip-
ment.
Skimmer Inlet: The square opening right at the pool water level,
flush with the pool wall.
Water Coil: Same as heat exchanger.
Water Chemical Balance: The standard pool water test and chemi-
cal amounts and values, that the water needs to be considered bal-
anced, according to standard practice.
Skimmer Throat: The main cavity of the skimmer where the skim-
mer basket is located.
Solar Panels: A manifold placed on a roof top, to collect heat from
the sun and transfer it to the pool water being pumped through it.
Spa: a smaller body of water using hotter water temperature and
high pressure water flow mixed with air to create a therapy effect.
Sprinkler Heads: Irrigation water distribution device, placed in ar-
eas of the yard that broadcast water to the surrounding area.
Surge Tank: Part of a filtering system that holds a specific amount
of water to supply the circulation pump. Filter elements are some-
times placed in this tank so when the pump suctions water through
them it cleans the water. This tank is fed pool water through plumb-
ing piped from the pool by gravity.
Temperature Rise/Difference: A calculation used to determine how
many degrees the water passing through the heat exchanger is in-
creased in order to set it at a prescribed difference.
Thermometer: Used to determine the actual pool or spa water tem-
perature. Sometimes a floating type or a tie on type.
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Heat Pumps
Manufactured by:
© 2001 HydroTemp Manufacturing Co., Inc.
941-768-1555
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