I N S T A L L A T I O N
&
O P E R A T I O N G U I D E
M O D E L S
M O D E L S
AT8000
AT8200
IN-WALL LOUDSPEAKERS
®
®
B L E N D I N G H I G H F I D E L I T Y A N D A R C H I T E C T U R E
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Hyperbolic Tri-Laminate Dome
Midrange and Zero-Diffraction
Swiveling Tweeter*
The AT8000’s 1-1/2” midrange driver and
1” tweeter both share a tri-laminate design
consisting of an inner textile layer which
forms the dome, a high damping layer to
kill unwanted resonances, and an outside
layer of urethane to add stiffness and pre-
vent breakup modes.
Introduction
The AT or Advanced Technology group of
In-Wall Loudspeakers are designed to
deliver truly stunning performance with
optimum installation flexibility. All models
in the AT series are constructed using the
highest quality components and utilize
advanced materials technology to create
speakers capable of reproducing both
music and movie soundtracks with stun-
ning realism and sonic impact. They are
perfect anywhere that quality of sound is
the most important consideration.
AT8200
Aluminum/Urethane Composite Woofer
The AT8200’s 8” woofer is constructed of a
composite of aluminum and urethane
which is extremely light, highly efficient,
and offers superior damping characteristics.
An AT8000 Series Speaker Kit;
AT8000 Series Bracket Kit; and an
AT8000 Series Frame/Grille Kit are
required to install one AT8000 Series
In-Wall Loudspeaker in either new
or existing construction.
Hyperbolic Aluminum/Urethane Dome
Midrange and Zero-Diffraction
Swiveling Tweeter*
The AT8200’s 1-1/2” midrange and 1”
tweeter incorporate the same aluminum/
urethane composite used in the construc-
tion of the AT8200’s woofer. The result is a
very natural sounding speaker capable of
reproducing mids and highs with superb
detail and accuracy.
Features and Benefits
High Performance Woofer and
Tweeter Designs
Both the AT8000 and AT8200 incorporate
woofer designs which feature inverted
dust caps, butyl rubber surrounds, and
Niles exclusive BumpBack™ magnet
structure to provide powerful and accu-
rate bass response. Additionally, both
models feature tweeters housed in a zero-
diffraction swiveling enclosure which can
be positioned up to 15 degrees off axis to
deliver optimum clarity regardless of
speaker placement or listening position.
Computer Optimized Crossover with
Acoustical Configuration Controls
The second order Linkwitz-Riley crossover
is computer optimized and constructed of
premium components for unparalleled
sonic performance. The baffle-mounted
Tone Controls provide installers with Bass,
Midrange and Treble adjustment in four
increments (-2dB, Flat, +2dB, +4dB). These
controls can be used to fine tune the speak-
ers performance or to compensate for less
than ideal room acoustics. (For more infor-
mation, see Setting the Tone on page 15.)
AT8000
Interlaced Carbon/Glass Fiber Woofer
The AT8000’s 8” woofer is constructed of
carbon and glass fibers which are not only
lighter and more rigid than polypropy-
lene, but are interlaced in a pattern that
reduces cone breakup and effectively
lowers distortion.
BumpBack™ Woofer Magnet
Niles engineers have utilized a unique mag-
net construction allowing far greater “throw”
or voice coil excursion. This enables Niles
AT loudspeakers to play louder without
mechanical distortion or “bottoming”.
Patent Pending
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1
X-Matrix™ Reinforced Baffle
Three Stage Installation System for
The X-Matrix baffle design uses specially Remodels or New Construction
molded ribs to add rigidity to the baffle You install only the parts you need for a
assembly. The end result is better bass and particular stage of construction. When the
improved midrange detail.
framing and wiring are finished, you install
the bracket. After the drywall is up, but
before the painter begins to paint, you
install the frame and provide the painter
with the aluminum grilles so that they can
be painted to match the surroundings.
Only when construction is completely fin-
ished do you put the valuable speaker in
the wall. You don’t have to mask or prep
the speaker for painting, and worries about
theft during the final phases of construction
are never an issue!
Weather Resistant Construction
The AT8000 and AT8200 loudspeakers fea-
ture drivers which are impervious to mois-
ture; the grille (sold separately as part of the
AT8000 Series Frame and Grille kit) is
made of aluminum, and all exposed hard-
ware is constructed of stainless steel.
Absolutely Flush to the Wall
Appearance
The unique mounting system of the AT
loudspeakers powerfully clamps the frame
to the bracket, sandwiching the wall mate-
rial between them. Because the clamping
action is totally uniform around the frame,
there are no shadows or gaps between the
wall and the frame. Additionally, the Niles
mounting system is carefully optimized to
stiffen the surrounding drywall and prevent
it from resonating. You hear only the
music, not the drywall.
Eight Ohm Impedance
The AT8000 and AT8200 speakers are
designed to be compatible with most
amplifiers. Their eight ohm impedance is
an easy electrical load for most amplifiers
to drive.
Low Diffraction, Paintable
Aluminum Grilles
AT speakers are available with aluminum
grilles. The powder-coated aluminum grille
has hundreds of precisely sized perforations,
creating an acoustically transparent grille.
Easy Retrofit Installation in your
Existing Home
Designed for ease of installation, the Niles
mounting system makes retrofit installa-
tions simple and fast. A supplied template
assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The
bracket slips behind the drywall and the
screws secure the bracket to the frame,
sandwiching the drywall between them.
The speaker baffle attaches to the frame,
and the grille mounts over the speaker.
Infrared Sensor Mount
The speaker baffle has a locator designed for
the Niles MS-1 MicroSensor,™ a miniature
infrared sensor. The MS-1 installs discretely
behind the aluminum grille and therefore
minimizes wall clutter in your home. When
you want to control your equipment, you
simply point your remote control at the
speaker from up to 15 feet away.
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2
Figure 1
Model AT8000 Shown
New Construction Wings
Bracket
Frame
Speaker Baffle
Grille
Installation Considerations
Recommended Amplifier Power
pensible control for true convenience—a
local volume control. It allows you to
adjust the volume of the speakers without
leaving the room.
For satisfactory performance, we recom-
mend an amplifier with a power rating of
twenty to two hundred watts for the
AT8000 and AT8200 speakers. Curiously,
most speakers are not damaged by large
amplifiers but by small amplifiers. If your
system is playing loudly, a small amplifier
will run out of power very quickly. When
an amplifier runs out of power it creates
damaging “clipping” distortion. A large
amplifier will play at the same volume
without distorting. (For more information
about clipping distortion, see the section
on Operation, on page 17.)
Plan to wire the system so that each pair of
speakers has its own volume control built
into the wall (think of a volume control as
a dimmer switch for sound).
Niles makes a wide range of high perfor-
mance indoor and outdoor volume con-
trols. They are available in Standard or
Decora® style faceplates (just like your light
switches and dimmers). Volume controls
are connected in line with the speaker, so
you must connect the wire from the ampli-
fier to the volume control and then from
the volume control to the speaker.
Incorporating a Local Volume Control
In a multi-room system there is one indis-
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3
Speaker Wire
An IR sensor requires that a 2-conductor
shielded wire (West Penn D291 or equiva-
lent) be home run from each sensor loca-
tion to the main equipment location. This
wire is normally run beside the speaker
wire at the same time. Typically, the sensor
is placed in a location that faces your lis-
tening position. Most remote controls will
have an effective line of sight range of 18
to 30 feet with any Niles sensor placed in
a wall, ceiling, on a cabinet or tabletop.
However, when you place a Niles MS-1
MicroSensor behind the perforated alu-
Use 2-conductor speaker wire when con-
necting AT speakers to your receiver or
amplifier. For most applications, we rec-
ommend you use a minimum of 16 or 18
gauge wire. For wiring runs longer than 80
feet we recommend a minimum of 14
gauge wire. The spring loaded binding post
terminals of the AT speakers will accom-
modate up to 8 gauge wire directly.
Banana jack or pin connectors may also be
used to allow the connection of larger size
wires if necessary.
TECH TIP
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American Wire
Gauge) number. The lower the number, the larger
the wire, i.e. twelve AWG is physically larger than
fourteen AWG.
minum grille of a speaker, the sensor’s
effective range is reduced to 9 to 15 feet.
When wire is to be run inside walls, spe-
cial jacketing (CL-2 or CL-3) is required to
both protect the wire and for fire preven-
tion. In some areas conduit is required. For
a trouble-free installation, low voltage wire
such as speaker wire must be run in accor-
dance with the National Electrical Code
and any applicable provisions of the local
building code. If you are unsure of the cor-
rect installation techniques, wire jacket or
type of conduit to use, consult a profes-
sional audio/video installer, your building
contractor, or the local building and
inspection department.
Acoustical Treatment Options
For the best performance from your AT
speakers, acoustically treating the sur-
rounding drywall is suggested. In new con-
struction installations, the most practical
option is to block off the wall cavity both
above and below the area where the
speaker will be installed. This will create a
“backbox” containing a specific volume of
air in which the performance of the
AT8000 and AT8200 speakers will be opti-
mized. When installing the AT speakers in
a standard wall (16” stud spacing with 2x4
studs) the suggested air volume would be
2540 cubic inches or 52” of space
between the top and bottom walls of the
“backbox”. If the speakers are to be
installed in a 2x6 wall, a true backbox may
be constructed using 1/2” or 5/8” thick
Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). The
dimensions of the enclosure may be varied
in terms of height, width, and depth, as
long as the interior volume of the enclosure
remains approximately 2540 cubic inches.
Incorporating a Remote Control
If you are planning to use a stereo system
with a hand held IR remote control, con-
sider the advantages of installing a Niles IR
Repeater system. You are able to control all
of the functions of your system from the
room with the remote pair of speakers.
Niles makes a number of IR sensors which
install in the wall, in the ceiling, in cabi-
netry, on tabletops, or even behind the
grille of your Niles AT speakers.
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4
Although the AT speakers utilize an infinite amount of insulation used for each speak-
baffle design which does not require the er equal, as bass output will be more con-
use of a backbox, critical listeners may sistent. Further improvement can be made
appreciate the tighter bass and extended by wedging a brace of 1x1 stock between
frequency response into the lower octaves the front and rear walls, both above and
that the use of a backbox (or blocking off below the cutout. Use care when inserting
the wall cavity) will provide. A hole cutting the brace, as too much pressure will create
template is provided with the AT8000 a bulge in the wall.
Series Bracket Kit. The cutout for the speak-
er must measure 9-3/4” x 17-1/4”.
Speaker Placement
Insulating the Wall Cavity
When it is not possible to use a backbox,
good results can be achieved by treating
Placement for Critical Listening
If you like to imagine that the band or
the interior of the drywall cavity with
orchestra is playing in front of you as you lis-
Dynamat™ or a similar cabinet damping
ten to music, or you are very conscious of
material. At least two linear feet of damp-
clarity, detail and the textures of the individ-
ing material should be adhered to the rear
ual instruments, you are a critical listener.
wall and to the front wall (one foot above
and one foot below the cutout) of the wall
In a home theater, the intelligibility of dia-
log and action reproduced by the front
cavity. Additionally, insulating the wall
speakers is paramount! The position of the
cavity behind the speaker with fiberglass
speakers plays a very important role in
insulation (e.g., R-19 unbatted insulation)
how clear the sound is and how a stereo
will improve performance. Try to keep the
Speaker
Placement
Zone
10’
5’
10’
Speaker
Placement
Zone
Figure 2
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5
image is created. Here are some guidelines on the speakers performance. (For more
to make the process of placement quick information, see Setting the Tone Controls
and easy.
on page 15).
Make sure the sound will not be blocked or
reflected off of furniture or other objects.
You should have a direct line of sight with
the front of the speaker. To determine the
best position, measure the “listening” dis-
tance between the ideal listening position
(your favorite chair or couch) and the wall
in which you plan to install the speakers.
Try to place the speakers so that they are
equally distant from your listening spot and
at least one half of the listening distance
apart (this maintains a large pleasant stereo
“image”). In home theater applications
where there is a center channel you may
choose to space the left and right main
speakers farther apart for a “bigger than
life” sound with Dolby® encoded movies
and TV shows. However, for combined
music and movie usage stay within the
good placement zone for music. For exam-
ple; if you are ten feet back from the wall,
the speakers should be between five and
ten feet apart (See Figure 2).
Placement for Varying Listening
Positions
If you want the freedom to sit anywhere in
a room facing any direction, and/or find
that you prefer the “all around you” sound
of some car stereos to a conventional
“sound stage” facing you, consider the
speaker placement techniques professional
installers use in restaurants and bars. They
place speakers in an array around the lis-
tening area, so that the music is always sur-
rounding you, regardless of the direction
you face.
The rule of thumb is to add one pair of
speakers for every 100 to 200 square feet
of listening area. Curiously, this is not so
that you can play the music louder, but so
that you can play it softer! When you have
only one pair of speakers in a large room
you will notice that when the sound is per-
fect in one part of the room, it is too loud
near the speakers. By placing more than
one pair in the room you will avoid these
“hot spots” of loud sound and create more
The Boundary Effect
Corners can affect the bass response of the sonic ambiance while maintaining clarity
speaker powerfully! This is called the and rich sound everywhere.
boundary effect. You will emphasize par-
You can make listener position even less
ticular bass frequencies and cancel out
critical by using mono rather than stereo.
other bass frequencies when you place
This can be difficult to achieve with normal
speakers close to the wall/ceiling boundary
stereo amplifiers. However, Niles manu-
or a corner wall boundary. This can make
factures Systems Integration Amplifiers
the speaker sound excessively boomy and
which enable one room to be wired in
inaccurate to some listeners, while to oth-
stereo while other rooms are wired in
ers it just seems like more bass sound. A
mono! Consult your local Niles dealer for
good rule of thumb is if you always listen
more information.
to your current pair of speakers with the
In smaller rooms or rooms that are infre-
bass turned up, you’ll enjoy corner place-
quently used, you typically can’t justify the
ment. If you keep your preamp or receiv-
er’s tone controls at neutral, try to keep the
bracket the room with the two speakers.
speakers at least one or two feet from the
boundaries of the room. The baffle-mount-
to stretch the coverage pattern of two
ed Acoustical Configuration Controls may
be used to help reduce the affect of corner
between direct sound (for detail and clari-
placement (or the room’s own acoustics)
expense of more than two speakers. Try to
Diagonal placement is a very effective way
speakers. You can also compromise
ty) and reflected sound (the ambient or “all
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6
around you” effect). By trying to place the you work your surround sound amplifier
speakers so that they create as much channels harder. If the surround sound sys-
reflected sound as possible, you emphasize tem you are using has a small five or ten
the ambient effect. They can be up high in watt amplifier for the rear speakers, stay
the wall or even down low at power outlet within five to eight feet of the listening loca-
height, in the ceiling, near corners, or tion. If you are using a 25 to 50 watt ampli-
directed at reflective objects and walls. The fier you can mount the speakers 10 to 15
more reflected sound there is in the room feet away from the listening location and
the stronger the ambient effect at low vol- still achieve reasonably high volume levels.
umes. You should use moderation, howev-
Of course, the best way to emulate the
er, otherwise the compromise becomes too
sound of multiple speakers is to use multi-
one sided and at high volumes the sound
ple speakers. In large or unusually shaped
will be blurred and less distinct.
rooms this might be the only way to
achieve a good effect. If you like to listen to
music surround modes which emulate
Applications
Placement for Rear Home Theater
concert hall acoustics, more than two sur-
In a home theater, the goal is to reproduce
round speakers will prove extraordinarily
the experience of a great movie theater in
effective. With Niles AT loudspeakers it is
our homes. The biggest difference between
easy to add another pair without affecting
the two is the rear or surround speaker
the decor of the room. However, you will
array in a commercial theater. Here, it is
need to use a much more powerful ampli-
not uncommon to see twenty or thirty
fier than that which is built into a typical
speakers around the audience. This huge
surround sound receiver or amplifier. Niles
array of speakers assures that you will feel
makes a number of Systems Integration
completely surrounded by the ambient
Amplifiers with proprietary features that
soundtrack of the movie. Film makers try to
make them uniquely suited to enhance a
use the “surround” soundtrack to envelope
good surround sound system. Consult your
you in the environment on screen. They
Niles dealer for more information.
will place background music, rain sounds,
traffic noise, etc. on the “surround” sound-
track. In a home with a single pair of speak-
Installation
ers it is easy for the jungle sounds to sound
like they are “in the middle of your head”
just like headphones!
Fundamentals
A single pair of AT Loudspeakers, properly
placed, can create a very convincing simu-
Running the Speaker Wire in New
Construction
lation of an array of speakers. If you place
If you have doubts about whether you are
them near a hard reflecting surface you can
capable of installing Niles AT Series
make one pair of speakers sound like sev-
speakers in your walls, consult a Niles
eral. Create as many reflections as possible
dealer or professional installer. They have
by mounting the speaker up high in the
special tools, techniques, and experience
wall so that the ceiling will act as a power-
to make the impossible possible. The
ful reflector. If you place the speakers near
installer can provide you with an estimate
a corner, wash the sound down a wall from
before any work is done.
a ceiling location, or mount the speakers as
far away as you can from the listening area,
more reflections will occur. However, all of
these placement techniques require that
the electrical wiring is finished. That way
Scheduling and Preparation
Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after
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7
you can avoid wire routes which could bits and they can create injury. Pay partic-
potentially induce hum over the speaker ular care when using “hole-hogs” and
wire. The basic rules are:
other powerful electric drills; the torque of
the drill when suddenly stopped by a nail
can break the wrist of a strong man.
•
•
•
Never run speaker wire through the
same hole as an electrical cable.
Never run speaker wire into the same
J-box as electrical cable.
Drilling
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires
you plan to run. An auger bit is the pre-
ferred bit for rough-in wiring. It will actual-
ly pull itself through the wood, so that the
drill motor, not you, does most of the work.
You will be drilling a lot of holes, so this is
important.
Avoid running the speaker wire beside
the electrical cable. Keep it at least three
or four feet distant from any electrical
power cable.
Side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in par-
ticular spots in every house, just move the
speaker wire route away as soon as possi-
ble. If construction forces a side by side run
for more than ten feet, install metal conduit
or shielded speaker wire. Low-voltage
wires such as doorbells, intercoms, tele-
phone, security, or television cannot cause
interference or hum on your speaker wires,
so you can safely run all of them at the
same time, through the same holes, side-
by-side.
Always drill the holes in the center of the
stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill
the hole closer than one inch from the
edge of the stud, protect the wire with a
nail plate (See Figure 3).
When drilling holes in ceiling joists, drill in
the center of the joists and try to locate the
hole near the end of the joist. DO NOT
drill through a “gluelam” or any load bear-
ing beam without the direction of your
contractor.
Before you drill any holes, mount the
speaker brackets in the desired speaker
locations and mount p-rings or open
backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume
controls and stereo equipment will be.
Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it
makes pulling the wire much easier. A
good technique is to snap a chalk line
across the face of the studs or against the
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work
backward so that you can always see the
holes you have already drilled. Paying
careful attention to this will save you a lot
of time later on!
Safety First!
Wear gloves, safety goggles and head pro-
tection when drilling. Avoid nails, they ruin
Figure 3
Pulling the Cable
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo
to the volume control, from the volume
control to the speaker). Start with the
longest sections and use left over wire to
complete the short sections. If you plan to
pull many rooms at the same time through
a central route, walk off the distance to
each destination, add a generous fudge
factor for turns and other obstacles, then
cut off each section so that you have a bun-
dle of wires you can pull at once.
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Whenever you run the wire further than retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas
four and one half feet from a hole in a stud of the country the exterior walls are con-
or joist (open attic space, going up walls, structed of solid masonry, and have no hol-
etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs low space for speakers or wires.
using cable clamps or appropriately sized
Start by examining all the possible routes
wire staples. The wire should not have
you might take to run the speaker wire
large sags in it, nor should it be too tight.
from the speaker to the volume control and
Try to protect the wire from being stepped
back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor or
on in attics or other unfinished crawl
other device to locate the internal structure
spaces. There are guard strips, raceways
of the wall. You want to avoid all studs or
and conduits which can be used to protect
joists. A typical route would be: from the
the cable. Consult the local building code
speaker location up the inside of the wall
for special requirements in your area.
to a new hole drilled into the top “plate”
(horizontal two-by-four at the top of the
Concealing Speaker Wire
inside of the wall), into the attic crawl
in Existing Walls
space, then down to the volume control
This is actually a fairly simple task if you
location through another top plate, back
restrict your choice of speaker locations
up to the attic, across the attic, and finally
and wire routes to the interior walls or ceil-
down another plate to the wall behind the
ings of your home. Interior walls in almost
stereo system itself (See Figure 4). The
all North American residences are hollow,
other very common route is through the
so that it is easy to flush mount speakers
bottom plate of the wall into an unfinished
into them and route new speaker cable
basement or crawl space.
around the house. What you see when you
Identify where all of your electrical, phone,
and TV wiring is likely to be and plan to
look at the painted wall board, plaster, or
paneling is only the skin of the wall.
Behind the skin is the skele-
ton; two-by-four wood or
metal “studs” running verti-
cally from the floor to the ceil-
ing in walls and two-by-six or
larger “joists” running hori-
zontally in the ceilings and
floors. In between the studs
and the joists is the space for
the wiring and plumbing of
your home.
Exterior walls are different.
They must insulate the house
from the heat and cold out-
Speaker
Location
Volume
Control
Location
side, so they are stuffed with
insulation. The national build-
ing code requires that the hol-
low wall space in exterior
walls be broken by a horizon-
tal stud placed between the
vertical studs. This “fire block-
ing” makes it very difficult to
Stereo
Location
Figure 4
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9
Unobstructed space
for speaker wiring
Figure 5
route around it all. You can accidentally Sometimes, an under-the-carpet run is pos-
induce 60 Hz hum on your speakers if you sible (there are special flat speaker wires
run your speaker wire right beside electri- made for under-the-rug wire runs). As a last
cal wire for more than a few feet. Try to resort, heating and air conditioning vents
keep speaker wire running parallel to can be used as wire raceways for plenum
power cables at least 3 feet away. To find rated wire (check your local building codes,
exactly where an electrical cable is routed, some municipalities require conduit).
try inspecting the inside of the wall by turn-
ing off the breaker for a particular power
outlet or switch, removing the cover plate
and switch or receptacle, and shining a
penlight into the wall. If you have access to
an attic or basement space you can quick-
ly see which part of the wall space the wire
is free of obstructions (See Figure 5).
Figure 6
When you don’t have access above or
below the wall, try to estimate the existing
wire and pipe locations from the positions
of electrical outlets and plumbed fixtures
on both sides of the wall. Take a look at the
outside of your house too, sometimes con-
duit, vents or drain pipe will be visible that
give useful information. Choose the route
with the fewest potential obstacles.
If your house is built on a slab or you are
wiring between two finished floors, look
for baseboards which could be removed
and replaced with the wire behind them.
Doorjambs can be removed and often
have enough space for speaker wire all the
way around the door (See Figure 6).
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10
Figure 7
In traditional wood stud/drywall construc-
tion you can cut the hole for the speaker
and utilize the large hole to auger holes
across, up or down the wall for as far as
your drill bit will take you. If you have
matching paint and take reasonable care in
patching you can cut a hatch in the drywall
at each stud, run your wire, and patch and
touch-up the wall (See Figure 7).
When you are dealing with the unknown
because of the structure of your home, or
with difficult to patch wall materials like
plaster, lath and plaster, faux finishes, wall-
paper etc., be patient. A careful study of the
potential problems before you start the job
will pay off.
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11
Figure 8
Installation of
Brackets, Frames
and Grilles in
New Construction
Stage One: Before Drywall is Hung
4 Wire Ties
Insulating the Wall Cavity.
If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insula-
tion at this point.
Attach the wings to the bracket by snapping
them into the sides of the bracket. The
wings can be shortened by breaking them
along the scored lines if their length will
interfere with a corner or eaves. You can
mount the bracket horizontally or vertically
(See Figure 8).
Figure 9
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12
Figure 10
Painting the Aluminum Grilles
Screw one side of the assembled bracket
with wings to the stud using one of the sup-
plied screws. Level the bracket. Screw the
other side of the bracket to the stud. Two or
three screws (depending upon the size of
the model) on each side makes for a very
secure installation. Attach the wire to the
bracket at the indicated wire tie points
(See Figure 9).
The grille is important to the sound of the
AT loudspeakers. Do not fill the holes of
the grille with paint. The grille is construct-
ed of aluminum with a perfectly even
powder coat overall. This powder coat is
an ideal primer.
Remove the grilles before painting. If you
are using spray paint, use two thin coats
without any primer. If you are using a com-
pressor and a spray gun, use the finest,
most diffuse setting. Practice first on some
paper if you have no experience painting
with spray paint.
Stage Two: Before Painting
Screw the frame to the installed bracket
using the supplied screws. Do not over-
tighten the screws. This will distort the
frame and the grilles will not fit (this is not
permanent, just loosen the screws and the
grille will pop in) (See Figure 10).
If you are using an applicator or brush, and
a can of paint, thin the paint first. You do
not want to have to poke hundreds of holes
in your beautifully painted grilles.
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13
Figure 11
Installation of
Brackets, Frames
and Grilles in
Existing Walls
Important: Before you cut into any
wall, review the sections on running
wire and speaker placement.
1. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely through
the wallboard or dry wall (1/2” to 5/8”
deep in most homes) about an inch
below the center of your proposed
speaker location (an inch to the side if
you are mounting the speaker horizon-
tally). BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO
DRILL THROUGH EXISTING WIRES,
PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. If you feel any
extra resistance as you are drilling, STOP.
Cut a piece of coat hanger equal to the
width of the bracket. Bend the wire in
half creating a right angle. Poke the “L-
shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn
it in a complete circle. If it turns freely,
repeat the procedure from a hole about
an inch above the center of your pro-
posed speaker location (See Figure 11).
3. If you are cutting painted or wall
papered drywall, use a sheetrock or key-
hole saw. Cut the hole with the saw at a
45 degree angle. That way, the drywall
section can be replaced cleanly if there
is an unseen obstruction behind the
wall. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAW
THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES,
OR STRUCTURE. If you feel any extra
resistance as you are cutting, STOP.
4. If you are cutting into lath and plaster
walls, use masking tape to outline your
penciled marks, drill the four corners
with a 1/4” bit and use a razor to score
the plaster down to the lath beneath.
Then use a chisel to remove all of the
plaster within the taped outline. Finally,
insert a metal cutting blade into a sabre
saw and very slowly and carefully saw
the lath. Sawing the lath can easily
vibrate plaster off the wall. If you have
the patience, use a pair of tin snips to
slowly nip away at the lath instead.
There is no risk with this method, it is
just time consuming.
If the wire's movement is obstructed by a
pipe or cable, fill the hole (s) with spackle
or other patching compound and try
another location.
2. When determining the final location of
the cutout, keep in mind that the frame
and bracket will extend beyond the
cutout. Make sure that you do not place
the edge of the cutout directly next to a
stud. Locate the studs using a stud sensor
or hand-knocking. Once you have deter-
mined the correct position for the cutout,
hold the supplied template up to the wall
surface. Level the template in either the
horizontal or the vertical position and
mark the wall with a pencil. Drill the four
corners with a 1/4” drill bit.
5. Fill the wall cavity with insulation at this
point. Remember to use equal amounts
of insulation for each speaker.
6. Slip the mounting bracket through the hole
and pull it toward you so that its front edge
slides into the hole and stops in place.
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14
7. Attach the frame to the bracket by to compensate for less than ideal room
screwing the frame to the bracket using acoustics, or to suit the listener’s preference.
the supplied screws. Do not overtighten
As an example, a speaker installed within
the screws, this will distort the frame and
one or two feet of a corner or ceiling may
the grilles will not fit (this is not perma-
exhibit excessive bass response caused by
nent, just loosen the screws and the
the boundary effect. Cutting the Bass by 3
grille will pop in). The screws should
dB can minimize the boundary effect and
pull the frame and bracket together
enable the speaker to sound much more
(sandwiching the drywall) so that the
accurate and natural despite it’s proximity
frame is absolutely flush with the wall
to the adjoining wall or ceiling. (For more
surface. There should be no gaps
information on the boundary effect, see
between the wall and the frame (See
The Boundary Effect on page 6.)
Figure 12).
In contrast, a large room with lots of
drapes, upholstered furniture and textured
wall paper may sound dead and lifeless.
Boosting the Treble 3dB or more may sub-
stantially increase the ambience and pres-
ence in an absorbent room.
Installation of the
Speaker and Grille
The key to good sound is experimentation.
Set the controls to the “flat” position to start
with, then adjust until the desired results
are achieved.
in New or Existing
Construction
Setting the Tone Controls
Installing a Niles MS-1 MicroSensor™
There is a 1/2" round molded "IR Sensor
The AT8000 and AT8200 speakers feature
baffle-mounted, 4 position level controls
Knockout" on the face of the speaker baf-
for the Bass, Midrange and Treble frequen-
fle. To prevent damage to the crossover
cies. These tone shaping filters enable each
network, you must remove the knockout
of the frequency bands to be cut or boosted
from the rear of the speaker. Do not
attempt to remove the knockout with the
speaker face up! Lay the speaker face
down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the tip
of a screwdriver into the center of the
round "knockout" and sharply tap the
screwdriver handle as necessary. Install the
MS-1 using its mounting hex nut and
washer so that it is tightly secured to the
speaker. Connect all wires and continue
your installation.
Figure 12
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15
Installing the Speaker
If the grille is already installed, remove it by
using a bent paper clip or the tip of a
corkscrew and pulling it away from the
frame (See Figure 13).
1. Separate the speaker wire so that at least
two inches of each conductor are free.
2. Strip one half inch of insulation from the
end of each conductor of the speaker
wire.
Figure 13
conductor you can only feel, different col-
ors of metal wire on each conductor, or
there might be a fabric strand or string
wound into one of the conductors. Of
course, there are some wires which appear
completely identical. Be careful, or you
might make a mistake.
3. If you have gold pin connectors which
you wish to use, affix them to the
stripped wire ends now.
4. Connect one stripped wire end (or con-
nector) to the black and one to the red
terminal. Pay attention to the markings
on the wire. Each speaker must be con-
nected to the amplifier in the same way.
If you make a mistake, one speaker will be
playing “out-of-phase” with the other
speaker. An out-of-phase pair of speakers
work against each other and the sound of
the two speakers playing together will be
lacking in bass and be “phasey” sounding.
If you suspect the sound is not right and
you cannot see any markings on the wire,
try this simple test:
5. Place the speaker baffle in the frame and
secure it with the supplied #8 x 1/2”
screws. If you find that the baffle does
not smoothly fit the frame, slightly
loosen the mounting screws that hold
the frame to the bracket.
6. Carefully fit the grille into its recess so
that it is barely in place. Starting with one
corner, go around the speaker, pushing
the grille in a little bit each time. You
should be gentle, the aluminum grille
can be easily bent out of shape. The
speaker will have an absolutely flush
appearance when it is fully in place.
1. Stand half way between the two speakers.
2. Play some music with the amplifier or
radio set to Mono.
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the
loudness of the sound.
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the con-
nections on one amplifier channel only.
Speaker Phase
Speaker wire has two conductors. One
conductor is attached to the negative (-)
terminals and one conductor is attached to
the positive (+) terminals of both your
speaker and your amplifier. Usually, the
wire is marked for your convenience.
There are different ways wires are marked:
a stripe on one wire, a ribbed area of one
5. Repeat the listening test with the same
setting of the volume control. When the
sound has a richer bass and is slightly
louder, the speakers are working togeth-
er or “in-phase”.
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16
Operation
Listening at Higher Volumes
It requires more power to achieve a reason-
able volume of sound in a large room than
it does in a small room. It is possible (even
if you are not a teenager) to turn the volume
so high that the amplifier runs out of power.
This creates “clipping” distortion.
Clipping distortion makes treble sound very
harsh and unmusical. When you hear harsh
sounding treble from any good speaker,
turn the volume down immediately! Those
harsh sounds are masking some much
more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound
spikes which will quickly damage any fine
loudspeaker. You are much less likely to
damage a speaker with a large amplifier
because it will be very loud indeed before
it produces any clipping distortion.
Cleaning
You can clean the speaker with a dampened
soft cloth or paper towel. If the speaker is
mounted high up on a wall or ceiling, use a
broom to gently brush it off.
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17
Specifications
Model AT8200
Model AT8000
Driver Compliment
Driver Compliment
WOOFER — 8” Interlaced carbon/glass fiber
cone with an inverted dust cap, butyl rubber
suspension and a custom construction debris
screen
WOOFER — 8” aluminum/urethane cone
with a high temperature aluminum voice coil
former, an inverted dust cap, a butyl rubber
suspension and a custom construction debris
screen
MIDRANGE
—
1-1/2” fluid-cooled tri-
laminate hyperbolic dome with a NDFE 35
neodymium, high magnetic flux motor struc-
ture and distortion canceling balanced drive
MIDRANGE — 1-1/2” fluid-cooled aluminum/
urethane hyperbolic dome with a NDFE 35
neodymium, high magnetic flux motor struc-
ture and distortion canceling balanced drive
TWEETER — 1” fluid-cooled tri-laminate
hyperbolic dome in a zero diffraction swivel-
ing enclosure with a NDFE 35 neodymium,
high magnetic flux motor structure and
distortion canceling balanced drive
TWEETER — 1” fluid-cooled aluminum/
urethane hyperbolic dome with a NDFE 35
neodymium, high magnetic flux motor struc-
ture and distortion canceling balanced drive
Crossover
Crossover
Computer-optimized, Linkwitz-Riley filters
with premium components and 4 increment
(-2dB; Flat; +2dB; +4dB) Bass, Midrange, and
Treble controls
Computer-optimized, Linkwitz-Riley filters
with premium components and 4 increment
(-2dB; Flat; +2dB; +4dB) Bass, Midrange, and
Treble controls
Design Principle
Infinite baffle for large and varying air
volumes
Design Principle
Infinite baffle for large and varying air
volumes
Recommended Amplifier Power
Twenty to Two Hundred watts per channel RMS
Recommended Amplifier Power
Twenty to Two Hundred watts per channel RMS
Nominal Impedance
8 Ohms (4 Ohms minimum)
Nominal Impedance
8 Ohms (4 Ohms minimum)
Frequency Response
30 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB (on axis)
Frequency Response
30 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3dB (on axis)
Sensitivity
Sensitivity
89 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise, mea-
sured at 1 meter on axis
89 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise, mea-
sured at 1 meter on axis
Maximum Sound Pressure Level
112dB
Maximum Sound Pressure Level
114dB
Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions
11” x 18-3/8”
Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions
11” x 18-3/8”
Depth Behind Wall
Depth Behind Wall
3-1/8” (Assumes 1/2” drywall)
3-1/8” (Assumes 1/2” drywall)
Wall Cut-Out Dimensions
Wall Cut-Out Dimensions
9-3/4” x 17-1/4”
9-3/4” x 17-1/4”
Wiring Requirements
Wiring Requirements
We recommend 16 to 18 gauge for up to 80
feet, 14 gauge for up to two hundred feet.
Connectors accommodate 8 to 22 gauge wire.
We recommend 16 to 18 gauge for up to 80
feet, 14 gauge for up to two hundred feet.
Connectors accommodate 8 to 22 gauge wire.
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18
Limited Warranty
Niles Audio Corporation ("NILES") warrants its loudspeaker products to the original purchaser
to be free of manufacturing defects in material and workmanship for a period of two years from
date of purchase.
This Warranty is subject to the following additional conditions and limitations. The Warranty is
void and inapplicable if NILES deems that the product has been used or handled other than in
accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer, including but not limited to
damage caused by accident, mishandling, improper installation, abuse, negligence, or normal
wear and tear, or any defect caused by repair to the product by anyone other than NILES or an
authorized NILES dealer.
To obtain warranty service, take the unit to the nearest authorized NILES dealer, who will test
the product and if necessary, forward it to NILES for service. If there are no authorized NILES
dealers in your area, you must write to NILES and include your name, address, model and
serial number of your unit, along with a brief description of the problem. A factory Return
Authorization Number will be sent to you. DO NOT RETURN ANY UNIT WITHOUT FIRST
RECEIVING WRITTEN AUTHORIZATION AND SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS FROM NILES.
If the above conditions are met, the purchaser's sole remedy shall be to return the product to
NILES, in which case NILES will repair or replace, at its sole option, the defective product with-
out charge for parts or labor. NILES will return a unit repaired or replaced under warranty by
shipping same by its usual shipping method from the factory (only) at its expense within the
United States of America. THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT
LIMITATION, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FIT-
NESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WITH RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT.
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE
REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER/PURCHASER. NILES SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY
INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES EXCEPT TO THE EXTENT PROVIDED (OR
PROHIBITED) BY APPLICABLE LAW.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages,
so the above limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
For the name of your nearest authorized NILES dealer contact:
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION
P.O. BOX 160818, Miami, Florida 33116-0818.
Please fill in your product information and retain for your records.
Model____________________________________________________________________________________
Serial No._________________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date_____________________________________________________________________________
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21
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD
Model Purchased__________________________________________________________________________________
Serial Number___________________________________________________________________________________
Date Purchased (month/day/year)_________________________________________________________________
Dealer Name and Location________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
❑ Dr.
❑ Miss
❑ Mr.
❑ Mrs.
❑ Ms.
Name____________________________________________________________________________________________
Address_________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
City_________________________________________________________State______________Zip______________
Telephone (___________)___________________________________________________________________________
Please take a moment to fill out our warranty registration card. The information helps us to
get to know you better and develop the products you want
❏
Age:
Musical tastes:
What magazines do
you read?
Warranty
Do you . . . ?
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Under 25
25-34
35-44
45-54
55 & over
(Please check all that
apply)
❏
Own a House. If yes,
1. _____________________
2. ___________________
3. ___________________
how many square feet?
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Alternative
Classical
Country
Jazz
New Age
Popular
R&B
Rock
Other______________
__________________
❏
Own a Town House/
Condominium/Co-op
Rent an Apartment
Rent a House
Income:
❏
❏
Who will install the
product?
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Under $24,999
$25,000-$34,999
$35,000-$44,999
$45,000-$59,999
$60,000-$74,999
$75,000-$99,999
Over $99,999
❏
❏
❏
❏
Custom Installer
Electrician
Friend
Are you interested in
receiving literature on
other Niles products?
Myself
How did you hear
about Niles?
❏
❏
Yes
No
Which factor(s) influ-
enced the purchase
of your Niles prod-
uct?
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Architect/Developer
Custom Installer
Direct Mail
Are there products/
capabilities that you
would like to see
introduced?
Occupation:
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Arts/Entertainment
Business Owner
Engineer
Finance/Accounting
General Office
Management
Professional
Sales/Marketing
Student
Tradesperson
Friend/Family
(Please check all that
apply)
In-Store Display
Interior Designer
Magazine Ad
Mail-Order Catalog
Newspaper Ad
Product Brochure
Product Review
Retail Salesperson
____________________
____________________
____________________
____________________
____________________
____________________
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Ease of Use
Price/Value
Product Features
Quality/Durability
Reputation
Style/Appearance
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PLEASE FILL OUT THE
WARRANTY REGISTRATION
CARD ON THE REVERSE
SIDE, DETACH, AND MAIL
TO:
Niles Audio Corporation
Warranty Registration Dept.
P.O. Box 160818
Miami, Florida 33116-0818
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Niles Audio
Corporation
12331 S.W. 130 Street
Miami, Florida 33186
Tel: (305) 238-4373
Fax: (305) 238-0185
© 1998 Niles Audio Corporation DS00220A
Printed in Taiwan
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